The Worst Thing You Can Do For Your AR
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2020
- MOBILE USERS: Since the pinned comment doesn't seem to appear for you here it is: Problem solved! A reduced-power buffer spring did the trick and I was able to then reduce gas a little with the gas block. See how smoothly this rifle runs in the second video here: • Fancy Rifle Redemption!
If you've been around the block more than once you may have noticed that asking for advice on the internet can often be more trouble than it's worth, but I'm doing it. This "fancy rifle" build began with an F-1 Firearms receiver set, Aero Precision barrel, and POF DIctator gas block, but just won't run. Lightweight carrier and Odin Works light weight buffer and there's still not enough gas to run the gun.
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Problem solved! A reduced-power buffer spring did the trick and I was able to then reduce gas a little with the gas block. We suspect the gas port is too small on this barrel as we KNOW the block is properly aligned. See the second video here: ruclips.net/video/tjFRl6sO_GY/видео.html See the article to learn about the myths perpetuated in the comments of this video: www.ballisticmag.com/impossible-ar-build-myths/
Graham Baates that’s what I was gonna suggest. Glad you fixed it! (Pew pew)
My 300 blackout pistol was shortstroking, a tubbs flat wire spring cured it.
So the rifle runs reliably now is what you’re saying?
👍👍
A tip I was given before I built my first upper. Seal the gas block to the barrel with blue loctite. Helps with any minor machining imperfections. Glad you got it running! Nice build!
I really thought this video was going to be about why it’s a bad idea to skeletonize your rifle
"Skeletonizing" a battle rifle or hunting rifle is a terrible idea...
That being said...
This is a toy - a fancy build that shoots once in a blue moon to flex on your buddies at the range...
I've got no beef with it.
@@keithridlen7122 yes to all of this comment. Some guns are for fun and some guns are for work.
Like wise… I think it’s ugly as hell.. would never do this to my rifles. But then again mine are set up for SHTF
We've got plenty of those. This is neither my first, nor only rifle. As said, it was an experiment.
Same
Everything about this build triggers me. That thick af spring looks like a cars coil overs lmao.
Lmfao 😂 the 370z of ar-15s
Why would you want to cycle anything but shit-hot reloads?
LOL, I was thinking that was heavier than what I have on my '66 Ford Bronco and my springs are 33% heavier than stock...
Just took a ibuprofen after watching this
Aint no way
It was a simple fix and proved a lot of keyboard gunsmiths wrong.
I had this happen to me on a build. Drove me crazy. Grabbed parts from every rifle and pistol I owned, to have "Light Weight" everything, for cycling issue. In the end, it was the buffer spring. I put in an old very used and relaxed spring.... runs like an old singer. Go figure
Singer made 1911s during WWII.
The buffer was actually what i was going to say I’ve seen a few videos where changing the buffer solved the problem
But it wasn't the buffer
@@GBGuns yeah mine either. It was the spring. Once I added the weak spring I could put everything back that I changed out chasing down the problem. And it ran. Great.
I had same issue, it was my spring. Got a lesser weight rated spring and UT fixed the issue
I don’t know much about guns, but I am an engineer that knows materials and physics... By reducing the mass of the components, you are reducing the inertia (i.e. heavy trucks are hard to stop). The spring has a lb/in rating, and I suspect that your components don’t have enough momentum and inertia to overcome the spring. In theory, if you reduce the force (mass x acceleration) going backward, then you should reduce the force going forward (the spring).
I’m not an engineer and I’ve only built cheap guns but my first thought is that light weight buffer is the problem, I would try replacing with a normal weight buffer and give it a shot
@@MrJag1269 Yeah, as soon as the gas can escape, the light-weight buffer snaps back before it can cycle. It needs more mass for it to have the momentum to fully cycle. The lighter weight he goes, the worse the problem will be. Obviously, if it's too heavy, it won't cycle at all, but too light, and it'll be at the mercy of the spring. There's a sweet spot he'll need to find.
I agree with this post, after the gas block gets the bolt moving, thats it. The gun uses inertia to eject the round without breaking the gun. you might want to try some lighter springs. Also try moving the gas block closer to the breach/longer barrel. Can also try a heavy block to increase inertia(Turn your gas block back down if you any of this!). Maybe drill and ream the gas port on the barrel slightly. Keep trying different stuff, it'll work I know it!
The reciprocating action of a firearm is like a see-saw; It can't work without a balance of forces. Your weapon is weighted too far in the return action to cycle the weapon. I'd start with lighter return springs! All in all, this is a sweet gun but you need a better pin setup. Those auto-escape detents are no good. (only thing I actually saw wrong with the gun.)
I'm no engineer however I agree. You're spring seems to be far to strong for the gas you are working with
I’m not an engineer, therefore I cannot give my opinion on this matter.
6:00 got all these light weight parts but that spring came off 1ton truck
Buffer spring is ridiculous
For real all I’m thinking watching this
I’ve found low mass bolt carries to short stroke. Increase spring tension/ heavier bolt carrier/ or even H2/3 buffer. Low mass allows the bolt to cycle to soon. Not building up enough pressure in your gas key to send a full cycle.. but just my 2 cents
Yup causes too much bolt bounce, i guess in his defense its an 18in barrel w a rifle length gas tube so id expect you dont need much weight in the buffer but than again the dwell time is pretty short.
Yes! that's definitely a experienced perspective! I'd agree
Forget the gas bud. You have an adjustable block so you can find tune from there. Focus on the buffer 1st. I'd get an adjustable buffer and a couple of different springs .....just my opinion. Best of luck bro
No extra friction...it's not enough pressure bc of such low mass. Go the other way with the buffer, go heavier!... again, just MY opinion.
You need a carbine buffer spring. The rifle springs have 41 to 43 coils, and the carbine springs have 37 to 39 coils. The brand-new length of the springs is approximately 12.75″ for the rifle and 10.5″ for the carbine springs.
In car racing we call it coil bind… first thing i thought of when he said carbine length tube
The worst thing you can do to your AR is have it “skeletonized”
Eh I think it's cool for a range toy, but I wouldn't trust it on a gun for home defense or SHTF or whatever.
First thing I thought was how much "gunk" is going to end up in the upper. Might look cool, but, I prefer Bang every time I squeeze.
Only in combat. Recreational shooting should not get sand in it. Unless you drop it
@@dalea1691 You don't think dust and sand doesn't get blown around outside of combat?
Not in here. East coast florida. But yeah, I didn't think out west
That buffer spring is THICC
"Everything fits smoothly." Meanwhile the buffer spring is sticking out 400 meters. 😄
Am I the only one noticing the missing Buffer tube detent? 🤔
Nope, nor the only one who would likely gain from the article
Uhh yea missing it but shouldnt be the reason for short stroking. Unless the bcg is hitting the tube but he clearly showed no wear marks. Or spring binds on the lip of the tube.
The bcg always touch the buffer when mated together.
those "lightning cuts" on the upper receiver are the stupidest things I've ever seen ... talk about a quick way to introduce dust and dirt...
yea, 100% agree!
Yes but no. On this gun not at all. It is a case queen and will never be a hunting rifle or prepper gun. This is like a lambo car. Hardly ever take it out and shoot it but is really cool when you do. I’m sure this isn’t his only gun....
Nope, just take a look at the channel, I have a few
@@jsf11fra yeah that makes sense to own something and not use it ... SMH ...
@@GBGuns no one ever questioned whether it was the ONLY one ... it is a STUPID one, for sure... case queen or not.
I built one for my daughter that was short stroking. I changed the buffer spring to a Damage Industry spring and four years later still no issues.
Yeper that’s what I was thinking 😎
@@edbrenner6930 great idea before you spend your money check out your gas tube could be pinched ie restrictions, springs are cheap enough by the four pack multiple# . best wishes
I love the Damage Industries Enhanced springs. Have them in all my ARs.
@WalterDalton does the lighter spring increase felt recoil?
When I saw that spring, I was like holy shit is that a strut spring? 🤣🤣
i know looks like ar 10
It came off my car’s coil overs 😅
It was a coil over.
Holy skeletonized batman, god what happened to that poor rifle
The gas block being exposed like that was by far the worst thing about this
You've never seen an M16 or M4 eh?
@@GBGuns ehhhhh no, but still.
Well, military rifles going all the way back to the AR 601 have their gas block exposed. Check out the article
@@GBGuns i dont mean to trigger you, your comments seem a tad defensive but is it atleast dimpled? I clearly dont see pins and thats what keeps the m4 fs from getting knocked off center. I bought one of the 5 set screw m4 style ones and (back when they were "ok" fed fed boys) ran a few mags with my bumpstock. No issue sat it done relatively hard and the table at my range and slid over pretty far. I dont think youd have to much of an issue since its clearly a bench gun.
Your recoil spring is to heavy, AND NEVER SKELETONIZE an AR you're just asking for dirt and debris to foul your gun
Not everyone plays war with every rifle they own.
With all that light weight stuff, my brain immediately went to the buffer spring. Lighter parts don't have the momentum to cycle on a mil-spec buffer spring. Glad you got it figured out!
That spring made a HORRENDOUS noise then the charging handle was cycled.
When I heard "carbine length buffer system", then saw how stiff the spring was, then a rifle length gas system, I knew you had too much non-matching stuff going on there. I thought a mid-length gas system might do it with an 18" barrel, but then the comments zeroed in on the spring.
Glad it worked out that easily!
As soon as he said it cycled by hand but was stiff i knew it was the spring
@@micahschaefer8211 my first thought was he probably needs a heavier buffer to carry the momentum all the way through to cycle
@@micahschaefer8211 could have been gas block alignment or undersized porting
That's got to be it. My AR is very soft shooting, cycles like a 10/22 and weighs less than 3 lbs. I use a flat-wound spring from davidtubb.com made for carbine length .300BLK and a Taccom buffer. Whiskey bolt carrier w/ adjustable gas key, Ti pins and 9310 bolt. Dwell time might play a part also. I use a 16" mid length gas from Faxon.
I love the gun community. So many responses with constructive comments to help a fellow gun lover out of a bind. All of you are awesome!
@@michaelb2906 pretty sure it’s sarcasm🤷♂️
@@michaelb2906 everybody is an expert
That was kind of the point of the video: to help show the kinds of advice that is out there. Some of it excellent, other misguided, and then there are those who just want to find a way to criticize and not provide any real help.
@@GBGuns it’s a cool build even if I’d never do it, I’m glad you got it figured out man hoping to see more from ya
There have been dozens of videos since this one. We've got nearly 1,000 in all.
when you make everything lightweight the mass required to push your recoil spring back all the way isn't there. try putting a normal weight buffer and a lighter recoil spring
Also make sure your buffer spring is correct size. Looks like you have a rifle length spring in a carbine buffer tube.
90% sure its spring, (edit) yeah when i saw how far spring came out of tube and how thick the spring was i am now like 98% sure its spring.
Yeah? My buffer tube is all the way into my stock.. it doesn’t come out into the upper receiver like his
That seemed normal to me, but Its worth trying.
I use JP silent captured spring and I removed my buffer tube detent to make it easier to get out (mayb this dumb lower is trying to be cool and not have one at all). Mine runs fine tho it means whenever I take it down, spring will just spill out.
I agree with thomas there should be a stopper that doesn't allow the buffer to come out I bet 100% that's the issue the way it sits now it's getting jammed making it only allow to go half way
@mark you should read the article
@@GBGuns I think it’s either dwell time and/or the buffer spring. If you have a suppressor, try putting that on the rifle. A suppressor should extend the dwell time by letting less pressure escape so quickly.
Another thing could be your gas port may not be lined up 100% correctly where it is being under gassed even if the port is fully open.
Try this buffer spring
www.righttobear.com/RTB-AR15-M4-REDUCED-POWER-Carbine-Buffer-Spring-p/877-rp-y.htm
I was right in my guess that it was the spring! Hype to have my limited AR knowledge validated by the comments. Glad it's fixed!
Honestly, these videos of ‘mistakes’ are very useful! I don’t know much about much but I appreciate the knowledge!!
The dwell time shortance may try to compensate by increasing a gas port and creating a gas backup pressure. Some muzzle devices may to use, such as silencers, large primary chamber muzzle brakes, etc.
Some barrels have gas port holes undersized. I had the short stroke issue and drilled the port out a little bigger. Works fine now.
Definitely the issue.
Check the port size.
Those are my exact thoughts, bravo!
I had to do that to my friends factory Anderson
My thoughts as well
I agree with most of the comments. I've built several PSA 18" rifle length uppers & ran into the same problem. My solution was drilling the gas port a couple of thousands over and using the adjustable gas block to regulate the gas.
Not having that retainer might just be enough to keep it from firing twice. If the spring is riding against the carrier it is reducing the ability of the to travel all the way back.
I'm an engineer for an oil and gas company. Decreasing the diameter of the gas tube will allow better hydraulics. This will increase your pressure in your gas system.
Boing constant too high. Reduce boing constant to increase plink ratio. :-)
Ahh, you speak Grunt....
I’m here for the crayons
Jester , don’t forget the Elmer’s glue to wash them down.
Negative ghost rider, a teaspoon of CLP a day keeps Docs silver BulletDrop away.
Jester , never underestimate good PMCS.
That buffer spring looks pretty tightly wound...
Try a lighter spring weight
@Jussie Crowder Yes, they are spelled the same. Welcome to the English language, now get out.
I agree Spring is too stiff and missing the buffer retainer
@@troydavidson5661 Yeah I was like why is there no retainer strange video
No retainer and lighter spring?
I had some trouble cycling some subsonic rounds, changed out the barrel and brought a low profile gas block further back, everything cycled like a dream. Food for thought
Aside from the stock and the barrel this is why I stick with relatively standard high quality parts, no issues, less expensive and I get the same accuracy as any fancy build
Sometimes going with all of these “upgrades” actually downgrades your rifle.
Until you see this thing run. As stated, this build combination is uncommon, and most manufacturers avoid it because it sits on the fringe of what consumers are willing to understand and work with, but man-o-man is it a smooth shooter! (see pinned comment or video description)
Many upgrades are like that. If the bear is tearing through the front door, I would reach for the old SP-1 that I knew was going to work every time, over the goofey-gun full of holes, and temperamental parts. Guns like that are really cool toys, but they are never going to be a practical tool. It all depends on what you want.
Well, at least you got a dust-cover delete upper. I know a guy that built a skeletonized with the dust cover still there. Really have to question that logic.
I was thinking the same thing. I had issues more with upgraded parts than standard milspec stuff on my build. I do love peoples builds like this one that just go all out for the fun of it! for most of us though, a plain-jane AR will be more gun than we have skills to handle them! Speaking of upgrading, I've also found that some expensive parts for pistols can have terrible side effects and fitment issues. Gives me quite the respect for real, skilled gunsmiths! Anyone can throw together parts, but it's the minor tuning and stoning required that most of us are unaware of or unskilled at performing!
My reaction to seeing the muzzle break - 'What is this, I don't even, who am I supposed to give money so that I can have one too?'
“Fix bayonets!!” Was the first thing that came to my mind😂
It's pointy!
Check out Doublestar AR15 Caymen Flash Hider
It is very pointy and bada$$
I appreciate your brutally honest review/analysis of your own handiwork. I'll give your build a solid A- in the aesthetics department ❤ Thank you for all this good information.
Thank you. This video was actually a bit of a social experiment and the comments used for a couple of articles.
My rifle did that when I first got it together, change your spring in Buffer
There should be a little pin that holds the buffer spring in the tube. It shouldnt always have tension on the bolt.
Exactly and this idiot turned the comments off no wonder it doesn’t work
I don't think you turned the comments off, but you might be accurate on your self assessment.
Some people don't run with a pin capturing the buffer. The guy forgot his name on InRange doesn't fearing it will break off and jam something up
The pin is just to hold the buffer and spring in the tube when you disassemble the rifle. Put the upper and lower together slowly (with the pivot pin already in) you'll notice the bcg will touch the buffer. It should always be pressed against each other, otherwise it'll impact the buffer everytime and damage it.
Imagine putting your fist against the wall (touching it) then push. Vs having your fist 1 cm away then push/ punch then push. Which will hurt more? Cause more damage?
yessir this fella here has the "right" answer. springs, buffers and bcg being of light weights are only an issue if/when the firearm is ovr gassed and the action becomes to violent and fast for reliable operation. if not for the missing spring detent I would suggest filing a form 1 or form 4 and attach an even cooler *break* then you could rest assured knowing that super sexy gucci break you graciously mailed me will forever be takin care of in good hands and going on some amazing adventures 😂
Drill the barrel gas port. Worked for my 20'' 350 legend build.
Yes, I believe he should do this. It would be quite the light show
@Buttbanging Trannyliberal Just used a 5/64 drill bit. should put you around .078 to .081
Are you 100% sure that the gas port lines up with the gas block?
Cheap way to tell is to use a piece of wire or toothpick that's sanded down to barely fit in the hole for the gas port. Put it in & trim flush with the top of the barrel. Cut a shear line part of the way through. Install the gas block & when you turn the barrel upside down, the wire/toothpick should freely move back & forth. Use a cleaning rod to snap it in half & make sure you recover both halves.
If it does, and you still have this problem, you need to drill the hole bigger.
If it doesn't, then the gas block isn't lined up. Loosen the block & wiggle it upside down, untill it drops. Then re-tighten the block. Make sure it still moves freely before using the cleaning rod to remove it.
Yep, adjustable block doesn't do shit without a wide open gas port. A normal gas port is not large enough.
Gas block indexing and brand name gas blocks can save going to extremes.
Testing bcg for leaks, and a dozen other possibilities should be done before jacking with drilling a gas port. Simply because it takes longer to polish the bore afterward than to check parts and indexing.
Doubly, since DIY tubers can’t afford the drill bit to properly do a gas port. Because it does take a very expensive and hard to find bit.
I had the same problem . First look at the mag release . If it's not tighten properly it will fail to feed. . also make sure the gas block holes are perfectly aligned . Pull out the screws then look through the hole ,then you can line it up using a small punch
“Stiff” charger is a real problem I’ve dealt with that and it does what you’re saying the problem is.
Well good thing you fixed it, but if it ever fails again, you could always just use that brake on the front as a bayonet.
You need a lighter buffer spring. It's the primary force that determines the speed the bolt carrier travels at. Bolt weight would be second to that and so on. Friction should be rather small in comparison if everything is sized right and no parts are in the wrong area.
That spring looks like we could use it on a 1 ton truck😂 I’d try that start with all your low hanging fruit
I would add rifle length buffer tube and buffer. A rifle length gas port produces much less gas pressure. Your carbine buffer tube is designed for higher gas pressures so it has a shorter stronger spring. low power ammo also contributes to the problem. I would start out at the higher weight buffer you have and listen when it cycles. You don't want the bolt slamming back hard. You just want it bumping a little before returning to battery. the weight of the buffer helps the bolt with inertia going back and the spring helps it going forward. you'll just have to get the sweet spot with the buffer weight. By cutting down the bolt carrier weight you accentually take away inertia weight going to the buffer. Your just going to have to play with it. A slow motion camera recording the bolt when 1 shot is fired will tell you a lot. Just my option I'm no export.
Yeah I just read the pinned comment, the mass of the bolt carrier and buffer are important to compress the heavy weight spring. If you lighten those you need a lighter spring. Is might sound counter intuitive but it has to do with inertia. More mass moving backwards creates more force. Bad ass build though! Glad you got it fixed!
Check out the results! ruclips.net/video/tjFRl6sO_GY/видео.html
I'm new to AR's and M&P's but, this is the first thing that crossed my mind. Especially, after he noted that he went with the lightest weight buffer and considering he noted it cycled a little stiff and experienced short strokes. Glad you figured it out. Nice build!
Try a flat wire buffer spring. $20 option that may allow it to fully cycle. And where is your buffer detent? Your buffer tube isn't screwed in far enough. It should stop the detent from coming out
You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.
@@twistinprops604 Not capturing the buffer allows excess force on the rear of the bolt. Could be enough to cause a short stroke. But I'm just an old soldier , not an expert like you.
@@gerryetheridge7480 plenty of 2 and 3 gun shooters running guns without buffer detents and springs.
The rifle length gas tube was the same mistake made when the M2 dissipator was conceived. They basically cut down a 21" barrel to 18" and as you explained didn't have enough barrel length after the gas block to create enough pressure to Cycle the bolt reliably. Now add an extra light bcg and spring and you've compounded your problems.
I see you've fixed your issue with an even lighter buffer spring. That's awesome because it shouldn't have cost too much for the final repair.
I was going to say to drill the gas port! Lol. Nice… glad you got her figured out!
I’m not a professional by any means but have built close to a 50 custom AR’s.
Rifle length gas tube rifle length buffer tube an spring.
I ran into a very similar problem in the past . The rifle length buffer spring is a lot softer spring than the carbine spring also the rifle length buffer tube is longer it should an will also be a soft shooter. Or change your barrel to a carbine length barrel probably going to be a lot harder to adjust it way down the handguard but could be a fix for you .
But I’m not a professional i just have a lot of time invested in AR’s builds good luck I hope you get it running looks like a sweet AR
Jeff R. Did you get your guidance? Builder here...
Take two coils off the spring. If it improves, take off two more then add weight to the buffer to smooth out the recoil.
With the short barrel ( and therefore gas tube ) there will be a relatively narrow range of loads with which it will
cycle.
I was thinking the exact same thing! Custom guns require custom modification! If the gas system is dead nuts only thing a guy can try is a complete new bcg or a new adjustable gas block or start cutting the spring
My inexpensive PSA build runs great and is accurate too. Glad to see you got it figured out. Happy shooting.
Glad you figured it out. I was thinking the gas port in the barrel was to small.
I was hoping you’d say spend and absurd amount of money to make sure every bit of dust and grit gets in the important stuff
Typically F1 builds don’t have issues running because although they have big holes in the upper which allows dirt in, the holes also make it easy for dirt to get out.
When I first saw that upper, I was thinking, "You just spent probably over 3,000 for something so unreliable because of them holes on the upper receiver." My one $300 AR probably outshoots this pos.
@@stephensniff lol if that were true wouldn’t high speed sf guys want skeletonized stuff? Yeah it saves weight but to keep a gun running smoothly you want to keep as much grit out as possible. That’s why ar-15s have a dust cover in the first place. Not to mention getting any gear you have caught in all those holes could be a huge problem
@m seriously man i hate gun video window shoppers that have to validate there 300 gun they save up for. "See you jam just as much as me." 🤣
This is literally a video about the most over engineered AR ever. Heavier BCG or lighter spring. Follow the path of resistance...
😂
I'm not a gun smith but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, which makes me an expert. It's the spring.
If it's not the spring, call it a day and hang it over the fireplace.
I knows this is old but before reading comments off the bat I’d say reduced power spring , and rifle length for a rifle length gas system. Make sure the springs got lithium grease all over, and lube the bolt and inside the upper receiver . The sounds of the charging sounds like allot of friction .
I know I'm late to the party, but short strokes are almost always spring related
I was about to say the same thing... too heavy of a spring
That's what I thought, it sounded like it was the only explanation
I was going to say it could be too stiff of a spring and maybe not a good enough seal somewhere around the gas tube
If you’re losing gas that could also cause your bolt to not function properly, right
I was gonna say spring as well, bht can get the same-ish result with an adjustable mid‐link gas chamber.
Y'all had me at the "Train of Consequences" intro. lol
Two things I can think of, 1: the buffer spring is too strong, 2: enlarge the diameter of the the gas port on the barrel and gas block so more gas can vent to the BCG.
That's what I was thinking as well. I'm leaning more towards too small of a gas port or gas block. Despite the adjustable block it will be limited if the gas port on the barrel is too small.
gas port should be fine as is. As its purpose is to unlock the bolt, more or less. Given that he mentions that the bolt pushes back a little, it should be unlocking just fine. I agree on the spring being a possible problem, however i also suspect the munition not being heavy enough. if everything is "as light as possible" he might need to use ammo with more pressure and weight to get it to cycle properly. that and make sure everything is lubed properly as well.
Yep, only thing he can do
I'm sure it's already been said but I'm not about to read all 5,360 comments....Have you drilled your gas port in the barrel to the next size up? I was having the exact same issues with a very similar build, tried all the same things, swapped many parts to isolate the problem. The solution ended up being to use an adjustable gas block (you already have) and drilling the port to the next size up using a jetting bit (so it's very small diameter increase) and then tuning it with the adjustable gas block. Worked like a champ and it now cycles flawlessly.
I’m relatively new to customizing AR platform rifles but I what came into my mind was the buffer spring. I’m glad you got it figured out.
I'm glad you figured it out faster than I did. I had the exact same issue. I did a budget build using a CDNN parts kit, 18" barrel, rifle length gas system, and proceeded to put in an adjustable gas block, lightweight BCG from Trojan Firearms (cannot recommend it highly enough), and then built my own 1oz spring powered deadblow buffer. effectively reducing my reciprocating mass by 1/2. had the same issue, showed it to the gun smith at the shop i worked at, he couldnt figure it out either. I even checked my gas port size, if memory serves it was 0.094in, which i think is the largest AR-15 port size, so I knew it wasnt the problem. I did some reading online, and discovered reduced power buffer springs, and got me a 25% reduced power buffer spring. trip to the range to dial in the gas block adjustment, and she runs like a sewing machine. seems that the issue with dwell time that you recognized, combines with a lack of momentum from the lightweight assembly, and there isnt enough inertia to fully compress the standard buffer spring, which causes the short stroking issue. its counter intuitive until you solve it, then it makes sense.
Mine done the same thing, I had a rifle spring in it, switched to a carbine spring and it worked fine. Rifle spring is longer which will stop the buffer tube from going back enough to cycle weapon.
Right when I saw the spring come out tube I was like BINGO
When I went to light weapons school the instructor said a buffer spring needs to do two things:
Strip a round off the magazine.
Completely lock the bolt.
A well tuned Stoner design will have a nice neat 12 inch pile of ejected brass at your 1 or 2 or 3
1 o clock brass ejection would be over gassed as hell wouldn't it?
@@noluckpureskill9985 yep
That AR looks absolutely ridiculous.
Why do you say that
@@oasisgaming4246 skeleton cut parts are ridiculous, screams "I play too much modern warfare".
@@Succulent_Lmaos It's kinda nifty, I love a standard looking AR but a cool build like this is pretty neat given you're willing to drop the money to set it all up.
@willie N or is it the guys who act like their operators who are the gamers. I've been to two wars and three different training schools as a civilian I know what rifle I'd use if I had to. To assume this is my only firearm is absurd.
haters going to hate cool AR
I just got my first ar platformed rifle in 5.56 1:8 twist in a 16" barrel with carbine length gas tube I got the upper complete from Bear Creek Arsenal and I went and bought a comolete K.E. Arms K.P.-15 Multi- caliber lower for a couple reasons the lower is one solid polymer combining the lower and stock into one single piece getting rid of the weak point between the stock and buffer tube/lower reciever that the adjustable stocks I have seen crack or break in that area. I love this rifle so far and am already looking into getting the 7.62x39mm AK chambered upper but I wished I would have gotten an 18 or 20 inch barrel on this first one but its lockup on the K.P. lower is super tight I had to sand the forward upper lug slightly to fit into the K.P. lower but for my first AR platform rifle I'm happy with this one its definitely accurate with M855 ammo as soon as I can I'm going to grab some primers powder and some v-max or GMX Bullets and start developing loads bit who knows when primers powder and bullets will be avaliable again...i got lucky last week and picked up a box of Hornady 230 gr XTP's for my 45acp SD Loads but they didn't have primers or powders lol
Don't feel too bad, my son-in-law bought a complete Matrix Aerospace AR-10 rifle in 6.5 Creedmore and it wouldn't cycle.
After taking compressed air and blowing down the barrel with an empty shell in the chamber it would barely move with our 250 psi rig. We could see air coming from between the gas block and barrel plus see the carbon fouling was a bit much.
Come to find out after removing the handguard and tugging on the gas tube, it was loose and someone forgot the rollpin.
Even after fixing this issue it was still punching holes thru the primer and thru the sides of the cases that stovebolted.
This rifle was sent back to the dealer in Lake Havasu AZ for repair under it's lifetime warranty three weeks ago and the shitty thing is they've had it for two weeks and haven't even opened the box.....
On a bet, I've literally built a custom Aero Precision 308 from pieces off Gunbroker in those same two weeks, and for less.
At least mine will work.
I dunno, milling holes all the way through your upper is pretty dumb to begin with.
Haha sand dust and dirt go brrrrrrrr in your moving parts
I don't get the novelty of it either. You would think people would have gotten over that idea after the sho-sho magazines back in WW1, but nope, we need to relearn the lesson. Too much light weight extreme in this build. He has removed all the moving mass he can, and the result is no function. Not the first one to do it, and not the last. The AR design needs that mass to operate properly, and reliably.
See the article, I think it'll be eye opening
@@GBGuns Very nice looking rifle. sure a long way form that used first gen SP-1 that caught my eye when I was 18.
I'd drop that upper on a mil-spec lower and vise versa. Try to narrow down the possibilities
Badass AR🤘love the muzzle brake. I'd also say the spring that thing a beast😳
I hope this has been fixed by now but As many people said you need a lighter buffer spring and those 2 rounds that cycled will turn into 30 per mag. Seems like your reciever both upper and lower may also bbn have VERY tight tolerance. Or like you said the risk of your preferred gas system. Sometimes the perfect builds we want just don't work exactly how we want but I'd try the spring first.
See video description
Try a Sprinco Yellow Reduced power spring. Also where is your buffer retainer and spring (that could be the problem)? You can also take off the gas block and see how large the gas port is in the barrel, you might need to make it just a little bit larger.
You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.
I had the same issue with my Triarc 13.9” barrel. I couldn’t cycle any .223. 5.56 I could but not .223.
The gas port size was .065. It was too small to cycle and so I end up using Sprinco yellow spring (20% weaker) and it will cycle anything now. Give your buffer spring a try.
yif you want to use 223 ammo you need a 223 gas block or tube.
Master80059 the gas block has nothing to do with it. Your port size is what matter
@@miguelrojas5792 Absolutely, agree 100%. The gas port should be around .075 (I said AROUND)
I ran into a similar problem with my .300 blackout. At first I thought it was short stroking on shit reloads from LAX ammo because it was jamming after every round. Last shot the bolt would slam forward and I couldn't get it to lock manually. Swapped uppers and the problem went away. So I swapped the buffer spring and bam problem solved. Turned out I had a thicker spring on my .300 black so I bought an aero precision carbine spring and it works reliably now.
I know it's a year old video, but I stumble acrossed it and heard train of consequences as the intro, so I instantly subbed 🤘 lol
Thanks! There are two follow up videos to this one plus an article on BallisticMag.com
I own a custom shop and the first thing I always check for is to make sure the gas key on your BCG is sealed these days the majority of them are not properly sealed and leak gas like a sieve. I've seen improperly sealed bcgs from 80 bucks to 300 bucks.
The fact that coated the upper & lower may have something to do with the fitment of the pins between the upper and lower- you have added material
I think your having problems with the gas hole on the barrel. It may be out of alignment or maybe drilled out too small. I dealt with these same exact problems. Anytime your adjustable gas block is all the way open you should investigate why
I knew it! I took one look at that spring and thought my God that's a heavy spring. 😂
That is a bummer
No it’s not. It’s an abomination.
Cut about an inch off of the spring coils. And keep cutting or find a softer spring.
Might have to do that on a build myself. I have plenty of spare springs.
@@travisholland1021 springs are cheap start cutting.
I had this exact same problem on a build and a flat spring solved it for me.
Actually... the worst thing you can do to your modern AR platform custom rifle is "use it in home defense" because you are *never* getting that fucker back from the police.
try a swapping the lower and upper with a gun you know that runs see which one fails then go from there
yep that's the way to 1/2 the possible ..
Yep, too many unknowns! Start with working parts then swap in your questionable parts one at a time to check which ones work and which ones don't.
How would that change the under gas issue...?
I suspect you are right about the port size. Put the original spring back in and throw a can in it. And don't ever worry about 18" barrel with rifle length gas system. I have a 16"barrel with a rifle gas system. Don't tell me I'm mistaken because I'm not. It worked just fine with a non adjustable block but the point is to suppress it and turn the gas down and not get so much gas in your face.
@Josh Weaver the spring doesn't go into the receiver while the BCG is in place. When in battery, it's still keeping the buffer and spring in the buffer tube and out of the receiver.
If you don't know how guns even work, you shouldn't try to diagnose their problems.
This reminds me of problems you get when trying to soup up things beyond practicality.
Break the working formula and have to develop a totally new one.
Yep, all of a sudden everyone is smarter than Eugene Stoner.
Yes this is what happens when you I have absolutely no idea what you’re doing...
This is like walking through a junkyard and taking pieces off random cars because they look cool and then trying to make a race car out of it
@@s0nnyburnett absolutely take a product that engineers worked on for decades to perfect and then replace all of those products all of those components because they don’t look like you want them to... I don’t necessarily believe in background checks for firearms but I believe there should at least be an IQ test
You should probably not watch the follow up videos, they'll leave you feeling embarrassed
The worst thing you could ever do to your rifle is never using it & never / improperly cleaning & maintaining it!!
This looks like a gun for somebody that likes the fast and furious franchise.
I've never seen one of those movies.
The spring is what i was gonna say yeah runs like a champ now huh
Seems like you've built yourself a really finicky, problematic rifle there. Those pins, those pins, those pins. Damn.
Lmao truth
Yeah that's what I'd suggest is a rifle length buffer setup. That spring is definitely more stout than a rifle length one. That may (or may not) fix the issue. Outside of that idk. I'm not a gunsmith but I bet one could fix it.
Do not be afraid to cut a couple coils off the buffer spring either. I have had to do it with 20" barreled AR-15 build even with the gas block wide open, light spring with light buffer
youre also missing the pin that keeps the buffer where it should be.
thats what i was thinking, thinking maybe the buffer is keeping constant tension on the bolt carrier and the bolt isnt blowing back far enough for the round to be cycled.
Yes
Get rid of that extention piece have the buffer sit in the tube and maybe a lighter spring becausr the gas tube is 3.5 miles long.
You want dirt and sand to clog up your AR action? Easy: just cut a lot of holes in the upper receiver...
I agree. This build was a 'fail' when he chose that ridiculous 'cut out' upper receiver........
I don't think that this is one of those "Zombie Apocalypse" type builds. I suppose this was more of an art project that will sling bullets down a range for fun. I can only imagine the amount of oil/carbon this thing will slog all over the place during an extended session though. lol
I agree, and could looks more ridicule if they put the dust cover
@@_felx1100 Because it's his money (and property) and he can do whatever he wants with it.
I have nearly all Skeletonized uppers and lowers, no dust covers, ever. most are all slick sides. Hell, you can fire these pretty much covered n mud. And very easy to clean. heck I would even have to say these uppers and lowers that have the loads of "holes" perform better over all. Much of the standard gas debris has the chance to get to atmosphere and does not get trapped in the gun, or down the upper or into the buffer. The few ARs that I have that are MilSpec uppers. I have to clean the buffer tube out just as often as the rest of the gun. With my Skeletonized uppers and even in the lowers that I have Skeletonized. I am seeing much mush less "Blow Back" crap. Which really is the main "dirt" problems you find with any malfunction. I guess its a different story if you are in the military, crawling in mud, dirt and sand, every day and firing a few hundred rounds out of that dirty gun. But I would suspect it would be an issue of premature wear then malfunction.
Any how, the spring would be the first item to easily change out, but I do suspect that there is an inclusion in the gas port of the barrel or gas tube restricting gas flow. But thats not so bad if its just a spring change. if you start to get stronger recoils and buffer smack, the thing interrupting the gas flow, just might had been blown out. change the spring back. lol.
I have two of the f1 Uppers, love them. I would like to get the Upper and Lower set. but little more then I like to spend. I am a machinist by education and Sales Engineer by trade. So I do have a few mills and lathes to make my tooling modifications. I do a good deal of lightening on my own equipment.
So, for Cutting holes in ARs I say great idea.... My three gun AR, full 16" barrel, and Full Auto BCG (I used the auto version for the greater mass in the BCG, I feel it helps speed, cycle and on target) but other wise everything has been lightened up. Just a few Oz over 6lbs. Compare that with a 9 or 10lbs. If I were in compositions against you, all day. Im gonna put money on me. lol, I have never been in combat, but I think i would still take my gun over a milspec AR any day. that 3 or 4 lbs really adds up at the end of the day. And me, I dont really care how big you are (im 6'1" 240lbs, so not a little guy). keeping my 6lbs gun on target for extended time. thats the way to go....
this comment might be too late but when you said Rise Armament it got me to remembering the issue i had with my .458 SoCom build. doing a function test after final assembly of the rifle, my BCG wouldn't go into battery. you would think having the anti-walk pin kit installed would mean the RA drop-in trigger assembly wasn't suspect yet backing off the tension screws at the bottom of the trigger housing, the BCG cycled without drag. just another area to consider if anyone else is running a similar set-up.
Interesting issue to have, and certainly something not a lot of folks would think of.
Your question @6:00
Try checking your alignment of your gas tube and block. I made one that was ever so slightly misaligned and had the same problem. You should be shooting fine or overgasing with all that lightweight stuff
Without a video of the action, my first thought is the 'stiffness' of the slide action. It 'sounds' awfully tight. Is it tight enough that the drag results in a timing problem (as you noted). Also, you stated it was a carbine buffer/spring combination. That may be too stiff as well, and the cumulative result of drag and stiff spring slows the bolt down enough that the gas bleeds off before full cycling. I would film that in slo-mo before I touched any hard modifications.
Loosen up your upper to lower fit. If it's too tight it might bind the bolt carrier, especially with the cuts in the recievers, the cuts can take away stiffness.
3:21 in and here is my question to you...
You said you have a carbine buffer system but are running a rifle length gas tube, tells me that the buffer spring is way too stiff to cycle on it's own. Give that a try. Haven't looked in the other comments to see if it has been said, that is just my two cents...
And where is your buffer keeper?
A rifle buffer syste and a carbine buffer system have the same base resistance and same stroke length. If anything his buffer spring was possibly designed for a AR pistol back before they had pig tails and shorter barrels. As he said in the pinned comment it was the buffer spring, and possibly the gas port. But it's unlikely the gas port is the issue. With a short dwell and the lightweight everything moving, its possible the bolt was beginning to move before operating pressure was reached, causing gasses to escape and causing short stroking. It also looks like there's a lot of carbon on and around that gas block, could be a gas leak. Many people don't install the buffer detent for ease of field stripping, or they simply don't desire to have one. It's not your rifle.
Beat me to it. Had the same problem with a buddy's mid length tube and a pistol buffer. Dropped my cap'd buffer in, and it ran like a thoroughbred.
with the coin shortage we can no longer give our two cents worth.
YOU WERE RIGHT
Drill your gas port on the barrel one size bigger. Very common problem with 18 inch barrel with rifle length gas system
The solution was much simpler, but thank you.
I think a rifle length tube and or lighter spring would probably do the trick. You could cut 3 coils off of that spring and that might do the trick. I actually cut my buffer spring down a few coils because of the same issues and my problem was instantly resolved.