Such a helpful and well-done video! 👏👏👏 I believe failing the GFCI test makes your top pick a non-starter for me. As much as having an LED light is a nice feature, I don’t think it’s worth the sacrifice in potential safety. BTW, for just a couple dollars extra, Ideal makes a model that does have a flashlight. It’s the 61-637. Maybe that would have been a better model for you to test for this video based on your use case.
100%, a good flashlight should already be something you carry and while nice to have built in would not place it above another device that actually did what its supposed to do which is detect live circuits. Primary function of any tool should always be the #1 priority before additional features, those are nice to have but if the tool can't cut it on its primary function it's a failure. This should be how any tool is judged but sadly companies know they can throw a bunch of cheap addons and people will over look poor performance on primary function because look at the cool light/bit holder/logo/whatever. I will say since all the information was presented it does mean we can all make a more informed decision based on what we find most important, so thank you.
I am a handy man for a living and own and use the IDEAL multiple times a week and it has not failed me in over 3 years of owning it. It does lose sensitivity when the battery gets low, but as long as you test it on a known live circuit first you will know when it's time to replace the batteries.
@@anthonyb8405 not that well, I was actually surprised he got it to work on the GFCI. I always take the cover off and probe the side posts. If it's a back fed you will likely have to pull out the outlet to be sure the tester is being accurate.
Fluke 1AC-A II. 41 year industrial electrician here (retired). You have to push it into the hot side of the duplex so you can leave it in there to cycle the circuit if necessary. I've used this one for decades.
I would go with the IDEAL. I would rather have all my bases covered with what works for electric detection, rather than miss reading the GFCI to have a flashlight. But that's just me. Thank you for doing all the ground work, that was a ton of information. A lot of people, including myself, buy the most expensive thinking it's the best. This clearly shows that that is not always the case. Thanks again :-))
You shouldn't be. They don't pass the grade in for proving a circuit is safe to work on. They are really only good for circuit identification, as it, it beeps, turn breaker off, it stops beeping, right we are on the right circuit, now we start making safe for work.
Retired from a large hospital that had a big safety department.We were instructed to test on a known live circuit, check the circuit you intend to work on then retest the NCV. Had to fill out a paper & have a senior electrician & safety department sign off on it. I would go one further measure by using insulated pliers would short out the wire especially on 480 volts. Would rather create a dead short then me getting electrocuted.
I have a Greenlee GT-12A. It passes all the tests you did except I didn’t do the drop test. It doesn’t have the flashlight but I have a headlamp if light is needed. I like that it’s not overly sensitive which helps detect specific wires in a bundle. It always detects the hot wire when touching it.
I've found that many of these have trouble sensing voltage on a tamper-resistant outlet. Conversely, some are so sensitive that they won't distinguish which hot wire has voltage on it (eg, incoming vs outgoing power, which can be a useful diagnostic tool), they just alert if any wire in the box has voltage. I use the Fluke 1AC II, my only complaint about it is that it's difficult to get it apart to change the batteries (fortunately they last a long time). And yes, I always test it on a known hot wire first (that seems like an obvious thing to do, I'm kind of surprised that some people don't do it).
Great test, Scott! Interesting results. I still think the Klein 3P is one of the best. But it shows you need to take care of your tools. (Maybe it needs a lanyard… 😆)
I slightly disagree with your second test with the romex. I want my non contact tester to be sensitive and give positive results only at close range, so I would NOT want a red indication when held on the neutral side of the romex. I often test the multiple wires coming into a light switch box, and want to know which ones are hot when they are all close together. So false positives are more important to me than false negatives. Thanks for making these videos!!
I agree with this. There are different testers for EXACTLY this reason. There are different conditions that you look for, and different testers have strengths in certain areas. I don't call that a fail. What about TR GFCIs? Precious few can do that well, and you should be using a plug checker instead of an NCV. Like you, I want accuracy for safety.
I was going to make the same comment. Plus, who only checks one side of a romex cable!? He didn't test a unit with variable sensitive either. That seems like a serious miss. If I am testing an outlet, I remove the plate and test the wires! The outlet could be bad while the wires are hot. If you want to test at the outlet, instead of the wires, use an outlet tester instead. I am giving this video a D.
Wow, Scott. Thank you. This was way more valuable than I thought it'd be. I haven't relied on those tickle pens for a while (because of false negatives), but I was surprised at some of these failures.
Drop test seems harsh for normal use/abuse. Perhaps you need a jackhammer with a built in circuit tester. I think I would go with the Klein with all the green checks (except the drop test). Thanks for all your efforts with these tests.❤
This was a great real life side by side experiment, thanks so much for doing it. Only thing I would like to see on your table is the min and Max voltage rating for each. I do a lot more low voltage work and would love to see those side by side to help with my own comparisons.
I use an old Gardner Bender , cheap and simple. I also check the side screw vs the socket.( I know the idea behind non contact is to be able to leave the cover plate on, but if I’m going to work on the outlet , I’ve already removed the cover plate, so I’m old school and I test by using leads on my volt meter forever.)
UPDATE ON MY PREVIOUS COMMENT: Just an FYI...Everything Scott discusses about his choice of the Southwire (40126N) I found to be accurate. It tested as stated - even on a few GFI'S - and I especially enjoy the flashlight - it's bright! HOWEVER, the instructions on how to install the two AA batteries does not inform you HOW HARD it is to so. Step One is essentially "Push here (A) and pull this (B)." I had to break out a mini flathead screwdriver to disengage the clasp, and then work the two items apart. I'll be turning 71 in a few days and have been doing this sort of work all my life. I don't feel incompetent and thought this assembly would be efficient and easy to do in the field without other tools. Since it will live in my go-to bag, I'll have something on hand to help me out. Apart from this hang-up, I'm not discouraged from his reviews nor this product, in particular. If your experiance is easier, I'd love to know how you did it! Thanks again...
Great video! Thank you! I carry both the Klein 3P and 4IR; they are both going on ~2 years in my carry bag. I generally only use the 4IR for the IR function. I haven't dropped them much, and that they've survived this long means they are sufficiently durable for my uses. I will consider Ideal in the future though, and am curious if their other models are similarly durable.
I have a love/hate relationship with those things. The best one I ever had was very cheap, very sensitive and had a dial on the side to adjust sensitivity. I could trace wires in a wall with it. Extremely useful. Next best one is one that can detect 12V+ because that will allow me to get close and have it go off. For me I just need to know if there is ANY electricity in the general vicinity of where I am working. Turning off breakers doesn't always work. If I could find that old cheap ones I'd buy 10 more lol.
Absolutely love my southwire! It DOES work on SOME GFCI outlets. Not all though. I do have GFCI tester and meter which I use for those although it would be nice to not have to worry about it. For the price, durability, and functionality of it though, it’ll always be my go-to.
Great vid! I am happy with your results. I thought your vid would end up making me lose confidence in my favorite tool. I prefer the Southwire. With the company credit card for over 20 years I was able to gather quite a few of these testers when needed for a quick job. I have only basic electrical skills so I check and double check everything before I touch and even then I am very careful. So my electrical kit when replacing ballasts in a retail store usually had 2 or 3 testers. When in doubt I used more than one to gain confidence. Usually a ballast replacement is pretty straight forward but if the light was tied into emergency lighting that's when things got interesting. I love my Southwire and it has saved my butt a ton of times.
Great video! I have been using an ideal for a number of years and I do like ideal products for electrical work. I really don't see a need for a flashlight as I carry a flashlight and a headlight, as far as the GFCI goes I use the receptacle tester that you showed at the beginning for all of my GFCI receptacles so I really don't need it for that purpose either. Thanks again
I really appreciate the testing, i personally use the Klein NCVT-5A since i always carry a flashlight with me (i like having a bright light that reaches across drop ceilings). The laser pointer has come in handy at times, not really an every day use but i use it enough where id notice not having it anymore.
Great video! You just missed the newly released Milwaukee tester. That thing is pretty sensitive compared to most and it auto detects between low and regular voltage. I actually really dig it because I’ve (sadly) owned over half of these 😂 it’s been a journey for sure.
I have a basic Southwire tester, the flashlight sucks on it but the tester part works great. I bought it 6 years ago when I started my apprenticeship, and I still have the same one. Other guys have the Klein and Fluke ones, and they are always broken or taped up.
Thanks, Scott! Always appreciate the tool and resource reviews. I'm building my tool collection and I definitely got great help from this review. Have a great week. Erick
I use the southwire. Good to learn about the GFCI failure. I don't "carry it everyday" as i'm a single home owner and just DIY when I have something come up.
It does seem weird as the distance from the face to the contacts should surely be the same as on a normal socket. Perhaps the better quality build blocks more of the electro magnetism, giving a weaker signal to detect.
I would have liked to see his the Flir VP 50/52 stacked up. I recently had seen another video where the electrician was more impressed with it's reliability than others he had used.
This is awesome... I've bought several models of Klein testers and was wondering if it was just mine that was failing or if it was a more widespread problem. For the price, why are these products even allowed on the market if they cant be trusted to do their job? Absolutely insane that a safety product like this can be allowed to continue to be sold - as a complete failure right out of the package.
I have the Kaiweets HT-100 purchased through Amazon July of 2021 Had to run out to the garage after seeing this video and test it GFCI outlet It worked just fine Very sensitive Did not do the drop test
I want to get better at electrical work, but I'd feel more comfortable building out a lab like you have here first, something I could add in light bulbs, switches, etc. Do you have any videos on building out electricity labs, how to pick equipment, how to power it, etc.?
I have (2) Kaiweets HT100s and both detect my GFCIs Hot Power Connection Slot. Not only that, It has two sensitivity settings (70V-1Kv, and 12V-1Kv). In the 12V-1Kv range, my (2) devices detect AC Voltage present 1” from the outlets and detect AC presence like no other NCV devices that I have used. As far as durability, I think is OK for DIY users (not for everyday professional work).
Biggest complaint on all of these is simply the on/off buttons that are a complete pain to use, its hard to turn on, hard to turn off, and the all turn themselves on in your tool belt. Second complaint is if you get one too sensitive it picks up other wires close to it, not sensitive enough and it won't pick up something like a GFCI.
I've had a Greenlee GT-12 for probably 18 years. Still works great and probably dropped it a few times over the years. Also worth noting - Greenlee is made in the USA and has a lifetime warranty.
I have (2) HT100s and work fine in the low sensitivity mode on my GFCIs and in the 12V-1KV higher sensitivity setting is great since it can check at 1" from the outlet and as you point out, even through Switch Plates...
I use the klein 1P. haven't come across a bad gfci issue yet for people so good to know it can't read them. I think the drop test is straight forward since they're all plastic lol but I use a quantum penlight as daily carry. plastic tabs snap so even though the ideal is solid and I don't NEED a light on my tester, I'd probably go for the klein 3P with a threaded cap to change rechargeable batteries. Greenlee did well but the design is goofy at the tip, I prefer the single probe as when there are tamper proof outlets that require simultaneous pressure in the plug, I can just sneak my klein near the side screws/conductors for a reading. well done with the video, the only choice I didn't see here is the klein NCVT1TX (water dustproof IP67) which although it has no light claims to have drop protection to 3 meters (wonder if it can read gfci).
As luck would have it I have a Southwire 40116N model (100-600v range) Good to know it’s a superior model, certainly more than good enough for household usage.
my preferred carry is the Milwaukee. but I'm currently carrying a Flir it has switchable dual range, a small worklight at the sensing end and a flashlight on the other end.
I have a EXTECH which detects before it contacts the GFCI outlet and has led light with audible alert. Before I owned or used a Fluke, Greenlee and Klein, I am more confident with the Extech.
Man, I love your videos. But here I feel a little like the 'home repairs' in your name is more accurate. You tested that for the ability of these detectors to see voltage on the hit side of the outlets, but not on the neutral side. That would have opened up a new world, as some of these are more sensitive for that reason. While it may seem trivial, understanding if you have voltage on the neutral leg or a false positive result is a serious concern. Each detector (they are not sampling voltage but rather detecting it) has a use in a specific instance. I currently carry 3, to include the FLIR not shown here. I also use 2 different fluke meters and plug checkers aside from these. The goal is always safety, so in a crowded 12x12 with 300 industrial connections because nobody ever follows code, you don't want a detector ringing on false positives. As a homeowner checking for a dead outlet, you're looking for a different tool. The judgment passed here is good but lacking detail, and I appreciate your testing! I'd love to see you dive deeper.
I have the fluke A1c and I really like it, I also have a cheap hobo freight model as well, the A1c works very well. The HF model gave me a false reading on a dead wire! So I’m trashing it.
You did not include a very reliable tester which I use: the Santronics AC Sensor, made in North Carolina. "The Santronics AC Sensor (3115) has been selected by the OSHA Electrical Technical Committee as the only instrument of its type for use by OSHA compliance officers to identify and cite electrical hazards of 50 Volts or more."
Are any of these rechargeable? I would think that would be a feature to mention. I use a Southwire 21510N clamp-on multi-meter which has an integrated NCV sensor. I seldom use that feature as it is rather sketchy, and being part of a full sized meter, makes it unsuitable for use in tight spaces. I prefer double checking with the probes anyway. If my purpose is to locate a breaker, trace exposed wiring, or find other devices (outlets or switches) on the same circuit, I use a Sperry CS550A. I use an Edison base to outlet adapter for tracing overhead light fixtures. As far as durability and reliability goes, my choice is also my cheapest. It's the ~$6 contact voltage tester. It will sense 80 to 250 volts, has integrated leads and a trusty neon light that should last 50 years. You could drop that from 25 feet 25 times and it would still work.
Thanks for the test. I'm not sure how anyone coluld pick the Southwire when it can't read the GFCI. I can understand the Ideal pick. I would take the Klein 3P over the Southwire in a heart beat. Yes, it was damaged, but can one really expect to consitently drop this tool on the tip for 25 times? The clip end of the 3P is much heavier so you would have to aim it, as you did, when you drop it. Thanks again Scott. JimE
I have had good success with a south wire circuit breaker detector. It was not very expensive. I carried a fluke NCVD every day for about 10 to 12 years it worked well until it got stepped on, but if a 240 lb man stepped on you you would not work very well either. I have a Simpson 260 - P analog multimeter I have had for around fifty years, it works but the jewels in the movement are worn out and the needle is jerky so I retired him.
I have mountains of fluke 1ac's and are definitely my second choice. My number one choice is santroics not gonna win the durability race but has the best sensitivity. It can identify hot and neutral right next to each other. A overly sensitive club of nct dosent tell me much. But a santroics on az or get one from a supply house with there name on it you'll be impressed. They are made in the usa yes electronics made in usa! One of the best features is it's always on no power button and yes batteries last a year plus for me. You defently missed one of thr best ones for the roundup.
I have a 5 dollar one from harbor freight that is 12v-50v but the thing actually works on every voltage. Lets me know where any electricity is no matter where. I've tested it all over the place.
I had a southwire until I got a recall notice from the CPSC due to false no voltage readings. Switched to fluke and haven’t been zapped yet. But the death sticks comments and advice to use a multimeter have me thinking. Also please explain why so many units can’t sense the voltage in the gfci outlets.
Specifically this GFCI outlet had a pretty thick faceplate so that additional offset from the internals seemed to be a challenge for the less sensitive testers.
I use my non contact tester (Fluke 1-ac I think) for testing wires. I use an outlet tester for testing outlets. I have never been in a situation where I wished I could shove the non-contact tester into an outlet, but if I needed to, I could just remove the outlet cover plate and test the wire connection on the side. If you use the backstab connectors that can't be tested this way, you probably shouldn't be doing anything with electricity because you are not mentally qualified.
I have the Klein 1p and the pocket clip broke the very first time I used it. In all fairness, the device still works but the clip breaking off was not a good first impression.
This may seem like a ridiculous request, but can you test the strength of the pocket clips? I’ve had several different brands that have broken immediately. I’m wondering if the is one I can clip to my bag confidently
Drop test on the butt would be good too. My klein broke from a drop. The tab the captures the butt-end battery cover/clip broke, so I have to hold it together with my thumb
To be fair I doubt anyone would drop their voltage tester on the tip (test end), 25 times. As with any test equipment they should be handled with care or they could be damaged out of calibration. But the Southward is under $21 on Amazon right now.
First off, I really enjoy your videos. But I think your drop test was exaggerated a bit. The Klein 3P has been your daily carry, but now all of a sudden you changed. The light was critical for you on daily carry. For almost the same price, just stick with the 3P, but just don't drop it (as much). Thats my preference, and opinion...
That GFCI had a pretty thick front cover/plate which was a challenge for some of the testers. I don't think all GFCI outlets have that much plastic on the front cover.
Ideal has the 61-647 which is identical to the Ideal you tested except it also has a light and mute function. It also passes all of your tests, ask me how I know...
Ive seen and experienced too many issues with the klein to go anywhere near them. Ive very rarely had issues with a fluke usually an open neutral and ghost voltage. Ideal does make models with lights if you actually wanted a light however i find your in real trouble if your actually using them as a flashlight i mean i rather use my phone for light than the output off one of these but to each their own just look at the other ideal lineup and redo your testing.
Such a helpful and well-done video! 👏👏👏 I believe failing the GFCI test makes your top pick a non-starter for me. As much as having an LED light is a nice feature, I don’t think it’s worth the sacrifice in potential safety. BTW, for just a couple dollars extra, Ideal makes a model that does have a flashlight. It’s the 61-637. Maybe that would have been a better model for you to test for this video based on your use case.
100%, a good flashlight should already be something you carry and while nice to have built in would not place it above another device that actually did what its supposed to do which is detect live circuits. Primary function of any tool should always be the #1 priority before additional features, those are nice to have but if the tool can't cut it on its primary function it's a failure. This should be how any tool is judged but sadly companies know they can throw a bunch of cheap addons and people will over look poor performance on primary function because look at the cool light/bit holder/logo/whatever.
I will say since all the information was presented it does mean we can all make a more informed decision based on what we find most important, so thank you.
I am a handy man for a living and own and use the IDEAL multiple times a week and it has not failed me in over 3 years of owning it. It does lose sensitivity when the battery gets low, but as long as you test it on a known live circuit first you will know when it's time to replace the batteries.
How does it do on tamper resistant outlets?
@@anthonyb8405 not that well, I was actually surprised he got it to work on the GFCI. I always take the cover off and probe the side posts. If it's a back fed you will likely have to pull out the outlet to be sure the tester is being accurate.
Fluke 1AC-A II. 41 year industrial electrician here (retired). You have to push it into the hot side of the duplex so you can leave it in there to cycle the circuit if necessary. I've used this one for decades.
I would go with the IDEAL. I would rather have all my bases covered with
what works for electric detection, rather than miss reading the GFCI to have
a flashlight. But that's just me. Thank you for doing all the ground work, that
was a ton of information. A lot of people, including myself, buy the most expensive
thinking it's the best. This clearly shows that that is not always the case. Thanks again :-))
I completely agree with your thoughts.
Next model up has a flash light. Just $5 more.
I find it crazy that more than half of these didn't detect power on the GFCI outlet!
You shouldn't be. They don't pass the grade in for proving a circuit is safe to work on. They are really only good for circuit identification, as it, it beeps, turn breaker off, it stops beeping, right we are on the right circuit, now we start making safe for work.
China
All the ones I've had start beeping at around 8 to 10 inches out.
If you test the screw connector it would show voltage.
The safe use procedure for NCV testers starts with a check of the tester on a known live source, daily before use in the field.
At this point I'd be happy if we can get them working the first time after unpackaging it.
Retired from a large hospital that had a big safety department.We were instructed to test on a known live circuit, check the circuit you intend to work on then retest the NCV. Had to fill out a paper & have a senior electrician & safety department sign off on it. I would go one further measure by using insulated pliers would short out the wire especially on 480 volts. Would rather create a dead short then me getting electrocuted.
I have a Greenlee GT-12A. It passes all the tests you did except I didn’t do the drop test. It doesn’t have the flashlight but I have a headlamp if light is needed. I like that it’s not overly sensitive which helps detect specific wires in a bundle. It always detects the hot wire when touching it.
I've found that many of these have trouble sensing voltage on a tamper-resistant outlet. Conversely, some are so sensitive that they won't distinguish which hot wire has voltage on it (eg, incoming vs outgoing power, which can be a useful diagnostic tool), they just alert if any wire in the box has voltage. I use the Fluke 1AC II, my only complaint about it is that it's difficult to get it apart to change the batteries (fortunately they last a long time). And yes, I always test it on a known hot wire first (that seems like an obvious thing to do, I'm kind of surprised that some people don't do it).
Great test, Scott! Interesting results. I still think the Klein 3P is one of the best. But it shows you need to take care of your tools. (Maybe it needs a lanyard… 😆)
I slightly disagree with your second test with the romex. I want my non contact tester to be sensitive and give positive results only at close range, so I would NOT want a red indication when held on the neutral side of the romex. I often test the multiple wires coming into a light switch box, and want to know which ones are hot when they are all close together. So false positives are more important to me than false negatives. Thanks for making these videos!!
Get a santroics one it can do what your asking.
I agree with this. There are different testers for EXACTLY this reason. There are different conditions that you look for, and different testers have strengths in certain areas. I don't call that a fail.
What about TR GFCIs? Precious few can do that well, and you should be using a plug checker instead of an NCV.
Like you, I want accuracy for safety.
I was going to make the same comment. Plus, who only checks one side of a romex cable!?
He didn't test a unit with variable sensitive either. That seems like a serious miss.
If I am testing an outlet, I remove the plate and test the wires! The outlet could be bad while the wires are hot. If you want to test at the outlet, instead of the wires, use an outlet tester instead. I am giving this video a D.
Wow, Scott. Thank you. This was way more valuable than I thought it'd be.
I haven't relied on those tickle pens for a while (because of false negatives), but I was surprised at some of these failures.
“Good Lord, Hank. The neighbor is throwing tools on the ground now!”
“Ok mother…I’ll get the water hose, you call 911”
😂
Drop test seems harsh for normal use/abuse. Perhaps you need a jackhammer with a built in circuit tester. I think I would go with the Klein with all the green checks (except the drop test). Thanks for all your efforts with these tests.❤
This was a great real life side by side experiment, thanks so much for doing it.
Only thing I would like to see on your table is the min and Max voltage rating for each. I do a lot more low voltage work and would love to see those side by side to help with my own comparisons.
You just project pharmd our tickers, and I like it, nice video, keep up the good work
Thanks man 👍
I use an old Gardner Bender , cheap and simple. I also check the side screw vs the socket.( I know the idea behind non contact is to be able to leave the cover plate on, but if I’m going to work on the outlet , I’ve already removed the cover plate, so I’m old school and I test by using leads on my volt meter forever.)
Good video. I enjoy seeing reviews like this!
UPDATE ON MY PREVIOUS COMMENT: Just an FYI...Everything Scott discusses about his choice of the Southwire (40126N) I found to be accurate. It tested as stated - even on a few GFI'S - and I especially enjoy the flashlight - it's bright!
HOWEVER, the instructions on how to install the two AA batteries does not inform you HOW HARD it is to so. Step One is essentially "Push here (A) and pull this (B)." I had to break out a mini flathead screwdriver to disengage the clasp, and then work the two items apart. I'll be turning 71 in a few days and have been doing this sort of work all my life. I don't feel incompetent and thought this assembly would be efficient and easy to do in the field without other tools. Since it will live in my go-to bag, I'll have something on hand to help me out.
Apart from this hang-up, I'm not discouraged from his reviews nor this product, in particular. If your experiance is easier, I'd love to know how you did it! Thanks again...
Great video! Thank you! I carry both the Klein 3P and 4IR; they are both going on ~2 years in my carry bag. I generally only use the 4IR for the IR function. I haven't dropped them much, and that they've survived this long means they are sufficiently durable for my uses. I will consider Ideal in the future though, and am curious if their other models are similarly durable.
I have a love/hate relationship with those things. The best one I ever had was very cheap, very sensitive and had a dial on the side to adjust sensitivity. I could trace wires in a wall with it. Extremely useful.
Next best one is one that can detect 12V+ because that will allow me to get close and have it go off.
For me I just need to know if there is ANY electricity in the general vicinity of where I am working. Turning off breakers doesn't always work.
If I could find that old cheap ones I'd buy 10 more lol.
Absolutely love my southwire! It DOES work on SOME GFCI outlets. Not all though. I do have GFCI tester and meter which I use for those although it would be nice to not have to worry about it. For the price, durability, and functionality of it though, it’ll always be my go-to.
Great vid! I am happy with your results. I thought your vid would end up making me lose confidence in my favorite tool. I prefer the Southwire. With the company credit card for over 20 years I was able to gather quite a few of these testers when needed for a quick job. I have only basic electrical skills so I check and double check everything before I touch and even then I am very careful. So my electrical kit when replacing ballasts in a retail store usually had 2 or 3 testers. When in doubt I used more than one to gain confidence. Usually a ballast replacement is pretty straight forward but if the light was tied into emergency lighting that's when things got interesting. I love my Southwire and it has saved my butt a ton of times.
Great video! I have been using an ideal for a number of years and I do like ideal products for electrical work. I really don't see a need for a flashlight as I carry a flashlight and a headlight, as far as the GFCI goes I use the receptacle tester that you showed at the beginning for all of my GFCI receptacles so I really don't need it for that purpose either. Thanks again
I really appreciate the testing, i personally use the Klein NCVT-5A since i always carry a flashlight with me (i like having a bright light that reaches across drop ceilings). The laser pointer has come in handy at times, not really an every day use but i use it enough where id notice not having it anymore.
Great video! You just missed the newly released Milwaukee tester. That thing is pretty sensitive compared to most and it auto detects between low and regular voltage. I actually really dig it because I’ve (sadly) owned over half of these 😂 it’s been a journey for sure.
I have an old school
Greenlee I have had it for years never any false readings and works great
The Dropped Test is Over Done 😮😮
I have the Klein Tools NCVT3P, the light is invaluable. The battery life on it last forever aswell.
I have a basic Southwire tester, the flashlight sucks on it but the tester part works great. I bought it 6 years ago when I started my apprenticeship, and I still have the same one. Other guys have the Klein and Fluke ones, and they are always broken or taped up.
Thanks, Scott! Always appreciate the tool and resource reviews. I'm building my tool collection and I definitely got great help from this review. Have a great week. Erick
jesus bro, outstanding method and detail and presentation. wow! thank you!
Thanks man 👊
I have found (in the past) Southwire electrical tools to be of low/questionable quality. Thank you for this review/test!
I use the southwire. Good to learn about the GFCI failure. I don't "carry it everyday" as i'm a single home owner and just DIY when I have something come up.
I know it's not a topic of the video, but WHY don't those testers pick up the voltage on the GFCI outlet?
most likely, the probe is a little short or fat to get close enough to the contacts in the GFCI.
Inquiring minds want to know!
It does seem weird as the distance from the face to the contacts should surely be the same as on a normal socket. Perhaps the better quality build blocks more of the electro magnetism, giving a weaker signal to detect.
@@45KevinR that is entirely possible.
I’m thinking it has to do with the spring loaded plastic shield that makes it “tamper resistant”….possibly interfering?
Unfortunately I got the worst one of all which is the p1. Great information
Yeah, those are cheap but unfortunately you get what you pay for on that one. Don't drop it 😉
I would have liked to see his the Flir VP 50/52 stacked up. I recently had seen another video where the electrician was more impressed with it's reliability than others he had used.
This is awesome... I've bought several models of Klein testers and was wondering if it was just mine that was failing or if it was a more widespread problem.
For the price, why are these products even allowed on the market if they cant be trusted to do their job? Absolutely insane that a safety product like this can be allowed to continue to be sold - as a complete failure right out of the package.
I have the Kaiweets HT-100 purchased through Amazon July of 2021
Had to run out to the garage after seeing this video and test it GFCI outlet
It worked just fine
Very sensitive
Did not do the drop test
This specific GFCI has a thick face plate and proved to be a tougher test for a few of the testers. Thanks for the feedback!
I want to get better at electrical work, but I'd feel more comfortable building out a lab like you have here first, something I could add in light bulbs, switches, etc. Do you have any videos on building out electricity labs, how to pick equipment, how to power it, etc.?
I have (2) Kaiweets HT100s and both detect my GFCIs Hot Power Connection Slot. Not only that, It has two sensitivity settings (70V-1Kv, and 12V-1Kv).
In the 12V-1Kv range, my (2) devices detect AC Voltage present 1” from the outlets and detect AC presence like no other NCV devices that I have used. As far as durability, I think is OK for DIY users (not for everyday professional work).
Biggest complaint on all of these is simply the on/off buttons that are a complete pain to use, its hard to turn on, hard to turn off, and the all turn themselves on in your tool belt. Second complaint is if you get one too sensitive it picks up other wires close to it, not sensitive enough and it won't pick up something like a GFCI.
I've had a Greenlee GT-12 for probably 18 years. Still works great and probably dropped it a few times over the years. Also worth noting - Greenlee is made in the USA and has a lifetime warranty.
I have the Klein one with the non contact thermometer and I love it. I will just need to make sure not to drop it to much.
The Kaiweets that I have on the 12V-1kV mode can easily detect gfci hots and even the hot in a light switch through the plate
I have (2) HT100s and work fine in the low sensitivity mode on my GFCIs and in the 12V-1KV higher sensitivity setting is great since it can check at 1" from the outlet and as you point out, even through Switch Plates...
I use the klein 1P. haven't come across a bad gfci issue yet for people so good to know it can't read them. I think the drop test is straight forward since they're all plastic lol but I use a quantum penlight as daily carry. plastic tabs snap so even though the ideal is solid and I don't NEED a light on my tester, I'd probably go for the klein 3P with a threaded cap to change rechargeable batteries. Greenlee did well but the design is goofy at the tip, I prefer the single probe as when there are tamper proof outlets that require simultaneous pressure in the plug, I can just sneak my klein near the side screws/conductors for a reading. well done with the video, the only choice I didn't see here is the klein NCVT1TX (water dustproof IP67) which although it has no light claims to have drop protection to 3 meters (wonder if it can read gfci).
As luck would have it I have a Southwire 40116N model (100-600v range)
Good to know it’s a superior model, certainly more than good enough for household usage.
my preferred carry is the Milwaukee. but I'm currently carrying a Flir it has switchable dual range, a small worklight at the sensing end and a flashlight on the other end.
I had a Flir, it was terrible, completely unreliable due to the way the battery terminals were arranged. Got a Fluke, but now use a Southwire.
@@ckm-mkc the only issue I have with it is it eats batteries.
Excellent review. Thanks for the video.
I have a EXTECH which detects before it contacts the GFCI outlet and has led light with audible alert. Before I owned or used a Fluke, Greenlee and Klein, I am more confident with the Extech.
Man that Extech looks really similar to the Southwire. 🤔
GREAT testing!
Man, I love your videos. But here I feel a little like the 'home repairs' in your name is more accurate.
You tested that for the ability of these detectors to see voltage on the hit side of the outlets, but not on the neutral side. That would have opened up a new world, as some of these are more sensitive for that reason. While it may seem trivial, understanding if you have voltage on the neutral leg or a false positive result is a serious concern.
Each detector (they are not sampling voltage but rather detecting it) has a use in a specific instance. I currently carry 3, to include the FLIR not shown here. I also use 2 different fluke meters and plug checkers aside from these.
The goal is always safety, so in a crowded 12x12 with 300 industrial connections because nobody ever follows code, you don't want a detector ringing on false positives. As a homeowner checking for a dead outlet, you're looking for a different tool.
The judgment passed here is good but lacking detail, and I appreciate your testing! I'd love to see you dive deeper.
Thanks for the feedback. How is the FLIR working out? That is the one with the larger flashlight on the non-testing end, right?
Any of them have issues with tamper resistant outlets? Great video BTW! 👍
I have the fluke A1c and I really like it, I also have a cheap hobo freight model as well, the A1c works very well. The HF model gave me a false reading on a dead wire! So I’m trashing it.
Wish you
added the Harborfreight one - I have had good results with it
You did not include a very reliable tester which I use: the Santronics AC Sensor, made in North Carolina. "The Santronics AC Sensor (3115) has been selected by the OSHA Electrical Technical Committee as the only instrument of its type for use by OSHA compliance officers to identify and cite electrical hazards of 50 Volts or more."
Are any of these rechargeable? I would think that would be a feature to mention.
I use a Southwire 21510N clamp-on multi-meter which has an integrated NCV sensor. I seldom use that feature as it is rather sketchy, and being part of a full sized meter, makes it unsuitable for use in tight spaces. I prefer double checking with the probes anyway.
If my purpose is to locate a breaker, trace exposed wiring, or find other devices (outlets or switches) on the same circuit, I use a Sperry CS550A. I use an Edison base to outlet adapter for tracing overhead light fixtures.
As far as durability and reliability goes, my choice is also my cheapest. It's the ~$6 contact voltage tester. It will sense 80 to 250 volts, has integrated leads and a trusty neon light that should last 50 years. You could drop that from 25 feet 25 times and it would still work.
I use a Klein Tools ncvt-2, its great no issues what so ever.
Thanks for the test. I'm not sure how anyone coluld pick the Southwire when it can't read the GFCI. I can understand the Ideal pick. I would take the Klein 3P over the Southwire in a heart beat. Yes, it was damaged, but can one really expect to consitently drop this tool on the tip for 25 times? The clip end of the 3P is much heavier so you would have to aim it, as you did, when you drop it. Thanks again Scott. JimE
I've got one made by kobalt. No special features but it was reasonably priced, good range, and I haven't got zapped yet.
Make a video lesson about various Circuit Analyzers testing wall outlets using different LOAD Tests in the Circuit Analyzers
Dude, your neighbors must think you are nuts! We can confirm that for them. If you drop your tool 25 times you need a new career!
😂 fair point.
Klein 3P is my go to
I really wanted the 3P to win as it has treated me well for years.
I have had good success with a south wire circuit breaker detector. It was not very expensive. I carried a fluke NCVD every day for about 10 to 12 years it worked well until it got stepped on, but if a 240 lb man stepped on you you would not work very well either. I have a Simpson 260 - P analog multimeter I have had for around fifty years, it works but the jewels in the movement are worn out and the needle is jerky so I retired him.
I have mountains of fluke 1ac's and are definitely my second choice. My number one choice is santroics not gonna win the durability race but has the best sensitivity. It can identify hot and neutral right next to each other. A overly sensitive club of nct dosent tell me much. But a santroics on az or get one from a supply house with there name on it you'll be impressed. They are made in the usa yes electronics made in usa! One of the best features is it's always on no power button and yes batteries last a year plus for me. You defently missed one of thr best ones for the roundup.
I suggest Milwaukee with LED light the best tester in the market.
Totally Recommend.
Thanks so much for the feedback.
I have the Klein 3P and I have dropped it a few times and if I shake it; it shorts it out but its still reading hot so I haven't replaced it yet lol
was hoping you were testing the FLIR - have heard great things - has a built in light also
I have a 5 dollar one from harbor freight that is 12v-50v but the thing actually works on every voltage. Lets me know where any electricity is no matter where. I've tested it all over the place.
I had a southwire until I got a recall notice from the CPSC due to false no voltage readings. Switched to fluke and haven’t been zapped yet. But the death sticks comments and advice to use a multimeter have me thinking. Also please explain why so many units can’t sense the voltage in the gfci outlets.
Specifically this GFCI outlet had a pretty thick faceplate so that additional offset from the internals seemed to be a challenge for the less sensitive testers.
Clamp meters next! AC/DC!
Kaweets you have manually select sensitivity.
I think the ideal is a better choice since I think GFCI detection is more important than a light and I thought you were doing a low voltage test
as a home inspector ive been carrying the 3p for many years. also i have never dropped it once.
It is a nice tester and possibly the best light of the bunch 💯
I own a dozen high end meters and testers, but unless I need to test capacitors I use a T6-1000 Pro for everything.
I use my non contact tester (Fluke 1-ac I think) for testing wires. I use an outlet tester for testing outlets. I have never been in a situation where I wished I could shove the non-contact tester into an outlet, but if I needed to, I could just remove the outlet cover plate and test the wire connection on the side. If you use the backstab connectors that can't be tested this way, you probably shouldn't be doing anything with electricity because you are not mentally qualified.
I have the Klein 1p and the pocket clip broke the very first time I used it. In all fairness, the device still works but the clip breaking off was not a good first impression.
Fantastic content 👌 👏 👍
Thanks so much 🙌
Dont some of these allow you to find/detect a live wire up to 12" inside a drywall wall?
This may seem like a ridiculous request, but can you test the strength of the pocket clips? I’ve had several different brands that have broken immediately. I’m wondering if the is one I can clip to my bag confidently
Drop test on the butt would be good too. My klein broke from a drop. The tab the captures the butt-end battery cover/clip broke, so I have to hold it together with my thumb
Watch out Project Farm. Scott’s gunning for your viewers.
Should have tested them against non-live wire. I've had false positives sometimes... although I was using kaiweet one.
I think the most important thing to remember here is that you shouldn’t trust your contactless voltage detector with your life.
Ideal is most durable, dropped so many times and works well after a year
I would have to agree 👍
This is honestly my problem with NCV testers; the lack of a durability. I wish someone made a metal one.
To be fair I doubt anyone would drop their voltage tester on the tip (test end), 25 times. As with any test equipment they should be handled with care or they could be damaged out of calibration. But the Southward is under $21 on Amazon right now.
First off, I really enjoy your videos. But I think your drop test was exaggerated a bit. The Klein 3P has been your daily carry, but now all of a sudden you changed. The light was critical for you on daily carry. For almost the same price, just stick with the 3P, but just don't drop it (as much). Thats my preference, and opinion...
Those Kliens come with the cheapest batteries that will leak. Replace them as soon as you open the package.
No doubt, I hate those super cheap batteries.
Great video!!!!!
Thanks!
I'd like to see how Flir does compared to the ones in the video.
The number one failure here is not wearing kneepads when kneeling, particularly on concrete. I’m retired now, so DAMHIKT.
I actually have the Klein Tools 2P model
I have the same southwire and it detect power on gfci
That GFCI had a pretty thick front cover/plate which was a challenge for some of the testers. I don't think all GFCI outlets have that much plastic on the front cover.
fixmyproperty AI fixes this. The Ultimate Voltage Tester Battle
I have the Southwire, it replaced a Fluke.
Thanks for the feedback!
Ideal has the 61-647 which is identical to the Ideal you tested except it also has a light and mute function. It also passes all of your tests, ask me how I know...
You didn’t test the AMES .
I am so glad you got the chance to see him
Ive seen and experienced too many issues with the klein to go anywhere near them. Ive very rarely had issues with a fluke usually an open neutral and ghost voltage. Ideal does make models with lights if you actually wanted a light however i find your in real trouble if your actually using them as a flashlight i mean i rather use my phone for light than the output off one of these but to each their own just look at the other ideal lineup and redo your testing.
Thanks for the feedback.
The fact that they can't detect GFCI scares the shit out of me.
The thick faceplate on that GFCI was a challenge for several of those testers.