Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my account password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Finley Eugene I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
"After his feet cut and he realises how painful jamming is, Jongwon decides that crack climbing is stupid and he's just gonna dyno past it." Yeah, Jongwon Chon gets it.
Perfect. You really helped me understand why the first guys were failing, and why Adam was far and away better. The crack was making them forget to use their feet.
Thanks for reminding me of my favorite competition moment. I still remember how epic this was: Adam's comeback to the world cup circuit and the setup to win the world cup on the last boulder after he struggled a bit with all the parcour-like moves in previous boulders. That being said, I wished you touched on the controversy of the routesetting as well. It does not seem like a coincidence that the routesetters chose to implement a crack into the world cup for the first time in years in the same event that Adam tried to make his comeback to competitions. It really showed that routesetters have some power over who does well in the competition by playing to the strength of certain athletes.
Hey! That's actually a really good point that I didn't think about in the video, and it's something unique about climbing. I'm not saying they WOULD, but it would be really easy for the routesetters to, say, ensure that Tomoa has a good chance of winning in front of the home crowd. Honestly, that would be a cool idea for a video on its own - how the sets can influence competitions, etc
Clearly Adam was the reason they made the Crack, without him this boulder would have been a Flop. With him it was a huge Show. Making an effort to get a Set that makes for a capturing Comp is a huge Part of good routesetting. It's Not that they "could" favor an athlete. They have to make an effort to Not let one athlete dominate the Show. I think they extensively discuss how the Set fits the competitors. And to be fair, Crack climbing is Not some new Fancy stuff. It's basics, and if the setter were able to give the World Elite such a slap on the back of the head, they needet it. We all needet it . Sucking at cracks is way to common.
I consider the route setters a similar element to climbing than grounds people are to cricket. They decide (probably with some consultation with the home team) how a pitch should be prepared. It may give an edge to the home side, but ultimately both teams are playing on the same pitch and have the same conditions to work with.
I actually thought it was really fair (but I am biased towards the big O). They had several coordination problems, which only happen indoors and heavily favor the indoors-only comp climbers. I hope we get more boulders that encourage a wider variety of movements and styles, especially those that are used outside.
Adam's vast climbing experience and diversity gives him a huge advantage in situations like this. I mean this guy freed the Dawn wall for crying out loud.
I disagree. I think the Olympic route setters are going to want to put exciting looking routes because it is the first time rock climbing will be in the Olympics and they want to make it look like something worth watching to people who have never rock climbed before. As much as I love crack climbing, to someone who has never rock climbed before it looks pretty boring.
@@ragreenburg Yeah, definitely. I can see it being a very parkour centred set. Let's be honest, it does make it super exciting to watch so it will draw in the first time viewers. I think it's a sacrifice worth taking though, we all want climbing to stay around come the next Olympics....just without the speed climbing, hopefully 😅 Predicting Tamao Narasaki and Miho Nonaka to take their respective golds. Ondra, Janja for silver. Rishat Khabibullin and Brooke Raboutou for bronze just to mix it up.
@@p_booth_fan Those are some spicy predictions and I'm here for it. From what I've heard the route setters are leaning into the parkour style for the olympics. However, apparently, there's a rumour going around that they have *something* planned, so maybe we'll see a crack in the final??
@@ragreenburg Not always. The video of Pete climbing Recovery Drink features dynamic climbing with jams. It looks outrageously difficult and impressive.
Great video! I like how you highlighted the moment at 11:02 when all the climbers were comparing techniques, that was my favorite moment as well. Keep up the good work, glad I found your channel!
That is what makes me watch climbing competition. The camaraderie between the competitors is so fun to watch. It often does not feel like they are competing
The movement of the boulders previous to the crack problem were actually quite “exceptional”. Mens final boulder number 2 provided some movement not experienced before. The crack boulder did not provide new movement, but did provide an exceptional competition as a whole.
Czech climbers are basically born in cracks, check the history and culture of sandstone climbing in Bohemia. I actually think that this was first and last crack we'll see in bouldering comps, because crack climbing is pretty easy when you know the technique. These climbers are strong enough, and after Meiringen, I am pretty sure they all know how to climb it.
I'm not 100% sure they all do. At Adidas Rockstar that year, men's 3 had a hand jamb, and iirc both superfinalists skipped it Due to the huge embarrassment of meiringen, though, the jmsca has been trying to force their climbers to learn it. Last year's LJC had a few cracks on both M and F semifinal routes, although Tomoa just skipped them.
So awesome that you got to talk to Pete, The Wide Boyz seem like some of the coolest dudes on the planet. So when are we going to see Ascentionism in the cellar?
They're honestly so chill it's very easy to forget that they're probably two of the greatest crack climbers of all time. That's why I love their channel - it's literally two generational talents just messing around and being goofy. Me going to the cellar would undermine basically any credibility I have as a climber on RUclips soooooo I might delay that
Yeah, I apologize for the rough audio in this one. I use the voice memo function, but I had to re-record some sections and I didn't put my lav mic on in exactly the same place. That's why the tone is so jumpy. A good mic is definitely on the horizon1
More like 10d/11a hand jams are basically jugs on crack climbing, so a 5.12 wouldn't really have one, more likely it would have super thin finger cracks
@@BowlineDandy Yeah more than likely, Even though I'm up climber from Florida I'd probly onsite that one too . looked like a fun Boulder ,but not to set.
@@BowlineDandy I am sure that the wall was too overhanging for it to be a 5.10 handjam. And the moves after to the pinches looked fairly heinous and long to this non-competition climber.
My opinion the competition climbing is not tended to a good way. The moves and jumps are very impressing but not like climbing and bouldering on the rock. I think not the better climber win just who smarter on plastic holds and spend more time with indoor climbing. Indoor and outdoor climbing is separates slowly. I spoke with a climber in the boulder gym who do climbing 3 years and he never was in rock outside :O We making robots who are very strongs on plastic holds and they inhalating magnesium powder constantly :D But they don’t know, what feeling walk to a route starter point in the nature or climbing next to a waterfall. Or stand in a half of a 1000 m high wall and see the landscape back me. For me It’s the most important thing in climbing.
Climbing outdoors is different than indoor climbing, sure. Indoor climbing is still climbing, and uses very similar skills. Saying that the better climber doesn't win is so fucking stupid, considering that best people at indoor competitions are also some of the best outdoor climbers in the world.
@@petkras I think Meringen proved it doesn’t use similar skills. Crack climbing is absolutley essential in trad and the only guy in the competition with a clue was Ondra
good to see this up and nice one with the video and breakdown 🙂
Was fun to chat it through with you 👍 cheers!
Adam is the man 💪
What grade are you giving it?
@@widgetno1 an ondra flash is O-zero, so O0 it it
Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my account password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Bowen Owen instablaster =)
@Finley Eugene I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
"After his feet cut and he realises how painful jamming is, Jongwon decides that crack climbing is stupid and he's just gonna dyno past it." Yeah, Jongwon Chon gets it.
i love how adam just walked up the boulder that no one else could figure out
I love jongwons idea: Wish he would have done it his style
"crack climbing is stupid" 😂
Perfect. You really helped me understand why the first guys were failing, and why Adam was far and away better. The crack was making them forget to use their feet.
Thanks for reminding me of my favorite competition moment. I still remember how epic this was: Adam's comeback to the world cup circuit and the setup to win the world cup on the last boulder after he struggled a bit with all the parcour-like moves in previous boulders.
That being said, I wished you touched on the controversy of the routesetting as well. It does not seem like a coincidence that the routesetters chose to implement a crack into the world cup for the first time in years in the same event that Adam tried to make his comeback to competitions. It really showed that routesetters have some power over who does well in the competition by playing to the strength of certain athletes.
Hey! That's actually a really good point that I didn't think about in the video, and it's something unique about climbing. I'm not saying they WOULD, but it would be really easy for the routesetters to, say, ensure that Tomoa has a good chance of winning in front of the home crowd.
Honestly, that would be a cool idea for a video on its own - how the sets can influence competitions, etc
Clearly Adam was the reason they made the Crack, without him this boulder would have been a Flop. With him it was a huge Show.
Making an effort to get a Set that makes for a capturing Comp is a huge Part of good routesetting.
It's Not that they "could" favor an athlete. They have to make an effort to Not let one athlete dominate the Show. I think they extensively discuss how the Set fits the competitors.
And to be fair, Crack climbing is Not some new Fancy stuff. It's basics, and if the setter were able to give the World Elite such a slap on the back of the head, they needet it.
We all needet it . Sucking at cracks is way to common.
I consider the route setters a similar element to climbing than grounds people are to cricket. They decide (probably with some consultation with the home team) how a pitch should be prepared.
It may give an edge to the home side, but ultimately both teams are playing on the same pitch and have the same conditions to work with.
I actually thought it was really fair (but I am biased towards the big O). They had several coordination problems, which only happen indoors and heavily favor the indoors-only comp climbers. I hope we get more boulders that encourage a wider variety of movements and styles, especially those that are used outside.
I loooooove this clip where he just flies up and its so ridicilously easy for him!
Adam's vast climbing experience and diversity gives him a huge advantage in situations like this. I mean this guy freed the Dawn wall for crying out loud.
crack climbing seem to have gained a lot of attention in the bouldering demographic, I think we're gonna see some of it at the olympics
I disagree. I think the Olympic route setters are going to want to put exciting looking routes because it is the first time rock climbing will be in the Olympics and they want to make it look like something worth watching to people who have never rock climbed before. As much as I love crack climbing, to someone who has never rock climbed before it looks pretty boring.
@@ragreenburg Yeah, definitely. I can see it being a very parkour centred set. Let's be honest, it does make it super exciting to watch so it will draw in the first time viewers. I think it's a sacrifice worth taking though, we all want climbing to stay around come the next Olympics....just without the speed climbing, hopefully 😅
Predicting Tamao Narasaki and Miho Nonaka to take their respective golds.
Ondra, Janja for silver. Rishat Khabibullin and Brooke Raboutou for bronze just to mix it up.
@@p_booth_fan Those are some spicy predictions and I'm here for it.
From what I've heard the route setters are leaning into the parkour style for the olympics. However, apparently, there's a rumour going around that they have *something* planned, so maybe we'll see a crack in the final??
@@ascentionism I wonder if that's why the O-Dog is heading to the Wide Boyz crack cellar? 🤔
@@ragreenburg Not always. The video of Pete climbing Recovery Drink features dynamic climbing with jams. It looks outrageously difficult and impressive.
Great video! I like how you highlighted the moment at 11:02 when all the climbers were comparing techniques, that was my favorite moment as well. Keep up the good work, glad I found your channel!
Thanks! I always like seeing the climbers after when they talk about the route
That is what makes me watch climbing competition. The camaraderie between the competitors is so fun to watch. It often does not feel like they are competing
@@carlosdumbratzen6332 Feels much more like a "Them vs. The Boulders" rather than "Them vs. Each Other" which, for me, is a vibe I prefer.
Watching this live was epic
The movement of the boulders previous to the crack problem were actually quite “exceptional”. Mens final boulder number 2 provided some movement not experienced before. The crack boulder did not provide new movement, but did provide an exceptional competition as a whole.
Adam Ondra is such a stud. I wonder if or when silence gets repeated.
Oh yeah! Get yourself out to Squamish and you too will be flashing the Meiringen Crack!
I spent half an hour on the phone with Pete Whittaker so I'll see y'all at Cobra crack
Love it!
Adam: *pulls into the off fingers on a ring lock*
Me: oh yeah, it’s over haha
Czech climbers are basically born in cracks, check the history and culture of sandstone climbing in Bohemia. I actually think that this was first and last crack we'll see in bouldering comps, because crack climbing is pretty easy when you know the technique. These climbers are strong enough, and after Meiringen, I am pretty sure they all know how to climb it.
I'm not 100% sure they all do. At Adidas Rockstar that year, men's 3 had a hand jamb, and iirc both superfinalists skipped it
Due to the huge embarrassment of meiringen, though, the jmsca has been trying to force their climbers to learn it. Last year's LJC had a few cracks on both M and F semifinal routes, although Tomoa just skipped them.
Ondra on that last route is awesome. What a great finish to a tournament. Great sportsmanship too between all of them.
So awesome that you got to talk to Pete, The Wide Boyz seem like some of the coolest dudes on the planet.
So when are we going to see Ascentionism in the cellar?
They're honestly so chill it's very easy to forget that they're probably two of the greatest crack climbers of all time. That's why I love their channel - it's literally two generational talents just messing around and being goofy.
Me going to the cellar would undermine basically any credibility I have as a climber on RUclips soooooo I might delay that
Nice work! That was super fun to watch the analysis of the comp and that route
and Meiringen hit again with the crack this year ! haha
No doubts Adam is the completest climber in the whole wide world
this was a lovely moment wasn't it. thanks for making this video!
Binging...you're the best!
All of those climbers who couldn't top just need to spend time in Yosemite. They just weren't familiar with the technique.
Thank you for the analysis!
great video! thanks
love your videos!
"Nothing exceptional" wtf man? That Meiringen was huge. Men's 2 was a never before seen move! Did you even watch it?
3:39 this aged well
btw ascentionism it might be time to invest in a new mic, or maybe try using your phone's voice memo function
Yeah, I apologize for the rough audio in this one. I use the voice memo function, but I had to re-record some sections and I didn't put my lav mic on in exactly the same place. That's why the tone is so jumpy. A good mic is definitely on the horizon1
12 b, crack maybe
More like 10d/11a hand jams are basically jugs on crack climbing, so a 5.12 wouldn't really have one, more likely it would have super thin finger cracks
@@BowlineDandy Yeah more than likely, Even though I'm up climber from Florida I'd probly onsite that one too . looked like a fun Boulder ,but not to set.
@@BowlineDandy I am sure that the wall was too overhanging for it to be a 5.10 handjam. And the moves after to the pinches looked fairly heinous and long to this non-competition climber.
@@BowlineDandy Basically, the best climbers make everything look easy. /shrug.
buñuelo
Adam learned this during the american crag climbing tour...
This just shows that adam can only win boulder when cracks are invovled.
My opinion the competition climbing is not tended to a good way. The moves and jumps are very impressing but not like climbing and bouldering on the rock. I think not the better climber win just who smarter on plastic holds and spend more time with indoor climbing. Indoor and outdoor climbing is separates slowly. I spoke with a climber in the boulder gym who do climbing 3 years and he never was in rock outside :O
We making robots who are very strongs on plastic holds and they inhalating magnesium powder constantly :D But they don’t know, what feeling walk to a route starter point in the nature or climbing next to a waterfall. Or stand in a half of a 1000 m high wall and see the landscape back me. For me It’s the most important thing in climbing.
Climbing outdoors is different than indoor climbing, sure. Indoor climbing is still climbing, and uses very similar skills.
Saying that the better climber doesn't win is so fucking stupid, considering that best people at indoor competitions are also some of the best outdoor climbers in the world.
@@petkras I think Meringen proved it doesn’t use similar skills. Crack climbing is absolutley essential in trad and the only guy in the competition with a clue was Ondra