Maybe I'm dense but I don't see what enabling ironing will do to help on this particular print? There's really no flat surfaces where it can do its thing?
For super gluing the magnets I use a flat piece of iron where I stick the magnet and then push it into the glue. I was tired to get my fingers dirty 😂. Hope it works for you
I LOVE my Neptune 3 Pro. Only minor flaw is no Klipper. Not a huge loss for me because I've got a newer retired Android phone running Octa4a that will remote control and monitor the printer if needed. I work 13 hour shifts and the only time I use Octa4a is when the print will still be printing long after I get to the office. I can say that I need to try something like this Wolverine mask. Mainly, I want to do something like this just to see if my printer is really as calibrated as I think it is. I haven't done really large and or long prints yet.
I will use painters tape and stick the magnets to the tape then Into the holes. I have a magnetic rod that I have marked on one end to make sure I use the negative on the other piece that is being connected
@UncleJessy awsome, I can make a tiktok of it later and tag you in it so you see exactly what I'm talking about. Sometimes what I think and what I type are 2 wildly different things lol
For the glue, use thinner glue. With the super thin glue, you put the items together, then put a drop of glue where they join. Capillary action will draw the glue into the seam. No fuss and it dries almost instantly.
My poor 4 Pro had a bad injection molded part in the extruder assemble and has been out until ELEGOO can send a replacement. My regular 4 works super well though!
Just saw a video of another guy having layer shifts at the same height for the same print twice. Turned out one object was right on the edge of the print area, causing the print head to go against the beam. No, the Slicer didn't warn him. Since it seems to be at the widest part (that's where the ears are far away) it might be the same reason.
I use photo polymer resin( the same for resin printers) to hold the magnets in place. Just put the magnet in place, use a Q tip to put the resin over the magnet and spread it a little on the print so the magnet is basically fused in place. Use a UV lamp or flashlight to cure the resin in a few seconds. Way cleaner and stronger than super glue.
Do you think the Elegoo Neptune 3 plus will print the mask whole, or do i absolutely need to get the neptune max to be able to print helmets like this whole?
@@TheDanielAviles the 3 plus or 4 plus can print most helmets just fine. The Wolverine helmet has those big sides which is an issue for most printers. I definitely recommend the 3 plus or the 4 plus over the Max. It’s just easier to work with most of the time
For gluing magnets in place, one option is to wrap your fingers in masking/painter's/frog tape. Downside to that can be some of it being stuck to the magnet but a very quick run with some sandpaper fixes that. The other option is to use some Vaseline or similar on your fingers before applying the glue. The downside with this one is obvious...they can go flying from lack of traction lol.
I use medium super glue. A drop in the hole, insert the magnet with a glove, and place a magnet in BACK of the helmet to hold the magnet in place while it dries. spritz it with some activator and youre set!
i usually put the magnet on in the plier's teeth and push the handles so that the magnet is pushed inside, when the magnet goes all the way down don't rise the teeth of the pliers, just slide it and the magnet remains in place. this only works when the holes are close to the edge
what are the print setting you used for these I tried to print a similar helmet with grooves/indents/tiny extrusions but my software put support for every single little one - I use orcaslicer
When i glue in magnets i put some super glue on a junk chunk of plastic and then put each magnet on a small aw (any tiny metal rod work) an dip each magnet in the glue ive dripped on the junk plastic then insert them into the hole an carefully drag off the metal rod so the magnet doesn't pop out after the rod.
Yeah... I had trouble with Elegoo's filament too... I had to run it in my Ankermake M5 at 1x speed in order for it to print. It jammed my Bambu Lab X1C, my Ender Clones and Tina2s(2022)... Kinda bummed about all that. When I put other filaments back into the printers, they worked out great. But even on the M5, it still warped a fair amount. It looked like ABS with poor heated bed temperatures. So I have to limit the prints to relatively small things...
I place a stack of magnets on the underside of the helmet, and then I add my magnet on the proper side. This way, if you're magnets are strong enough, you can move the magnets on the bottom side, and drag the top magnet into the slot.
Yeah I was originally trying something that sounds something like that but there was so little room for the back to move and I was hoping I could place the back on and have it set it the corresponding magnets that were seated on the other magnet. If any of that made sense haha
Are you finding that one of the Neptune 4 printers is producing higher quality prints relative to the other? I’m trying to determine whether the extra $40 for the pro model is worth it in a non-production (i.e., not running 8-24 hours per day) setting.
Do you think a Saturn 8k would be a good starter resin printer for someone with 2 years of experience with FDM printing and what resin dyes would you recommend using for white/clear resin?
I believe they are launching it soon - also waiting for a link so I can start sharing that. So far has been working amazing for the high speeds with little to no stringing
@@UncleJessy Brilliant. Based off this video alone I just impulse-bought the Neptune 4 pro so it'll be nice to have some extras to play with. You're the coolest enabler I know, Uncle J :)
Id love to see you print something like a shaman skull head or something called a skulldog. Ive seen these with jaws that open and close when you talk.
Aside from print time wouldn’t the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max make a better mask with a .4mm nozzle especially for post processing? I have been trying to decide what 3D printer to get especially if I’m focusing on making cosplay helmets.
I think it is a combination of a really sturdy table that doesn't absorb vibrations and input shaping/resonance tuning. If you are concerned about excessive vibrations, you can try getting a large enough and relatively thick marble, granite or other similar stone board/slab to sit the printer on top of. For me, because my printer is in an enclosure, I'd have to put the stone board/slab under the enclosure and the printer in the enclosure, something I really don't wanna do.
@@matthewjbauer1990 Sturdy table really does help. I ditched the casters for my main recording table & that has helped drastically with wobbling from printing
I have your glue CA glue solution. Have you tried a company called Gluboost. They have a set of guitar repair ca glues. One thick and one thin. The real trick is their CA glue accelerator. It makes their glues dry instantly like any other accelerator, but absolutely clear. It even works on other CA glues and improves their clarity, just not quite as clear. I would highly recommend them.
Always thought those cowels looks really stupid. However the print is fantastic, the time it took is great and the quality looks great, so who am I to judge a mans hobby =)
I've recently bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and dropped klipper in it with an old shitty laptop as host. It's just awesome... Now I'm saving money to buy other Neptune 3 Max (I'm selling my other printers before buying it because in my third world country 470 dollars is the monthly minnimum wage and most of the population earns the minnimum or a little over so it's not cheap for me to do that investment).
@@RoseKindred yea thanks! 👍🏾 thing is… i use cura tree support but it looks far from what title picture is… it creates unnecessary nd heavy wall and eats up material also hard to peel off.. anyway… i think ill look into Prusa’s slicer but thanks anyway. Nevermind… just checked some videos on the topic and its all just some tweeking on the settings..
Then use mini hot glue for magents or E6000. E600 is strong an you need less of it than superglue for the same hold. Hot glue you specifically need high heat Acrylic*** other ‘universal’ hot glues are the reason hot glue doesn’t work for magnets that need to hold. 👍
i want purchase mega 8 k for shoe sole mould making becouse this printer build volume is pafect fpr my product . so can i purchase this printer pleas help me if you GIVE other suggestion pleas tell mi i m from india
The best way I’ve found to avoid magnet glue is to hold like 5-10 magnets and glue just the bottom one. You have to let them sit for a minute or so to pull them out without taking the glued magnet with them but it works and helps ensure correct polarity also
You know, that is a really fantastic and simple approach. Def more time-consuming but the polarity direction is a big one not to mention no sticky fingers
Perhaps you could pass on to the makers of the models... PLEASE include the head size of your helmets so we can scale up more easily. I find that some of Nicco Industries helmets I need to scale to 103 to 105 percent to fit my fat head. If nothing else, let us know what you sized to and we can compare it to what we need. Thanks :-)
"one prop i have never tried to make..." ruclips.net/video/Fkxo8otqHEQ/видео.html this you? in all seriousness, excellent video! a question though! how do you go about choosing the best orientation on masks that have lots of organics? just bought my first 400x400 printer and i really want to go run off and print some excellent props
😂 That is ShadowHawk from Image Comics ;) Orientation all depends on how the heck I can cram the model on the buildplate. I usually try to angle it in a way that will have the least amount of impact to the front / focal point of whatever it is I'm printing
I was getting a feel that after the sponsorship program with Elegoo, it's just been non-stop elegoo related content, even when competing printer comparison would have led to better content, and more questions answered. Idk if it's just me, but that's the feel I've been getting recently.
@@Staryanuke I think he just features their products more because he likes them, as he said they are not restricting him from doing sponsored videos of other printers. That, plus it is probably easier to stay in one ecosystem since he has a farm of Elegoos.
@@RoseKindred A few quick notes. 1, Elegoo has been nothign short of amazing to work with and basically just let me go hog wild with whatever content I want to make 2, There are so many similar new machines out that I either don't have the time or just don't care to try them out. That said, I do have a new P1S & Prusa XL on hand ;)
I enjoy old boys' videos, but he has to dye that eyelash. It's all i can look at it. I get it. Im going a bit grey in my old age, too. Just can't look away from it. I just zone right in on it for some reason. Great videos tho.
Neptunes are straight SHIT for printing helmets. I tried Deadpool eyes 6 times different rotations and it wouldn't print them. Same for wolverine cowl, small edge pieces wouldn't stick, trees got so messed up, tried 4 times. No go. And my porters are dialed on, I can make hueforge pictures on them Butter smooth, smoother than my Bambu. Neptunes are trash for helmets and very fine cosplay stuff.
Maybe I'm dense but I don't see what enabling ironing will do to help on this particular print? There's really no flat surfaces where it can do its thing?
I printed this the other day on my P1P and man it may be my favorite printed helmet. I like the tip for making it less snug. I'm going to do that.
how much time to print on bambu ?
Yeah just go easy with the heat gun a little at a time. I also made sure to install the magnets first so everything was in alignment
For super gluing the magnets I use a flat piece of iron where I stick the magnet and then push it into the glue. I was tired to get my fingers dirty 😂. Hope it works for you
Looks like I need to run out and get a small iron rod ;)
Neodymium magnets loose magnetism when heated up. Gluing is the safest option in my experience.
The print turned out nice. Bummer you had so much trouble with that line.
Those supports are wild.
Yeah but made for some good video content ;) and yeah those supports save so much on material and print times
I LOVE my Neptune 3 Pro. Only minor flaw is no Klipper. Not a huge loss for me because I've got a newer retired Android phone running Octa4a that will remote control and monitor the printer if needed. I work 13 hour shifts and the only time I use Octa4a is when the print will still be printing long after I get to the office. I can say that I need to try something like this Wolverine mask. Mainly, I want to do something like this just to see if my printer is really as calibrated as I think it is. I haven't done really large and or long prints yet.
I have seen some people mod their N3P with klipper & I've been debating on trying to attempt it myself
Speed matters. Going forward.. Speed matters. Great video and awesome masks!
Gotta go fast... but also print well ;)
@@UncleJessy absolutely. The speed component is here to stay. Its only going to get better here on out!
Those prints go hard!!!!!
The myth / the legend
I will use painters tape and stick the magnets to the tape then Into the holes. I have a magnetic rod that I have marked on one end to make sure I use the negative on the other piece that is being connected
Okay, now I like that process and will be testing that out!
@UncleJessy awsome, I can make a tiktok of it later and tag you in it so you see exactly what I'm talking about. Sometimes what I think and what I type are 2 wildly different things lol
For the glue, use thinner glue. With the super thin glue, you put the items together, then put a drop of glue where they join. Capillary action will draw the glue into the seam. No fuss and it dries almost instantly.
Nice! Will give that a go next time
My poor 4 Pro had a bad injection molded part in the extruder assemble and has been out until ELEGOO can send a replacement. My regular 4 works super well though!
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Glad to hear they are working on getting it sorted for you.
Just saw a video of another guy having layer shifts at the same height for the same print twice. Turned out one object was right on the edge of the print area, causing the print head to go against the beam. No, the Slicer didn't warn him.
Since it seems to be at the widest part (that's where the ears are far away) it might be the same reason.
I use photo polymer resin( the same for resin printers) to hold the magnets in place. Just put the magnet in place, use a Q tip to put the resin over the magnet and spread it a little on the print so the magnet is basically fused in place. Use a UV lamp or flashlight to cure the resin in a few seconds. Way cleaner and stronger than super glue.
Do you think the Elegoo Neptune 3 plus will print the mask whole, or do i absolutely need to get the neptune max to be able to print helmets like this whole?
@@TheDanielAviles the 3 plus or 4 plus can print most helmets just fine. The Wolverine helmet has those big sides which is an issue for most printers. I definitely recommend the 3 plus or the 4 plus over the Max. It’s just easier to work with most of the time
I use plastic tweezers to place magnets into slots. Maybe you could try it out sometime!
For gluing magnets in place, one option is to wrap your fingers in masking/painter's/frog tape. Downside to that can be some of it being stuck to the magnet but a very quick run with some sandpaper fixes that. The other option is to use some Vaseline or similar on your fingers before applying the glue. The downside with this one is obvious...they can go flying from lack of traction lol.
Which video of jesse's talks about the tree supports?
I use medium super glue. A drop in the hole, insert the magnet with a glove, and place a magnet in BACK of the helmet to hold the magnet in place while it dries. spritz it with some activator and youre set!
i usually put the magnet on in the plier's teeth and push the handles so that the magnet is pushed inside, when the magnet goes all the way down don't rise the teeth of the pliers, just slide it and the magnet remains in place. this only works when the holes are close to the edge
Why do you enable ironing? Isn't it just useful for flat surfaces?
what are the print setting you used for these I tried to print a similar helmet with grooves/indents/tiny extrusions but my software put support for every single little one - I use orcaslicer
When i glue in magnets i put some super glue on a junk chunk of plastic and then put each magnet on a small aw (any tiny metal rod work) an dip each magnet in the glue ive dripped on the junk plastic then insert them into the hole an carefully drag off the metal rod so the magnet doesn't pop out after the rod.
Yeah... I had trouble with Elegoo's filament too... I had to run it in my Ankermake M5 at 1x speed in order for it to print. It jammed my Bambu Lab X1C, my Ender Clones and Tina2s(2022)... Kinda bummed about all that. When I put other filaments back into the printers, they worked out great.
But even on the M5, it still warped a fair amount. It looked like ABS with poor heated bed temperatures. So I have to limit the prints to relatively small things...
When is the paint video coming! Looking forward to that one!
Hopefully later this week! Working on the seams today/tomorrow
I place a stack of magnets on the underside of the helmet, and then I add my magnet on the proper side. This way, if you're magnets are strong enough, you can move the magnets on the bottom side, and drag the top magnet into the slot.
Yeah I was originally trying something that sounds something like that but there was so little room for the back to move and I was hoping I could place the back on and have it set it the corresponding magnets that were seated on the other magnet. If any of that made sense haha
How do you switch the slicer for the printer
This is incredible, but there is no way I could get my N4 pro to print with this quality at 250mm/s! Any chance you can share your PrusaSlicer files?
I use a flathead screw driver, put the magnet on the tip, put the glue on the model, push the magnet into the glue
I can’t find the rapid pla on Elegoos website. Is it not for sale yet?
Are you finding that one of the Neptune 4 printers is producing higher quality prints relative to the other? I’m trying to determine whether the extra $40 for the pro model is worth it in a non-production (i.e., not running 8-24 hours per day) setting.
Can you tape a magnet on the outside of the print, drip some glue in the socket, and plop the magnet so they hold onto each other until they dry?
Do you think a Saturn 8k would be a good starter resin printer for someone with 2 years of experience with FDM printing and what resin dyes would you recommend using for white/clear resin?
What’s ur go to 3D printer
Hey there. I just took a look around for that rapid filament you used and I can't find any mention of it. Is it available?
I believe they are launching it soon - also waiting for a link so I can start sharing that. So far has been working amazing for the high speeds with little to no stringing
@@UncleJessy Brilliant. Based off this video alone I just impulse-bought the Neptune 4 pro so it'll be nice to have some extras to play with. You're the coolest enabler I know, Uncle J :)
Id love to see you print something like a shaman skull head or something called a skulldog. Ive seen these with jaws that open and close when you talk.
Aside from print time wouldn’t the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max make a better mask with a .4mm nozzle especially for post processing? I have been trying to decide what 3D printer to get especially if I’m focusing on making cosplay helmets.
If you have extra magnets, stick them on the backside to pull and hold the glue magnets in place
Nice work!!! I love it!! 😍
Modify the ears and part of the face in mesh mixer or one of the design programs and you’ll have Hawkman mask 👍🏻👍🏻
Oh man I like that idea. Funny how a good number of helmets sort of look like this
It looks like you’re using PrusaSlicer. How did you get the settings for the new Neptune 4?
How do you keep the printer from shaking like nuts
I think it is a combination of a really sturdy table that doesn't absorb vibrations and input shaping/resonance tuning. If you are concerned about excessive vibrations, you can try getting a large enough and relatively thick marble, granite or other similar stone board/slab to sit the printer on top of. For me, because my printer is in an enclosure, I'd have to put the stone board/slab under the enclosure and the printer in the enclosure, something I really don't wanna do.
Thankfully these dont virbate as much as my Ankermakes or Bambu printers
@@matthewjbauer1990 Sturdy table really does help. I ditched the casters for my main recording table & that has helped drastically with wobbling from printing
Where do you get your files?
I'd fill those ear seams with epoxy putty. That stuff's awesome.
Allan wrench = needle nose pliers?
haven't watched the whole video but my layer shift on my neptune 3 max was due to the belt tensioner knob mechanism broke on the inside.
Try cv glue instead of superglue.
It won’t make as much of a mess
Super glue? How about 3D Gloop?
I’ve been loving my Neptune 4. I just would love to have 0.2 nozzles available 😢
One day man will make 3d fdm printers that can print atoms
Printing this on the P1P at 0.12 layer height right now using old standard supports and it’s still as fast as the no center supports on the elegoo 😂
Heck yeah! I just got the P1S and will be throwing down a new Yosh Spidy / Venom Helmet on it ;)
I have your glue CA glue solution. Have you tried a company called Gluboost. They have a set of guitar repair ca glues. One thick and one thin. The real trick is their CA glue accelerator. It makes their glues dry instantly like any other accelerator, but absolutely clear. It even works on other CA glues and improves their clarity, just not quite as clear. I would highly recommend them.
7:10 That isn't an Allen wrench
Always thought those cowels looks really stupid. However the print is fantastic, the time it took is great and the quality looks great, so who am I to judge a mans hobby =)
Yeah a lot of them look silly but this one is rad has hell
I've recently bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and dropped klipper in it with an old shitty laptop as host. It's just awesome... Now I'm saving money to buy other Neptune 3 Max (I'm selling my other printers before buying it because in my third world country 470 dollars is the monthly minnimum wage and most of the population earns the minnimum or a little over so it's not cheap for me to do that investment).
hola me gustó saludo: ⭐⭐⭐
What slicer u use to get those tree supports?
He mentioned Prusa in the video, Cura also has a version of it. They are called either Organic or Tree supports.
@@RoseKindred yea thanks! 👍🏾 thing is… i use cura tree support but it looks far from what title picture is… it creates unnecessary nd heavy wall and eats up material also hard to peel off.. anyway… i think ill look into Prusa’s slicer but thanks anyway.
Nevermind… just checked some videos on the topic and its all just some tweeking on the settings..
@@frankypappa Well, glad you found what you needed at least.
Allen wrench !!!!!!!!!!!!
Gloop!
Then use mini hot glue for magents or E6000. E600 is strong an you need less of it than superglue for the same hold. Hot glue you specifically need high heat Acrylic*** other ‘universal’ hot glues are the reason hot glue doesn’t work for magnets that need to hold. 👍
Could try just wearing cheap plastic gloves for when gluing
Where's Magneto?
i want purchase mega 8 k for shoe sole mould making becouse this printer build volume is pafect fpr my product . so can i purchase this printer pleas help me
if you GIVE other suggestion pleas tell mi
i m from india
Allen wrench is pliers or snips. The more you know
First time watching your channel. Not to be rude or weird but do you have partial white eyelashes or is something wrong with my viewing?
That’s pliers, not a Allen wrench😂
The best way I’ve found to avoid magnet glue is to hold like 5-10 magnets and glue just the bottom one. You have to let them sit for a minute or so to pull them out without taking the glued magnet with them but it works and helps ensure correct polarity also
You know, that is a really fantastic and simple approach. Def more time-consuming but the polarity direction is a big one not to mention no sticky fingers
Perhaps you could pass on to the makers of the models... PLEASE include the head size of your helmets so we can scale up more easily. I find that some of Nicco Industries helmets I need to scale to 103 to 105 percent to fit my fat head. If nothing else, let us know what you sized to and we can compare it to what we need. Thanks :-)
Bed slingers. LOL
Big fan
Why you always running off? Who you scared of? You gotta hide your 3D printing? LOL just a bit of fun. Have a good one!!
"one prop i have never tried to make..."
ruclips.net/video/Fkxo8otqHEQ/видео.html this you?
in all seriousness, excellent video! a question though! how do you go about choosing the best orientation on masks that have lots of organics? just bought my first 400x400 printer and i really want to go run off and print some excellent props
😂 That is ShadowHawk from Image Comics ;) Orientation all depends on how the heck I can cram the model on the buildplate. I usually try to angle it in a way that will have the least amount of impact to the front / focal point of whatever it is I'm printing
However
Would be great to see you test more printers outside of the Elegoo ecosystem. Creality has released some printers to compete with Bambu Labs.
I was getting a feel that after the sponsorship program with Elegoo, it's just been non-stop elegoo related content, even when competing printer comparison would have led to better content, and more questions answered. Idk if it's just me, but that's the feel I've been getting recently.
@@Staryanuke I think he just features their products more because he likes them, as he said they are not restricting him from doing sponsored videos of other printers. That, plus it is probably easier to stay in one ecosystem since he has a farm of Elegoos.
P1S & Prusa XL videos on the way ;) Also still waiting on my K1 Max
@@RoseKindred A few quick notes. 1, Elegoo has been nothign short of amazing to work with and basically just let me go hog wild with whatever content I want to make
2, There are so many similar new machines out that I either don't have the time or just don't care to try them out. That said, I do have a new P1S & Prusa XL on hand ;)
@@UncleJessy Oh no, I get it. I was just relaying some from the previous video you did covering the topic.
I enjoy old boys' videos, but he has to dye that eyelash. It's all i can look at it. I get it. Im going a bit grey in my old age, too. Just can't look away from it. I just zone right in on it for some reason. Great videos tho.
gloves....
Your white eye lashes are very distracting lol
Neptunes are straight SHIT for printing helmets. I tried Deadpool eyes 6 times different rotations and it wouldn't print them. Same for wolverine cowl, small edge pieces wouldn't stick, trees got so messed up, tried 4 times. No go. And my porters are dialed on, I can make hueforge pictures on them Butter smooth, smoother than my Bambu. Neptunes are trash for helmets and very fine cosplay stuff.
Those tree supports are horrid. Every time I try to use them I get nothing but fails. Just end up going back to regular supports.
Wolverine doesn't wear a helmet.