Lab Test - How Soft is too Soft? How Fuzzy is too Fuzzy?
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- Опубликовано: 6 мар 2022
- What happens if your Climbing Rope has a Soft Spot and that spot hits your Carabiner exactly on the peak force on a hard Rock Climbing Fall?
Had pleasure to nerd with Rope experts from @mammut
Ep2. • Cut Resistance of Clim...
Also Huge thanks to Hanna for coming over and helping me to film this:
/ banana___hana
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Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason that allows me do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
♫ Music for my videos comes from
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Man this content is next level. I don't even image how much time and preparation it goes through to make these videos. The editing, the analytical parts, the comedy bits... They aren't just informative, they are super fucking entertaining to watch. You are one of the main reasons why I started to climb at 30yo (and I always been crazy afraid of heights). Thank you and props to you man! You are just killing it!
Ah welcome to Climbing & enjoy the journey! ;) And thanks for killer comment!
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Once again - this channel combined with HowNOT2 is like my bible of how far I can push my gear. Great video!
Me two
Bigtime
The Mammut staff are amazing, friendly people. I love how open and informative they are. Great video dude, and thank you!
Love Mammut they helped me move transformers there team are just amazing!!!! So cool to see this side of the company!!!
I thought "sad that it was so short". Now I realized that the 2 minute video was over 20 minutes.
Amazing that you are such a lovely nerdy one with the ability to explain physics that even I can understand
This stuff is educational, informative, and funny. BBC worthy.
Really good research and answers to questions that probably every climber faces! Personally, I wasn't a big fan of all the switching between the different interviews/experiments. I realize it's probably to create some kind of cliffhanger effects to hold the attention. But to be honest, I found it a bit confusing at times and would have preferred to just watch the different things in one piece 🤷🏻♂
Thanks for that! And yea it's always tricky to present info in a way that keeps attention in this speedy world. Would be boring if I just showed 10 drops in a row. I could also just show the end result quicker, but some like to have more info... yeah... tricky
@@HardIsEasy Not saying one is right and one is wrong, but me on the other hand really loved the way you presented it! So now you have all kinds of feedback ;) :p
@@HardIsEasy Same here! I really enjoyed your editing on this video! Appreciate your content
I liked it the way you made it :)
@@HardIsEasy I too really enjoyed this pace!
Really great video. Love the engineers and technicians all giving their informed takes on the likely results (and I like knowing that they are pretty good at it). I feel like it's the first time I have ever had a real understanding how bad a soft spot is related to core shot and desheathed rope is in terms of safety.
The mammut falltower employer seems like a really cool guy.
I tell you, he is 😅💕
Props to mammut R&D for learning new stuff thanks to hard is easy
This is the best climbing related channel on RUclips!
I love the face of the guy who cut the rope... no feelings, just science
Yea I guess he did that to many times already :DDDD
Incredible. This is so thorough and how cool for Mammut to offer so much time and equipment to test their ropes so publicly! Will the next video deal with ropes over sharper rock edges? Watching my rope go over an edge makes me more nervous than anything else. Thank you, everyone, so much for the informative video!
Cat MVP helping the community with scientific answers! But really, great work. Such high quality and incredibly valuable information, keep up the amazing work!
Great video - EVERY climber should watch this, fun, practical experimentation... I would have retired that rope but interestingly it would still have done it's job!
sick! I know this wasnt an advert and most climping ropes are rigourously tested, but im happy ive got a mammut rope in my bag haha
Thank you! I understand that for sensational purposes it would have been good if there would have been an unexpected potentially dangerous outcome. But my take away is that I am completely right in trusting my life to my rope with all types of rock and all types of fall. As long as it it's not extremely damaged it will still save me. And, that is the second take away, the reason for ropes being so remarkably fantastic is that they are created by really smart (and nice) people!
Great vid! Also props to Mammut, seem like great guys
What a great video!! Actually game me some real big confidence in Mammut! I didn't know they were that rooted into climbing history! Also crazy to see the abrasion difference with a dry vs non dry treated rope.
The footage of the threads "dancing" and tearing apart is really freaking awesome looking. Really cool shot/footage!
This is the info that every climber is lloking for. Thank you for this contentent!
To answer if a rope can die, once must decide if a rope can live, for to die is to no longer be living. RIP, dearest rope.
Commenting for the intro alone, holy smokes that was cool!
Had huge quality issues with Mammuts rucksacks and clothing - glad to see they really take care of the development of their gear. I liked your video a lot it was very fresh, funny and easy to watch!
never had any issues with equipment from mammut but tbh I only got the high end stuff but f.e. the mosqueton carabiners are crazy
My favorite backpacks are Mammuts. Have lasted me many years of heavy outdoor use.
I don't even rock climb, but I can't stop watching this stuff. I do use ropes a lot though for hunting from trees. This channel has been very helpful.
Thanks you so much for coming back, you videos are the best! One of the most incredible RUclipsr ever!
Awesome video and amazing intro. Thanks for the effort. Very well done!
thats it im sold i want a mammot rope haha this wasn't suppose to be an add but I bought into it all. love it all. great video.
0:53 As an electrician and before I watch further, if someone told me a cable bent like that I would tell them to unplug it and even cut it before throwing it in the bin so nobody can use it. It means the mechanical strength is gone and the layers loosened up around each other, making it look like a sausage down the hallway in cross-section of both the strands and sheath.
I always watch yout videos in 4k on my TV. The production quality of your videos is so good, the editing and I learn something new everytime. Really enjoyed it and I will happily wait for the next video release!
The mammut team seems so nice to be around too.
Thanks for that, Yea Mammut guys were a lot of fun and great info
Oh yes it was so much fun to be around 🥰
I haven't really done much climbing, and no climbing using ropes and pulleys and whatever. But I have a few ropes, climbing ropes, that someone threw in the dumpster, when I lived in the Rockies. And I still have them, and they don't look particularly worn. But this helps to be able to tell in some extent.
quality content ben! such a nice move from mammut to test this experiment
Holy crap this was an amazing video. First the beautiful rope abrasion shot and then Q&A with experts on common questions and then an amazing drop tower test result!
You seemed like a kid in a candy store ahahah, awesome vid as always
Haha, yea it was like that :D So much interesting stuff they have there...
@@HardIsEasy ahahah yeah, if I went there I’d never want to leave
Best video on ropes I’ve seen from your channel. Your videos are giving me confidence in my climbing gear
Seeing the drop tests and looking at the table at 19:46 there's one thing that wasn't explained in the video.
The engineer pointed out that repeat falls on 6/8 strands resulted in greater force measurements because the strands are getting less elastic with each test, which makes a lot of sense. But when the core strands (and the sheath) break the force is measured to be smaller, and someone quips that to get a soft fall just break your rope! The reason why these drops are softer is because fewer strands means that there's more force on each individual strand, which stretches them out further, and the longer the rope stretches (more precisely, the longer time the rope spends stretching since F = dp/dt) the smaller the force and the softer the fall.
You wouldn't make a rope that stretched this far though, both because as seen in the video the weight almost hits the bottom of the test chamber, and because the further you stretch and elastic material from its neutral state the more you damage it. A climbing rope can take getting stretched out 20-30% hundreds of times, but stretch it to its limit even once and it'll be permanently damaged.
Great video and massive thanks to Mammut for allowing this test in their facility! Really interesting and informative.
Very nice video! Very informative and always nice to have experts answering such questions! 👍🏻
Amazing video as usual! I recently bought a rope and am just getting into sport climbing, this answers so many of the questions I had about my rope.
Another great video! Thank you for all the time you put in to make these.
I love science, I love climbing, I really love your videos!!!
You're getting better and better, your editing increased and the topics are becomming more interesting every videos.
Tanks you!
Excellent video--best yet! Very informative. I know you focus on sport climbing, but in rescue work we often used ropes that were either static or far less dynamic. Might be an interesting area to look at in terms of testing.
I enjoyed this video and thought your formatting was okay! Very interesting to hear about rope construction. Watching these tests and explanations from actual experts (instead of gym scientists) gave me a lot of confidence in my safety.
This is so good! Talking to the manufacturers gave so many answers, loved those interviews. (And thanks for the behind the scenes of your intro, was actually curious how you did it. Definitely worth it, cool shot)
Amazing videos! Thank you so much for put this effort in the channel
Fantastic, always learn so much from you! Thank you
love these videos. glad I got a mammut rope for my first ever rope : D
Wow!!! So in depth and we appreciate it.
I was needing this video! Thanks!
This episode was super awesome! Thank you.
Thank you for this! Exactly what i needed to know.
All I can say is that this is excellent content. I did not search for this video, but I am so impressed by what I learned.
Hi Ben just found your channel. There is so much information here, thank you and Mammut for your hard work. God bless
Love the intro, very cinematic qualities.
Thanks for the informant and improved production quality
Amazing video! Tks to share!
I love these kinds of experiments. I bet it was also an interesting learning experience for the testers just as it is for the viewers.
Yay, I'm about to be the proud owner of several very short ropes!! Time to by a new rope 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This video was next level. Every climber should be required to watch this before buying their first rope!
The intro animation was super cool!
These videos just keep getting better! I see you upgraded your camera equipment 😍. The close up shots were so freaking sharp!
Great Video! These makro shots are insane 😍
just iPhone... few more years and the stuff we can make with little devices and AI will be unimaginable
I saw it at the end of the Video and thought the same 😂
Amazing work and very informative, wanting to work in a company developing gear this is pure gold.
Thanks for doing this! I have to say the Mammut management and tech folks are to be commended - they went out on a limb here conducting some super interesting but somewhat not well designed experiments and allow us some insight into corporate rational for how they make ropes.
BTW, my first rope (1974) was a Mammut, I've had many other brands since but usually I'm climbing on a Mammut.
Soooo good to hear expert considerations
Nice Ben! n good to see Hanna too. Thought you both were great climbers, but I see you finally introduced the best 8a climber on the block. Meow :)
Super informative! That was a great watch
I just discovered your channel. I’m a saddle hunter which is a type of hunting where climbing tools and technique are of great importance. If you don’t already you should make sure to have keywords for your videos to include some hunting terms, as I’m sure much of the saddle hunting community would love to see these videos! Good stuff!
Oh wow, this was SO incredibly usefull! Thanks!
Sick intro! Keep up the good work 💪🏼
Was deciding between petzl and mammut for my next alpine rope. Mammut defo got my business this time😊
Really top video!! Keep on rocking!! 🚀
This is gold, can't wait for the next ones!
Thanks Gabriel, next one is in the making equally great!
This gives me much more understanding of my rope.
I literally cant rock climb and yet here I am. Must have been a great title/thumb 😂😂😂
This intro, man. Awesome!
Great vid thanks! I would love to see a video about weight differences in belayer/climber. I weigh 84kg and my GF weighs 50kg. Best options I have found are a weight bag and Petzl Ohm. I would love to see testing on the options.
Thanks! And what you ask is on my list ;)
@@HardIsEasy OK thank you. If I could be so bold I have another comment :) In the last few vids you have commented a lot about the force to climber but how about force to the pro? I am more concerned about the pro than I am about me :)
You need to check out hownot2. He break tests soooo much stuff, bolts, karabiners, ropes, slings, nuts, cams etc etc
@@chrishughes3405 Yeah I love his channel too. Just fun stuff there. I have seen all his vids but he doesnt address either of my questions above.
Greg, the Ohm is by EDELRID, not Petzl.
Awesome video, thank you.
Thank you Ben and thank you Mammut!
I loved it, 4/5 stars, I felt the edit/changes a bit too fast, while it's entertaining, I feel like the concept doesn't stick as much, as you are putting attention to whatever is coming next. Although I admit it was fairly well strung together!
I am so glad that there is someone Like you out there. Not interested in selling stuff or do Advertisement. Just curious and interested in the scientific Background of the gear that we climbers trust our lives with. I learnt so much in your Videos about the physics of climbing that I could actually use at some points and each Video of you is just a pleasure to watch. Thank you for all the work that you do for us.
Great opportunity for you and great move from Mammut to actually invite you.
I would also be interested in the engineering differences between single Rope, half Rope and twin ropes. Hope your Second Video will Cover it ;)
Thanks Heinrich! Next video is about cut resistance of the ropes ;) With a tiny bit on double ropes vs single ropes.
Great video Ben!
Wow, Ben, just wow. The production quality is so high I'm impressed. You're doing a great job and you do it beautifully. I just wanna share every your video with all my climbing friends. Too bad they don't know English and convince me that it's ok to use really old ropes :c
bro was super hype
This vid was amazing!
Tracks with an experience I had as a young climber ~ A rope had been left out over night on a route at a very small, not well known crag (on a week night if it makes anyone feel any better) and we came back for it in the morning. Having whipped in basically the same spot repeatedly the previous day (on an older, already fuzzy, rope) there was an obvious "soft" spot but we didn't think much of it and thought it was fine, as I went back up and finished off the route on that same rope, being rested from the day before. HOWEVER when I clipped the anchor and hopped off the route (more aggressive than sitting back but not the same force as a fall) the sheath tore almost completely in the same spot as before as it pulled over the anchor. Lowered to the ground safely and proceeded to cut 10m off the end of the rope (given that the cliff was 30f) and called it a day. Stay safe out there y'all!
Fascinating.
This video is just amazinggggggg
Really informative and great that Mammut gave you the time for making this. I just joined so you can continue to make great videos (and I"m not a climber :-/ )
Thank You so much, so nice to read your message!
thank you for that great job 👍
impecable bro
best climbing RUclips channel
Great Video! Thx
Thank you so much for making these videos! Finally someone could answer the questions that I couldn't find any satisfying answers to yet. I'm really psyched for the next episodes. Keep going👌🔥
Great editing!
Perfect timing! Last week I was wondering if I should change my rope yet or not .. Thanks!
PS: Never been first before lol Your videos are awesome and very helpful! Cheers!
Normally I never drink more than 1 coffee at home... but he today's I drink to because of you😅🤣
This is a really cool series. It's interesting that although there are robust factory standards, there is not much in regards to real world application. The climbing/mountaineering world is so complicated to outsiders and it seems a lot of information even from top manufacturers is very hidden or difficult to understand. Thanks for exploring the questions so many have asked in a useful and real world scientific way!
Thank you! I have more of that coming ;)
That was extremely interesting!
great video guys thanks!! I had two ropes with completely separated sheath that I used many times. Some of my friends did not like it and the last one I had no choice of other partners so I had to retire it. :( But great to see how much strength is in these core strands in a video so I can send it to them. Maybe I can bring the rope back out again!
A very interesting video, we used to hang from from an old rope and cut it strand by strand. A single strand would hold us but it would stretch more than a metre. The comment about about dry treated ropes being more abrasion resistant was a new one on me as I had been saying not to bother paying the extra for a dry treatment unless its being used for ice climbing.
Cool video 👌🏻