I've tried both types of fluid film. I did my entire truck underbody in black. I'd avoid the black unless you just want to hide a bunch of rust you already have. The normal fluid film doesn't look bad, and the black will end up obscuring any oil leaks on the vehicle. It looks identical to black grease, makes it more unpleasant to work on the vehicle. Both will end up with road dirt and grime on them anyway, and with the black you'll just have dust and grime stuck to it in no time. The black tends to cost a few dollars more per gallon, though it's a small difference. On a black framed vehicle, I found the black was actually harder to see the thickness and coverage compared to the normal vanilla / honey colored fluid film. If you want to remove overspray, or in your case get it off the side of the truck, a high pH car-specific spray will do wonders. One cheap product I like is called "Dark Fury" by Superior Products. I get a gallon of it at OReillys for $26 USD. It dilutes 4:1. Pretreat with that, allow it to saponify the fluid film, gentle wiping with a microfiber you will toss. Also can use Road Warrior by Superior Products in maybe a 10:1. It's mean to remove serious road grime but is clearcoat and paint finish safe. Be gentle about removing that fluid film because it will have embedded dirt so any hard abrasion will turn that goo into sandpaper. Before spraying my truck, I drape the entire vehicle above the rockers to limit overspray. For salt-specific wash in winter, Carpro Descale is a good product. It is a slightly lower pH which will help wash away salts that neutral or higher ph car washes won't do. 303 Products makes another one and a company called Detco makes a concentrate for salt removal car wash. I haven't tired these, but they are a lot cheaper than Carpro.
Thank you for taking the extra step of spraying it directly onto the paint to give a great visual representation of how long it lasts. That was truly a selfless act that I, nor almost anyone else would never do. I just bought a gallon and a sprayer.
I mix graphite powder with my regular fluid film , doesn't take much to make it black , thats all they use in it so way more cost effective to add it yourself if using gallon or 20 L pails
In my experience, it takes a ton of detergent soap, such as Dawn to remove fluid film from a surface. Regular car washes, touchless or not, won't remove it. Even car washes with the rocker and under blasters don't remove it. Even Dawn will eventually get clogged up with lanolin and become ineffective at washing it off pretty fast, requiring more Dawn to be applied.
Yeah that's exactly what you want, for it to stay on there. The only reason to EVER remove it is to cut out rusted steel and weld new panels in, prime and paint them.
@@ToreDL87 Yeah, staying on is a good thing. I was just letting people know my experiences with car was undercarriage sprayers and how hard it is to actually remove.
You are correct on most car washes and salt. To get it all you need tk be extremely thorough and get all over underneath with an underbody wand, also using salt away spray at the same time. Good review
Amazing stuff! I was astounded that it wasn’t removed by the car wash. I think the key is to let it collect grime on it. The road grit, dust, etc. add to to the protective effects.
Btw, my son just did his truck with black. We’ll be doing my truck with natural this weekend. It’ll be interesting to see the results next fall. I’ve done a heap of research looking for something that can be applied once, and the options are very limited. Cosmoline on a new vehicle with NO RUST, might be a good option, but the creep properties of Fluid Film and other Lanolin products is superior at keeping a thorough if thin coating. And as Repair Geek reports, after two or three years of applying it, a semi permanent coating is achieved, requiring reapplication only every two or three years. It’s essentially a better version of the old oil and dusty road practice from years ago. It’s great stuff! PB and Woolwax are two other great lanolin based coatings.
I don’t think there’s anything permanent that will last more than 3-5 years tops. Fluid film is really good. I have my 8 year review on my channel it’s almost completly rust free. Our 3 year old Jeep is already way rustier
In another video someone claims the black is simply done with graphite powder, he mixes in 3/4 cup of graphite powder to a gallon of regular fluid film and that's all it takes. Buying the graphite powder costs a fraction of the extra the black FF costs.
@@whatitisnt. @whatitisnt. I'm not sure tbh, but the graphite would mix into the fluid film and just add color, they don't add a lot, but by volume it would be like 200ml/3785ml = 0.05 or 5%. So still possible to affect, maybe that's why it clings to the car a bit more at the beginning of the demonstration
PA here too. I have a 2020 JL that I use it on and so far, so good. Make sure you blast as much as you can inside those frame cutouts. It will creep all through the frame if you hog it in there.
Hi, how many cans would you think is needed for a normal sized sedan? Also is fluid film black necessary for black sedans? And would surface shields application stand out color wise on a black car or is the graphite powder needed. Thanks for your time
Thank you! I just stumbled across this stuff and was wondering if there was a difference between the black and caramel colors. Caramel is a tad bit cheaper. And my car is black. Guessing I'll just go with the cheaper one.
I could only smell paraffin wax when I used Fluid Film Black. The MSDS also says paraffin wax as main ingredient. Not sure why they claim it's sheep oil.
I use the warehouse9000 one, there’s a video on my channel about it. It’s a little pricey but it comes with everything you need and a gallon of fluid film which should last a couple years.
Hey man from your experience with fluid film once it starts to warm up like it is now and the fluid film is on your car pretty good with some dirt in it as well. Does the salt rinse off ? Or does it attach to the fluid film like the dirt and grime ? Starting to wash my undercarriage but the film is on there really good lol
It can attach some to the dirt, it’s not a problem though becuase it’s not in contact with the metal. I just wait till alll the salt is off the roads then wash the underside really well.
Doesn't the salt and dirt just stick to the fluid film? If the fluid film won't wash off, arent those contaminants just building up on there? Next time it seems like you would be applying it over that crap again. Just curious about your thoughts?
Im getting a new vehicle. Should I wash underneath it before applying for the first time or does it matter. We are already in winter so there will be probably some salt underneath
Now I need a video on how to easily remove fluid film applied out of a 5 gallon bucket by the fluid film applicator. Stuff is thick and nothing takes it off and I need it all off lol...
The only reason you'd need it all off is for rust repair. If you need it all off, your car is pretty much doomed anyway so might as well keep it on. If you aren't doing rust repair, keep it on.
Here is a really awesome compressed air kit if you are looking for one!
► amzn.to/3vD9zxf
@@KurtofTrades thanks sir appreciate it 🙏
I've tried both types of fluid film. I did my entire truck underbody in black. I'd avoid the black unless you just want to hide a bunch of rust you already have. The normal fluid film doesn't look bad, and the black will end up obscuring any oil leaks on the vehicle. It looks identical to black grease, makes it more unpleasant to work on the vehicle. Both will end up with road dirt and grime on them anyway, and with the black you'll just have dust and grime stuck to it in no time. The black tends to cost a few dollars more per gallon, though it's a small difference. On a black framed vehicle, I found the black was actually harder to see the thickness and coverage compared to the normal vanilla / honey colored fluid film.
If you want to remove overspray, or in your case get it off the side of the truck, a high pH car-specific spray will do wonders. One cheap product I like is called "Dark Fury" by Superior Products. I get a gallon of it at OReillys for $26 USD. It dilutes 4:1. Pretreat with that, allow it to saponify the fluid film, gentle wiping with a microfiber you will toss. Also can use Road Warrior by Superior Products in maybe a 10:1. It's mean to remove serious road grime but is clearcoat and paint finish safe. Be gentle about removing that fluid film because it will have embedded dirt so any hard abrasion will turn that goo into sandpaper.
Before spraying my truck, I drape the entire vehicle above the rockers to limit overspray.
For salt-specific wash in winter, Carpro Descale is a good product. It is a slightly lower pH which will help wash away salts that neutral or higher ph car washes won't do. 303 Products makes another one and a company called Detco makes a concentrate for salt removal car wash. I haven't tired these, but they are a lot cheaper than Carpro.
this is a very simple, yet perfect review of the two products, and how they perform in a real use case.
Thanks!
Thank you for taking the extra step of spraying it directly onto the paint to give a great visual representation of how long it lasts.
That was truly a selfless act that I, nor almost anyone else would never do.
I just bought a gallon and a sprayer.
@Lamtitude How did it work out for you?
Very well done. You would make Project Farm proud.
The Black is helpfull you can see how long it last, easy to check on in the Spring 🧐👍🏻
I mix graphite powder with my regular fluid film , doesn't take much to make it black , thats all they use in it so way more cost effective to add it yourself if using gallon or 20 L pails
Exactly. 👍
In my experience, it takes a ton of detergent soap, such as Dawn to remove fluid film from a surface. Regular car washes, touchless or not, won't remove it. Even car washes with the rocker and under blasters don't remove it. Even Dawn will eventually get clogged up with lanolin and become ineffective at washing it off pretty fast, requiring more Dawn to be applied.
And that's why I love this product 👌💪🏽
Me too!
Yeah that's exactly what you want, for it to stay on there.
The only reason to EVER remove it is to cut out rusted steel and weld new panels in, prime and paint them.
@@ToreDL87 Yeah, staying on is a good thing. I was just letting people know my experiences with car was undercarriage sprayers and how hard it is to actually remove.
Just did my ranger in the bucket of black , I like the black because i can see if its still there.
Never heard of that stuff before, good to know it exists.
You are correct on most car washes and salt. To get it all you need tk be extremely thorough and get all over underneath with an underbody wand, also using salt away spray at the same time. Good review
Amazing stuff! I was astounded that it wasn’t removed by the car wash.
I think the key is to let it collect grime on it. The road grit, dust, etc. add to to the protective effects.
Road grime definitely helps it stick better
Btw, my son just did his truck with black. We’ll be doing my truck with natural this weekend. It’ll be interesting to see the results next fall.
I’ve done a heap of research looking for something that can be applied once, and the options are very limited. Cosmoline on a new vehicle with NO RUST, might be a good option, but the creep properties of Fluid Film and other Lanolin products is superior at keeping a thorough if thin coating. And as Repair Geek reports, after two or three years of applying it, a semi permanent coating is achieved, requiring reapplication only every two or three years. It’s essentially a better version of the old oil and dusty road practice from years ago.
It’s great stuff! PB and Woolwax are two other great lanolin based coatings.
I don’t think there’s anything permanent that will last more than 3-5 years tops. Fluid film is really good. I have my 8 year review on my channel it’s almost completly rust free. Our 3 year old Jeep is already way rustier
@@KurtofTrades
I can’t believe I haven’t seen that! I’ll check it out!
In another video someone claims the black is simply done with graphite powder, he mixes in 3/4 cup of graphite powder to a gallon of regular fluid film and that's all it takes. Buying the graphite powder costs a fraction of the extra the black FF costs.
Can’t do that with the cabs though.
@@KurtofTradeswdym?
@@whatitisnt. He meant you can't add graphite to the single-use cans, you can add to the large buckets if your applying with the sprayer.
@@henreedee will it not dilute and make it less affective?
@@whatitisnt. @whatitisnt. I'm not sure tbh, but the graphite would mix into the fluid film and just add color, they don't add a lot, but by volume it would be like 200ml/3785ml = 0.05 or 5%. So still possible to affect, maybe that's why it clings to the car a bit more at the beginning of the demonstration
Excellent video. Was interested in how the black would work. Thanks again. Greeting's from Ontario
Thanks! I like the black a little better but they are nearly identical
Great video. We have lanoguard here in the UK, which is similar to Fluidfilm, but it isn't black.
Good stuff!
Thanks for this Kurt, I'm about to have my car professionally done with this stuff.
Good idea!
They should sponsor you. They're missing out on an opportunity. Great vid! Thanks man.
THEY sent 12 cans for FREE !!
@ Good investment.
Worth about 1000$ +
great video. I use this stuff and it works wonders on my old Jeep in the PA winters.
PA here too. I have a 2020 JL that I use it on and so far, so good. Make sure you blast as much as you can inside those frame cutouts. It will creep all through the frame if you hog it in there.
Is there an option for clear spray? I want to spot treat some surface rust to prevent spreading
The regular is more clear, not completely though especially if you put it on thick.
Hi, how many cans would you think is needed for a normal sized sedan? Also is fluid film black necessary for black sedans? And would surface shields application stand out color wise on a black car or is the graphite powder needed. Thanks for your time
You don't need to use the black its just preference, takes about 3 cans for a car.
@@KurtofTrades wouldn't surface shield and regular fluid film stand out on a black car which wouldn't blend in aesthetically?
Thank you! I just stumbled across this stuff and was wondering if there was a difference between the black and caramel colors. Caramel is a tad bit cheaper. And my car is black. Guessing I'll just go with the cheaper one.
The black is good for coating old rusted looking metal to give it a better appearance.
How do you remove old coating in order to reapply? Just pressure wash or you need some kind of solvent like brake cleaner or something like that?
Pressure washer gets most of it, I usually just apply it over what’s left from last year
Amazing, when reapplying this product what would be the best technique is pressure washing before use enough to prep it?
Yea that’s probably the best just make sure it dries off fully before applying. I usually don’t do much prep
Fluid film black would be somewhat better lube because of the graphite added.
Still waiting for scented fluid film.
What about the smell? Does Black smell better than regular fluid film? Thank you.
Smells identical
@@KurtofTrades Oh no.... 🥲
It goes away after a day or two
@@KurtofTrades neither I spray it wrong or too much.
The smell is still there after like a week.
Whenever it’s raining, it’s even worse.
I could only smell paraffin wax when I used Fluid Film Black. The MSDS also says paraffin wax as main ingredient. Not sure why they claim it's sheep oil.
Great video 🎉 Thanks for the info.
I use Surface shield by PB Blaster
It doesent creep as good as FF?
Thinking if i should try this myself i just got a quote of $600
That’s alot of
Appreciate the content what is the best diy gun to use that aint gonna cost me a left leg ?
I use the warehouse9000 one, there’s a video on my channel about it. It’s a little pricey but it comes with everything you need and a gallon of fluid film which should last a couple years.
This was great, thank you!
FF Black costs more if you buy the bulk sizes.
Have you ever sprayed it inside body panels / cavities to prevent rusting from the inside
Thank you this is well done and informative.
No problem!
Can you do a comparison video comparison of wool wax vs fluid film
I should yes! Good idea.
@@KurtofTradessurface shield too 😄
Does this also keep existing rust in check?
If its really light rust it will help, if its really bad or if the rust is already on the inside of the panels then it probably won't help much.
@@KurtofTrades It sure does not hurt
Great test! Could u do similar test in the future FF vs Canadian Corrosion Free Rust Cure pls 🙂
Hey man from your experience with fluid film once it starts to warm up like it is now and the fluid film is on your car pretty good with some dirt in it as well. Does the salt rinse off ? Or does it attach to the fluid film like the dirt and grime ? Starting to wash my undercarriage but the film is on there really good lol
It can attach some to the dirt, it’s not a problem though becuase it’s not in contact with the metal. I just wait till alll the salt is off the roads then wash the underside really well.
this is why i wont put my car through a car wash with brushes.i dont want greasy fluid firm slapping my paint finish
Thank you for this video.
Doesn't the salt and dirt just stick to the fluid film? If the fluid film won't wash off, arent those contaminants just building up on there? Next time it seems like you would be applying it over that crap again. Just curious about your thoughts?
Yea it will, but it holds it there so it’s not on the metal.
Why are you putting it on your car paint?
Just so it is easier to see what it does. On the underside it’s hard to see it.
It was a demonstration
Im getting a new vehicle. Should I wash underneath it before applying for the first time or does it matter. We are already in winter so there will be probably some salt underneath
I would try to, just make sure to let it dry good before applying
Used it on my legacy gt
If they could make a clear version
Normal is pretty clear when it’s not super thick. I guess that is until it gets dirt caked on it. Clear would eventually get really dirty too
Good stuff
Be careful not to spray this stuff on your brakes :)
Now I need a video on how to easily remove fluid film applied out of a 5 gallon bucket by the fluid film applicator. Stuff is thick and nothing takes it off and I need it all off lol...
The only reason you'd need it all off is for rust repair.
If you need it all off, your car is pretty much doomed anyway so might as well keep it on.
If you aren't doing rust repair, keep it on.
how did you clean your car off?
Wash mitt and lots of sudds