I have a 2004 f150 fx4 4x4 5.4 V8 the overdrive light keeps flashing only with its in park it doesn't do it when I'm going down the road I love watching your videos because you have a lot if great tips can you help me out with this problem
I was wondering if you can give me some advice with a 2017 ford explorer that is giving me some problems.. we verly got it from ford but they seem to not care and dont fix anything ... hope you can help me
My father hipped me to Woolwax over 50 years ago, as he used to perform undercoating services at his Shell service stations, back in Michigan. Great stuff! I have applied it to every vehicle I have ever owned and never regretted it.
@@andyl9920 its likely best to have a 'clean' surface... from some experimenting i did a year or two ago on a delaminating Gen7 Corolla rear subframe, i sprayed WW onit then checked back a half year later with some intresting results.... ALL of the protective OEM paint coating on that subframe part that had not flaked off was NOW easily removable with a knife to the bare metal... i used some spray to hopefully completely clean and supposedly completely dry the surface and reapplied the WW
@@andyl9920 You would want to remove any scale or light surface crud, but otherwise it applies over existing rust to seal the metal from air contact, thereby stopping the corrosion process. It creeps/seeps into crevices for great coverage, as well.
I've been using WOOLWAX for a couple of years on my truck in the snowy state of WV. Woolwax stays on so much better than fluid film. I applied woolwax to my truck n fluid film to my car n the fluid film was off in about 3 months. Woolwax for the BIG WIN! GREAT PRODUCT!
Does it seem to retard the progress of corrosion? I was thinking of applying this to my plow truck which has already seen 35 winters in PA and NY. I apply fluid film to the plow already to keep junk from sticking, kind of like olive oil or butter for a pan.
@@workingcountry1776 yes, it does appear to stop rust in its tracks. The key would probably be to keep corroded surfaces covered. I think Woolwax is better at clinging to metal because if it’s viscosity.
@@TheNortheastAl FF is available at NAPA and Advance Auto Parts so that's what im using this year. If shipping is reasonable I might try woolwax brand next season. I am in the process of installing floor pan and some patch panels to keep the old pig safe til I find a southern cab for it. Funny, frame is super solid with surface rust but body is typical rot
Wow!! I just bought a kit from Woolwax for my Explorer I bought last month. 2003 Sport XLT, one owner, Wisconsin car it's entire life, only 55K miles! It looks almost mint underneath and I wanted to keep it that way. Glad to see that this product holds up really well!
You got lucky with that one. I'm in Madison and my 2000 f150 is starting to get pretty bad. Granted it lives outside and has almost 200k miles. It'll rust in half before it stops running though
Nice. I'd only recommend spraying that spare tire on both sides. Also, it's probably a good idea to spray or lubricate the system that drops spare too. I've seen people struggle to get their spare tire down after years of rusting.
The reason Woolwax is superior is because it doesn't contain solvents. That's the only difference to FluidFilm. As such, it's straight lanolin, which means it can be sprayed on absolutely everything, including exhausts, wiring, seals. I applied it inside and out the body cavities as well. It creeps
I just replaced tie rods and a lower ball joint on my car a few weeks after undercoating it and it was a mess. Make sure you replace everything that needs to be replaced before undercoating and you'll be fine
I use both Fluid Film and WoolWax. Spray Fluid Film first in August. It creeps really well in the heat. Then a month later come back and topcoat with WoolWax. I spray both on liberally. Buy it in the 5 gallon pails and you are set for a few years for touchups.
i bought a new dakota in 98 and fluid filmed it from day 1, i reapply/touch up every other year since, it has nearly 400,000 miles on it enduring Wisconsin winters, it still looks great, i plan on buying a new truck in a couple years and i might give woolwax a try on that truck, when i get the new truck, I've had so many people compliment the dakota with offers to buy knowing how well its been taken care of, don't think i will be parting with it anytime soon.
I just sprayed mine with wool wax about a week ago after watching your video. It turned out pretty good and seems to be holding up great so far! Thanks
Yep, since I found out about Fluid Film 4-5 years, ago, I've bought a spray can each November and put it on the underside of my car. It's cheap, easy and seems to last at least through March (which is when they stop salting the roads around me). I already had some minor rust and doing this seems to have completely stopped its progression. Not bad for 12 (US) dollars and an hour's time once a year.
I just did the bottom of my 04 Grand Cherokee with this stuff. Glad to see it sticks around pretty good. I really tried to get a lot into the unibody "frame rails" though the various holes they have. In Detroit area, I certainly feel your pain when it comes to salt encrusted vehicles.
You mean rust causer? LOL rubber stuff is what used car dealers spray over rust to hide it and people not in the auto industry go; "gee look, its clean underneath"
Hey, thanks for the update, and not leaving us hanging. Their current metal protection process by the manufacturer obviously falls short, but it gets the vehicles through the warranty. It would be worth it to pay extra to have a superior coating applied during the build for complete coverage and longer lasting. But it's all about costs and pre-determined obsolencence. Got to sell those parts and that labor. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the update. Lots of salt in use here so this was important to me. You pay a lot of money for a vehicle today you really need to take care of it. As always a great video
I love Woolwax! I do my cars, and have done my buddies for them as well. I wish I knew how the Suburban I sold a few years ago still looks, as I bet it looks better than the others of its vintage
Thanks for the video. Any of the lanolin coatings will work fine. According to "repair geek" here on RUclips, each one of the 3 lanolin products has different suttle advantages and disadvantages. The looser one(fluid film) may be better for inside boxed frames and closed body panels because it will creep better than the other 2 but won't wash off as easily in that protected area. One product has a strong smell that takes a few weeks to go away. Supposedly, pb blasters surface shied doesnt wash off as much as wool wax and fluid film. Repair geek lives in the rust belt and has been reviewing these here for 7 years on his vehicles. After 7 years, nothing has changed. He said he was going to stop updating until something starts rusting. Also, he hasn't had any damage to seals, gaskets, wiring, rubber, or plastics. Its good to hear a 2nd opinion, though, from another trusted source like you. I just wonder how you feel about working on a lanolin coated vehicle? I just cleaned up and painted the frame with mastercoat on my 97 f250hd 7.3 supercab 4x4. Im thinking about spraying some surface shield on it. Thanks for making this. 👍✌️
Thank you for showing your Holidays. I did Fluid Film on my E250 in my driveway on my back. I know i missed some crucial areas. Get them in the summer.
Agree. Has held up real well considering your regions harsh weather environment. Can’t say I can relate as I’m in the south west desert (Texas). Great product you used to protect your investment
Thank you for passing along your knowledge. I enjoy your content. A couple of thoughts...I would spray both sides of the spare, especially, the bead to prevent corrosion and leaks. Also, I wouldn't get hung up on using the black products. These lanolin products get dirty and turn dark on their own. When I work on it, I don't want that black dye getting all over me. I am sure other mechanics would think the same thing.
I am getting Krown next week. The Krown folks say that spring is the best time to apply because rust actually happens when it warms up. Anything is better than nothing and for the cost of these rust coatings vs rust repair down the road it's worth it. ❤
I’m actually impressed what fluid film and surface shield can do and I’m even impressed with this wool wax. I used to spend 600 or more and go yearly for touch ups. I spent 150 on a kit and do mine twice a year. The 2nd time I just give it a quick once over. My truck has held up really good and still looks factory after 3 years. I’m even doing other people vehicle making some side money I get better better at it each year. Most people don’t even think about the inside of the frame. You can even use this stuff to clean chrome just gotta do thin layer wipe of real good. Helps preserve chrome and other metal surfaces.
I watched the original video & liked what I saw and bought 30 cans of Fluid Film to coat the undercarriage of my Ford Crown Vic (I don't have an air compressor). So before I watch I am hoping the Woolswax worked awesome & my Fluid Film job will be almost as awesome. I applied the Fluid Film in the 90 degree heat of August. A+ for the camera & lighting work I could see everything. After watching it is easy to see the Woolswax did a great job & held up great that is impressive. Looks like all it needs is a light touch-up every year to maintain protection.
@@azizshavershian2065 I invested in an aircompressor & the spraygun kit that the Woolswax company sells. I spray the inside panels with fluid film & the outer with the thicker Woolswax. The end result is my car is still rust free after several years of driving in Boston, MA harsh & heavily salted winter roads. Given the price of cars Fluidfilm & Woolswax is worth every penny.
OK - it's been a year, and the truck appears relatively new. But....how many miles did yo put in that year? Where are you, and how much salt is used on your roads?
9 months into my old Saab and Most of its still there. Going to re-roll it in a few months and then spray the other areas after that. It’s worth it although my mechanic thinks it’s stupid.
for anybody reading this especially F-150 owners... Don't forget to spray the wool wax on the spare wheel itself because it's common for the wheel to get very rusty and on my F-150 it rusted so bad that a pinhole developed and the spare tire would no longer hold air.... I put wool wax on it and it should never be a problem anymore
On my 07 f150 I coated everything with e40 and let it sit a couple hours before pressure washing it off with hot water and then hot soap, and then hot water again, then the next day when it was completely dry I went under with a wire wheel on the end of my drill and got all the main areas and spots of rust left, then pressure washed with hot soap followed by hot water at the carwash, once it was dry I hit the underneath the while truck with rustoleum rust reformer and seal flat black, and then after it dried some I went over the top of that with rustoleum rust stop gloss enamel spray paint, both cans are only 5 bucks each and it's been 2 years now with no issues, but before each winter I go back underneath and touch it up in areas with the rustoleum stop rust gloss black enamel just to keep up on it, haven't had any problems and the maintenance on the following year was way less work then the initial prep and spray the first time. Plus it's way cheaper then por15 and that big air compressor in the video 😂 thanks so much for the videos! It's my first truck and I'm not a mechanic at all but I've watched your videos and been able to fix any problems I've had. Fixed, MAS, Throttle body, IAC, VCT solenoid before it needed it because I wasnt doing all that timing chain stuff lol thank you sir! You're saving a f150 in Washington state and you dont even know it 👍
Hey I used Waxoyl on my 89 K5 Blazer after giving it an extremely good cleaning. That was 15 years ago. No rusting as it was the day I first got it. It’s excellent product underbody and cavity wax. You heat or warm it up and spray. Now I recently used Woolwax on my new Ram.
I grew up in the mountains of NM. I left in 1990 and haven’t been back. But at that time the state didn’t salt the highways and few of the cities did either. We had trucks from the 1940’s all the way through the 80’s that had almost no rust other than a light surface rust. Now I live near Cleveland. I’m so sick and tired of rusty vehicles. This looks like a good option. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve considered moving to the Carolina’s or other southern states just to get away from snow and rust. But alas… family and friends live up here. So selling a truck every 4-5 years is the easiest option.
Hahaha, any good mechanic/technician is easily 3-4 weeks behind. If I was a week behind i would probably take a vacation as that would be the most caught up I have been in years.
One of the local shops near me, complained about my undercoat. He says it's a mess to work on. He joked that I should be charged extra. He thinks it's a waste of money. I haven't been back, since those comments. I have been reading about Waxoyl. It's thicker and insanely popular in Europe.
It is a mess to work on but a few shop towels and half a can of break kleen is better than having to deal with the rust and frozen fasteners, rusted fasteners breaking, etc
Didn't need to watch this because I've used it and it's great. Had my shop spray all the body cavities as well, all the underside including the exhaust, all around in the engine bay. Doesn't burn, stays "fluid", creeps into cracks and crevices, and sticks like heck. Every two years give the underside a recoat and that's it. All for $50 a gallon which will do all but the largest cars
@@martinmorris6271 No. I sprayed it on just before plow season. It wasn't very long before I saw complete dry spots on my frame. And, I used far more than they suggested.
I sprayed both of my vehicles with Woolwax before last winter and the majority of it was still on this fall when it was time to respray for the upcoming winter. I am impressed with Woolwax and intend on buying another 5 gal bucket of it based on the results I've had.
I think FF is better for over the wheel wells, inside rockers, door bottoms and inside frame rails because it creeps better and won't wash out in those areas. Then spray the open underbody with woolwax
@FordTechMakuloco when you do your carwashes I assume you do not get an undercarriage wash? Or do you also hit the underside with any wash (even if low pressure like from a garden hose)?
I probably overdone it, but I used approx 8 Qts to do a Hyundai Accent. I sprayed approx. a gallon up into the rocker panels and the holes in the unibody/frame and the rest on the underbody. I look at it like the Woolwax is cheap compared to the cost of a new vehicle, so if a few gallons of Woolwax will protect my vehicle and let me drive it for an extra 5+ yrs, I'm saving a lot of money.
Did you pull all the plugs and shoot in all the crevices when you did the original application? I just did a 2021GMC Acadia and took the outer wheel wells out and all the plugs, removed the wheels and protected all the brakes. It took about 5.5 hrs to do that, apply the material and then put everything back together. Maybe the best thing is to just watch your application video.
Woolwax product, not baaaaaad! 😖 Brian, ScannerDanner just did a video of a F350 digital MAF showing 0V on SnapOn scanner after damaged harness repair. Everything works fine but the scanner showing 0V was a real red herring. Be cool if you could provide your input, thanks! Paul agrees!
I watched that video. The problem is aftermarket scan tools, even snap-on give false data quite often. It takes a good tech to know when the readings are impossible and to not go down the wrong rabbit hole. If you watched the whole video that particular MAF is a frequency based MAF which is not normal for a FORD product. The snap-on software isn't set up for Frequency MAFs on a FORD product.
Hey Brian it would be really awesome if you did a video on rear main seal for the 04-08’s maybe your shop truck needs one. I just can’t find a thorough videos like yours. Sincerely one of your og fans!!
I've been applying FluidFilm to my F350 for over ten years. Bought her new in 2004, wish I knew of FF back then but yearly media blasting and paint touch ups kept her showroom new. Since the FF spraying once a year I haven't had to do much but hose it off after winter wait a few days to let it dry then reapply the FF. My only gripe is no matter what you use the bed wheel well lips WILL ROT AWAY EVENTUALLY Fords bed foam cant be stopped and no amount of used motor oil/fluid film or whatever else you use is gonna prevent body rot in that location. Last summer I did a complete passenger bed side replacement, and now the driver's side has started to bubble. Looks like neck spring I'll be doing that entire bed side and wheel house now
Also Ford doesn’t use much of a wheel liner in the rear. The 4x4 Dodge use a massive plastic liner in the rear. I’ve noticed at least on the older dodges the 4x4 gets them and the 2wd trucks do not.
Where did you find the plugs for your rocker panels. I can't find ones that fit anywhere, the factory holes in the rocker panels just had tape over them.
This truck has about the same amount of rust as my new 2020 from the dealer after about a two-month transit from Dearborn to my drive. I was very disappointed with ford's protection from the factory. I live in GA and never encounter rust on a vehicle and never thought to check it before delivery. So, I got under my brand new truck and coated it with the Heavy Duty version of CorossionX. Whished I has known about this product.
Did you try getting up inside rear wells where arch or tub meets the outer bed in the rear wheel wells? Im putting more 3M cavity wax using their wands that work great in my 150 tomorrow, already did the rockers and used gorilla tape where the "factory" tape was, over 16 holes!!!
Nice video. I like the idea of a pigment to quickly see if the product is on or not. I am applying fluid film this season to a rust free older vehicle that i have have to drive this winter due to unexpected world events and me not being as prepared as I should have been.
I have undercoating shop and undercoat about 3000 vehicles per year at our location. We stock and offer all products. Thicker is no better. Woolwax on that truck you loose alot of penetration capabilites. Also with it being thick, after re-application 3 years from now it will have so much build up you will have to steam wash the entire vehicle to re-apply otherwise it will be layered and surface bleed rust. You can do a honest review since you used the black, it dyes rust pores, of course it will look better.
@@2287Jasper I got the New Hampshire Oil Undercoating done last year and put fluid film on parts the guy missed and in other parts just for good measure. Should I NOT just oil over the old stuff again this year?
I used that inside the sheet metal but not the frame/undercarriage as they recommend not going through a "belly blast" car wash. And, my thoughts are I'd rather get the salt off than leave it all up to the lard.
Your usual thorough job, both in the application and the video. Follow ups are helpful in understanding how well the product protects, and as well, how often and where the touch ups will be required. I can't tell if you used the same product on the driveshaft?
I have a question. I took the cats off my V10 gasoline 05 F350 exhaust. I was told I need to put a tuner on it because of the check engine light is on and keeps having misfires.
Here's the Original Woolwax application video-
ruclips.net/video/W06WX6JRGM8/видео.html
Woolwax Kit I Recommend-
amzn.to/3jDT2xv
Every time I watch your videos. I learn something new. Thanks for your work brother.
unavailable on Amazon.
Just bought this kit a couple weeks ago! Just need to apply it over the weekend.
I have a 2004 f150 fx4 4x4 5.4 V8 the overdrive light keeps flashing only with its in park it doesn't do it when I'm going down the road I love watching your videos because you have a lot if great tips can you help me out with this problem
I was wondering if you can give me some advice with a 2017 ford explorer that is giving me some problems.. we verly got it from ford but they seem to not care and dont fix anything ... hope you can help me
The leaking rear main seal on my fox body has worked great as undercoating for the last 30 years 😉
same with my 66 mustang
nice!
Works great one my 77 Versailles to and the car does all the appling.
I see I'm not the only one who uses that undercoating😬. Just doesn't seem to get the rocker panels covered well 😕.
@@robertschneider1977 drill some holes in the bellhousing so the flywheel can sling it and spread it more for you lol
My father hipped me to Woolwax over 50 years ago, as he used to perform undercoating services at his Shell service stations, back in Michigan. Great stuff! I have applied it to every vehicle I have ever owned and never regretted it.
NiCE !!!
Do u clean the rust prior to applying woolwax? Some people are saying to just spray it over which i dont like that idea
@@andyl9920 its likely best to have a 'clean' surface... from some experimenting i did a year or two ago on a delaminating Gen7 Corolla rear subframe, i sprayed WW onit then checked back a half year later with some intresting results.... ALL of the protective OEM paint coating on that subframe part that had not flaked off was NOW easily removable with a knife to the bare metal... i used some spray to hopefully completely clean and supposedly completely dry the surface and reapplied the WW
@@andyl9920 You would want to remove any scale or light surface crud, but otherwise it applies over existing rust to seal the metal from air contact, thereby stopping the corrosion process. It creeps/seeps into crevices for great coverage, as well.
I've been using WOOLWAX for a couple of years on my truck in the snowy state of WV. Woolwax stays on so much better than fluid film. I applied woolwax to my truck n fluid film to my car n the fluid film was off in about 3 months. Woolwax for the BIG WIN! GREAT PRODUCT!
Can you run your vehicle through the car wash after applying the wool wax?
We used the clear WoolWax on a 2000 E250 van that is pretty well rusted and it held up since last fall. Great product.
Does it seem to retard the progress of corrosion? I was thinking of applying this to my plow truck which has already seen 35 winters in PA and NY. I apply fluid film to the plow already to keep junk from sticking, kind of like olive oil or butter for a pan.
@@workingcountry1776 yes, it does appear to stop rust in its tracks. The key would probably be to keep corroded surfaces covered. I think Woolwax is better at clinging to metal because if it’s viscosity.
@@TheNortheastAl FF is available at NAPA and Advance Auto Parts so that's what im using this year. If shipping is reasonable I might try woolwax brand next season. I am in the process of installing floor pan and some patch panels to keep the old pig safe til I find a southern cab for it. Funny, frame is super solid with surface rust but body is typical rot
Wow!! I just bought a kit from Woolwax for my Explorer I bought last month. 2003 Sport XLT, one owner, Wisconsin car it's entire life, only 55K miles! It looks almost mint underneath and I wanted to keep it that way. Glad to see that this product holds up really well!
You got lucky with that one. I'm in Madison and my 2000 f150 is starting to get pretty bad. Granted it lives outside and has almost 200k miles. It'll rust in half before it stops running though
All boil base Rust protection is supposed to be sprayed into the inside of the Box frame as well
Thanks for the update, Brian. Looks like that stuff held up really well and your truck will survive life in the rust belt. Keep up the good work.
Nice. I'd only recommend spraying that spare tire on both sides. Also, it's probably a good idea to spray or lubricate the system that drops spare too. I've seen people struggle to get their spare tire down after years of rusting.
The reason Woolwax is superior is because it doesn't contain solvents. That's the only difference to FluidFilm. As such, it's straight lanolin, which means it can be sprayed on absolutely everything, including exhausts, wiring, seals. I applied it inside and out the body cavities as well. It creeps
I used it on my F-150, worked great. Just makes for a messy day next time you work under the truck.
Which is within a few days since it’s a Ford.
@@fsu3784 2010 F-150 with 128,000 miles, a few small issues but nothing major.
I just replaced tie rods and a lower ball joint on my car a few weeks after undercoating it and it was a mess. Make sure you replace everything that needs to be replaced before undercoating and you'll be fine
Thank you for this video. I live in Maine and just got a Sierra with surface rust all over the undercarriage. This has helped me decide on wool wax.
Fluid Film FTW !!!! This stuff really works and I'm in RI it's saving my 06 Ranger.
How does it look today?
@@anthonyjulson8840 like it did the day I first applied it. Stuff is great.
How long you been using it?
@@anthonyjulson8840 gotta be 5 years now since the 1st app still going strong.
I use both Fluid Film and WoolWax. Spray Fluid Film first in August. It creeps really well in the heat. Then a month later come back and topcoat with WoolWax. I spray both on liberally. Buy it in the 5 gallon pails and you are set for a few years for touchups.
i bought a new dakota in 98 and fluid filmed it from day 1, i reapply/touch up every other year since, it has nearly 400,000 miles on it enduring Wisconsin winters, it still looks great, i plan on buying a new truck in a couple years and i might give woolwax a try on that truck, when i get the new truck, I've had so many people compliment the dakota with offers to buy knowing how well its been taken care of, don't think i will be parting with it anytime soon.
Just sprayed my ‘14 Sequoia tonight. I used Fluid Film on my ‘06 Explorer, still looks like new.
I just sprayed mine with wool wax about a week ago after watching your video. It turned out pretty good and seems to be holding up great so far! Thanks
Hey apply my truck never get drying
Up here in PEI eastern Canada 🇨🇦 I use fluid film and it works equally as well which ever you choose its better than nothing eh
Yep, since I found out about Fluid Film 4-5 years, ago, I've bought a spray can each November and put it on the underside of my car. It's cheap, easy and seems to last at least through March (which is when they stop salting the roads around me). I already had some minor rust and doing this seems to have completely stopped its progression. Not bad for 12 (US) dollars and an hour's time once a year.
I just did the bottom of my 04 Grand Cherokee with this stuff. Glad to see it sticks around pretty good. I really tried to get a lot into the unibody "frame rails" though the various holes they have. In Detroit area, I certainly feel your pain when it comes to salt encrusted vehicles.
WOW! I'm impressed with that. And it goes without saying, infinitely better than rubberized undercoating.
You mean rust causer? LOL rubber stuff is what used car dealers spray over rust to hide it and people not in the auto industry go; "gee look, its clean underneath"
@@workingcountry1776 right that happen to me
Thanks! Very good to see 1 year after initial application
Hey, thanks for the update, and not leaving us hanging. Their current metal protection process by the manufacturer obviously falls short, but it gets the vehicles through the warranty. It would be worth it to pay extra to have a superior coating applied during the build for complete coverage and longer lasting. But it's all about costs and pre-determined obsolencence. Got to sell those parts and that labor. Thanks for the video.
nope..they want to sell you a whole new car.
Thanks for the update. Lots of salt in use here so this was important to me. You pay a lot of money for a vehicle today you really need to take care of it.
As always a great video
Looks Good! Wish that product was available 60 years ago
In Chicago we have to offer one of our cars up to the SALT GODS.
I love Woolwax! I do my cars, and have done my buddies for them as well. I wish I knew how the Suburban I sold a few years ago still looks, as I bet it looks better than the others of its vintage
Thanks for the video. Any of the lanolin coatings will work fine. According to "repair geek" here on RUclips, each one of the 3 lanolin products has different suttle advantages and disadvantages. The looser one(fluid film) may be better for inside boxed frames and closed body panels because it will creep better than the other 2 but won't wash off as easily in that protected area. One product has a strong smell that takes a few weeks to go away. Supposedly, pb blasters surface shied doesnt wash off as much as wool wax and fluid film. Repair geek lives in the rust belt and has been reviewing these here for 7 years on his vehicles. After 7 years, nothing has changed. He said he was going to stop updating until something starts rusting. Also, he hasn't had any damage to seals, gaskets, wiring, rubber, or plastics. Its good to hear a 2nd opinion, though, from another trusted source like you. I just wonder how you feel about working on a lanolin coated vehicle?
I just cleaned up and painted the frame with mastercoat on my 97 f250hd 7.3 supercab 4x4. Im thinking about spraying some surface shield on it. Thanks for making this. 👍✌️
Thank you for showing your Holidays. I did Fluid Film on my E250 in my driveway on my back. I know i missed some crucial areas. Get them in the summer.
Agree. Has held up real well considering your regions harsh weather environment. Can’t say I can relate as I’m in the south west desert (Texas). Great product you used to protect your investment
Man, it looks like 10+-year-old cars we see down here in Houston LOL
Used to bring cars back from North Carolina. 20 year old cars would look like 2 year Chicago cars. They sold fast .
Thank you for passing along your knowledge. I enjoy your content. A couple of thoughts...I would spray both sides of the spare, especially, the bead to prevent corrosion and leaks. Also, I wouldn't get hung up on using the black products. These lanolin products get dirty and turn dark on their own. When I work on it, I don't want that black dye getting all over me. I am sure other mechanics would think the same thing.
I have been waiting for this. :)
Congrats on 500k subscribers
I am getting Krown next week. The Krown folks say that spring is the best time to apply because rust actually happens when it warms up. Anything is better than nothing and for the cost of these rust coatings vs rust repair down the road it's worth it. ❤
Holding up well Brian, thanks for the update!
I’m actually impressed what fluid film and surface shield can do and I’m even impressed with this wool wax. I used to spend 600 or more and go yearly for touch ups. I spent 150 on a kit and do mine twice a year. The 2nd time I just give it a quick once over. My truck has held up really good and still looks factory after 3 years. I’m even doing other people vehicle making some side money I get better better at it each year. Most people don’t even think about the inside of the frame. You can even use this stuff to clean chrome just gotta do thin layer wipe of real good. Helps preserve chrome and other metal surfaces.
Dust and dirt makes a nice coating and holds it always drive on a dusty dry road after
I watched the original video & liked what I saw and bought 30 cans of Fluid Film to coat the undercarriage of my Ford Crown Vic (I don't have an air compressor). So before I watch I am hoping the Woolswax worked awesome & my Fluid Film job will be almost as awesome. I applied the Fluid Film in the 90 degree heat of August.
A+ for the camera & lighting work I could see everything. After watching it is easy to see the Woolswax did a great job & held up great that is impressive. Looks like all it needs is a light touch-up every year to maintain protection.
any updates? I just applied Fluid Film to both my CVPI P7B's
@@azizshavershian2065 I invested in an aircompressor & the spraygun kit that the Woolswax company sells. I spray the inside panels with fluid film & the outer with the thicker Woolswax. The end result is my car is still rust free after several years of driving in Boston, MA harsh & heavily salted winter roads. Given the price of cars Fluidfilm & Woolswax is worth every penny.
I love my used F150 2004 truck I bought a month before you did your original video Brian, if it were newish I would be using this product, good job!!
Drive down the dustiest road you can find after applying, works amazing
old cars ive worked look a bit like that , everything with an oily sheen everywhere LOL. lanolin works well used it for years.
OK - it's been a year, and the truck appears relatively new.
But....how many miles did yo put in that year? Where are you, and how much salt is used on your roads?
Thanks for the update. Great product.
Great info...going back to your previous woolwax vid.
Thanks for update Brian
Add a canister under hood run small rubber lines under body, fill canister transmission fluid, open valve canistee. Drive. Works great
I really feel for you all back east and such, here in the sacramento valley we get no snow or salt... So very little rust issues...
That, and in places in the western US that do get snow like in the Sierras and the Cascades, they use sand on the roads not salt.
Thank God I live in South Fla where I don't have to worry about this. My sister in Western NY is always going through this.
Im in Western New York, Buffalo region. Its terrible cars and truck start bubbling in 6 yrs
@@MustangNthusiest That is where she lives
I am from Chicago Great job
9 months into my old Saab and Most of its still there. Going to re-roll it in a few months and then spray the other areas after that. It’s worth it although my mechanic thinks it’s stupid.
for anybody reading this especially F-150 owners... Don't forget to spray the wool wax on the spare wheel itself because it's common for the wheel to get very rusty and on my F-150 it rusted so bad that a pinhole developed and the spare tire would no longer hold air.... I put wool wax on it and it should never be a problem anymore
Looks like the body mount at 3:40 missing the nut?
no
The bottom piece of the mount is threaded
FordTechMakuloco good to hear from you again.
Looks Good, Well worth it. Thanks for sharing.
We just had our vehicles done with Krown. Hopefully it was worth it.
Look great Brian after a yrs I need that on my 2009 F150 XLT..
How often do you wash your truck, especially in the winter? Do you use an automatic wash with undercarriage wash? Thank you!
On my 07 f150 I coated everything with e40 and let it sit a couple hours before pressure washing it off with hot water and then hot soap, and then hot water again, then the next day when it was completely dry I went under with a wire wheel on the end of my drill and got all the main areas and spots of rust left, then pressure washed with hot soap followed by hot water at the carwash, once it was dry I hit the underneath the while truck with rustoleum rust reformer and seal flat black, and then after it dried some I went over the top of that with rustoleum rust stop gloss enamel spray paint, both cans are only 5 bucks each and it's been 2 years now with no issues, but before each winter I go back underneath and touch it up in areas with the rustoleum stop rust gloss black enamel just to keep up on it, haven't had any problems and the maintenance on the following year was way less work then the initial prep and spray the first time. Plus it's way cheaper then por15 and that big air compressor in the video 😂 thanks so much for the videos! It's my first truck and I'm not a mechanic at all but I've watched your videos and been able to fix any problems I've had. Fixed, MAS, Throttle body, IAC, VCT solenoid before it needed it because I wasnt doing all that timing chain stuff lol thank you sir! You're saving a f150 in Washington state and you dont even know it 👍
Oh and I'm doing the new oil pump soon too, no problems yet but still going to anyways
Any plastic underbody and wheel well shield kits for Ford trucks? It would save the yearly undercoating and reduce noise.
What's your thoughts on the gas 7.3 & ten speed transmission on the 2020 F250/F350?
Hey Go for it. That 7.3 Godzilla motor
There is an anti-rust wax chemical sold in UK called _"Waxoyl"_ that is either shop applied or DIY. It's supposed to be good.
Hey I used Waxoyl on my 89 K5 Blazer after giving it an extremely good cleaning. That was 15 years ago. No rusting as it was the day I first got it. It’s excellent product underbody and cavity wax. You heat or warm it up and spray. Now I recently used Woolwax on my new Ram.
Great video as always thank u keep them coming
I grew up in the mountains of NM. I left in 1990 and haven’t been back. But at that time the state didn’t salt the highways and few of the cities did either. We had trucks from the 1940’s all the way through the 80’s that had almost no rust other than a light surface rust. Now I live near Cleveland. I’m so sick and tired of rusty vehicles. This looks like a good option. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve considered moving to the Carolina’s or other southern states just to get away from snow and rust. But alas… family and friends live up here. So selling a truck every 4-5 years is the easiest option.
When you get your second bay installed do you think that’s gonna cut your week long waiting period in half?
Week long? We are at a month right now.
Hahaha, any good mechanic/technician is easily 3-4 weeks behind. If I was a week behind i would probably take a vacation as that would be the most caught up I have been in years.
That looks very good. Would you say this truck saw Salt and Brine on a regular basis during the time this product was on the vehicle?
last winter yes.
Spare tire needs some love.
please 10 year review in 9 years ! ! !
now that would be interesting
One of the local shops near me, complained about my undercoat. He says it's a mess to work on. He joked that I should be charged extra. He thinks it's a waste of money. I haven't been back, since those comments. I have been reading about Waxoyl. It's thicker and insanely popular in Europe.
It is a mess to work on but the product works sooo well.
It is a mess to work on but a few shop towels and half a can of break kleen is better than having to deal with the rust and frozen fasteners, rusted fasteners breaking, etc
Sweet, I'm bringing my 2011 crown vic police Interceptor for this. 😎👍
Great product review. Cheers!
Didn't need to watch this because I've used it and it's great. Had my shop spray all the body cavities as well, all the underside including the exhaust, all around in the engine bay. Doesn't burn, stays "fluid", creeps into cracks and crevices, and sticks like heck. Every two years give the underside a recoat and that's it. All for $50 a gallon which will do all but the largest cars
Looks like you have bilstein 4600’s on the rear but not the front?
5100's front and rear actually, the 4600 series is yellow.
It was hard to tell in the video if those were sink or yellow... how is the ride?
A little rougher more controlled but then again I used their leveling shocks up front adding 2" so its going to be.
Gotta touch it up, each time you put it on the lift :) Thanks for the update!
Lanolin Formula Clear Gel. Can it be used to apply on door, trunk seams? Does it completely dries and create a protection coating?
Going to try Woolwax this year. I used Fluid Film last year and it was completely washed off in 3 months.
Did you get a lot of undercarriage washes? High pressure washing under there will wash off over time. Fluid Film holds on for me
@@martinmorris6271 No. I sprayed it on just before plow season. It wasn't very long before I saw complete dry spots on my frame. And, I used far more than they suggested.
I sprayed both of my vehicles with Woolwax before last winter and the majority of it was still on this fall when it was time to respray for the upcoming winter. I am impressed with Woolwax and intend on buying another 5 gal bucket of it based on the results I've had.
I think FF is better for over the wheel wells, inside rockers, door bottoms and inside frame rails because it creeps better and won't wash out in those areas. Then spray the open underbody with woolwax
@FordTechMakuloco when you do your carwashes I assume you do not get an undercarriage wash? Or do you also hit the underside with any wash (even if low pressure like from a garden hose)?
Yes nice great. I have two cans of FF. Just purchased the FF spray gun (finally in stock here) ... NOw I just need a truck that isn't rusty xD
This looks great. I use Corrosion X which is specified for salt water marine applications. The first app is the most important.
How well does it work?
@@fyou2327I have good results.
How much did you use? Thinking about getting a gallon for my 4runner but wondering if ill need 2
I probably overdone it, but I used approx 8 Qts to do a Hyundai Accent. I sprayed approx. a gallon up into the rocker panels and the holes in the unibody/frame and the rest on the underbody. I look at it like the Woolwax is cheap compared to the cost of a new vehicle, so if a few gallons of Woolwax will protect my vehicle and let me drive it for an extra 5+ yrs, I'm saving a lot of money.
Did you pull all the plugs and shoot in all the crevices when you did the original application? I just did a 2021GMC Acadia and took the outer wheel wells out and all the plugs, removed the wheels and protected all the brakes. It took about 5.5 hrs to do that, apply the material and then put everything back together. Maybe the best thing is to just watch your application video.
Will wool wax be an issue if I have a titanium exhaust?
Looks good, thanks for the update.
What tires did you go with? Truck looks great
305/65R18 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2
18x9 Gloss Black Painted Fuel Off-Road Blitz +20 offset
I live in Texas, and I just want to clean up my axles and frame to make it look better and to protect the metal! What would you recommend?
P B blaster makes a very good product, called surface shield
Woolwax product, not baaaaaad! 😖
Brian, ScannerDanner just did a video of a F350 digital MAF showing 0V on SnapOn scanner after damaged harness repair. Everything works fine but the scanner showing 0V was a real red herring. Be cool if you could provide your input, thanks! Paul agrees!
I watched that video. The problem is aftermarket scan tools, even snap-on give false data quite often. It takes a good tech to know when the readings are impossible and to not go down the wrong rabbit hole. If you watched the whole video that particular MAF is a frequency based MAF which is not normal for a FORD product. The snap-on software isn't set up for Frequency MAFs on a FORD product.
Thanks! Good points.
Hey Brian it would be really awesome if you did a video on rear main seal for the 04-08’s maybe your shop truck needs one. I just can’t find a thorough videos like yours. Sincerely one of your og fans!!
I've been applying FluidFilm to my F350 for over ten years. Bought her new in 2004, wish I knew of FF back then but yearly media blasting and paint touch ups kept her showroom new. Since the FF spraying once a year I haven't had to do much but hose it off after winter wait a few days to let it dry then reapply the FF. My only gripe is no matter what you use the bed wheel well lips WILL ROT AWAY EVENTUALLY Fords bed foam cant be stopped and no amount of used motor oil/fluid film or whatever else you use is gonna prevent body rot in that location. Last summer I did a complete passenger bed side replacement, and now the driver's side has started to bubble. Looks like neck spring I'll be doing that entire bed side and wheel house now
Also Ford doesn’t use much of a wheel liner in the rear. The 4x4 Dodge use a massive plastic liner in the rear. I’ve noticed at least on the older dodges the 4x4 gets them and the 2wd trucks do not.
Try cosmoline.
what is cosmoline? I looked it up but it seems to be a general term rather than an actual product@@zell863
Where did you find the plugs for your rocker panels. I can't find ones that fit anywhere, the factory holes in the rocker panels just had tape over them.
This truck has about the same amount of rust as my new 2020 from the dealer after about a two-month transit from Dearborn to my drive. I was very disappointed with ford's protection from the factory. I live in GA and never encounter rust on a vehicle and never thought to check it before delivery. So, I got under my brand new truck and coated it with the Heavy Duty version of CorossionX. Whished I has known about this product.
Can you post the tire rim combo from the shop truck? Looks great
305/65R18 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2
18x9 Gloss Black Painted Fuel Off-Road Blitz 20 offset
amazing work keep it up!
Did you try getting up inside rear wells where arch or tub meets the outer bed in the rear wheel wells? Im putting more 3M cavity wax using their wands that work great in my 150 tomorrow, already did the rockers and used gorilla tape where the "factory" tape was, over 16 holes!!!
Do you clean the dirty areas or do you just spray over them again?
Do you have any videos of your lift cause I’m planning on get one and what to see what brand is best I’m between Bendpak and Forward/Rotary
Nice video. I like the idea of a pigment to quickly see if the product is on or not. I am applying fluid film this season to a rust free older vehicle that i have have to drive this winter due to unexpected world events and me not being as prepared as I should have been.
I have undercoating shop and undercoat about 3000 vehicles per year at our location.
We stock and offer all products.
Thicker is no better. Woolwax on that truck you loose alot of penetration capabilites. Also with it being thick, after re-application 3 years from now it will have so much build up you will have to steam wash the entire vehicle to re-apply otherwise it will be layered and surface bleed rust.
You can do a honest review since you used the black, it dyes rust pores, of course it will look better.
@@2287Jasper I got the New Hampshire Oil Undercoating done last year and put fluid film on parts the guy missed and in other parts just for good measure. Should I NOT just oil over the old stuff again this year?
Ziebart is rubberized garbage, it traps moisture, go for the fluid film or proform oil based
How well did it hold up to carwashing (carefully rinsing salt traps like fenders and rocker panels)?
I used that inside the sheet metal but not the frame/undercarriage as they recommend not going through a "belly blast" car wash. And, my thoughts are I'd rather get the salt off than leave it all up to the lard.
Your usual thorough job, both in the application and the video. Follow ups are helpful in understanding how well the product protects, and as well, how often and where the touch ups will be required. I can't tell if you used the same product on the driveshaft?
Yup it was the same stuff just smeared onto the driveshaft.
I have a question. I took the cats off my V10 gasoline 05 F350 exhaust. I was told I need to put a tuner on it because of the check engine light is on and keeps having misfires.