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Hey guys. Glad I made it into one of your videos, I definitely deserve to get a little shit on. I‘m sorry if some of my comments came out wrong. To clear some things up: What I meant with Crack climbing not being as natural to train in the gym as other things is that you bearly ever see crack climbs in gyms, you need to either set it yourself or get a setter to do it for you which is what all teams have done since last year of course (at least we did). The cracks on rocks thing came out very wrong, obviously I know that there are billions of cracks in the world. What I meant to say was that you could easily be from a place where there is not much crack climbing around you, but like people brought up here there are no run and jumps either so this was a stupid point in the first place, my bad. Oh yeah and with hurting the wrists I meant scraping up the back of your hand, excuse my english.. I‘m training cracks of course, still a loser but count me in for the Olympics! :D
Hey up Jacob, thanks for the message. don't worry about the crack comments, we're not taking things too seriously over here and it's all light hearted :) We're just trying to get people talking about crack climbing more so it can come into the 2021, rather than be left behind in 1980's haha! Also what we actually failed to mention in the video, was actually agreeing with you about the blood on the hold aspect. However, our new volumes and jamming surfaces (releasing soon) are designed and manufactured to help prevent this problem. If we ever meet up, we can do a little swap, we'll give you some tips on offwidthing and you can help us with our comp style dynos (see my attempts at 19:29 ). In need of some help and heckling over here ;) Smash the Olypmics, go big and paddle for glory on the headwall :D
Yeah damn those cracks you never see outdoors. I like it more with the really OG climbing techniques that you see on real rock, like the coordination dyno to a double clutch, or the "swing from jug land on platform" move. Loved it when Jerry Moffatt did those back in the day!
I think it's right for comp climbing not to be constrained by mimicking outdoors climbing, but I think it should aim to introduce and incorporate all the outdoors techniques, and then develop in new directions. Widen the field instead of growing apart.
Not so long time ago bouldering comps consisted only of powerful overhang climbing. Then out of nowhere climbers were confronted with a slab boulder. OMG did they suck. And complain... Now there always is a slab boulder. Let's hope the positive trend with cracks continues!
Bit of a weird argument for Jakob to bring up outdoor climbing at all. Comp climbing has run and jump moves you'd rarely ever see outdoors too. Cracks are just another tool in the setters kit to divide those that can solve vs those that cant (similar to the paddle style dyno).
Between his strange crack comments and his lack of ability to safely belay with a gri gri, it really shows that you can climb 5.15 and still be a total gumby
This was utterly hilarious, great commentary on you part! Also this really goes to show that Adam really is the best overall climber in the world. By leagues. Remember I saw something from a while ago when he was commenting on the "new style" of comp climbing and he was just "Well, I'm not that good at the parkour style, it's hard to set good stuff like that. But I'll get there, it's really fun." That's the spirit of a fucken bad ass athlete
11:00 the European World Cup last week in Austria had a crack too and the commentator actually kept saying “flipperoo.” You guys got shoutouts on the comments for that. 11:07 lol oh you already knew that
PS. Matt did say that Mr O Dogg had shown the Japanese team how to crack after the last comp which I thought was nice of him to take the time to competitors.
And I know in 2019? there was a crack climb that really stumped the Japanese team and Groom mentioned the following year that they had put special attention towards practicing and that's nice to know O Dogg is helping out too
@@pasttenseofdraw5791 Anecdotally for a few months after the 2019 crack, crack problem started popping up everywhere in gyms here in Japan. But I'm guessing nobody could do them because it didn't last very long…
Here in the gunks in New York we have loads of cracks, just 90 degrees rotated 😆 But even here some rudimentary crack techniques makes a lot of climbs easier. So no reason to not have those techniques in your toolbox.
Nice realistic response and had so much fun watching this. Once touched a wideboyz crack trainer, Can’t do shit on it. this channel should explode whit pro climber views.
totally right. If you want to use the argument of "oh it rarely appears in nature", then what about all those toe catch, parcour moves or geometrically shaped holds?
It's really good that they bring cracks into routesetting. It tests if climber has a full range of climbing skills. Cracks have been climbed for ages and can be treated as a basic skillset. Honestly - if 9b climber cannot do a crack climb that average crack climber can do easily... is he/she worth being a climbing champion? Adam Ondra doesn't complain, he just trains everything to be a complete climber. :)
I would love to see: A: as many different techniques as possible in a comp B: a roof with like 2.5-3 m of one finger (mono?) into fist jam or some stacking off-width stuff Edit: I'll guess many of them will binge watch this channel now :-P
So Jakob did his homework, and a crack was essentially the deciding factor for medals in the combined Olympics this year ;) good on you sending him this crack trainers
We had a look through the footage, but there wasn't actually that much footage to comment on. We're excited to see more jams in the women's tho. There have been some nice ones recently in other comps, with alot of the women smashing it, like Kyra for example 🙂
Yeah and in competition they always have to clean the blood off the holds (at least they had to do that at the European Championship in Moskow last year. Pretty sure it´s a new covid rule.) So that´s why a crack very high up in a competition lead route maybe leads to some cleaning breaks.
22:32 The thing about the US is that it's a massive country. Any climber from Yosemite will crush a crack problem, but that's farther away from me in the middle of the country as Germany or Austria is for you guys. Totally different kind of rock and climbing from Utah where team USA trains.
Actually in Utah there is the entire Wasatch range, e.g. Little Cottonwood Canyon in SLC, with endless crack climbing. But comp climbers hardly ever go trad climbing, even if it's just down the block.
Watched it live and couldn't believe what Yacob was saying, Matt did a good job of not calling bullshito was very respectful to the dross Yacob was spouting. The female guest later was much better. Not covering the women's fist jam ?
You guys better get bodyguards now! Seriously, watch out for yourselves. Somebody might rather want to rather see you silenced. It's total madness. Think about it
@@patrickwhiting4831 Am I not getting your sarcasm or do you not get mine? 🤣 Did you watch the video to the end at all? Relax, it's all just total madness.
Such a serious question is if the other competitors have seen Adam win based off of cracks before why do they still neglect completely that skill? Having the most basic ability to crack climb can literally allow you to qualify for finals at comps how is it not worth it to spend 10 sessions and learn?
@@danieljensen2626 yea im sure they will also but my point is imo its being neglected and idk how long its going to take then to clue in that its a skill they should have. If they are trying to be the best comp climbers why place such a handicap on yourself after youve seen examples of it being a diciding factor in modern comps
Cracks have still been kinda rare at comps. Much better to train skills that show up much more often. As cracks become more common, they'll train them more.
@@kockarthur7976 even if rare, if you see them appear at all the amount of dedicated practice to get proficient is minimal and can be added easily to a session is the point.
Tom: I know you just talked to Kyra and Allison. Any plans to get either of them in the cellar. I’m sure kyra could use some crack technique for her Olympic performance.
Love seeing the addition of a bit of crack climbing in the IFSC but I'd like to see the moves closer to the top of the climb to really test the courage and commitment. I climb trad so I do a bit of jamming but I chicken out on off width stuff. Top climbers should be versed in all techniques and comp problems should reflect the whole gamut of climbing styles. Should be more true slabs as well not something that has a wee bit of a slab component.
I hope the @wideboyz gives changes the knowledge for the people heading to the Olympic. It will make the Olympics more interesting and crack climbing is part of the art, to deny this is to deny all parts of rock wall climbing. @wideboyz come correct.
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I'm quite interested in Nat Grossman's crack.
Hey guys. Glad I made it into one of your videos, I definitely deserve to get a little shit on.
I‘m sorry if some of my comments came out wrong.
To clear some things up:
What I meant with Crack climbing not being as natural to train in the gym as other things is that you bearly ever see crack climbs in gyms, you need to either set it yourself or get a setter to do it for you which is what all teams have done since last year of course (at least we did).
The cracks on rocks thing came out very wrong, obviously I know that there are billions of cracks in the world. What I meant to say was that you could easily be from a place where there is not much crack climbing around you, but like people brought up here there are no run and jumps either so this was a stupid point in the first place, my bad.
Oh yeah and with hurting the wrists I meant scraping up the back of your hand, excuse my english..
I‘m training cracks of course, still a loser but count me in for the Olympics! :D
Hey up Jacob, thanks for the message. don't worry about the crack comments, we're not taking things too seriously over here and it's all light hearted :)
We're just trying to get people talking about crack climbing more so it can come into the 2021, rather than be left behind in 1980's haha!
Also what we actually failed to mention in the video, was actually agreeing with you about the blood on the hold aspect. However, our new volumes and jamming surfaces (releasing soon) are designed and manufactured to help prevent this problem.
If we ever meet up, we can do a little swap, we'll give you some tips on offwidthing and you can help us with our comp style dynos (see my attempts at 19:29 ). In need of some help and heckling over here ;)
Smash the Olypmics, go big and paddle for glory on the headwall :D
@@WideBoyz sounds great, I train hard in the meantime so I got the basics dialed once we meet for the real stuff ;)
cracks have been climbed bofore the plastic holds jakob ;) and yea also on granit and in austria 😄🤌 😂
Jacob have in part reason, where he leaving not there are many crack climbing to do, like where I am leave in Italy hehe.....
@@JakobSchubertClimbing you crushed that B4 Jakob!
Talking shit about comp climbers for 33 mins is what I'm subscribed to this channel for!
honestly though
Absolutely
Yep to that!!
you know the Butten to hit than
nods
Yeah damn those cracks you never see outdoors. I like it more with the really OG climbing techniques that you see on real rock, like the coordination dyno to a double clutch, or the "swing from jug land on platform" move. Loved it when Jerry Moffatt did those back in the day!
@Razvan Ababei he's being sarcastic. The moves he mentioned don't often exist outside.
This is swedish humour... Very difficult to understand... ;-)
Exactly what i was thinking
Exactly lmao coordination boulders are completely artificial
I think it's right for comp climbing not to be constrained by mimicking outdoors climbing, but I think it should aim to introduce and incorporate all the outdoors techniques, and then develop in new directions. Widen the field instead of growing apart.
THIS ROCK CLIMB IS TOO MUCH LIKE CLIMBING ROCKS!!!!
?
😂 yup
@@MPHshoots the comment is referring to the announcers in the beginning of the video
"granite doesn't form cracks" damn I guess Yosemite doesn't exist then
Or Vedauwoo or South Platte or Squamish or...
Yeah Idk where that man is coming from
Haha! where i live in Bohuslän Sweden we have plenty of granite cracks
Never seen granite period.
Or pass of ballater, that one might be a little more niche tho...
@@sigillett Jag är därifrån också ^^ Född där iaf :P
Not so long time ago bouldering comps consisted only of powerful overhang climbing.
Then out of nowhere climbers were confronted with a slab boulder.
OMG did they suck. And complain...
Now there always is a slab boulder.
Let's hope the positive trend with cracks continues!
So much shade, I love it.
Great deep dive! I'll be doing all the European rounds...so let's do some briefing!
I feel so bad for Domen, the man wanted to train cracks but couldn't get them
I know! He actually contacted us about it! We will get him some cracks as soon as we can. Feeling like we've let him down...😬
@@WideBoyz did you at least tell him how to screw some 2x4's together?
@@WideBoyz Actually... You did
Last words: "It's just total madness" Those are they Wide Boyz how we know and love them.
what i take from this video is that when a man invites you to his cellar to check his crack you should not miss that opportunity
That sounds so so wrong for some reason....
Can you cover the women’s fist jam too?
When I think of the biggest threat to the O dog I think of you two.
Back hander from the O dog to not teach the others ? 😂
I think at an earlier comp Adam was happy to teach some japanese climbers how to crag climb.. not sure which comp it was.
@@MichielVerhoef I wrote that on the epic tv vlog of the comp in Switzerland a few weeks ago.
Even O-dog can't handle the pete-tom Czech and cracktipede.
Bit of a weird argument for Jakob to bring up outdoor climbing at all. Comp climbing has run and jump moves you'd rarely ever see outdoors too. Cracks are just another tool in the setters kit to divide those that can solve vs those that cant (similar to the paddle style dyno).
That's so true. But also the fact that there is alot of crack climbing outdoors makes even more strange
Between his strange crack comments and his lack of ability to safely belay with a gri gri, it really shows that you can climb 5.15 and still be a total gumby
“I’m not good at this therefore it’s stupid”
... pretty much sums up Jakob’s argument
Pretty weird that you'd try and shit talk Jakob Schubert anyway?! Knows more then these 2 clowns about all aspects of climbing.
@@smashbadger2460 ...except cracks, which was the whole point of this video...
Alternate title: Tom and Pete bully Jakob Schubert for half an hour
This was utterly hilarious, great commentary on you part!
Also this really goes to show that Adam really is the best overall climber in the world. By leagues.
Remember I saw something from a while ago when he was commenting on the "new style" of comp climbing and he was just "Well, I'm not that good at the parkour style, it's hard to set good stuff like that. But I'll get there, it's really fun." That's the spirit of a fucken bad ass athlete
You should send Jakob Schubert a wide boys volume for some crack carpulling as training for the olympics
The japanese did practice cracks. They also had some in their national comps. :)
"really good effort. it's almost like looking into the future of what comp climbers will be like in 55 years time"
hope so.
A dyno into a wide pony, that could really be something
11:00 the European World Cup last week in Austria had a crack too and the commentator actually kept saying “flipperoo.” You guys got shoutouts on the comments for that.
11:07 lol oh you already knew that
So there are cracks in Austria?! Maybe we should inform Jakob Schubert :D
Link?
PS. Matt did say that Mr O Dogg had shown the Japanese team how to crack after the last comp which I thought was nice of him to take the time to competitors.
And I know in 2019? there was a crack climb that really stumped the Japanese team and Groom mentioned the following year that they had put special attention towards practicing and that's nice to know O Dogg is helping out too
@@pasttenseofdraw5791 Anecdotally for a few months after the 2019 crack, crack problem started popping up everywhere in gyms here in Japan. But I'm guessing nobody could do them because it didn't last very long…
My lord this is hilarious. I almost feel bad for you both having your main style crapped on like this LOL
No analysis of the jam in the women's final? More of them actually did a fist jam before switching to elevator doors for the last move.
Oooh I'll check this out didn't know about this
Honestly just love watching you guys laughing and talking. Your positive energy really resonantes with me and makes me feel happy. Thank you.
I laughed so much with the foresight you guys had! XD
Would have been cool for you guys to react to the crack in the women’s finals. First time a crack has appeared in women’s Ifsc climbing
4:12, I'm literally crying! This is so good.
I would pay good money to get someone to set wide pony at the olympics
This comment really made me laugh so much, imagining a wide pony deciding the combined gold. Good money indeed
set it at the START of the lead route.... just imagine that
@@chrissmithdoe2100 That will make up for adam's 9 second speed attempt
Very true! It was shocking to see that they had not learned from the Meiringen final 2 years ago!
Crack jargon and banter all over the place, so good! Had a blast watching!
Imagine, jumping up a 15 meters wall in 6 seconds in the morning and then having to do an actual off-width in the afternoon.
Here in the gunks in New York we have loads of cracks, just 90 degrees rotated 😆 But even here some rudimentary crack techniques makes a lot of climbs easier. So no reason to not have those techniques in your toolbox.
Thanks you two! This video is defo one of the best things that happened this year!
Loved this!! Can't wait to see where comp crack climbing goes now! Also the tea was hilarious
Nice realistic response and had so much fun watching this. Once touched a wideboyz crack trainer, Can’t do shit on it. this channel should explode whit pro climber views.
totally right. If you want to use the argument of "oh it rarely appears in nature", then what about all those toe catch, parcour moves or geometrically shaped holds?
you 2 are the ultimate comedy duo
Really appreciated this dive into the crack climbing
Crack climbers critiquing uneducated sport climbers is one of my new favorite things to watch.
Listening to Jakob being salty about it is even better
"He knows what he doing"
"No wonder he wins everything "
"This is what competitors should be watching"
Haha shots fired at literally everyone
O-dog supremacy
Did my first offwidth lead route yesterday, got even more respect for you guys now as i found it to be hard as nails 😂
I can't wait to see the O Dog to be lapping the pleasure loop
Having a good laugh with you guys, fun time 😄
It's really good that they bring cracks into routesetting. It tests if climber has a full range of climbing skills. Cracks have been climbed for ages and can be treated as a basic skillset. Honestly - if 9b climber cannot do a crack climb that average crack climber can do easily... is he/she worth being a climbing champion? Adam Ondra doesn't complain, he just trains everything to be a complete climber. :)
Right? Its like saying you just don't do crimps. Cracks are everywhere.
I like all of your videos. But I extra like this video. The commentary the climbing world desperately needs.
You guys have really stepped up the YT game lately, and i love it!
I would love to see:
A: as many different techniques as possible in a comp
B: a roof with like 2.5-3 m of one finger (mono?) into fist jam or some stacking off-width stuff
Edit: I'll guess many of them will binge watch this channel now :-P
Could you maybe make a short crack terminology video? I follow you guys, but you coined so many terms! I'm getting lost xD
Think they might have done one quite recently, not certain tho
So Jakob did his homework, and a crack was essentially the deciding factor for medals in the combined Olympics this year ;) good on you sending him this crack trainers
No comment on the fist jam in the ladies final ?
We had a look through the footage, but there wasn't actually that much footage to comment on. We're excited to see more jams in the women's tho. There have been some nice ones recently in other comps, with alot of the women smashing it, like Kyra for example 🙂
That reaction after the Jakob rant 😅
When Jacob talks about his wrist he means his skin ripping open on a crack
Yeah and in competition they always have to clean the blood off the holds (at least they had to do that at the European Championship in Moskow last year. Pretty sure it´s a new covid rule.) So that´s why a crack very high up in a competition lead route maybe leads to some cleaning breaks.
Yeah, but why would this wrists be cut? Poor technique...
@@jrisner6535 It sounds like they thought his wrist would hurt somewhere inside.
Your humour is contagious!
I love that I'm just as ignorant as the people they are utterly trashing but still thoroughly enjoying this
So much fun guys... You're Adam's biggest threat... Scary thinking about it ;-)
22:32 The thing about the US is that it's a massive country. Any climber from Yosemite will crush a crack problem, but that's farther away from me in the middle of the country as Germany or Austria is for you guys. Totally different kind of rock and climbing from Utah where team USA trains.
Actually in Utah there is the entire Wasatch range, e.g. Little Cottonwood Canyon in SLC, with endless crack climbing. But comp climbers hardly ever go trad climbing, even if it's just down the block.
Also Indian creek is in Utah...
Hit Jacobs comments head on. Don't let him be publicly wrong just because he is one of the worlds best comp climbers.
I mean those comp-style boulders solely on volumes and no other holds, or the parkour style is so easy to practice outdoors right?
basically spent the entire video laughing. Brilliant
Bit late on this, but really enjoyed the long form rambly content from you guys - maybe you should start a Wide Boyz podcast??
Watched it live and couldn't believe what Yacob was saying, Matt did a good job of not calling bullshito was very respectful to the dross Yacob was spouting.
The female guest later was much better.
Not covering the women's fist jam ?
Lol while watching the comp listening to Jakob, I was like hahaha the Wide Boys will have something to say about this!! 😂😂
this is the content we're here for boyzz
You guys better get bodyguards now! Seriously, watch out for yourselves. Somebody might rather want to rather see you silenced. It's total madness. Think about it
The dumbest, most paranoid comment I've ever seen...
@@patrickwhiting4831 Am I not getting your sarcasm or do you not get mine? 🤣 Did you watch the video to the end at all? Relax, it's all just total madness.
Been learning alot from you guys. Great content!
I think Jakob's off the WideBoyz Christmas card list...
Ha ha Adam is relying on you remaining out of stock on crack volumes.
Great Video, lovin it!
Such a serious question is if the other competitors have seen Adam win based off of cracks before why do they still neglect completely that skill? Having the most basic ability to crack climb can literally allow you to qualify for finals at comps how is it not worth it to spend 10 sessions and learn?
If cracks keep showing up in comps I'm sure they'll learn.
@@danieljensen2626 yea im sure they will also but my point is imo its being neglected and idk how long its going to take then to clue in that its a skill they should have. If they are trying to be the best comp climbers why place such a handicap on yourself after youve seen examples of it being a diciding factor in modern comps
Cracks have still been kinda rare at comps. Much better to train skills that show up much more often. As cracks become more common, they'll train them more.
@@kockarthur7976 even if rare, if you see them appear at all the amount of dedicated practice to get proficient is minimal and can be added easily to a session is the point.
It would be funny to see a feet first or chicken wing at the comp stage :)
That was so much fun, and dry. Poor JS 😂
This cracks me up
You guys are funny , I have see the bouldering competition and I knew the only one can to it was Adam ;-)
Tom: I know you just talked to Kyra and Allison. Any plans to get either of them in the cellar. I’m sure kyra could use some crack technique for her Olympic performance.
Love seeing the addition of a bit of crack climbing in the IFSC but I'd like to see the moves closer to the top of the climb to really test the courage and commitment. I climb trad so I do a bit of jamming but I chicken out on off width stuff. Top climbers should be versed in all techniques and comp problems should reflect the whole gamut of climbing styles. Should be more true slabs as well not something that has a wee bit of a slab component.
Jakob Schubert THROWIN' SHADE!
"55 years time" ye of little faith! :)
I watched this live, and I was like "ummm... yeah, but no. I hope the Wide Boys are watching this"
I like this so much im sweating throuh the whole discussion. Bring on the ponys!!!!😆😆😆💪💪💪
If the goal is to be a well rounded climber cracks are a must
Jakob needs to train with the wide boyz :)
Adam ondra's hitman knows who to get next. Beware.
Looking forward to the video on that #doublehandedflipsidebackobookopener.
Jakob needs a trip to the Wide Boyz cellar
Seriously, this needs to happen
Gotta say, Schubert's comments did make me a little sad. I suppose not everyone loves crack, but as long as we love it I think we'll be okay
"no wonder he wins everything"😂😂😂
It might be there are more strengths separating Adam from the other competitors, but I like your thinking that it's only the crack climbing :D
Def. feel bad for Domen Skofic, you can just see his frustration.
This is serous motivation for me to train some crack!
Pete looks like Dracula 🧛♂️ haha
I hope the @wideboyz gives changes the knowledge for the people heading to the Olympic. It will make the Olympics more interesting and crack climbing is part of the art, to deny this is to deny all parts of rock wall climbing. @wideboyz come correct.
Need to get some lessons in BEFORE the Olympics me is thinking !
I hope there are more cracks just for videos like this! Nice and fun analysis.
When was Adam going to the cellar finally? Or maybe Jakob..
There has already been a crack in a world cups final in the early nineties when Lynn was still competing
I’m here. I’m also at school but I’m here and watching
"Crack machine." My new favorite training term.
i try to imagine climbing without cracks here in the Elbsandstone...
WE WANT MORE WELL ROUNDED CLIMBERS YEAH