You may have noticed that motorcycles don’t do belt drive in bikes that have any reasonable expectation of going off road. While there are plenty of belts that can handle the power of Any current offroadable motorcycle, they are not reliable in this application. One main reason is: if a rock gets between the belt and the sprocket, it will break or strip the belt. There is a reasonable chance something like this happened to yours. Unless there is a full cover with No chance of even small rocks getting into your primary drive, I would recommend any quality chain system considering the style of riding you prefer to do. Videos are getting better as I work though them. Great job guys and best of luck as you strive to be primary content creators for this bike and a distributor for the products you believe in. 👍
could it have been you coming on with full throttle while mid air, and when you landed the belt went into "retire-mode" due to too much force? that has happened to me a couple of times when jumping on beltdrive eskates awesome tutorial for changing to chain :) thanks!
I have used 303 aircraft protectant for years on my car belts and have never changed them. I just got my Sur Ron a week ago and on of the first thing I did was to soak my belt with it and let it set overnight. This way it was dry and treated and I don't expect it to go bad as I will do this once every 3 months. You can call this hokee but this stuff works!
@@sparkfire1223 303 will keep the belt "soft" if used since new and may give extended longevity to slightly used belts. Or put another way, 303 keeps the belt from drying out and becoming brittle, which is the leading cause of belt failure. Second leading cause is foreign material/contamination, so be sure belt is clean and dry after application.
Replace that notched swingarm axle nut with 10x1.0 nut. A 3/8 rod cut to 6 5/8 and ran thru swingarm and jack shaft on install will make the installation much less of a hassle. It keeps the jack shaft properly aligned without needing 4 hands.
I'm new to this eBike stuff and am thinking of getting a Suron. I have been doing a lot of research. And I'm trying to decide on belt vs chain. On the luna cycle website it specifically states that the belt drive should only be used on street conditions and never used in any scenarios where the rear tire will ever lose contact with the ground when throttle is applied otherwise it will strip the belt. I imagine when you were repeatedly going over all those bumps and rocks with the throttle pegged is what caused the stripping. From the luna cycle belt upgrade webpage it says: "This kit is not for you if you jump curbs, speed bumps or like to do some burnouts, if the rear wheel catches some air and you pin the throttle, the rear wheel will go to 45mph in a fraction of a second then upon landing the belt will likely break due to the enormous stress." But like I said I'm new to this stuff and I might have no clue what I'm talking about. :) Just offering up a possibility.
What you are thinking of is the secondary drive belt which is an upgrade to the stock chain secondary drive. This video is referring to the stock primary drive which comes as a belt drive no matter what.
Primary belt is subject to a bit less stress but the phenomenon described by jwdonal still apply. A lot of riders had their belt break on landing a jump.
Because the primary drive sprocket is keyed, I wouldn't go to a chain. If the chain snaps and Wraps itself around the primary gear and stops the motor shaft from rotating freely, it could destroy the shaft, seals or other components of the motor. Keeping the belt as the weak link in this scenario is a smarter choice imo... Also, while u were in there you might as well have replaced the swingarm ball bearings for needle bearings. Thanks for the video
@@emotobros I put one on mine, I think it sounds better than the belt! I also went with the lower geared option, I mostly use mine in the mountains. Top speed went from 47MPH to 40. Good video!
My friend replaced his belt with the chain luna suggests. Same loudness as the belt. I want a Sur-On now. Quiet and two chains for extra strength. I'm sold.
Isn’t there a plate you have to put on the bottom I’ve seen some people put them on what’s the purpose for it anyways if people are putting the bottom plate on does it quiet the chain noise ?
Your reaction was literally IDENTICAL to mine. Pretty fricking annoying hey? Once I realized what was wrong I ripped the remaining threads out with my hands and pushed her back to the parking lot for an hour and a half.
Really Awesome channel ! Loving my Sur Ron - upgraded the tires and bars - next up is a fork - thinking the Bomber 58. What foot pegs did you put your bike - they look really Grippy ?
@@emotobros Thanks for the great videos! Just curious where you guys sourced your BAC 4000. Seems like the only option is from this ECT, but I have heard mixed reviews. Definitely want to upgrade to the BAC 4000. Thanks.
@@derekbauer5413 We are distributors for ASI so we order our BAC4000's direct and tune them ourselves. Be on the lookout because we are going to start selling them soon. Trying to tie up a few loose ends before we proceed.
very nice video guys! did you have problems removing the rear wheel for the first time? feel like i will end up stripping the bolt its on there so tight! did you just use a impact drill at first? thanks!
We did not have any issues removing the rear wheel, make sure you get a good grip on the nut and bolt with a socket on a ratchet. We would not recommend using an impact driver for very many things in this bike as a lot of the threads and bolts are very soft and cheap making them easy to mess up.
Yesteray i was at my friend's house and he has a surron. he lets me drive it every time i visit him. the belt was skipping a when i gave it a full throttle. after 2 hours it sould even move. it sounded like an F1 car. i litterally tought i broke his surron
Since this video we’ve gone back to belt but not for the purpose of saving the motor. The belt was used in this instance for reducing stretching and noise generation that comes with a chain.
Broke my belt yesterday on a ride... Luckily not too far out there, and it was 70% downhill on the way out. Installed my chain primary last night. Not too difficult but you are right, putting the swingarm back on is a struggle..... How tight do you run your primary chain? I tightened mine up about as tight as I could get it, as I figured we don't want slack, but I'm having trouble finding clear guidance on that question. Thanks for the dope content. I'm in GP. We should get together and shred! (My 72v setup is on its way!)
Yeah never a fun time when that happens. We tensioned ours to the point where there wasn’t slack but not so tight that it’s causing unnecessary wear. Not very scientific but unless you have a tension gauge there is no easy way. Hit us up via email when you want to ride 🤘🏽
For chain tension on fixed sprocket centers, if you push down or pull up on one side of the chain, from the center, it SHOULD move ONE link HEIGHT. Never try for NO slack on the chain (any chain), it will wear the bushing/pins fast. One they wear, it accelerates wear. If the chain and sprockets are correct tension/slack, and the sprockets are aligned, it can't fall off.
Is a o ring primary chain an option? I wonder if it would be quieter?? Or maybe both chains could be o ring. I wonder if anyone has tried either or both?
Stock Sur Rons are not very powerful. Using Oring and Xring chains will cause a slight but noticeable decrease in power. Even on my 72 volt bac 8000 I don't use O or X ring chains. I see no need, just more friction and drag. Just a non chinese high quality plain 420 chain is all you need. If I had the primary chain conversion kit installed I'd use an X ring gold 420 chain because it can get away with less tightening and lube intervals than a plain 420 chain.
@@boltuprightmaui X and O ring chains are slightly quieter but not really worth talking about. More than anything else an overly tight and under-lubed chain will be obviously noisier than a slightly loose and properly lubed chain. Chains can handle being a little loose and will benefit wear and noise wise. A toothed belt needs all play removed and then a little tension applied. Long rear secondary chain to belt conversions must have that long stretchy belt very tight or risk stripping. That extra tight belt stresses the jack shaft and rear wheel bearings. Chains are far and away more reliable especially offroad. Replacing front or rear SR belts suck and is not something that can be done in the middle of nowhere. Chains whether front or rear are easy to replace or repair. I personally will be using a gold x-ring chain on my front chain conversion and a regular gold non o or x ring on rear.
I didnt like the noise. I use my surron to drive 12 miles to work and I couldn't handle it. I can pull the trans and swap main drives in under an hour.
Nice, just had to do this yesterday but opted to use the 219 chain kit, seems like a nice medium and not as load, curious what app you used to measure the sound and see what mine reads out. Thanks for sharing, people will surely find this very helpful
I used an app called “dB Meter” of the App Store, although it was only a free 3 day trial. I would be curious to hear what the 219 sounds like as I am disappointed with the 420 kit that I got
Not optimal for sure but we've had so many bolts seize on these from the factory loctite and then shear in half that we didn't want to deal with that pain. I hit them in my pre-ride check and haven't found a loose one yet in 3+ years...
This is what we would normally do but these bolts have a tendency to seize and rust due to the amount of debris they see. Grease prevents seizing and rusting, but you're right that blue loctite would be safer. Just need to check the bolts more when you grease them.
@@jetrep Anti-seize would be better for steel into aluminum but that isn't the case here. The main difference is the amount of solids in anti-seize and how that changes heat resistance. Many studies have been done regarding over-torqueing with a lubricated bolt and while that does occur, using grease vs. anti-seize makes little difference in the amount it can be over-torqued. In fact, most people say anti-seize is easier to over-torque than grease. Either option will work fine and the bolts should be checked often regardless.
You've had the chain conversion on the bike for a while now, any updates on chain longevity/wear? Have you had to make any tension adjustments with the motor mount bolts since installing it? Do you clean and lubricate it, or ignore it? I would really like to know.
I have adjusted the tension and I have to lube it pretty often or it gets really loud. The noise is aggravating to the point I’ve already bought a 219 chain kit to try out. Longevity is good though and if your running elevated power levels you need a chain because the belt will strip eventually.
The SR primary belt is nothing more than a small timing belt as used in millions of automobile engines. No belt manufacturer or auto manufacturers have ever recommended using any form of belt dressing on their timing belts,.. in fact if oil or antifreeze gets on the belt it shortens belt life and they recommend replacing it. Dry sprays such as silicone are slippery and can cause the belt teeth to skip and strip off. Wet belt dressings are a mess and degrade the belt. Overtightening the belt will cause it to fail prematurely and make it noisier. Properly tensioned cogged belts should be tightened until the play is removed and a hair more. There are also better quality belts than the stock chinese belt. The best way to prolong the life of the primary belt is to fab covers and shields. As for your noisy chain,. You might have it too tight which will make it noticeably louder. It must have some slack and be lubed regularly (just like the rear chain) and a shield should fabbed to keep chain lube from flying off onto rear brake rotor.
Everything you said makes sense about the belt. We just put some lube on it to quiet it down but the fact it broke would suggest it was a bad move. Belt dressing generally shouldn’t hurt it though. I don’t think I made the chain too tight though but I will play around with it. Thanks for the advice.
@@emotobros I think you'd find it interesting that no belt manufacturer has ever advised any form of dressing on their v-belts, multi groove (serpentine) or cogged (toothed) belts. Especially cogged belts. I've been an auto/truck tech for 50 years and every belt rep I ever spoke too advised against it. If dressing was beneficial they'd be selling it under their brand or including it with their belts. Steer clear of it. If you have belt noise or wear problems figure out why and fix it or replace the belt.
Silicone? Why in the heck would you do that? Even though Silicone doesn't react with rubber/plastic, but lubricating the teeth seems like a recipe for ... oh, yeah, you experienced that whole thing: "Disaster."
@@emotobros That makes sense. I see your point. I guess I'm just leery of applying liquid products to synthetic surfaces and of adding anything slippery to anything that maybe doesn't need to slip. Silicone oil is generally pretty safe stuff. I can understand the desire to apply it to cantankerous, squeaky items. Sur-ron should have made the bike 2" longer and used those 2" on the primary belt drive pulley-to-pulley distance. If I talk to the engineers in China, & I'm strongly considering doing so, I'll mention that to them. They seem nice enough.
@@TheBsavage Hmm what your talking about reminds me of the Talaria sting. Supposedly one of the original owners split of from the main company and made his own bike. Similar to the Sur Ron different wheel base, slightly dif this and that, more power but more weight, bigger bike but less nimble, on a on... /interesting -Cheers
There was a lot of stuff we wanted to cover and the installation itself is very time consuming. I would encourage you to skip around in the videos to watch what is useful to you before leaving negative comments. If you think 15 minutes is too long then you should have seen it before it was edited.
Every video you guys make is gold 😍💯
You may have noticed that motorcycles don’t do belt drive in bikes that have any reasonable expectation of going off road.
While there are plenty of belts that can handle the power of Any current offroadable motorcycle, they are not reliable in this application.
One main reason is: if a rock gets between the belt and the sprocket, it will break or strip the belt.
There is a reasonable chance something like this happened to yours.
Unless there is a full cover with No chance of even small rocks getting into your primary drive, I would recommend any quality chain system considering the style of riding you prefer to do.
Videos are getting better as I work though them.
Great job guys and best of luck as you strive to be primary content creators for this bike and a distributor for the products you believe in. 👍
I had the peddle system and chain links where being pulled apart. not safe.
could it have been you coming on with full throttle while mid air, and when you landed the belt went into "retire-mode" due to too much force?
that has happened to me a couple of times when jumping on beltdrive eskates
awesome tutorial for changing to chain :) thanks!
I have used 303 aircraft protectant for years on my car belts and have never changed them. I just got my Sur Ron a week ago and on of the first thing I did was to soak my belt with it and let it set overnight. This way it was dry and treated and I don't expect it to go bad as I will do this once every 3 months.
You can call this hokee but this stuff works!
Good tip! We may have to give that a try
Why do you think this works just wondering?
@@sparkfire1223 303 will keep the belt "soft" if used since new and may give extended longevity to slightly used belts. Or put another way, 303 keeps the belt from drying out and becoming brittle, which is the leading cause of belt failure. Second leading cause is foreign material/contamination, so be sure belt is clean and dry after application.
Great step by step ...above my skill set 😂
Doing this today! Thanks!
I hope your going to make a video!! I’m waiting patiently at the window for mine to arrive!! 🤪
@Edwin Olding no problem! Send us podcast details whenever you get the chance if that is still on 🤘🏽
Replace that notched swingarm axle nut with 10x1.0 nut. A 3/8 rod cut to 6 5/8 and ran thru swingarm and jack shaft on install will make the installation much less of a hassle. It keeps the jack shaft properly aligned without needing 4 hands.
I literally sprayed wd40 around my belt yesterday and stripped it today it makes sense that not helping at all 👌🏼
Those fox front forks are just EPIC
Thanks for the back to back sound comparison
I'm new to this eBike stuff and am thinking of getting a Suron. I have been doing a lot of research. And I'm trying to decide on belt vs chain. On the luna cycle website it specifically states that the belt drive should only be used on street conditions and never used in any scenarios where the rear tire will ever lose contact with the ground when throttle is applied otherwise it will strip the belt. I imagine when you were repeatedly going over all those bumps and rocks with the throttle pegged is what caused the stripping. From the luna cycle belt upgrade webpage it says: "This kit is not for you if you jump curbs, speed bumps or like to do some burnouts, if the rear wheel catches some air and you pin the throttle, the rear wheel will go to 45mph in a fraction of a second then upon landing the belt will likely break due to the enormous stress." But like I said I'm new to this stuff and I might have no clue what I'm talking about. :) Just offering up a possibility.
What you are thinking of is the secondary drive belt which is an upgrade to the stock chain secondary drive. This video is referring to the stock primary drive which comes as a belt drive no matter what.
@@emotobros Thanks for correcting me! See, I said I might have no clue what I'm talking about! :) I learned something new. Thanks!
Primary belt is subject to a bit less stress but the phenomenon described by jwdonal still apply. A lot of riders had their belt break on landing a jump.
Because the primary drive sprocket is keyed, I wouldn't go to a chain. If the chain snaps and Wraps itself around the primary gear and stops the motor shaft from rotating freely, it could destroy the shaft, seals or other components of the motor. Keeping the belt as the weak link in this scenario is a smarter choice imo...
Also, while u were in there you might as well have replaced the swingarm ball bearings for needle bearings.
Thanks for the video
Luna also made one that uses 219 cart chain. Its supposed to be best of both worlds. Quiet and durable. That's the one I'm leaning towards.
That's exactly what we would have done in hindsight. Leave a comment if you get it and let us know how the sound difference is.
@@emotobros I put one on mine, I think it sounds better than the belt! I also went with the lower geared option, I mostly use mine in the mountains. Top speed went from 47MPH to 40. Good video!
My friend replaced his belt with the chain luna suggests. Same loudness as the belt. I want a Sur-On now. Quiet and two chains for extra strength. I'm sold.
I really cant find any solid answer, hopfully anyone can help me. 420, 219 or belt, which one gives more range?
Really ty for your answer!
Isn’t there a plate you have to put on the bottom I’ve seen some people put them on what’s the purpose for it anyways if people are putting the bottom plate on does it quiet the chain noise ?
I do it with my surron, my belt broken after 300 km ride. What about chain tension?
Awesome video guys thanks for the help 👌👊🏼🔥
Your reaction was literally IDENTICAL to mine. Pretty fricking annoying hey? Once I realized what was wrong I ripped the remaining threads out with my hands and pushed her back to the parking lot for an hour and a half.
Agreed!! you are also making extra power..Thanks for the vid...
Awesome upload!
I'd rather use the chain to ensured strength. Belts wear out too easily. Dust will destroy belts. Sprays will dry belts out.
Sick riding man!!
Is that a aftermarket seat and if so where can I get one please?
Well I’ll def stock to the belt :)
Greentruth420 I think so
Really Awesome channel ! Loving my Sur Ron - upgraded the tires and bars - next up is a fork - thinking the Bomber 58. What foot pegs did you put your bike - they look really Grippy ?
We got Sur-Ron America pegs for one and ebay rmz 250 pegs for the other. The bomber 58 is a great fork!
I would love to see some content on you guys upgrading to a BAC 8000 controller and a light speed 72v battery. Btw great vids!
Currently developing a tune for our BAC 4000 with a BMS upgrade on stock battery. Currently short on funds for a 72V or we would.
@@emotobros thanks for the reply and I'm excited for the future videos to come.
@@emotobros Thanks for the great videos! Just curious where you guys sourced your BAC 4000. Seems like the only option is from this ECT, but I have heard mixed reviews. Definitely want to upgrade to the BAC 4000. Thanks.
@@derekbauer5413 We are distributors for ASI so we order our BAC4000's direct and tune them ourselves. Be on the lookout because we are going to start selling them soon. Trying to tie up a few loose ends before we proceed.
@@emotobros Great!
excellent videos. top notch :)
hi, how is the electrick part off the bike holding one ?????
very nice video guys!
did you have problems removing the rear wheel for the first time?
feel like i will end up stripping the bolt its on there so tight!
did you just use a impact drill at first?
thanks!
We did not have any issues removing the rear wheel, make sure you get a good grip on the nut and bolt with a socket on a ratchet. We would not recommend using an impact driver for very many things in this bike as a lot of the threads and bolts are very soft and cheap making them easy to mess up.
Is there a tension for this kit I think mine became loose?
Yesteray i was at my friend's house and he has a surron. he lets me drive it every time i visit him. the belt was skipping a when i gave it a full throttle. after 2 hours it sould even move. it sounded like an F1 car. i litterally tought i broke his surron
Very usesul, thanks ! :)
By removing the belt primary and converting to chain, are you removing a designed weak point to save the motor??..
Since this video we’ve gone back to belt but not for the purpose of saving the motor. The belt was used in this instance for reducing stretching and noise generation that comes with a chain.
Broke my belt yesterday on a ride... Luckily not too far out there, and it was 70% downhill on the way out. Installed my chain primary last night. Not too difficult but you are right, putting the swingarm back on is a struggle..... How tight do you run your primary chain? I tightened mine up about as tight as I could get it, as I figured we don't want slack, but I'm having trouble finding clear guidance on that question. Thanks for the dope content. I'm in GP. We should get together and shred! (My 72v setup is on its way!)
Yeah never a fun time when that happens. We tensioned ours to the point where there wasn’t slack but not so tight that it’s causing unnecessary wear. Not very scientific but unless you have a tension gauge there is no easy way. Hit us up via email when you want to ride 🤘🏽
For chain tension on fixed sprocket centers, if you push down or pull up on one side of the chain, from the center, it SHOULD move ONE link HEIGHT. Never try for NO slack on the chain (any chain), it will wear the bushing/pins fast. One they wear, it accelerates wear. If the chain and sprockets are correct tension/slack, and the sprockets are aligned, it can't fall off.
Interesting video!
Is a o ring primary chain an option? I wonder if it would be quieter?? Or maybe both chains could be o ring. I wonder if anyone has tried either or both?
Stock Sur Rons are not very powerful. Using Oring and Xring chains will cause a slight but noticeable decrease in power. Even on my 72 volt bac 8000 I don't use O or X ring chains. I see no need, just more friction and drag. Just a non chinese high quality plain 420 chain is all you need. If I had the primary chain conversion kit installed I'd use an X ring gold 420 chain because it can get away with less tightening and lube intervals than a plain 420 chain.
@@trjonez Would the o-ring on just the primary be noticeably quieter?
@@boltuprightmaui X and O ring chains are slightly quieter but not really worth talking about. More than anything else an overly tight and under-lubed chain will be obviously noisier than a slightly loose and properly lubed chain. Chains can handle being a little loose and will benefit wear and noise wise. A toothed belt needs all play removed and then a little tension applied. Long rear secondary chain to belt conversions must have that long stretchy belt very tight or risk stripping. That extra tight belt stresses the jack shaft and rear wheel bearings. Chains are far and away more reliable especially offroad. Replacing front or rear SR belts suck and is not something that can be done in the middle of nowhere. Chains whether front or rear are easy to replace or repair. I personally will be using a gold x-ring chain on my front chain conversion and a regular gold non o or x ring on rear.
Good stuff, Mahalo!!
I didnt like the noise. I use my surron to drive 12 miles to work and I couldn't handle it. I can pull the trans and swap main drives in under an hour.
Nice, just had to do this yesterday but opted to use the 219 chain kit, seems like a nice medium and not as load, curious what app you used to measure the sound and see what mine reads out. Thanks for sharing, people will surely find this very helpful
I used an app called “dB Meter” of the App Store, although it was only a free 3 day trial. I would be curious to hear what the 219 sounds like as I am disappointed with the 420 kit that I got
@@emotobros right on, thanks, I'll happily do a test and report back. Looks like now I'll need to find someone who wants the 420 kit haha
There are comparison videos about the 219 on RUclips. I wonder though if it’s as resistant as the 420...
What kinda paint or spray did u use for your shock
Powder coat.
What’s the stem your using bro
not sure I'd have used grease instead of loctite for the primary sprocket...nah I'm sure i wouldn't have.
Not optimal for sure but we've had so many bolts seize on these from the factory loctite and then shear in half that we didn't want to deal with that pain. I hit them in my pre-ride check and haven't found a loose one yet in 3+ years...
Don’t use grease for inside the bolts
Is there enough space to double the sprockets and drive belts on the primary drive?
No way
What tension do you run for the primary drive? Do I want a little slack?
We tensioned it to the point where there was little to no slack expecting that the first couple rides it would break in a bit and loosen up.
Little slack or you'll cause too much resistance and add stress to gearbox,it's so short only a tiny amount of play is needed and it'll last years.
U should not add grease to those bolts to the sprocket they will eventually get loose use loctite
Did any quieter after use or did it just stay the same noise
Definitely stayed about the same.
I ordered this chain conversion kit last week just in case. So stoked y’all made this vid
What one did you order?
Amazing video guys. Any performance difference?
If there is, it is not noticeable just by riding. Maybe a vary slight decrease in range.. speed and power is unaffected.
@@emotobros Cool thx. Have to say I'm on the fence with this one, but leaning towards belt.
Where did you get the cover to put on the chain drive?
Every cover on the bike is stock.
Make sure you use blue lock tight, not grease on fasteners.
This is what we would normally do but these bolts have a tendency to seize and rust due to the amount of debris they see. Grease prevents seizing and rusting, but you're right that blue loctite would be safer. Just need to check the bolts more when you grease them.
@@emotobros If anything use anti-seize. grease isn't generally a good idea here and can also lead to very easily over-torquing the fasteners.
@@jetrep Anti-seize would be better for steel into aluminum but that isn't the case here. The main difference is the amount of solids in anti-seize and how that changes heat resistance. Many studies have been done regarding over-torqueing with a lubricated bolt and while that does occur, using grease vs. anti-seize makes little difference in the amount it can be over-torqued. In fact, most people say anti-seize is easier to over-torque than grease. Either option will work fine and the bolts should be checked often regardless.
Been there... Feels terrible
You've had the chain conversion on the bike for a while now, any updates on chain longevity/wear? Have you had to make any tension adjustments with the motor mount bolts since installing it? Do you clean and lubricate it, or ignore it? I would really like to know.
I have adjusted the tension and I have to lube it pretty often or it gets really loud. The noise is aggravating to the point I’ve already bought a 219 chain kit to try out. Longevity is good though and if your running elevated power levels you need a chain because the belt will strip eventually.
@@emotobros How much give should a 420 chain have? Mine is tight and it's pretty darn loud. Is it possible to use an O-ring chain?
Is this kit stock gearing?
It is.
The SR primary belt is nothing more than a small timing belt as used in millions of automobile engines. No belt manufacturer or auto manufacturers have ever recommended using any form of belt dressing on their timing belts,.. in fact if oil or antifreeze gets on the belt it shortens belt life and they recommend replacing it. Dry sprays such as silicone are slippery and can cause the belt teeth to skip and strip off. Wet belt dressings are a mess and degrade the belt. Overtightening the belt will cause it to fail prematurely and make it noisier. Properly tensioned cogged belts should be tightened until the play is removed and a hair more. There are also better quality belts than the stock chinese belt. The best way to prolong the life of the primary belt is to fab covers and shields. As for your noisy chain,. You might have it too tight which will make it noticeably louder. It must have some slack and be lubed regularly (just like the rear chain) and a shield should fabbed to keep chain lube from flying off onto rear brake rotor.
Everything you said makes sense about the belt. We just put some lube on it to quiet it down but the fact it broke would suggest it was a bad move. Belt dressing generally shouldn’t hurt it though. I don’t think I made the chain too tight though but I will play around with it. Thanks for the advice.
@@emotobros I think you'd find it interesting that no belt manufacturer has ever advised any form of dressing on their v-belts, multi groove (serpentine) or cogged (toothed) belts. Especially cogged belts. I've been an auto/truck tech for 50 years and every belt rep I ever spoke too advised against it. If dressing was beneficial they'd be selling it under their brand or including it with their belts. Steer clear of it. If you have belt noise or wear problems figure out why and fix it or replace the belt.
Aren't chains the preferred option for off road use?
They are for power levels higher than stock.
And where’s the orange linkage from at the back
Stem is in description of upgrade video and rear link was just powder coated.
@@emotobros cheers dude and what size 20 or 30
All preference. One just raises bar height by 1cm more than the other.
@@emotobros that’s sick cheers bro, it says 31 only? Will the 28s fit?
@@DRIP_SZN I think so, honestly not sure if there was even an option when we ordered.
Can you switch your 420 chains to 219?
Are you referring to the primary drive or secondary drive?
@@emotobros primary
219 would be better primary option but was out of stock when we got this one.
You’d need to change the sprockets I guess.
landing on power of jumps will not help belt life
✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️👍
Silicone? Why in the heck would you do that? Even though Silicone doesn't react with rubber/plastic, but lubricating the teeth seems like a recipe for ... oh, yeah, you experienced that whole thing: "Disaster."
I mean it was silicone belt dressing. Didn’t seem that unreasonable at the time.
@@emotobros That makes sense. I see your point. I guess I'm just leery of applying liquid products to synthetic surfaces and of adding anything slippery to anything that maybe doesn't need to slip. Silicone oil is generally pretty safe stuff. I can understand the desire to apply it to cantankerous, squeaky items. Sur-ron should have made the bike 2" longer and used those 2" on the primary belt drive pulley-to-pulley distance. If I talk to the engineers in China, & I'm strongly considering doing so, I'll mention that to them. They seem nice enough.
@@TheBsavage Hmm what your talking about reminds me of the Talaria sting. Supposedly one of the original owners split of from the main company and made his own bike. Similar to the Sur Ron different wheel base, slightly dif this and that, more power but more weight, bigger bike but less nimble, on a on... /interesting -Cheers
Ay can you look at my video and give any input on what you might think is going wrong with my bike. I would be thankful for any opinion.
Я русский 🤦♂️😭😭
Too long. Thumbs down.
There was a lot of stuff we wanted to cover and the installation itself is very time consuming. I would encourage you to skip around in the videos to watch what is useful to you before leaving negative comments. If you think 15 minutes is too long then you should have seen it before it was edited.