@@Haddley333 best practice is once before and once after winter. Before winter should be obvious, after winter is usually after you clean off the winter grime then you give it a new coat again. Some people don't bother cleaning, during winter if you had driven over snow, it'll scrape off some coating, they just re-apply for the after winter months
I'm on year 8 with fluid film on my truck. I purchased my 2006 Silverado from Texas. It was rust free and low miles. I stripped the frame, and applied por 15 to it. Then every fall I apply fluid film in the rockers, wheel arches, doors, tail gate, hood, and front fenders. So far no rust. I also spray fluid film on top of the por 15 on the frame. The truck is holding up great with 160k miles. If you plan on keeping a vehicle fluid film is the way to go.
We've been using Fluid Film for decades. What I love is, it's safe to spray on plastics, so you don't have to care if you get it all over connectors. Our vehicles and anything metal outside of our house are all corrosion free with annual applications.
It's a good thing it doesn't affect plastics. I spray it on EVERYTHING lol I can't imagine having to tape off certain areas or being extremely cautious when spraying
I pick up salt at one of the worlds largest salt mines. The forklift drivers use Fluid Film as their go to, for spraying on their machines and dock plates and other metal stuff around their shipping yard to prevent rust.
THIS IS THE COMMENT YOU WAITED FOR! I worked in a gear shop, we had uncut gears which had been outside on our property for over 10 years, through Canadian winters. One day we finally had a reason to use them. They asked me to clean 1 off. It was covered with some coating. Nothing I did could remove it. They told me that I have to use Acetone, so I did, soak a rag, hold in on a small area for quite a while and then barely could I rub it off!! This stuff was Fluid Film. Problem with what you're doing in the video is. Fluid Film in a container IS WATER SOLUBLE. Fluid Film in a Spray Can IS NOT water soluble. On the gear was from a Spray Can. After all that time outdoors it was perfectly coated and rust free. I bought a new car and first thing I did was Buy 2 cans of Fluid Film and sprayed the entire bottom, including above the Spare tire that hangs, it's aircraft Cable and the rim of the spare. 9 years later when I sold it, underneath was still perfect! NO RUST, spare tire rim was like the day it was bought!! only lower control arm on the front had some rust, everything else was perfect! THAT"S THE DIFFERENCE!!! Water can not take off the spray can stuff... Only acetone stands any chance! I am sold for life on the Spray Can stuff!!! I would never have known unless I seen what my company uses. They told me why the Can is the only one they use to protect things.
Interesting for sure. I recently read the opposite actually -- that the spray cans washed off easier than the Fluid Film that comes in the larger containers because they had propellant added (or something to that effect). Good to hear your experience.
Just ran across this video and your channel for the first time. I got to say that no one else on RUclips has so thoroughly reviewed both the pros and cons of using fluid film. This video you posted is truly exceptional and a testament to your dedicated attention to detail and high degree of professionalism!! Very much appreciated!!
Jeep is in excellent shape! The thin barely painted axles and such from the factory are usually covered in crusty rust by now! Fluid Film did the job well!!
Definitely agree on your point about sparing the high pressure wash in the winter time. Garden hose pressure is all you need until spring if you must wash. I like to do my annual application while the weather is warm still to give time for the fluid film to migrate into the seams etc. sometimes I will reapply exposed areas in the middle of winter during a dry spell, but that’s a pretty quick task
Applying it while it's warm would be the way to go. I always seem to procrastinate until it's about 40 lol Can't say I would recommend it! Not fun! It is pretry amazing how much the stuff migrates.
I like it but it doesn't last long here in the pacific northwest. I have ordered a sprayer and will try mixing it with linseed oil, automatic transmission fluid, and some sort of grease.
@@mark2073 there are (were) 'grease and graphite' undercoats (for bottom only, not inside doors, rocker panels, etc.) used in Canada...lasted well enough some mechanics refused to work on car due to mess ( a 'good' mess). Some guys would make a home-made version by mixing asphalt undercoat with used engine oil, appllied with a schutz gun.
I picked up a used 2017 Tundra. I used the black Fluid Film (bought 5 gal bucket) and a sprayer. My Stepson is using it on his Tacoma. We have enough for a few years of reapplications. I expect it will greatly extend the life of these trucks here in South-Central New York State. I had a '97 T100 that was pretty well rotted out without any undercoating. I wish I had a lift, it would make the job so much easier!
The 5 gallon bucket is the way to go! I've been using mine for a few years now and I still have some left. I imagine it will significantly extend the life of those trucks. A lift would be amazing but, I'm right there with ya. Crawling around on the ground lol
I agree 100%, FF is a great product. just for esthetics I like the FF black. What I personally do, is get my vehicles "Krowned" first. That stuff is so thin it creeps into the tightest of crevice's. Following years I FF, or "corrosion free", both are great products. Also I spray in the late spring, after rain has washed all salt off the roads and puddles, and I've had a chance to power spray any salts residue from under my cars. The heat of the summer will help thin it and have it creep! I'm in southern Ontario Canada, where they salt like crazy all winter long.
I’m in Ontario too. I did Krown every year on a 2003 Buick I bought 3 years ago but it did not stop my car from rusting. I had no rust when I bought the car. Would you suggest Krown, then maybe a month later doing fluid film?
I do an annual application of fluid film on my wife’s XJ as well as my own. I like to get that done while the weather is warm and dry to give it time to migrate into the seams. When the sun appears during the winter, I use nothing more than garden hose pressure to spray the salt crust off of areas that I can reach underneath, but otherwise I’ll wait until spring to go high-pressure
I wish I was on top of it as much as you are! Usually once the temperature dipps below 30 I remember I need to spray the jeep lol. I can't say it's an enjoyable task in the cold. Amd the fluid film does creep much better in the heat.
I am at 350,000 miles on my Taco. Surface rust only on my frame. What would you recommend as a prep prior to start using Fluid film? Ospho? just clean with a pressure washer? Sanding? A liquid prep such as you would use prior to painting?
I would be willing to bet that most people would say to just apply the Fluid Film to the frame as it is. I've always tried to clean most of the dirt off before applying. Unless the frame is covered in dirt, I don't think it has a huge difference on the performance. I have some rust on my truck and I plan on removing as much of it as possible and painting the surface before applying the FF.
Good review. Wisconsin 2nd gen ram owner here. This product just works. I have spent a life time of research on rust bullet, corroseal, por 15, rust this...rust that. Long story short, fluid film, stainless steal, or no winter.
I'm down in NC, so I don't have the road salt to deal with. BUT, I do have the saltwater when I take it on the beach. I've had my jeep for about 7 years and it is getting crusty on the bottom side for the beach. I have considered doing the fluid film treatment, but my biggest reservation has been the slick oily coating on the underside of the jeep when working on it. Looks like I'll have to get past that and start spraying it with the fluid film. Thanks for taking the time to post this up.
In Pa there is a lot of garages that will spray oil on the bottom of vehicles worked with a guy that had a 24 yr old Toyota truck with no rust holes anywhere and he had it sprayed every year
It looks like the Fluid Film and the skid plates are doing their jobs. Good job. I don't understand people that spend so much money on those vehicles not protecting them.
The dealers and manufacturers will tell you no undercoating needed. Don’t undercoat with something that encapsulates the frame. It will rust under the coating.
A lot of people just don’t know about it, including me when I used to live in Michigan. Now I live in the south and don’t have to really worry about salted roads. They do occasionally spray a brine solution on bridges during the winter. I started to fluid film under my Chevy where my floor jack and dealer lifts have wiped away the factory applied wax and the hitch.
I bought a spray system from Lemmer to apply fluid film. It was expensive, but I'm spraying a dozen vehicles so year or more, so I needed something good. To fight the smell, I've been adding a product from Power Plus lubricants. It's a fuel scent additive called Cherry Bomb. There are many other scents available too, I just like the cherry one. I mix in 2 or 3 ounces into a 5 gallon pail of fluid film using a paint paddle on a drill. Works great.
@@BustedBeaters It's lanolin based like fluid film but a little thicker, sticks better. Both do the job though. I bought a 5 gallon bucket, will last me several years.
Just did my newly acquired 2007 4runner last month, i had a LOT of rust to remove and clean, and it wasn't all surface either but thankfully nothing rotten or soft spots. It took a good 40-50 hours of work, and it was extremely messy, I wouldn't do it again. But now since it's been repainted and coated with surface shield (both in and out of the frame rails) I feel much better about it. We'll see how it fares this winter in quebec.
It smells like a goat farm for about three days after spraying. After that the stank goes away and leaves a pleasant smell like lotion, and later no smell at all. Non flammable, non toxic, non hazardous, etc. It will SMOKE off of the exhaust, but will not catch fire. Good stuff. Best product for Iowa winters.
Absolutely has an unique smell. Almost like melting crayons to me. But it works great as long as you don't hit the underside with any type of pressure wash. Even a drive through car wash will rinse it off over time.
@@vigilantemotors I've found that even if it looks like it got blasted off by pressure, it still leaves a very thin film behind that will protect for a while. Still best to revisit any high wear areas at first chance.
@@scootypuffjr. I agree and I think you said it perfect! High wear areas should be retreated especially if you live in areas where it snows. All in all its great stuff. I love it. Has helped save my 22 year old Jeep TJ! Thanks Scooty!
Been using Fluid Film on my vehicles for several years now and hoping it will help! One slight correction is regarding your comment on oil resistent rubber. FF is lanolin and not a petroleum product. I've read conflicting comments about older "real rubber" bushings and Fluid Film.
That's a good point. I'm not sure how it would react to the rubber on the older vehicles. I'm sure the newer cars have rubber that has been engineered to not degrade when in contact with chemicals. May have to do an experiment!
Nice video. I know a old timer who just uses old motor oil on his trucks and the rust hasn’t gotten any worse in the years he owned them. I don’t understand why people won’t spend the money to take care of there stuff. It pays off in the long run
So how do you recommend washing your car in winter with the fluid film applied? I typically will go to a self-service car wash and use their water and soap to power wash since my hose at home is shut off.
I live in Norway, the rust belt in Europe with more salty water than snow on the roads. I use the FF Gel BN on areas exposed to water splash from the tyres, on edges and welding spots with a thick, greasy layer, and It holdes up much, much better and longer than the sprayable FF. The rest of the underbody is sprayed with the sprayable FF film. Absolutely no signs of rust on my cars.
A thing to mention is that Fluidfilm is based on lanolin (wool fat). Sheep produce it to keep water out of their fur (wool). Pretty cool that it works on metal asw.
Fluid film is not a petroleum product; it's lanolin (natural oils in sheep's wool) it's generally safe on plastics and rubber. I used it in rust belt Ontario and it does work but i found it washes off too easily in exposed areas. Annual dripless rustproofing oil is my favourite -and it costs less.
My biggest gripe was how all of the dirt & sand was sticking to it, but here's the thing, it can only hold so much dirt, and any excess sand simply gets washed off when you drive in the rain.
That's also one of my biggest gripes. The frame looks amazing for about the first week then all that dirt and grime sticks to it. I would rather wash all that off than repair the rust though!
Great job with the vid BB. I've been doing this to my 05 Ram here in the Canadian winters for 12 or 13 yrs now. My truck is one of the few that looks as it does around my city. Rust Check is another product I use in all the pinch points in addition to fluid film. You may wanna look it up. spray it in the bottom of doors, rear hatch and inner quarters and fenders. Keeps my old vehicles looking good and rust free.
Are you getting it at Canadian Tire? So you’re using Fluid Film for under the truck and rocker panels etc, at Rust Check for surfaces like inside the door? I’m doing my first winter in the prairies with my first new truck.
@@jcabanaw YES, Can Tire for Fluid Film and Rust Check. Rust check inside all doors and hatches or anywhere the metal folds over and makes an edge. I've done this religiously for 12 + years. All my vehicles that are winter driven get this treatment. I will check the underside a couple times per winter to see if I need to re apply the fluid film on the bare/painted metal areas. I'm in Alberta, they salt the heck outta everything here after every snowfall.
@@jcabanaw Don't forget the inner fenders and rear quarters. I make sure it's clean and dry then apply liberal amounts. I don't pressure was those areas throughout winter as I want the protection to stay on. I'll re apply on warmer days and remove sand and mud my hand. It's worked for me and I've compared it to guys I work with that had the same vehicle. They've since sold theirs do to "rusting out" and mine still going strong with 2 minor rust areas the size of a dime on a 2005 dodge Ram. All the best and safe travels back and forth.
If it is self healing then why are all the rock scrapes rusting? I decided on Fluid Film inside frame, doors, and hard to reach areas- inside every visible hole. Surface Shield on exposed surfaces. That utilized each product's advantages. FF creeps and works well with nozzle tubes but it stinks and doesn't last long exposed. SS is thicker so it lasts longer exposed but is harder to spray in holes and nozzle can gum up if not kept warm. Doesn't smell as much on those open surfaces. Both are great products.
From my experience it creeps extremely well when new. As it ages, it becomes more of a wax and won't creep anymore. I agree that they're both great products
I'm gonna spray my 78' Marquis with Surface Sheild. It's a Minnesota car but doesn't have much for rust beside light surface. Hopefully it will preserve it through the winter.
I know I'll be looking into Surface Shield. It seems to be everyone's go to product right now. I haven't had any experience with it but, based on what I've heard, it'll do a great job preserve your Marquis this winter!
I live in a hot area +35 celsius. The FF dripped like runny mascara the very next afternoon... The shop recommends epoxy-mastic industrial marine coating used for vessels and metal structures and can also be used for vehicles and chassis. Will see how it goes
The best thing about fluid film is that it's non-toxic. It's basically lanolin, the grease from sheep wool. It doesn't contain solvents and it won't pollute the environment.
@@BustedBeaters yeah I just found out about surface shield from this other youtuber that reviews fluid film, woolwax, and surface shield and he says he's transitioning to surface shield
Used Fluid Film for 7+ years on my FJ Cruiser then Wool Wax starting in 2018 on my 4runner, every spring and fall... Woolwax is thicker and wont wash off, amazing results. Use it on the rims also, they look a little grungy during the New England winters but come spring after a really good cleaning like new.
Been spraying all my vehicles my whole life.Northeast Ontario.Just bought that WOOLWAX gun your using,deadly gun.Parrafin,wax base rustproofings are the best.I've tried them all over the years.
I agree, the Fluid Film does make under carraige repairs messy in most cases, but that's a cheap price to pay for rust protection. There is actually another product from PB Blaster (Surface Shield) that is supposed to be better, but it's hard to find because of the shortage or distribution we're facing now.
Yeah, I don't mind the mess knowing that my vehicle is protected. It's just more of an inconvenience. Everyone has been talking about surface shield! I purchased some and I have some test plates under the jeep right now. I want to know if it is actually better than Fluid Film. I'll make a video on it sometime around October.
@@BustedBeaters There is nothing special in SS. Just less Lanoline and more Vaseline. And tons of propellant to propel Vaseline. Can not be better of ff. I will stick with my combo Cosmoline and Lanoline.
Good video. The one thing that comes to mind though is you say it self heals, and you reapply, but anyplace that is scraped is rusty. You show the spots. That tells me the OE coatings are doing their job, but I’m not so sure about FF.
I definitely see your point. Just from my experience as the Fluid Film ages and collects dirt it becomes more of a wax coating making it so that if a rock were to scrape it. Both the factory coating and FF would be removed. The coating definitely spreads out when first sprayed but it looses this property as it ages. I made a video where I sprayed FF on bare metal and kept it under the Jeep for 2 years. There was no rust on the plate after this time despite not having any other coatings
I bought a mostly rust free 02 4Runner from Virginia. I’ve used fluid film and rp342 on it and for the past two years in Ohio it seems to be doing a great job!
@@vinylgroovin747 argh, I always spray the Cv boots and bushings… not intentionally but just try to cover the metals around/near them. I hope they will be ok. Today I even try to use Orange degreaser to remove some
I realized that the Toyota (and most car) rubbers and plastics are Nitrile, or oil-resistant, so they can withstand hydrocarbon/petro spraying@@vinylgroovin747
@@GusMahnI think surface shield smells like crap. The smell is present for 2 months after spraying and I can smell the truck from about ten feet away. Seems to stick better than FF. Kinda suspect too much spray can actually rot out cabs tho.
Thanks! I don't have any experience with any cosmoline products unfortunately. From what I researched a long time ago it can be difficult to remove which I wasn't a fan of.
Thanks! I do use fluid film a lot but I didn’t know that it came in big tubs. I’ll have to look into doing that to be more efficient and save money instead of buying a bunch of cans. I’m areas that don’t get a lot of water wash, like the engine, I see that stuff stay on the metal keeping it fresh for months!
Besides the cost, the tub and spray gun sprays a fan pattern as opposed to a stream like the cans. I've found that I get much better coverage using less product in less time this way.
Excellent product review. I have been in the petroleum business for 25 years along with lubricants. Fluid film uses the same base oil as chainsaw bar oil. This my friend is sheep fat! It has the best glue like factor naturally. This could be the “smell “ factor you were challenged with since the beginning. An excellent man made product using natural ingredients!
Good video - Fluid Film has excellent creep properties. But I would use something like Owatrol, Stuff witch hardens and lasts longer. Without additional layers you have to renew it every year, but that's not a big deal. The advantage is that you don't have to cover the car with wax and you can see everything clearly after a thorough wash. It's difficult decision for anyone who doesn't do anything on the car themselves - but ideal for DIY and People who work on their car regulary
I use Grapeseed Oil and it ls amazing! Reapply every year before winter. Just use a spray bottle. Grapeseed oil is a very high heat oil used to season Woks. It will also keep cast iron from rusting.
I'm planning to do this with my 04 TJ which has little rust as well as my brand new 24 4Runner I just picked up. I'm planning to use plastic sheeting draped over the body and masking taped around the lower edges to keep the overspray off. Also, instead of fluid film, I decided to go with Blaster's Surface Shield which seems to resist wash off a lot better than FF.
I've been spraying FF on my 94 F250 for the past 2 years, the frame stays wet even a year later when I apply the other coat, it's pretty rusted underneath and doesn't seem to be getting worse, I bought a 96 Jeep Cherokee XJ this year with absolutely no rust and I don't plan on parking it at all for the winter, gonna invest in a decent compressor and equipment to spray it myself so I can do a good thorough job and keep it young as long as possible
Oh yeah! Of you can get it coated before it starts rusting you'll be gold! A good air compressor and the spray gun makes all the difference. I used to go through a ton of cans and didn't get nearly the coverage
Thanks for a great video. Its somewhat of an inspiration. I’m contemplating spraying my Honda crv with Fluid Film using cans. I have done one other vehicle a few years ago, and the plastic panels were a pain in the a** both to get out and to reinstall. The clips kept breaking and the replacement ones I got did not fit, even though it said «fits most cars». The panels them selves felt kind of brittle too. Offroad vehicles look much easier to spray in that regard 😊
No problem! I would agree that off-road vehicles are much easier! It's so nice to just be able to crawl under it rather than having to jack up a car. You have to watch those "one size fits all" lol Plastic panels are very annoying. I bet if you went through the hassle of dropping the plastic and spraying just once and never touching it again, that the fluid film would hold up for a lot of years. I'd say that it would be worth it
I do not worry about getting dirty from working on my Jeeps. My YJ leaked so much when I bought it that everything was covered in oil. Side benefit is not much rust. Now I spray it to keep it nice.
No. We very respectfully disagree.. And we have thinner formulas, so it's not about "the sale". Some people tell us that they use the Woolwax™ for the undercarriage and some thinner (and smellier) brand for the cavities because they think it creeps better. That’s just not accurate. The traditional Woolwax™ creeps and migrates just as well and leaves a thicker coating as a thinner formula. It may take us a bit longer to get there, but Woolwax™ will travel to all the same nooks and crannies and leave a much thicker surface build on the way. Our chemists/consultants constantly recommend that we do not promote our thinner formulas for cavities because they leave very little "surface build". On enclosed areas surface build is everything. Thin formulas will creep and the surface build gets thinner all along the way until the coating is so thin, there is almost no surface build to provide protection. Bottom line.... original thick Woolwax™ (or any viscous coating) will provide better protection for enclosed areas (frame rails, etc.) than thin formulas that leave a very fine surface build. We manufacture a thinner version called Woolwax™ “LV” (low viscosity, same as FF) for those that insist on thinner product. But we don’t promote it much because it is not necessary. If for some reason you really want to thin out Woolwax™ for the inner cavities, all you need to do is add a bit of vegetable oil (Wesson, Mazzola, etc.) to the Woolwax™. Vegetable oil is very compatible with lanolin. 1/3 vegetable oil to 2/3 Woolwax™. The Woolwax™ quart bottles are 6”, so just fill the top 2” with vegetable oil.
Idk if you ever got any feedback about the ripples. But I get those on mine as well in the rear. It became a lot more pronounced after the 5th coat, so I think it’s just the way our rear tires shoot wind against the frame.
Never did find out exactly what the cause was. It's weird. A lot of people were predicting it was the brake lines leaking. I know this isn't the case though.
TIP - I just got feedback from Fluid Film and see the problem some folks are having. In its' resting state, Fluid Film will thicken over time. That's why in some videos it looks like pudding. Unfortunately, most guys are only STIRRING or MIXING the FF with a stick or paddle. That's not vigorous enough to change its' viscosity back to a pourable liquid. I would suggest a paint stirrer that inserts into an electric drill or, better yet, go over to Harbor Freight and buy their paint can shaker for $ 130. If you do your vehicle every year or have multiple vehicles then it would be worth the cost to get the FF back in the most liquid state it can be in so it sprays and covers better. Just my opinion.
NOT a waste of time and money. My 1977 (European) Ford Escort had gotten to the point where rust had gotten a hold in cavities and under, everywhere. Another year and extensive welding would have been required. FF just stopped it after a thorough treatment, I bought compressor, equipment and 8 liters of the stuff. Saved the car - I'm not a welder on that level. The weather here is wet and lots of salt used in winter. (have made plastic inner fenders in front, it had none originally)
Sounds like it was worth every penny! Pretty awesome it was able to save your car! It's wild how much it costs to repair the rust and once you start tearing into things you always find a lot more of it!
@@BustedBeaters Yes, now a little rust is said to be better for FF, makes it easier for it to go into metal pores. I tried to soak all cavities to make it creep in everywhere and get to the hidden rust. Seems to have worked.
So once this stuff is sprayed does that mean we should not do undercarriage washes? When we go thru a car wash? I live in the midwest, so dont wash it all during the winter season?
Heat the fluid film up before shooting it. I put a gallon jug of FF in a pot of warming water on my grill. It doesn’t need to be super hot, just raise the temp up to maybe 110 degrees. Heating it up it will shoot much easier.
Fluid Film works great, can't argue that. I went with RP-342 Heavy Cosmoline. It seems to address the main con of Fluid Film because it dries to a waxy finish.
I've never used it but, I hear the wax coatings work very well and last a long time. I also hear it is an absolute pain to remove which could be a good thing depending on how you look at it!
People seem to hate the smell, I thought it was odd but it never bothered me enough to mention it, and I’ve heard lots of people say that, wd40 has a smell too
Good video. I'm in New England and it's funny to hear someone in the south complaining about rust and salt roads. Just be glad they use salt and not calcium chloride. Fluid film is mostly lanolin. That's the stuff that makes sheeps wool waterproof. It works well as a rust preventer. You are right that it is nasty to work on things coated in it and that you have to reapply it yearly. As far as I know it is safe to spray on almost anything that doesn't get hot on a car. It is a natural oil and wax mix so don't get it on your brakes. If you want to remove it before you work on the car just use brake cleaner.
Thanks! I can only imagine what you guys go through up there. I was amazed at how destroyed the cars were when I visited NY. The brake cleaner is a good point. Wouldn't be hard clean up an area using it. I'll take the mess over the rust any day of the week!
@@BustedBeaters I don't trade in or sell my old cars. I don't have to, they turn into dust in my driveway and blow away in the wind. Maybe it isn't that bad but it isn't far off. A friend of mine just replaced the cab on an 07 truck with 30k miles on it. The cab mounts had all rotted off and the cab was free floating on the frame.
FF "softens" the OEM undercoating. After is softens up, you can easily scratch is off. You can try a new product called surface shield by blaster. Its just like FF, but they add Vaseline to it, to make it stick on longer.
That's what I've been experiencing. Not too sure how that factory undercoating would last normally though. I have heard a lot about surface shield. Going to have to check it out!
Surface Shield is good for inside the doors and frame rails because it's so thin and will creep better. But I still like Fluid Film for the majority of my coating because it's thicker. A product out of New Hampshire called NH Oil makes a really thick stuff you can spread on the inside of your wheel wells with a brush, and the tire spray won't wash it off like the FF does.
For my Syncro I started by galvanizing all the sheet metal parts. For the cavities I used Mike Sanders, don't know if that's a thing in your country? From what you're telling about FF I think I would use it supplementary to Mike Sanders for everything but the cavities. Mike Sanders is more greasy than FF and having a thick film of grease on everything is nasty. However you have to warm it before applying it.
I just looked it up. Never heard of Mike Sanders before. That stuff does seem very thick. I can see why you would need to heat it up first! I imagine that it would do very well in the cavities. Unfortunately I don't see an easy way to get it where I'm at.
Have a 2019 Jeep Wrangler that's waiting for fluid film before winter. I'm interested in the spraying rocker panels inside, did you drill holes on the door sills? Thanks.
The bubbles in the paint are likely from mill scale that was not removed before the paint process. Its probably rusting under both the mill scale and paint. Check it and fix it sooner than later if that's the case.
I get my Tacoma sprayed with “Krown” rust protection every year since new. I’ve got no rust whatsoever even on the east coast of Canada. There’s nowhere here that does FF professionally. Krown has a warranty where they’ll fix any rust that breaks out on your vehicle as long as you get it done once a year since it was new. I’ve seen 20 year old Hondas that were “Krown’d” and looked new. That’s unheard of around here.
Have used this for years at the port spraying ew agco an construction equipment being shipped overseas some of the equipment is at sea for months no problems will do my new Maverick this weekend the manufacturer says its good for three years i think it last longer
Would definitely rather work on fluid film covered parts than rust
I couldn't agree more!
Agreed, if it bothers you just use a little brake cleaner. Then spray fluid film back on when done.
Just bought a Tacoma and that's what I'm thinking for sure!
Nothing a box of nitrile gloves won't keep of your hands or an old t shirt can't wipe off of tools.
You'd only have to work on it when it is fresh. It washes off pretty quickly.
Been applying FF twice a year since day one . 19 year old 4 runner. Still looks great for its age. Great product
Tough winter? Any rust on your car?
why twice a year?
what about the door seals!, does it warp the rubber? like krown does.
@@Haddley333 best practice is once before and once after winter. Before winter should be obvious, after winter is usually after you clean off the winter grime then you give it a new coat again. Some people don't bother cleaning, during winter if you had driven over snow, it'll scrape off some coating, they just re-apply for the after winter months
ah okay makes sense when you put it that way @@gwot
I'm on year 8 with fluid film on my truck. I purchased my 2006 Silverado from Texas. It was rust free and low miles. I stripped the frame, and applied por 15 to it. Then every fall I apply fluid film in the rockers, wheel arches, doors, tail gate, hood, and front fenders. So far no rust. I also spray fluid film on top of the por 15 on the frame. The truck is holding up great with 160k miles.
If you plan on keeping a vehicle fluid film is the way to go.
We've been using Fluid Film for decades. What I love is, it's safe to spray on plastics, so you don't have to care if you get it all over connectors. Our vehicles and anything metal outside of our house are all corrosion free with annual applications.
It's a good thing it doesn't affect plastics. I spray it on EVERYTHING lol I can't imagine having to tape off certain areas or being extremely cautious when spraying
I pick up salt at one of the worlds largest salt mines. The forklift drivers use Fluid Film as their go to, for spraying on their machines and dock plates and other metal stuff around their shipping yard to prevent rust.
If it's good enough for those guys I'm sure it's good enough for me! That's a pretty harsh environment!
My business is Undercoating with fluid film, I have used it personally for over 8 years. It is an amazing product.
He says it washes off in the rain.
That csnnot be true, surely???
@@offshoretomorrow3346I’ve had fluid film on my vehicles and ran them through the hurricane last week and it’s still there.
THIS IS THE COMMENT YOU WAITED FOR! I worked in a gear shop, we had uncut gears which had been outside on our property for over 10 years, through Canadian winters. One day we finally had a reason to use them. They asked me to clean 1 off. It was covered with some coating. Nothing I did could remove it. They told me that I have to use Acetone, so I did, soak a rag, hold in on a small area for quite a while and then barely could I rub it off!! This stuff was Fluid Film. Problem with what you're doing in the video is. Fluid Film in a container IS WATER SOLUBLE. Fluid Film in a Spray Can IS NOT water soluble. On the gear was from a Spray Can. After all that time outdoors it was perfectly coated and rust free. I bought a new car and first thing I did was Buy 2 cans of Fluid Film and sprayed the entire bottom, including above the Spare tire that hangs, it's aircraft Cable and the rim of the spare. 9 years later when I sold it, underneath was still perfect! NO RUST, spare tire rim was like the day it was bought!! only lower control arm on the front had some rust, everything else was perfect! THAT"S THE DIFFERENCE!!! Water can not take off the spray can stuff... Only acetone stands any chance! I am sold for life on the Spray Can stuff!!! I would never have known unless I seen what my company uses. They told me why the Can is the only one they use to protect things.
Interesting.
This is interesting. I didn't think there was a difference between the cans and the bulk product. I'll have to look into this more!
When you say the cans you mean the 12oz spray cans right? Does that mean the stuff in the paint can isn't as good?
Interesting for sure. I recently read the opposite actually -- that the spray cans washed off easier than the Fluid Film that comes in the larger containers because they had propellant added (or something to that effect). Good to hear your experience.
I use it on my JK every year and I have absolutely no complaints and I’m still impressed with my 2013. Still looks new!
Just ran across this video and your channel for the first time. I got to say that no one else on RUclips has so thoroughly reviewed both the pros and cons of using fluid film. This video you posted is truly exceptional and a testament to your dedicated attention to detail and high degree of professionalism!! Very much appreciated!!
Really appreciate that. Just wanted to share my experience!
Jeep is in excellent shape! The thin barely painted axles and such from the factory are usually covered in crusty rust by now! Fluid Film did the job well!!
I would have to agree!
By far the most comprehensive demonstration and review of this product that I have seen. Thanks!!
Appreciate that!
I even replaced the KY jelly with fluid film. It's that damn good.......
Definitely agree on your point about sparing the high pressure wash in the winter time. Garden hose pressure is all you need until spring if you must wash.
I like to do my annual application while the weather is warm still to give time for the fluid film to migrate into the seams etc. sometimes I will reapply exposed areas in the middle of winter during a dry spell, but that’s a pretty quick task
Applying it while it's warm would be the way to go. I always seem to procrastinate until it's about 40 lol Can't say I would recommend it! Not fun! It is pretry amazing how much the stuff migrates.
I like it but it doesn't last long here in the pacific northwest. I have ordered a sprayer and will try mixing it with linseed oil, automatic transmission fluid, and some sort of grease.
@@mark2073 there are (were) 'grease and graphite' undercoats (for bottom only, not inside doors, rocker panels, etc.) used in Canada...lasted well enough some mechanics refused to work on car due to mess ( a 'good' mess). Some guys would make a home-made version by mixing asphalt undercoat with used engine oil, appllied with a schutz gun.
I picked up a used 2017 Tundra. I used the black Fluid Film (bought 5 gal bucket) and a sprayer. My Stepson is using it on his Tacoma. We have enough for a few years of reapplications. I expect it will greatly extend the life of these trucks here in South-Central New York State. I had a '97 T100 that was pretty well rotted out without any undercoating.
I wish I had a lift, it would make the job so much easier!
The 5 gallon bucket is the way to go! I've been using mine for a few years now and I still have some left. I imagine it will significantly extend the life of those trucks. A lift would be amazing but, I'm right there with ya. Crawling around on the ground lol
I agree 100%, FF is a great product. just for esthetics I like the FF black. What I personally do, is get my vehicles "Krowned" first. That stuff is so thin it creeps into the tightest of crevice's. Following years I FF, or "corrosion free", both are great products. Also I spray in the late spring, after rain has washed all salt off the roads and puddles, and I've had a chance to power spray any salts residue from under my cars. The heat of the summer will help thin it and have it creep! I'm in southern Ontario Canada, where they salt like crazy all winter long.
Only reason I switched from corrosion free to fluid film was the price. Corrosion free is getting quite expensive to buy in the USA.
I’m in Ontario too. I did Krown every year on a 2003 Buick I bought 3 years ago but it did not stop my car from rusting. I had no rust when I bought the car. Would you suggest Krown, then maybe a month later doing fluid film?
I do an annual application of fluid film on my wife’s XJ as well as my own. I like to get that done while the weather is warm and dry to give it time to migrate into the seams.
When the sun appears during the winter, I use nothing more than garden hose pressure to spray the salt crust off of areas that I can reach underneath, but otherwise I’ll wait until spring to go high-pressure
I wish I was on top of it as much as you are! Usually once the temperature dipps below 30 I remember I need to spray the jeep lol. I can't say it's an enjoyable task in the cold. Amd the fluid film does creep much better in the heat.
I just did this to my 1 year old Jeep. No rust, and I want to keep it that way. I actually like the smell.
I am at 350,000 miles on my Taco. Surface rust only on my frame. What would you recommend as a prep prior to start using Fluid film? Ospho? just clean with a pressure washer? Sanding? A liquid prep such as you would use prior to painting?
I would be willing to bet that most people would say to just apply the Fluid Film to the frame as it is. I've always tried to clean most of the dirt off before applying. Unless the frame is covered in dirt, I don't think it has a huge difference on the performance. I have some rust on my truck and I plan on removing as much of it as possible and painting the surface before applying the FF.
Good review. Wisconsin 2nd gen ram owner here. This product just works. I have spent a life time of research on rust bullet, corroseal, por 15, rust this...rust that. Long story short, fluid film, stainless steal, or no winter.
winter aint the problem. road salt is the problem.
@@zillatattoo No shit...
Hot dip galvanizing work to and Cosmoline work directly over rust.
I'm down in NC, so I don't have the road salt to deal with. BUT, I do have the saltwater when I take it on the beach. I've had my jeep for about 7 years and it is getting crusty on the bottom side for the beach. I have considered doing the fluid film treatment, but my biggest reservation has been the slick oily coating on the underside of the jeep when working on it.
Looks like I'll have to get past that and start spraying it with the fluid film. Thanks for taking the time to post this up.
Not a problem! It takes a little bit of getting used to but, I would say the mess is well worth the protection. You'll be happy you sprayed it!
In Pa there is a lot of garages that will spray oil on the bottom of vehicles worked with a guy that had a 24 yr old Toyota truck with no rust holes anywhere and he had it sprayed every year
It looks like the Fluid Film and the skid plates are doing their jobs. Good job. I don't understand people that spend so much money on those vehicles not protecting them.
Thank you! It's amazing how fast rust can take over!
The dealers and manufacturers will tell you no undercoating needed. Don’t undercoat with something that encapsulates the frame. It will rust under the coating.
@@johnoberle9750 Rubberized undercoating do that. I wouldn't go near that stuff.
You would think that the factory would apply a similar protection before shipping the car out.
A lot of people just don’t know about it, including me when I used to live in Michigan. Now I live in the south and don’t have to really worry about salted roads. They do occasionally spray a brine solution on bridges during the winter. I started to fluid film under my Chevy where my floor jack and dealer lifts have wiped away the factory applied wax and the hitch.
I bought a spray system from Lemmer to apply fluid film. It was expensive, but I'm spraying a dozen vehicles so year or more, so I needed something good.
To fight the smell, I've been adding a product from Power Plus lubricants. It's a fuel scent additive called Cherry Bomb. There are many other scents available too, I just like the cherry one. I mix in 2 or 3 ounces into a 5 gallon pail of fluid film using a paint paddle on a drill. Works great.
Pretty good idea. I'm going to have to give this a shot!
Thanks for posting! spent the better part of the day doing our new Ram yesterday. I expect that next year will go faster, definitely a learning curve.
Yes there is a learning curve for sure! It gets easier every year. Home the Ram holds up nicely for you!
I got a 3 year old Ram. I paid NH oil the first year but been doing myself the last 2. Been using Wool wax.
I have never used wool wax but I would be interested in seeing how it works
@@BustedBeaters It's lanolin based like fluid film but a little thicker, sticks better. Both do the job though. I bought a 5 gallon bucket, will last me several years.
I've been using fluid film on my 2004 F350 since 2017 and it's kept it showroom new after all these south jersey winters.
Just did my newly acquired 2007 4runner last month, i had a LOT of rust to remove and clean, and it wasn't all surface either but thankfully nothing rotten or soft spots. It took a good 40-50 hours of work, and it was extremely messy, I wouldn't do it again. But now since it's been repainted and coated with surface shield (both in and out of the frame rails) I feel much better about it. We'll see how it fares this winter in quebec.
It smells like a goat farm for about three days after spraying. After that the stank goes away and leaves a pleasant smell like lotion, and later no smell at all. Non flammable, non toxic, non hazardous, etc. It will SMOKE off of the exhaust, but will not catch fire. Good stuff. Best product for Iowa winters.
Absolutely has an unique smell. Almost like melting crayons to me. But it works great as long as you don't hit the underside with any type of pressure wash. Even a drive through car wash will rinse it off over time.
@@vigilantemotors I've found that even if it looks like it got blasted off by pressure, it still leaves a very thin film behind that will protect for a while. Still best to revisit any high wear areas at first chance.
@@scootypuffjr. I agree and I think you said it perfect! High wear areas should be retreated especially if you live in areas where it snows.
All in all its great stuff. I love it. Has helped save my 22 year old Jeep TJ!
Thanks Scooty!
Been using Fluid Film on my vehicles for several years now and hoping it will help! One slight correction is regarding your comment on oil resistent rubber. FF is lanolin and not a petroleum product. I've read conflicting comments about older "real rubber" bushings and Fluid Film.
That's a good point. I'm not sure how it would react to the rubber on the older vehicles. I'm sure the newer cars have rubber that has been engineered to not degrade when in contact with chemicals. May have to do an experiment!
Nice video. I know a old timer who just uses old motor oil on his trucks and the rust hasn’t gotten any worse in the years he owned them. I don’t understand why people won’t spend the money to take care of there stuff. It pays off in the long run
Thank you! Yeah that's what I figure. Put in a little time and money now and hopefully it'll pay off in the long run!
Oil can eat rubber components
@@dpok69 so can fluid film, so they say.
@@mikecollins9789 I thought they said it would not, it's sheep lanolin.
@@dpok69 rather deal with some minor rubber issues than rebuilding rush floors frames panels .
So how do you recommend washing your car in winter with the fluid film applied? I typically will go to a self-service car wash and use their water and soap to power wash since my hose at home is shut off.
Review after 4 years is Great Information !!
Thanks for posting
I do my own repair work and maintenance, and I appreciate that I've never had a frozen fastener using this product.
I have the same experience, had zero stuck fasteners after i started using fluid film for general maintenance.
I live in Norway, the rust belt in Europe with more salty water than snow on the roads.
I use the FF Gel BN on areas exposed to water splash from the tyres, on edges and welding spots with a thick, greasy layer, and It holdes up much, much better and longer than the sprayable FF. The rest of the underbody is sprayed with the sprayable FF film. Absolutely no signs of rust on my cars.
Will do the same. Greeting from sweden.
Excellent quality review I like how you’re straight to the point. Thanks for the info!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
A thing to mention is that Fluidfilm is based on lanolin (wool fat). Sheep produce it to keep water out of their fur (wool). Pretty cool that it works on metal asw.
Yeah it is pretty wild!
great job on the review! I agree, it works great, Its a must do in snow country if you want to keep a vehicle rust free
Thank you!
Fluid film is not a petroleum product; it's lanolin (natural oils in sheep's wool) it's generally safe on plastics and rubber. I used it in rust belt Ontario and it does work but i found it washes off too easily in exposed areas. Annual dripless rustproofing oil is my favourite -and it costs less.
My question is do you run your vehicle thru a car wash with an undercarriage wash or without the undercarriage wash in the winter?
Good review. Gotta do it every year means I gotta find another product. Thanks for your knowledge!
My biggest gripe was how all of the dirt & sand was sticking to it, but here's the thing, it can only hold so much dirt, and any excess sand simply gets washed off when you drive in the rain.
That's also one of my biggest gripes. The frame looks amazing for about the first week then all that dirt and grime sticks to it. I would rather wash all that off than repair the rust though!
That actually will help protect the frame and you can easily wash it off with a pressure washer if needed
Great job with the vid BB. I've been doing this to my 05 Ram here in the Canadian winters for 12 or 13 yrs now. My truck is one of the few that looks as it does around my city. Rust Check is another product I use in all the pinch points in addition to fluid film. You may wanna look it up. spray it in the bottom of doors, rear hatch and inner quarters and fenders. Keeps my old vehicles looking good and rust free.
Thank you! I have never heard of rust check before. I'm going to have to check it out!
Are you getting it at Canadian Tire? So you’re using Fluid Film for under the truck and rocker panels etc, at Rust Check for surfaces like inside the door? I’m doing my first winter in the prairies with my first new truck.
@@jcabanaw YES, Can Tire for Fluid Film and Rust Check. Rust check inside all doors and hatches or anywhere the metal folds over and makes an edge. I've done this religiously for 12 + years. All my vehicles that are winter driven get this treatment. I will check the underside a couple times per winter to see if I need to re apply the fluid film on the bare/painted metal areas. I'm in Alberta, they salt the heck outta everything here after every snowfall.
@@Gmanndogdeguy Thanks for the reply! You’re gonna save my truck! Im in both provinces. Live in Sk and work in AB.
@@jcabanaw Don't forget the inner fenders and rear quarters. I make sure it's clean and dry then apply liberal amounts. I don't pressure was those areas throughout winter as I want the protection to stay on. I'll re apply on warmer days and remove sand and mud my hand. It's worked for me and I've compared it to guys I work with that had the same vehicle. They've since sold theirs do to "rusting out" and mine still going strong with 2 minor rust areas the size of a dime on a 2005 dodge Ram. All the best and safe travels back and forth.
So: no critical cons to worry about and near perfect protection. Glad to know, Thanks for confirming! 👍
Great video, review and analysis! Your Jeep looks great. Well done!
If it is self healing then why are all the rock scrapes rusting? I decided on Fluid Film inside frame, doors, and hard to reach areas- inside every visible hole. Surface Shield on exposed surfaces. That utilized each product's advantages. FF creeps and works well with nozzle tubes but it stinks and doesn't last long exposed. SS is thicker so it lasts longer exposed but is harder to spray in holes and nozzle can gum up if not kept warm. Doesn't smell as much on those open surfaces. Both are great products.
From my experience it creeps extremely well when new. As it ages, it becomes more of a wax and won't creep anymore. I agree that they're both great products
I'm gonna spray my 78' Marquis with Surface Sheild. It's a Minnesota car but doesn't have much for rust beside light surface. Hopefully it will preserve it through the winter.
I know I'll be looking into Surface Shield. It seems to be everyone's go to product right now. I haven't had any experience with it but, based on what I've heard, it'll do a great job preserve your Marquis this winter!
I live in a hot area +35 celsius.
The FF dripped like runny mascara the very next afternoon...
The shop recommends epoxy-mastic industrial marine coating used for vessels and metal structures and can also be used for vehicles and chassis.
Will see how it goes
That's interesting! I've never had this happen but I always apply in the spring when the weather cools off
I've watched so many of these Fluid Film videos and they're ALL positive, every one👌, appears this oil is incredible stuff.
I've been pretty happy with the results I have been getting! I have no problems recommending it!
I use Surface Shield on my GX470. Have to protect the frame against New England winters. That stuff is amazing!
The best thing about fluid film is that it's non-toxic. It's basically lanolin, the grease from sheep wool. It doesn't contain solvents and it won't pollute the environment.
Use woolwax if you're going to go through water. Its the same as fluidfilm just a little thicker and isn't washed off
Or sufaceshield I havent tried it but heard its the best
I haven't heard of Surfaceshield.I'll have to look into that. I know that woolwax is pretty popular as well. May have to try that next year!
@@BustedBeaters yeah I just found out about surface shield from this other youtuber that reviews fluid film, woolwax, and surface shield and he says he's transitioning to surface shield
Yeah I just looked it up. Seems like a pretty good product
Used Fluid Film for 7+ years on my FJ Cruiser then Wool Wax starting in 2018 on my 4runner, every spring and fall... Woolwax is thicker and wont wash off, amazing results. Use it on the rims also, they look a little grungy during the New England winters but come spring after a really good cleaning like new.
I have used LPS3 for the past decade. Tyvek suits help a lot. Easy peasy, thanks for sharing.
Been spraying all my vehicles my whole life.Northeast Ontario.Just bought that WOOLWAX gun your using,deadly gun.Parrafin,wax base rustproofings are the best.I've tried them all over the years.
I've been debating switching to a wax based product. Do you have any issues removing it if needed?
I agree, the Fluid Film does make under carraige repairs messy in most cases, but that's a cheap price to pay for rust protection. There is actually another product from PB Blaster (Surface Shield) that is supposed to be better, but it's hard to find because of the shortage or distribution we're facing now.
Yeah, I don't mind the mess knowing that my vehicle is protected. It's just more of an inconvenience. Everyone has been talking about surface shield! I purchased some and I have some test plates under the jeep right now. I want to know if it is actually better than Fluid Film. I'll make a video on it sometime around October.
@@BustedBeaters There is nothing special in SS. Just less Lanoline and more Vaseline. And tons of propellant to propel Vaseline. Can not be better of ff. I will stick with my combo Cosmoline and Lanoline.
@@BustedBeaters Looking forward to your results for sure.
@@zell863 it’s more sticky and doesn’t come off with road spray - also last 2 years
@@yoho1021proven to be better?
Better to replace a boot or a bushing than replace a vehicle! Nice job man. Should last for years if you stay on top of it. Good video 👍👍
Appreciate it! I couldn't agree more
Good video. The one thing that comes to mind though is you say it self heals, and you reapply, but anyplace that is scraped is rusty. You show the spots. That tells me the OE coatings are doing their job, but I’m not so sure about FF.
I definitely see your point. Just from my experience as the Fluid Film ages and collects dirt it becomes more of a wax coating making it so that if a rock were to scrape it. Both the factory coating and FF would be removed. The coating definitely spreads out when first sprayed but it looses this property as it ages. I made a video where I sprayed FF on bare metal and kept it under the Jeep for 2 years. There was no rust on the plate after this time despite not having any other coatings
Fluid Film is the absolute best!!
Is it still the exact same from the stuff garages spry compare to the stuff on Amazon?
Add peppermint extract ( or any scent) to the mix.
I got the idea from south main auto channel.
Works nice
That's not a bad idea. I'll have to keep that in mind! Thanks!
I wonder if that would help keep rodents away. They don't like peppermint.
It also softens up some of the seam sealers on my Subaru.
I didn't think about the seam sealers. I'll have to keep an eye on them.
I use KROWN T40. My 1999 that I bought new is still on the road with very little rust.
going with the natural color FF for my TRX. Great video
Thanks for sharing about this product.
I bought a mostly rust free 02 4Runner from Virginia. I’ve used fluid film and rp342 on it and for the past two years in Ohio it seems to be doing a great job!
Glad to hear! It's pretty good stuff! I've been happy with it!
Cosmoline right? How do you spray it? Just everywhere? Or you take off all the rubbers…which is what I don’t like to do.
@ejshelby5460 It comes in a spray rattle can. No I just try to avoid spraying on any rubber. I just aim directly for the frame and wheel wells
@@vinylgroovin747 argh, I always spray the Cv boots and bushings… not intentionally but just try to cover the metals around/near them. I hope they will be ok. Today I even try to use Orange degreaser to remove some
I realized that the Toyota (and most car) rubbers and plastics are Nitrile, or oil-resistant, so they can withstand hydrocarbon/petro spraying@@vinylgroovin747
I'm giving Surface Shield a try. People say it is more resistant to pressure washing, and they say it only needs touching up every 2 years.
I have been hearing a lot about surface shield as well. I'm currently running an experiment now to see how different the two products truly are
Surface Shield is much better and it doesn't smell like baby sh**.
@@GusMahnI think surface shield smells like crap. The smell is present for 2 months after spraying and I can smell the truck from about ten feet away. Seems to stick better than FF. Kinda suspect too much spray can actually rot out cabs tho.
I just gave my '23 Maverick a full surface shield treatment. We'll see how it holds up against Wisconsin's heavily seasoned winter roads. 🤞🤞
@@TonicofSonic I did my treatment yesterday. I kind of like the smell.
Nice video, thanks mate. What is your experience/ opinion about Cosmoline products ?
Thanks! I don't have any experience with any cosmoline products unfortunately. From what I researched a long time ago it can be difficult to remove which I wasn't a fan of.
Thanks! I do use fluid film a lot but I didn’t know that it came in big tubs. I’ll have to look into doing that to be more efficient and save money instead of buying a bunch of cans. I’m areas that don’t get a lot of water wash, like the engine, I see that stuff stay on the metal keeping it fresh for months!
Besides the cost, the tub and spray gun sprays a fan pattern as opposed to a stream like the cans. I've found that I get much better coverage using less product in less time this way.
Excellent product review. I have been in the petroleum business for 25 years along with lubricants. Fluid film uses the same base oil as chainsaw bar oil. This my friend is sheep fat! It has the best glue like factor naturally. This could be the “smell “ factor you were challenged with since the beginning. An excellent man made product using natural ingredients!
Thank you! I actually never knew that about chainsaw bar oil. Makes sense though. They do have very similarly properties
Good video - Fluid Film has excellent creep properties. But I would use something like Owatrol, Stuff witch hardens and lasts longer. Without additional layers you have to renew it every year, but that's not a big deal. The advantage is that you don't have to cover the car with wax and you can see everything clearly after a thorough wash. It's difficult decision for anyone who doesn't do anything on the car themselves - but ideal for DIY and People who work on their car regulary
I switched from Fluid Film to CRC. Better protection and it doesn’t wash off. Give it a try.
Lol fluid film doesn’t wash off either.
@@Godisgr8always CRC lasts on surfaces much longer and protects better.
@@ToddTinley which CRC?
CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor@@Godisgr8always
Genius invention. Use once, reapply annually.
Thats income security for Fluid film
You're not wrong lol
True, but there are not many good alternatives ,except maybe better metal alloys or designs that doesnt promote rust from the factory.
I use Grapeseed Oil and it ls amazing! Reapply every year before winter. Just use a spray bottle.
Grapeseed oil is a very high heat oil used to season Woks. It will also keep cast iron from rusting.
Interesting. I imagine this is a fairly cheap option as well. So if it's working for you I'd keep on using it!
I'm planning to do this with my 04 TJ which has little rust as well as my brand new 24 4Runner I just picked up. I'm planning to use plastic sheeting draped over the body and masking taped around the lower edges to keep the overspray off. Also, instead of fluid film, I decided to go with Blaster's Surface Shield which seems to resist wash off a lot better than FF.
Both Fluid Film and Surface Shield are great products!
I use Blaster's Surface Shield 🛡️ first then I Fluid Film on top .
Reason because Surface Shield creeps more and is harder to wash off
I've been spraying FF on my 94 F250 for the past 2 years, the frame stays wet even a year later when I apply the other coat, it's pretty rusted underneath and doesn't seem to be getting worse, I bought a 96 Jeep Cherokee XJ this year with absolutely no rust and I don't plan on parking it at all for the winter, gonna invest in a decent compressor and equipment to spray it myself so I can do a good thorough job and keep it young as long as possible
Oh yeah! Of you can get it coated before it starts rusting you'll be gold! A good air compressor and the spray gun makes all the difference. I used to go through a ton of cans and didn't get nearly the coverage
I’ve been spraying my 2016 ram and it works great. I do spray 2x a year.
Excellent review. Thanks for the work you put into it.
Thank you!
Good stuff. I use it too.
Thanks for a great video. Its somewhat of an inspiration. I’m contemplating spraying my Honda crv with Fluid Film using cans. I have done one other vehicle a few years ago, and the plastic panels were a pain in the a** both to get out and to reinstall. The clips kept breaking and the replacement ones I got did not fit, even though it said «fits most cars». The panels them selves felt kind of brittle too. Offroad vehicles look much easier to spray in that regard 😊
No problem! I would agree that off-road vehicles are much easier! It's so nice to just be able to crawl under it rather than having to jack up a car. You have to watch those "one size fits all" lol Plastic panels are very annoying. I bet if you went through the hassle of dropping the plastic and spraying just once and never touching it again, that the fluid film would hold up for a lot of years. I'd say that it would be worth it
I do not worry about getting dirty from working on my Jeeps. My YJ leaked so much when I bought it that everything was covered in oil. Side benefit is not much rust. Now I spray it to keep it nice.
I can relate! I have a few spots under my vehicles that are completely rust free due to leaks!
did you try the new blaster surface shield? The stuff passed the pressure washing test
I did try it! I'll be putting out a video here in a couple of weeks comparing it to Fluid Film
I AM EXCITED! LOOKING FOWARD TO IT! God bless!@@BustedBeaters
Wool wax for under the vehicle and fluid film for small areas ( nooks and crannies) works the best
I have never used wool wax but I hear it is thicker. Would make sense to use it where you can
No. We very respectfully disagree.. And we have thinner formulas, so it's not about "the sale". Some people tell us that they use the Woolwax™ for the undercarriage and some thinner (and smellier) brand for the cavities because they think it creeps better. That’s just not accurate. The traditional Woolwax™ creeps and migrates just as well and leaves a thicker coating as a thinner formula. It may take us a bit longer to get there, but Woolwax™ will travel to all the same nooks and crannies and leave a much thicker surface build on the way.
Our chemists/consultants constantly recommend that we do not promote our thinner formulas for cavities because they leave very little "surface build".
On enclosed areas surface build is everything. Thin formulas will creep and the surface build gets thinner all along the way until the coating is so thin, there is almost no surface build to provide protection.
Bottom line.... original thick Woolwax™ (or any viscous coating) will provide better protection for enclosed areas (frame rails, etc.) than thin formulas that leave a very fine surface build.
We manufacture a thinner version called Woolwax™ “LV” (low viscosity, same as FF) for those that insist on thinner product. But we don’t promote it much because it is not necessary.
If for some reason you really want to thin out Woolwax™ for the inner cavities, all you need to do is add a bit of vegetable oil (Wesson, Mazzola, etc.) to the Woolwax™. Vegetable oil is very compatible with lanolin. 1/3 vegetable oil to 2/3 Woolwax™. The Woolwax™ quart bottles are 6”, so just fill the top 2” with vegetable oil.
Wow looks almost brand new!
Idk if you ever got any feedback about the ripples. But I get those on mine as well in the rear. It became a lot more pronounced after the 5th coat, so I think it’s just the way our rear tires shoot wind against the frame.
Never did find out exactly what the cause was. It's weird. A lot of people were predicting it was the brake lines leaking. I know this isn't the case though.
I just use Self Etching Primer.
TIP - I just got feedback from Fluid Film and see the problem some folks are having. In its' resting state, Fluid Film will thicken over time. That's why in some videos it looks like pudding. Unfortunately, most guys are only STIRRING or MIXING the FF with a stick or paddle. That's not vigorous enough to change its' viscosity back to a pourable liquid. I would suggest a paint stirrer that inserts into an electric drill or, better yet, go over to Harbor Freight and buy their paint can shaker for $ 130. If you do your vehicle every year or have multiple vehicles then it would be worth the cost to get the FF back in the most liquid state it can be in so it sprays and covers better. Just my opinion.
Heat the FF up to around 110 degrees and it will thin. I put a gallon can of FF in a warming pot of water on my grill.
NOT a waste of time and money. My 1977 (European) Ford Escort had gotten to the point where rust had gotten a hold in cavities and under, everywhere. Another year and extensive welding would have been required. FF just stopped it after a thorough treatment, I bought compressor, equipment and 8 liters of the stuff. Saved the car - I'm not a welder on that level. The weather here is wet and lots of salt used in winter. (have made plastic inner fenders in front, it had none originally)
Sounds like it was worth every penny! Pretty awesome it was able to save your car! It's wild how much it costs to repair the rust and once you start tearing into things you always find a lot more of it!
@@BustedBeaters Yes, now a little rust is said to be better for FF, makes it easier for it to go into metal pores. I tried to soak all cavities to make it creep in everywhere and get to the hidden rust. Seems to have worked.
So once this stuff is sprayed does that mean we should not do undercarriage washes? When we go thru a car wash? I live in the midwest, so dont wash it all during the winter season?
I don't touch the underside at all during the winter. I'll still keep up with keeping the body clean though
Where do you get that extra long extension that fits on to aerosol cans?
I use white lithium grease where you can’t see. And WD40 everywhere else. I have a 2013 Honda Ridgeline and get offers to sell it often.
Heat the fluid film up before shooting it. I put a gallon jug of FF in a pot of warming water on my grill. It doesn’t need to be super hot, just raise the temp up to maybe 110 degrees. Heating it up it will shoot much easier.
That's a good idea. I'm almost always spraying it when it's cold out. I'm sure this would help a lot!
Fluid Film works great, can't argue that. I went with RP-342 Heavy Cosmoline. It seems to address the main con of Fluid Film because it dries to a waxy finish.
I've never used it but, I hear the wax coatings work very well and last a long time. I also hear it is an absolute pain to remove which could be a good thing depending on how you look at it!
People seem to hate the smell, I thought it was odd but it never bothered me enough to mention it, and I’ve heard lots of people say that, wd40 has a smell too
Yeah I've become very used to it. WD-40 doesn't bother me at all. I also don't have a 5 gallon bucket of it laying around either though lol.
Ya lol. Definitely a great product! Hoping is saves my dump trailer from being rotten in a few years lol
Good video. I'm in New England and it's funny to hear someone in the south complaining about rust and salt roads. Just be glad they use salt and not calcium chloride. Fluid film is mostly lanolin. That's the stuff that makes sheeps wool waterproof. It works well as a rust preventer. You are right that it is nasty to work on things coated in it and that you have to reapply it yearly.
As far as I know it is safe to spray on almost anything that doesn't get hot on a car. It is a natural oil and wax mix so don't get it on your brakes. If you want to remove it before you work on the car just use brake cleaner.
Thanks! I can only imagine what you guys go through up there. I was amazed at how destroyed the cars were when I visited NY. The brake cleaner is a good point. Wouldn't be hard clean up an area using it. I'll take the mess over the rust any day of the week!
@@BustedBeaters I don't trade in or sell my old cars. I don't have to, they turn into dust in my driveway and blow away in the wind. Maybe it isn't that bad but it isn't far off.
A friend of mine just replaced the cab on an 07 truck with 30k miles on it. The cab mounts had all rotted off and the cab was free floating on the frame.
🤣 that's exactly how I picture it!
FF "softens" the OEM undercoating. After is softens up, you can easily scratch is off. You can try a new product called surface shield by blaster. Its just like FF, but they add Vaseline to it, to make it stick on longer.
That's what I've been experiencing. Not too sure how that factory undercoating would last normally though. I have heard a lot about surface shield. Going to have to check it out!
@@BustedBeaters Does any stores sell Surface shield?
I believe Home Depot does. Not sure what other stores have it.
Surface Shield is good for inside the doors and frame rails because it's so thin and will creep better. But I still like Fluid Film for the majority of my coating because it's thicker. A product out of New Hampshire called NH Oil makes a really thick stuff you can spread on the inside of your wheel wells with a brush, and the tire spray won't wash it off like the FF does.
Oh Billy TV *Do, not does.
RUST is a major issue here in IOWA. Looks like a great idea!
For my Syncro I started by galvanizing all the sheet metal parts. For the cavities I used Mike Sanders, don't know if that's a thing in your country?
From what you're telling about FF I think I would use it supplementary to Mike Sanders for everything but the cavities. Mike Sanders is more greasy than FF and having a thick film of grease on everything is nasty. However you have to warm it before applying it.
I just looked it up. Never heard of Mike Sanders before. That stuff does seem very thick. I can see why you would need to heat it up first! I imagine that it would do very well in the cavities. Unfortunately I don't see an easy way to get it where I'm at.
Have a 2019 Jeep Wrangler that's waiting for fluid film before winter. I'm interested in the spraying rocker panels inside, did you drill holes on the door sills? Thanks.
I did not. My jeep was like that when I bought it. Not sure if those holes are factory or not
Totally agree. 👍
Been there and done that.
The bubbles in the paint are likely from mill scale that was not removed before the paint process. Its probably rusting under both the mill scale and paint. Check it and fix it sooner than later if that's the case.
Interesting. That very well could be it. I'll have to remove the paint and see if I find anything underneath
I get my Tacoma sprayed with “Krown” rust protection every year since new. I’ve got no rust whatsoever even on the east coast of Canada.
There’s nowhere here that does FF professionally.
Krown has a warranty where they’ll fix any rust that breaks out on your vehicle as long as you get it done once a year since it was new.
I’ve seen 20 year old Hondas that were “Krown’d” and looked new.
That’s unheard of around here.
Have used this for years at the port spraying ew agco an construction equipment being shipped overseas some of the equipment is at sea for months no problems will do my new Maverick this weekend the manufacturer says its good for three years i think it last longer
This is good to hear!