I love the restoration kits. I got one from Amazon, did an outstanding job. 3 years later, yes it’s a tad less clear but wash and go and it’s clear again
I use the Meguiar's Heavy Duty restoration kit and I've had no complaints with the results. The only real problem with the kit is that there's not enough top coat for larger headlights - other than that it's fine.
Best/cheapest "home remedy fix" I've found is Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. Takes about 2 min w/no elbow grease. It's freaky fast. Costs about 9-10 bucks. Agree with you on importance of adding a UV protection. I just apply a coat of wax over lenses when finished. Amazon sells a spray bottle UV protectant (orange and white bottle) but it costs about 30 bucks. 2nd method - buy wet sandpaper, use lots of water then rubbing compound and wax...longer and more elbow grease but cheap.
You realize that the Polycarbonate headlight covers come with U.V. protectant that is all through the plastic not just on the surface...right? There is no need to re-coat them, because all that will happen is the protectant you put on will go yellow and hazy. There is no substitute for wet sanding by hand with a back-up pad starting with about 1500 and then working up to 3000, and then polishing with the correct polycarbonate polish...and then leave them alone. All the automotive repair companies want to do is sell you more product so they can establish an umbilical cord straight to your wallet.
@@markanthony3275 No, I didn't know polycarbonate headlight covers come with UV protectant all through the plastic. Shit. Thanks man. RUclips's not totally worthless.
I restored the headlights on my 2010 Chevy Silverado a few years ago before someone hit me and totaled it, and one of the things to realize it that it is the clear coat that is getting foggy! I used some 400 grit and 1500 grit sand paper to strip mine and a two part epoxy clear coat, and it worked out great. A regular clear coat may work for a short time but the life of it wont last as long as a two part epoxy clear coat. Eastwood 2K epoxy clear coat is the one I used. I've seen the Primers used as well as the paint on some of the off road vehicles when they build their racks etc. and it really is a great brand. I think it's like 40 dollars for a can of it. You have 24 hours after opening the can and mixing it to use it before it becomes useless. I used it 12 hours the following day to put a second coat on my headlights after using the 1500 sand grit paper to knock off any particles from the surface. They looked better than new with a nice finish!
I wet sanded the car lenses down from 600 to 12,000 grit and then put on a relatively thick coat of spray clear gloss polyurethane, and it's perfect! Looks like new. I tried to put an additional coat of polyurethane on one lens, but for some reason it fogged up a little bit, so I had to use acetone to remove the second coat of polyurethane, then sanded from 1000 back to 12,000 grit and it's perfect. Only put one coat of polyurethane on the lens!!
Sounds good. I had done a few different cars this way: Wetsand from 800, 1500, 4000grit. Use clearcoat paint in a can. Wet sand to 4k again. Use buffer with buffing lotion. 👌
😊 if you're not wet sanding and buffing, you're wasting your time. That oil makes it look nice until you wash it. Then you're right back to square one.
I have also used the 3M kit, as well as several others. Most kits that include the assorted grits of sand paper and a sealer seem to all work about the same. The key is following the instructions when sanding without getting the lens hot, and sealing them. If your lights are really fogged or yellowed bad, you will see an improvement, but it doesn't always last for longer than a year or two before they go back to tarnished again. Taking a layer off of the lens is what removes the damage, sealing then keeps them protected. I guess for whatever the cost is these days of the better rated kits is worth it if you want to see better at night.
Great comparison! I’m thinking if you already had 500 to 3k grit, you’d only need the sealant. But the kit is almost certainly cheaper than buying everything individually. I just happen to have those grits left over from a bumper restoration I did a few years back.
with my own experience when I sanded the clear coat off of my headlights, I used the 400 grit till I was sure I had all the clear coat removed with the sandpaper before going to the 1500 grit. I had 2000 grit I used on mine as I remember back, but I don't think it's necessary to used anything but the 400 grit! The important thing is to make sure to remove all the old clear coat from the headlight and clean the surface well when you spray on the two part epoxy clear coat; I used Eastwood 2k Epoxy clear coat, which I was perfectly happy with and left my headlight lens crystal clear! The important part is to be sure to sand off and remove all the old clear coat from the headlight lens! This is the most important part; the second most important part is cleaning the surface well before applying the clear coat. I done mine parked outside on a calm day without much wind. I used some 2000 grit to knock off any debris that got on it over night and used the remainder of the clear coat before my 24 hour deadline to touch up where I used the 2000 grit to clean up any small debris on the lens, and I was finished! I don't really know anything about 3M's coating they have but I saw some bad feedback on people that have used it. Personally, if I were to do another vehicle, I would use Eastwood again because I know it's a great product. I don't hear as much about it lately, but it's a great option that a paint and body guy recommended and I've seen others use. Eastwood has an epoxy primer that is great if you had to sand your vehicle down to bare metal; because you can cover metal and paint on top of it with professional results for an inexpensive means to restore and old car's paint job that has the clear coat pealing on it! Just an FYI
I kept wondering if the glass stovetop cleaner would work on the headlights plastic. Googled, and, others said it works, so gave it a try. I had already cleaned the headlights, so, put the solution on and rubbed it in with a rag. It took away the yellowness and most of the haziness. Rubbed in some wax and looks fine. I sprayed it with a hose, afterwards, which was stupid, because now I have spots of wax on the hood. Was very easy and quick. Good enough for me.
☝️🤓 Fun Fact: Baking soda mixed with ANY acid makes a powerful looking foam, but is ineffective. Acids and alkali simply neutralize one another and the foam is just CO2 bubbles. The best one can hope for is the baking soda and vinegar combination to form sodium acetate, which though a worthless cleaner, is used to flavor yummy salt & vinegar potato chips.
I use 1200 grit wet or dry to wet sand out the yellowness pretty fast, using a soft block and spray bottle to keep it wet. Then to polish out the scratches from the sandpaper I use a folded up cotton rag (old shirt) and toothpaste, I really lean in, pressure and speed are the tricks to not having to do it forever. For a final polish I use a polishing compound and a little electric lambs wool buffer that brings them up like new. The I hit it with a UV Protectant automotive plastic protector, applied a few times and buffed in. Goof for about a year, then it needs another "final" polish and reapplied protectant. The yellowing is pretty much sunburn in the plastic, it's UV damage.
with the baking soda, I would say using vinegar with the mother in it would produce more cleaning power. It definitely is great for an organic cleaning agent for the plumbing in your home! It really foams up when you mix them together. I've used it on my tub drain and saw it lift a lot of the grime in the drain, so it does have cleaning properties but not the kind you need to smooth the clear coat on the head light lenses!
Wet sanded down to 800 then coat with UV clear paint. Still good. ETA: if you are clear coating you don't need to go super fine, the paint will fill tiny voids.
Its the clear coat that goes bad you have to remove the clear coat. I use acetone and a rag to re move the clear coat DO NOT GET AECTONE ON THE PAINT tape around the edge of the headlight or remove the light housing off the vehicle. Put some acetone on a rag and remove the clear coat on the lens then wipe it clean. then get a spray can of clear coat paint sprat the lens let dry and your done.
Toothpaste (or bicarbonate of soda) using sandpapers going down to ~2500 grit. You use sanding discs with a drill for the 3M, but a ridiculous sponge for toothpase or bicarbonate of soda. The UV protection is important though.
Great comparisons @BudgetMechanicHawaii ! The kit is definitely the way to go for DIY. Everything else is just a gimmick. Like he said, the only way is to remove the damaged layer. The 3M kit is probably the best, that or the Sylvania kit. And yes, the UV protectant/sealant is a must. However, the wipes are okay. The Meguiars spray is the best. Only thing I’ll disagree with is the advice to buy a bunch of wipes and reapply each year. You can’t just put the sealant over top another layer of sealant. Trust on this. Better off letting them get to the point where you do the whole process again. But if you wax them regularly and avoid machine car washes, they’ll last another 4-6 years before needing to be restored again. Great video!
@@deadraider420 no, you don't need to buff off, I suggest you a 2 steps, 1st - just apply that mag polish all around the headlight, wait for 3 minutes and then start to clear off with a rough paper towel and 2nd apply again wait 3 minutes and wipe off with soft microfiber towel, that's it. Done this on my 20 yrs old car, worked great...
Do bother buying it! It will work a tiny bit and you will see a slight improvement but nothing even close to a full restoration with sanding, buffing and spraying new clear coat. Sanding and new clear is the best way to get ur lights back to 100%
@@Pitbully23well it does work for fairly light oxidation, I actually use it on my 20yrs Mazda headlights and cleared it very well without any extra effort, but do agree if the headlight is really foggy, sending is a must to restore it...✌️
Very good video. Most kits will work best. There is an automotive clear coat shown on video's that tends to cost a little more,but results look to last much longer. 800-3000 grit? Huge jump.
That’s what I thought when I first heard of this too! The 3000 that comes from 3M in this kit is not any reg 3000. It is a 3000 Trizact and can manage that jump. It’s what I use in every headlight restoration job.
I wouldn't start finer than about 1500 grit...even 1200 will leave ruts in the polycarbonate that will be hard to sand out. You have to realize that the people selling these products and using them do not know anything about wet sanding and polishing.
That's what I thought when I first heard of this too! The 3000 that comes from 3M in this kit is not any reg 3000. It is a 3000 Trizact and can manage that jump. It's what I use in every headlight restoration job.
The best kit I've used so far is the Sylvania headlight restoration kit for $20 on Amazon. The final stage of the kit is the UV seal which is the icing on the cake.
mothers rubbing compound and the mothers mag and chrome polish, no sanding took less than 10 minutes each light. I have a 2005 tundra, first clean in 19 years, besides a car wash.
I got Maguires headlight spray and just spray that on each year to keep lights from losing their uv protection and car is 8 years old headlights are like new
sounds like a nice idea just to reapply the 3M sealer once a year, but, no matter what, you will have to do some sanding because of all the debris and bugs that will hit them driving on the highway or going to the grocery store. I would spend the 40 dollars on a good Eastwood 2k epoxy clear coat and it will last longer than the original coating, in my opinion. You can't buy a new headlight for less than 150 to 200 dollars anymore, so you end up spending 300 to 400 dollars on new headlights verses 100 dollars on the clear coat and sand paper and a cheap buffer/sander from Auto Zone or Walmart! You need something that will stand up against the rain and snow and heat and cold and everything thrown at it driving down the road. It's never as easy as reapplying a sealer once a year like your antifreeze or and oil change. just my opinion anyway. I remember how good my headlights looked after 3 years before my truck was totaled by some guy pulling out of a private drive, and they still looked new after 3 years, and experience is better than speculation that some company is giving you accurate information. I've heard not so good reports on the 3M. My personal experience with Eastwood 2K epoxy clear coat is great. Definitely would be my choice again after my experience with it and seeing so many other good testimony of their product from others!
A good quality rubbing compound (3M or Turtle Wax are good) and a little elbow grease with a soft cloth (or a power tool with a buffing wheel) will give you great results with minimal effort for dirt cheap.
I use a polishing pad/firm sponge that attaches to a drill and use polishing compound and then polish (fine and then very fine abrasive characteristics) and it comes out looking like new in about 5-10 minutes per headlight. I never bother applying any sealer. Good for 6 months and then touch up as needed. I think the box kits are a waste of money.
As far as the WD-40 goes I it’s have a few thoughts: •it is essentially an oil of sorts but designed for water displacement •the shine it can provide is extremely limited and would need to be redone often •it has no abrasive properties so you’re limited in scratch removal to whatever thing you’re using to apply it, not the fluid itself •the only feasible upside? The displacement of water which in my opinion has no real advantage concerning headlights If I’m wrong about something or I missed something, I’m 100% open to criticism.
I just recently did mine with the 3m kit and I avoid pointing the pressure washer directly at the headlight I just let the water from the hood run down and wash it like normal so I don’t run the risk of removing the clear coat with the high psi from the power washer
Need a remedy to remove heavily bakes in watermarks on windshield and windows. New to the channel, have not scrolled yet but I'll check in case you have one.
I wish you good luck trying to get that masking tape off now that you have wet it with water jewelers rouge, will buff to a clear finish.. then seal it with clearcoat
hello, my nissan sentra makes some kind of small rattling cricket sound on initial acceleration on low rpm, sounds like metal tin cans rubbing each other and goes away with speed, i checked heat shield , timing chain belt, all looks good and intact, i'm doing extensive research on internet , some say fuel line return and so on, but i couldn't figure out what's wrong with it. wheel bearings all good, No rust underneath car . Any ideas will be appreciated.
Worn out Piston Rings is my guess according to your description of sounds coming only during acceleration. Give some accelerator to the standing car in neutral gear, if blue/white smoke comes from exhaust then surely it is piston rings that means your car has compression leak and burning up engine oil aswell. A further cross check is reduction of engine oil as indicated on dip stick of engine oil. If not then it must be another issue!!
@@user-pq8gy2ci2t .. hi any idea what could cause a large bang sound when I back up in my Nissan Sentra (69,000 miles)? It sounds like I hit something! And it usually only happens once when backing out ( straight) THANK YOU
@@sisterbecky411 .. hi.. happened exactly with my Honda City... When I used to back up, the car made a loud noise. But I could figure out it came from rear wheels. The rear brake shoes were worn out and they got loose and stuck while reversing somehow. Long story short , change of rear wheel brake shoes and a change of handbrake cable solved it. Get someone sit at rear seat to identify if the sound comes from rear? If yes, get the rear brakes checked..
@@sisterbecky411 i hear this sound every time when engine start going D or R mode in very low speed, the owner manual states- "Self-test feature: The ABS includes electronic sensors, electric pumps, hydraulic solenoids and a computer. The computer has a built-in diagnostic feature that tests the system each time you start the engine and move the vehicle at a low speed in forward or reverse. When the self-test occurs, you may hear a “clunk” noise and/or feel a pulsation in the brake pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a malfunction. If the computer senses a malfunction, it switches the ABS off and illuminates the ABS warning light on the instrument panel. The brake system then operates normally, but without anti-lock assistance"
Also the fact that they are way more durable. Do you remember how often they’d break? Plus heavier. But you’re right though, the polycarbonate lenses are also cheaper to manufacture now 👍🏼
Yes plastic head lamps are made from polycarbonate and is porous. So contamination and oxidation occurs over time. So when you heat acetone the fumes from the acetone soften polycarbonate allowing the pores to close tightly . Of course you have to resurface badly neglected lamps but once you do you can seal up with acetone fumes and will look factory if done correctly. Remove lamp where when possible . I use red bull can 3 ounces of acetone and a pare of vicegrips and heat gun set on low. Care must be taken not to boil and splash acetone directly on lamp there is a sweet spot per say" where fumes are released". A small funnel help with this. My advice is to practice on a used head lamp . Hope this helps. And of course you my find another practice with this method you are more comfortable with.
First thought ... All plastic headlights are not made of the same plastic. Nobody seems to address this thoroughly. This is why some get good or bad results I think with any of these methods. Removing top coat protection is one thing. Sanding micro cracks and pitting in plastic till smooth is another. Plastic actually yellowing from clear to yellow because of age or sun damage happens. At some point maybe not repairable and new units are necessary. Also chemicals do soften and melt plastics and paint, Be mindful of that fact. Everyone has a video ... We need one that covers all the facts ... We need more facts. Thanks for posting though.
They have no topcoat protection, any protectant is all through the plastic. What happens is grit from the act of driving gets on your headlights and every time you wash your car, the grit micro-sands the lens, same as your vehicles paint!. The more the lens gets micro-sanded, the more grip there is for even more grit, until your lens starts to haze and get cloudy. Any colouration of the lens is not the result of the lens turning colour from the sun, it is because the micro sanding has allowed chemical pollutants to get a grip on the surface of your headlights. To solve the problem satisfactorily, one needs to wet sand the polycarbonate with about 1500 grit to start, and then 2000 and then 2500 and finish with 3000. Then the lens is ready for machine polishing with the correct polycarbonate polish. Then, you just leave it alone and don't coat it with U.V. snake oil, or sealant, or anything, because anything you coat it with will also haze and yellow...and then you'll be back to square one and the product companies will have you on the treadmill right where they want you .
This was a bright idea
Thank you for not adding music while you were talking
I used that same 3m kit. I was very pleased with the results on my 2010 rav4.
I love the restoration kits. I got one from Amazon, did an outstanding job. 3 years later, yes it’s a tad less clear but wash and go and it’s clear again
I use the Meguiar's Heavy Duty restoration kit and I've had no complaints with the results. The only real problem with the kit is that there's not enough top coat for larger headlights - other than that it's fine.
Try Adam's results are even better compared to meguire.
Nicely done, fun & informative to watch!
Best/cheapest "home remedy fix" I've found is Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. Takes about 2 min w/no elbow grease. It's freaky fast. Costs about 9-10 bucks. Agree with you on importance of adding a UV protection. I just apply a coat of wax over lenses when finished. Amazon sells a spray bottle UV protectant (orange and white bottle) but it costs about 30 bucks.
2nd method - buy wet sandpaper, use lots of water then rubbing compound and wax...longer and more elbow grease but cheap.
I'm doing method 2, just waiting on this heat wave to end
You realize that the Polycarbonate headlight covers come with U.V. protectant that is all through the plastic not just on the surface...right? There is no need to re-coat them, because all that will happen is the protectant you put on will go yellow and hazy. There is no substitute for wet sanding by hand with a back-up pad starting with about 1500 and then working up to 3000, and then polishing with the correct polycarbonate polish...and then leave them alone. All the automotive repair companies want to do is sell you more product so they can establish an umbilical cord straight to your wallet.
@@markanthony3275 No, I didn't know polycarbonate headlight covers come with UV protectant all through the plastic. Shit. Thanks man. RUclips's not totally worthless.
@@markanthony3275 "with the correct polycarbonate polish"
what's the correct polish?
I restored the headlights on my 2010 Chevy Silverado a few years ago before someone hit me and totaled it, and one of the things to realize it that it is the clear coat that is getting foggy! I used some 400 grit and 1500 grit sand paper to strip mine and a two part epoxy clear coat, and it worked out great. A regular clear coat may work for a short time but the life of it wont last as long as a two part epoxy clear coat. Eastwood 2K epoxy clear coat is the one I used. I've seen the Primers used as well as the paint on some of the off road vehicles when they build their racks etc. and it really is a great brand. I think it's like 40 dollars for a can of it. You have 24 hours after opening the can and mixing it to use it before it becomes useless. I used it 12 hours the following day to put a second coat on my headlights after using the 1500 sand grit paper to knock off any particles from the surface. They looked better than new with a nice finish!
I wet sanded the car lenses down from 600 to 12,000 grit and then put on a relatively thick coat of spray clear gloss polyurethane, and it's perfect! Looks like new. I tried to put an additional coat of polyurethane on one lens, but for some reason it fogged up a little bit, so I had to use acetone to remove the second coat of polyurethane, then sanded from 1000 back to 12,000 grit and it's perfect. Only put one coat of polyurethane on the lens!!
Sounds good. I had done a few different cars this way:
Wetsand from 800, 1500, 4000grit. Use clearcoat paint in a can. Wet sand to 4k again. Use buffer with buffing lotion. 👌
😊 if you're not wet sanding and buffing, you're wasting your time. That oil makes it look nice until you wash it. Then you're right back to square one.
You're right, just a temporarily and quick solution by skipping sanding and buffing.
I have also used the 3M kit, as well as several others. Most kits that include the assorted grits of sand paper and a sealer seem to all work about the same. The key is following the instructions when sanding without getting the lens hot, and sealing them. If your lights are really fogged or yellowed bad, you will see an improvement, but it doesn't always last for longer than a year or two before they go back to tarnished again. Taking a layer off of the lens is what removes the damage, sealing then keeps them protected. I guess for whatever the cost is these days of the better rated kits is worth it if you want to see better at night.
Great comparison! I’m thinking if you already had 500 to 3k grit, you’d only need the sealant. But the kit is almost certainly cheaper than buying everything individually. I just happen to have those grits left over from a bumper restoration I did a few years back.
with my own experience when I sanded the clear coat off of my headlights, I used the 400 grit till I was sure I had all the clear coat removed with the sandpaper before going to the 1500 grit. I had 2000 grit I used on mine as I remember back, but I don't think it's necessary to used anything but the 400 grit! The important thing is to make sure to remove all the old clear coat from the headlight and clean the surface well when you spray on the two part epoxy clear coat; I used Eastwood 2k Epoxy clear coat, which I was perfectly happy with and left my headlight lens crystal clear!
The important part is to be sure to sand off and remove all the old clear coat from the headlight lens! This is the most important part; the second most important part is cleaning the surface well before applying the clear coat. I done mine parked outside on a calm day without much wind. I used some 2000 grit to knock off any debris that got on it over night and used the remainder of the clear coat before my 24 hour deadline to touch up where I used the 2000 grit to clean up any small debris on the lens, and I was finished!
I don't really know anything about 3M's coating they have but I saw some bad feedback on people that have used it. Personally, if I were to do another vehicle, I would use Eastwood again because I know it's a great product. I don't hear as much about it lately, but it's a great option that a paint and body guy recommended and I've seen others use.
Eastwood has an epoxy primer that is great if you had to sand your vehicle down to bare metal; because you can cover metal and paint on top of it with professional results for an inexpensive means to restore and old car's paint job that has the clear coat pealing on it! Just an FYI
I kept wondering if the glass stovetop cleaner would work on the headlights plastic. Googled, and, others said it works, so gave it a try. I had already cleaned the headlights, so, put the solution on and rubbed it in with a rag. It took away the yellowness and most of the haziness. Rubbed in some wax and looks fine. I sprayed it with a hose, afterwards, which was stupid, because now I have spots of wax on the hood.
Was very easy and quick. Good enough for me.
☝️🤓 Fun Fact: Baking soda mixed with ANY acid makes a powerful looking foam, but is ineffective. Acids and alkali simply neutralize one another and the foam is just CO2 bubbles. The best one can hope for is the baking soda and vinegar combination to form sodium acetate, which though a worthless cleaner, is used to flavor yummy salt & vinegar potato chips.
mmm...I could use me some S&V chips!
The wipes are £85.00 for 40 in the UK 🇬🇧 we are always ripped off here
Jay
Great comparison video! Thanks!!
Clear and comprehensive 👍
I use 1200 grit wet or dry to wet sand out the yellowness pretty fast, using a soft block and spray bottle to keep it wet. Then to polish out the scratches from the sandpaper I use a folded up cotton rag (old shirt) and toothpaste, I really lean in, pressure and speed are the tricks to not having to do it forever. For a final polish I use a polishing compound and a little electric lambs wool buffer that brings them up like new. The I hit it with a UV Protectant automotive plastic protector, applied a few times and buffed in. Goof for about a year, then it needs another "final" polish and reapplied protectant. The yellowing is pretty much sunburn in the plastic, it's UV damage.
This is great advice, thanks for sharing your knowledge Budget mechanic.
They came out GREAT for 15 buckaroos. Thank You for the tip. Definitely gonna try it👍💯👍💯🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Perfect timing man, I was just searching for methods yesterday but there are so many
with the baking soda, I would say using vinegar with the mother in it would produce more cleaning power. It definitely is great for an organic cleaning agent for the plumbing in your home! It really foams up when you mix them together. I've used it on my tub drain and saw it lift a lot of the grime in the drain, so it does have cleaning properties but not the kind you need to smooth the clear coat on the head light lenses!
Wet sanded down to 800 then coat with UV clear paint. Still good. ETA: if you are clear coating you don't need to go super fine, the paint will fill tiny voids.
Its the clear coat that goes bad you have to remove the clear coat. I use acetone and a rag to re move the clear coat DO NOT GET AECTONE ON THE PAINT tape around the edge of the headlight or remove the light housing off the vehicle. Put some acetone on a rag and remove the clear coat on the lens then wipe it clean. then get a spray can of clear coat paint sprat the lens let dry and your done.
Toothpaste (or bicarbonate of soda) using sandpapers going down to ~2500 grit. You use sanding discs with a drill for the 3M, but a ridiculous sponge for toothpase or bicarbonate of soda. The UV protection is important though.
Great comparisons @BudgetMechanicHawaii !
The kit is definitely the way to go for DIY. Everything else is just a gimmick. Like he said, the only way is to remove the damaged layer. The 3M kit is probably the best, that or the Sylvania kit. And yes, the UV protectant/sealant is a must. However, the wipes are okay. The Meguiars spray is the best.
Only thing I’ll disagree with is the advice to buy a bunch of wipes and reapply each year. You can’t just put the sealant over top another layer of sealant. Trust on this. Better off letting them get to the point where you do the whole process again. But if you wax them regularly and avoid machine car washes, they’ll last another 4-6 years before needing to be restored again. Great video!
MOTHERS Mag Aluminum Polish works great to remove oxidation, try out ✌️
Thanks I will buy some to try 😃
Do ya got to buff it in ?
@@deadraider420 no, you don't need to buff off, I suggest you a 2 steps, 1st - just apply that mag polish all around the headlight, wait for 3 minutes and then start to clear off with a rough paper towel and 2nd apply again wait 3 minutes and wipe off with soft microfiber towel, that's it. Done this on my 20 yrs old car, worked great...
Do bother buying it! It will work a tiny bit and you will see a slight improvement but nothing even close to a full restoration with sanding, buffing and spraying new clear coat. Sanding and new clear is the best way to get ur lights back to 100%
@@Pitbully23well it does work for fairly light oxidation, I actually use it on my 20yrs Mazda headlights and cleared it very well without any extra effort, but do agree if the headlight is really foggy, sending is a must to restore it...✌️
Very good video. Most kits will work best. There is an automotive clear coat shown on video's that tends to cost a little more,but results look to last much longer. 800-3000 grit? Huge jump.
That’s what I thought when I first heard of this too! The 3000 that comes from 3M in this kit is not any reg 3000. It is a 3000 Trizact and can manage that jump. It’s what I use in every headlight restoration job.
800 grit straight to 3000 is absolutely a NO lol 😂
Idk why they did this in the kit .
Good job for what you used tho bro !! Love the page
I wouldn't start finer than about 1500 grit...even 1200 will leave ruts in the polycarbonate that will be hard to sand out. You have to realize that the people selling these products and using them do not know anything about wet sanding and polishing.
@@markanthony3275 yup basically .
That's what I thought when I first heard of this too! The 3000 that comes from 3M in this kit is not any reg 3000. It is a 3000 Trizact and can manage that jump. It's what I use in every headlight restoration job.
The best kit I've used so far is the Sylvania headlight restoration kit for $20 on Amazon. The final stage of the kit is the UV seal which is the icing on the cake.
I also like the lens conditioner that comes in that kit
Thank u for sharing your knowledge and experiments appreciated more videos to come ❤
Headlights weren’t very bad to begin with!
Common address the YELLOW😀.
thank you , very cool, will definitly try it.
I used a headlight restore kit to restore my Nissan 370z GT headlights, and it was very impressive total cost £15 here in England
Brasso worked for me so far been a month crystal clear. Will wait a while longer and check. But looks great
Brasso? Whoa !
@@HHG_BREEDINGGROUND1 Yep Crystal clear 6 weeks later.
@@grant2149.. UV coating?
@@sisterbecky411 No UV coating. Sofar going for 2 months still beautifull clear
@@grant2149 thank you for your reply! Now to figure out what Brasso is!! Lol!
Thanks. This was a fantastic video
mothers rubbing compound and the mothers mag and chrome polish, no sanding took less than 10 minutes each light. I have a 2005 tundra, first clean in 19 years, besides a car wash.
Meguiars plast x works great. If it’s heavy oxidation sand and polish
Yes the acidity from the orange. But why not just use dang tomato 🤷🏼♀️🤣 or paste with coke cola. Never saw that yet!
Fun way to get good info, thanks
I got Maguires headlight spray and just spray that on each year to keep lights from losing their uv protection and car is 8 years old headlights are like new
I have lots of success with JIFF cream cleanser use with a sponge pad on drill using slow speed with light pressure
Fine sandpaper,soapy water and 30 mins. Did my car a year ago and they still look new
sounds like a nice idea just to reapply the 3M sealer once a year, but, no matter what, you will have to do some sanding because of all the debris and bugs that will hit them driving on the highway or going to the grocery store. I would spend the 40 dollars on a good Eastwood 2k epoxy clear coat and it will last longer than the original coating, in my opinion. You can't buy a new headlight for less than 150 to 200 dollars anymore, so you end up spending 300 to 400 dollars on new headlights verses 100 dollars on the clear coat and sand paper and a cheap buffer/sander from Auto Zone or Walmart! You need something that will stand up against the rain and snow and heat and cold and everything thrown at it driving down the road.
It's never as easy as reapplying a sealer once a year like your antifreeze or and oil change.
just my opinion anyway. I remember how good my headlights looked after 3 years before my truck was totaled by some guy pulling out of a private drive, and they still looked new after 3 years, and experience is better than speculation that some company is giving you accurate information. I've heard not so good reports on the 3M. My personal experience with Eastwood 2K epoxy clear coat is great. Definitely would be my choice again after my experience with it and seeing so many other good testimony of their product from others!
A good quality rubbing compound (3M or Turtle Wax are good) and a little elbow grease with a soft cloth (or a power tool with a buffing wheel) will give you great results with minimal effort for dirt cheap.
Appreciate this video very much. Will definitely try a restoration kit and the wipes.
Great presentation ...
I’m in Canada. Amazon store in Canada prices the kit at $29.90 and the 40 pack sealers at $96.33.
😮 holy crap! That's a rip off!!
@@Nursie Sure is. Oh well.
The only positive i got from the toothpaste method was that it got rid of the yellowing.
But ya. Gonna get a kit.
I've heard of oxidation but never heard of "oxidization" before
Wet sand. Tac. Clear base coat. Clear finishing coat.
Thanks for the video, one kit per lense ?
I clear coat them(spray), wetsand, and buff.
No getting rid of glass headlights was a cost saving move only. Glass is MUCH more durable
Lol, glass breaks far easier, it covers the roadways in hard to clean up debris, it weighs more, and it costs more.
Other than they broke far easier
Make it cheaper to change you more for poor quality
Wrong, glass has much more tinsel strength than acrylamide (plastic)@@Slking507
Toothpaste works well to polish brass. Paste only, not the gel kind.
Yes please a video on Replacing a Master Cylinder 😝👍 Cheers from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🕺🥤
Good heads up
I use a polishing pad/firm sponge that attaches to a drill and use polishing compound and then polish (fine and then very fine abrasive characteristics) and it comes out looking like new in about 5-10 minutes per headlight. I never bother applying any sealer. Good for 6 months and then touch up as needed. I think the box kits are a waste of money.
You are awesome guy I learned a lots from your videos Thanks 🙏🏼
Do you have a cat garage in the Toronto area!
As far as the WD-40 goes I it’s have a few thoughts:
•it is essentially an oil of sorts but designed for water displacement
•the shine it can provide is extremely limited and would need to be redone often
•it has no abrasive properties so you’re limited in scratch removal to whatever thing you’re using to apply it, not the fluid itself
•the only feasible upside? The displacement of water which in my opinion has no real advantage concerning headlights
If I’m wrong about something or I missed something, I’m 100% open to criticism.
You forgot to mention that it stinks !...an is misused by 99% of people.
Will the clear coat standup to power washing?
I just recently did mine with the 3m kit and I avoid pointing the pressure washer directly at the headlight I just let the water from the hood run down and wash it like normal so I don’t run the risk of removing the clear coat with the high psi from the power washer
Need a remedy to remove heavily bakes in watermarks on windshield and windows. New to the channel, have not scrolled yet but I'll check in case you have one.
Hey handsome. Arm and hammer toothpaste works pretty good
I tried a product called , Beyond Clay. My headlights are now like NEW. Before that i tried a restore kit that did nothing.
Get Mother Mag and Aluminum polish
use a torch heat the plastic with direct flame and be done.
Did you try T-Cut?
Mothers Mag Polish works
For the toothpaste test you might try baking soda toothpaste.
Basically you thinned the headlight by shaving it down. Which makes it more prone to cracking down the road.
with some sand paper.
youll be ok, i promise
Nah. Works all the time
We called them "headlights cataract"
😂
I wish you good luck trying to get that masking tape off now that you have wet it with water
jewelers rouge, will buff to a clear finish.. then seal it with clearcoat
Thank you sir 😮😅😊
The tooth pase would work better if it was on a buffer. That brush isn't doing jack. Same with baking soda/orange. Mix it and use on a buffer.
Baking soda made into a paste with a little muscle and it worked...
You forgot the "Off" method...
("Oxidisation"-too funny) Hey, if you can't find the right word, create your own! 😂)
The word is correct...as is Aluminum in the USA.
Try Peek paste. It's cheap and works.
Sand buff and clear. Only way to fix this
bravo
hello, my nissan sentra makes some kind of small rattling cricket sound on initial acceleration on low rpm, sounds like metal tin cans rubbing each other and goes away with speed, i checked heat shield , timing chain belt, all looks good and intact, i'm doing extensive research on internet , some say fuel line return and so on, but i couldn't figure out what's wrong with it. wheel bearings all good, No rust underneath car . Any ideas will be appreciated.
Worn out Piston Rings is my guess according to your description of sounds coming only during acceleration. Give some accelerator to the standing car in neutral gear, if blue/white smoke comes from exhaust then surely it is piston rings that means your car has compression leak and burning up engine oil aswell. A further cross check is reduction of engine oil as indicated on dip stick of engine oil. If not then it must be another issue!!
@@user-pq8gy2ci2t .. hi any idea what could cause a large bang sound when I back up in my Nissan Sentra (69,000 miles)? It sounds like I hit something! And it usually only happens once when backing out ( straight) THANK YOU
@@sisterbecky411 .. hi.. happened exactly with my Honda City... When I used to back up, the car made a loud noise. But I could figure out it came from rear wheels. The rear brake shoes were worn out and they got loose and stuck while reversing somehow. Long story short , change of rear wheel brake shoes and a change of handbrake cable solved it. Get someone sit at rear seat to identify if the sound comes from rear? If yes, get the rear brakes checked..
@@sisterbecky411 i hear this sound every time when engine start going D or R mode in very low speed, the owner manual states- "Self-test feature:
The ABS includes electronic sensors, electric
pumps, hydraulic solenoids and a computer. The
computer has a built-in diagnostic feature that
tests the system each time you start the engine
and move the vehicle at a low speed in forward or
reverse. When the self-test occurs, you may hear
a “clunk” noise and/or feel a pulsation in the brake
pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a
malfunction. If the computer senses a malfunction, it switches the ABS off and illuminates the
ABS warning light on the instrument panel. The
brake system then operates normally, but without
anti-lock assistance"
Cheaper to manufacture than glass. No other reason.
Also the fact that they are way more durable. Do you remember how often they’d break? Plus heavier. But you’re right though, the polycarbonate lenses are also cheaper to manufacture now 👍🏼
The word is oxidation not oxidization. Not a fair comparison.
It’s actually a correct way to say the word as well, but more used in the UK, it means the same thing, it’s in the dictionary, look it up
The wipes aren't available.whats the next best option dude?
Meguiars Headlight Coating is even better. Just do one heavy coat though
Aceatone in a popcan and a heat gun on low
Can you please elaborate and give us more of the process?
Yes plastic head lamps are made from polycarbonate and is porous. So contamination and oxidation occurs over time. So when you heat acetone the fumes from the acetone soften polycarbonate allowing the pores to close tightly . Of course you have to resurface badly neglected lamps but once you do you can seal up with acetone fumes and will look factory if done correctly. Remove lamp where when possible . I use red bull can 3 ounces of acetone and a pare of vicegrips and heat gun set on low. Care must be taken not to boil and splash acetone directly on lamp there is a sweet spot per say" where fumes are released". A small funnel help with this. My advice is to practice on a used head lamp . Hope this helps. And of course you my find another practice with this method you are more comfortable with.
Oh and don't touch wile soft allow time for evaporation. And buff by hand only.
The instructions for the kit didn’t say to WET SAND?!?
I bought brighter bulbs. Done
lol, so did my brother, just looks like an UHU, unidentified headlight unit lol
My old eyes thank you for waking me up with your bright-as-the-sun lights.
How much money did you make? This was a commercial for 3M
Has anyone tried turtle wax white polishing compound .
I got a better way to solve the problem...and it didn't cost me money, in fact it saved me money...just don't drive at night LOL!
WD40 you put on less then an hour before inspection.
Oxidation has been an issue for decades. Why haven't the manufactures come up with a solution?
First thought ... All plastic headlights are not made of the same plastic. Nobody seems to address this thoroughly.
This is why some get good or bad results I think with any of these methods. Removing top coat protection is one thing.
Sanding micro cracks and pitting in plastic till smooth is another.
Plastic actually yellowing from clear to yellow because of age or sun damage happens.
At some point maybe not repairable and new units are necessary.
Also chemicals do soften and melt plastics and paint, Be mindful of that fact.
Everyone has a video ... We need one that covers all the facts ... We need more facts.
Thanks for posting though.
They have no topcoat protection, any protectant is all through the plastic. What happens is grit from the act of driving gets on your headlights and every time you wash your car, the grit micro-sands the lens, same as your vehicles paint!. The more the lens gets micro-sanded, the more grip there is for even more grit, until your lens starts to haze and get cloudy. Any colouration of the lens is not the result of the lens turning colour from the sun, it is because the micro sanding has allowed chemical pollutants to get a grip on the surface of your headlights. To solve the problem satisfactorily, one needs to wet sand the polycarbonate with about 1500 grit to start, and then 2000 and then 2500 and finish with 3000. Then the lens is ready for machine polishing with the correct polycarbonate polish. Then, you just leave it alone and don't coat it with U.V. snake oil, or sealant, or anything, because anything you coat it with will also haze and yellow...and then you'll be back to square one and the product companies will have you on the treadmill right where they want you .
Just wet sand. Clean. App;ly a few coats of good quality clearcoat paint. Problem solved ;)
The sand paper should be WET.
Headlights effectively get grit blasted every day whilst driving down the road!
Oxidation.
Gumption cleen paste tryit
Can you give us un update a month or two from date you did it?
Agree sounds good an update🤔
I simply just buy new ones. Problem fixed.
😂
Baking soda with lemon 👍 and 2 days in a row.
Stove top cleaner and urethane spray finish. Repeat.