I'd say cold/rainy spring is stressing the trees. The yellow is the same color I get on Honeycrisp on dwarfing rootstock, so I go with B118 or M111 for Honeycrisp's now. The yellowing of leaves on Honeycrisp is a physiological (genetic) condition. Some call it "iron chlorosis" or the inability to take up calcium. Some say it is caused by excessive buildup of carbohydrates in the leaves. I have read that younger Honeycrisps tend to have the condition more than older trees but I find it more serious in dwarf rootstocked HC in my orchard, usually appearing latter in the summer. But since your yellowing is on most trees and new to your orchard, I suspect general weather-related stress. If it goes away in say, a month or so I'd say I'm right. If all your trees die, I'd say I'm wrong.
I planted honey crisp I added pit moss manure fertilizer and had similar yellow leaves for two years and yellow reddish body. I thought it had to much nitrogen than I added simple sand to make it some acidic and yep that did fix it in the same year believe it or not . I’m not sure if sand fixed it or tree got more mature !!! Now is doing well with dark leaves and greenish body .
I planted honey crisp I added pit moss manure fertilizer and had similar yellow leaves for two years and yellow reddish body. I thought it had to much nitrogen than I added simple sand to make it some acidic and yep that did fix it in the same year believe it or not . I’m not sure if sand fixed it or tree got more mature !!! Now is doing well with dark leaves and greenish body .
I've had trees with leaves like that respond to a treatment of Chelated Iron, but never had multiple trees in the orchard needing treatment all at the same time. It's a real head scratcher. Will be following to see what the outcome is.
iron will cause a green up effect no doubt, just like it does on grass. many lawn guys use it to artificially green up there lawn. it would be a bit odd to be actually low in iron. possible yes.
high soil pH, above 7.0, solidifies the iron. In that form, the plant’s roots cannot draw it up. Have you checked the soil ph? Im thinking it’s a lack of iron or manganese.
My guess would be it's the early spring variable weather messing with growth. If you had some serious nutrient deficiency it would have shown up in previous seasons. Keep us updated if growth returns to normal with these exceptionally warm days lately.
Do I see wood ash under some of the trees? If so could have raised the ph. I had the same thing same symptoms on my pawpaws last year. I treated them with iron and epsom salt so im not sure which one cured them.
Yes. I actually built some little fires under some semi dwarfs on a 25 degree night. I wondered how that might affect them, but I’m seeing this on trees that saw no fires or ash.
@@troutfishholland I'm wondering if you're calcium might be too high I've heard it can tie up magnesium or ph might be off. You might want to do some foliage spray of iron and magnesium there's just so many things it could be. I feed my pawpaw's last year with fruit and citrus fertilizer and fish and kelp and the same thing happened to my leaves. The fruit and citrus fertilizer has calcium so I don't know if that contributed to the deficiency or not. By the way I m across the river from you.
my leaves start out not so green. i haven't been giving them enough nitrogen. your tree does look more yellow than mine though. i looked up the recommendation and i am still way under. just starting to get comfortable giving my trees that much nitrogen. using a few cups of organic fert in season is really nothing at all. do the math. i just dumped 5 pounds of organic fert down. it covered the area so thick. i dont think i can get all the nitrogen organically. probably talking 25 pounds for a mature tree. i fertilize a bit in fall/winter after leaf fall which helps. 1/3 cup urea. you are supposed to fertilize them when they wake up in spring but when i have done this i get aphids pretty bad. so as the bloom is ending i start fertilizing them slowly to prevent to much growth and bugs. i should be giving my trees 1 pound of nitrogen when doing the math for age and size. nitrogen is the main thing. if you had a big apple year last season you could be low in other things. i use calcuim nitrate sprays around bloom. really helps. you can get a soil test. its really cheap. try waypoint analytics is like $15 bucks plus shipping. thats what i would recommend if you feel its more than nitrogen.
. the hot and cold weather can be effecting the uptake of nitrogen. depending on the nitrogen source you used temperature plays a huge part in its release rate. sometimes you may need potassium. the grass around the trees really suck it up.
Very much appreciate your thoughts. These trees had a light crop last year with the freeze. But I stopped all nitrogen feedings after fireblight destroyed much of the orchard years ago. But, nitrogen was put back in the soil before a rain right after the video. We will see.
@@troutfishholland without any nitrogen application you are limiting your yield big time. a small amount would be better than nothing at all. i understand being worried about fireblight risk with to much nitrogen. i am as well. try an approach like i have. after the blossoms fall, start given them some. im sure you know the risk for fireblight is with the open blossoms. if you dont have any fireblight currently you should be good. your taking the time to spray and manage your trees correctly. you do a great job. might as well give them the nitrogen they need. you can look for recommendations. i have downloaded a few of the orchard extension guides from a few states next to me. best information you can get. take a small percentage of the recommendation nitrogen rate and see how they respond. you could try it on 1 tree as a test. just make sure to take note on the actual N amount. i do use a ton of organic N and some slow release grass fertilizer. i have been having great luck with small application over a long period. my secrete tip. animal feed is going to be the cheapest organic fert you can get. cock a doodle doo. goodluck. keep us posted.
I'd say cold/rainy spring is stressing the trees.
The yellow is the same color I get on Honeycrisp on dwarfing rootstock, so I go with B118 or M111 for Honeycrisp's now. The yellowing of leaves on Honeycrisp is a physiological (genetic) condition. Some call it "iron chlorosis" or the inability to take up calcium. Some say it is caused by excessive buildup of carbohydrates in the leaves. I have read that younger Honeycrisps tend to have the condition more than older trees but I find it more serious in dwarf rootstocked HC in my orchard, usually appearing latter in the summer. But since your yellowing is on most trees and new to your orchard, I suspect general weather-related stress. If it goes away in say, a month or so I'd say I'm right. If all your trees die, I'd say I'm wrong.
I planted honey crisp I added pit moss manure fertilizer and had similar yellow leaves for two years and yellow reddish body.
I thought it had to much nitrogen than I added simple sand to make it some acidic and yep that did fix it in the same year believe it or not .
I’m not sure if sand fixed it or tree got more mature !!!
Now is doing well with dark leaves and greenish body .
I planted honey crisp I added pit moss manure fertilizer and had similar yellow leaves for two years and yellow reddish body.
I thought it had to much nitrogen than I added simple sand to make it some acidic and yep that did fix it in the same year believe it or not .
I’m not sure if sand fixed it or tree got more mature !!!
Now is doing well with dark leaves and greenish body .
I've had trees with leaves like that respond to a treatment of Chelated Iron, but never had multiple trees in the orchard needing treatment all at the same time. It's a real head scratcher. Will be following to see what the outcome is.
Thanks. I’ll do a follow up.
iron will cause a green up effect no doubt, just like it does on grass. many lawn guys use it to artificially green up there lawn. it would be a bit odd to be actually low in iron. possible yes.
high soil pH, above 7.0, solidifies the iron. In that form, the plant’s roots cannot draw it up. Have you checked the soil ph? Im thinking it’s a lack of iron or manganese.
I haven’t checked pH in a long time. Historically it was 6:5 or so. You could be right.
@@troutfishholland 6-6.5 should be good. Maybe it’s another issue 🤷🏻♂️
In my experience trees are like that from cold rainy springs
That would fit for sure.
Animal feed in which form?
My guess would be it's the early spring variable weather messing with growth. If you had some serious nutrient deficiency it would have shown up in previous seasons. Keep us updated if growth returns to normal with these exceptionally warm days lately.
Thanks Dave. I hope you’re right.
Do I see wood ash under some of the trees? If so could have raised the ph. I had the same thing same symptoms on my pawpaws last year. I treated them with iron and epsom salt so im not sure which one cured them.
Yes. I actually built some little fires under some semi dwarfs on a 25 degree night. I wondered how that might affect them, but I’m seeing this on trees that saw no fires or ash.
@@troutfishholland I'm wondering if you're calcium might be too high I've heard it can tie up magnesium or ph might be off. You might want to do some foliage spray of iron and magnesium there's just so many things it could be. I feed my pawpaw's last year with fruit and citrus fertilizer and fish and kelp and the same thing happened to my leaves. The fruit and citrus fertilizer has calcium so I don't know if that contributed to the deficiency or not. By the way I m across the river from you.
my leaves start out not so green. i haven't been giving them enough nitrogen. your tree does look more yellow than mine though. i looked up the recommendation and i am still way under. just starting to get comfortable giving my trees that much nitrogen. using a few cups of organic fert in season is really nothing at all. do the math. i just dumped 5 pounds of organic fert down. it covered the area so thick. i dont think i can get all the nitrogen organically. probably talking 25 pounds for a mature tree. i fertilize a bit in fall/winter after leaf fall which helps. 1/3 cup urea. you are supposed to fertilize them when they wake up in spring but when i have done this i get aphids pretty bad. so as the bloom is ending i start fertilizing them slowly to prevent to much growth and bugs. i should be giving my trees 1 pound of nitrogen when doing the math for age and size. nitrogen is the main thing. if you had a big apple year last season you could be low in other things. i use calcuim nitrate sprays around bloom. really helps. you can get a soil test. its really cheap. try waypoint analytics is like $15 bucks plus shipping. thats what i would recommend if you feel its more than nitrogen.
. the hot and cold weather can be effecting the uptake of nitrogen. depending on the nitrogen source you used temperature plays a huge part in its release rate. sometimes you may need potassium. the grass around the trees really suck it up.
i haven't seen any diseases personally that looked like that. sorry for long answer. i was typing as i watched your video.
Very much appreciate your thoughts. These trees had a light crop last year with the freeze. But I stopped all nitrogen feedings after fireblight destroyed much of the orchard years ago. But, nitrogen was put back in the soil before a rain right after the video. We will see.
@@troutfishholland without any nitrogen application you are limiting your yield big time. a small amount would be better than nothing at all. i understand being worried about fireblight risk with to much nitrogen. i am as well. try an approach like i have. after the blossoms fall, start given them some. im sure you know the risk for fireblight is with the open blossoms. if you dont have any fireblight currently you should be good. your taking the time to spray and manage your trees correctly. you do a great job. might as well give them the nitrogen they need. you can look for recommendations. i have downloaded a few of the orchard extension guides from a few states next to me. best information you can get. take a small percentage of the recommendation nitrogen rate and see how they respond. you could try it on 1 tree as a test. just make sure to take note on the actual N amount. i do use a ton of organic N and some slow release grass fertilizer. i have been having great luck with small application over a long period. my secrete tip. animal feed is going to be the cheapest organic fert you can get. cock a doodle doo. goodluck. keep us posted.