I know this is a old video but I could not resist responding. I had this problem about a month or so ago. Research ed for a few weeks and tried a few fixes that other guys had on their trucks but didn't work for me. I finally found what was wrong, its a tiny little brown capacitor on the back of the cluster sitting by itself by the top screw hole just below where you moved that connector. The darn little capacitor was cracked. Replaced it with another little capacitor that I found in my electronic junk box. It now works like a champ. I even moved the connector after i I fixed it trying to make it come on but it wouldn't .Been about 3 weeks now and no problems. I even have a picture of where it is on the back of the cluster. Hope this helps someone in the future.
Thanks for the video pointing us in the right direction. I just re-soldered all of the (same) connector pins going through the circuit board and fixed the problem. Hope this helps others.
Months later, it came back on. Checked F150 forums and resoldered components on the back of the board near the connector. Had to remove and reset all the gauge needles. Fixed for now...
Well I thought it was the brake switch, but after watching this, you were right on the money. It's relieving knowing what it is now. I'm not super worried because my truck is used for hunting and fishing, not my daily driver. There has to be a fix besides getting a new cluster. Thanks for the vid.
Just want to say thanks for that video. After hours trying to find the break light issue ... That fixed my problem. Thanks for taking the time to post . Thanks again.
Thank you for the info, this was my exact problem, I used dialectic grease on the connections, plugged the harness in and out several times and it has fixed it for now!
I had the same problem on my 2006 F150. In my case I slide a 5/16 inch thick wooden shim in next to the plug. Now the light works perfectly. Many thanks.
great video !!! I also have an 05 f150 and the p brake was on , after watchin this video and fidgeting with the circuits like so it went off for good thank you!!
Ford F150 XLT 5.4 Triton Dash Board Clusters.. There are 3 part numbers for your trucks, be careful when you order them off of EBAY. None of them are the same. Only one of the three part numbers will work with your vehicle. You can find out by asking your local Ford Dealers parts counter by giving them the last 8 digits of your VIN number, then 8 out of 10 times they will be able to give you the correct part number, if not you will have to remove your cluster and get the part number off of the back panel before you order.. The part numbers are all the same except the last two digits. Mine was ( AN ) yours may be different. But get the correct part number before you order one that say it will work on your truck.
I recently got a F150 2007 the light will not go off, fluid was ok, parking switch ok. I researched an Yourtube video where they show a connector behind the instruments panel, that when you push it back or forth the light goes off! Apparently this seems to be a issue with older trucks, where the instruments surface mounts components loose connection. I resolder the connector and the surface mount resistors right under and that fix my issue. you need to remove the Iddels to acces circuit board to resorer. Need a 7 min socket, T15 Torxs, Solder Station Fine tip, Solder and Super Glue to complete repair approximately time is 1 hr.tops
Thanks a Ton for posting! You saved me a great deal of time and money!! I simply shoved a scrap piece of plastic between the connector and the instrument cluster and its fixed (for now?) !! I have fixed several Large screen TVs by heating the circuit boards up with a heat gun until the solder became liquid again... perhaps I'll try fixing this board the same way should it fail again.
I used your video to trouble shoot the brake warning light problem that I had on my 2008 Ford F150. It was a bad solder connection on the circuit board. I tried the quick fix of jamming a chunk of cardboard next to the jack, and the light went out. After I re-assembled the dash, the light came back on so I opened up everything again and removed the cluster to access the circuit board. I re-soldered the first 6 pins on the board, both top and bottom. Now the warning light stays off. Thanks for your help.
Most of the time it's a cold / bad solder joint at the cluster connector or one of the components lifted. Ford forums have great pictures mapping. Nothing a heat gun can't fix.
Worked for me. It was the wires, I needed to push them back about 1/4". I used a zip tie to permanently pull the wiring towards the windshield. Problem solved.
Take those two wire harnesses loose and blow them out with compressed air. Dust accumulates in the connectors. The computer operates on mili amps. Dust will block the minute flow of electricity and cause problems. A lot of the problems on these newer vehicles are caused by dust in the electrical connectors.
Hey, first try to play around with the cable just where it connects to the release lever. In my case the wire's loose or has gotten stretched over time so It solves the problem until the next pedal press. I use the brake once in a blue moon though..
I have the same issue, I watched the video, I removed the cluster and resoldered all the pins on the circuit board but it didn't work. guess I'll look for a new on. by chance did you have to flash the one you got off of eBay. thanks
Sorry for the late response. No I didn't have the one that I bought off eBay flashed. I still have intentions of fixing my old one, just gotta find some time. Thanks for watching!
Matt Steele double check the rest. Low brake fluid and the gray switch for the parking brake. It is cheap enough to just replace that switch and make sure the parking brake release lever make a good contact with that switch.
Same except thing in my 06 f150.. would do the first fix, shim first time lasted month, 2nd plastic ties, again lasted about 2 - 21/2 month, light right back... Dealer is telling me it needs a new cluster now to fix the issue !!!....
Thanks for watching the video. I ended up buying a used instrument cluster off of eBay. When I get the time, I do plan on soldering the old one and re-installing it. Thanks again!
I have an o6 my light comes on then off sometime i kicked the E brake down and up nothing then it goes out i'm going to give the dash a smash and see if it goes out problem solved i don'tthink u have to change the whole brake reservoir for the sender. don't even bring up the plug deal on the 5.4 $ 850 4 a tune up
I know this is a old video but I could not resist responding. I had this problem about a month or so ago. Research ed for a few weeks and tried a few fixes that other guys had on their trucks but didn't work for me. I finally found what was wrong, its a tiny little brown capacitor on the back of the cluster sitting by itself by the top screw hole just below where you moved that connector. The darn little capacitor was cracked. Replaced it with another little capacitor that I found in my electronic junk box. It now works like a champ. I even moved the connector after i
I fixed it trying to make it come on but it wouldn't .Been about 3 weeks now and no problems. I even have a picture of where it is on the back of the cluster. Hope this helps someone in the future.
I’d like to try this
Thanks for the video pointing us in the right direction. I just re-soldered all of the (same) connector pins going through the circuit board and fixed the problem. Hope this helps others.
Months later, it came back on. Checked F150 forums and resoldered components on the back of the board near the connector. Had to remove and reset all the gauge needles. Fixed for now...
2005 f150 4X4 Thanks for the vid I have same problem.
Hillbilly fix. I jammed a flat stone in there that I found in my parking spot.
Well I thought it was the brake switch, but after watching this, you were right on the money. It's relieving knowing what it is now. I'm not super worried because my truck is used for hunting and fishing, not my daily driver. There has to be a fix besides getting a new cluster. Thanks for the vid.
Just want to say thanks for that video. After hours trying to find the break light issue ... That fixed my problem. Thanks for taking the time to post . Thanks again.
Thank you for the info, this was my exact problem, I used dialectic grease on the connections, plugged the harness in and out several times and it has fixed it for now!
I had the same problem on my 2006 F150. In my case I slide a 5/16 inch thick wooden shim in next to the plug. Now the light works perfectly. Many thanks.
thanks man, I'm a trim Carpenter n I think I'll use the shim method with a dab of silicone caulk on the sides.
great video !!! I also have an 05 f150 and the p brake was on , after watchin this video and fidgeting with the circuits like so it went off for good thank you!!
Ford F150 XLT 5.4 Triton Dash Board Clusters.. There are 3 part numbers for your trucks, be careful when you order them off of EBAY. None of them are the same. Only one of the three part numbers will work with your vehicle. You can find out by asking your local Ford Dealers parts counter by giving them the last 8 digits of your VIN number, then 8 out of 10 times they will be able to give you the correct part number, if not you will have to remove your cluster and get the part number off of the back panel before you order.. The part numbers are all the same except the last two digits. Mine was ( AN ) yours may be different. But get the correct part number before you order one that say it will work on your truck.
Your video was a great help today. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
I recently got a F150 2007
the light will not go off, fluid was ok, parking switch ok.
I researched an Yourtube video where they show a connector behind the instruments panel, that when you push it back or forth the light goes off! Apparently this seems to be a issue with older trucks, where the instruments surface mounts components loose connection.
I resolder the connector and the surface mount resistors right under and that fix my issue.
you need to remove the Iddels to acces circuit board to resorer.
Need a 7 min socket, T15 Torxs, Solder Station Fine tip, Solder and Super Glue to complete repair
approximately time is 1 hr.tops
thank you! after 3hours into this diag...
Your the 2nd vid now so I think I got and easy fix I hope . Thanks man 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks you just saved me a lot of time- my truck has this exact same problem.
Thanks a Ton for posting! You saved me a great deal of time and money!! I simply shoved a scrap piece of plastic between the connector and the instrument cluster and its fixed (for now?) !!
I have fixed several Large screen TVs by heating the circuit boards up with a heat gun until the solder became liquid again... perhaps I'll try fixing this board the same way should it fail again.
Thanks for the video. This saved me a ton of diag time.
I used your video to trouble shoot the brake warning light problem that I had on my 2008 Ford F150. It was a bad solder connection on the circuit board. I tried the quick fix of jamming a chunk of cardboard next to the jack, and the light went out. After I re-assembled the dash, the light came back on so I opened up everything again and removed the cluster to access the circuit board. I re-soldered the first 6 pins on the board, both top and bottom. Now the warning light stays off. Thanks for your help.
Thank you so much solder thebpin number 1 and go great
Most of the time it's a cold / bad solder joint at the cluster connector or one of the components lifted. Ford forums have great pictures mapping. Nothing a heat gun can't fix.
Can you post the link to the specific forum with mapping pics please?
Worked for me. It was the wires, I needed to push them back about 1/4". I used a zip tie to permanently pull the wiring towards the windshield. Problem solved.
You're a straight G. Thanks man.
Take those two wire harnesses loose and blow them out with compressed air. Dust accumulates in the connectors. The computer operates on mili amps. Dust will block the minute flow of electricity and cause problems. A lot of the problems on these newer vehicles are caused by dust in the electrical connectors.
Hey, first try to play around with the cable just where it connects to the release lever. In my case the wire's loose or has gotten stretched over time so It solves the problem until the next pedal press. I use the brake once in a blue moon though..
Excellent video helpful
Thanks for video have the same problem for a 2006 f150. Will let the person who fixes this for me a heads up.
Thanks! ...very helpful
The question is what makes it go out on all of these trucks
Fire bird. Where can I find a resister?
I have the same issue, I watched the video, I removed the cluster and resoldered all the pins on the circuit board but it didn't work. guess I'll look for a new on. by chance did you have to flash the one you got off of eBay. thanks
Sorry for the late response. No I didn't have the one that I bought off eBay flashed. I still have intentions of fixing my old one, just gotta find some time. Thanks for watching!
Matt Steele double check the rest. Low brake fluid and the gray switch for the parking brake. It is cheap enough to just replace that switch and make sure the parking brake release lever make a good contact with that switch.
Same except thing in my 06 f150.. would do the first fix, shim first time lasted month, 2nd plastic ties, again lasted about 2 - 21/2 month, light right back... Dealer is telling me it needs a new cluster now to fix the issue !!!....
Thanks hope you film the soldering portion!!
Thanks for watching the video. I ended up buying a used instrument cluster off of eBay. When I get the time, I do plan on soldering the old one and re-installing it. Thanks again!
you solder this thing yet?
thank you the same thing happened to me my odometer light would also flicker same issue
My parking break came on yesterday. I just ran through the same diagnostic as you.... I think I am having the same issue.
Oh, and I am driving a 2005 Ford F150 STX with 155,000 miles
2 zip ties and never came back! I used E brake alot because I park on a little hill area where I have to put it N, E brake, full stop then P.
What are the prices for these cluster things
Mine the same, must be a defect, bummer people can't build things right....
I work in a shop I had a 06 come in today with the same issue. nice find my friend . please let me know what the fix is
Try this video ruclips.net/video/RoIPWOYrL98/видео.html
I have an o6 my light comes on then off sometime i kicked the E brake down and up nothing then it goes out i'm going to give the dash a smash and see if it goes out problem solved i don'tthink u have to change the whole brake reservoir for the sender. don't even bring up the plug deal on the 5.4 $ 850 4 a tune up
Placing a small piece of electrical tape over the lite is the quickest fix and only costs a penny or 2.🤓😆😆😃
nice 👍
common
This video fixed my brake light problem ruclips.net/video/RoIPWOYrL98/видео.html
Permanent fix ruclips.net/video/RoIPWOYrL98/видео.html