How to Remove and Paint Undercarriage Rust Using Krud Kutter
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- How to clean up underbody #rust on a budget, this is a different method than what was shown in a previous video I used. For this I am using the #ToyotaTacoma, at the axle back is the worst of the rust on this truck but thankfully the frame is still solid. This method can also be used on frames. The rear axles on these trucks are known for rotting out so I’m wanting to clean this up and provide a layer of protection so it doesn’t get worse. As some of you may have remembered, I did some brake work to the rear, replacing the back brakes, wheel cylinders, and rear brake lines. With the rear somewhat disassembled, this is a great time to clean up the rust.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-die grinder
-wire wheel
-air compressor
-rust treatment chemical
-farm implement paint
-degreaser
-hose
-brush
-plastic container
-respirator
-safety glasses
-tape, paper, plastic wrap, or tin foil
Procedure:
If required, spray on a degreaser and then pressure wash the underside of the truck. Try to knock off a majority of the scale using a scraper and ball peen hammer. To keep this mess somewhat contained, I have laid down a tarp which makes for easy cleanup.
These trucks are known to have the differential vents rust up, not allowing the pressure to be released. This will eventually cause the seals to seep, as shown by the pinion area. Using a degreaser, I washed away the oil residue left from the seeping seal. Then using a die grinder with a wire wheel, clean up the surface removing the rust.
Degrease the surface now, using a strong form of detergent, spray on the solution and allow it to soak in for a moment. Then rinse sufficiently using a hose. Using an air compressor to remove any standing water and help dry the surface. With the surface still slightly damp, this is fine as this is the requirement for the rust treatment I’m using.
Dumping the concentrated chemical in a plastic container, it can be mixed with water according to the instructions. I’d recommend wearing gloves, a respirator, safety glasses and work in a well-ventilated area.
Apply it to the surface using a brush. It does take a bit of time to dry and dry times will vary depending on your climate. For extreme rust, a second application is required which I did. The second application I did dilute with water, a 50/50 mixture.
For paint, I used a farm implements from the local farm equipment dealer. This paint can be applied using a brush, roller, or spray gun. With a spray gun, it’s required to be thinned using their products. I applied the paint using a cheap hvlp spray gun. Any areas I didn’t want to be covered in paint had plastic wrap applied. It can be applied to bare metal and does have some rust inhibiting qualities.
After a couple days of drying, reassembled the components on the rear axle. Any fasteners on the axle were replaced with stainless steel to prevent rusting. The areas where the jack stands are will be touched up after with a brush.
After a month of curing and when everything else was finished up, the axle was then treated with a rust-inhibiting spray. I used a mixture of linseed oil and WD40. It’s best to apply this in an area in which you don’t have to worry about staining the ground. Then allow the vehicle to sit in this area for 24hrs as it will drip to some extent.
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SPEEDED UP VIDEO.
PROFESSIONALY NARRATED.
LINSEED IS NEW TO ME.
YOU DESERVE A AWARD FOR YOUR FILMMAKING.
Thanks subscribed!
Thank you so much for the kind words and support! Comments like yours definitely make my day.
@@4DIYers Blessings wow thanks for reply.
Yes I mean it.
I've study film and television directed .But not mastered film making. Jesus has helped me to encourage others.
Thanks for posting like the clear no bs directions and good lighting and angles so we can see and hear what we need to and get the job done! Also just a warning to viewers When degreasing rear end differential area be careful NOT to spray the u joints on driveshaft many drivers forget or delay lube maintenance since many newer cars and trucks are "non serviceable" meaning they don't have zerk or grease gun fittings...but after 100k miles these parts all but dry up so be sure to grease any moving parts as needed not with wd40 but at least a small tub of hi temp grease and some latex gloves you can make a small pin hole in rubber stick a syringe type fitting in there to really pack bearings bushings and joints and help them work and last longer.
Hats off to all the work you did, I have done the same on 1st gen tundra's but I will never do it again. Here's why, whenever you paint over metal that is joined together you will trap some rust, which will find it's way out by bubbling up and rusting from within. I have found that knocking the scale off and hitting with fluid film or oil is exponentially better option.
I left a quote not so long ago - my sons working on our Cherokee. Again, if our could see what your video has done as a catalyst for younger kids getting dirty, learning and using tools during COVID, I think you’d be awestruck. As virtual learning commences and waffles, we’ve created our own self-imposed Vo-Tech program. As a stay at home Dad, I’ve found my own dormant competence put to use - teaching a hands-on working process from start to finish, safely and properly. Thank You, Again. 🇺🇸.
Thank you so much for creating this video! I followed it and redid the underside of an Xterra I bought that came from New York with a lot of rust. I did use a compressor with needler and a number of different size wire brushes. I applied the Krud Kutter with a spray bottle - that stuff is amazing. I painted with Rustoleum Farm and Implements - mixed 4:3 with acetone and sprayed on with HVLP.
Came out fantastic!
Happy I could help and thank you for the feedback!
I just got a truck that came from Michigan. How bad was your undercarriage?
How is it holding up?
I used krud cutter on an old john deere tractor when I dismantled it. cleaned the frame and applied this stuff. works great. took the rust off in no time. primed and re-painted. on the muffler it was very effective.
Thank you for the feedback! I've been using it on quite a few projects and it's held up great. Even for cleaning and as a protection on rusty files.
Got that flight attendant voice.
You mean pilot 😀😂..."Ladies and Gentlemen, the sky's look clear and we're about to land in 10 mins." Lol
💀😂
Lol, yup
ruclips.net/user/shorts2Njq3i4q6GQ?feature=share good video thanks
Emergency exit are located in front of you 😁
I really like your text recap, helps to reinforce what I just saw on your vid.
Thank you :)
For treating inside of the frame rails, check out Eastwood rust encapsulator with their cap/hose add-on that sprays in a radial pattern.
I am really glad I came across your channel. Sadly, I painted a quarter of my frame already, but when I pull the engine I will wire brush it down and use the inhibitor like you showed here. You just got another subscriber!
Thank you so much for the kind words and support! What process did you use for cleaning up the first portion?
Hey, just a tip I heard from a fella who has lived forever in an area that salts heavily....
Use bar and chain oil instead of linseed oil. It does the same thing, is cheap, and it sticks really well. Make sure you use the summer blend, because it's thicker.
Yep, I have heard of people using chain oil before. Great tip, thanks for sharing!
This before painting or just use the oil and no paint?
@@dopey3511 never oil anything before painting
Painting wouldnt do jack with everything all covered in oil
@@dopey3511 the purpose of the paint is to protect the metal from oxidizing in the air / weather -- like a skin. The oil / undercoating is to protect the paint, to protect the metal. If that makes sense.
I just bought a beater ranger in this market was thinking a made a big mistake because it’s got a lot of surface rust but you inspired me it’s not so bad. You systematically overpowered that rust looks great.
Thank you so much! Keep me posted on the results too.
I wish I could post pictures here... This has been fantastic for our Jeep XJ and getting our boys into a dirty fun job during COVID. THX👍
You can share photos on my Facebook or Instagram pages. Awesome to hear and glad I could help :)
I use bar & chain oil for chainsaws.
Warm up the spray bottles in a pan of boiling water.
Spray underside of truck with a Fluid Film gun from Amazon.
8 years
310,000 miles
No rust
I live in New England
How often do you spray it?
@@danbaumann8273 AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!!
Or immediately after buying the truck.
Spray undercarriage, get inside frame rails, drill holes in door rocker panels to spray inside and back into cab corners.
Drive for 6 months.
Spray again.
Then once per year should be fine after that. Maybe even skip a year.
I have 4-5 coats on an 8 year old truck.
FordTechMakuloco made an extremely thorough video using Woolwax.
Woolwax, fluid film are very good.
Chainsaw oil is very, very good. Creeps into seams well.
Only $10-15/ gallon vs $40-60 per gallon for others
Do some research.
Pick what you like.
I STRONGLY DISCOURAGE used motor oil or ATF.
Used oil is WAY too thin and full of corrosive and contaminants.
ATF is even thinner again.
No good
@@philipunderwood477
Wow, thanks for the detailed response. Really appreciate it.
Yeah, heard that about used oil and ATF does seem too thin for the underside.
@@philipunderwood477
I live up in western Canada. Not quite as bad here as you guys have it but not great and they’re starting to use salt a lot.
@@danbaumann8273
Repairgeek on RUclips has some good videos comparing different products.
He's in northern Ohio.
Even did a 1 year and 2 year review
He swears by fluid film.
In his test, the bar & chain oil didn't perform quite as well.
But it was a static test, and didn't get a chance to drive around and let some road dust or tire dust stick to the coatings.
Project farm RUclips also did a comparison.
There's lots out there
I couldn't debate, or argue, with this guy at gun point. He is completely matter a fact. I already feel that perhaps I may not be worthy of this absolute ,and information coming from this cat. I only wish I could express my self in such a manner. Thank you for the inlighning information.well none!
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback, greatly appreciated!
I am just about to start my 1967 Mustang underneath cosmetic resto. So glad I came across this YT video that was suggested to me. My underneath is not even near as bad as your truck so I am glad of that. Thanks, very detailed the thorough showing each step. I also like your approach to safety. I will shut up now, and hit the subscribe and like buttons. Cheers from Motown. Bob
Thank you so much for the kind words, feedback, and support! Greatly appreciated :)
I like seeing the Princess Auto bags over the jack stands.
I like to see nice shiny or satin finish original paintwork undeneath my vehicles. Regular wax polishing of all major components and 6 monthly inspections, cleaning and any necessary attentions help to keep things original and nice to look at. I especially like to see the look on the state inspectors' faces when they start prying and prodding trying to find faults each year!
Awesome vid. Thank you. The rubber undercoating trapping in some rust is a great point. So many services around offering rubber undercoating and I thought exactly what you mentioned.
Thank you so much, I appreciate the kind words! Rubber coating looks great after it’s applied, that’s really the only benefit from it. I think it’s used a lot to hide faults.
Fluid Film is also a great product for undercoating the frame. Nice video!
Great tip and thank you for the feedback!
Great idea with the linseed oil wd 40 mix! Subbed
Thank you so much for the kind words and support :)
For the ultimate in underbody and chassis protection, treat the underneath of your truck in the same way that offshore drilling platforms get treated:
1. Pressure wash everything using a hot water/steam pressure washer with a good degreaser (make sure to also clean out the inside of the chassis rails as much as possible).
2. Once dry, remove all rust back to bare metal if possible.
3. Pressure wash again (don't worry, any flash rusting that occurs won't matter).
4. Apply a good rust converter to any areas where it isn't possible to get back to bare metal.
5. Once the rust converter has cured, apply 2 coats of zinc primer to everything (at least 90% zinc).
6. Once the final coat of zinc primer has dried, apply a coat of 2-part epoxy paint. If you really want to go to town, apply 2 coats (although this stuff is expensive).
7. Once the epoxy has cured, apply sprayable internal chassis wax (such as Dynax by Bilt Hamber) to the inside of all cavities.
8. Once the chassis wax has cured, go over the entire underbody with a sprayable water-soluble migratory corrosion inhibitor (e.g. Atom Mac).
9. Every couple of months, pressure wash the underneath and then re-apply the water soluble migratory corrosion inhibitor (this will only take you about an hour each time and the corrosion inhibitors go a long way so don't cost too much).
If you're prepared to take the time and spend the money on doing all of the above properly, any truck treated this way simply will not rust underneath significantly for decades.
In fact the only places it will rust at all will be where there's enough physical damage (e.g. from stone or rock impacts) to penetrate the epoxy topcoat and the zinc primer, which for most trucks is unlikely to happen in many places for a long time.
If you *really* want to make it apocalypse proof, after step 6 above you could then apply a dedicated anti-stonechip coating such as Gravitex.
Any vehicle treated as such will likely outlive your great grandchildren, at least where underbody corrosion is concerned.
1qq me
@@charliegarcia3267 Zinc primer and epoxy paint is what I use to protect my saltwater boat trailer and it works great. I've have 30 year old boat trailers that show no significant rust.
Golden information
Could you make a Video
I will be attempting this in a few months on my 84 Pontiac Parisienne, she’s got undercarriage surface rust everywhere. Thanks for the informative video! Hopefully this method will last many years to come because I love my old car and would hate to see it in a junkyard
No problem, happy I could help!
Sir, you must inform us how it went, please! How is the rust under the Parisienne?
i am so thankful that i live in the south.
i have 2 95 zj's both have very little rust. still thinking of cleaning up the undersides and giving them a nice coat of paint.
I won't lie, I'm jealous lol. We never had this much of a problem until they started dumping tons of salt on the roads. Have you seen the truck kit Smyth Performance is building for a zj?
If you have very little rust then best 'leave well alone'. All you need to do is jet wash the underneath and inspect for any signs of rust starting and treat these areas with some wax type anti-corrosion product. do this every year.
Jennie Hall You are thankful to live in a trailer park in the low wage south?
but we don't have snakes to deal with in the North. I was to NC once, the heat and humidity was terrible. But no rust is really good too. Pros and cons wherever you live.
In Florida, people drive down the beach in Daytona and ruin their vehicles.. same thing! Even driving around boat ramps causes rust, from the sea salt..
Great video. I wasn’t sure what product I would use because I hadn’t seen any great reviews for other similar type products. I’m glad you showed your truck a year later. Awesome!
Glad it was helpful and thank you for the feedback!
I just this morning was watching your other rust removal video! Thanks for posting!
Awesome to hear and thank you :) Hopefully this can be a good alternative depending on the vehicle and what products are available.
@@4DIYers Actually I'm working on a '97 E-39 540i I scooped up for peanuts, and I'm trying to stop the rust from progressing at the jacking points.
Manual? I really miss my E39. Been tempted to pick up another, but appeared to have increased in price since I sold mine. Just before I sold mine, I had the one jack point collapse.
This is one of the best video's ive seen. I like the Linseed oil, and WD40 Trick.
Thank you so much for the feedback! I do have some other videos on the same topic as well if you're seeking more info. For my Dodge, I bought the specialty gun to do a proper cavity wax spray. It's a more expensive route though.
@@4DIYers awesome! Thanks man!
Very informative step by step . Not jumping around getting off subject . Thank you
And No loud headbanging music blasting all the way through.
Why i rust proof and oil spray twice a year in ontario canada. 2014 GMC, clean as a whistle. Pretty much no surface rust underneith. Nice and clean
I used a spray bottle for the acid water mixture much easier, also used mineral oil as its much cheaper lasted the winter, less than 1,000 miles but it held up after multiple washes
I did my truck frame first I wire brushed it sanded it with 80,180, 320 then I degreased and painted with a rust stop primer than a rust preventative black paint
Thank you for sharing your experience!
what did you use?
GREAT video. One of the best on rust prevention. Would love to see you do the rest of the body.
Just started restoring a 2000 Wrangler TJ. Get the 20$ harbor freight needle scaler. It saves sooooo much time. I went with POR15 as the overcoat. Will try the stuff you used when I run out of converter. Good vid. Thanks.
Great tip, thank you!
@@4DIYers how are you shopping at princess auto and Harbour freight?
@@kjaxky I'm in Canada but only an hour away from the US border.
Excellent video - Tomorrow the plan is to wash the underside of my Crown Vic with Krud Kutter cleaner/degreaser then after the undercarriage dries (maybe 2 days) I am going to spray the undercarriage with Fluid Film - Mostly because I already bought the Fluid Film kit - I’ll read up on the Krud Kutter rust proofing product and maybe use that next year.
Thank you!
Here is my protection concoction. I treat the rusted areas with ospho first. Then in a gallon can. One new wax ring, one tube of chassis grease and one quart of old motor oil. Heat with hot plate then spray on with under coating gun. Works great and lasts a long time. Let over material I cover and store for touch ups.
I have a Nissan Armada and its not rusting too much, however it makes me wonder why is some sort of paint / protection not applied at the factory? Or is it and I just do not know.
Very detailed, explicit directions for all steps involved. Good video.
Soooo glad I live in the southwest...my 24 year old Chevy Tahoe is basically rust-free
Just so you know, I'm jealous of those salt free areas lol. It's tough finding clean vehicles here, I've seen stuff only 5 years old and badly rusted. Thankfully my Ram I recently purchased is fairly clean.
Same here. I'm in Texas with a 30-year old F150 with just hints of surface rust on the frame and some streaks on the body where the clear coat wasted away. When I see these rust crusted northern cars it makes me cringe. How do people spend 50K on a truck, just to have it crumble in 10 years?
RP-342 is excellent at protecting from rust. It's what the military uses
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
RP 342 amber or black is the absolute best solution I have found. Adding a coat fluid film every now and then adds an extra layer of protection but will wash off in a carwash under carriage flush unfortunately
@@dominofive5075 fluidfilm will eventually wash off, but I have taken my vehicles often thru a car wash that has an undercarriage wash and the fluidfilm hasn't came off in the past few months. Fluidfilm usually recommends reapplying every few months if you use an undercarriage wash alot.
You wanted input on rust prevention I can mention one. After years of trying rust converters oil sprays and the like I arrived at rp-342 cosmoline wax at the advice of a Canadian. That stuff is awesome. You can spray it directly on the rust. It gets absorbed. And after a second coat it's good for many years. Moisture salt locked out. It's self-healing. It gets a little tacky when it's warm out. Nice and hard in the winter so it doesn't attract sand and soot which is one of the main complaints I have about oil sprays here in New England. It's tough working on my vehicles when it's raining sand. Anyways you should look into this. You just scrape off the rust like you do and start spraying. Don't worry about the overspray it's harmless on bushings wire harnesses all that. Of course try to keep it out of the connectors but you can fix that with a little carb cleaner or WD-40 which will melt it off. You do good videos I'm curious if you would get some and try it. You won't be sorry
Thanks for the feedback! I'll have to check it out. Been looking into another wax rust inhibiting undercoating too, but I need to purchase a special application gun for it. I'm in Canada too, the salt being used on the road is ridiculous now and it's hard to keep older vehicles anymore if they're driven all year around. Don't forget to subscribe :)
@Dan Benner no it is not paintable. At a minimum, it is brown/amber.
I'm doing a 1971 C60 grain truck appreciate the video I'm dealing with rust I need all the information I can get thanks for the video
Nice work, sir -thanks for sharing & keep motorin'!
Thank you so much!
This works well to dry the area better than air compressor! Katsu 100140 Budget Electric Air Dust Blower 500W
I like the way the video was edited
Thank you!
Great video. And no annoying music!🇨🇦
Thank you!
Thanks for the inspiration and guidance!
I'm working on a 03 Mazda b3000.
Rangers like Tacoma's are great trucks if you take care of them.
Fluid film has a video on treating the inside of the frame and the doors with their canned product and an air gun fitted with a hose attachment to stick into drain holes
I treat all new parts with rustoleum paint and so far I like the results and get compliments. Get it before it rust.
I drill 2 half inch holes on each chassis rail at the lowest point, front and rear of the vehicle to allow water to drain out of the chassis rail box section. Then using a plumbers pipe bender, slightly bend the pipe on a pressure washer, insert in the holes I drilled and blast out the inside of the chassis rails, allow water to drain out and dry for a day or so.
Then take a flexible pipe of approx 3 feet, block one end with a plumbing fitment, a big screw also works, then drill dozens of holes in the pipe. Attach pipe to pressurised pump, garden weed pump works well. Fill pump with chassis protection oil like lanoguard or similar and pump into inside of chassis rails. 2 or 3 times is plenty of protection for a couple of years.
Yess, the rust treatment chemical is what I needed. My car has a lot of rust in the frame and unfortunately, I don't have enough time before winter to sand everything and do a perfect job.
Hi there 09 Pontiac vibe GT that I purchased from a New England couple I think they intentionally drove it over salty roads my goodness I’ve never seen so much rust thank you for the video
Salt (sodium chloride) is being replaced with Magnesium and Calcium chloride for deicing roads.
They're much more aggressive and hygroscopic meaning they'll continue to rust your car out on a hot day.
Avoiding rust in the first place is the best thing. You can avoid rust if you pressure wash the underside of your vehicle early in the spring and spray the underside with Lanolin or some sort of inhibitor before they salt the roads.
"for this video I am using a Toyota Tacoma" ah yes a perfect rust candidate lmao
🤣🤣🤣
"surface tension" "rust inhibiting" "disperse moisture" - NERD ALERT!
subscribed
I was just under my Tacoma today to check the frame, and realized how bad my axel is getting. I was more worried about it until I saw yours, and now I'm planning to lay in the dirt all day tomorrow.
Definitely worth getting at it before it gets worse. Keep an eye on your frame too and I would recommend oil spraying it. I have a few different vehicles for it, my newest version is the same method professionals use.
I always said that this kind of protection is better/faster than giving it to pro mechanics. I don't mean to say that we should avoid pro services in general , but in this case they would sand it and dismantle the whole structure, keep Your car for a week and ask 50x of the actual price You just paid for the stuff used, while the protection is still the same.... Besides, I'm not so convinced about sandblasting undercarriage like they tend to do everywhere and ripping all the factory protection at the same time. None of the bridges nor ships I've seen were sandblasted, they're only treated with proper paints....and they stay for ages! Good job!
Krud kutter is BOSS!
can also do this with pure phosphoric acid at $15 a gallon, and i found it easier to use a chemical sprayer.
Hi. What kind of chemical sprayer would be good to do my vehicle, with this boiled linseed oil and WD40 mix?
This is a good method whilst using quite of bit of elbow grease.
Thank you! Definitely worth the hard work, peace of mind knowing the frame has some protection.
Pretty good result..
Thank you!
I have used waste vegetable oil (from restaurants fryers) mixed with new motor oil as it is know to polymarized and create problems when we use them as fuels. You mix the two and add some solvent to thine them out...then drive down the dirt road for dust to stick to it and let dry for a day. Not sure how it compares to other methods but it has the benefit of using it when you don't have the time to remove all the rust perfectly like some other processes. I can't compare to other products but I thought it worked pretty well. It would be interesting to see a comparison to other products. I did roughly 25% veggy oil 25% motor oil 50% thinner......but could be mixed thinner and thicker for different areas.
How about a drain auger attached to metal bolts/nuts and whip the inside of frame to remove flakey rust. Then couldnt you use an extension wand with 360 spray and use the Krud Rust inside the frame? Followed by paint same method.
Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
looks like you made a good job of that
Thank you! Still holding up great, well worth the hard work.
i just bought a $30 sandblaster and $14 for a 50lb bag of bead glass shot of zinc primer and a few coats of rust coat followed by rubber coat the next day best way for me and pretty cheap
Yes, I was thinking this the whole time. I would take everything out - leafs too - and blast it.
The hammering is the best way agreed-- has to be done. Brake lines-- replace always needed. But you will get it cleaner with an acid or base and then neutralize it. High pressure fluid clean useful. Penetrating oil, then an oil based anti rust paint.
Very interesting. Good work.
Since you have an air compressor why didn’t you sand blast (at least the recessed parts)?
How about using rust converting products ?
Thank you! My air compressor isn’t big enough for a sandblaster so it would take far longer. Not to mention sandblasting can create an even bigger mess. There are some good Russ converting products out there, however it’s best to knock down most of the rust as its most effective.
Thanks for the walk through, What paint did you use? I see you're also in Canada based on the princess auto bags.
You’re welcome! Yep, I’m in Canada. I used an implement paint from a John Deere farm equipment supplier.
Nice, helpful video! Thank you for not forcing a concert on me. I'm just hear to learn, not be entertained.
You’re very welcome and thank you for the kind words!
I use old motor oil in a gallon can mixed with 5 or more canisters of bearing grease til it's a thick oily paste and literally brush it on with a stiff brush and coat everything after knocking off the loose rust. Lasts 10 times longer than ziebart undercoating which lasts 3 months if that for $150. My 83 Regal was like new when I sold it, just did my Hummer after being lazy for 5 yrs, looks oily and black 5 months later and only costs about $30 or 40 and the old oil is free, didn't even bother cleaning the rust off just coated the hell out of everything and the loose stuff fell off with the brush after penetrating it with the oil.
Being from Grapevine Texas I haven't seen much rust .I have a 99 Yukon with some rust from the Texas coast.The roof has surface rust that comes first a small rust through on passengers rear fender.Mainly keeping it in running condition is a handful on a 21 year old Yukon 258,000 miles had it about a year I am almost 60 myself and I now know what they mean by "fixed income".I must say it's been way more reliable than I thought.Runs good shifts good just through videos I have learned before painting the surface needs treatment for rust .Used to paint 727s but aluminum is not bad on rust
Some of those older vehicles are well built, especially compared to the new stuff now. Seems like those new vehicles have far too many problems and don't last anywhere near as long. I have a load of different videos for paint/rust repair that you can do at home yourself, along with a load of other budget friendly topics. Being in Canada, our vehicle can start forming body rust at only 5yrs old.
Flight atendent voice big time could picture him pointing out things
Great video thanks from London England 👍💪😎🏴🙏
Electric Porter Cable Grinder and 4 ½ x ⅝ Black Hawk strip discs work wonders as well. As for sprays, I use CRC Penetrate in a can. It seals out moisture after stripping, especially outside in the elements. The paint I'm using is Tamco's Monocoat Paint.
Excellent tips, thank you for sharing!
@@4DIYers Anytime 😎
agreed penetrating oil is essential.
Looks like you're in Canada going by the Princess auto bag... where did you get the farm paint in black? This was awesome and very detailed and well explained. Thanks and subbed!
Wow this guy can squat for a long time
Lol, no need for a gym membership!
50/50 linseed oil and fish oil. Thin as needed. Works great.
I TRIED that and had hundreds of CAT'S following me AROUND everywhere
Keith Myers who doesn’t want to drive a pussy magnet? 😜
TheLostKoz aaa very niiiice I like
@@keithmyers1454 😆 😅 😂 🤣
@@keithmyers1454 LOL
Thinking about buying a landcruiser that has quite a bit of scaling underneath. No holes or crazy rust. As long as there are no holes and things of that nature it can be cleaned and still have it's full integrity ? Or stay away? Thanks!
Thank you for making this
No problem!
Instead of the paint sprayer can we use something that comes in a aerosol can from Walmart that gives similar results? Please help!
wow that rust is real bad, nice work, if my car is rusted out like that, ill giv u a call
Thank you!
I am confused, the instruction for the rust remover says to wipe or rinse before painting.
Would have been better to drop the rear axle, roll it out, degrease it, sand blast it, rinse, apply metal etch, rinse again, then after surface rust covers it completely apply chassis saver. Top coat with any rattle can color for UV protection and enjoy a one and done coating that is impervious to everything.
Tysm! Know my next weekend project lol
You're very welcome!
Fluid film has a kit to get inside frame rails and such and you can use Fluid film instead of the linseed WD-40 mixture if you like
Excellent tip, thank you!
All in one ☝️ THANKS!
You're welcome!
I'm curious if Vinegar would be of help before sanding or using the wire wheel.
Highly appreciate the vid and idea! Thanks so much! A quick question, what kind of spray gun did you use to spray the rust-inhibiting mixture of linseed oil and WD40? What is the ratio for linseed oil vs. WD40? Thanks again!
It is mentioned to avoid rubberized coating for this case only, due to the fact you had previously rinsed everything with water, or generally for all vehicle undercarriage cases? I wonder because there are numerous branded rubberizing products which claim that protect metal surfaces from moisture, corrosion and abrasion. Moreover, on many car underbodies there is something as gum-like or tar-like coating straight from the factory which is durable enough (at least for non heavy snowfall areas). Thank you for both consistent work and video editing.
The rubberized coating from factory is applied to treated metals in a controlled environment, while it does take longer to fail, it can still cause serious problems. The rubberized coating is almost like a plastic bag over metal. It'll get a pinhole from road debris, eventually separate from the metal, but not break off like a paint so it traps the moisture. I haven't seen a tar like coating from factory. Factory coatings will be a rubberized or no drop wax coating. Toyota has an extended warranty program for the frames and they applied a tar like coating that claims it prevents rust. But that wasn't the case, I cleaned the coating off only to find rust in behind. The only thing it really does is hide rust, once that coating falls off, it's too late and there will most likely be a hole. If you check out my new video, I just did a wax/oil spray coating on my truck for winter. I live in Canada so we can have tough winters and unfortunately they salt the roads heavily too. By far the biggest issue is salt though, I've seen vehicles only 5 years old and already rusty. No problem, always happy to help!
@@4DIYers I understand that living in Canada, with salted roads and severe cold propagating environmental stress cracking of any coating, the pitting corrosion from sodium chloride is an ordinary thing all over the underbody metals, and probably factory protective layers won't prosper with all that salt spray trapped on so many points. Lastly, since you prefer oil spray coating you should consider using organic solvent based penetrating asphalt waterproofing varnish (tar-like), which once it dries (flammable during application_also applied with brush or roller) it can withstand acids solutions, bases and seawater or brine. It is used on offshore platform machinery and buildings on concrete or metallic surfaces. That's all I have for now.. hoping to visit Canada someday!
It depends on the vehicle too. Some vehicles tend to last longer and it comes down to build quality too. I know quite a few people who work in the auto body industry and they'll even admit vehicles rust out much quicker than compared to years ago. However, if you take something like a BMW, they seem to use better quality steel and it appears to be treated better too. My dad is a licensed mechanic and used to work as one years ago. There was a rustproofing company that applied a tar like coating. It was found and if I remember correctly they did have a lawsuit against them, the coatings trapped moisture and rotted out the metal. In one case, someone was killed and the passenger was permanently injured as the car split in half from the accident due to rust. I'm not disagreeing that asphalt is an effective waterproofing, however, the biggest problem is that it causes the "plastic bag" effect. Oils or waxes don't trap pockets of water, some will repel/disperse water, and they're able to creep into seams or onto other surfaces. Industrial equipment which is shipped overseas even has a wax type spray applied. If you have a brand new vehicle, I'd recommend using a wax type spray as the underbody is clean and should be 99% free of corrosion. Used vehicles, an oil spray would be a better choice. I found an oil and wax hybrid mix available from a local supplier, so that was my choice after cleaning up my frame.
So on my new 4runner, skip to the linseed oil and wd40 mix and use that as an undercoating?
Has anyone considered a cheap sand blaster from Harbor freight? I believe it would be easier.
I usually paint suspension and differantials and even car frame with black hamerite paint. Its an anti rust and paint in one
My rear differential cover is pitted fairly bad.I never had 4WD before the Yukon scary to see all the rubber cracked underneath.
Westwood makes a rust inhibiter in a spray can for the inner frame DOG
Eastwood
Could you provide a 4 year update on how this has held up?
I can do a quick short on this, can probably have it released in April sometime.
Would be great thank you. Looking to get my frame and suspension components done this summer.
Bottom Line Up Front- it’s held up well or no?
Well done 🎉
Thank you, much appreciated!
i have a 2010 Infiniti FX35 in NYC with alot of rust and corrosion in my undercarriage. One would assume its water damage but its all the snow, rain and salt.
Awesome video. Questions what small HVLP gun did you use and how big is your compressor. Spraying is way easier then brushing. Any updated on the undercarriage?
Human papiloma virus?
Ditto question on the HPLV sprayer, I heard "ultra sprayer" but haven't gone back through the transcript to confirm.
great video, this is exactly what i want to do to my ford expedition
Thank you! I also just recently released another video for applying a wax/oil spray coating instead of linseed oil. So you maybe interested in that as well.
This is a great product krud kutter or how ever you spell it the rustoleum prod is awesom spray on and it will take rust right off