oh yeah...ive just done a full restore of floors and sills plus all suspension replaced and upgraded...easy enough but a lot of time needed to complete...its a labour of love to say the least. keep going and you will get there....your body looks pretty good with little rust.
That's awesome. Yes it's surprising how many components even a simple car is made up of. We're hoping to get some more progress on the car soon. Just ordering parts etc right now and the list keeps growing. Good luck with the rest of your project and keep going.
Take a look at the reinforcing plates for the rear differential mounting areas as they had a tendency to crack with flexing. It's an easy fix when the chassis is bare.
Hey Jamie - great project and I appreciate your expertise. Having done this exact same process on my 73 TR6 (which was equally rusted out) I enjoy watching you get in to the TR6. One note: I am not sure what medium you are using for "blasting" but I sent mine to a commercial sand blaster and, regrettably, the boot and bonnet panels came back with severe warping. In retrospect I should have ordered dry ice or other medium that might reduce the heat/pressure of sand blasting but I just wasn't educated. After 3 years my TR6 is a gem - fully restored and running good. Best of luck with yours and I will be watching!
Unfortunate blasting can be a little harsh on these old cars and can lead to warping. Have you checked one of my other videos on the Chevrolet Nova that I am also working on. That had some warpage, check it out. They also used different grades for different parts of the car. Water blasting is amazing but was double the price. Jamie
Good to see the bones of a TR6. I didn't know they had a chassis. Same set up as a Spitfire. Herald. Heavy car . Not a lot you can do to liten it. I had a 2500pi estate car. That engine could make that big loaded car move. You moving along good. Good luck. You got to find a flying jacket. Get the roof down in winter. Extra heaters under the seats. Heated seats. This was what it was built for.(The British Sports Car) Junk that hard top. Find a cloth top. I think Pirelli tyres work good on that car. But may have come with Goodyear from the factory. Softer rubber. I fitted tyres in that generation of car. Good luck.
Its amazing every time I take a car apart how many components they consist of. Its great with these that you can remove the body from the chassis. Heated seats would be a super addition I think so good tip. Then there is not excuse for roof down winter cruising. Haven't looked into tyre choice yet. I do like the look of the sprint classics though and have then on my Beetles. Thanks for watching and hope you continue to do so. Jamie
@@jamiedowson6482 yep back in the day. Pereli P6 was the ultimate tyre. Not cheap. But think they had Good year Eagle GTs..they was not a low profile tyre. I always liked the chunky tyre. Michelin ( can't remember what name) was a high miler tyre and hard rubber. Not good on these cars..you need traction.. maybe some ToYo. But mainly track tyre in the day. Good luck..
@@jamiedowson6482 ok so I had a read up. It's been 37 years since I fitted tyres. Lol. They left the factory with michelin XAS..but the owners didn't like them. Rubber to hard..they liked the Pereli P6 which is the Cinturo. Or some people went for the Goodyear HR Or even VR . None of these tyres were cheap in the day..but the Michelin was taken off the first week. Some would give me the tyres. I could sell off. Make some tea pot money. Lol. Hope that helps..
@@jamiedowson6482 maybe not to expensive. There is fifty times more competition than those days. If it was me I go for the Pereli P6. Maybe a better Pereli now. But it was developed as a racing tyre in those days. Or maybe ToYo . We had those on our racing MGBGTV8. Maybe they got a road legal one today. Good luck Guys.
Hi Jamie I like your Project , A friend of mine had a similar project a TR6 1972 a real bucket of rust but he stayed with it until the bitter end , I think it took him the most of twelve years to complete , but its areal Gem of a car now he spent a long time sourcing little bits and pieces for it , every thing possible from stem to stern , Had the engine block line bared for the camshaft so that he could have the Cam run on white metal bearings etc No stone unturned , so I hope you will the satisfaction of enjoying this Gem when its complete , at the moment I'm in the process of restoring a 1954 DKW Sonderklasse just started I have a lot of Parts sourced for the project , so I assume you are like me its great to have a challenge to be able to bring these Historic Cars back to original condition as good as the Manufacturer , Keep up the good work
These were defiantly know for their rust issues for sure like many cars of this era. Really nice that your friend had such a long term project and building a car for yourself can be like therapy. Your project sounds really cool I like the old DKW brand but have never owned or worked on any. Good luck with the build. Jamie
Great vid. Really envy your workshop facilities. Mines being worked on, on the drive for the last few years. Great content and good editing skills. May I suggest you watch Rusty Beauties, Ellin Yakov. He is a master at all things Triumph. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for your kind comment and glad you enjoy the videos. That's great to hear that you have a ongoing project also. Cant wait to get back on this TR6 and make more progress. I'll check out the channels you mentioned. Thanks for the tip. Jamie
Good video.Thanks. I will follow with interest. It looks like the front of the chassis has been strengthened by using the plates .. it might be worth adding more strength , especially if you are putting more power out by upgrading the engine. An LSD may also be sensible? The rear shock mod is ok but an up-rated damper can work well too. If you are going stainless be aware that not all manifolds are the same.. some are much better than others. Iirc the Gareth Thomas design is about as good as it gets.. but others may disagree..lol One question.. how the heck do you remember where all the nuts and bolts go back into place😂
Thanks so much for your comment. I am defiantly planning to add more strength to the chassis as I know these tend to not be so stiff. Need to research how to do this first. Suspension and engine, brakes etc will have a little upgrade but nothing crazy. Also need to look into shock options. Ill look into the Thomas design, thanks for the tip. And for the nuts and bolts, I have no idea 😂🤣 Thanks Jamie
Why wreck the front springs ? Just jack up under the hub and compress the spring, then remove the wishbone bushes, release the jack and it comes apart…
Hello there. The suspension is to be upgraded and these springs were old and tired. Your method works when the car is complete but when I was removing these springs there was no weight over the front as the engine, body etc had been removed. Thanks for watching. More to follow. Jamie
Just repaired a MGA chassis rail and was quite a job so thankful the TR6 is better than expected. These old cars always are surprising usually not pleasantly 😂
@@jamiedowson6482 That rear trailing arm mounting location seems to be where the TR6 frame rots first. I wonder if it something to do with dissimilar metals in that location (Al trailing arm). The flat central bracing plate (nicknamed T-Shirt, because of its shape) can also be a problem. I had 2 TR6's in the day and they were beautiful cars to drive. It looks like you have the Type A overdrive unit on your car - nice.
Slippery slopes for a strong couple of blokes💪👌 Curious to see the final result:)
Haha Its good training for use lifting these rusty relics. Stayed tuned and follow the progress. Jamie
oh yeah...ive just done a full restore of floors and sills plus all suspension replaced and upgraded...easy enough but a lot of time needed to complete...its a labour of love to say the least. keep going and you will get there....your body looks pretty good with little rust.
That's awesome. Yes it's surprising how many components even a simple car is made up of. We're hoping to get some more progress on the car soon. Just ordering parts etc right now and the list keeps growing. Good luck with the rest of your project and keep going.
Take a look at the reinforcing plates for the rear differential mounting areas as they had a tendency to crack with flexing. It's an easy fix when the chassis is bare.
Thanks for this. I’ll definitely check it out. The frame now it’s blasted will make it easier to detect any cracks etc. Jamie
Hey Jamie - great project and I appreciate your expertise. Having done this exact same process on my 73 TR6 (which was equally rusted out) I enjoy watching you get in to the TR6. One note: I am not sure what medium you are using for "blasting" but I sent mine to a commercial sand blaster and, regrettably, the boot and bonnet panels came back with severe warping. In retrospect I should have ordered dry ice or other medium that might reduce the heat/pressure of sand blasting but I just wasn't educated. After 3 years my TR6 is a gem - fully restored and running good. Best of luck with yours and I will be watching!
Unfortunate blasting can be a little harsh on these old cars and can lead to warping. Have you checked one of my other videos on the Chevrolet Nova that I am also working on. That had some warpage, check it out. They also used different grades for different parts of the car. Water blasting is amazing but was double the price. Jamie
Good to see the bones of a TR6. I didn't know they had a chassis. Same set up as a Spitfire. Herald. Heavy car . Not a lot you can do to liten it. I had a 2500pi estate car. That engine could make that big loaded car move. You moving along good. Good luck. You got to find a flying jacket. Get the roof down in winter. Extra heaters under the seats. Heated seats. This was what it was built for.(The British Sports Car) Junk that hard top. Find a cloth top. I think Pirelli tyres work good on that car. But may have come with Goodyear from the factory. Softer rubber. I fitted tyres in that generation of car. Good luck.
Its amazing every time I take a car apart how many components they consist of. Its great with these that you can remove the body from the chassis.
Heated seats would be a super addition I think so good tip. Then there is not excuse for roof down winter cruising.
Haven't looked into tyre choice yet. I do like the look of the sprint classics though and have then on my Beetles.
Thanks for watching and hope you continue to do so. Jamie
@@jamiedowson6482 yep back in the day. Pereli P6 was the ultimate tyre. Not cheap. But think they had Good year Eagle GTs..they was not a low profile tyre. I always liked the chunky tyre. Michelin ( can't remember what name) was a high miler tyre and hard rubber. Not good on these cars..you need traction.. maybe some ToYo. But mainly track tyre in the day. Good luck..
@@jamiedowson6482 ok so I had a read up. It's been 37 years since I fitted tyres. Lol. They left the factory with michelin XAS..but the owners didn't like them. Rubber to hard..they liked the Pereli P6 which is the Cinturo. Or some people went for the Goodyear HR Or even VR . None of these tyres were cheap in the day..but the Michelin was taken off the first week. Some would give me the tyres. I could sell off. Make some tea pot money. Lol. Hope that helps..
Hahahha great story! I bet the MIchelins would be very expensive today! @@DenisEdwards-ls2de
@@jamiedowson6482 maybe not to expensive. There is fifty times more competition than those days. If it was me I go for the Pereli P6. Maybe a better Pereli now. But it was developed as a racing tyre in those days. Or maybe ToYo . We had those on our racing MGBGTV8. Maybe they got a road legal one today. Good luck Guys.
Hi Jamie I like your Project , A friend of mine had a similar project a TR6 1972 a real bucket of rust but he stayed with it until the bitter end , I think it took him the most of twelve years to complete , but its areal Gem of a car now he spent a long time sourcing little bits and pieces for it , every thing possible from stem to stern , Had the engine block line bared for the camshaft so that he could have the Cam run on white metal bearings etc No stone unturned , so I hope you will the satisfaction of enjoying this Gem when its complete , at the moment I'm in the process of restoring a 1954 DKW Sonderklasse just started I have a lot of Parts sourced for the project , so I assume you are like me its great to have a challenge to be able to bring these Historic Cars back to original condition as good as the Manufacturer , Keep up the good work
These were defiantly know for their rust issues for sure like many cars of this era. Really nice that your friend had such a long term project and building a car for yourself can be like therapy.
Your project sounds really cool I like the old DKW brand but have never owned or worked on any. Good luck with the build. Jamie
Great vid. Really envy your workshop facilities. Mines being worked on, on the drive for the last few years. Great content and good editing skills. May I suggest you watch Rusty Beauties, Ellin Yakov. He is a master at all things Triumph. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for your kind comment and glad you enjoy the videos.
That's great to hear that you have a ongoing project also. Cant wait to get back on this TR6 and make more progress. I'll check out the channels you mentioned. Thanks for the tip. Jamie
Good video.Thanks. I will follow with interest. It looks like the front of the chassis has been strengthened by using the plates .. it might be worth adding more strength
, especially if you are putting more power out by upgrading the engine. An LSD may also be sensible? The rear shock mod is ok but an up-rated damper can work well too. If you are going stainless be aware that not all manifolds are the same.. some are much better than others. Iirc the Gareth Thomas design is about as good as it gets.. but others may disagree..lol
One question.. how the heck do you remember where all the nuts and bolts go back into place😂
Thanks so much for your comment. I am defiantly planning to add more strength to the chassis as I know these tend to not be so stiff. Need to research how to do this first. Suspension and engine, brakes etc will have a little upgrade but nothing crazy. Also need to look into shock options. Ill look into the Thomas design, thanks for the tip. And for the nuts and bolts, I have no idea 😂🤣 Thanks Jamie
Greeeeeeeat stuff👍👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Yeeeeeeeeeees 💪💪💪💪👌 Thanks for watching. Jamie
Why wreck the front springs ? Just jack up under the hub and compress the spring, then remove the wishbone bushes, release the jack and it comes apart…
Hello there. The suspension is to be upgraded and these springs were old and tired. Your method works when the car is complete but when I was removing these springs there was no weight over the front as the engine, body etc had been removed. Thanks for watching. More to follow. Jamie
Fair enough... you just presented it as a bit of an "approved method" !@@jamiedowson6482
I think you are very lucky and you won't have to do this - TR6 - Rotten Frame Repair - part1 - Trailing Arm Support
Just repaired a MGA chassis rail and was quite a job so thankful the TR6 is better than expected. These old cars always are surprising usually not pleasantly 😂
@@jamiedowson6482 That rear trailing arm mounting location seems to be where the TR6 frame rots first. I wonder if it something to do with dissimilar metals in that location (Al trailing arm). The flat central bracing plate (nicknamed T-Shirt, because of its shape) can also be a problem.
I had 2 TR6's in the day and they were beautiful cars to drive. It looks like you have the Type A overdrive unit on your car - nice.