Insurance Survey And Custom Report: geni.us/bI8z0 Smart Electrical Box (Internal Screws): geni.us/ddcJ4nz WAGO 221 Kit (4 Types of Lever Nuts): geni.us/wKcBNC New Klein Tools 16-in-1 Screwdriver: geni.us/9j1bFVa My Favorite Non-Contact Voltage Tester: geni.us/EIcTOsV My Favorite Outlet Tester (With Voltage Display): geni.us/rS4mlwJ Klein Tools Self-Adjusting Wire Strippers: geni.us/LICises Knipex Hybrid Wire Strippers: geni.us/uVWn Leviton Edge Outlets: geni.us/Nrt7j6 Electrical Tools Used In The Video: geni.us/Pf2A DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Dang, I cannot express how grateful I am for this video. Not only do you produce some amazing content, that is clear, concise, and too the point, but you cover all of those little things people could run into. As someone who only dabbles in this kind of home improvement, your channel is a godsend. Thank you!
I did not read comments, but I am sure someone somewhere will argue about the backstabbing... don't! Scott is absolutely right here. I am not an electrician, but I was actually taught this by an electrical contractor... and I literally had the backstabbing in my house almost cause a fire. The lights in that room were flickering and we thought it was a faulty LED bulb (because others in that pack acted similarly)... I am grateful I happened to catch my daughter using the receptacle and light flicker... the wall of this receptacle was very hot to the touch... and I could hear once I got close, the sound of arcing/popping when wiggling the plug. Don't mess with it. Use the screw terminals. Please.
@@BlugubriousMusic backstabbing offers almost no contact area. You have a tangent point of a radius and a flat blade. It's all about surface contact area. I don't like wagos for the same reason. You have a pinch vee area blade that contacts at two tangent points and partially digs in. The contact area of even two wires intertwined with two linear tangents contacting surfaces spiraling across the total length of stripped wires far exceeds wagos blade peircings when pre twisted and capped properly. Not including the nut contact on the outer tangent points.
Hey Scott Having experienced what a pain it is working with the screw type outlets, I was very interested in the new Leviton flip locks. A couple years ago I replaced all of the wall switches in our house. That was a major task with over 30 switches of various types. I replaced the construction grade junk with the Leviton decora. That all came out very well. At that time I did not do the outlets figuring I would at some point later. After viewing this video and learning of the flip locks I decided to move ahead. When you introduced the Wago connectors I picked those up right away and have used them for various projects. So having outlets with that style of connector seemed great. To start with I just ordered a box of 10 and have installed those in the kitchen, our island, and dining room. They are a breeze to work with. On the first one it was a challenge getting the J hooks off of the screws. I then thought to just remove the screw complete and not bother with the J hook. After they were all lose I just cut the J hook off, did a little straightening, and installed the new flip lock Leviton. Probably saved 10 to 15 mins per outlet. I will gradually get more and go room by room! So thank you for introducing those outlets. They are great!
I got a circuit finder from Klein Tools. It has the outlet tester you leave in the outlet and has a receiver tool you run over your breakers at the box and beeps with red light when you're over the breaker.
@@adultacount That's commonly required for receptacles located on the wall behind kitchen counters. It's code here in Ontario, Canada. It's because many of the portable appliances people use there are high current users ( tea kettles, toasters, etc ).
Regarding number five.....2 wire with no ground. I went with installing the GFI breaker at the panel as the entire circuit is then covered. Most of the outlet boxes I have are all small, and putting in a GFI outlet is very tight. Also a big thumbs up on the Southwest boxes.....have installed many and they are great. (also used your idea and replaced the screws with torx heads). Good video.
Using a soft piece of flat wood, such as a piece of yardstick or paint stick, is helpful when folding & pushing the wires to the rear of the box. Good job on the video.
Another great video Scott. For #5 -- replacing a 2-prong outlet with a GFCI -- there might be a lot of people in the same situation as me. My house was built in 1963. The original wiring was all metal boxes with flexible metal conduit and no ground wire. The metal conduit acts as the ground. The outlets in the living room and bedrooms were all 2-prong. I replaced them with 3-prong by attaching a ground wire to the metal box. The only tricky part for me was that the boxes did not have a hole for a ground screw like newer boxes have. Code does not allow for self-tapping screws, so I had to drill the holes (with the correct size drill bit) and use a tool to create the threads. That really wasn't too difficult, and the bit and tool weren't a lot of money. If anyone does this in their home, be sure to test with an outlet tester (like the one Scott links to) to be sure you do not have an open ground.
I always wrap the terminals in electrical tape before I stuff everything back in the box. This gives me a little piece of Mind in the future in case somebody is digging around in the box with the faceplate off
Good informative video. It's always good practice to consolidate your conductors when multiple wires are in your outlet box. Instead of having your Line and your Load wires going to the terminals on your device, using all four screws for four wires, make a pigtail by taking the two neutrals and adding a third short cut of wire and make a splice by wago or wirenut connecting them together with just the one tail wire about 8 or 10 inches long to connect to your device. The same way the video showed how to extend a short conductor in a box. This way you tuck the splice back into the box neatly and you don't have that extra resistance of multiple wires connected to the device making it difficult and potentially dangerous when pushing the device back into the box. Also, if you find you don't have drywall for the ears to push against when installing the device you can bend the ears of the bracket backwards without breaking them off and they will sometimes provide enough spacer support against the box edge to keep your device flush with the drywall face without having to install spacers on the mounting screws. Just a couple of tips from an old wireman
extremely informative video! i've replaced quite a few of our outlets already...but i always learn something new from these videos. saved straight to my DIY Home playlist!
As someone else mentioned: The lever terminal outlets are bulkier so may be harder to fit in cramped boxes. Also, I didn't see options on them for jumpering to other outlets. The nice thing about a good quality outlet with back inserting terminals is you can connect 4 wires to each pole. Example: Romex in, 2 Romex cables out, plus a connection to a 2nd outlet in the same box.
God DIY Video. When I had to work alone I always just plugged a radio into the outlet and then turned off breakers until the radio went off. I would always cut it on and off a couple of times to make sure it was for sure off.
Thanks for the feedback! Aluminum wasn't too common in the few different areas I have lived over the years but good to get the feedback to make sure we are helping the most people.
Yes. My son ran into this in his condo. The microwave outlet was turning black so he unplugged it. Turns out, 15 amp circuit with aluminum wiring connected to copper extensions. A bit of a heat issue. And then there was the mold...
Very informative video. The lever-connect feature of the new Leviton outlets looks to be very functional. However, they appear to be bulkier in the body than the regular screw type outlet.
they're bulkier, and the drywall ears are bigger. its made for an oversized cover plate. you can trim off a breakaway part of the ears, but really, they're made for fast and sloppy.
Not just for short wires - I recommend always stocking some Wago or Ideal push connect, and a few feet of 12ga wire. This will allow creating pigtails instead of using the outlet to connect multiple wires to feed downstream in parallel. (Just did this while replacing the outlet at the end of the island in mother-in-law's kitchen.)
great tips! Wire extension approach looks great. I've never heard of lever nuts, never knew about the wire strip gage on the back of outlets. Glad I watched this!
A tear-down of the Leviton Edge line would be welcome. I do like that someone thought ahead and made the levers snap closed towards the front--keeps the levers from accidentally getting loosened/flipped when you jam them back into the box, especially since these outlets are bulkier than normal ones.
Can you do a video on adding GFCI outlets to a house with no ground ie fo all outlets have to be gfci or just the first one in series and how do you locate which outlet is the first in s series on thst breaker? You videos have helped me a lot and watch all of them as I subscribe to your channel thanks
If the outlets are wired in series and the downstream outlets only get their power from the wiring that goes through the first receptacle, then only the first one needs to be a GFCI. Also if you have metal boxes and there are no ground wires connecting the receptacles to the boxes (you might have these even without ground wires going back to the breaker) then be sure to use self grounding receptacles including the GFCI. Here is a video to watch about finding the first receptacle: ruclips.net/video/22fuHMwiYgE/видео.htmlsi=L6tDn1yiIePzysH6
Having been using Decora edge outlets and switches ever since you recommended them on your first video on them a few years ago. No issues so far. Would love to see a tear down on the new ones
Decora Edge is what got me to replace all my outlets in my house built in 92. Quick and easy for someone who knew nothing beforehand. A tad on the expensive side but I bought in bulk helping with the price
Love to see a tear down of the new Leviton lever connections. Honestly, nothing I see there makes me think it's in any way better than backstabbing. Cracking them open would tell the story.
The design is substantially different and I like the retention design a lot more than what is on a standard cheap outlet with backstabbing. I will get the Dremel ready and cut a few open 👍
You can install a regular three prong outlet downstream of a GFCI outlet or if you have a GFCI breaker. In that case you would need a "GFCI protected" sticker and a "No equipment ground" sticker on the outlet.
I was really interested in the Leviton edge but i was bummed that it didn’t have the robust blades like commercial outlets do. I hope that they improved that. Looking forward to the teardowns
Back in the day, I'd plug an extension cord into the receptacle I'm trying to shut off, plug my outlet tester into the cord and drag it to the panel with me. That way I know when I turned off the correct breaker. Now I use the Klein ET310.
Good pointers. I always use a torque screwdriver/small wrench when tightening the terminal screws. All manufacturers have a recommended torque specification for their receptacles. I find Eaton TR receptacles are more adult friendly than the Leviton. Whenever I try to plug something into a Leviton TR receptacle, I feel like I am breaking the TR tabs. Not so with Eaton. I don’t know if you have created a video regarding permitting, but that is something DIY’ers can get wrong. Some think they do not need a permit because they are the homeowner, which in my state is not correct for a lot of the work you show. Some think since they own the rental home, they can do the work as long as they have a permit, which in my state is never correct.
@@Lysander_Spooner Personally, I would not advise people to break the law. Even after you sell the property, you are responsible for the work you did on it. If somebody gets hurt from your work and they can prove you never got it permitted/inspected, their legal position against you is much stronger.
LabCat Academy teaches our students to test outlets and they are forever breaking them by jamming multimeter probes into them. Those new Leviton outlets seem like a dream! 😻
I replaced all the outlets in a house that had 12 gauge wire throughout. Folding that wire into old-style 50's boxes was a pain. Eventually started to use one of those plastic pry bars for auto panel removal to push and help fold the wires. Huge improvement though 12 gauge is still a PITA.
Great info. The right driver is always what kills me since i never spend the time to find the right one so the Klein multitools is likely in my future. Have you looked into air sealing electric boxes? Between caulking and using wall plate gaskets I am planning on doing that to my house to hopefully improve my house leaking air
in an old house, the wallplate gaskets can reduce cold air leaks. in a newer house, the wall shouldn't be leaky enough to make a difference. if you can't feel a draft from your devices even on a cold windy day, it's probably not worth the bother.
1) Somebody inside the building may turn breaker on and return electricity to circuit where you are working. 2) You should use dielectric tools if the wires are connected to panel. Sometimes contacts are moving if circuit breaker is malfunctioned or utility transformer insulation may have cracks. Always work like circuit is still energised. And always use golden rule: disconnect ➡️ check ➡️ short hot wires to ground busbar. If someone turns circuit breaker on, result will be short circuit instead of electrocution.
Would you provide a description, or link, for the screws you like to use with this Smart Electrical Box (Internal Screws). I saw this in another one of your videos and I think you called them general construction screwes. Very helpful video. Thanks.
Little pricey but I go with the GRK #8 at a 1 1/2" length www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-1-1-2-in-R4-Multi-Purpose-Star-Drive-Flat-Head-Screw-110-per-Pack-96085/204837666
I use Wagos exclusively. I’ve looked for lever lock receptacles at my local ACE Hardware and they don’t carry them. I’m not sure Lowe’s or Home Depot carry them. I have to order them. I used the Leviton edge series in 2 bathroom remodels. I love them, with the “screwless” plates.
Lowes has Ideal lever connectors (same concept, but it looks a little different). Home Depot sells both, though their website says only the Wagos are actually in-store where I live.
12:06 You might mention the torque values for the outlets that's printed on the back (New UL requirement). Generally 14-18 in-lbs, which is a lot tighter than most people think. I suspect if you used a torque screwdriver, you'd find that the outlet you used in the example, is way under that torque value. It seems like the instructions that comes with the outlet tells you to visit the website for the proper values. Not tightening the screws enough, seems to be one of the biggest issues with DIY outlets. Especially if they have something like a space heater plugged in.
I used to live in an apartment that was attached to a seasonal business. Had a bedroom outlet burn one day. "No big deal", I thought. Went to the store and grabbed a new one. When I get back, I discover that none of the breakers actually control the bedroom. Tried every single one, plus the main. The bedroom remained powered. So at this point, I figured the bedroom must have been wired into a breaker inside the business (before you comment, the place was an absolute mess in the way it was wired; no idea how the guy got away with it). As previously stated, this was a seasonal business. It was already closed for winter, and the owner was in Florida. Slightly exciting swapping an outlet on live wires (keep one hand in your pocket! Lol), but got it done without incident. Not recommending it of course, just sharing a story.
Do you ever place electrical tape over the wiring screws. This allows you to remove the device (switch or receptical) with out grounding to the box (where conduit is required by codes)
The slim GFCI are great for older homes with smaller receptacles. My 1948 house has metal receptacles that are grounded to the house plumbing. That was the old way to ground. All receptacles grounded to the house - including the AM antenna in the attic. 😮
I don't know if you have covered switched outlets. I have a switched outlet I'd like to make constant hot, how would I go about doing that? Any help would be appreciated. By the way you have a great and informative channel thanks again for the help.
Great summary. Just changed a receptacle this morning in an old house. The ground was screwed to the back of the metal box. Is that enough? Even if the box is surrounded by wood? Perhaps should change to GFCI. Thx
The theory was, if the box was grounded, the receptacle was grounded as well, through the screws. What you could do: Screw a grounding pigtail into the box, then do a pigtail with the existing ground and terminate it on the receptacle.
(I'm not an electrician, but I have read up on this.) Since you are in an older house, you may have metal conduit from the panel to the box. The metal conduit acts as the ground. With the outlet pulled out of the box, you should be able to see if it is fed with metal conduit, but to be sure it connects to the panel, get an outlet tester (Scott includes a link to one). If that wire is not really grounded, the tester should show you have an open ground.
It's how I judge people. If they didn't do what I can see correctly, what did they do incorrectly in the wall. 😂 It's not just a good idea. It's the law.
My dad always had me put the black wire on the brass screw and the white on the silver but on the screw that is not parallel the black wire screw. He said this will let you know if the receptacle is broke because neither of the sockets work. What is your opinion?
I tried the edge series, and went back. funny how you don't like standard grade devices, but Edge is more of a mobile home grade. personally, edge is perfectly adequate for residential devices - but the time savings of the wago type terminals gets burned because they are made to be paired with oversized plates, and you have to cut away part of the drywall ears to fit a standard plate.
issue i am seeing is there is not enough room in the outlet boxes and most have several wires in them and the new better outlets are larger and thicker where room is very much needed - bummer have to go with cheaper outlets due to size restrictions - dan
Great demo, what is that gray box called that screws to the stud? I recently purchased the skill cordless swivel head screwdrive($19) that’s worth every penny I’ve used similar ones 4X the price and I prefer the Skill. Always a learning lesson, thx for sharing 👍
They are the Southwire SmartBox. The screws that come with them are #6, 1 5/8”, fine thread, sharp point drywall screws. Fine thread drywall screws like to be driven perpendicular to the surface of the wood. Not at an angle. Therefore, like Scott, I remove the screws that come with it and use either Torx screws or #6, 1 5/8”, coarse thread, sharp point drywall screws
the biggest pointer is, if the flex is damaged or broken, you've lost your ground connection. if a DIYer has replaced it with nonmetallic cable, then the ground wire has to be bonded to the boxes to maintain the integrity of the grounding system. as for replacing devices, with an effective ground path - commercial grade devices usually have a clip on one of the mounting screws that allows the device to be grounded through the screws, so you don't HAVE to retrofit ground pigtails, but ground pigtails are more sure to make good contact.
I would say you also need to make sure you are using the proper receptacle for your circuit. Installing a 20A receptacle where you should be using a 15A and then using 20A devices would be a fire hazard.
The reason you don't like back stabbing is the same reason I don't really like Wago lever nuts. Just a piece of small metal holding the wire. The wire tends to turn easily in the lever nuts making me second guess the connection
12:38 wouldn't you also recommend putting it on the other side of the screw so that as you tighten the screw it pulls the wire in (that's the way I was taught)
You mentioned links in description but they aren't there. Particularly interested in the non decora edge outlet - I couldn't find it on Amazon. Thanks.
Thanks for the reminder and I think Home Depot has them exclusively for the first 3-6 month and then the new models seem to roll out to more stores. www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Lever-Edge-15-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-Outlet-Receptacle-NEMA-5-15R-Commercial-Grade-White-10-Pack-M02-ECBR1-WMP/331467943
you can find commercial grade tamper resistant, but yes, receptacles in residential installations are required to be tamper resistant. - tamper resistant commercial grade are available, because they are required in child care facilities.
What if you have cloth insulated wire with no ground but it’s encased in metal loom and your boxes are metal? I was told that conducts as a ground. Is that true?
How about installing an receptacle in an old work box? Many people don't realize you're supposed to break the ears off the yoke so that the receptacle sits correctly in the box, and the face plate isn't floating out from the wall by a 1/16" to an 1/8" of inch.
Nope, it is a bit confusing but you can have a 15-Amp duplex outlet on 12-gauge wire and a 20 Amp breaker. Just can have a single 15-Amp outlet on a 20 Amp breaker.
You can press in a small slotted screwdriver into the slot below the wire to release or if that doesn's work you can twist back and forth and pull them out.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs other way around - twist and pull will usually get them out, and if that fails, use the tab. or channies. if you're chaning out a lot, just crush the outlet with channies.
😮But, legacy 2-prong outlets can still be purchased, and outlets are still manufactured with back-stab connections and 14-AWG solid wire is allowed on 15-amp branch circuits...
the outlet closest to the panel is usually the first in line. once you've determined what outlets are on the circuit, you can separate the wires on the closest outlet, and see if that kills power to all of them. then you can find out which cable is the host side, and install 1 GFCI to protect the entire circuit - or, if the panel has been upgraded, you can install a GFCI breaker (I recommend a dual fault GFCI/AFCI breaker if they cost the same) also - the common term for that is daisy chain, rather than series - since series has a specific meaning in electrical work.
I was, until I switched over the the Klein Multi bits. I like the 16-in-1 but the 15-in-1 Klein comes with a combo bit as 1 of the 15 just like the ECX. I just like having to only carry 1 screwdriver for 99% of my DIY jobs.
be aware that code does permit a screw to be driven through the side of a standard nail on box, as long as it doesn't leave sharp edges inside the box, and the screw head is far enough back to not accidentally contact the device. the boxes with the built in screw ports are, to me, worse than the alternative.
Nicks on the wire when stripping will break the wire with a few back and forths. There should be no nicks. It is amazing how easy the wire will break, do an experiment.
So ground up or ground down? And if you put ground up, do you still wire hot to gold and neutral to silver? Sorry if that’s dumb, but I’m having a hard time visualizing this.
Code doesn’t say anything about ground up or down, although you will find people claiming one way or the other is the only right way to do it. Some claim it’s safer up because a falling metal object wedged in between it and the wall will hit the ground first, not the hot prong. On the other hand , ground down will ensure outlets stay in place more reliably because the ground receptacle doesn’t wear out . Personally I prefer ground down. Hot still goes to the gold and silver to neutral regardless of how you orient the outlet in the box
Hot (black) goes to the gold screw terminal. Neutral (white) goes to the silver. Ground goes to the green. As a DIYer, I install receptacles one of two directions, 1)receptacle vertical with ground down, 2) receptacle horizontal with ground either on left or right, depending on the space.
I presume those lever receptacles are much more costly than the regular, commercial grade. Not at all worth it for me just to save a couple turns of a screwdriver.
I think they are between the price of spec grade and residential grade - they're made for manufactured/tract home use, so they're priced accordingly. (to be clear, the price difference is calculated to make them cheaper in the long run than the combination of turning the screwdriver and having bad connections come up while the home is still under warranty) - also, the leviton edge are not commercial grade.
Here's a thought...... How many older houses in the us have 3 prong outlets with no ground, device protection............running Samsung's and microwaves n game caves with ps6s n xboxes n high end pc setups? I'm guessing the number is really really high.......
Insurance Survey And Custom Report: geni.us/bI8z0
Smart Electrical Box (Internal Screws): geni.us/ddcJ4nz
WAGO 221 Kit (4 Types of Lever Nuts): geni.us/wKcBNC
New Klein Tools 16-in-1 Screwdriver: geni.us/9j1bFVa
My Favorite Non-Contact Voltage Tester: geni.us/EIcTOsV
My Favorite Outlet Tester (With Voltage Display): geni.us/rS4mlwJ
Klein Tools Self-Adjusting Wire Strippers: geni.us/LICises
Knipex Hybrid Wire Strippers: geni.us/uVWn
Leviton Edge Outlets: geni.us/Nrt7j6
Electrical Tools Used In The Video: geni.us/Pf2A
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
The survey doesn’t work when I’m trying to choose Other
@@erezamit7289 Thanks for the feedback. I will take a look.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Learned the thing about the GFCI not requiring a ground. Very good to consider when replacing outlets in older buildings.
Also, those tabs on the corners are removeable so they can also be used as spacers.
Dang, I cannot express how grateful I am for this video. Not only do you produce some amazing content, that is clear, concise, and too the point, but you cover all of those little things people could run into. As someone who only dabbles in this kind of home improvement, your channel is a godsend. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the support 👍
I did not read comments, but I am sure someone somewhere will argue about the backstabbing... don't! Scott is absolutely right here. I am not an electrician, but I was actually taught this by an electrical contractor... and I literally had the backstabbing in my house almost cause a fire. The lights in that room were flickering and we thought it was a faulty LED bulb (because others in that pack acted similarly)... I am grateful I happened to catch my daughter using the receptacle and light flicker... the wall of this receptacle was very hot to the touch... and I could hear once I got close, the sound of arcing/popping when wiggling the plug. Don't mess with it. Use the screw terminals. Please.
@@BlugubriousMusic backstabbing offers almost no contact area. You have a tangent point of a radius and a flat blade. It's all about surface contact area. I don't like wagos for the same reason. You have a pinch vee area blade that contacts at two tangent points and partially digs in. The contact area of even two wires intertwined with two linear tangents contacting surfaces spiraling across the total length of stripped wires far exceeds wagos blade peircings when pre twisted and capped properly. Not including the nut contact on the outer tangent points.
Hey Scott
Having experienced what a pain it is working with the screw type outlets, I was very interested in the new Leviton flip locks. A couple years ago I replaced all of the wall switches in our house. That was a major task with over 30 switches of various types. I replaced the construction grade junk with the Leviton decora. That all came out very well.
At that time I did not do the outlets figuring I would at some point later. After viewing this video and learning of the flip locks I decided to move ahead.
When you introduced the Wago connectors I picked those up right away and have used them for various projects. So having outlets with that style of connector seemed great.
To start with I just ordered a box of 10 and have installed those in the kitchen, our island, and dining room. They are a breeze to work with. On the first one it was a challenge getting the J hooks off of the screws. I then thought to just remove the screw complete and not bother with the J hook. After they were all lose I just cut the J hook off, did a little straightening, and installed the new flip lock Leviton. Probably saved 10 to 15 mins per outlet.
I will gradually get more and go room by room! So thank you for introducing those outlets. They are great!
Thanks for all the great feedback and best of luck finishing off your electrical upgrades.
Good solo technique for checking breakers is plugging in a vacuum and letting it run while you flip breakers
I got a circuit finder from Klein Tools. It has the outlet tester you leave in the outlet and has a receiver tool you run over your breakers at the box and beeps with red light when you're over the breaker.
@@johnhwang339 me too, brother. How do you like yours? I’m about to fire mine up for the first time over the weekend.
Great Idea! Thanks for sharing. I know some use a radio for a similar reason.
Ive seen some outlets mainly in shop/garage setting where each receptacle was connected to a seperate breaker, make sure you test both
@@adultacount That's commonly required for receptacles located on the wall behind kitchen counters. It's code here in Ontario, Canada. It's because many of the portable appliances people use there are high current users ( tea kettles, toasters, etc ).
I would love to see a video on opening the new Leviton receptacle
Regarding number five.....2 wire with no ground. I went with installing the GFI breaker at the panel as the entire circuit is then covered. Most of the outlet boxes I have are all small, and putting in a GFI outlet is very tight. Also a big thumbs up on the Southwest boxes.....have installed many and they are great. (also used your idea and replaced the screws with torx heads). Good video.
Thanks for the feedback and the GFCI breaker as opposed to the GFCI outlet is a great option.
Using a soft piece of flat wood, such as a piece of yardstick or paint stick, is helpful when folding & pushing the wires to the rear of the box. Good job on the video.
Another great video Scott.
For #5 -- replacing a 2-prong outlet with a GFCI -- there might be a lot of people in the same situation as me. My house was built in 1963. The original wiring was all metal boxes with flexible metal conduit and no ground wire. The metal conduit acts as the ground.
The outlets in the living room and bedrooms were all 2-prong. I replaced them with 3-prong by attaching a ground wire to the metal box. The only tricky part for me was that the boxes did not have a hole for a ground screw like newer boxes have. Code does not allow for self-tapping screws, so I had to drill the holes (with the correct size drill bit) and use a tool to create the threads. That really wasn't too difficult, and the bit and tool weren't a lot of money.
If anyone does this in their home, be sure to test with an outlet tester (like the one Scott links to) to be sure you do not have an open ground.
I always wrap the terminals in electrical tape before I stuff everything back in the box. This gives me a little piece of Mind in the future in case somebody is digging around in the box with the faceplate off
Good informative video.
It's always good practice to consolidate your conductors when multiple wires are in your outlet box. Instead of having your Line and your Load wires going to the terminals on your device, using all four screws for four wires, make a pigtail by taking the two neutrals and adding a third short cut of wire and make a splice by wago or wirenut connecting them together with just the one tail wire about 8 or 10 inches long to connect to your device. The same way the video showed how to extend a short conductor in a box. This way you tuck the splice back into the box neatly and you don't have that extra resistance of multiple wires connected to the device making it difficult and potentially dangerous when pushing the device back into the box.
Also, if you find you don't have drywall for the ears to push against when installing the device you can bend the ears of the bracket backwards without breaking them off and they will sometimes provide enough spacer support against the box edge to keep your device flush with the drywall face without having to install spacers on the mounting screws.
Just a couple of tips from an old wireman
extremely informative video! i've replaced quite a few of our outlets already...but i always learn something new from these videos. saved straight to my DIY Home playlist!
Nice 🙌. Thanks for the feedback and support.
As someone else mentioned: The lever terminal outlets are bulkier so may be harder to fit in cramped boxes. Also, I didn't see options on them for jumpering to other outlets. The nice thing about a good quality outlet with back inserting terminals is you can connect 4 wires to each pole. Example: Romex in, 2 Romex cables out, plus a connection to a 2nd outlet in the same box.
Something that has always stuck with me from my apprentice days was just remembering the saying, “Gold is HOT, Silver is NOT”.
Black gold, Texas tea
God DIY Video. When I had to work alone I always just plugged a radio into the outlet and then turned off breakers until the radio went off. I would always cut it on and off a couple of times to make sure it was for sure off.
You really should talk about aluminum wire in some of these common repair videos - many houses in my area built in 60s used this.
I always hated dealing with aluminum wiring.😂
Thanks for the feedback! Aluminum wasn't too common in the few different areas I have lived over the years but good to get the feedback to make sure we are helping the most people.
@@Lysander_Spooner yeah, it sucks for a lot of different reasons.
Yes. My son ran into this in his condo. The microwave outlet was turning black so he unplugged it. Turns out, 15 amp circuit with aluminum wiring connected to copper extensions. A bit of a heat issue. And then there was the mold...
@ Sounds fun 😕
Very informative video. The lever-connect feature of the new Leviton outlets looks to be very functional. However, they appear to be bulkier in the body than the regular screw type outlet.
they're bulkier, and the drywall ears are bigger. its made for an oversized cover plate. you can trim off a breakaway part of the ears, but really, they're made for fast and sloppy.
Not just for short wires - I recommend always stocking some Wago or Ideal push connect, and a few feet of 12ga wire. This will allow creating pigtails instead of using the outlet to connect multiple wires to feed downstream in parallel. (Just did this while replacing the outlet at the end of the island in mother-in-law's kitchen.)
Would love to see the Leviton teardown, I'm really curious as to how those work. Thanks for the great content.
Lever-connected receptacle/outlet looks really good! Great episode! Well done!
I never realized that you can use a square bit to remove the outlet fasteners. Thanks for the tip
Those new leviton lever terminals are slick
great tips! Wire extension approach looks great. I've never heard of lever nuts, never knew about the wire strip gage on the back of outlets. Glad I watched this!
A tear-down of the Leviton Edge line would be welcome. I do like that someone thought ahead and made the levers snap closed towards the front--keeps the levers from accidentally getting loosened/flipped when you jam them back into the box, especially since these outlets are bulkier than normal ones.
this is why if I replace a 2 prong to a 3 prong I use a GFCI and mark he outlet no equipment ground, if its on a generator you might need to bond it
Can you do a video on adding GFCI outlets to a house with no ground ie fo all outlets have to be gfci or just the first one in series and how do you locate which outlet is the first in s series on thst breaker? You videos have helped me a lot and watch all of them as I subscribe to your channel thanks
If the outlets are wired in series and the downstream outlets only get their power from the wiring that goes through the first receptacle, then only the first one needs to be a GFCI. Also if you have metal boxes and there are no ground wires connecting the receptacles to the boxes (you might have these even without ground wires going back to the breaker) then be sure to use self grounding receptacles including the GFCI.
Here is a video to watch about finding the first receptacle: ruclips.net/video/22fuHMwiYgE/видео.htmlsi=L6tDn1yiIePzysH6
Whatever happened to using an "ecx" bit on the terminal screws? Well done video!
I still use them and LOVE them. It really keeps them from camming out.
I sure appreciate all of your videos. Thank you.
Having been using Decora edge outlets and switches ever since you recommended them on your first video on them a few years ago. No issues so far. Would love to see a tear down on the new ones
I didn't see something that was new to me, but it's probably because I've watched all of your videos. Cheers - good work!
2:54 even better is the Klein Combo bit. it can be found on some of their multi bit screwdrivers.
Yep, it's called the ECX bit. Works good.
Decora Edge is what got me to replace all my outlets in my house built in 92. Quick and easy for someone who knew nothing beforehand. A tad on the expensive side but I bought in bulk helping with the price
Love to see a tear down of the new Leviton lever connections. Honestly, nothing I see there makes me think it's in any way better than backstabbing. Cracking them open would tell the story.
The design is substantially different and I like the retention design a lot more than what is on a standard cheap outlet with backstabbing. I will get the Dremel ready and cut a few open 👍
You can install a regular three prong outlet downstream of a GFCI outlet or if you have a GFCI breaker. In that case you would need a "GFCI protected" sticker and a "No equipment ground" sticker on the outlet.
Hey, use the built-in wire stripper on the outlet bracket to save time!
Actually Eaton removed the feature recently. There is no longer a sharper edge and labeling for the integrated wire strippers.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Oh, wow, I didn't notice, as I haven't purchased any outlets lately. Probably a cost reduction strategy.
Thank you for your content. It's been really helpful to me--I was never taught this stuff and spend way too much money on mistakes.
I really appreciate your help! Grate tips! Love the wGos kit has been a grate game change
I was really interested in the Leviton edge but i was bummed that it didn’t have the robust blades like commercial outlets do. I hope that they improved that. Looking forward to the teardowns
Thanks for the feedback!
Happy New Year Scott.
Happy New Year! Hope you have a great 2025 🚀
Back in the day, I'd plug an extension cord into the receptacle I'm trying to shut off, plug my outlet tester into the cord and drag it to the panel with me. That way I know when I turned off the correct breaker. Now I use the Klein ET310.
Nice, that is actually a good idea
Good pointers. I always use a torque screwdriver/small wrench when tightening the terminal screws. All manufacturers have a recommended torque specification for their receptacles.
I find Eaton TR receptacles are more adult friendly than the Leviton. Whenever I try to plug something into a Leviton TR receptacle, I feel like I am breaking the TR tabs. Not so with Eaton.
I don’t know if you have created a video regarding permitting, but that is something DIY’ers can get wrong. Some think they do not need a permit because they are the homeowner, which in my state is not correct for a lot of the work you show. Some think since they own the rental home, they can do the work as long as they have a permit, which in my state is never correct.
Oof. This may sound bad, but avoid getting permission to do work in your own house. It's your property, not the state's.
@@Lysander_Spooner Personally, I would not advise people to break the law. Even after you sell the property, you are responsible for the work you did on it. If somebody gets hurt from your work and they can prove you never got it permitted/inspected, their legal position against you is much stronger.
@Around_The_Home The "law" is a construct. Usually for three reasons, revenue compliance, and control. A free people don't ask for permission.
@@Lysander_Spooner Does that apply to the NEC also?
@@Around_The_Home I've found the NEC to be fairly practical on most codes. Some are a little ridiculous.
LabCat Academy teaches our students to test outlets and they are forever breaking them by jamming multimeter probes into them. Those new Leviton outlets seem like a dream! 😻
I replaced all the outlets in a house that had 12 gauge wire throughout. Folding that wire into old-style 50's boxes was a pain. Eventually started to use one of those plastic pry bars for auto panel removal to push and help fold the wires. Huge improvement though 12 gauge is still a PITA.
Great info. The right driver is always what kills me since i never spend the time to find the right one so the Klein multitools is likely in my future. Have you looked into air sealing electric boxes? Between caulking and using wall plate gaskets I am planning on doing that to my house to hopefully improve my house leaking air
in an old house, the wallplate gaskets can reduce cold air leaks. in a newer house, the wall shouldn't be leaky enough to make a difference. if you can't feel a draft from your devices even on a cold windy day, it's probably not worth the bother.
1) Somebody inside the building may turn breaker on and return electricity to circuit where you are working.
2) You should use dielectric tools if the wires are connected to panel. Sometimes contacts are moving if circuit breaker is malfunctioned or utility transformer insulation may have cracks. Always work like circuit is still energised.
And always use golden rule: disconnect ➡️ check ➡️ short hot wires to ground busbar. If someone turns circuit breaker on, result will be short circuit instead of electrocution.
@@Dmitrytln Correct, and a meteor may fall from space while you're working, so be sure to build a dome over your house before performing any work.
Congratulations on 1 million subscribers 🎉
Would you provide a description, or link, for the screws you like to use with this Smart Electrical Box (Internal Screws). I saw this in another one of your videos and I think you called them general construction screwes. Very helpful video. Thanks.
Little pricey but I go with the GRK #8 at a 1 1/2" length www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-1-1-2-in-R4-Multi-Purpose-Star-Drive-Flat-Head-Screw-110-per-Pack-96085/204837666
I use Wagos exclusively. I’ve looked for lever lock receptacles at my local ACE Hardware and they don’t carry them. I’m not sure Lowe’s or Home Depot carry them. I have to order them. I used the Leviton edge series in 2 bathroom remodels. I love them, with the “screwless” plates.
Lowes has Ideal lever connectors (same concept, but it looks a little different). Home Depot sells both, though their website says only the Wagos are actually in-store where I live.
@ thanks. I’ll look
Home depot and menards sell the wago connectors also
12:06 You might mention the torque values for the outlets that's printed on the back (New UL requirement). Generally 14-18 in-lbs, which is a lot tighter than most people think. I suspect if you used a torque screwdriver, you'd find that the outlet you used in the example, is way under that torque value. It seems like the instructions that comes with the outlet tells you to visit the website for the proper values. Not tightening the screws enough, seems to be one of the biggest issues with DIY outlets. Especially if they have something like a space heater plugged in.
I used to live in an apartment that was attached to a seasonal business. Had a bedroom outlet burn one day. "No big deal", I thought. Went to the store and grabbed a new one. When I get back, I discover that none of the breakers actually control the bedroom. Tried every single one, plus the main. The bedroom remained powered. So at this point, I figured the bedroom must have been wired into a breaker inside the business (before you comment, the place was an absolute mess in the way it was wired; no idea how the guy got away with it). As previously stated, this was a seasonal business. It was already closed for winter, and the owner was in Florida. Slightly exciting swapping an outlet on live wires (keep one hand in your pocket! Lol), but got it done without incident. Not recommending it of course, just sharing a story.
Do you ever place electrical tape over the wiring screws. This allows you to remove the device (switch or receptical) with out grounding to the box (where conduit is required by codes)
Should check both receptacles for power. Very unlikely the bottom one could be connected to a different circuit.
The slim GFCI are great for older homes with smaller receptacles.
My 1948 house has metal receptacles that are grounded to the house plumbing. That was the old way to ground. All receptacles grounded to the house - including the AM antenna in the attic. 😮
I don't know if you have covered switched outlets. I have a switched outlet I'd like to make constant hot, how would I go about doing that? Any help would be appreciated. By the way you have a great and informative channel thanks again for the help.
Great summary. Just changed a receptacle this morning in an old house. The ground was screwed to the back of the metal box. Is that enough? Even if the box is surrounded by wood?
Perhaps should change to GFCI. Thx
The theory was, if the box was grounded, the receptacle was grounded as well, through the screws. What you could do: Screw a grounding pigtail into the box, then do a pigtail with the existing ground and terminate it on the receptacle.
(I'm not an electrician, but I have read up on this.) Since you are in an older house, you may have metal conduit from the panel to the box. The metal conduit acts as the ground. With the outlet pulled out of the box, you should be able to see if it is fed with metal conduit, but to be sure it connects to the panel, get an outlet tester (Scott includes a link to one). If that wire is not really grounded, the tester should show you have an open ground.
@ you are right! There is a metal conduit and my tester states it is grounded. Thanks.
Please do a teardown on the new products, the internals tell everything about quality or lack of quality.
If you have no ground wire, how do you find the first outlet in the chain to replace it with gfci?
I would love to see a tear down of the Leviton edge outlets.
Leaving the faceplate screw oriented horizontally is a sure sign of psychopathy.
It's how I judge people. If they didn't do what I can see correctly, what did they do incorrectly in the wall. 😂
It's not just a good idea. It's the law.
Great compilation, Scott!
You're the man, bro. Thank you.
You bet! 👊
My dad always had me put the black wire on the brass screw and the white on the silver but on the screw that is not parallel the black wire screw. He said this will let you know if the receptacle is broke because neither of the sockets work. What is your opinion?
The only reason it would stop working is if one of the tabs broke off. I've never seen that happen.
thanks for the informative video. links in description are for canada amazon, are there US equivalents?
Those links should update to where you are located. If you are getting the Canada Amazon I would think you are up in Canada. Is that not the case?
Industrial grade outlets may not meet code in residential homes because of the lack of TR.
There are plenty of industrial/commercial/hospital grade TR outlets on the market.
I tried the edge series, and went back. funny how you don't like standard grade devices, but Edge is more of a mobile home grade. personally, edge is perfectly adequate for residential devices - but the time savings of the wago type terminals gets burned because they are made to be paired with oversized plates, and you have to cut away part of the drywall ears to fit a standard plate.
issue i am seeing is there is not enough room in the outlet boxes and most have several wires in them and the new better outlets are larger and thicker where room is very much needed - bummer have to go with cheaper outlets due to size restrictions - dan
very nice class,thanks you
The black wire hooks up to what screw. And the white wire hooks up to what screw. The same with the ground.
Hot (black) goes to the gold screw terminal. Neutral (white) goes to the silver. Ground goes to the green.
Another excellent video. Thanks
Don’t want to close your hook before tightening ground screw?
Pinching it down a bit isn't a bad idea. I try to make the J-hook so it is open just enough to get around the screw but not open too much.
Great demo, what is that gray box called that screws to the stud? I recently purchased the skill cordless swivel head screwdrive($19) that’s worth every penny I’ve used similar ones 4X the price and I prefer the Skill. Always a learning lesson, thx for sharing 👍
They are the Southwire SmartBox. The screws that come with them are #6, 1 5/8”, fine thread, sharp point drywall screws. Fine thread drywall screws like to be driven perpendicular to the surface of the wood. Not at an angle. Therefore, like Scott, I remove the screws that come with it and use either Torx screws or #6, 1 5/8”, coarse thread, sharp point drywall screws
@ thank you for the great info
Good info & good vid ... Thx
are there any pointers on working with metal boxes? my house uses flex and utilizes the box as a ground.
Is there a ground wire in the flex?
the biggest pointer is, if the flex is damaged or broken, you've lost your ground connection. if a DIYer has replaced it with nonmetallic cable, then the ground wire has to be bonded to the boxes to maintain the integrity of the grounding system. as for replacing devices, with an effective ground path - commercial grade devices usually have a clip on one of the mounting screws that allows the device to be grounded through the screws, so you don't HAVE to retrofit ground pigtails, but ground pigtails are more sure to make good contact.
I would say you also need to make sure you are using the proper receptacle for your circuit. Installing a 20A receptacle where you should be using a 15A and then using 20A devices would be a fire hazard.
💯
The breaker would trip, so no problem.
also a code violation to install a receptacle with a 20 amp face on a 15 amp circuit.
The reason you don't like back stabbing is the same reason I don't really like Wago lever nuts. Just a piece of small metal holding the wire. The wire tends to turn easily in the lever nuts making me second guess the connection
12:38 wouldn't you also recommend putting it on the other side of the screw so that as you tighten the screw it pulls the wire in (that's the way I was taught)
That is a good point and was actually thinking the same as I tightened the screw. Good catch 👍
great video
Thanks!
Yes, tear down of new outlets, please
The Parts and Supplies Used link does Not list all the associated tools, outlets, switches noted in the video.
You mentioned links in description but they aren't there. Particularly interested in the non decora edge outlet - I couldn't find it on Amazon.
Thanks.
Thanks for the reminder and I think Home Depot has them exclusively for the first 3-6 month and then the new models seem to roll out to more stores. www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Lever-Edge-15-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-Outlet-Receptacle-NEMA-5-15R-Commercial-Grade-White-10-Pack-M02-ECBR1-WMP/331467943
I prefer tamper resistant to commercial. Have not seen both but maybe u can find an outlet with both?
you can find commercial grade tamper resistant, but yes, receptacles in residential installations are required to be tamper resistant. - tamper resistant commercial grade are available, because they are required in child care facilities.
What if you have cloth insulated wire with no ground but it’s encased in metal loom and your boxes are metal? I was told that conducts as a ground. Is that true?
Yes
How about installing an receptacle in an old work box? Many people don't realize you're supposed to break the ears off the yoke so that the receptacle sits correctly in the box, and the face plate isn't floating out from the wall by a 1/16" to an 1/8" of inch.
It depends, really.
Tear down leviton would be nice to see what inside
Good info, thanks!
You bet 👍
You have 12/2 wire with a 15 amp plug? Is it a 15A breaker? Could that be bad since the receptical isn't rated to pull 20A if its a 20A circuit?
Nope, it is a bit confusing but you can have a 15-Amp duplex outlet on 12-gauge wire and a 20 Amp breaker. Just can have a single 15-Amp outlet on a 20 Amp breaker.
side wire receptacles are rated for use on a 20 amp circuit, even with a 15 amp face.
Replacing Old outlets can fix a number of issues that you may not even be aware of, so if you can replace them you should.
I had mostly original ones from 1963 - loose connections for the plug. All replaced now! Decora line, last few I used the Edge, very easy.
How to remove wires that were “back stabbed” into an outlet or switch?
You can press in a small slotted screwdriver into the slot below the wire to release or if that doesn's work you can twist back and forth and pull them out.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs other way around - twist and pull will usually get them out, and if that fails, use the tab. or channies. if you're chaning out a lot, just crush the outlet with channies.
@@kenbrown2808 This is the voice of experience. Totally agree.
😮But, legacy 2-prong outlets can still be purchased, and outlets are still manufactured with back-stab connections and 14-AWG solid wire is allowed on 15-amp branch circuits...
What if I don’t have a ground and my outlets are wired in series. I don’t know which outlet is the main line so where would I install the gfci?
You'd have to determine which one is first in line from the panel. Once you do that, you're good to go.
the outlet closest to the panel is usually the first in line. once you've determined what outlets are on the circuit, you can separate the wires on the closest outlet, and see if that kills power to all of them. then you can find out which cable is the host side, and install 1 GFCI to protect the entire circuit - or, if the panel has been upgraded, you can install a GFCI breaker (I recommend a dual fault GFCI/AFCI breaker if they cost the same) also - the common term for that is daisy chain, rather than series - since series has a specific meaning in electrical work.
@@kenbrown2808 Thanks for the info and education on correct terminology, it is appreciated.
You left out the weather insulator. And yes, we want the teardown video.
I thought you were sold on the ECX drivers?
I was, until I switched over the the Klein Multi bits. I like the 16-in-1 but the 15-in-1 Klein comes with a combo bit as 1 of the 15 just like the ECX. I just like having to only carry 1 screwdriver for 99% of my DIY jobs.
I tried the ECX & didn’t find a big difference.
22 gauge wiring for a 20 amp receptacle good?
12 gauge would be the right match for 20-Amp.
The smallest AWG you can use on a 20 amp branch circuit is 12. The smallest AWG you can use on a 15 amp branch circuit is 14.
be aware that code does permit a screw to be driven through the side of a standard nail on box, as long as it doesn't leave sharp edges inside the box, and the screw head is far enough back to not accidentally contact the device. the boxes with the built in screw ports are, to me, worse than the alternative.
Nicks on the wire when stripping will break the wire with a few back and forths. There should be no nicks. It is amazing how easy the wire will break, do an experiment.
That’s right independent insurance is the best Albany, New York north east insurance call Mike
So ground up or ground down? And if you put ground up, do you still wire hot to gold and neutral to silver? Sorry if that’s dumb, but I’m having a hard time visualizing this.
Code doesn’t say anything about ground up or down, although you will find people claiming one way or the other is the only right way to do it. Some claim it’s safer up because a falling metal object wedged in between it and the wall will hit the ground first, not the hot prong. On the other hand , ground down will ensure outlets stay in place more reliably because the ground receptacle doesn’t wear out . Personally I prefer ground down. Hot still goes to the gold and silver to neutral regardless of how you orient the outlet in the box
Hot (black) goes to the gold screw terminal. Neutral (white) goes to the silver. Ground goes to the green. As a DIYer, I install receptacles one of two directions, 1)receptacle vertical with ground down, 2) receptacle horizontal with ground either on left or right, depending on the space.
@@ethansmith2326 Thank you.
@@Around_The_Home Thank you.
@@ethansmith2326We had this same discussion during my apprenticeship. You nailed the answer. Nice job.
I presume those lever receptacles are much more costly than the regular, commercial grade. Not at all worth it for me just to save a couple turns of a screwdriver.
I think they are between the price of spec grade and residential grade - they're made for manufactured/tract home use, so they're priced accordingly. (to be clear, the price difference is calculated to make them cheaper in the long run than the combination of turning the screwdriver and having bad connections come up while the home is still under warranty) - also, the leviton edge are not commercial grade.
7:44 You have 91,914 unread emails? That would stress me out.
That is actually down from what it was 😂
Here's a thought......
How many older houses in the us have 3 prong outlets with no ground, device protection............running Samsung's and microwaves n game caves with ps6s n xboxes n high end pc setups?
I'm guessing the number is really really high.......