Adam Ondra VS. Japanese Climbing Team - Wide Boyz Analyse
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Wide Boyz analyse the original 2019 Meiringen crack climb, where Adam Ondra took Gold on the final problem.
We take a look at the original Crack in the Meiringen World Cup IFSC competition. This is the last problem of the competition, where Adam faces 4 other Japanese climbers and 1 Korean, it's the big show down of who knows how to jam, turn those knee in and paddle for glory.
*This episode was filmed and edited a few months back before cracks appeared in Women's comps (so we know that comment is out of date) we have since seen Miho and Brooke smashing the cracks in Salt Lake 😀
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crack climbing, climbing, IFSC climbing competition, Adam Ondra Meiringen Crack, Adam ondra meiringen, crack boulder competitions, boulder competitions, IFSC world cup, World cup climbing, world cup circuit, IFSC men's finals, japanese climbing team, Tomoa Narasaki, Tomoa Narasaki speed climbing, Tomoa Narasaki dyno compilation, Jon Won Chon, bouldering, wide boyz, pete whittaker, tom randall
*This episode was filmed and edited a few months back before cracks appeared in Women's comps (so we know that comment is out of date) we have since seen Miho and Brooke smashing the cracks in Salt Lake 😀
Will we get an analyse video on the women's comps too?
@@dsoegijono yes it's coming
@@WideBoyz When will you get a restock for Crack Gloves Size Small? I've been looking to get them for a couple months since release now but they are always out of stock :(
Czechmate should be O-Dog's catchphrase. That had me dying.
We heard it here first.
The way Pete laughs is contagious, its the best thing watching 2 best friends who have been around each other for as long as these two. Warm happy feels much love from Wichita. KS USA
O-dogs gonna do an upsidedown book opener with his feet - sans shoes 😎
I don't even know what that is, but he'd probably do it 😅
@@WideBoyz sans means ´without’ in French, so it must be something quite tricky
@@Paul-es5tz without shoes. The OP is just bragging for Ondra because he’s so powerful.
@@WideBoyz That would be a wide pony!
The fact you said we don't know what a book opener is...I'm hurt.
We didn't know until that cellar session (last week's vid), then Tom realised it 😇🙌haha
@@WideBoyz I honestly think he was just doing a kind of "wondering gesture" that had nothing to do with the book opener...
@@rtzlpfmpf Fakenewz!
I recall seeing this comp live. It was beyond amazing to see ODog comeback into podium position with this top after struggling to maintain top position like his usual self.
It seemed to be team Japan had never heard of jams.
IOC!!! please last-minute hire Wide Boys as commentators of 2021 climbing comps.
Would absolutely watch that live stream.
I was having belly laughs thorough this vid.
You guys are truly hilarious
I do like the comp crack breakdowns, would be great to see you do the recent Salt Lake offerings!
Yes we have another fun one coming up from Salt lake
@@WideBoyz wooo! looking forward to it
Would love to see you guys with Shauna in the cellar !
Not the cellar, but it's something ruclips.net/video/vvmi62dtgsM/видео.html
It’s official: Adam Ondra aka O Dog aka The Bookmaker aka Inventor of the book-opener
He is just next lvl man
"Czech Mate"
Yes the book openers are useful on the Murrayfield transitions 😎
WideBoyz have entered the world of react content and I’m so here for it. Great stuff!
this is unironically some of the funniest shit i've, and what makes it better is how happy the rest of them are for him
I thought they said:
Tom: “seeing that thumb just wiggling around like a fish ”
Pete: “Just depressing”
😂 2:34
Haha I think I said 'all he's doing is compressing' 😅
@@WideBoyz you did you did ✌️still made me laugh though 🥸☺️
Your O-dog book-opener is a proper conspiracy theory XD
Still one of my favourite Wide Boyz videos ! You guys are just legends 😂
haha nice one :)
Great video guys. You 2 always have me in stitches. Big O in the cellar?? Cant wait for that video!! Cheers guys!!
This is their best commentary video yet, by far. Loved it.
Yes please recreate it if you can ! I'm very curious how you would both handle it !
First try on camera too :) !
Wait.. is O-Dog + cellar confirmed?!
Please set that problem! I would love to see that.
I propose “T-Style” as Tomoa’s nickname going forward.
Did you guys end up getting the volumes? A replica would make for an amazing video!
We never asked for the volumes. I feel like this is a winter filming project when the weather gets bad and we want to go back inside again 😅 would be amazing to try and do tho
@@WideBoyz definitely!
Getting a bit chilly...
I know that the climbing olympic cometary was less than perfect but I don't know how much of a leg we have to stand on when we are using terms like "milk the foot".
Absolutely loved the video!
The absolute audacity of O-dog to throw out the book opener willy nilly like that
Pretty sure Adams "book opener" was just a shrug after he explained the one handed jam. "Book Opener" aka "Czech Shrug".
think you might be right
thats what I thought too..
When that little competition called the Olympics are out the way, love the idea of Adam in the cellar!
best channel on youtube. I'd absolutely support a patreon to make a wideboiz podcast happen. Just tom and pete chattin' on about whatever.
yeahhhh!!
OH this is going to be good! 🔥
- Sam
are you commenting on your own content :D... you're syched about yourself
Video idea/request: find the setter for the Meiringen crack and get them on Climber's Crag. Also, in general, getting some setters on your channel would be cool - they don't get nearly as much attention as pro climbers and coaches.
@@linuxlife yeah that’s a great idea! Definitely need some more spotlight on setters!
@@linuxlife have any setters you want to hear from in particular? (Anyone else can add their thoughts as well)
@david Sam is the one who runs Climbers Crag channel. That's Seperate from Wide Boyz.
I always love your videos and particularly the banter. I have to say this one is the best yet. Classic video, keep it coming.
O-Dog crushing as always.
He is the man 🙌 so good to watch the versatility of his skill set
@@WideBoyz ah the bookopener emoji 🙌
@@BenRickProductions oh yes, you've got it 😉
these analysis vids are super interesting:)
I think we need a Crackipedia for all your jargon
Oh god this video made my morning, the jokes are so shit it's amazing! Czechmate.. damn that shit had me crying
I thiiiink you're reading in to the book opener a wee bit tho.. I don't doubt he doesn't know it but for me that looked like he showed of one hand jam and then the two hand was just him shrugging saying "Well you put one hand in and then you just go"
Great video as always, looking forward to the Salt Lake episode that I just assume is coming:)
i don't fully understand why this is so funny, and so compelling to watch, but I'm happy to surf the wave of fun!
O dog book opener! Had me dying 🤣 love the channel, keep it up guys!
haha, can't wait for Ondra to use it in the cellar
One day late to the party, but still wide time. I can listen to you lads talk about mad crack terminology for hours.
There actually was a crack at a women's bouldering world cup recently. Meiringen 2021finals W4. It was cheatable and Janja tried the jam but she eventually decided it wasn't necessary. Maybe take a look at Meiringen 2021 in a future video.
Yes we saw them 😀
Sorry this was filmed and edited a little while ago so those comments were out of date.
Could you ask a climbing gym to recreate this crack and invite some climbers? Would be amazing
Laugh out loud funny, would recommend, 10/10 viewing
Please get the holds and volumes and recreate the problem!! that would be an amazing video
Percy B and Dawes as a setting team would be awesome. Adam is not only monstrously strong but also fiendishly cunning. At Stoney Mid, Our Father has a book opener move.
you guys could just be overthinking it, I bet it wen something like
Japanese dude: how did you put you hand?
O'dog: I just stuck it deep man I don't know (pulls the book opener)
It seems to me the gesture is more like a "I don't know what you want me to tell you"
You are 99% most likely correct 😀
@@WideBoyz oooh but that nasty 1% is killing you isn't?
I think it'd be good to explain more of these moves you guys use like the book opener and the pony move, I only boulder so I watch these and understand like 10% of the moves you guys reference lol
I don't even climb and I know what a wide pony is lol
@@mathkrGames Instead of being a little snark, you could just explain it after OP has explicitly asked for some context, you mean-o. Ralph, man!
Omg, pleeease get Shauna in the cellar that would be so cool!!
Meiringen is actually pronounced “M- Eye -Ringen” 👁
The book opener. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
That was well spotted by Tom, had me chuckling for sure
Rewatching this after Adam visiting the cellar.
And for some brilliant Tom-isms.
Brilliant, you guys are a a riot as always. Love it!
Should be titled
'Crack coaches make fun of the world's best competition boulderers hoping to attract business'
Absolutely incredible! Please keep these videos up!
omfg the book opener you guys crack me the f up. idk if i watch for the crack more or the lols
😀 glad you enjoyed it
This is the funniest shit I’ve ever seen boys, amazing 😂😂😂
We need a book full of crack climbing jargon
1 vote for getting the volumes and setting the problem!
We will definitely see a 180 book-opener in the Olympics. If not a book-opener double flipperoo Dyno
Bookopener double flipperoo! I like it. Where you flip both hands at the same time. Kind of like a double clutch but into jams
@@WideBoyz😂 You heard it here first. Until a video surfaces of Ondra doing it years ago.
high quality crack content. Would love to see you guys set this problem and try it !!!
If you guys could recreate this by getting all the volumes that would be amazing.
Sunday just got better
6:00 Yes, Tom did mean prosperity not posterity. He wants to auction them as historical relics XD
when i was watching that video of the comp after watching some videos of you 2 and Magnus it was so obvious that all of them didnt know anything about how to climb crags, than Adam came out and just went up that crag like it was nothing, i think that most of them would be able to climb this after just few days with you guys, i seams like they just need the basic knowledge of how to put the hands in and they would be fine
I love how you pronounce "Meiringen". Try with "M+eye+ring+an". Also, don't do a Matt Groom "M+eye+ringy". Cheers from Thun (close to Meiringen)
That is very good to know, we're not good on pronunciation of names of competitors or places...
Great stuff as always! 🙌
Boy I wish I only had half your strength and knowledge on the wall, I mean I injured myself on V2 while I'm being more on the lvl of V0-1 in gym, right now I'm pathetic but I'll grow stronger, I have to!
oh boy looking forward to this video!
That book opener is just killer, you guys are just amazing in analyzing but also just the sheer good vibes. Also O-Dog inventing crack moves while explaining the moves to the Japanese team is good fun, but now entertain this thought...
What would happen if he focusses on diehard crack climbing? Like imagine the crack variant of Silence, just the idea of all the crack climbs that are yet to be discovered or send fills me with joy and eagerness to see what happens.
Also, would anyone by chance know where to find some proper crack climbing in France/Germany (like dedicated sites/forums) or England? Think like 5c/6a difficulty (sadly ain't that hard of a climber just yet ;) )
I would’ve paid good money to be in the waiting area with the Japanese team when Ondra casually looked back at the crowd from a position of that had spit them all off the wall. They looked hyped afterwards lol.
There is a video on the flathold youtube channel about the setting in meiringen, they talk abit about the crack holds
10:05 I think the angle of the wall can be found before each competitors start climbing in the footage.
I would love to see you guys do some of these probems. That would be awesome!!
You mean 'try' some of those problems 😅
@@WideBoyz you guys are awesome. No harder than the basement right haha. Also excited for the new crack gloves to come.
tca glasgow have set some wideboys routes love the jammy challenge need to up my game tho jammin is hard work
O dog in cellar when??? We need it boyz!
You guys are so hilarious 😂
this broke back mountain remake is so strange
what the hell is a book opener?! got it haha
This video is epic, these guys are hilarious.
I think this is my favorite climbing based youtube. listening to them talk about about crack is so moorish
I'm so sure you are just overthinking this but I love you anyway
Good stuff! I remember Adam (O-dawg) posting on insta that he would rate the crack 5.12 or so, which surprised me, as it looks like 10+ maybe from behind my computer screen :) While we are all having fun taking our pot shots at these beasts, I've got to admit it's a little much to put these competitors so far out of their comfort zone without warning lol. Can't imagine their disappointment afterwards, even though it was such an exciting moment for everyone else watching. Hopefully the embarrassment they suffered motivated them to tickle some trout, or at least lob some paddles. As a follow up, would love to see your perspective on who has improved the most since then & I find myself asking, should crack gloves be allowed in IFSC comps? If so, how about kneebar pads?
Please recreate this problem. I need to see you do it
With the sheer number of hours these guys spend on a climbing wall, it's SHOCKING that none of them know how to hand jam.
If Adam was a route setter at olympics, it would be something very close to a smooth wall.
Pleaseeee recreate it and do it
Haha, the problem comes when we can't actually make it too the crack feature itself 😅
@@WideBoyzI i reckon you'll get it Czech style in Adam's honour, Pete on Tom's shoulders to reach the crack and then lob Tom up to the top, as with the Impossible Problem
@@rorybryson626 fantastic idea!!
The year is 2432 humans has achieved the final challenge.. Leading the Century Crack in the style of triple-Crackipede.
This had me in stitches 😅
Would love to see you recreate the crack
Can you do a crackabet... crack alphabet... I don't know any of the terms you use.
"How did he do that?"
"Czech, mate."
brilliant...again!
It's mEIringen, like my-ring-en :D but glad you tried...
Tom doing his best to look like a crack addict on this video 😂
We knew what the book opener was, don’t worry.
Sorry it's not related to the vid, but, have you lads heard of majlis al jinn in Oman?
This was 10/10 entertaining... I wanna blaze with you guys and watch climbing vids
Aghhh this is too goood!!
the routesetters wanted Adam to win
Its hard to "introduce" a well known style of climbing into compclimbing... Yes at the time he was the only decent crack climber, but how else do you manage this? Yes this problem was a gift for him.
IIRC he struggled a bit with the rest of the problems for that comp. (It was close enough though that being the only one to top this got him the gold.) There were some dynamic problems that the Japanese team excelled at that he looked pretty uncomfortable on (of course, since the he’s trained that style and become extremely good at that stuff too).
@@thekamikaze789 to be fair, when they decided on the final set, they would've known who was going to make it into the finals.
The chalk on the laptop is 👌
Honestly just want to try crack for the terms for moves at this point, as well as the variation XD
I was wondering if it is allowed to have gloves or kneepads on comps and it is not, but... on the IFSC rules it is defined what a glove is: "Gloves means any hand-made or manufactured glove, whether or not designed and sold for the
purposes of climbing. For the avoidance of doubt, tape applied to the hands by the athlete
themselves is NOT be considered to be a Glove." Also, the rules don't mention any sleeves like the ones Mary Eden wears.
When comp climbers are wearing sleeves like Mary, things will have really moved on
This was so funny when I first saw it.
please, make the front-side 180 paddle-handed book-opener into a fliperoo three-way crack-a-pede happen
That would be something!