jaybradley100 i mean its pretty self explanatory on how to remove rust when he mentioned the tools he used and he gave good insight on what to do and what not to do. Better than not posting a video at all, right?
I agree, talking and pointing at things, then they magically are painted. But to be fair, he didn't say it was a how-to, just a restoration so I guess the title is accurate, it does the restoration just not it happening.
It has been a labour of love for me to paint the frame every autumn. Every spring, I paint also. However, I scrape, prime, sand, and then paint. It has been a labour of love since 1996.
I live on the coast and after many year of fighting rust some one told me about boiled lynseed oil. Its the best stuff I have ever used, its cheap doesn't flake off like paint and soaks into bad rusty spots that can't be reached. I recoat my chassis once a year inside and out for and have no rust issues now
Great video! I'm a first-time Jeep owner and just went through a frame restoration on my 1998 Wrangler SE (TJ) a couple weekends ago. On mine, I removed as much of the loose, flaky rust as possible. But instead of wire brushing everything real good, I opted to hit the entire frame and undercarriage with phosphoric acid to kill the rust and convert it to ferric phosphate, which is easy to paint. I then rattle canned the entire underside with Rustoleum Stop Rust Black Enamel. My TJ is going to strictly be a summer fun vehicle for our family. I intend to store in a climate-controlled garage over winter. So, I won't have to worry about corrosive road salt here in the Chicagoland area. Keep up the good work on your budget crawler. I am enthusiastically following along as I would like to make several improvements on my TJ, as well, but am also on a strict budget.
Nice! Haven't tried the acid method on a large scale like this, although I've restored plenty of tools using acetic acid (vinegar). Have always gone with the brute force removal method as I talked about here on anything larger than a hand tool. Tough to have a car and not drive it for 6 months of the year, but keeping this thing out of the salt is my plan as well.
Robb? how did you force the phosphoric acid inside the frame? Thanks "Evapo-Rust needs to maintain contact with your rusted item for the chemical reaction to work. Fully submerging the rusty item in Evapo-Rust is the best way to achieve this. So you will need a container large enough to put the item in and fully cover it in Evapo-Rust."
I wired brushed, cleaned scale and then spot treated with Phosphoric Acid over the past 2 seasons, to progressively work admittedly modest levels of rust down, cleaned, the used Rustoleum rust stop and painted. I have nearly no return rust... I used 3 cans of Eastwood internal frame [crossed my fingers] am about to do one last treatment with P.A. will clean, prime and finish paint. I am reluctant to use any rust proofing yet (to seal the surface) I do like the idea of oil based rust proofing either Fluid Film or N.H.O.U. as a finish.
Brother, your vids are amazing. Already saved me a lot of hassle and time. I have a 1999 TJ 4banger and I love it. Didn't get a deal like you but all the guys are amazed when I go up hills and thru ditches with ease. Only mod so far is 31 inch tires
NH oil undercoat is the best I have ever found. Saved my 4x4 7.4 L diesel adventure van and getting it applied to my TJ now. IT's an oxygen barrier and flows in-between the body joints, never drys out and stops all rust.
My 2015 JKU was already showing signs of rust everywhere underneath her, so I’ve already started protecting anything I see by cleaning as well as I can and spraying with industrial strength ant-rust paint. It looks so much better and I hopefully stopped the cancer.
Probably one of the most realistic videos on saving a frame from rot.....drain hole and spraying the inside of the frame with an oil treatment is spot on.....I would go through and spray the inside of the frame once a year and touch up any outside frame rust.
@@dironaa how did you tackle the internal side of the frame? I did the drain holes as you mentioned, the outside of my frame seems good but there is rust flakes inside. Did you just do the fluid film?
@@ryansremark6983 I duct taped a 3' section of garden hose to a shop vac and sucked out as much as I could. You can tap the outside of the frame with a hammer to try braking loose any flakes on the inside walls of the frame too.
@@dironaa okie. And after that did you just do fluid film internally or a rust converter like corroseal before fluid film? I've heard that Eastwood encapsulator is trash cause of moisture build up.
If you purchase a plumbing pipe cleaning spring, these can come in 3 or 4 metre length's, you can cut this in shorter bits and use it with a drill, you can drill sections of the frame and push the spring inside the frame attach the drill and this will clean inside the frame. Just use a air line in the holes to clean out any crap and scale.
Great Vid! Have the same issue with the gloss paint, so, what I do, is use the gloss paint first, then go back over the gloss with a matt coat, that gives you the better rust protection, along with the benefit of the matt finish hiding more of the scaling.
Doug Yankunas I just put 2 gallons of fluid film into my 2003 fully restored/rebuilt Grang Cherokee. I spayed behind all panels, inside the frame , any little hole I could find inside my doors too. Inside the hood , tailgate etc you get the idea . We’ll see how it holds up The is winter in salty Wisconsin. Btw. I painted everything underneath with Eastwood platinum before the fluid film
I applied hard wax undercarriage and did several coats. Then used inner cavity wax which is a thinner blend lighter weight for rockers, doors quarter panels. It flows in and seeps into the pinch welds. Both hold up really well but once a year you can check undercarriage areas swearing off. Mine has been holding up and barely any touch ups. I usually check every time I have change my oil.
doing this now. i also had the idea to add some weep holes to the frame and rad support. the few factory drains are cupped up which do not let all the water out.
Normally, you'll see a paint pen mark to show that an item has been fitted, and then checked. For example, someone's process may be fitting 10 bolts and then having to torque them....once done, they will paint mark the bolt. You might see two different coloured paint marks; that is because the bolt may get torque checked again further down the line.... especially if it's a 'safety critical' item.
So much work and no one can appreciate it until they have done it the right way. You really should have used a rust encapsulator especially with all the prep you did. Happy to see you disassembled a lot to get to the areas and into the hidden rust. It takes so much time to do it right not just spray the crap rubberized undercoat. Inside the frame is also just as and even more so to preserve it since it will continue to rusts inside out.
That's for sure. Rust encapsulator would have been a good option too but I've also had decent luck with the rustoleum rattle cans I used instead, since we went down to bare metal and essentially removed all of the rust. Although not always feasible, I generally try to live by the phrase 'do it right or not at all', which usually makes for more work in the short run but the extra work usually pays dividends down the road.
Corrosion X is the best corrosion product you can buy. The military and Navy uses it, so you know it works, and works very good. It's a fluid thin film oil product, best when spray with air sprayer.
I kno u received some guff for not showing the details nonetheless I’m glad to see someone who does a job right. So many only care about “visible mods” but u do a complete job that isn’t easy or has glamorous results, but are intended to preserve the life of a vehicle. I for one appreciate the thorough and extra effort! Really helpful. I’ve been following ur build from the start and tho it’s way out of my league, you provide so many great tips that I hope to incorporate. Way to be.. keep it coming and keep the faith!
Have a 99 Wrangler and had to to actually cut out rust and replace metal, welding in scabs. Used the old aircraft patch technique, you have a spot the patch is 1.5 times as big. What I do first is cut out all of the rust area back to solid steel, suggest that you try and make it straight if possible or follow the frame line. Next get a piece of heavy cardboard and a ball peen hammer. Place it over the hole and tap away, you now have a pattern of the hole you made. Cut and transfer this pattern to a piece of 1/4" steel, your method of cutting out is up to you, I prefer a Plasma borrowed from my Buddy, and make the scab. Then make it a good fit and weld it in. Grind it back smooth, you could stop there but I go a little further. Take that pattern and make a plate roughly 1.5x bigger in length. Drill with a hole saw some holes in this piece. Now weld this over the plate you just installed, then weld around the holes in the top plate. This is done to provide better strength to the patch, now this repair is actually stronger than a brand new frame. Have repaired several other vehicles over the years for this issue and it ALWAYS works. A needle gun is your best friend for this type of project.
I clean the inside of the frame and cross members with a pressure washer sewer jetter. Then it will dry until the next day, and then I spray the insides with a penetrating oil wax.
Aaron I think what you are asking is how to get all the dust off. If you are able, rinse it off with a hose. If not, air will work too. You dont want to start adding anything till the question in part if fully clean and dry.
The issue with painting over the frame is when you go to sell the car and the buyer sees the "repainted" frame and then wonders WHY it was painted over ... and generally its to cover over the rust. Then you dont know if they just painted over the rust or cleaned it down 1st like you did and then painted over. But one heck of a job ...
Hey excellent video and job. I also use the internal frame coat. Worked great on my 89 K5 Blazer. I Waxoyl the undercarriage. That was 11 years ago. Still rust free and daily driver.
Looks good and thanks for talking about the importance of wearing a respirator, there are so many videos out there with people sanding on cars breathing in dust, not good
Yes Fluid Film is Boss.Sprayed my old pickup a few years ago and i can see where it creeped and walked to the outside paint on my rear bumper and other rusted area's.
They work well for stripping paint and removing surface rust but I've had better luck removing heavily pitted rust with the wire wheels. I do agree with you though, they would have been good to use for some parts of this job. The only down side is they seem to wear down much quicker than wire wheels and the ones I've been buying are a little pricey.
Try P B Blaster surface shield, I was a fan of fluid film for years until I tried P B Blaster. It is a noticable difference, now aI only use Fluid film in a pinch.
@@smcfall2 I got that covered! About last year, I installed some wider fender flares, like the bushwacker ones that look like oem but wider, and I also removed the Bumper camps off the front and the rear, no rust, but some dirty/sand! Pulling the carpet seems strange, but I'll check it out, why not.
@@rmat9023 jeeps (and a lot of other cars) rust out in two places usually - those bumper caps and floorboard...glad to hear that theres at least one jeep still in premo condition...congrats..now keep it that way...please...
@@smcfall2 Well about keeping that way... This jeep basically sat most of its life, being ocasionally driven, and not much. Its a 4.0 manual, 2000 tj sport with 50,000 californian miles on it. But in the last year, it got a 3.5 inch lift, 33 inch tires, new wheels, skid plates, etc. And I have done some fairly decent trails and crawling with it. The mechanic offered 10K for it but nah!
The joy of living in a salt state! Why go out and enjoy the weekend wheeling or camping when you can spend the weekend fixing rust! Why do we do this to ourselves? Why not just move to a state that does not destroy or vehicles a few years after purchase. Good hard work you did. Have been there before. I also drilled holes in the bottom of my TJ to help clean it out.
If you buy a new jeep, or vehicle, do yourself a favor, do not get it rust proofed with undercoating, it will cause it to rust worse in the long run.. you are better off not doing it and just subscribe to a carwash and run though a couple times a week.. But even better than that, buy a case of COSMOLINE and spend a weekend while your vehicle is new, and coat everything under it in this stuff and nothing will ever rust.... Remove panels and inner fenders and get it everywhere, inside frames , frame holes, doors, anywhere it would rust.... It is much easier to do before it rusts than to remove rust like this and i did later then treat.. it is such a PITA
Don't use spray can paint on the outside of the frame. It is NOT made for the extreme conditions of a vehicle underside. Use Por15 instead and you also do not need to grind the frame down to bare metal. That is a lot of unnecessary work. Love adding in drain holes AND treating the inside of the frame! Also, blaster surface shield is great for inside the frame as well.
Thanks for the tips. I’ve used the method shown in the video several times and I’ve been very happy with the results. Its a labor intensive, but cost effective way to deal with the rust
@@dironaa Grinding the rust off and going down to bare metal is the ONLY way to go, I agree with you. Sure you can paint over the rust with POR15 and it will last for a few years. But if you do the job right and want it to last for 10 years, do what you did
I started pumping used oil in the frame I put foam in the side holes and filled both sides if your frame is not rusty yet it will be , mine had zero rust 2 years ago now one side is showing but until I can get to it the oil will stop it from getting worse!
Finally, a person who seems to know how to treat undercarriage rust on youtube. A lot of bad info out there these days. But even you admit that this is not a perfect job and that a perfect job might not ever be possible. In the off chance that you read this, how many years do you think a frame with this level of treatment will hold up against rust?
If the vehicle is driven on salty roads in the winter you're going to see some rust coming through within a year, but it probably won't look like it did in the beginning of the video for at least another 4 or 5 years. But that's assuming you paint it and do nothing else to it...if you coat the frame with a good coat Fluid Film inside and out annually (just before road salt season) I could see it lasting indefinitely. That being said, if you don't live with road salt or large amounts of humidity a paint job like this will last for a very very long time...you'll just be left dealing with the rusty bolts and everything else that's rusted on the vehicle.
Just spray everything with Phosphoric Acid, converts the iron oxide to iron phosphate. wipe clean and then paint with etching primer. same chemical thats in rust converter or naval jelly. NOT CLR, thats a cleaner not a converter.
@@Baby_Suge mehbeh? what does it matter if you can buy the concentrated version? concrete prep and metal etch at home depot. 100%, dilute as needed with water.
Very nice job maybe I should keep going on my jeep 01 wrangler .I bought a gallon of chassi saver and paint it on in some spot.i hope it help what do you think
Good job what I would have used is Rust-Oleum bed liner spray it's a lot more durable than pain in holds up but living on the East Coast that is what happens to vehicles and that's just one of many reasons I want live on the east coast ever again
True! In my opinion bed liner is actually too durable, meaning that if any of it fails and starts separating from the frame it won’t flake off and expose the steel underneath, instead it will form a pocket for water to sit in
I have a 2009 4Runner, and I want to fully redo the frame and metal parts. My concern is the inside of the frame. Since this cannot be seen, nor can I clean it out properly, Im not sure how to do this so I can spray it. Because from what Im aware, you need to clean off the rust inside before applying any sprays - because if you don't, then you'll just trap in the moisture even more, rusting it out faster.
You don’t need to clean the inside if you apply an oil product like Fluid Film or NH oil undercoating. An oil will soak into the crevices and irregularities and prevent water from accumulating
Your jeep Verison of Rust is NOT Michigan's Jeep Version of Rust.... we would be Happy to see what your Vechicle is Like. I Just HOPE all these Jeeps keep getting worked on, and cleaned, and Improved, and Protected by their owners... stay safe on the trails! Help who you can. God Bless!
Wow man. Great job. All that rust makes me sick! I live in Colorado and have a little Offroad trailer that I’m going to clean up and I thought the rust was bad on it. You did a great job in this
@@DJR5280 not like this! Just little bit from the winter salt. But here it doesn’t stay snowy all winter, so it will snow and then get warm so I always spray everything off real good after it warms up after a snow
@@Colorado4x4 I actually live in Broomfield. I was just curious if your vehicle has rust. My Tahoe has some frame rust and it's annoying me. Just surface and easily cleanable but still. Not used to seeing a lot of rust here
@@DJR5280 oh cool. We live in Caste Rock. How old is the Tahoe? I haven’t seen too much rust on my vehicles here. Just a little bit of surface rust but I always wash the car after every snow storm once it dries up to get the chemical off of it.
Rustoleum self etching primer and rustoleum gloss enamel. The price of these pants has more than doubled in the past few years so if i were to paint it again I’d look into using Eastwood products instead
You mentioned you got the paint at Walmart. Can you provide the brand name and if you recommend using it again? How is the frame holding up? Cant wait for the next video!
Its Rustoleum "Professional" enamel, I use it on most of my projects. It works great for the price. Frame is holding up well! Hopefully more videos coming over the winter
I’m doing that too but I’ll do epoxy primer and hit it with 2 k filler primer after 24 hrs of spraying epoxy no need to sand but I’ll sand the filler primer and then paint
Never knew a tjs sway bar was mounted on the frame behind the bumper on the top side like that. And was that a brake line running parallel with it!? Sorry i own an xj and a wagoneer and would like to buy a tj like this one eventually.
Thanks for making this video. I just picked up a 04 TJ that I want to do some rust removal/preventative work on. I've never done anything like this before so your video was very helpful. If you do anymore I'd appreciate your recommendations on rust preventative products. I'll probably do some more research but may just end up going w/eastwood products.
Eastwood seems to make good products but they’re pricey. Speaking from experience I do not recommend their internal frame coating unless you don’t plan on driving your jeep in the rain/snow ever again. Without removing the frame and having it chemical dipped there is no way to properly prep the inside surface, which means the paint won’t stick properly or uniformly. This will result in some parts of the paint job starting to lift, creating pockets that hold moisture and rust out your frame even faster than in had done no painting. In short my recommendation is to prime (preferably etching primer) and paint the outside of the frame then coat the inside with fluid film. If you live in an area where road salt is used and don’t want to paint the frame again is also use fluid film on the outside after painting, but let the paint cut for a few months before coating with fluid film. Also make sure you drill some drain holes in that frame!
Good video! I've done the same thing on some vehicles, and have done some full frame-off jobs (which is a lot more work), and I must say that in most cases what you have done is more than sufficient.
Fluid Film is the best coating to prevent rust. If you live somewhere with road salt I'd clean up the frame with a wire wheel, coat with Rustoleum etching primer and black enamel, then top coat with fluid film after the paint has cured for a while.
I’m trying to do a similar build. I recently got a killer deal on a 98 TJ 4.0. It’s already has a 3” lift. Right now my plan is to up grade steering and axles. I’m really curious what the exhaust leak you mentioned in a previous video ended up being (if you fixed it). I have an exhaust leak that seems to be coming from the same place but only hear it when the engine is warm and can’t seem to figure for sure if that’s where it’s coming from.
Dirona ? if doing this to a stock TJ, is there a way to temporarily lift the body from the frame, or would a body lift need to be installed and then removed after the paint dries? Thanks in advance
If you watch the video I did on installing the body lift, I don't see why you couldn't temporaryily do something similar with a few small blocks of wood (2x4 maybe) just while you're prepping and painting. But that's just a thought, proceed at your own risk
Yes, but the downside is that you may unintentionally blast things other than the frame and remove the factory corrosion protection from the bottom of the body or other components
Did you spray or brush? I'm looking at brushing as you can get into so many more tighter areas and Im not worried about the finish looking super smooth
I used rustoleum “professional” enamel over rustoleum self etching primer, only because of the price point and ease of availability at the time. The price of rustoleum has almost tripled in the last 3 years so I’d probably look at buying Eastwood paint instead at this point. Some Eastwood paints aren’t compatible with self etching primer, but if compatible that’s what I prefer to use.
It coats the steel with a thin layer of 'oil' that prevents oxidation (i.e. rust). Its a self-healing coating that will creep to nearly fully cover any steel you apply it to. It does need periodic reapplication (yearly or every other year typically)
Excellent video. I have an 02 TJ that needs some frame work. No factory drain holes. What size drain holes did you drill? How did you flush the dirt and rust scale from the frame interior? Thanks for your help!
I taped a section of garden hose to the end of a shop vac hose to suck everything out. Here’s a video showing drain holes: ruclips.net/video/S-yiVPdV7pk/видео.html
I haven’t been too impressed with por15, used it many years ago and it failed (rusted through) less than 10 years after application despite it being advertised as a permanent solution. Much more labor intensive to remove and refinish the por15 after it fails than to refinish paint after it fails. But that was only one experience
@@dironaa por 15 isn't a one and done. I do a quick touch up each year before winter. Por 15 actually has a chemical reaction where paint is just a cover up
@Bryan - So, sand then por 15 then fluid film plus before winter touch up with fluid film? I'm trying to find the best way to stop rust on my 95 Wrangler.
3:45 - Notice the "A" parking sticker from the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco? That jeep spent some time around salt suspended in fog! There's also a good chance it was taken up to Tahoe in the winters too. May I ask where you acquired it?
You want to restore the rust the easy hard to get internal frame your right Eastwood but the easy out side that u can just slap on that will convert your rust back to steel and it will prime and seal is CORROSEAL. For sale amazon or homedepot and all u need is 1qt its gose a really long way then top coat with rustouloem semi or gloss professional tall silver can and it will last forever as long as u wash it clean every now and then.
@@dironaa yup no worries it saved be alot of money on spray cans I did both of my Broncos complete under body and frame including inside seat frame rust and behind the dash the stuff is awesome with only 2qts. Oh and what ever u have left u can use on anything at home thats rusted.
NICE TJ! Many thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I also find it interesting to disassemble something and realize that I'm the first person to see (X) item since the Jeep was built. Makes me giddy. Your vid will be very helpful while I continue to clean my (recently-purchased) '01 TJ and consider the order of operations and options. I'm with you; I'm not building a show TJ. I just want a nice-looking driver that's gonna last. A huge thanks from Ohio, my friend.
See the Project Farm RUclips videos for a good bedliner paint for bare metal, and using Evaporust from a Harbor Freight store. I buy the Fluid Film spray from a Lowes store. Also see videos about melting vaseline (petroleum jelly).
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](/img/1.gif)
Great details, I think showing a bit of the cleaning and panting process would have been good.
Same, itd be nice to see more of the process
Wellp that was just a video of you talking. Didn’t show one second of rust removal. Misleading title
Welp. This is just a comment of you bitching. Not so much misleading. But definitely a useless comment.
Bewbathis he’s right
Wasted much of his time explaining about how to take a Jeep apart
Useless information unless you are disassembling a Jeep.
jaybradley100 i mean its pretty self explanatory on how to remove rust when he mentioned the tools he used and he gave good insight on what to do and what not to do. Better than not posting a video at all, right?
I agree, talking and pointing at things, then they magically are painted. But to be fair, he didn't say it was a how-to, just a restoration so I guess the title is accurate, it does the restoration just not it happening.
Using a needle scaler and wire brush is usually pretty self explanatory.
It has been a labour of love for me to paint the frame every autumn. Every spring, I paint also. However, I scrape, prime, sand, and then paint. It has been a labour of love since 1996.
I live on the coast and after many year of fighting rust some one told me about boiled lynseed oil. Its the best stuff I have ever used, its cheap doesn't flake off like paint and soaks into bad rusty spots that can't be reached. I recoat my chassis once a year inside and out for and have no rust issues now
Good to know. I've had similar results with Fluid Film.
Might as well have just shown before and after pics
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video! I'm a first-time Jeep owner and just went through a frame restoration on my 1998 Wrangler SE (TJ) a couple weekends ago. On mine, I removed as much of the loose, flaky rust as possible. But instead of wire brushing everything real good, I opted to hit the entire frame and undercarriage with phosphoric acid to kill the rust and convert it to ferric phosphate, which is easy to paint. I then rattle canned the entire underside with Rustoleum Stop Rust Black Enamel.
My TJ is going to strictly be a summer fun vehicle for our family. I intend to store in a climate-controlled garage over winter. So, I won't have to worry about corrosive road salt here in the Chicagoland area.
Keep up the good work on your budget crawler. I am enthusiastically following along as I would like to make several improvements on my TJ, as well, but am also on a strict budget.
Nice! Haven't tried the acid method on a large scale like this, although I've restored plenty of tools using acetic acid (vinegar). Have always gone with the brute force removal method as I talked about here on anything larger than a hand tool. Tough to have a car and not drive it for 6 months of the year, but keeping this thing out of the salt is my plan as well.
Robb? how did you force the phosphoric acid inside the frame? Thanks
"Evapo-Rust needs to maintain contact with your rusted item for the chemical reaction to work. Fully submerging the rusty item in Evapo-Rust is the best way to achieve this. So you will need a container large enough to put the item in and fully cover it in Evapo-Rust."
Robb Walker is
I wired brushed, cleaned scale and then spot treated with Phosphoric Acid over the past 2 seasons, to progressively work admittedly modest levels of rust down, cleaned, the used Rustoleum rust stop and painted. I have nearly no return rust... I used 3 cans of Eastwood internal frame [crossed my fingers] am about to do one last treatment with P.A. will clean, prime and finish paint. I am reluctant to use any rust proofing yet (to seal the surface) I do like the idea of oil based rust proofing either Fluid Film or N.H.O.U. as a finish.
Skipping the actual rust removal in a rust removal video has me rustled.
Brother, your vids are amazing. Already saved me a lot of hassle and time. I have a 1999 TJ 4banger and I love it. Didn't get a deal like you but all the guys are amazed when I go up hills and thru ditches with ease. Only mod so far is 31 inch tires
It’s amazing how capable these jeeps are in stock form, I think the 4 cylinder doesn’t usually get the credit it deserves
NH oil undercoat is the best I have ever found. Saved my 4x4 7.4 L diesel adventure van and getting it applied to my TJ now. IT's an oxygen barrier and flows in-between the body joints, never drys out and stops all rust.
I think that’s similar to Fluid Film, which I use on all my cars and have been very impressed with
My 2015 JKU was already showing signs of rust everywhere underneath her, so I’ve already started protecting anything I see by cleaning as well as I can and spraying with industrial strength ant-rust paint. It looks so much better and I hopefully stopped the cancer.
Can be a tedious process but it's well worth the effort in the long run!
Probably one of the most realistic videos on saving a frame from rot.....drain hole and spraying the inside of the frame with an oil treatment is spot on.....I would go through and spray the inside of the frame once a year and touch up any outside frame rust.
That's been my annual fall routine for the past 10+ years since discovering fluid film, best method I've found so far for frame preservation!
@@dironaa seems to be working great for you ,year after year .
wow, i can see why you put it off as long as you could. thats a ton of work! really came out very nicely though.
Thanks!
@@dironaa how did you tackle the internal side of the frame? I did the drain holes as you mentioned, the outside of my frame seems good but there is rust flakes inside. Did you just do the fluid film?
@@ryansremark6983 I duct taped a 3' section of garden hose to a shop vac and sucked out as much as I could. You can tap the outside of the frame with a hammer to try braking loose any flakes on the inside walls of the frame too.
@@dironaa okie. And after that did you just do fluid film internally or a rust converter like corroseal before fluid film? I've heard that Eastwood encapsulator is trash cause of moisture build up.
@@ryansremark6983 Just fluid film. I tried the eastwood internal frame coating years ago but didn't like it for the reason you mentioned.
If you purchase a plumbing pipe cleaning spring, these can come in 3 or 4 metre length's, you can cut this in shorter bits and use it with a drill, you can drill sections of the frame and push the spring inside the frame attach the drill and this will clean inside the frame. Just use a air line in the holes to clean out any crap and scale.
Great tip, thank you!
Great Vid! Have the same issue with the gloss paint, so, what I do, is use the gloss paint first, then go back over the gloss with a matt coat, that gives you the better rust protection, along with the benefit of the matt finish hiding more of the scaling.
Great tip! I've done that a few times.
How did the combination with the top paint hold up?
Doug Yankunas
I just put 2 gallons of fluid film into my 2003 fully restored/rebuilt Grang Cherokee. I spayed behind all panels, inside the frame , any little hole I could find inside my doors too. Inside the hood , tailgate etc you get the idea . We’ll see how it holds up The is winter in salty Wisconsin. Btw. I painted everything underneath with Eastwood platinum before the fluid film
Fluid film is some great stuff, I think it'll do well.
I applied hard wax undercarriage and did several coats. Then used inner cavity wax which is a thinner blend lighter weight for rockers, doors quarter panels. It flows in and seeps into the pinch welds. Both hold up really well but once a year you can check undercarriage areas swearing off. Mine has been holding up and barely any touch ups. I usually check every time I have change my oil.
Great to hear. Would be nice if manufacturers used more cavity wax during vehicle production.
doing this now. i also had the idea to add some weep holes to the frame and rad support. the few factory drains are cupped up which do not let all the water out.
Sounds like a terrible design from the factory
Normally, you'll see a paint pen mark to show that an item has been fitted, and then checked. For example, someone's process may be fitting 10 bolts and then having to torque them....once done, they will paint mark the bolt.
You might see two different coloured paint marks; that is because the bolt may get torque checked again further down the line.... especially if it's a 'safety critical' item.
Very interesting, thanks for the info
So much work and no one can appreciate it until they have done it the right way. You really should have used a rust encapsulator especially with all the prep you did. Happy to see you disassembled a lot to get to the areas and into the hidden rust. It takes so much time to do it right not just spray the crap rubberized undercoat. Inside the frame is also just as and even more so to preserve it since it will continue to rusts inside out.
That's for sure. Rust encapsulator would have been a good option too but I've also had decent luck with the rustoleum rattle cans I used instead, since we went down to bare metal and essentially removed all of the rust. Although not always feasible, I generally try to live by the phrase 'do it right or not at all', which usually makes for more work in the short run but the extra work usually pays dividends down the road.
Corrosion X is the best corrosion product you can buy. The military and Navy uses it, so you know it works, and works very good. It's a fluid thin film oil product, best when spray with air sprayer.
I'll have to look into it, thanks for the suggestion!
I kno u received some guff for not showing the details nonetheless I’m glad to see someone who does a job right. So many only care about “visible mods” but u do a complete job that isn’t easy or has glamorous results, but are intended to preserve the life of a vehicle. I for one appreciate the thorough and extra effort! Really helpful. I’ve been following ur build from the start and tho it’s way out of my league, you provide so many great tips that I hope to incorporate. Way to be.. keep it coming and keep the faith!
Thanks man! Can’t build a house without a good foundation.
Have a 99 Wrangler and had to to actually cut out rust and replace metal, welding in scabs. Used the old aircraft patch technique, you have a spot the patch is 1.5 times as big. What I do first is cut out all of the rust area back to solid steel, suggest that you try and make it straight if possible or follow the frame line. Next get a piece of heavy cardboard and a ball peen hammer. Place it over the hole and tap away, you now have a pattern of the hole you made. Cut and transfer this pattern to a piece of 1/4" steel, your method of cutting out is up to you, I prefer a Plasma borrowed from my Buddy, and make the scab. Then make it a good fit and weld it in. Grind it back smooth, you could stop there but I go a little further. Take that pattern and make a plate roughly 1.5x bigger in length. Drill with a hole saw some holes in this piece. Now weld this over the plate you just installed, then weld around the holes in the top plate. This is done to provide better strength to the patch, now this repair is actually stronger than a brand new frame. Have repaired several other vehicles over the years for this issue and it ALWAYS works. A needle gun is your best friend for this type of project.
Thanks for sharing the technique. I’ve used a few Safe-T-Caps for frame repair over the years but may try your method next time
I clean the inside of the frame and cross members with a pressure washer sewer jetter. Then it will dry until the next day, and then I spray the insides with a penetrating oil wax.
Would love to know how you clean all the rust off after the wire wheel usage.
Wire wheel was the last step before etching primer
Aaron I think what you are asking is how to get all the dust off. If you are able, rinse it off with a hose. If not, air will work too. You dont want to start adding anything till the question in part if fully clean and dry.
use a dremmel and cut into the heads of the screws and you can use a flathead to remove
Hhhmmmmmmm... I'm going to try that on my stripped out torxs on my CJ tailgate hinge.
Thats a good idea....
That's a good idea. If that fails then just use a drill and drill them out. Put regular bolts in after. I hate those things
The issue with painting over the frame is when you go to sell the car and the buyer sees the "repainted" frame and then wonders WHY it was painted over ... and generally its to cover over the rust. Then you dont know if they just painted over the rust or cleaned it down 1st like you did and then painted over.
But one heck of a job ...
Exactly. I'll usually walk away from any car that has had a frame repaint. Luckily I don't plan on selling this one!
This is inspiring me to start working on my trucks frame. Nice video.
Thanks, good luck!
Hey excellent video and job. I also use the internal frame coat. Worked great on my 89 K5 Blazer. I Waxoyl the undercarriage. That was 11 years ago. Still rust free and daily driver.
Haven't used waxoyl before. How often do you apply it?
Looks good and thanks for talking about the importance of wearing a respirator, there are so many videos out there with people sanding on cars breathing in dust, not good
Agreed, too many people underestimate the importance of PPE
Yes Fluid Film is Boss.Sprayed my old pickup a few years ago and i can see where it creeped and walked to the outside paint on my rear bumper and other rusted area's.
I won’t use anything else!
Hi whare can buy it the fluid sprayer go old school car need to do it thank s much
@@angelgarcias7328 I got it at Advance Auto here in Massachusetts but you can buyit on Ebay or Amazon easily.
Using a poly disc wheel pad will work well to remove the rust. It does not leave the scars like the wire cup.
Wait really
They work well for stripping paint and removing surface rust but I've had better luck removing heavily pitted rust with the wire wheels. I do agree with you though, they would have been good to use for some parts of this job. The only down side is they seem to wear down much quicker than wire wheels and the ones I've been buying are a little pricey.
Hey man you shod show the details when you make any project .
I just bought a truck that has no where near as much rust as this and I was worried. This gave me confidence to tackle the job.
+1 on fluid film, I winterize my truck underbody with that yearly, fantastic lubricant as well
Have yet to find a better rust preventative!
@@dironaa Try Woolwax
Try P B Blaster surface shield, I was a fan of fluid film for years until I tried P B Blaster. It is a noticable difference, now aI only use Fluid film in a pinch.
I’ll look into it, thank you!
Good thing my Jeep has spent all 21 years of its life in Southern California. No rust. Fender flares are Still black too!
I bet if you pull those bumper caps off theres rust...better check it...pull the front carpet up too...word to the wise
@@smcfall2 I got that covered! About last year, I installed some wider fender flares, like the bushwacker ones that look like oem but wider, and I also removed the Bumper camps off the front and the rear, no rust, but some dirty/sand! Pulling the carpet seems strange, but I'll check it out, why not.
@@rmat9023 jeeps (and a lot of other cars) rust out in two places usually - those bumper caps and floorboard...glad to hear that theres at least one jeep still in premo condition...congrats..now keep it that way...please...
@@smcfall2 Well about keeping that way... This jeep basically sat most of its life, being ocasionally driven, and not much. Its a 4.0 manual, 2000 tj sport with 50,000 californian miles on it. But in the last year, it got a 3.5 inch lift, 33 inch tires, new wheels, skid plates, etc. And I have done some fairly decent trails and crawling with it. The mechanic offered 10K for it but nah!
The joy of living in a salt state! Why go out and enjoy the weekend wheeling or camping when you can spend the weekend fixing rust! Why do we do this to ourselves? Why not just move to a state that does not destroy or vehicles a few years after purchase. Good hard work you did. Have been there before. I also drilled holes in the bottom of my TJ to help clean it out.
If you buy a new jeep, or vehicle, do yourself a favor, do not get it rust proofed with undercoating, it will cause it to rust worse in the long run.. you are better off not doing it and just subscribe to a carwash and run though a couple times a week.. But even better than that, buy a case of COSMOLINE and spend a weekend while your vehicle is new, and coat everything under it in this stuff and nothing will ever rust.... Remove panels and inner fenders and get it everywhere, inside frames , frame holes, doors, anywhere it would rust.... It is much easier to do before it rusts than to remove rust like this and i did later then treat.. it is such a PITA
A tip: When jacking, use a a bit of plywood between the bottle jack and the frame. Steel on steel is bad because it can slip off the jack.
Its true, and dangerous
Don't use spray can paint on the outside of the frame. It is NOT made for the extreme conditions of a vehicle underside.
Use Por15 instead and you also do not need to grind the frame down to bare metal. That is a lot of unnecessary work.
Love adding in drain holes AND treating the inside of the frame! Also, blaster surface shield is great for inside the frame as well.
Thanks for the tips. I’ve used the method shown in the video several times and I’ve been very happy with the results. Its a labor intensive, but cost effective way to deal with the rust
@@dironaa Grinding the rust off and going down to bare metal is the ONLY way to go, I agree with you. Sure you can paint over the rust with POR15 and it will last for a few years. But if you do the job right and want it to last for 10 years, do what you did
Looks good for what you started with. We use a coating called Rust Mort to paint the frames with.
Cool, haven't heard of that but will check it out!
Haven’t seen Rust Mort in years. Where do you get it?
Looks good, I want to preserve my frame. Thanks
Thanks. It’s worth the effort!
Looks great honestly nice work
Thanks!
High temp paint works well on brake calipers and drums.
Yes, good tip!
I started pumping used oil in the frame I put foam in the side holes and filled both sides if your frame is not rusty yet it will be , mine had zero rust 2 years ago now one side is showing but until I can get to it the oil will stop it from getting worse!
Old school method, tried and true!
Thank you so much...Love from India...Gonna try this on my Suzuki Gypsy (Jimmy)
Great!
Finally, a person who seems to know how to treat undercarriage rust on youtube. A lot of bad info out there these days. But even you admit that this is not a perfect job and that a perfect job might not ever be possible. In the off chance that you read this, how many years do you think a frame with this level of treatment will hold up against rust?
If the vehicle is driven on salty roads in the winter you're going to see some rust coming through within a year, but it probably won't look like it did in the beginning of the video for at least another 4 or 5 years. But that's assuming you paint it and do nothing else to it...if you coat the frame with a good coat Fluid Film inside and out annually (just before road salt season) I could see it lasting indefinitely. That being said, if you don't live with road salt or large amounts of humidity a paint job like this will last for a very very long time...you'll just be left dealing with the rusty bolts and everything else that's rusted on the vehicle.
How long does it take to dry completely??? Wish you would've showed us a little bit of how you removed the rust but your effort is much appreciated...
Thank you. The paint I used took a couple weeks to fully cure but there at paints out there that dry faster
Just spray everything with Phosphoric Acid, converts the iron oxide to iron phosphate. wipe clean and then paint with etching primer. same chemical thats in rust converter or naval jelly.
NOT CLR, thats a cleaner not a converter.
It’s phosphoric acid the chemical in Rust Mort?
@@Baby_Suge mehbeh? what does it matter if you can buy the concentrated version? concrete prep and metal etch at home depot. 100%, dilute as needed with water.
Very nice job maybe I should keep going on my jeep 01 wrangler .I bought a gallon of chassi saver and paint it on in some spot.i hope it help what do you think
The only way big jobs get done is a little at a time. Keep it up and you'll have the whole thing painted before long
Rust removal and paint primer methods are always welcome. Sometimes you find new tips
Absolutely!
I am going to do the same thing this summer to my 98 Jeep Wrangler
Well worth the effort!
Good job what I would have used is Rust-Oleum bed liner spray it's a lot more durable than pain in holds up but living on the East Coast that is what happens to vehicles and that's just one of many reasons I want live on the east coast ever again
True! In my opinion bed liner is actually too durable, meaning that if any of it fails and starts separating from the frame it won’t flake off and expose the steel underneath, instead it will form a pocket for water to sit in
Nice job. I'm planning to do the same soon
Good luck!
I have a 2009 4Runner, and I want to fully redo the frame and metal parts.
My concern is the inside of the frame. Since this cannot be seen, nor can I clean it out properly, Im not sure how to do this so I can spray it.
Because from what Im aware, you need to clean off the rust inside before applying any sprays - because if you don't, then you'll just trap in the moisture even more, rusting it out faster.
You don’t need to clean the inside if you apply an oil product like Fluid Film or NH oil undercoating. An oil will soak into the crevices and irregularities and prevent water from accumulating
Wow glad I live in Florida not a speck of rust on my 98 wrangler.
Must be nice!
Nice work! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Your jeep Verison of Rust is NOT Michigan's Jeep Version of Rust.... we would be Happy to see what your Vechicle is Like. I Just HOPE all these Jeeps keep getting worked on, and cleaned, and Improved, and Protected by their owners... stay safe on the trails! Help who you can.
God Bless!
I hear you, this jeep would actually be considered “rust free” where I live too. Most in my area need major frame repair or frame replacement
09:50 yes don't use the paper ones, I did when sanding rust and I breathed a lot in. Felt shitty for days lol. Use a quality sealing respirator
I also learned the hard way LOL
3M P100. $20. Your lungs are worth it.
Wow man. Great job. All that rust makes me sick! I live in Colorado and have a little Offroad trailer that I’m going to clean up and I thought the rust was bad on it. You did a great job in this
Do your vehicles have any rust
@@DJR5280 not like this! Just little bit from the winter salt. But here it doesn’t stay snowy all winter, so it will snow and then get warm so I always spray everything off real good after it warms up after a snow
@@Colorado4x4 I actually live in Broomfield. I was just curious if your vehicle has rust. My Tahoe has some frame rust and it's annoying me. Just surface and easily cleanable but still. Not used to seeing a lot of rust here
@@DJR5280 oh cool. We live in Caste Rock. How old is the Tahoe? I haven’t seen too much rust on my vehicles here. Just a little bit of surface rust but I always wash the car after every snow storm once it dries up to get the chemical off of it.
So you did not apply an etch and metal prep before painting?
I applied etching primer then sprayed the black paint over the etching primer
What products did you use? Rust converter? Primer? Topcoat?
Rustoleum self etching primer and rustoleum gloss enamel. The price of these pants has more than doubled in the past few years so if i were to paint it again I’d look into using Eastwood products instead
You mentioned you got the paint at Walmart. Can you provide the brand name and if you recommend using it again? How is the frame holding up? Cant wait for the next video!
Its Rustoleum "Professional" enamel, I use it on most of my projects. It works great for the price. Frame is holding up well! Hopefully more videos coming over the winter
I’m doing that too but I’ll do epoxy primer and hit it with 2 k filler primer after 24 hrs of spraying epoxy no need to sand but I’ll sand the filler primer and then paint
Good plan!
Looks great. What paint/primer do you use on the exterior of the frame.
Rustoleum "Professional" spray paint off the shelf from Walmart.
@@dironaa has any rust came back through? Also check out KBS cavity wax for doing the inside of the frame.
Va
@@dironaa did any rust come back yet?
Looks amazing man nice work 👍
Thanks 👍
Good job! Was expecting how you proceeded with the tasks rather than showing us a pre and post images!
Thanks for watching!
Never knew a tjs sway bar was mounted on the frame behind the bumper on the top side like that. And was that a brake line running parallel with it!? Sorry i own an xj and a wagoneer and would like to buy a tj like this one eventually.
Thanks for making this video. I just picked up a 04 TJ that I want to do some rust removal/preventative work on. I've never done anything like this before so your video was very helpful. If you do anymore I'd appreciate your recommendations on rust preventative products. I'll probably do some more research but may just end up going w/eastwood products.
Eastwood seems to make good products but they’re pricey. Speaking from experience I do not recommend their internal frame coating unless you don’t plan on driving your jeep in the rain/snow ever again. Without removing the frame and having it chemical dipped there is no way to properly prep the inside surface, which means the paint won’t stick properly or uniformly. This will result in some parts of the paint job starting to lift, creating pockets that hold moisture and rust out your frame even faster than in had done no painting. In short my recommendation is to prime (preferably etching primer) and paint the outside of the frame then coat the inside with fluid film. If you live in an area where road salt is used and don’t want to paint the frame again is also use fluid film on the outside after painting, but let the paint cut for a few months before coating with fluid film. Also make sure you drill some drain holes in that frame!
Good video! I've done the same thing on some vehicles, and have done some full frame-off jobs (which is a lot more work), and I must say that in most cases what you have done is more than sufficient.
Thanks! Fluid Film works incredibly well on our salted roads up north.
Change the torx to stainless steel hex and give em a light coat of neversieze before reinstalling.
Good tip
Thoughts on POR15 for frame preservation?
You are right: the gloss paints do have more resin than flat and matte paints
Makes sense!
Was keen to see the rust removal and painting haha, but turned out great!
Thanks!
Just did this to 2 of my tjs Jeeps aren’t meant to be show vehicles just wanted it to be protected from rust
That’s the goal!
Torx on an off road utility vehicle is just a bonehead move.
If I took one out, I'd replace it with a hex head for future ease of access.
Agreed
is there a specific spray paint you use that you've noticed works better with preventing rust from coming back?
Fluid Film is the best coating to prevent rust. If you live somewhere with road salt I'd clean up the frame with a wire wheel, coat with Rustoleum etching primer and black enamel, then top coat with fluid film after the paint has cured for a while.
So is this video meant to be instructional or simply entertainment, as part of your series?
How has it held up??? Need to know!
There ware a few small spots that I didn’t prep well enough that eventually needed touchup, but overall it’s held up very well
Awesome video great narration! Subbed!
Thanks and welcome!
Those brake drums come have done with a clean while you had the wheels off
Rather than paint the drums I choose to replace the whole axle LOL. Video coming soon...
I’m trying to do a similar build. I recently got a killer deal on a 98 TJ 4.0. It’s already has a 3” lift. Right now my plan is to up grade steering and axles. I’m really curious what the exhaust leak you mentioned in a previous video ended up being (if you fixed it). I have an exhaust leak that seems to be coming from the same place but only hear it when the engine is warm and can’t seem to figure for sure if that’s where it’s coming from.
Nice! Haven't fully diagnosed the exhaust leak on this Jeep yet, but it sounds awfully similar to a cracked exhaust manifold I had on a previous Jeep.
Dirona
? if doing this to a stock TJ, is there a way to temporarily lift the body from the frame, or would a body lift need to be installed and then removed after the paint dries? Thanks in advance
If you watch the video I did on installing the body lift, I don't see why you couldn't temporaryily do something similar with a few small blocks of wood (2x4 maybe) just while you're prepping and painting. But that's just a thought, proceed at your own risk
would sandblasting be better to remove the rust?
Yes, but the downside is that you may unintentionally blast things other than the frame and remove the factory corrosion protection from the bottom of the body or other components
Did you spray or brush? I'm looking at brushing as you can get into so many more tighter areas and Im not worried about the finish looking super smooth
Sprayed with an aerosol can, gives better coverage in hard to reach areas
@@dironaa Guess Im gonna have to buy some equipment, bought an expensive can or POR 15
what spray paint did you use? does it matter what kind or what base it is
I used rustoleum “professional” enamel over rustoleum self etching primer, only because of the price point and ease of availability at the time. The price of rustoleum has almost tripled in the last 3 years so I’d probably look at buying Eastwood paint instead at this point. Some Eastwood paints aren’t compatible with self etching primer, but if compatible that’s what I prefer to use.
Excellent video.
Thanks!
Really helpful! I’m about to undertake this project for my LJ. Thanks so much for the details and the video!
My pleasure. Good luck!
I wanted to see the needle tool ! ! !
Please describe what the Fluid Film does in more detail?
It coats the steel with a thin layer of 'oil' that prevents oxidation (i.e. rust). Its a self-healing coating that will creep to nearly fully cover any steel you apply it to. It does need periodic reapplication (yearly or every other year typically)
What is the best paint to use for this kind of job? doing it this weekend
I was wondering the same thing
Not sure what the best is but I usually use Rustoleum brand self etching primer and gloss black paint.
Excellent video. I have an 02 TJ that needs some frame work. No factory drain holes. What size drain holes did you drill? How did you flush the dirt and rust scale from the frame interior? Thanks for your help!
I taped a section of garden hose to the end of a shop vac hose to suck everything out. Here’s a video showing drain holes:
ruclips.net/video/S-yiVPdV7pk/видео.html
Finally have to sell my 91 yj, it rusted from the inside of the frame.
Dont know how you could design a vehicle without any drain holes in he frame...
Same thing just happened to my 95... found a 1990 islander with no rust and a 5 speed swap.
Should have used por 15 instead of spray paint ,then just fluid film it before each winter
I haven’t been too impressed with por15, used it many years ago and it failed (rusted through) less than 10 years after application despite it being advertised as a permanent solution. Much more labor intensive to remove and refinish the por15 after it fails than to refinish paint after it fails. But that was only one experience
@@dironaa por 15 isn't a one and done. I do a quick touch up each year before winter. Por 15 actually has a chemical reaction where paint is just a cover up
@Bryan - So, sand then por 15 then fluid film plus before winter touch up with fluid film? I'm trying to find the best way to stop rust on my 95 Wrangler.
@@stephaniedontask769 yes,do a light sanding,clean, then apply por 15. Wait a week then get it sprayed with fluid film👍
Thanks for sharing. Appreciate the input on the internal frame as well. Curious how you clean the wand from the internal 360 sprayer?
Thanks for watching. I put the wand on a can of brake cleaner and give it a quick squirt to clear out the fluid film
3:45 - Notice the "A" parking sticker from the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco? That jeep spent some time around salt suspended in fog! There's also a good chance it was taken up to Tahoe in the winters too. May I ask where you acquired it?
Thanks for he info. Previous owner lived in San Fran for a while before moving to the east coast where I bought it from her
Can’t decide between doing this or waiting to do frame stiffeners and painting it all after on my jeep Cherokee!
Can't hurt to put the stiffeners over clean steel!
@@dironaa it certainly can’t!
Man that frame looks really good
10 years in California, 8 years in the salty north. Can only imagine how nice it would be with all 18 years in California!
Dirona what gloss paint did you use??
Used Rustoleum "Professional" enamel
You want to restore the rust the easy hard to get internal frame your right Eastwood but the easy out side that u can just slap on that will convert your rust back to steel and it will prime and seal is CORROSEAL. For sale amazon or homedepot and all u need is 1qt its gose a really long way then top coat with rustouloem semi or gloss professional tall silver can and it will last forever as long as u wash it clean every now and then.
Will keep that in mind, thanks for the tip!
@@dironaa yup no worries it saved be alot of money on spray cans I did both of my Broncos complete under body and frame including inside seat frame rust and behind the dash the stuff is awesome with only 2qts. Oh and what ever u have left u can use on anything at home thats rusted.
NICE TJ! Many thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I also find it interesting to disassemble something and realize that I'm the first person to see (X) item since the Jeep was built. Makes me giddy. Your vid will be very helpful while I continue to clean my (recently-purchased) '01 TJ and consider the order of operations and options. I'm with you; I'm not building a show TJ. I just want a nice-looking driver that's gonna last. A huge thanks from Ohio, my friend.
Thanks! I hear you...almos a shame to cover things like that up with new paint!
See the Project Farm RUclips videos for a good bedliner paint for bare metal, and using Evaporust from a Harbor Freight store. I buy the Fluid Film spray from a Lowes store. Also see videos about melting vaseline (petroleum jelly).
Thanks for the tips!