Do WET climbing ropes break weaker???

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  • Опубликовано: 17 янв 2025

Комментарии • 454

  • @HowNOT2
    @HowNOT2  Год назад +1

    Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

  • @Lunzicle
    @Lunzicle 2 года назад +146

    The value of the knowledge you’re sharing is going up exponentially with each video.

    • @rahulyadav-mj2or
      @rahulyadav-mj2or 2 года назад +1

      couldn't have said it better. the only channel i subscribe to now

  • @jamiemcbarron
    @jamiemcbarron 2 года назад +225

    Plug the shit out off the stuff mate . Some people don't relise it costs money to do the science of breaking gear fear. And the content is actually useful for real world applications . As a 40 year-old that started climbing only 4 years ago your channel has helped lot in understanding the limitations of my gear . And has helped me push for more adventures in my homeland of Scotland .. so keep up the great work the whole how not 2 team 👏

    • @tomedinburgh4490
      @tomedinburgh4490 2 года назад +8

      I genuinely was terrified of dyneema due to that old drop test video until I found Ryan's videos and he put things in context. The work he does is a fantastic resource.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +11

      @@tomedinburgh4490 Thanks. We have some really really good dyneema videos in the bank.

    • @elmeradams8781
      @elmeradams8781 2 года назад +2

      What does "plug the .... out off the stuff mate" mean?

    • @tomedinburgh4490
      @tomedinburgh4490 2 года назад +4

      @@elmeradams8781 plug = advertise, canvas, sell

    • @colinandrew8573
      @colinandrew8573 2 года назад +3

      Climbing in Scotland - this episode was made specifically for you :-)

  • @maxolberding5318
    @maxolberding5318 2 года назад +67

    This channel is becoming more and more like Mythbusters but for outdoor sports. Crazy to see how quickly this show has increased it's production value! high quality content from Mr. Jinks.

    • @jcee2259
      @jcee2259 2 года назад

      I've only been told to watch Mythbusters.
      Catch-up with me in a cave to say so.

  • @johnnyray6272
    @johnnyray6272 2 года назад +77

    I experienced one instance where I was relatively convinced that my rope would have performed differently if it had been dry. During a slightly swinging top rope fall, the sheath ripped open with surprising ease as it made contact with the rock. If a rope's strength against sharp edges is significantly compromised when wet, this could be a realistic safety issue.

    • @danielraven3855
      @danielraven3855 2 года назад +7

      It could have been wearing if the anchor was set up with the rope rubbing the rock, how many times was it climbed prior on the same setup?

    • @federicogonzalez8033
      @federicogonzalez8033 Год назад

      Yup, that would ve my guess.
      The actual strength of the rope is the same, but the durability decreases, thats why this test with new rope showed no difference, but the tests with multiple hard falls did show a difference.

  • @jordans92169
    @jordans92169 2 года назад +94

    Let's take a moment to recognize Ryan is breaking a sterling dry rope for us. He had to sacrifice many dollars to the climbing gods.

  • @collinsmith9941
    @collinsmith9941 2 года назад +9

    I’m a little late to the comment section on this one. I wanted to point out a few flaws in your testing.
    -It wasn’t wet enough you clearly should have soaked the rope in pure glacier water directly from the source.
    - There wasn’t enough sun to be considered a partly sunny day.
    - The moon phase was off
    - And finally it’s obvious by color coordinating the rope and pants you were playing favorites.
    Hehehe
    Thanks for putting in the effort great video.

  • @deadfishporter
    @deadfishporter 2 года назад +39

    Great stuff!
    I hate climbing in the rain. But an arborist doesn't get to pick the weather 🤷🏻‍♂️

  • @TheMegaMrMe
    @TheMegaMrMe 2 года назад +14

    As a beginner climber when I hear the rope creaking I get scared. It's cool to see the figure 8 knot does not slip. You really are breaking gear fear for me. Kudos

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад +3

      Ropes creaking is totally normal. Ironically, they actually *stop* creaking when they're wet

  • @Rookus88
    @Rookus88 2 года назад +9

    The quality of your videos is geting better and better :)

  • @largeformatlandscape
    @largeformatlandscape 2 года назад +2

    Loving the content... not bothered by the ads, very happy if they're working for you.

  • @jcee2259
    @jcee2259 2 года назад +5

    Since 1964 I've never seen my wet cave rope break.
    I did have issues with wet rope that froze and that
    defeated my use of Gibbs and Prusik knots. So, I
    climbed up a flowing melt-water chute on-belay.

  • @SaschaVIE
    @SaschaVIE 2 года назад +1

    If you say comments are good for you, it is a supergood enough reason to say that I love your channel.

  • @nunniabidnets2471
    @nunniabidnets2471 2 года назад

    Thanks!

  • @FullFaceAndy
    @FullFaceAndy 2 года назад +4

    River guide and swift water rescue professional; love super good enough! This channel is super good enough to subscribe to.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +2

      keep those ropes dry ;)

  • @zerumsum1640
    @zerumsum1640 2 года назад +30

    my honest guess as to where the "wet ropes are weaker" thing comes from is from sailing. certain types of rope, when stored wet for periods of time, can mold and this decreases their strength. i don't think this is a problem with synthetic rope, but may be a thing to test.

    • @kadmow
      @kadmow 2 года назад +8

      It is a common thought - riggers and 4x4ers cop it too, Nylon is nearly always "regarded" as being weaker when wet -
      run it through a descender under load and it won't be too wet any longer...

    • @sebastianflynn1746
      @sebastianflynn1746 2 года назад +6

      This isn't true, it comes from the fact that nylon gets weaker, when it's wet, that simple. Ryan's tests even show this.

    • @jackdbur
      @jackdbur 2 года назад +4

      It originally comes from natural fibre ropes that really are significantly weaker when wet.

  • @Aeronaughtica
    @Aeronaughtica 2 года назад +2

    I’ve been waiting for this video for awhile. Thank you!

  • @pij3333
    @pij3333 2 года назад +25

    would be interesting to see the strength of ropes that are used in wet conditions regularly. Like if a rope has been soaked in water, then laid out in the sun for the day. And repeat this for a couple of weeks or something

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +18

      research (like how generic i'm being haha) says once it dries out it returns to normal except for whatever micro damage was done to it wet

    • @huntergibson9359
      @huntergibson9359 2 года назад +10

      The sun probably does more damage than the water in that scenario.

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад +3

      If this were a problem, cavers would be dead. 🤣

  • @mountainmandoug
    @mountainmandoug 2 года назад +2

    I think that was a really excellent test, exactly the sort of thing your drop tower is for. Thanks.

  • @StirdIPhil
    @StirdIPhil 2 года назад +3

    I don't mind the plugs at all. It's refreshing to see some "wholesome" advertising. Please never sell out to one of those mobile game companies. Love the videos, keep up the great work!

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +2

      I really really don't want to go to the skillshare or squarespace ad model. Those really make me lose respect for channels i watched since the beginning. I like to add value to the community as much as possible if i'm going to have to plug stuff to make this sustainable.

  • @ПетрСтраумал
    @ПетрСтраумал 2 года назад +1

    "The water is cold"
    Brilliant! :))))

  • @dansigmon1559
    @dansigmon1559 2 года назад +1

    You guys and gals are doing a great job.

  • @mohawkman9
    @mohawkman9 2 года назад +2

    lol I love that uh huh smile nod. I had to rewind and watch that a few times I was laughing so hard. Great video man!

  • @TheBonehead420
    @TheBonehead420 2 года назад +5

    This channel is awesome. You guys have really helped show me how to properly use my gear and have helped eliminate a lot of my gear fear. Only thing I question anymore is the quality of the anchor in the rock on sport routes. One thing I would be curious to see is some drip testing of the Edelrid ohm device. I’m curious how much force it reduces for the belayer. My fiancé and I have about 70lbs difference between us so when I fall she tends to catch some air. lol. I recently purchased an ohm device and am waiting for it to come in so we can get out and test it.

  • @andreanicole1124
    @andreanicole1124 2 года назад +1

    Such great content! Thank you for all your valuable contributions to the community!

  • @CW-go9vv
    @CW-go9vv Год назад +1

    Super good enough is an under statement! Dont get me wrong, safety is always priority number 1! Double/triple check your systems and gear every time. Using gear rated at these ratios is means for having good fun with good friends. That's what its all about! Thank you Ryan and Bobby!!! You boys are the shiz!!!

  • @iandonnelly6684
    @iandonnelly6684 2 года назад +9

    It's cool how the dry rope got wet slower

  • @greghart6310
    @greghart6310 2 года назад +17

    I could've saved you a bunch of time Ryan. We developed a crag which dries super fast, which meant that we often get caught half way up a route by rain, run away and hide in a cave for a bit, then go straight back to climbing on, yes, wet ropes. We are all still alive. Truth is if you ever generate enough force to be close to the ropes max you will probably break your back. Most falls dont come even vaguely close to those kind of forces

  • @jaredmoore9616
    @jaredmoore9616 2 года назад +1

    You're the man! I appreciate everything you and Bobby do. BTW, I live and guide climbing in Truckee, and I have seen Bobby around multiple times now. Haven't said hello yet, but I'm sure I will. It seems like we do some of the same kind of work with youth.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +1

      Say hello next time, can't say i won't be awkward but i am usually friendly. -Bobby

  • @marcellocricco-lizza4989
    @marcellocricco-lizza4989 2 года назад

    Great video. Leaving a comment and a thumbs up.
    I really enjoyed the charts and the fact that you tested the ropes on the drop tower and slacksnap.

  • @bbjbbj4
    @bbjbbj4 2 года назад +23

    I've always wondered how fast someone would fall if they're rappelling with an ATC and just completely let go of the rope. It must slow them down a bit, especially rappelling on 2 strands of rope, and I wonder if some twisting or swinging of the rope from the fall would make you speed up or slow down.

    • @joshuajaydan
      @joshuajaydan 2 года назад +4

      I've been canyoneering a lot. Would love to see this test, but I can say with some certainty, it won't slow you enough to help.

    • @torydavis10
      @torydavis10 2 года назад +5

      Sadly, because gravity, you have the most significant friction at the very top of a very tall rope. It does a bit for sure, but the qualitative result of hitting the deck from a given height is more or less the same as with no rope. Always have a 3rd hand or a fireman's belay, seizures happen.

    • @torydavis10
      @torydavis10 2 года назад +4

      I just realized I don't actually know whether those are real terms or just what utah canyoneers call them. For clarity, '3rd hand' is a klemheist knot on your brake line clipped to your leg loop, and 'fireman's belay' is an attentive buddy at the bottom with his hands high on your brake line ready to stop you.

    • @conanpiggott9465
      @conanpiggott9465 2 года назад +2

      When canyoning I frequently let go of the last portion of an rappel to drop into a pool of water. And I can tell you the speed lost is almost that of a freefall

    • @bbjbbj4
      @bbjbbj4 2 года назад +1

      @@torydavis10 I've never done any canyoneering and have heard climbers call it a third hand. Obviously best practice is to have some element of redundancy. That makes sense though that the more rope under you the more friction there would be on the device, so you have no friction when you need it most

  • @marcusjohnson9857
    @marcusjohnson9857 2 года назад

    Great video, always happy to know that my gear is super good enough!

  • @smithboy4309
    @smithboy4309 2 года назад +1

    I don’t even climb and I love this channel lol

  • @wildpack88
    @wildpack88 2 года назад

    “Is that our tail doing just fine over here.” Excellent line!

  • @AaronAlso
    @AaronAlso 2 года назад +3

    Ryan, I would really like to see you test Whoopie and Loopie slings. (Arborist industry) Would be nice to know if they are as strong as I've been told. Like the eye splice video maybe you could find someone to demonstrate the right way to make them; then test them.

  • @feluver
    @feluver 2 года назад +38

    FYI, you can certainly calculate whether there is a statistically significant difference from those sample sizes (referencing the wet vs dry ggplot boxplots). A simple t-test will do here. And there is definitely a difference (easily seen in the BWP). This is likely a big part of why these warnings are present. I agree with all of your downstream comments, but maybe consult a statistician to help you with concise interp/experimental design?

    • @johnsmith34
      @johnsmith34 2 года назад +10

      Statistics doesn't have a concept of "definite." If you did dress up what is essentially backyard science with "statistical significance," then people could gain unfounded confidence in the result because they don't understand the trappings of the methods used.

    • @feluver
      @feluver 2 года назад +5

      @@johnsmith34 statistics as a field most certainly has a concept of definite answers ("critical regions" come to mind first). It's actually the point of statistical tests to make definite statements from data.

    • @feluver
      @feluver 2 года назад +5

      @@johnsmith34 also, there is no rule saying that science can't take place in a backyard last I checked.

    • @thepengwn77
      @thepengwn77 2 года назад +4

      @@feluver The problem with getting statistics involved is that this Ryan's tests aren't designed to cover all possible scenarios and therefore the statistical significance isn't generalizable.
      You can certainly say "In Ryan's drop tower, using Decker, this specific rope, tied with this specific knot dropped from this specific height, we saw a statistically significant difference." But anything more than that is no longer covered by the data.
      Ryan's tests are mostly useful to know if something is "way off". Not if something is slightly different.

    • @feluver
      @feluver 2 года назад +5

      @@thepengwn77 those are called "limitations". They're not problems. They're an omnipresent part of research. Part of presenting research is clearly presenting its limitations, as Ryan is careful to do. This really has nothing to do with statistics. Your argument could easily be made about qualitative reasoning as well.

  • @elrokk666
    @elrokk666 2 года назад

    Was looking forward to this video! Thanks!

  • @alexstarr1589
    @alexstarr1589 2 года назад +4

    I might have missed it. Were all the ropes brand new? Seemed like the difference between the first drop test and the second was pretty consistently higher forces in the second. That might just be due to the rope losing some elasticity from the first fall.
    Did knots seem like they got tighter with the wet ropes? I wonder if with less friction they can get tighter and pinch/bend the rope more.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +5

      Yes. They were new
      Knots absorb some fall. 2nd fall had cinched knots.

  • @ReadySetGoPictures
    @ReadySetGoPictures 2 года назад +1

    Love these videos. Was nervous in my early days of rappelling near a waterfall (not climbing) in fear that the rope would break because of a damp/wet rope. or that the grigri would slip easier.

  • @cXilion
    @cXilion 2 года назад

    stop worrying so much about random comments under your videos. your work is amazing. such good knowledge as a climber!!

  • @ulrichnelson
    @ulrichnelson 2 года назад +1

    My guy in the grey is wearing the best layer ever, the Outdoor Research Ascendant Hoody!! Such a shame they discontinued it...

  • @tomgnyc
    @tomgnyc 2 года назад

    Here's an engineers educated guess. One of the important factors in rope stretch is internal friction. Specifically, the friction between the individual rope strands. Wetting the rope reduces the friction between the strands and allows the rope to stretch more given the same force. The longer it stretches the faster it will get to its breaking point (past it's elastic deformation, into plastic deformation, and finally to breakage). Hence a weaker rope.

  • @jameslochhead5950
    @jameslochhead5950 2 года назад

    It’s good to see you that you are using the metric kn
    Metric for the win😊

  • @matthewgough9533
    @matthewgough9533 2 года назад +1

    "Satisfy the mob"... I died.

  • @Roddlerson
    @Roddlerson 2 дня назад

    Love the channel. Previously have had gear fear for a number of elements in my anchor systems. Is there a video testing personal anchor systems wet versus dry? Thanks for the science.

  • @MichaelFairhurst
    @MichaelFairhurst 2 года назад +3

    So stoked to see the drop tower put up to this. Huge payoff for us, your viewers, from all of your hard work!! Stoked to see this put to the test.

  • @ItsSamToYou
    @ItsSamToYou Год назад

    I've always been told that wet ropes aren't necessarily weaker, but if you weight them while they are wet, then then the rope gets significantly more worn then if you let them dry first. I have a rope where it started raining while we were climbing and by the time we were all off the wall we were lowering off of a totally soaked rope, luckily we really only needed to use one side of it. I still have the rope and checking it it's still in good condition and I've been using it regularly for many more months, but the half we used while wet is now super soft and feels close to core shot while the side that did not get weighted is still fairly stiff. I can't think of anything else that I may have done with the rope to leave it as unevenly worn as it is.

  • @joshuajaydan
    @joshuajaydan 2 года назад

    Finally found the discount code. Thanks!

  • @kensmith8832
    @kensmith8832 2 года назад +1

    In braided rawhide, the fibers need to be lubed to be strong. Round braids move as they tighten to clamp to the core. Rope makers have a treatment of the rope to self lube the fibers. In this case water and ice will lube the fibers. The idea is to reduce the friction factor on the fibers in ropes. For the drop tests, what was the outside temperature and humidity during the tests?

  • @Underbottom.Sandydown
    @Underbottom.Sandydown 2 года назад +1

    I don't need a money clip, I have a beard trimmer, I don't play video games, being a Scottish lord sounds un-American and I think all the headphones in ads are terrible. Rockie Talkies however.... that's something I might actually buy - thank you for not working a manscaped ad into your puns and showing me something that might actually help me :)

  • @rweaver90
    @rweaver90 2 года назад +1

    “Aw that things PISSIN all over my slack snap machine. JUST THE WAY I LIKE IT!”

  • @CandC68
    @CandC68 2 года назад +1

    I'm no climber so ignore me, but....
    1) How does the "wet" affect friction? I believe friction is a factor in various applications. Rappelling, and friction knots. ie- When will a Prussik slip?
    2) The video is useful in the real world. The end user should be alerted to possible variations in performance. The manufacturers give warning to introduce "wetness" for any injury when using their product.

  • @Tippycanoee
    @Tippycanoee 2 года назад

    Commenting for the algorithm. Love the videos

  • @Pseudoswede
    @Pseudoswede Год назад

    3:45 It’s so nice when content creators bow to the almighty algorithm above all else, just like is commanded of them…

  • @XVIIsionsProductions
    @XVIIsionsProductions Год назад

    I’d like to see the wet rope test done using various devices to see what the effects are, not necessarily on rope strength but on the effectiveness or lack thereof of each device on a wet rope. Like using a prusik, Grigri, ascender, Micro traction, etc.

  • @buckmanriver
    @buckmanriver 2 года назад

    exceptional video!

  • @climbing200
    @climbing200 2 года назад +3

    Hey Ryan, been looking for the code for the rocky talkies, and I know a few other guys have too, but I think they got lost in the comments. Is it still up?

    • @climbing200
      @climbing200 2 года назад

      Also, thanks for all you do. Keep up the fantastic work

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +1

      Its in the Beal Ice Line product page on www.extremegear.org/ shhhhhhhh :)

  • @fathershellnut2108
    @fathershellnut2108 2 года назад

    i woke up to this video, not to intrested in climbing, but rn im very invested

  • @lleberghappy
    @lleberghappy 2 года назад +6

    Hurray for the box plots! 16:39
    💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰
    They do show an 11 & 15% weaker break force for wet ropes on the averages. Although more data is would be more solid.
    This also shows why a safety ratio is important, because you can loose a bunch of strength to different factors.

    • @elvishfiend
      @elvishfiend 2 года назад

      I'm no statistician, but how TF does he get upper and lower quartiles when there's only 3 samples of each?! it's completely meaningless for that small a sample size.

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад

      Where else is "a bunch" of strength lost...? Other than by tying-in? 🤣

  • @devinhowells1727
    @devinhowells1727 2 года назад

    Great video.

  • @jackbarrett8100
    @jackbarrett8100 Год назад

    I'm not a climber but you are doing the lords work for climbers everywhere

  • @jameswaite1146
    @jameswaite1146 2 года назад +5

    with the figure 8 tail length debate, could you shock load some with tower to see if it has an impact in that scenario

    • @Deckzwabber
      @Deckzwabber 2 года назад

      I would like to see that too please.
      I was taught not to leave it too long (about the length of the knot itself), or it might get stuck in a belay device, or get caught in a rock crack, or just generally cause some sort of unwanted interference with whatever. But my friends who have started to climb more recently have learned to leave it about two knots long.

    • @TheSubieFan
      @TheSubieFan 2 года назад

      @@Deckzwabber If my knot is too long I tie my safety then tuck my tail into the knot or Yosemite finish the knot.

  • @therflash
    @therflash 2 года назад +5

    Yes, yes. But does a wet rope unlock a locking biner faster?

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад

      hahahahahahahahahaha

  • @emelent6605
    @emelent6605 2 года назад +1

    super good enough for the algorithm.

    • @emelent6605
      @emelent6605 2 года назад

      Can you please drop test badly/loosely knotted figure eight and bowline knots. How bad/loose/ugly do they have to be to not be super good enough anymore.

  • @tc_wat
    @tc_wat 2 года назад +2

    I'm curious if having the wet ropes coiled before testing helped with their performance. They weren't pre-streched from use and had some stretch available to soften the falls. I wonder if the danger of a wet rope is the slow stretch recovery that would lead to increasingly harder catches over time? Maybe sling a wet rope over the drop tower with some small weight on the ends for a period of time to simulate some pre-stretch scenario before drop testing.
    Thanks for all your hard work. Love your channel. Ignore the haters.

    • @largeformatlandscape
      @largeformatlandscape 2 года назад

      Wet rope recovery could well be the issue. trying to suck air back into a wet rope might well be a LOT harder than sucking air back into a dry rope

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад

      So that is why we did 2 of each drop test and since we weren't getting huge changes in the results I'm not sure recovery is that different but i don't know

    • @kadmow
      @kadmow 2 года назад

      @@largeformatlandscape - - the "rain" that came out of the "wet rope" means that the second test is essentially with a dry rope. so "sucking in air" may not be a problem. Fibre Fusion from friction at the limit is likely a greater reason why elasticity "may" vary over time, or between falls.
      NB. If we are using ropes anywhere near their MBS for human safety activities there is something really wrong with the rigging (Factor of safety is for a reason - fatigue and miscalculation). take care, enjoy.

    • @largeformatlandscape
      @largeformatlandscape 2 года назад

      @@kadmow Even if a lot of water comes out, water will fill all of the interstitial spaces and hence when the rope tries to relax, the channels which would have allowed air back into the rope are filled with water. This seems to make little differences as the second test wasn't much different

  • @cheesecurd100s
    @cheesecurd100s 2 года назад +2

    Fireball tool did a similar test with ratchet straps and didn't find any difference either

    • @cheesecurd100s
      @cheesecurd100s 2 года назад

      ruclips.net/video/ifyJjQXOttE/видео.html
      Test wet straps at 11 minutes

  • @alexli14_
    @alexli14_ 2 года назад

    a lot of plastic like nylon can absorb moisture from their environment over an extended period of time often this causes it to become more brittle or affect wear cycling it would be interesting to look at the difference at longer exposure to see what that affect water absorbed into the material itself has compared to water that has been sucked into the inter fiber spaces like a sponge

  • @cheesecurd100s
    @cheesecurd100s 2 года назад +4

    Maybe they're more worried about damage from being put away wet?
    Could you leave a rope wet in the gaeage for a few months?
    I'm wondering if uv damage from the sun has more an effect? Maybe try one after being baked in a tanning bed? How much does being used in the elements effect rope degradation?

    • @Pants13
      @Pants13 2 года назад +3

      I imagine the smell of a rope that got put away wet is gonna be bad enough.

    • @cheesecurd100s
      @cheesecurd100s 2 года назад +1

      @@Pants13 yeah I've had moldy rope before lol

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад

      If you're seeing visible molding, just run it through the washing machine.
      You can leave wet ropes in caves for a decade without noteable issues.... It's actually funny to see how many folks are oblivious to the other roped sports out there lololol

  • @Fehenis
    @Fehenis 2 года назад +3

    Awesome video! Could you maybe add the metric measurements for the next time for non-US viewers? Imperial just doesn't do it for me 🙃

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +3

      Too many numbers on a screen makes it more difficult to retain the information. The % is all that matters and my tape measure had inches and my luggage scale had lbs so that is why we used them.

    • @ayrendraganas8686
      @ayrendraganas8686 2 года назад

      @@HowNOT2 fair!

    • @kadmow
      @kadmow 2 года назад +1

      @@HowNOT2 - great response - thanks for the content. one could just standardise on coke cans (weights and measures) (then one could argue between; 300, 330, 355, and 375ml versions)
      (most of the old English empire sort of get by with all types of scales and measures depending on the situation or industry)

  • @MrByped
    @MrByped 2 года назад +2

    What if your rope already had knots that had been loaded and then got wet does the rope swell effect the already tight knots strength. love the gear break series keep up the awesome work

    • @elmeradams8781
      @elmeradams8781 2 года назад

      I'd be willing to bet it makes no difference. Even the swelling from freezing the rope is nothing compared to how deformed the knots get when pulling so hard.
      I could be wrong though.

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад

      If knots getting wet were dangerous, canyoneers and cavers would be dead.

  • @serges201
    @serges201 2 года назад +9

    I heard wet ropes are fine on the 1st fall but then fail to recover their dynamic properties (so a 2nd fall is harder)

  • @deucemoose7852
    @deucemoose7852 8 месяцев назад

    I know this is way past timely for this video, but coming at this from a complete non-climber's perspective, I do a fair bit of fishing and most of our lines are nylon (either single strand/monofilament or braided) and those lines will begin to wear out after about 2 years of regular use (i.e. you want to replace the bulk of your spool after that amount of time) because the nylon will absorb water and dirt and will begin to degrade (you can sometimes see this with colored lines rubbing off micro-plastic dust just from light finger friction while reeling in an unloaded line). Such lines are more susceptible to snapping under sudden load and to abrasion (which seems broadly comparable to what might break a rope in a worst case scenario).
    Given that, my concern would be that a rope getting wet and drying regularly over a longer period of time might indeed weaken a rope more than one that was being stored inside a reasonably conditioned building, but I don't think that would be any more apparent in the kind of worst case scenario that such a warning entails. Seems like as long as you're replacing gear at regular, common sense intervals, the effects of water on nylon should be negligible. But maybe there's some material scientists that think otherwise.

  • @angelvis9
    @angelvis9 2 года назад +1

    The "...everything is better when it's wet" part 😂😂😂

  • @dipolifom
    @dipolifom 2 года назад

    Commenting for algorithm, leaving a like, and many thanks, for everything you do

  • @wyominghistorychannel1361
    @wyominghistorychannel1361 2 года назад

    I loved this video.

  • @caesarmagallon5626
    @caesarmagallon5626 2 года назад

    Thank you

  • @ariefnagara
    @ariefnagara 2 года назад +5

    It never made sense to me that H2O would dangerously weaken a rope. But a question is whether moulds would produce enzymes that would eat at petroleum based fibers in a way that was significant. Hard to test, but coming from Indonesia, the fear was that humidity and water could conspire to weaken ropes. Any way to test ropes left wet in a bag in a humid state for, say a month?

    • @julestownsend1042
      @julestownsend1042 2 года назад

      This is interesting

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад +1

      Cavers have done some tests with this because we will leave permanently rigged ropes in caves for upwards of a decade (...and caves are wet). There has yet to be any significant findings.
      Derek Bristol has some pull tests of some ropes that were rigged for 10+ yrs in caves, several with visible quantities of mold on them. You can find the video on his RUclips channel (search "Derek Bristol" and it's on one of his vertical playlists).
      Now, copious amounts of bird shit on your ropes? Yeah that could be a problem. A graduate student in Dr. Hazel Barton's lab at University of Akron is working on studying that.
      TLDR: you're fine-- trust me, caving is 100x's more abusive

    • @julestownsend1042
      @julestownsend1042 2 года назад

      @@rachelhasbruises Wow, really cool. Thank you!

    • @ariefnagara
      @ariefnagara 2 года назад

      @@rachelhasbruises Yeah, I did see some of the tests they did on extremely old ropes in caves. I guess I'm most interested in something in between--what's most common for climbers being stuff like leaving a damp rope in a bag for a couple of weeks by mistake, for instance. Does that mean the rope should be thrown away (as many climbers will advise). There was some test that one of the rope companies did in the late 80s that was talked about a lot back then--where a rope that was rated for 8 falls was kept in a drawer in good conditions (no UV or humidity) for 10 years and supposedly it broke on the first fall. So the idea was that nylon deteriorates with time regardless of conditions. But It always seemed to me that ropes made of petroleum based products were probably not succeptable to fungus-caused deterioration as the fungus would probably just feed on the moisture and organic material perhaps embedded in the rope but not eat into the plastic/nylon itself...

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад

      @@ariefnagara I think you're really missing the big picture.
      ...you don't think that ropes being stored in caves for decades isn't a 1000x more extreme version of your damp bag idea?
      Caves are wet. What is wet literally never dries because the ambient humidity underground is extremely high (like... 90% or something).
      Aboveground, your rope will dry out long before any microbes make significant colonization that would impact strength even in the slightest...

  • @jaypea8103
    @jaypea8103 2 года назад +1

    It may just be my misunderstanding, but it's possible you may not necessarily be comparing apples to apples. A couple of tests that would have been interesting would be to test the elongation after the drop tower for all three ropes in testing, as well as subsequent water retention / weight. The big unknown question remains: if your rope got significantly saturated and took a fall when should you retire it

  • @harlanstockman5703
    @harlanstockman5703 2 года назад +2

    In the uiaa tests, all the breakage occurs over a rounded metal edge, which is supposed to represent the last piece of protection. Can you add a similar edge in your system? The metal edge is essentially supposed to be a 1 cm steel biner.

  • @samsondrake41
    @samsondrake41 2 года назад

    This is a cool vid! had the same question.

  • @grrsrrwolfPr0duct1on
    @grrsrrwolfPr0duct1on 2 года назад

    This would look really cool if you did a colab with The SlowMo Guys!
    Really cool video!

  • @natebracalente2754
    @natebracalente2754 2 года назад

    I loved the segway to the sponsor lol reminded me of linus tech tips channel

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад

      I guess that is where i've seen that done haha

  • @liver5889
    @liver5889 2 года назад +3

    Went through all the rope specs and couldn’t find the code. Anyone find it?

    • @alexnone5720
      @alexnone5720 2 года назад

      I couldn't find it either

    • @climbing200
      @climbing200 2 года назад

      Hey guys, I found it, but for the sake of the game I'll just say it's not 'in' the tech specs, it's below the tech specs titled 'Discount Code'.
      Also, a nightmare to find if you aren't using a laptop

    • @alexnone5720
      @alexnone5720 2 года назад

      ice line. The website was slow on the update to show the code

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад

      Beal Ice Line

  • @zdm5290
    @zdm5290 2 года назад +1

    So... in 3D printing, we use dehydration ovens to pull the water out of our filaments so they print properly. Assuming nylon continues drawing water in through its life, could dehydrating an old rope cause higher yield figures, essentially restoring a rope?
    Edit: also, I learned that dry treatments don't do all that much for the rope weight/water absorption. Thanks!

  • @103troy
    @103troy 2 года назад +1

    hey could you revisit this with 11mm static ropes?? rope access peeps would love to see it. thank you if so

  • @danielsavage1101
    @danielsavage1101 2 года назад

    You guys should do one more wet rope case. Freeze the waterlogged rope... Recently had ropes freeze up while ice climbing to the point that they almost were too stiff to rap.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +1

      We tested frozen ropes. link in bio

  • @goodall18
    @goodall18 2 года назад

    1:05 genuinely shook at how easy those scissors went through that rope

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +2

      They are speciality scissors we use to cut UHMDPE (dyneema, amsteel etc) which is quite difficult to cut otherwise.

    • @goodall18
      @goodall18 2 года назад

      @@HowNOT2 and now my heart can resume normal bpm.

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад

      Have you ever watched videos of cutting a loaded rope? Shit goes through it like butter :)

  • @andrewj5988
    @andrewj5988 2 года назад

    Hey Ryan I'm sure there's a comment in here somewhere covering this topic but... I think the only thing can really be a concern with wet ropes is that wet ropes do not retract as quickly after being stretched. So I would imagine that repeated falls could produce harder and harder catches.

  • @user-lk9jr1ki9c
    @user-lk9jr1ki9c 2 года назад

    If you really want to get nerdy… you can plot the data as a stress strain graph to get the Young’s modulus to calculate the stiffness and derive the peak force the rope can withstand and compare that to your drop test. You would need to take more data points on the tension puller, but idk of the juice is worth the squeeze

  • @charlimargar
    @charlimargar 2 года назад

    Very interesting video!! Could be good to know what happen with low stretch ropes in canyoning.

  • @staleyexplores
    @staleyexplores 2 года назад

    the soft shackle design should be around your torso or around your arms, just a random idea, hope it helps you sell more shirts!

  • @twinmike1
    @twinmike1 2 года назад +1

    Save money, get stronger , buy the non dry treated rope. That said if it is freezing, a wet rope freezes and that really sucks.

  • @Govanification
    @Govanification 2 года назад

    Comementing for the algorithm, and this is super interesting. Just like most climbing gear, if you're using it in a realistic manner it's super good enough and you'll likely hurt yourself before breaking the gear!

  • @MrMoZkit0
    @MrMoZkit0 2 года назад +1

    Really interesting video, as always.
    And I would love to buy the Rocky-talkie but they don't ship to Sweden :( It sucks

  • @adamreynolds3863
    @adamreynolds3863 2 года назад

    I think you guys should test different other types of rope, wet and dry, on the drop tower. Anyway very good video, keep it up!

  • @paulcrave3112
    @paulcrave3112 2 года назад +1

    I made a comment and I hit the like button.

  • @celticknotbrain
    @celticknotbrain 2 года назад

    Here is one more comment to help with the algorithm. I really thought the ropes were going to be on sale! I need rope! Great video as always.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  2 года назад +1

      You can still buy them :) hhaha

  • @kevinsimard
    @kevinsimard 2 года назад +1

    Great video. I have to admit I would have rather seen tests on 11mm static rope.
    I've had rope technicians refuse to work on wet ropes. They were claiming I was putting their life in danger. Note this has only happened once and I was able to get them back to work after a long debate but now I have #s to throw at them.
    You think you would get similar results on 11mm static - semi static ropes?
    Thx

  • @GarryNichols
    @GarryNichols 2 года назад +1

    I think a rope getting wet is NOT really a problem. The point is really Nylon that has absorbed moisture over time will behave differently. That is moisture with age and not being stored properly in a dry place. Washing ropes after each use is actually a very good thing just make sure it's dried properly before storing.

    • @rachelhasbruises
      @rachelhasbruises 2 года назад

      I can't imagine how tedious someone must be to wash their aboveground ropes after each use. 🤣 Can you come wash my caving gear while you're at it?

  • @edwardbarton1680
    @edwardbarton1680 2 года назад

    The real lesson from the UIAA tests sounds like it's "once a rope has saved your life in a bad drop, replace it".