Tools and supplies I used in this video: Stripping Discs: amzn.to/3NIGjd8 60 Grit Sanding Discs: amzn.to/3u7byqE Red Scotch Brite: amzn.to/37egq46 Gloves: amzn.to/3NKYvD0 Mask: amzn.to/3K7YcQw 4.5 inch Grinder (Cheap 7amp): amzn.to/3Lwup4e Pneumatic Die Grinder: amzn.to/3u7ctaA Phosphoric Acids: Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3LK1D09 Ospho: amzn.to/3x7zZWG Rustoleum Gel: amzn.to/3DM1Ay8 Mastercoat Metal Prep (What I used because I'm using their paint): nomorerust.com/store/metal-pr... My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Can I use Cooroseal to convert my existing undercarriage rust over to fresh looking black and then top coat with a lanolin based product to preserve the fresh black look of the Cooroseal and have success with regards to it holding up over time???
As a master machinsit i dont do thsi way,, and rust will never appear again,, made in my jeep, adn after 20 years still there as new,, had to paint everyyear,, but no more...
Man, I saw the video and it was amazing. You just have saved me so much of research and testing, I am so grateful for the video and that you shared it. You did an unbelievable thing by sharing the video and others. I have seen quite a few of them. Thanks so much again!
You can make your own rust converter in bulk, cheap. Phosphoric acid of course, make your solution 20-25% and then add 0.1-0.3% carbomer 940 to thicken it up. Works like a dream, super cheap too.
I can’t thank you enough! I have some mild rust on a 2017 Promaster. I live and bought it in OC Cali. But it spent some time I’m WA. Nobody here would even look at it much less treat it. I finally found one auto body shop that looked at it and said rust is a cancer and there’s nothing I can do except sell the van to get rid of it! After watching your content I feel like there are absolutely solutions to this! I’ve purchased surface shield along with a wire brush etc… and I’m so excited to get this van protected. Seriously, THANK YOU 🙏🏼
I'm in the process of doing precisely what you're doing in this video on my 30 year old Talon, removing basically everything rear of the t-case, including the entire exhaust pipe, heat shield and drive shaft. In fact yesterday I finally (I hope!) ground out just about all the remaining rust on the underbody panels, mainly using a die grinder for most surfaces and a rotary tool to get at all those hard to reach corners and crevices that even a die grinder can't get to. I also removed all the brackets that hold fuel and brake lines and wiring harnesses, to derust and treat as well, and will even clean up and treat all fasteners (other than ones I'm replacing per the FSM). This is a one in a lifetime job for me on this car and I want to do it right. Then I washed everything with Super Clean (which I've found is more effective for me than Simple Green or Purple Power). And just as you did I also came across the same "phantom rust" situation you had, where seemingly good paint had rust underneath it. In fact I'm going to double-check everything now to make sure I didn't miss any, so thanks for pointing this out. I'm not going to get fancy with the prep and paint, in terms of esthetics, as this is the underbody and most of it will get covered. I went over everything I derusted with a surface conditioning disc on the die grinder and then some sanding drums and wood grinding bits on the rotary tool (I find that wood grinding bits are effective in removing rust but not good metal), so it's mechanically prepped. Then I washed everything again with Super Clean, rinsed it all down, and let it dry. That was yesterday. Today I hope to apply Metal Prep to the treated areas, which has phosphoric plus zinc. When that's dry, I'll apply either primer and paint, or just paint. Still not sure what I'll use. I prefer that the color more or less matches the original paint, so it doesn't have that first time DIY look, but I doubt that I'll get it perfect. Anyone know which color matches that electroplating? Mine has the exact same color as yours. One bit of advice though. It's great that you have a lift, but I think that working on a car underbody that's over your head is less than optimal, for the reasons you gave. I don't have a lift so the rear has been on jack stands, and I've been working under it on my back on a creeper. I actually found this to be really easy on my neck and back, with the only issue being that I had to be careful to not be directly under whatever I was working on so the dust and particles didn't get into my eyes, which happens even with safety goggles. So next time you do this you might want to lower the lift to where the underbody is around a foot or two above you when lying on your back on a creeper, whatever height works best for you. Oh, and the rotary tool was indispensable for those hard to reach spots. Great video!
That's what I'm doing with my 1981 Chevy Van G10. I have it all stripped and on jack stands. I'm on my back with a creeper and it's better for my neck.
Mastercoat products are awesome I used there metal prep, master series silver then ag111 in my broncos cowl area. After wire wheeling it with a die grinder.
I too live near Akron, Oh, I also have the same lift as you. But my neck has been fused and I have tendonitis in my shoulders. My work around was to buy a new high back desk chair and take my old one out to the shop. Then you can lower the car and recline the chair and work while seated with neck support. Bonus, you can roll around just don't roll your head into the lift arms more than once or twice.
REALLY impressed with your lanolin research and presentations. Undercoating my '06 Town Car this afternoon in Northeast Ohio. As luck would have it, my fuel tank straps gave out after filling up last night. Bare Spectra Premium ST211 Fuel Tank Straps are due today. I started this video to determine if it would be better to paint them, then apply lanolin, or skip the paint? I'm now leaning toward skipping the paint. I had a couple questions: Does Surface Shield creep as well as Fluid Film? If the lanolin never sees water spray, or get washed away, does it still stop rest (seal the surface) beyond one or two years? It's refreshing to see an intelligent young person with a solid work ethic, not afraid to get their hands dirty. You are a rare breed these days!
As far as those straps go, you can paint them but eventually you will have to touch up the paint. You can put lanolin on them but eventually you will have to touch up the lanolin. Both methods need maintaining. So as far as creeping goes, I have preliminary data. Nothing that I'm willing to go on record as saying. Both products will creep fairly well. I highly doubt the difference in creeping ability between them would have any tangible affect on how they prevent rust. After 10 years of religious FF or SS use I doubt you'd notice a difference. I'm probably going to do some standardized testing on this topic because there are a lot of claims from companies about creeping but no claims about the product that has crept offering any sort of rust protection. There's lots companies out there saying "Look at this! Look how far this has crept!" Nobody has actually tested to see if that offers any protection. I would be doing 80% of what you see on this channel if the camera wasn't on. I really just started the channel to document what I was doing out in my shop. I never really expected it to go anywhere haha.
I have a 1996 Daihatsu Hijet JDM mini truck on its way from Japan. It has some spots with mild surface rust and I'm going to paint it inside and out with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. This info was very useful. Thank you.
I'd get a full face mask if I was doing that much grinding looking up....those safety glasses still let dust in. All it takes is just one metalcdust speck to ruin your eyes. 😮
Amen to that. I used a set of glasses like those. Rust and wind and my eye. Was led into the ER by the ex wife and I found out how little she actually cared when she led into a doorframe at a full walk.. Protect your eyes folks..
Good Video, rust removal is always tough to tackle. However, in the case that you have, where you don't have heavy Rust and scale, a faster and more thorough approach would be to use paint stripper, even a dremmel tool can't reach where paint stripper can. it may take two or three applications of the stripper, (use power washer to remove each application) but it will still be far faster than grinding and wire wheels and far more thorough. In fact, it is so thorough that afterwards you should use a phosphoric acid product that can be sprayed on, such as Ospho, or the liquid version of Rustoleum rust dissolver, so you can actually reach all the surface rust you exposed.
Thank you for the full walk-through including the fact it's never perfect on a real car. Coupled with your product testing on rust treatments, I feel I can confidently choose a treatment for my vehicle. I think that will be a strip, treat and paint for the frame exterior. While lanolin coatings may be effective they also make other leaks hard to spot when the entire undercarriage is constantly oily. I'll likely just coat the interior of the frame rails in lanolin.
This was helpful, as your rust chemical videos have been. I've been trying to decide on what products to use on my project, and this settled it for me. I'm doing some inner frame as well, and I don't trust any inner frame coatings to actually deal with the rust because why would the rust not just continue to eat the metal from under the paint? I don't buy it. I was going to do rust kutter but having products that play well together is a win for me. Thanks.
rinsing the acid wash with a baking soda/water solution is a good idea for a more long lasting job, also rust is a moisture sponge, if you can apply the paint when the air humidity is very low and warm, there is less chance of trapping moisture in the rust.
Nice video!. I have had fantastic results painting over tight rust with this stuff: Rust-Oleum Industrial High Performance V2100 System Rust Reformer, Aerosol Can Haven’t found anything better
Wow I didn't know about this line of products. I've been using the Rustoleum Professional High Performance in spray cans, it has a similar silvery package label to the one you listed. Do you know how they compare to each other? What are the differences?
@@JPearlLapis I’m not sure, I haven’t used the one you mentioned. I have used the cold zinc coating before from the same line of products on boat lifts and have had good results as well
This looks like one of those projects you get involved with and then realize holy s*** what did I get myself into. Personally I would definitely prefer the oil method over this any day of the week. I'm sure you would too 😅😅
Absolutely. I've been doing the same thing, and what I'd hoped was a one week job tops to remove the entire rear end, clean things up, derust, paint, and replace all the bushings, BJs & link connectors, has turned into a month-long and counting undertaking. There was just SO much rust, none structurally concerning, everything's still rock-solid, but enough to keep me busy just with that for weeks. I mean if you're going to do it, do it right, so the rust doesn't come back again. But not something I ever want to do again. I'd sooner rebuild a trans.
Yo buddy thanks alot.. im in the middle of a modern restoration, daily driver.. major new panel weld ins to resolve rust. Now underneath found some more rust. I decided just now do what i can reach the surfave shield the rest.. is what it is..
Great content ! I'm going to be doing a full restoration on my Fox body 🦊 from the ground up but I will be repairing the floor pan and frame rails . I'm also going to use a rust converter on all the exposed metal fabrication . Thank You for the video .🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
For a job like this, you could use a turbo nozzle on your pressure washer. The constantly varying angle of the turbo nozzle combined with the jet it outputs will break up and blast away all lifted paint and a fair bit of scale very quickly. All those bumps you felt on the E-coat would have been blasted away by a turbo nozzle. In shipyards, they pressure wash, then needle scale, and finish with sand blasting & hand sanding for their removal steps. And they get to deal with rust, barnacles, and who knows whatever other calcifying creatures that set up shop on a hull.
Lanolin will not stop rust. Only slow it. Cleab the frame, give it rust proof coatings of paint or bedliner or both, and then the ADDITION of lanolin coatings every year is what will protect the frame for the longest time. If it's a toyota, then the frame might outlast the engine.
Nothing beats rust/corrosion completely. Yearly applied lanolin will slow the progression of rust so much that it's no longer relevant for as long as you're willing to maintain the coating.
Wire brush. 80 grit sand paper. Prep is key. Getting to the "good" metal thats solid. That can be saved. But rott holes are doneso. Im planning on using this on my control arms and rear subframe. I can still jack the car up on the frame so its hopefully will save this subframe from its coming fate. I do also have like major rocker panels rusted out. Im gonna have to take of the side skirts and see what i can cut out and possibly use carbonfiber to fill in those holes. I just want the frame to be saved. Could car less about the rockers but if its not treated it will keeping eating its self out. I got the rust cutter but you just said to use the gel stuff. Smh the gel stuff is soo much cheaper. ...
How did you decide on the paints you are using? Could you elaborate a bit on what else you were considering and how you narrowed it down to the mastercoat primer and raptor liner topcoat? Might be a good topic for another vid if you haven't already done it, I'd certainly watch it.
Great video and explanation. You do a fantastic job. So would you recommend spraying Ospho or cavity coating inside the frame rails before or after pressure washing? Or pressure wash and then blow out the inside of the frame rails with high pressure air and then coat the inside a couple days later after it dries?
A-ha, It is a Mustang , just like I thought in part 2. I seen that first and now i watched part one. Cool. I have one too but mine is a fox chassis Stang . 1988 . cool vidoes and thanks for all the info. I think the bottom of mine looks about the same as yours.
About what I've done with my 1964 Valiant and 1965 Dart - mechanical rust removal followed by chemical treatment. I bought phosphoric acid in gallon at Home Depot (Concrete Etch & Metal Prep). I've since used Evapo-Rust, especially for parts I can drop in a jar. I also hate sand-blasting on the car. Where I've done that, like under the dash, I have sand coming out for years. Sand-blasting is good for isolated parts outdoors with intricate shapes like seat frames w/ springs, especially where you need the sand on the ground anyway, like say to fill a dry-laid brick walk. I've wrapped rusty exhaust manifolds in rags soak in phosphoric acid then plastic sheet and left for 2 weeks in summer. So much rust comes out as black phosphate that it bonds the rags which have to be ripped and brushed off, but the manifold winds up almost shiny and de-rusted enough to paint (special manifold paint, cured in oven).
Very good video and excellent insight, thanks for the heads-up. I think I will use that Blaster Lanolin spray instead. It would have been nice if the auto manufacturers spent the extra $50 to properly undercoat the vehicles before they were assembled, would have been a whole lot less work then...
Great video(s)! I’m looking at doing the same thing to my one ton truck. You should take the cleaning portion of this video and make a separate video of it so it’s easy to find. That was my question I was going to ask while watching the video and then the cleaning part came on! ☺️
Using a paint stripper would help out - MUCH less grinding to do. Although commercial products might be pricey, I'd mix my own 5-10% concentration of lye (NaOH) and corn/potato starch to make it into a gel, then apply with a brush or an undercoating sprayer. The only way you could get better results in paint stripping is just straight boiling parts in lye. And don't use it on aluminum. Just be extra careful with the stuff getting in your eyes and on your skin, full suit, long thick rubber gloves and a face shield are mandatory. Respirator is only needed if you boil the thing. Then you can get it off with a pressure washer, maybe repeat the process a couple times for areas of remaining paint, wash off again. It may take a bit more time, but it's sure much easier on your body. Then you can do the regular stuff - grind/blast rust spots, treat with phosphoric acid, etc.
So you suggest that for most of us trying to stave off rust under our daily driver that we should just use a lanoline of fluid film product and this sounds appealing to me. My question though is any prep needed before spraying the under carriage with a fluid film coating? Do you have a recommendation for the best fluid film for this application?
Great videos!! After using Mastercoat permanent rust sealer how long did you wait to use Raptor Liner? If you wait a week or so do you have to sand/rough up Matercoat prior to using Raptor Liner?
If you’re cleaning off grease, MINERAL SPIRITS are WAY better. I tested cleaning grease off concrete with mineral spirits, ,acetone,diesel, Sonax wheel acid, degreasers….paint thinner worked the same as mineral spirits but is more intense to handle.
The fluid film would look good and be a good option if it was black. I'm going through debating this now on a 2008 h2 I just bought body is perfect and interior is perfect but lots of rust underneath. I'm planning on using it for audio competition so I want it looking great.
Hi man, I got some rust and some rust pitting on my rear inside wheel Wells. I've sanded as much as possible but rust still visible. I've also rust treated it with korust. And added crown t40 rust proofer on top. But I wamt to make it look better can I use eastwood rust encapulator topped with raptor liner then once dry top it with krown t40 again? I'm in the UK so hard to get a hold of other products. It's also daily driven. Thank you in advance
Another good question or at least a question I have, is the cost of each. What would be the difference. I'm talking about product costs only, not labor.
i think you also have two options that you can first dip whole chassis into some electrolysis rust removal process which the electron removing the oxygen to anode , or you can use laser rust removal . but both not very suitable for DIY
Brilliant tutorial. After sanding the rust away you applied phosphoric acid. Shall this be whiped of after drying or just paint it over? Is this acid ki d of rust converter? For example if rust pits occur, does this acid convert the rust and putty or paint can stick well?
The instructions for the Mastercoat say to smooth out any scaling and then apply. Is it really necessary to use the phosphoric acid? I'm getting ready to de-rust my truck frame, thanks for posting this video! I had never heard of Mastercoat before.
I'm in the process of doing this to my trailer. I got it sand blasted for $250, then applied 2 coats of epoxy primer and scuffed with red Scotchbrite. Now I'm going to apply 2 coats of Raptor liner reduced 15% with an HVLP gun. Then assemble everything, then use the Shutz gun on the top to give the top a textured surface. There was a lot of surface rust under the factory paint, I think they just spray over the surface rust at the factory.
I told you before the very best paint is Rust-lock by Pettit it's a marine based paint. If an undercarriage is powerwashed with water and dried that paint will stick to rust and inhibit the rust out. It's made to be submerged in water. I know for a fact that it's the best paint out there. We painted my dads bumper and plow frame brackets 1 time and the metal never rusted after that. You will not listen...
The last time you commented about that stuff you said you were painting that bumper once a year... Also, how many municipalities are willing to paint bridges with it? Will it withstand 90 days submerged in acetone? I'm pretty sure that any paint that will do 20 years on a salted bridge will hold up well on my car that sees summer rain 5x a year lol. You've used a paint and got good results. That automatically makes everyone else wrong?
@@RepairGeek I really appreciate you calling out the inconsistencies with Robbie's recounting of results. I often look at new products based on reading from other people's experiences and if they aren't accurately retelling their results it gives a misleading picture of how the products actually perform...
@@JPearlLapis you would not believe the number of people that tell me their product is "best". No data to back it up, just a story. I could probably make a video about it 😂
Ideally yes. I would have sand blasted it. I doubt I would have saved any time because my blaster is small. My environment was my main limiting factor for sandblasting Sandblast, treat with acid, primer, and paint.
Did you remove all seam sealer before painting or only spots you felt necessary? I’m planning on doing this to a 99 civic and wanted to get your opinion. Thanks
If you hadn't done anything to fix the rust, how long do you think it would take to become more than just a cosmetic issue, assuming the car was not driven again in the winter?
so @ 18:38 all that black rust and pitting is ok before all the coats? I just tried my first amateur job on a small circle to start and after sanding for awhile I had just a bunch of this blackness. Didn't know if it should be gone and pure silver or ok to move on with rust inhibitor ,primer filler primer paint
You got to totally remove the rust before applying oil? Orjust the loose rust? I removed the loose rust and flaking paint but there are still some pits and surface rust in places. Worth touching up those places with paint and then oil or just skip the paint and just do oil?
If I were restoring a car that will be a daily driver and I wanted to do this, let the paint cure, and follow up with an oil based undercoating, would this be a good idea?
Questions, what about chemical rust reformer? Then prime and paint. And what about painting then lanolin? Could you get away with less labor on the paint job if you put lanolin on after the paint is set?
The rust reformers I've tested were less than ideal. Check my videos for the comparison test. If you're going to spray lanolin just spray the black version. You get the same effect as a coat of black paint with out the prep work of the BS of paint. Just recoat it once a year.
Hi man, I got some rust and some rust pitting on my rear inside wheel Wells. I've sanded as much as possible but rust still visible. I've also rust treated it korust. And added crown t40 rust proofer on top. But I wamt to make it look better can I use eastwood rust encapulator topped with raptor liner then once dry top it with krown t40 again? I'm in the UK so hard to get a hold of other products. It's also daily driven. Thank you in advance
What I'm going to use will last much longer than oxide primer. Use what works for you, if that's oxide primer, go for it. I don't want to do all this again lol.
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Tools and supplies I used in this video:
Stripping Discs: amzn.to/3NIGjd8
60 Grit Sanding Discs: amzn.to/3u7byqE
Red Scotch Brite: amzn.to/37egq46
Gloves: amzn.to/3NKYvD0
Mask: amzn.to/3K7YcQw
4.5 inch Grinder (Cheap 7amp): amzn.to/3Lwup4e
Pneumatic Die Grinder: amzn.to/3u7ctaA
Phosphoric Acids:
Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3LK1D09
Ospho: amzn.to/3x7zZWG
Rustoleum Gel: amzn.to/3DM1Ay8
Mastercoat Metal Prep (What I used because I'm using their paint): nomorerust.com/store/metal-pr...
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Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
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Can I use Cooroseal to convert my existing undercarriage rust over to fresh looking black and then top coat with a lanolin based product to preserve the fresh black look of the Cooroseal and have success with regards to it holding up over time???
I love that within the first 5 minutes you answered the question of fluid film vs paint.
Awesome video as always.
As a master machinsit i dont do thsi way,, and rust will never appear again,, made in my jeep, adn after 20 years still there as new,, had to paint everyyear,, but no more...
@@luisbetebcourtwhat!?
Man, I saw the video and it was amazing. You just have saved me so much of research and testing, I am so grateful for the video and that you shared it. You did an unbelievable thing by sharing the video and others. I have seen quite a few of them. Thanks so much again!
You know what sir, I don't believe that u can actually paint a frame. To prove me wrong I need u to come help me do mines 😄
this channel is undervalued
I think so too but I'm only slightly biased 😂😂😂
@@RepairGeek Mastercoat system for the win, baby!
Amazing! My compliments to your patience ... And neck!
Finally, someone who knows what they are talking about, through highly thought out procedures that work! EXCELLENT VIDEO! SUBSCRIBED!! AAAAA++++++++++
Have you used Evaporust. It removes the rust rather than converting it. It is biodegradable and low toxicity. I’ve had a lot of success with it.
You can make your own rust converter in bulk, cheap. Phosphoric acid of course, make your solution 20-25% and then add 0.1-0.3% carbomer 940 to thicken it up. Works like a dream, super cheap too.
I can’t thank you enough! I have some mild rust on a 2017 Promaster. I live and bought it in OC Cali. But it spent some time I’m WA. Nobody here would even look at it much less treat it. I finally found one auto body shop that looked at it and said rust is a cancer and there’s nothing I can do except sell the van to get rid of it! After watching your content I feel like there are absolutely solutions to this! I’ve purchased surface shield along with a wire brush etc… and I’m so excited to get this van protected. Seriously, THANK YOU 🙏🏼
I'm in the process of doing precisely what you're doing in this video on my 30 year old Talon, removing basically everything rear of the t-case, including the entire exhaust pipe, heat shield and drive shaft. In fact yesterday I finally (I hope!) ground out just about all the remaining rust on the underbody panels, mainly using a die grinder for most surfaces and a rotary tool to get at all those hard to reach corners and crevices that even a die grinder can't get to.
I also removed all the brackets that hold fuel and brake lines and wiring harnesses, to derust and treat as well, and will even clean up and treat all fasteners (other than ones I'm replacing per the FSM). This is a one in a lifetime job for me on this car and I want to do it right. Then I washed everything with Super Clean (which I've found is more effective for me than Simple Green or Purple Power).
And just as you did I also came across the same "phantom rust" situation you had, where seemingly good paint had rust underneath it. In fact I'm going to double-check everything now to make sure I didn't miss any, so thanks for pointing this out.
I'm not going to get fancy with the prep and paint, in terms of esthetics, as this is the underbody and most of it will get covered. I went over everything I derusted with a surface conditioning disc on the die grinder and then some sanding drums and wood grinding bits on the rotary tool (I find that wood grinding bits are effective in removing rust but not good metal), so it's mechanically prepped.
Then I washed everything again with Super Clean, rinsed it all down, and let it dry. That was yesterday. Today I hope to apply Metal Prep to the treated areas, which has phosphoric plus zinc. When that's dry, I'll apply either primer and paint, or just paint. Still not sure what I'll use. I prefer that the color more or less matches the original paint, so it doesn't have that first time DIY look, but I doubt that I'll get it perfect. Anyone know which color matches that electroplating? Mine has the exact same color as yours.
One bit of advice though. It's great that you have a lift, but I think that working on a car underbody that's over your head is less than optimal, for the reasons you gave. I don't have a lift so the rear has been on jack stands, and I've been working under it on my back on a creeper. I actually found this to be really easy on my neck and back, with the only issue being that I had to be careful to not be directly under whatever I was working on so the dust and particles didn't get into my eyes, which happens even with safety goggles. So next time you do this you might want to lower the lift to where the underbody is around a foot or two above you when lying on your back on a creeper, whatever height works best for you. Oh, and the rotary tool was indispensable for those hard to reach spots.
Great video!
That's what I'm doing with my 1981 Chevy Van G10. I have it all stripped and on jack stands. I'm on my back with a creeper and it's better for my neck.
Thanks mate, I only needed to watch the first 3 minutes. Lanolin it is :)
Mastercoat products are awesome I used there metal prep, master series silver then ag111 in my broncos cowl area. After wire wheeling it with a die grinder.
I’m really happy I found this channel.. you are the Rust Master..
I too live near Akron, Oh, I also have the same lift as you. But my neck has been fused and I have tendonitis in my shoulders. My work around was to buy a new high back desk chair and take my old one out to the shop. Then you can lower the car and recline the chair and work while seated with neck support. Bonus, you can roll around just don't roll your head into the lift arms more than once or twice.
Repair geek makes a video, I watch it. It's that simple 👍🏼
REALLY impressed with your lanolin research and presentations. Undercoating my '06 Town Car this afternoon in Northeast Ohio. As luck would have it, my fuel tank straps gave out after filling up last night. Bare Spectra Premium ST211 Fuel Tank Straps are due today. I started this video to determine if it would be better to paint them, then apply lanolin, or skip the paint? I'm now leaning toward skipping the paint.
I had a couple questions: Does Surface Shield creep as well as Fluid Film? If the lanolin never sees water spray, or get washed away, does it still stop rest (seal the surface) beyond one or two years?
It's refreshing to see an intelligent young person with a solid work ethic, not afraid to get their hands dirty. You are a rare breed these days!
As far as those straps go, you can paint them but eventually you will have to touch up the paint. You can put lanolin on them but eventually you will have to touch up the lanolin. Both methods need maintaining.
So as far as creeping goes, I have preliminary data. Nothing that I'm willing to go on record as saying. Both products will creep fairly well. I highly doubt the difference in creeping ability between them would have any tangible affect on how they prevent rust. After 10 years of religious FF or SS use I doubt you'd notice a difference. I'm probably going to do some standardized testing on this topic because there are a lot of claims from companies about creeping but no claims about the product that has crept offering any sort of rust protection. There's lots companies out there saying "Look at this! Look how far this has crept!" Nobody has actually tested to see if that offers any protection.
I would be doing 80% of what you see on this channel if the camera wasn't on. I really just started the channel to document what I was doing out in my shop. I never really expected it to go anywhere haha.
Oh wow that's funny, I am researching the topic because i have that EXACT car i want to do this on.... same color too. Thanks for the tips!
Your videos are excellent. Thourough job.
I have a 1996 Daihatsu Hijet JDM mini truck on its way from Japan. It has some spots with mild surface rust and I'm going to paint it inside and out with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. This info was very useful. Thank you.
I'd get a full face mask if I was doing that much grinding looking up....those safety glasses still let dust in. All it takes is just one metalcdust speck to ruin your eyes. 😮
Amen to that. I used a set of glasses like those. Rust and wind and my eye. Was led into the ER by the ex wife and I found out how little she actually cared when she led into a doorframe at a full walk..
Protect your eyes folks..
Especially if he’s doing it constantly. Might as well buy a full face filter mask
Very informative. Fantastic video. Great job done. Rust Masters.👍
Great video, impressive!
Kudos on putting so much work into saving your car. I'm looking forward to watching the other parts of the video.
Good Video, rust removal is always tough to tackle. However, in the case that you have, where you don't have heavy Rust and scale, a faster and more thorough approach would be to use paint stripper, even a dremmel tool can't reach where paint stripper can. it may take two or three applications of the stripper, (use power washer to remove each application) but it will still be far faster than grinding and wire wheels and far more thorough. In fact, it is so thorough that afterwards you should use a phosphoric acid product that can be sprayed on, such as Ospho, or the liquid version of Rustoleum rust dissolver, so you can actually reach all the surface rust you exposed.
I don't disagree at all. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
lol
Thank you for the full walk-through including the fact it's never perfect on a real car. Coupled with your product testing on rust treatments, I feel I can confidently choose a treatment for my vehicle.
I think that will be a strip, treat and paint for the frame exterior. While lanolin coatings may be effective they also make other leaks hard to spot when the entire undercarriage is constantly oily. I'll likely just coat the interior of the frame rails in lanolin.
Just found you channel! I’ve learn more about this stuff I. The last two hours than I have from other videos! Subscribed!
This was helpful, as your rust chemical videos have been. I've been trying to decide on what products to use on my project, and this settled it for me. I'm doing some inner frame as well, and I don't trust any inner frame coatings to actually deal with the rust because why would the rust not just continue to eat the metal from under the paint? I don't buy it. I was going to do rust kutter but having products that play well together is a win for me. Thanks.
your the king of small talk.
Okay go watch shorts then...
rinsing the acid wash with a baking soda/water solution is a good idea for a more long lasting job, also rust is a moisture sponge, if you can apply the paint when the air humidity is very low and warm, there is less chance of trapping moisture in the rust.
It’s not needed with phosphoric acid
Great stuff! Thanks for your time
There's a black undercoating too. I sprayed my car black after I flashed it with sand blaster and sprayed with undercoating looked great
Nice video!. I have had fantastic results painting over tight rust with this stuff:
Rust-Oleum
Industrial High
Performance
V2100 System
Rust Reformer,
Aerosol Can
Haven’t found anything better
Wow I didn't know about this line of products. I've been using the Rustoleum Professional High Performance in spray cans, it has a similar silvery package label to the one you listed. Do you know how they compare to each other? What are the differences?
@@JPearlLapis I’m not sure, I haven’t used the one you mentioned. I have used the cold zinc coating before from the same line of products on boat lifts and have had good results as well
Thank you for making this
This looks like one of those projects you get involved with and then realize holy s*** what did I get myself into. Personally I would definitely prefer the oil method over this any day of the week. I'm sure you would too 😅😅
Absolutely. I've been doing the same thing, and what I'd hoped was a one week job tops to remove the entire rear end, clean things up, derust, paint, and replace all the bushings, BJs & link connectors, has turned into a month-long and counting undertaking. There was just SO much rust, none structurally concerning, everything's still rock-solid, but enough to keep me busy just with that for weeks. I mean if you're going to do it, do it right, so the rust doesn't come back again. But not something I ever want to do again. I'd sooner rebuild a trans.
Man I been there under a chassis trying to prep for paint. ONCE. Then I got a sand blaster. HUGE difference.
It's worth it if you don't live in area where rust is a big issue. I'm going to do this on a car I bought from an area with loads of salt on the road.
Yo buddy thanks alot.. im in the middle of a modern restoration, daily driver.. major new panel weld ins to resolve rust. Now underneath found some more rust. I decided just now do what i can reach the surfave shield the rest.. is what it is..
Great content ! I'm going to be doing a full restoration on my Fox body 🦊 from the ground up but I will be repairing the floor pan and frame rails .
I'm also going to use a rust converter on all the exposed metal fabrication . Thank You for the video .🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
For a job like this, you could use a turbo nozzle on your pressure washer. The constantly varying angle of the turbo nozzle combined with the jet it outputs will break up and blast away all lifted paint and a fair bit of scale very quickly. All those bumps you felt on the E-coat would have been blasted away by a turbo nozzle.
In shipyards, they pressure wash, then needle scale, and finish with sand blasting & hand sanding for their removal steps. And they get to deal with rust, barnacles, and who knows whatever other calcifying creatures that set up shop on a hull.
Lanolin will not stop rust. Only slow it. Cleab the frame, give it rust proof coatings of paint or bedliner or both, and then the ADDITION of lanolin coatings every year is what will protect the frame for the longest time. If it's a toyota, then the frame might outlast the engine.
Nothing beats rust/corrosion completely. Yearly applied lanolin will slow the progression of rust so much that it's no longer relevant for as long as you're willing to maintain the coating.
My last Fox , I used bedliner spray "textured finish" and it worked very well , like you stated "NOT A DAILY DRIVER" tho
This car came out AWESOME with the Raptor Liner. Finishing up reassembly now.
@@RepairGeek like to see that , u posted it yet? lol
No I'm currently working on it. It's going to be a few days. I'm trying to get an after shot with the car mostly reassembled lol.
@@RepairGeek sweet , take the time to get it almost perfect lol,,ttyl..i will be breaking my 85 coupe down soon , almost to bare body!!!
Wire brush. 80 grit sand paper. Prep is key. Getting to the "good" metal thats solid. That can be saved. But rott holes are doneso. Im planning on using this on my control arms and rear subframe. I can still jack the car up on the frame so its hopefully will save this subframe from its coming fate. I do also have like major rocker panels rusted out. Im gonna have to take of the side skirts and see what i can cut out and possibly use carbonfiber to fill in those holes. I just want the frame to be saved. Could car less about the rockers but if its not treated it will keeping eating its self out. I got the rust cutter but you just said to use the gel stuff. Smh the gel stuff is soo much cheaper. ...
in your other video of best converters you had a none spray rustoleum in a jug and didnt rate it well. is this spray gel different?
AMAZING video
Amazing job! 👍
amazing job
How did you decide on the paints you are using? Could you elaborate a bit on what else you were considering and how you narrowed it down to the mastercoat primer and raptor liner topcoat? Might be a good topic for another vid if you haven't already done it, I'd certainly watch it.
I'm going to talk about paint at length the next video.
Great video and explanation. You do a fantastic job. So would you recommend spraying Ospho or cavity coating inside the frame rails before or after pressure washing? Or pressure wash and then blow out the inside of the frame rails with high pressure air and then coat the inside a couple days later after it dries?
A-ha, It is a Mustang , just like I thought in part 2. I seen that first and now i watched part one. Cool. I have one too but mine is a fox chassis Stang . 1988 . cool vidoes and thanks for all the info. I think the bottom of mine looks about the same as yours.
About what I've done with my 1964 Valiant and 1965 Dart - mechanical rust removal followed by chemical treatment. I bought phosphoric acid in gallon at Home Depot (Concrete Etch & Metal Prep). I've since used Evapo-Rust, especially for parts I can drop in a jar. I also hate sand-blasting on the car. Where I've done that, like under the dash, I have sand coming out for years. Sand-blasting is good for isolated parts outdoors with intricate shapes like seat frames w/ springs, especially where you need the sand on the ground anyway, like say to fill a dry-laid brick walk. I've wrapped rusty exhaust manifolds in rags soak in phosphoric acid then plastic sheet and left for 2 weeks in summer. So much rust comes out as black phosphate that it bonds the rags which have to be ripped and brushed off, but the manifold winds up almost shiny and de-rusted enough to paint (special manifold paint, cured in oven).
Very good video and excellent insight, thanks for the heads-up. I think I will use that Blaster Lanolin spray instead. It would have been nice if the auto manufacturers spent the extra $50 to properly undercoat the vehicles before they were assembled, would have been a whole lot less work then...
the choice is clear, spray the hell out of the underside with lanolin!
Great video(s)! I’m looking at doing the same thing to my one ton truck. You should take the cleaning portion of this video and make a separate video of it so it’s easy to find. That was my question I was going to ask while watching the video and then the cleaning part came on! ☺️
Can you use phosphoric acid and then oil undercoat? Awesome video!
How old was that car? It really explains what us Midwest folks have to deal with half of the year every year
Using a paint stripper would help out - MUCH less grinding to do.
Although commercial products might be pricey, I'd mix my own 5-10% concentration of lye (NaOH) and corn/potato starch to make it into a gel, then apply with a brush or an undercoating sprayer. The only way you could get better results in paint stripping is just straight boiling parts in lye. And don't use it on aluminum.
Just be extra careful with the stuff getting in your eyes and on your skin, full suit, long thick rubber gloves and a face shield are mandatory. Respirator is only needed if you boil the thing.
Then you can get it off with a pressure washer, maybe repeat the process a couple times for areas of remaining paint, wash off again. It may take a bit more time, but it's sure much easier on your body. Then you can do the regular stuff - grind/blast rust spots, treat with phosphoric acid, etc.
gelling up the phosphoruc acid with corn starch works as well
So you suggest that for most of us trying to stave off rust under our daily driver that we should just use a lanoline of fluid film product and this sounds appealing to me. My question though is any prep needed before spraying the under carriage with a fluid film coating? Do you have a recommendation for the best fluid film for this application?
Would you recommend using Seam sealer in any areas?
Yes. Every seam anywhere!!!
Did you try Neutrarust though? Supposed to be really good, and acts as a primer too. Think it's a UK product.
Great videos!! After using Mastercoat permanent rust sealer how long did you wait to use Raptor Liner? If you wait a week or so do you have to sand/rough up Matercoat prior to using Raptor Liner?
If you’re cleaning off grease, MINERAL SPIRITS are WAY better. I tested cleaning grease off concrete with mineral spirits,
,acetone,diesel, Sonax wheel acid, degreasers….paint thinner worked the same as mineral spirits but is more intense to handle.
Have you tried “Oil Eater” degreaser? I haven’t used Simple Green since.
Thank you
The fluid film would look good and be a good option if it was black. I'm going through debating this now on a 2008 h2 I just bought body is perfect and interior is perfect but lots of rust underneath. I'm planning on using it for audio competition so I want it looking great.
why u caring how it looking---who be under dat ting?
@rabokarabekian409 because sql comps also judge on the vehicle condition because of cork sniffers. And as high as mine is yes you can see.
Neck Pain will go away after a couple days. When I ran a Crane in the Union I would get it all the time. Just Muscle soreness.
Hi man, I got some rust and some rust pitting on my rear inside wheel Wells. I've sanded as much as possible but rust still visible. I've also rust treated it with korust. And added crown t40 rust proofer on top. But I wamt to make it look better can I use eastwood rust encapulator topped with raptor liner then once dry top it with krown t40 again? I'm in the UK so hard to get a hold of other products. It's also daily driven. Thank you in advance
what about painting the rusty areas with POR?
That won't fix the rust under the existing paint like what I found.
Does the phosphoric acid play nicely with the seam sealer?
have you even throught about tryting to lower the lift to about regular suspension height and do the work on a creeper on your back, instead?
Any thoughts on Owatrol products? Sounds like it creaps in rust like a penetrating oil but than "dries" and uses the rust as part of the coating.
Another good question or at least a question I have, is the cost of each. What would be the difference. I'm talking about product costs only, not labor.
Could you use lanolin for further protection over the raptorliner?
Hi do you ever tested red oxide primer on rust ??
If you were gonna undercoat it would you still paint it or just undercoat the bare metal ?
i think you also have two options that you can first dip whole chassis into some electrolysis rust removal process which the electron removing the oxygen to anode , or you can use laser rust removal . but both not very suitable for DIY
? Do have more deets on that Rustoleum Rust Dissolver product? work it into cavities that are hard to get at with other tools or what do you do?
Brilliant tutorial. After sanding the rust away you applied phosphoric acid. Shall this be whiped of after drying or just paint it over? Is this acid ki d of rust converter? For example if rust pits occur, does this acid convert the rust and putty or paint can stick well?
Paint will stick nicely. No need to rinse
The instructions for the Mastercoat say to smooth out any scaling and then apply. Is it really necessary to use the phosphoric acid? I'm getting ready to de-rust my truck frame, thanks for posting this video! I had never heard of Mastercoat before.
I have to do this to my 07 4 runner...around rear axle and shock mounts...etc.
Just picked up an 04 GX470, she needs some love too.
I'm in the process of doing this to my trailer. I got it sand blasted for $250, then applied 2 coats of epoxy primer and scuffed with red Scotchbrite. Now I'm going to apply 2 coats of Raptor liner reduced 15% with an HVLP gun. Then assemble everything, then use the Shutz gun on the top to give the top a textured surface. There was a lot of surface rust under the factory paint, I think they just spray over the surface rust at the factory.
What was the brand sandblaster you used in the video?
Fluid film says a hot water pressure wash is necessary before painting. Did you have any issues or are they exaggerating to cover themselves?
@repairgeek do you think this process would work well in an older truck bed?
I told you before the very best paint is Rust-lock by Pettit it's a marine based paint. If an undercarriage is powerwashed with water and dried that paint will stick to rust and inhibit the rust out. It's made to be submerged in water. I know for a fact that it's the best paint out there. We painted my dads bumper and plow frame brackets 1 time and the metal never rusted after that. You will not listen...
The last time you commented about that stuff you said you were painting that bumper once a year...
Also, how many municipalities are willing to paint bridges with it? Will it withstand 90 days submerged in acetone? I'm pretty sure that any paint that will do 20 years on a salted bridge will hold up well on my car that sees summer rain 5x a year lol.
You've used a paint and got good results. That automatically makes everyone else wrong?
@@RepairGeek I really appreciate you calling out the inconsistencies with Robbie's recounting of results. I often look at new products based on reading from other people's experiences and if they aren't accurately retelling their results it gives a misleading picture of how the products actually perform...
@@JPearlLapis you would not believe the number of people that tell me their product is "best". No data to back it up, just a story. I could probably make a video about it 😂
20 seconds = 3 hours? Interest concept, Lol. Would sandblasting be a better option in this scenario?
Ideally yes. I would have sand blasted it. I doubt I would have saved any time because my blaster is small. My environment was my main limiting factor for sandblasting Sandblast, treat with acid, primer, and paint.
Did you remove all seam sealer before painting or only spots you felt necessary? I’m planning on doing this to a 99 civic and wanted to get your opinion. Thanks
I left the seam sealer. It comes down to what condition the car is in. If it's dried out and flaking then, yes strip it.
If you hadn't done anything to fix the rust, how long do you think it would take to become more than just a cosmetic issue, assuming the car was not driven again in the winter?
so @ 18:38 all that black rust and pitting is ok before all the coats? I just tried my first amateur job on a small circle to start and after sanding for awhile I had just a bunch of this blackness. Didn't know if it should be gone and pure silver or ok to move on with rust inhibitor ,primer filler primer paint
How long will this paint job last? 50 hours of paint blasts how many hours?
Question ever use Laser to remove rust
I haven't. I haven't had anyone offer me up one to use. They are crazy expensive as far as I'm aware.
In what order would you advise to degrease / phosphoric acid / re-sand, prior to painting??? Thanks
Degrease, remove rust, phosphoric acid, paint
@@RepairGeek Thank you
You got to totally remove the rust before applying oil? Orjust the loose rust? I removed the loose rust and flaking paint but there are still some pits and surface rust in places. Worth touching up those places with paint and then oil or just skip the paint and just do oil?
Just loose stuff. Do oil on a daily driver. Surface that you can't use oil, use what I showed in this series.
@@RepairGeek Surfaces that you can't use oil?
Can you get away with having an oily surface? Yes? Spray lanolin... If not paint it like I did here.
How about epoxy primer and over that epoxy paint?
Better
If I were restoring a car that will be a daily driver and I wanted to do this, let the paint cure, and follow up with an oil based undercoating, would this be a good idea?
if you did this with ospho how would you claen it off?
I'm in Illinois and would like to do this on my 2004 BMW 3 series coupe.
Black undercoat looks nice, but it also hides new rust.
Is your vehicle competing in a Concours d'Elegance
Questions, what about chemical rust reformer? Then prime and paint. And what about painting then lanolin? Could you get away with less labor on the paint job if you put lanolin on after the paint is set?
The rust reformers I've tested were less than ideal. Check my videos for the comparison test. If you're going to spray lanolin just spray the black version. You get the same effect as a coat of black paint with out the prep work of the BS of paint. Just recoat it once a year.
Hi man, I got some rust and some rust pitting on my rear inside wheel Wells. I've sanded as much as possible but rust still visible. I've also rust treated it korust. And added crown t40 rust proofer on top. But I wamt to make it look better can I use eastwood rust encapulator topped with raptor liner then once dry top it with krown t40 again? I'm in the UK so hard to get a hold of other products. It's also daily driven. Thank you in advance
Hi, what is your opinion on using naval products on a bare undercarriage? I'm thinking about red lead or red oxide primer etc etc
What I'm going to use will last much longer than oxide primer. Use what works for you, if that's oxide primer, go for it. I don't want to do all this again lol.