Don't make the same mistakes I did! My COMPLETE build spreadsheet! docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1utxt6RxZKm9tagEljE45dF8TdDBuiJMvdeBqbGWcQg0/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks man! That's why I make this stuff, this way people can have more fun and have less trouble with their builds. Now I'm just waiting for spring so I can take the car back out!
One tip with the China Chargers with internal gates: bore out the hole where the wastegate flap contacts the turbo(not larger than the flap of course) and grind a bit behind the flap to let it swing open a tad more. This allows for more flow, I could get a steady 7psi on gate, of course I then installed a mechanical boost controller and doubled to 14 😆
You, Gingium, and Miata dad are teaching me the turbo ways. Currently got my 91 on jack stands, pulling the accessories off in prep to take it out and rebuilt it. Starting my turbo build list based somewhat off yours and going to start saving! I'm looking for the 250whp range and majority custom look. Not so much the body but everything else that matters ;) Thank you for your content and time, honestly.
Moving the IAT to the IC cold side end tank, or the elbow/piping in that area is what we have been suggesting to people experiencing the radiator wash heat soaking the sensor body. Always love seeing your car, and direct about 10 people a week to your youtube. Keep kicking ass and making awesome content bud.
Not a bad price! Unfortunately that's super far away and they're not cheap to ship, and I want a 4.3 or a 4.1 for lower end acceleration. I appreciate the tip though!
Excellent content and well delivered. I do great work and have good ideas but no cinematography skills to put it together. My videos are just short and to the point.😂 I really wanted to do a restomod on my Miata and went with high end goodies for the upgrades as part of the restoration. Kraken system with full 3” exhaust seems so have everything I wanted without having to piece part together one after watching vids like this. Thanks
Hate to say it but doing turbo with actuator together doesn't really solve the issues either. Really on mine it said 7psi gated and it would boost north of 21psi out the box. With springs I got it steady at 15psi. I finally changed to a nissan wastegate actuator and did some serious wastegate porting to it and got it to hold right at 7psi.
5:47 on behalf of all miata owners. your method of intercooler routing is much cleaner. Trust me. The side to side method you are talking about is a pain in the ass to route. It takes up more space.
While I agree that the end product is cleaner, it takes a while to modify the hood and front crash structure to line everything up perfectly and it’s not easy to get the couplers in place and tightened down. Also this limits to 2 inch piping and a smaller intercooler, unless you move your radiator back, which I’ve seen people do but then it becomes a bigger project. Both have their pros and cons, that’s for sure!
Could you imagine if you could digitally send your tune to a tuner and have them practically airdrop a new tune into your ecu that would be mad dope and game changing
Cash do me a favor (& I'm sure it not bothering you but) take that speedo cluster out and snatch out that airbag light bulb so you can stop seeing that flashing light like I did.
Wow this is great you’re awesome man! Can’t believe you did the tuning yourself! Looks like I’ll likely have to do that too since no dyno shops will work on my car(or any of my cars for that matter) it’s also unbelievable that you did this so cheaply. My used plug and play standalone pfc alone was $1000, not to mention I’m reusing a $1300 turbo from my previous Subaru build but besides that I’ve got everything else I need for under $1000.
Brilliant! The one thing I didn’t hear you talk about is the compression rate of the engine. What are usually heard from specialists is that when you turbo charge an aspirated engine you should lower the engine compression rate by creating a head gasket to make sure you lower the compression rate at least 0.6/1. What do you say about this?.
@@CashedOutCars You will still need to run low boost otherwise you blow up the engine. I hve a stock 4efte Toyota at 0.9. I bought it when it had already 90,000 km. Even if I will change the exhaust manifold and put a piggyback to hire boost I know that I have a limit. The engine isn’t fresh and it would need to be forged to raise hp above 180. We are talking about daily daily use car.
Greatly useful video as usual, quality advice, thanks :) Wouldn't an external waste gate and ebay turbo also be an option? For rear diff I've read that it's possible to use the S2000 rear diff as well which are even more robust than the 1.8 (price may vary though)
Thanks! Yeah an external gate would be an option assuming there's a spot to mount one, on this 1.6L manifold there isn't a bolt on spot so I'd require welding on a flange. I've also seen some people cut and weld a flange on their turbine housing, but that spooks me a bit. That's interesting with the S2K diffs, it looks like they've very similar except for the axle size so it would be a bit of a retro fit, but nothing crazy. If I don't find a Miata diff in the near future I might continue looking into that!
I appreciate these big overview videos you've done. I've been dailying my 350k mile 1.6 miata for 5 years and I'm finally ready to go supercharger. My engine recently kicked the bucket so I did a full rebuild and with my forged pistons I'm confident I can handle way more power than the m45 supercharger can give me. I've also already got a torsen diff! Currently really struggling to decide intercooler routing and I'm also a bit scared about actually plugging the ECU in for the first time. I'm not willing to delete my powered steering, so should I just route intercooler over the top like yours?
I have a 1.8 open. I don't plan to drift or drag race so I think it should be fine for the 200ish who mark I'm aiming for. miata 1.8 LSD prices are nuts!
What do you think about oil cooled only Turbo vs the ones like garret that are oil and water cooled? I'm just wondering the longevity and wether it's best to for the dual cooled from the get go.
For longevity sake it's better to go with a watercooled turbo. I went with no watercooling simply because there wasn't one available with it cheap and small on ebay at the time
Cash, have you shared your spool data anywhere publically? I just got the same turbo as you and would love to see some related data on what rpm you hit 3,5,9,14 psi respectively.
I have some data logs I can send you, 10psi is about 4,500 RPM which is a bit higher than I'd like. Once I finish setting up my EBC I should be able to speed that up. Email me cashedoutcars@gmail.com
@@CashedOutCars thats true, +t25 turbos are rare to find where i live and there are no cheaper brands or ebay sellers like maxspeedingrods that do them (they only do big t28) i bought my t25 from kinugawa, ill see if its nice or not but its way more expensive
It can do both open or closed loop, I've been tuning it open loop which is why this problem happens. I can experiment with closed loop though, from what I've read it's more difficult to dial in though
hey, I got a speeduino because of you! I have an nb2 and got a "beta" kit. it doesn't have a very good base tune and I am having trouble getting idle...any chance that you could help !e? the guy who sold it to me hasn't really gotten back to my questions. I got mine from Australia.
Hi! Does the car run at all right now? And what injectors are you running? I'll do what i can to help! Also, the SpeedyEFI guys here in the states might be able too help out too
@@CashedOutCars I'm taking your advice and learning on a stock engine. I might contact the speedy efi guys but this seems to be a bit of a custom board made by NoisyMime (his site is speeduino I think? the naming is all greek to me). I had the car running perfectly fine on the stock ecu and I checked timing and all that checked out. when I put the speeduino in the car roughly starts but won't pull good vacuum under idle. on stock, I get 34ish kpa at idle but on the speeduino, if it starts up, it only gets down to 65ish kpa. I have the vvt solenoid turned off and am not sure if it's timing related (because sometimes I get backfires out the intake when trying to start) or maybe iacv? I've tested the MAP sensor in the unit and it is fine. no vac leaks in engine bay that I can find either. NB2 has a separate IAT sensor from the MAF and I'm using that for now (have a gm one but want to wait until car is running well on speeduino to change it out). wideband is an AEM UEGO.
I haven’t done lots of testing to figure out where the best spot NA would be, but I placed mine roughly where the stock MAF sat which worked alright but I didn’t have it there for a long time. It’ll still matter NA, and you can still have idle issues and issues while driving if you put it somewhere that it’ll get much hotter than the actual air entering your engine. Hopefully someone who’s ran an NA car longer than I have can help!
One question I have as a newbie in the middle of my turbo build(Havent started tuning it), when running an internal wastegate turbo(In my case a gt2554r) Should I set my boost amount to the same as the amount as the rating of the wastegate? Thanks Cash!
That’s a good question! The rating on the wastegate actuator is the lowest boost you can run without modifying it to open easier. The boost level you might be thinking of setting in your software is really a boost cut, which cuts the engine if it makes more boost than you’re trying to run. This should be set just slightly higher than the target boost you’re trying to run. Unless you have electronic boost control, you’ll end up making about the PSI that the actuator is rated at. I hope this helps!
You want the sensor in a location that will accurately reflect the air temp going into the engine, if it’s before the turbo it’ll likely read incorrectly since the air heats up while it’s compressed and then cools in the intercooler. Somewhere on the cold side of the intercooler or in the piping just after it, but not in a location that’ll heat soak, is the best spot. Let me know if you have more questions!
That's something I still need to dial in and will likely pay someone to do it so I can learn from them. Then I'd post what I learned here. Right now I need to give my car some throttle while cranking and it starts right up, but I'd like to get it to the point where it starts like stock
I’ll have to give that a shot! I would have thought it was the opposite since open throttle means more air to make a more lean mixture, but I’m learning along with you guys and reporting out once I figure out good solutions. Thanks!
@@CashedOutCars I had the same thought process, I tried giving it less fuel (like 100% cranking enrichment) and it didn't change anything. Then I tried giving it heaps more fuel and it worked. It still needs dialing in but it starts within 3 seconds now and needs only 1 turn of the key.
Hahahah I’ve been told by the speedyefi guys that it should fit in the stock location, I might try that and leave the tuning cable hooked up. If not the glovebox might be an option, or mounted to the side of the passenger compartment footwell
That'll depend on your power goals! I'd go with a relatively small ebay turbo that matches your manifold. I was considering making a video on turbo sizing!
![How To Tune ANY Freshly Turbo'd Car [For Beginners] | 2Broke2Boosted Ep. 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DnMQUSGg-wI/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Tune ANY Freshly Turbo'd Car [For Beginners] | 2Broke2Boosted Ep. 14](/img/tr.png)
Don't make the same mistakes I did!
My COMPLETE build spreadsheet! docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1utxt6RxZKm9tagEljE45dF8TdDBuiJMvdeBqbGWcQg0/edit?usp=sharing
this video is SWEET. preventing our problems before they even happen. you’re the best bro keep it up👌
Thanks man! That's why I make this stuff, this way people can have more fun and have less trouble with their builds. Now I'm just waiting for spring so I can take the car back out!
One tip with the China Chargers with internal gates: bore out the hole where the wastegate flap contacts the turbo(not larger than the flap of course) and grind a bit behind the flap to let it swing open a tad more. This allows for more flow, I could get a steady 7psi on gate, of course I then installed a mechanical boost controller and doubled to 14 😆
You, Gingium, and Miata dad are teaching me the turbo ways. Currently got my 91 on jack stands, pulling the accessories off in prep to take it out and rebuilt it. Starting my turbo build list based somewhat off yours and going to start saving! I'm looking for the 250whp range and majority custom look. Not so much the body but everything else that matters ;)
Thank you for your content and time, honestly.
Best of luck on your build, it sounds like you’re looking at all the right channels for info!
The holy 3, CashIumDad🤣
Moving the IAT to the IC cold side end tank, or the elbow/piping in that area is what we have been suggesting to people experiencing the radiator wash heat soaking the sensor body. Always love seeing your car, and direct about 10 people a week to your youtube. Keep kicking ass and making awesome content bud.
Thanks Isaac! The car is running great 3 years later, just had it on track again this weekend. Thanks for making a great and affordable product!
Name brand external wastegate is the way to go , it's bulletproof. I also did a liquid to air inercooler, easy to run 3/4inch rubber hoses. lol
Not a single dislike because this is amazing content!
I have a lead for a 3.9 torsen differential if your interested. axles, driveshaft and all for around 800$. Duded is in alabama
Not a bad price! Unfortunately that's super far away and they're not cheap to ship, and I want a 4.3 or a 4.1 for lower end acceleration. I appreciate the tip though!
Excellent content and well delivered. I do great work and have good ideas but no cinematography skills to put it together. My videos are just short and to the point.😂
I really wanted to do a restomod on my Miata and went with high end goodies for the upgrades as part of the restoration. Kraken system with full 3” exhaust seems so have everything I wanted without having to piece part together one after watching vids like this.
Thanks
FPSrussia’s son 🤘🏻 keep it up man awesome videos!
Hahahah thank you! I used to love that channel
Hate to say it but doing turbo with actuator together doesn't really solve the issues either. Really on mine it said 7psi gated and it would boost north of 21psi out the box. With springs I got it steady at 15psi. I finally changed to a nissan wastegate actuator and did some serious wastegate porting to it and got it to hold right at 7psi.
Gona need this as going to do my eunos 1.6 myself but previous owner has already upgraded the diffs
Watched all your videos. Excellent info.
Thanks.
+1 to SpeedyEFI for being awesome
They've done a great job making very capable, affordable products, and they stand behind em. Gotta love it!
5:47 on behalf of all miata owners. your method of intercooler routing is much cleaner. Trust me. The side to side method you are talking about is a pain in the ass to route. It takes up more space.
While I agree that the end product is cleaner, it takes a while to modify the hood and front crash structure to line everything up perfectly and it’s not easy to get the couplers in place and tightened down. Also this limits to 2 inch piping and a smaller intercooler, unless you move your radiator back, which I’ve seen people do but then it becomes a bigger project. Both have their pros and cons, that’s for sure!
Could you imagine if you could digitally send your tune to a tuner and have them practically airdrop a new tune into your ecu that would be mad dope and game changing
We're pretty close to that with what remote tuners can do! Not quite air drop, but people can tune from anywhere!
We can. You can give control of your laptop to a tuner and they can control your computer from a different country.
Cash do me a favor (& I'm sure it not bothering you but) take that speedo cluster out and snatch out that airbag light bulb so you can stop seeing that flashing light like I did.
The footage in this video is from last year, don't worry, I'll fix it for this year :)
Yes
Same thing pretty much for a 1.6 supercharged Miata. Ask me how I know ;) Just got a 3.9 torsen full swap too!
Did you end up blowing your diff or did you swap it before it did? Enjoy that car!
@@CashedOutCars Swapped proactively, towing a car is expensive and still got a $100 when selling it. Donuts are fun =)
Wow this is great you’re awesome man! Can’t believe you did the tuning yourself! Looks like I’ll likely have to do that too since no dyno shops will work on my car(or any of my cars for that matter) it’s also unbelievable that you did this so cheaply. My used plug and play standalone pfc alone was $1000, not to mention I’m reusing a $1300 turbo from my previous Subaru build but besides that I’ve got everything else I need for under $1000.
Enjoy your build! Thanks for watching my friend!
Brilliant! The one thing I didn’t hear you talk about is the compression rate of the engine. What are usually heard from specialists is that when you turbo charge an aspirated engine you should lower the engine compression rate by creating a head gasket to make sure you lower the compression rate at least 0.6/1. What do you say about this?.
That'll depend on the engine! Most miatas are very commonly turbo'd at stock levels, or even raised. Some applications may require lower though
@@CashedOutCars You will still need to run low boost otherwise you blow up the engine. I hve a stock 4efte Toyota at 0.9. I bought it when it had already 90,000 km. Even if I will change the exhaust manifold and put a piggyback to hire boost I know that I have a limit. The engine isn’t fresh and it would need to be forged to raise hp above 180. We are talking about daily daily use car.
If e85 , stock compression. If pump gas, lower it
@@drewdavis239 my 4efte is 8.5. The same engine without turbo compressor is 9.2.
Thank you for your honesty sir, very helpful.
You're very welcome, stay tuned for lots to come this year!
I'm natural aspiration now.
Use the thumbs up indicator in future videos but just pause and stare at it
Hahahahah I'll see what I can do, that's hilarious
Greatly useful video as usual, quality advice, thanks :)
Wouldn't an external waste gate and ebay turbo also be an option?
For rear diff I've read that it's possible to use the S2000 rear diff as well which are even more robust than the 1.8 (price may vary though)
Thanks! Yeah an external gate would be an option assuming there's a spot to mount one, on this 1.6L manifold there isn't a bolt on spot so I'd require welding on a flange. I've also seen some people cut and weld a flange on their turbine housing, but that spooks me a bit. That's interesting with the S2K diffs, it looks like they've very similar except for the axle size so it would be a bit of a retro fit, but nothing crazy. If I don't find a Miata diff in the near future I might continue looking into that!
The s2000 diff is made of glass, it is very weak. Use a ford 8.8.
I appreciate these big overview videos you've done. I've been dailying my 350k mile 1.6 miata for 5 years and I'm finally ready to go supercharger. My engine recently kicked the bucket so I did a full rebuild and with my forged pistons I'm confident I can handle way more power than the m45 supercharger can give me. I've also already got a torsen diff!
Currently really struggling to decide intercooler routing and I'm also a bit scared about actually plugging the ECU in for the first time. I'm not willing to delete my powered steering, so should I just route intercooler over the top like yours?
I actual picking up a open 1.8 diff ,driveshaft ,and axles for my 1.6 ,for only 250 dollars. Just look around alot ,for a cheap diff.
Not a bad price! I’ll probably end up getting an open just to hold the power until I can get a good deal on a torsen
I have a 1.8 open. I don't plan to drift or drag race so I think it should be fine for the 200ish who mark I'm aiming for. miata 1.8 LSD prices are nuts!
i have an open on my NB pushing around 210 hp and it is still fine, they handle a good amount of power as long as you're not launching it
@@JohnDoe-je3cr the 1.8 diff can handle 350-400 no matter if it's an open or lsd
What do you think about oil cooled only Turbo vs the ones like garret that are oil and water cooled? I'm just wondering the longevity and wether it's best to for the dual cooled from the get go.
For longevity sake it's better to go with a watercooled turbo. I went with no watercooling simply because there wasn't one available with it cheap and small on ebay at the time
Nice Status!
Cash, have you shared your spool data anywhere publically? I just got the same turbo as you and would love to see some related data on what rpm you hit 3,5,9,14 psi respectively.
I have some data logs I can send you, 10psi is about 4,500 RPM which is a bit higher than I'd like. Once I finish setting up my EBC I should be able to speed that up. Email me cashedoutcars@gmail.com
64mm turbine exducer is giant on a 1.6. Most e36 m3' use a 62mm (3.2 liter six)
Aside from the certain car specific stuff like radiators and ecu’s would most of this stuff be able to be carried over to a 350z?
Thanks for the info
You're welcome!
10:07 there are t3 to t2 adaptators
I did look at those for a while, it’d have made fitment of everything a bit tougher since it’s essentially a spacer that changes where the turbo sits
@@CashedOutCars thats true, +t25 turbos are rare to find where i live and there are no cheaper brands or ebay sellers like maxspeedingrods that do them (they only do big t28) i bought my t25 from kinugawa, ill see if its nice or not but its way more expensive
Good luck! I’m curious to hear how it does, have fun with your build!
Stage 1 or 2 happy meal clutch kit?
Stage 1!
Does that ECU use closed-loop fuel control? With your IAT sensor location problem, it seems it only operates in open-loop, yes?
It can do both open or closed loop, I've been tuning it open loop which is why this problem happens. I can experiment with closed loop though, from what I've read it's more difficult to dial in though
hey, I got a speeduino because of you! I have an nb2 and got a "beta" kit. it doesn't have a very good base tune and I am having trouble getting idle...any chance that you could help !e? the guy who sold it to me hasn't really gotten back to my questions. I got mine from Australia.
Hi! Does the car run at all right now? And what injectors are you running? I'll do what i can to help! Also, the SpeedyEFI guys here in the states might be able too help out too
@@CashedOutCars I'm taking your advice and learning on a stock engine. I might contact the speedy efi guys but this seems to be a bit of a custom board made by NoisyMime (his site is speeduino I think? the naming is all greek to me). I had the car running perfectly fine on the stock ecu and I checked timing and all that checked out. when I put the speeduino in the car roughly starts but won't pull good vacuum under idle. on stock, I get 34ish kpa at idle but on the speeduino, if it starts up, it only gets down to 65ish kpa. I have the vvt solenoid turned off and am not sure if it's timing related (because sometimes I get backfires out the intake when trying to start) or maybe iacv? I've tested the MAP sensor in the unit and it is fine. no vac leaks in engine bay that I can find either. NB2 has a separate IAT sensor from the MAF and I'm using that for now (have a gm one but want to wait until car is running well on speeduino to change it out). wideband is an AEM UEGO.
Where would you put the IAT sensor when the car is still N/A? Or heat soak only matters much if its turbo?
I haven’t done lots of testing to figure out where the best spot NA would be, but I placed mine roughly where the stock MAF sat which worked alright but I didn’t have it there for a long time. It’ll still matter NA, and you can still have idle issues and issues while driving if you put it somewhere that it’ll get much hotter than the actual air entering your engine. Hopefully someone who’s ran an NA car longer than I have can help!
What was the speedyefi issue?
They had a small number of boards made last fall that were manufactured with a faulty 5V regulator, the issue has long since been resolved!
One question I have as a newbie in the middle of my turbo build(Havent started tuning it), when running an internal wastegate turbo(In my case a gt2554r) Should I set my boost amount to the same as the amount as the rating of the wastegate? Thanks Cash!
That’s a good question! The rating on the wastegate actuator is the lowest boost you can run without modifying it to open easier. The boost level you might be thinking of setting in your software is really a boost cut, which cuts the engine if it makes more boost than you’re trying to run. This should be set just slightly higher than the target boost you’re trying to run. Unless you have electronic boost control, you’ll end up making about the PSI that the actuator is rated at. I hope this helps!
@@CashedOutCars Yes this helps a ton, this will be very useful, thank you again!
im in the middle of my turbo build right now. I had the IAT sensor in the piping after the intake before the turbo right now, should it be there?
You want the sensor in a location that will accurately reflect the air temp going into the engine, if it’s before the turbo it’ll likely read incorrectly since the air heats up while it’s compressed and then cools in the intercooler. Somewhere on the cold side of the intercooler or in the piping just after it, but not in a location that’ll heat soak, is the best spot. Let me know if you have more questions!
Any tips for tuning startup with speedyefi? Been having trouble with it
That's something I still need to dial in and will likely pay someone to do it so I can learn from them. Then I'd post what I learned here. Right now I need to give my car some throttle while cranking and it starts right up, but I'd like to get it to the point where it starts like stock
Same exact issue here
More cranking fuel. I had the same problem, but I turned the fuel up to like 300% when cranking and now it starts pretty much instantly
I’ll have to give that a shot! I would have thought it was the opposite since open throttle means more air to make a more lean mixture, but I’m learning along with you guys and reporting out once I figure out good solutions. Thanks!
@@CashedOutCars I had the same thought process, I tried giving it less fuel (like 100% cranking enrichment) and it didn't change anything. Then I tried giving it heaps more fuel and it worked. It still needs dialing in but it starts within 3 seconds now and needs only 1 turn of the key.
Where did you end up mounting your ecu ?
It may or may not still be in the footwell... Once I get a diff and pull the car out to work on it again I'll be buttoning stuff up!
@@CashedOutCars nice I’m still trying to figure out where the heck to put the thing lol 😂 any ideas ?
Hahahah I’ve been told by the speedyefi guys that it should fit in the stock location, I might try that and leave the tuning cable hooked up. If not the glovebox might be an option, or mounted to the side of the passenger compartment footwell
I bought the #speedyefi for my miata nb1. What turbo should I go with for being on a budget but good power gains?
That'll depend on your power goals! I'd go with a relatively small ebay turbo that matches your manifold. I was considering making a video on turbo sizing!
Do you still have ac
Yes I do
Are you on Facebook or Instagram?
I am on both but I'm most active on here!
Thanks for the info.
you're welcome!