How To Restore Headlights - wet sanding and ceramic coating
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Ever wondered how you'd go about restoring your cloudy headlights? Let me show you the step by step approach I take.
Here's all the products I've used:
- Feynlab Pure Rinseless - bit.ly/3zItp8P
- Gyeon applicator block - tinyurl.com/29...
- Masking tape - tinyurl.com/2p...
- Rupes xCut sanding discs - tinyurl.com/2p...
- In2Detailing DA12 3" polisher - bit.ly/3p0KKrJ
- In2Detailing DA8 polisher - bit.ly/44j04jS
- Infinity Wax Synergy 2 - bit.ly/3N0JQns
- In2Detailing 350gsm Ultra Plush Korean microfibre towel - bit.ly/40RXi23
- Koch Chemie H9.02 - bit.ly/3ZwJyKv
- Rupes Yellow Wool - bit.ly/3vUYk05
- Scholl S20 Black - bit.ly/3IHV6om
- Rupes Yellow Foam - tinyurl.com/3p...
Just wondering, if this process would work on a 2019 VW polo headlights? I think they are some grade of polycarbonate ??
Professionally, I would take the same approach on all headlights unless they are glass - which is few and far between.
Lovely job, you made it look easy and it should give us mere mortals some confidence.
My main concern is the yellowing returning due to UV, how long before they need doing again?
The yellowing will definitely return over time, but it won't be quite as murky as this was because I've removed the deteriorated UV protection from it. I'd say you'd easily get a couple of years out of this, which is why I don't go too hard with a 400 grit paper to start, because you want plenty of plastic left so you can do it again and again. If you paint them with clear then you'll easily get 5 years plus, but it needs to be 2k clear...and tbh if you're doing it I'd say it's easiest to take the lights out rather than painting in situ.
Thanks again Adrian for another very detailed video.
This is my next project 👍
Let me know how you get on. I think it seems scarier to people than it is in practice. Hopefully this shows you that it isn't so bad 👍
Brilliant video Adrian I got away with a two stage polish on that black Mazda I did 👍🏻
Thanks dad! I have to say, when you can just polish them it is a huge time saver. People think you aren't doing it right when you don't wet sand, but really the wet sanding is just taking off the coating that's discoloured, I think these would now be maintained just with a polish every year.
I'm just waiting for the weather to improve to do this to my recently bought BMW Z4. I did buy the 3m drill kit just for quickness and cheapness, and I already have a ceramic coating
Excellent! I know what you mean about the weather hampering things at the moment, it's dire, especially for jobs like this.
Thanks for replying to my last message. One last question, my headlights are glass do you use sandpaper on glass?
Oh now that's an interesting question. You can, yes, it may take longer and you may need to use a Rayon pad with CeriGlass as the polish. I'd suggest doing some specific research on polishing glass headlights as I've not personally done any before so I am talking purely from a theoretical standpoint here. I've polished windscreens before (limited success) with the ceri glass.
A very good video bud, I do love me a good headlight restoration, 👌🏻
Property satisfying aren't they? Especially when they're like this and nearing an MOT failure.
Great video mate 👏👏. I'm definitely putting this one into my library for future reference. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything clearly 👍👍
You're welcome darling, thanks for the continued support!
Do you apply the ceramic coating and then wipe it off?
You do, yes, you leave it for a bit of time until it flashes, then you level it and buff it.
Did the lights on mine recently but only used Rupes heavy cut (Blue) compund and their Blue wool pad, then finished with Rupes Finishing (White) and their White foam pad. Not sure if that combo was heavy enough to remove the UV coating but I haven’t used a ceramic or any other coating on the lens. Don’t know about those 986 Boxsters but the 997 headlights pop out with the special tool. That would save you time taping up but then you need to secure the lens while polishing. Swings & roundabouts I guess. Great job on them though. 👍🏾
You may well have gotten through that costing with a heavy cut pad and polish, but even if you haven't, you have managed to improve the clarity, and that's important.
I hadn't realised the lights could pop out here...that could have been useful, but as you said, it might be difficult to work on afterwards. Hmmmm!
Yeah, here you go. Same as the 997 & probably 987 too. ruclips.net/video/D65x8G1f6AI/видео.html I'll probably do the headlights again at some point TBH but go through the sanding stages you've done here as there were still quite a few deep scratches & marring the compound could'nt improve but I'll ceramic coat them after this time. Would Garage Therapy's Hades Wheel Ceramic do the job? Guessing it's a harder ceramic than what they have for bodywork?
Would I get away using a da6 on 5” backing?
Personally I wouldn't run that risk, I'd do it by hand rather than using the big discs. That's more for paintwork.
@@SuperchargedLlama appreciate that, what about the final polish? By hand again, can you fit a smaller backing plate on a das6? New to it all so trying to sponge as much info as possible
@@readyshreddygo4903 I reckon you could safely polish with the big pads, they're far less aggressive (you'd have a mare doing it by hand). Alternatively the polish pads you can attach to the drills can also help (they're 3").
@@SuperchargedLlama well my das 6 pro just arrived and it came with a 3” backing plate as an extra! So thats a winner
@@readyshreddygo4903 ah yes, that's the new one that is just like the DA8 I think, that'll work nicely!
Great video and really informative. Keep up the great work 😁
Thank you for the continued support darling.
Very impressive results and it's good to see the rotary getting a run out.
I really want to get to grips with the rotary. I think a scrap panel might be in order.
Good video darling lol
😘 you are welcome darling. Thanks for watching and letting me know you enjoy it.
Fan blooming tastic 😊
Thanks as always!
Interesting starting point. When I find lights like these with zero factory coating I always start with P800 grit and then 1000, 3000 polish seal.
However I find that starting with 1,000 on some manufacturers such as Toyotas that are in this type of condition would benefit. Sometimes even the light 800 grit sanding can be a bit tedious to remove fully and takes some time.
Agreed, that's particularly why I use the X-Cut discs on the 3" DA because it takes a lot of the physical effort out of it.
@@SuperchargedLlama Nice. I worked on an Avalon today and started with 1,000 grit. Worked great. I use hex pads from chemical guys. Pretty decent pads. I’ll have to look in to the one you mentioned some time.
Great video.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to let me know you enjoyed it. It's really motivating to get comments, good or bad, so I appreciate you taking the time.