What breaks first?
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2022
- How strong are V threads? The rope in a loop is going to be strong enough to catch any whipper and be a 10:1 safety ratio to rappel on. The real question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 5 tests in this video and found the 6mm and 7mm ropes break when installing them with 21cm screws but the ice kept breaking at 14kN and 15kN with our 10mm rope until we put it in a giant v thread and found out we couldn't pull it to failure.
See our write up and spread sheet on our blog at www.hownot2.com/post/vthreads
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Sweet montage
00:28 V threads
03:04 Test #1
06:13 Test #2
08:26 Test #3
09:12 Test #4
10:09 A Thread vs V Thread
10:55 Test #5
12:33 Data Results
Ice Screw Tests at ruclips.net/video/Hy_W10xMrCM/видео.html and this blog and data is at www.hownot2.com/post/vthreads
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You are actually doing so much for spreading climbing knowledge and awareness, you should receive grants from alpine associations.
He doesn’t need alpine associations. We can donate directly to him, simply because we like the work 😊
That way we cut out the middlemen.
True, but doesn't mean he can't be supported by both.@@winterroadspokenword4681
Would love to see two follow ups:
- what about 16 cm screws ?
- test in some nice blue/transparent icefall ice
woo! thanks guys.
I would be super stoked to see this on water ice as well as 10-13cm a thread strength.
Beyond thankyou. I'm planning a trip to Greenland in 2024. Touch wood, we go around the problems & watch the world go by. But ... should we need to go up / down a glacier that we didn't expect, then confidence in how strong a v-thread is pretty high on the list of things to know.
Sounds interesting… can you make us dream and share a bit your plans?
Thank you so much Ryan! Been patiently waiting for this one!
Very much appreciate the ice videos. As an avid ice climber, who has taken a grand total of 1 ice fall ( system held!) I've wanted to see demos vs. reading about how/why screws fail. I will say that you chose excellent ice to test with, as opposed to the aerated, wet, brittle, plating, or other less than 'ideal' ice I've led in the past. Despite the test results, and my fall experience, I still will never trust ice. But still, great videos, much appreciated.
Nice job guys! Thank you💪😘
dope to see you testing on ice!
Cool stuff! Loved it
Great video!
It’d be cool if you tested snow anchors.
Bollard
T picket
Ice axe boot belay
I think he did test some snow anchors in another video
I think this the perfect channel for this issue: I feel like we as sportsclimbers destroy our holds by "polishing" them with our sweat and chalk. In the long term our grandchildren will have to climb polished holds without good friction. Can we as a climbing community avoid this? For example by making it a habit to clean all the holds after sending the route? Probably it is too much work and annoying for most climbers...
Or is there another way?
Looking forward to a discussion :)
You still can forbid use of chalk, as in many (sandstone) crags in CZ or DE :D
And honestly, when the rock has a good friction (most of jurassic limestone in Europe, or volcanic rocks), it's more of a habit than of a need.
Super surprised how strong those shallow looking v-threads were, though I'm no ice climber. Didn't expect even the 6mm cord to break before the ice
Part of me wonders how strong that drill bit would be as an ice screw with a little modification to the chuck end
Thanks!
Thankyou!
thanks! ♥
What about using a Velcro closure strap. Easy to remove/open the case, and easy/quick to close again? (I appreciate you needed a "Band-Aid" solution while in the field, but moving forward?)
You should go back and retest the DEEP A-thread using the Slack Snap. Should be fun hauling it out there.
Interesting experiments
Would love to see a comparison with Waterfall Ice, and a comparison V-thread and A-thread.
From memory, A-threads are meant to be marginally stronger, but they are both so strong that the difference between them in their intended application is kinda semantics. I go with A-threads because it's way easier to line it up correctly and therefore faster.
A metric inch 😅😆
want to see similar tests in 'normal' cliff ice with these ever so changing temperature climate ;-0)
Title shouldn't be "ropes vs ice, which breaks first", it's "ropes vs glacier ice..". Big diff!
Lee Vinning waterfall ice next
Why didn't you test the 8mm thread?🥺
The angle of that pull was not the angle of a fall? Still impressively strong.
Are you sure the measurements you’re getting are accurate? It looks like you have the safety line attached to the line scale, wouldn’t it measure the shock from being caught by its safety line?
i wonder why it'll be going away anyway
coat hanger > sweatshop made v thread tool
👌🏻
Interesting
Go waterfall ice!
Ice = transient
At 9:54 - A metric inch? - What is that?
25.4 mm
9:52 - "You had like, a metric inch." A metric inch? Must be an American thing.
The inch is defined by the metric system. The standard inches of the imperial system are, in a way, metric inches
This is some great engineering data. I like watching the interatomic bond being tested to the breaking point. I call this the interatomic bomb theory, which is a failure pun. Engineering jokes are only understood by a few.
I wanna buy a drill instead of ice screw.like yours.looks very fast to make a deep hole😅😅
Who invented V threads in ice?
What's a metric inch?? 😂
Well, it's an inch. Because as far as there where differents values accros the world they decide that the inch is exactly ...25.4 mm.
So metric system rules the inch !
that ice is not ideal
This is great content. I just had to take the chance to make the first comment.
These were used on lead climbing in Russia 20 + years ago, maybe more. Best vthread tool is a coat hanger.
If you bring a bud ass drill wgy don't you bring a come-a-long.
Why do you call them "V threads" instead of by their name, "Avalakovs"?