I work for one of the largest millwork shops in the northeast....this is probably one of the best tutorial videos on spraying waterborne finishes I have seen. Good job.
After watching this video I felt confident enough to dive in, I just completed turning my workshop into a spray booth, did my first 6 boards and they turned out perfect! Thanks for taking the time to make the video!! It was a mild form of torture to put the poly on with a brush, took forever and always had flaws, my first boards with HVLP are perfect, hooray!!
Thanks for the realistic demo. I am glad to see that I don't have to worry so much about cleaning the sprayer between each coat. I'm going to order the Rockler HVLP and the Enduro poly. Thanks again. I learn a lot from your videos.
Thank you so much for helping me ... many attempts I had and all of them failed ... with many bubbles and once there was varnish puddles and now came out perfec❤
Thanks Anthony...nice clear & concise instructional vid... no fluff or unnecessary "padding"... 🙄😂 I've started using water-based poly recently, the satin finish and "water-clear" non-yellowing finish is so much more contemporary looking than traditional gloss... 🤗 😎👍☘️🍺
First time viewer. What a nice tutorial. I’m in the process of replacing painted trim with stained oak and was being lead away from water base finish. You and your technique pushed me back at water based poly. 👍🏼
Update; I sprayed a total of 6 gallons of water based poly on a significant amount of cabinetry components. Turned out fantastic and very durable. Thanks for the tips!
Thank you! I'm finishing my table top I just gel stained and bought a spray polyurethane and wasn't sure if needed to sand in between coats. You're tip on the wrist movement is great! I'm going to really pay attention and be a better painter. Subscribed, liked and will continue to learn from you. God bless! 🥰
Also great tip on the 400 grit. 220 is far more aggressive than you need for between coats of poly, you're just looking to make micro, micro abrasions for the next coat to bond to, and 400 is more than enough. Some folks even use 600. There are folks that get fine results with 220 but there's absolutely no need to go that far and you risk leaving marks. Great video!
Okay Anthony The paper bag trick oh my God I am never going to buy any more fine sandpaper i. I wish there was a way of putting my desktop up to RUclips for you to feel God that sounds bad. lol it is so smooth yep worked like a charm. Thank you my friend I'm definitely going to be watching some more of your stuff
Excellent video man I looked into your HVLP system and while it seems outstanding, not sure I’m ready to drop $4-500 on my first gun. Is there an airless/electric HVLP you would recommend for a beginner?
That finish is almost as good looking as Anthony is . I have never used water base .Think I will give it a try . Nice thing with water based is you can use heat in the shop and not have to worry about me coming to film the explosion .lol
Hi there, great video and cristal clear explanations. Just to know, you say that you spray progressively thicker layers, do you do this by doing a slower pass or by increasing the airflow or something.
Thanks for the great videos you've made! I am currently setting up an area for spraying and would appreciate if you had any advice on a spray booth. I dont work in a garage and need to control any overspray. Thank you
Edward Crumpton set up plastic painters drop cloths, cover tools with painters tarps and use builders paper for covering floors. Set a fan in front of an open window or door to blow out excess overspray and fumes.
Thank you for spending the time; great tips. And I agree about leaving the product in the gun (but not with all guns). I clean the tip with a baby wipe, and cover the nozzle area with Glad Press-n-Seal. I'm surprised that you get a great finish when not holding the gun completely perpendicular to the surface. I might have to play around with that. Are you using an Earlex sprayer? If so, what model? I have the 5500, but it only has one adjustment know, which I don't like. I spray alot of poly on furniture that is painted with chalk type paint. Should I go light on my first coat as well? The paint is very porous, so figured I should go heavier for that application? Sorry about all of the questions...this is the Mrs; and you know how chatty we can be. Lol!
Douglas thompson hi, I’m using the earlex sprayport 6000. With the gun being suction fed from the pot to a pickup tube instead of a gravity fed gun, if you hold this one completely flat to the surface, it tends to spit and when the finish runs low in the pot, it doesn’t syphon well. I’ve gotten much better finishes at the angle you see in the video.
Fantastic Tutorial, Anthony! Thank you :) I love how you explain not only the process (HOW), but also your experience and reasons for doing it a particular way (WHY). Makes it super easy to understand and to get out there and try it for ourselves! #ROCKSTAR!
Thank you for such a great instructional video. Best one I’ve found and I’ve watched a LOT! I prefer to use oil based poly. Will take longer to dry - can I still leave the poly in the system in between coats? Anything else / tips that would be different when using oil based poly? Thank you so much!
Yes, you can still leave it in the gun. It’s just longer dry time between coats and the clean up is different because you need lacquer thinner instead of soapy water.
Hey Anthony, your channel is highly underrated! I recently got the Earlax. I’m going to finish my office with some built ins and wall panels to give it a classic look. I want to stain the material to dark brown first. Is it possible to apply this poly over the stain? Do you recommend that on 1/4 oak vaneer ply? Thanks
I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel! Yes you can apply any waterborne finish over a stain even if the stain is oil based, that is what I did here and have been doing for years now that I switched to waterborne finishes.
This is a turbine unit. There is no air compressor. It uses a fan to constantly move air through the system at a high volume with a low pressure at the gun, that’s how it gets its’ name HVLP sprayer.
Joel P the system I’m using in the video (earlex sprayport 6000)is an hvlp that uses a small turbine to transfer the air, no compressor and takes up almost no room in the shop. If you’re looking to use paint, then I use a graco magnum x5
Anthony Scolaro Here when you say “paint” (with a Graco), do you mean as opposed to varnish (poly, etc), like white paint for example? Do you mean you don’t recommend HVLP for paint? Or by paint do you refer to wall paint? (excuse my ignorance if it is obvious, perhaps it is just a matter of “lost in translation” (I’m Spanish) ;-).
Great video! You mentioned a lot of tricks I've used myself. GF makes great products! I've recently swapped from their pre-cat lacquer to the poly for durability. Question: which hvlp system are you using?
Great video im currently doin my restroom cabinets the clear coat was peeling off. I have a question does steam from taking showers damage the ploy through out time? Thanks
Dieselfumes1982 a good industrial grade polyurethane will not be damaged by steam from showers throughout the day. Just time and use of touching and scratching the cabinets will make it fade and peel through the years.
Anthony, this is a great, great video. Thank you - it's very helpful. Question: when you have to finish both sides of a board, do you find it's best to finish one side before moving to the other? Or do you do one coat and sand all the way around before moving to coat two? Seems like that would take longer, but I don't know if there's a reason why that might be better? Thanks for your time!
Tim Hyde I spray the bottom of the piece first, then flip it over on points and finish the top side. When it dries, I sand both sides and repeat the process. Doing one side at a time would take double the amount of time and kill production.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Can I use my Graco airless to apply this particular coating with any particular FFLP tip orifice? Apparently I can't use it to apply the Minwax poly I just purchased. It's only brushable. Thanks
Tribulation Prepper this particular finish is made specifically to be sprayed, however I would not use an airless sprayer because clear coats lay down much better with a low pressure and high volume of air. The airless is really more for paint. I always use HVLP sprayers for polyurethane and lacquers. The airless can be used but the tips and internal parts wear out quicker. Also, you should never use the same spray unit to spray clear finishes that was also used to spray paints. You will always get a paint particle or particles in the clear finish, no matter how well you clean the unit.
Absolutely. Just make sure your finish is leveled and sanded before you spray that final coat, otherwise if you spray it will amplify any brush strokes or imperfections and may cause an orange peel effect.
I recently bought an hvlp system but have yet to use it. What’s not clear to me is the overspray issue and the fumes. I’ve got a car and a half shop, and I’m not sure I have the space. What’s your experience? Any response would be greatly appreciated!
Stoph Stoph I always wear a proper chemical and fume respirator, I vent a box fan out an open window or open garage door to pull out the fumes and overspray, I always work with waterborne finishes and paints which reduces really harmful fumes. Set up plastic drop cloths to cover walls floors and tools.
I skip the sand paper all together. I use 4-0 steel wool, and very light pressure to just dull the finish and take off any possible nibs. Just my way, hope this helps.
When you are spraying both sides do you do three layers on one side then repeat on the other side? What do you do with the open grain? Is that sprayed too? Thanks for the helpful video!
Terrific video that covers everything I’m about to do spraying polyurethane. One question, would you do anything differently if your piece were a restaurant tabletop?
TheChicagoKid773 it depends on what kind of table it is and what type of restaurant, depending on the use of the table, say it stays uncovered and it gets used like a bar/restaurant table, I might do an epoxy/resin finish. Regular restaurant style table, I’d stay with this finish.
roadstar499 yes, it’s a professional grade poly. Builds just like oil. The link is in the description. I’ve been using this for a long time and the finish holds up.
I’m watching this vid because I was just quoted over $6000 to have some doors and wood panelling sprayed....fuck that, I thought, I’ll do it myself! Good tips btw!
Hi Anthony, I’m making big bass marimba bars (percussion instrument that will be struck thousands of times with a medium hard mallet and will vibrate like crazy over and over and over). Traditionally they finished with oils and waxs, though I want to experiment with other stuff. For my experiment phase-in order of best to worst-can you please suggest/brainstorm what you think might work out for coating/sealing wooden bars that will be taking a lot of inherent abuse? With all the beating and vibrating, for instance, might shellac or lacquer or polyurethane or wood hardener or an acrylic poor be too brittle, resulting in getting rattled and crushed to death and breaking apart microscopically over time? Also consider which finish would be the most scratch resistant. (Bars will be stored in stacks and slid against each other with the potential of dirt and sand bits in between. Thanks for brainstorming with me 👍🏻 Sam
You say to leave the gun alone. My question is: Do you leave it for all coats? In other words, if I do the project from start to finish in a few hours, do I need to empty and clean my gun or will the product not set up and allow me to continue with one batch?
S Thrasher I leave it in the gun for all the coats. With waterborne or lacquers, you can usually get all 3 coats done on about 3-4 hours if you have the temperature around 65-70 degrees. Then after you’re completely done spraying, empty the gun and completely disassemble and clean it.
I used a water base poly about 25 years ago, I don’t remember the brand, but it was a well known brand, I’m sure. It did not hold up well in areas where you may splash water on it, such as kitchens or baths. Is the brand you use any better in this environment?
Anthony Scolaro thanks for your reply, but I read a review of the product on Amazon that supported my doubts. That indicated that it did not hold up well in areas that my get harsh cleaning agents or even common cooking products spilled about.
I don’t do reclaimed furniture, so I’m not an expert on the matter but most people use an oil base for a deep rich tone and if the furniture is old, it would have already had an oil base finish previously.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks for your response. So the furniture I make is out of reclaimed old barn wood I salvage. So not of it has ever been stained, oiled, cured etc. That's why I was curious about spraying poly on my pieces I make.
@@lazio7495 I would first check it’s moisture content, treat it with a solution to kill any insects and then when that’s cured out, you can use any type of finish you want. Oil finishes do preserve the richest look of the original reclaimed lumber, but water base has come a long way and the clean up is easier. Plus less toxic.
roadstar499 general finishes brand. They don’t make it in aerosol cans. It’s a ready to spray formula for spray guns . I wait 45 minutes to an hour between coats at 65-70 degrees.
I may be buying this product ... will it work with a small nozzle sprayer...i have one from harbor freight i use for small auto touchups etc... also can you leave this poly in gun between coats or do you clean gun each coat? thanks
roadstar499 I leave it in the gun between coats, about 45 minutes between coats, yes it will spray through smaller tips, I use it through a 1.3-2.0mm tip on my HVLP. If you are going to buy it, I have a link to it in the description on my amazon.
Whenever I spray clear finishes with hvlp, no matter what gun I’m using, I always go with a 1.3mm tip and needle. That is what’s recommended and gives me the best results. It’s no coincidence that the 1.3 comes with the gun. I’ve switched to a Fuji unit now after 5 years with the Earlex, and it also has a 1.3mm that lays down a flawless finish.
Tha is for the info. This video was very helpful. I sprayed some trim yesterday following your method. Same product, Fuji semi-pro 2 sprayer. Overall I’m happy with the result, but I noticed while the finish is smooth it’s not glass-like. It has some very small (almost unnoticeable) ripples. Any idea what I did wrong? Thanks I’m advance.
@@johncarbon6289 there’s a lot of factors that could cause problems and since I can’t see or feel the finish you applied, it’s hard for me to tell. You could have moved to slow or too fast, applied too much finish or not enough. Did you sand the material evenly. That could cause the finish to soak into different areas differently as well. Did you get orange peel? That’s why it’s always best to practice on a scrap of the wood your working with, helps get the right adjustment of the gun settings.
Ya I figured it who’d be hard to figure out through text. I had a finish guy for all of my projects who finished everything with a perfect finish. This video actually inspired me to start doing them on my own. I’ll keep practicing as this was my first time trying. Thanks for the reply. 👍🏻
Your technique would be better if you maintained a 90 degree angle between your spray gun nozzle and your project...perfectly perpendicular. Also maintain distance between nozzle and work project. If you did wet out the first coat, maybe you wouldn't have to de-nib after . I spray cars for a living so there are some crossover principles.
Mark Anthony two very different things my friend, and if you’ve ever seen my work and finishes in person, like my clients have experienced, for so many years, you wouldn’t be commenting about my technique. But thanks for watching
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Yeah...maybe your right...I guess as a automotive painter I'm not used to sanding sprayed finishes ...that's a sign in my trade that you don't know what you're doing...but from your video I certainly agree that as much as I can see it looks pretty nice!
That was the earlex sprayport. I believe I linked it in the description. Now I use a fuji semi pro 2 system. Only because after 7 years of hard use, the Earlex finally died. Otherwise it was a good unit.
Dear Sensei, As usual: a clear, concise, detailed explanation using ordinary language! Thank you!
William, Anthony is your marshal arts instructor?
🤣
I work for one of the largest millwork shops in the northeast....this is probably one of the best tutorial videos on spraying waterborne finishes I have seen. Good job.
After watching this video I felt confident enough to dive in, I just completed turning my workshop into a spray booth, did my first 6 boards and they turned out perfect! Thanks for taking the time to make the video!! It was a mild form of torture to put the poly on with a brush, took forever and always had flaws, my first boards with HVLP are perfect, hooray!!
Thanks for the realistic demo. I am glad to see that I don't have to worry so much about cleaning the sprayer between each coat. I'm going to order the Rockler HVLP and the Enduro poly. Thanks again. I learn a lot from your videos.
You are awesome! Thank you. I was able to fix my first spray finish that I messed up by following your advice!
Thank you so much for helping me ... many attempts I had and all of them failed ... with many bubbles and once there was varnish puddles and now came out perfec❤
Great spray techinque tips. Thanks Anthony for your videos
Just professional. Simple and to the point. Loved your walk-through-steps video and explanation. Just great video!
You just gave me the confidence to do this on a coffee table I just finished building. Thank you!
Thanks Anthony...nice clear & concise instructional vid... no fluff or unnecessary "padding"... 🙄😂
I've started using water-based poly recently, the satin finish and "water-clear" non-yellowing finish is so much more contemporary looking than traditional gloss... 🤗
😎👍☘️🍺
On your advice i went to Amazon bought some GF finish you showed and dug out my spray gun from the 80’s. Worked perfect. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video! So many questions that I had just got answered. Keep them coming my dude.
Love your videos - straight to the point and practical. Great teacher
Great video.Thank you for posting
Anthony, this is so helpful! Clear, detailed, thorough! Thanks so much. Grateful new subscriber here. Cheers!
Perfect directions. Awesome video to learn from. Thank you
First time viewer. What a nice tutorial. I’m in the process of replacing painted trim with stained oak and was being lead away from water base finish. You and your technique pushed me back at water based poly. 👍🏼
your a good teacher bro
Straight forward, thanks.
Very informative. Thank you
Straight to the point, beautiful work, Great video. Cheers!
I really enjoyed this video and th detail you went into regarding small details. Thanks!
Update; I sprayed a total of 6 gallons of water based poly on a significant amount of cabinetry components. Turned out fantastic and very durable. Thanks for the tips!
Thank you! I'm finishing my table top I just gel stained and bought a spray polyurethane and wasn't sure if needed to sand in between coats. You're tip on the wrist movement is great! I'm going to really pay attention and be a better painter. Subscribed, liked and will continue to learn from you. God bless! 🥰
Karen Hall glad to hear that I was helpful
Incredible video, thank you so much!!
Informativer and clear. Thank you
Excellent video!!
Thank you so much. Nicely done!
Great video!Thanks for your wisdom!
Hey thanks for posting that.
Excellent video! Very well explained!
You helped me. Thanks.
Good work mate!
very helpful,thanks
That wrist action is good advice
Great video
Amazing finish man!
Thank you
Very good.
Also great tip on the 400 grit. 220 is far more aggressive than you need for between coats of poly, you're just looking to make micro, micro abrasions for the next coat to bond to, and 400 is more than enough. Some folks even use 600. There are folks that get fine results with 220 but there's absolutely no need to go that far and you risk leaving marks. Great video!
Great idea to cover the spray tip with masking tape between coats.
sick video man
I’d like to see a Visio spraying big areas like a home .wgit a lot of windows and doors .
Okay Anthony The paper bag trick oh my God I am never going to buy any more fine sandpaper i. I wish there was a way of putting my desktop up to RUclips for you to feel God that sounds bad. lol it is so smooth yep worked like a charm. Thank you my friend I'm definitely going to be watching some more of your stuff
Super helpful! I'm going to spray all of my new interior doors. Have you done any similar spraying stain videos?
You're good.
Well done. Would like more info on HVLP Projector sizes and uses.
Thank you for the video. What size needle did you use and do you thin the poly?
Hi... I like your idea that you are showing.... But what about a metal sheet ie. a car or a fridge, do I have to sand paper before every coat?
Thanks.
Excellent video man I looked into your HVLP system and while it seems outstanding, not sure I’m ready to drop $4-500 on my first gun. Is there an airless/electric HVLP you would recommend for a beginner?
That finish is almost as good looking as Anthony is . I have never used water base .Think I will give it a try . Nice thing with water based is you can use heat in the shop and not have to worry about me coming to film the explosion .lol
Hi there, great video and cristal clear explanations.
Just to know, you say that you spray progressively thicker layers, do you do this by doing a slower pass or by increasing the airflow or something.
Ernesto Alonso I increase the amount of material slightly (very slightly)that flows out of the gun
The paint is not sucked up the tube, it's pushed up, the canister is pressurized.
I've got to get one of those guns. Foam brushes aren't cutting it anymore. Too many bubbles.
Thanks for the great videos you've made! I am currently setting up an area for spraying and would appreciate if you had any advice on a spray booth. I dont work in a garage and need to control any overspray. Thank you
Edward Crumpton set up plastic painters drop cloths, cover tools with painters tarps and use builders paper for covering floors. Set a fan in front of an open window or door to blow out excess overspray and fumes.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks for the tips!
Thank you for spending the time; great tips. And I agree about leaving the product in the gun (but not with all guns). I clean the tip with a baby wipe, and cover the nozzle area with Glad Press-n-Seal. I'm surprised that you get a great finish when not holding the gun completely perpendicular to the surface. I might have to play around with that. Are you using an Earlex sprayer? If so, what model? I have the 5500, but it only has one adjustment know, which I don't like. I spray alot of poly on furniture that is painted with chalk type paint. Should I go light on my first coat as well? The paint is very porous, so figured I should go heavier for that application? Sorry about all of the questions...this is the Mrs; and you know how chatty we can be. Lol!
Douglas thompson hi, I’m using the earlex sprayport 6000. With the gun being suction fed from the pot to a pickup tube instead of a gravity fed gun, if you hold this one completely flat to the surface, it tends to spit and when the finish runs low in the pot, it doesn’t syphon well. I’ve gotten much better finishes at the angle you see in the video.
Fantastic Tutorial, Anthony! Thank you :) I love how you explain not only the process (HOW), but also your experience and reasons for doing it a particular way (WHY).
Makes it super easy to understand and to get out there and try it for ourselves!
#ROCKSTAR!
Glad to hear this helped! I try my best to go into as much detail as time permits.
I wish to know what brand of gun do you use!
Thank you for such a great instructional video. Best one I’ve found and I’ve watched a LOT! I prefer to use oil based poly. Will take longer to dry - can I still leave the poly in the system in between coats? Anything else / tips that would be different when using oil based poly? Thank you so much!
Yes, you can still leave it in the gun. It’s just longer dry time between coats and the clean up is different because you need lacquer thinner instead of soapy water.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you so very, very much!!!
Please tell me my I want to make a guitar but I don't know how can I get good shine like any good guitar
Hey Anthony, your channel is highly underrated! I recently got the Earlax. I’m going to finish my office with some built ins and wall panels to give it a classic look. I want to stain the material to dark brown first. Is it possible to apply this poly over the stain? Do you recommend that on 1/4 oak vaneer ply? Thanks
I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel! Yes you can apply any waterborne finish over a stain even if the stain is oil based, that is what I did here and have been doing for years now that I switched to waterborne finishes.
One of the best points you made is the temptation is to NOT spray heavy on the first coat.
great video, i'm undecided. which is a better product for kitchen cabinets, gf high performance or gf enduro clear poly?
High performance is good and less expensive but the enduro poly is industrial, so it holds up much better
Great video! What kind of air compressor you are using? What is the pressure (psi) you used for the spraying?
Thanks
This is a turbine unit. There is no air compressor. It uses a fan to constantly move air through the system at a high volume with a low pressure at the gun, that’s how it gets its’ name HVLP sprayer.
Hey what tip size do you use with that finish?
Another great video! Do you have a recommendation for a spray painting system that doesn't require owning an air compressor? Thanks
Joel P the system I’m using in the video (earlex sprayport 6000)is an hvlp that uses a small turbine to transfer the air, no compressor and takes up almost no room in the shop. If you’re looking to use paint, then I use a graco magnum x5
Anthony Scolaro Here when you say “paint” (with a Graco), do you mean as opposed to varnish (poly, etc), like white paint for example?
Do you mean you don’t recommend HVLP for paint? Or by paint do you refer to wall paint?
(excuse my ignorance if it is obvious, perhaps it is just a matter of “lost in translation” (I’m Spanish) ;-).
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks!
Ernesto Alonso I use a graco paint sprayer unit now for all paints. I use the hvlp unit as seen in this video only for polyurethane and varnishes
Great video! You mentioned a lot of tricks I've used myself. GF makes great products! I've recently swapped from their pre-cat lacquer to the poly for durability.
Question: which hvlp system are you using?
That was an Earlex sprayport system but the last few years I’ve switched to Fuji
Great video im currently doin my restroom cabinets the clear coat was peeling off. I have a question does steam from taking showers damage the ploy through out time? Thanks
Dieselfumes1982 a good industrial grade polyurethane will not be damaged by steam from showers throughout the day. Just time and use of touching and scratching the cabinets will make it fade and peel through the years.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you....you gained another subscriber looking foward for learning more from you.
Dieselfumes1982 welcome aboard!
Anthony, this is a great, great video. Thank you - it's very helpful. Question: when you have to finish both sides of a board, do you find it's best to finish one side before moving to the other? Or do you do one coat and sand all the way around before moving to coat two? Seems like that would take longer, but I don't know if there's a reason why that might be better? Thanks for your time!
Tim Hyde I spray the bottom of the piece first, then flip it over on points and finish the top side. When it dries, I sand both sides and repeat the process. Doing one side at a time would take double the amount of time and kill production.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Can I use my Graco airless to apply this particular coating with any particular FFLP tip orifice? Apparently I can't use it to apply the Minwax poly I just purchased. It's only brushable. Thanks
Tribulation Prepper this particular finish is made specifically to be sprayed, however I would not use an airless sprayer because clear coats lay down much better with a low pressure and high volume of air. The airless is really more for paint. I always use HVLP sprayers for polyurethane and lacquers. The airless can be used but the tips and internal parts wear out quicker. Also, you should never use the same spray unit to spray clear finishes that was also used to spray paints. You will always get a paint particle or particles in the clear finish, no matter how well you clean the unit.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Good advice. Thank you for your response, your time and expertise.
I wanted to know that if I rushed on my first three coats of polyurethane can I use spray polyurethane for the final coat?
Absolutely. Just make sure your finish is leveled and sanded before you spray that final coat, otherwise if you spray it will amplify any brush strokes or imperfections and may cause an orange peel effect.
Thanks Tone....you from Brooklyn or wuut?
I recently bought an hvlp system but have yet to use it. What’s not clear to me is the overspray issue and the fumes. I’ve got a car and a half shop, and I’m not sure I have the space. What’s your experience? Any response would be greatly appreciated!
Stoph Stoph I always wear a proper chemical and fume respirator, I vent a box fan out an open window or open garage door to pull out the fumes and overspray, I always work with waterborne finishes and paints which reduces really harmful fumes. Set up plastic drop cloths to cover walls floors and tools.
Do you need to open up the gun to stir the poly for each coat, assuming that it’s not gloss and there is a flatting agent in it?
M D nope, I just give it a little swirl around in a circular motion to get it moving and mix the agents around again.
Thanks!
I skip the sand paper all together. I use 4-0 steel wool, and very light pressure to just dull the finish and take off any possible nibs. Just my way, hope this helps.
Water borne finish causes rust problems with steel wool, no matter how careful you clean, especially high tanin woods like oak
When you are spraying both sides do you do three layers on one side then repeat on the other side? What do you do with the open grain? Is that sprayed too? Thanks for the helpful video!
Terrific video that covers everything I’m about to do spraying polyurethane. One question, would you do anything differently if your piece were a restaurant tabletop?
TheChicagoKid773 it depends on what kind of table it is and what type of restaurant, depending on the use of the table, say it stays uncovered and it gets used like a bar/restaurant table, I might do an epoxy/resin finish. Regular restaurant style table, I’d stay with this finish.
so can you get as thick of a poly coating using water based as oil based after applying 3 coats?? thanks
roadstar499 yes, it’s a professional grade poly. Builds just like oil. The link is in the description. I’ve been using this for a long time and the finish holds up.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thanks for the heads up...
I’m watching this vid because I was just quoted over $6000 to have some doors and wood panelling sprayed....fuck that, I thought, I’ll do it myself! Good tips btw!
Hi Anthony,
I’m making big bass marimba bars (percussion instrument that will be struck thousands of times with a medium hard mallet and will vibrate like crazy over and over and over). Traditionally they finished with oils and waxs, though I want to experiment with other stuff. For my experiment phase-in order of best to worst-can you please suggest/brainstorm what you think might work out for coating/sealing wooden bars that will be taking a lot of inherent abuse? With all the beating and vibrating, for instance, might shellac or lacquer or polyurethane or wood hardener or an acrylic poor be too brittle, resulting in getting rattled and crushed to death and breaking apart microscopically over time? Also consider which finish would be the most scratch resistant. (Bars will be stored in stacks and slid against each other with the potential of dirt and sand bits in between. Thanks for brainstorming with me 👍🏻
Sam
I would try waterlox. It’s a penetrating finish that goes deep into the wood and hardens throughout while sealing as a finish.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Cool. I'll give it a try. Thanks for getting back. I appreciate it 😁
😯👍👍👍👌
👀
As you are painting the board do you just incorporate the edges or do that prior to doing the board?
I spray the back face of the board first, then flip it over with the good face up and spray the edges first, then spray the good face last.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks, I'm really glad I looked you up! Great info!
You say to leave the gun alone. My question is: Do you leave it for all coats? In other words, if I do the project from start to finish in a few hours, do I need to empty and clean my gun or will the product not set up and allow me to continue with one batch?
S Thrasher I leave it in the gun for all the coats. With waterborne or lacquers, you can usually get all 3 coats done on about 3-4 hours if you have the temperature around 65-70 degrees. Then after you’re completely done spraying, empty the gun and completely disassemble and clean it.
I used a water base poly about 25 years ago, I don’t remember the brand, but it was a well known brand, I’m sure. It did not hold up well in areas where you may splash water on it, such as kitchens or baths. Is the brand you use any better in this environment?
Lori Black yes, it’s industrial grade. Not off the shelf stuff.
Anthony Scolaro thanks for your reply, but I read a review of the product on Amazon that supported my doubts. That indicated that it did not hold up well in areas that my get harsh cleaning agents or even common cooking products spilled about.
What type of poly would you recommend for reclaimed wood furniture?
I don’t do reclaimed furniture, so I’m not an expert on the matter but most people use an oil base for a deep rich tone and if the furniture is old, it would have already had an oil base finish previously.
@@AnthonyScolaro1
Thanks for your response.
So the furniture I make is out of reclaimed old barn wood I salvage. So not of it has ever been stained, oiled, cured etc.
That's why I was curious about spraying poly on my pieces I make.
@@lazio7495 I would first check it’s moisture content, treat it with a solution to kill any insects and then when that’s cured out, you can use any type of finish you want. Oil finishes do preserve the richest look of the original reclaimed lumber, but water base has come a long way and the clean up is easier. Plus less toxic.
Does this work on hardwood floors?
No, you need a specific polyurethane for floors, mostly oil based.
I have never sprayed any poly, what size tip is that on the gun?
MANUELMANNY509 1.3mm
Anthony Scolaro Thank you, and keep up the good job and videos👍
Hi, what brand was that poly? can you buy that in a spray can? so did you wait an hour between coats? Thanks
roadstar499 general finishes brand. They don’t make it in aerosol cans. It’s a ready to spray formula for spray guns . I wait 45 minutes to an hour between coats at 65-70 degrees.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 sounds good thanks ...
I may be buying this product ... will it work with a small nozzle sprayer...i have one from harbor freight i use for small auto touchups etc... also can you leave this poly in gun between coats or do you clean gun each coat? thanks
roadstar499 I leave it in the gun between coats, about 45 minutes between coats, yes it will spray through smaller tips, I use it through a 1.3-2.0mm tip on my HVLP. If you are going to buy it, I have a link to it in the description on my amazon.
What needle size are you using?
Gilles Renaud 1.3mm
Gilles, he is not drug user 😎
@@Glen.Danielsenhahahahahahaha maybe he should have said Nozzles or tip lol
First from Saudi Arabia 👋 😎
Greetings from the U.S., brother! Islam is welcome, prosperous, and beautiful here.
Al-salamü ‘alayküm 💛 🕌 🕋 🙏🏽
What size tip are you using on your gun?
Whenever I spray clear finishes with hvlp, no matter what gun I’m using, I always go with a 1.3mm tip and needle. That is what’s recommended and gives me the best results. It’s no coincidence that the 1.3 comes with the gun. I’ve switched to a Fuji unit now after 5 years with the Earlex, and it also has a 1.3mm that lays down a flawless finish.
Tha is for the info. This video was very helpful. I sprayed some trim yesterday following your method. Same product, Fuji semi-pro 2 sprayer. Overall I’m happy with the result, but I noticed while the finish is smooth it’s not glass-like. It has some very small (almost unnoticeable) ripples. Any idea what I did wrong? Thanks I’m advance.
@@johncarbon6289 there’s a lot of factors that could cause problems and since I can’t see or feel the finish you applied, it’s hard for me to tell. You could have moved to slow or too fast, applied too much finish or not enough. Did you sand the material evenly. That could cause the finish to soak into different areas differently as well. Did you get orange peel? That’s why it’s always best to practice on a scrap of the wood your working with, helps get the right adjustment of the gun settings.
Ya I figured it who’d be hard to figure out through text. I had a finish guy for all of my projects who finished everything with a perfect finish. This video actually inspired me to start doing them on my own. I’ll keep practicing as this was my first time trying. Thanks for the reply. 👍🏻
You didn't cover thinning?
gary24752 there is no thinning with this finish. Ready to spray right out of the can.
Ear plugs?!?! He must not have the Fuji Q model. 😜
Your technique would be better if you maintained a 90 degree angle between your spray gun nozzle and your project...perfectly perpendicular. Also maintain distance between nozzle and work project. If you did wet out the first coat, maybe you wouldn't have to de-nib after . I spray cars for a living so there are some crossover principles.
Mark Anthony two very different things my friend, and if you’ve ever seen my work and finishes in person, like my clients have experienced, for so many years, you wouldn’t be commenting about my technique. But thanks for watching
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Yeah...maybe your right...I guess as a automotive painter I'm not used to sanding sprayed finishes ...that's a sign in my trade that you don't know what you're doing...but from your video I certainly agree that as much as I can see it looks pretty nice!
good video, but need to use correct wording. Polyurethane is "oil" based. You want polyacrylic which is "water" based.
I did it too. This is what I used woodprix designs for
N me
WHY DOES CAN SAY CLEAR AND IT LOOKS GRAY????😂😂😂
It’s a waterborne acrylic. It dries clear
What was the actual machine you was useing to produce the air sir?
That was the earlex sprayport. I believe I linked it in the description. Now I use a fuji semi pro 2 system. Only because after 7 years of hard use, the Earlex finally died. Otherwise it was a good unit.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 ok great thx for the info,I'm goin to be spraying water BASED polyurethane
Great video!