Same here, in Michigan...my truck looks great. I also never wash it all winter. Car washes around here just rinse your car with recycled salt water. I wash it at home in the spring, and wax it in the fall.
@@michiganman845Yes, also do not take it to car wash as the pressure wash will take off the coating. -A fellow Michigander who fluidfilms and does not wash all winter
@@michiganman845 Yeah, the recycled salt water is the worst thing for your vehicle. I've wanted to drive my 1986 CUCV the last couple Winters but have not (since its never been undercoated). My plan is to use this undercoating process this coming Spring so I can drive my Blazer through the Winter.
Good video--would have been nice to see a control as well. A third, untreated metal plate, just to see how badly it would rust under the same conditions/time without any product on it at all.
Yeah I should have thrown one under there just to see. I originally thought that it would take away form the comparison so I didn't make the 3rd plate.
I had my 2022 Cadillac coated with fluid film black for underneath and clear for under the hood and all doors. I went back to the installer 1 year later to do a recoat if needed and I was shocked on how well the fluid film was still applied AND there is absolutely no rust anywhere! So glad we went with this product for I see it protecting my car for years to come.
I waited ... and couldn't wait for this!!!! I was so excited you released it. Saw the original video by you and was impressed... even more impressed you took the time to do a long term test AND FOLLOWED THROUGH!!! Thanks...
Here in upstate NY I find that Fluid Film washes off the underside of the body and all of the suspension parts in a few months of winter driving. FF is fantastic on interior panels like doors and fenders above the wheel well liners. It also is great on box sections in the chassis. Surface Shield really holds up on the under body. The combination of the two work great together.
This is what I was wondering. FF is 100% lanolin, whereas Surface Shield is "Lanolin based". Meaning there's other stuff in there. I don't want to have have to wonder if it may damage rubber, so it's FF for me as always.
Excellent comparison! The nice thing about both products not being petroleum based is that they will not degrade rubber or plastic. Thanks for the vid! -Glen
You'd think that. As a Fluid Filmer I can 100% say overtime (3 to 5 years) it softens rubber, softens plastic and will make your door seals sag. All of those are better than rust imo
@@BustedBeaters It appeared to fully stop the rust when I sprayed a rusted section on my Accord some years ago. As I continued to check it the corrosion never got worse.
I always rely on fluid film. Way to cheap and easy to use not to. I use maybe 3-4 aerosol cans a year, 30 bucks, and an hour of my time. Coats everything under the Tacoma and it hasn’t rusted, and what little rust was there when I bought the truck hasn’t spread or gotten worse. Definitely works. I love the fact that every year when I get under to spray everything still has that waxy feel and it’s still on there.
Great update. I used Fluid Film on my JK last year, and I’m doing my new to me truck with Surface Shield this year. Only reason for the switch is that the Surface Shield was on sale and $30 cheaper for 6 cans than the Fluid Film.
I think a product that picks up less dirt is a big plus. I have been doing undercoating for years and a problem I see is with cars that drive on dirt and gravel roads end up building up a lot of sand around the wheelwell areas. Most people do not bother to do any pressure washing and leads to a thick build up that holds moisture.
Yeah, I agree with this. I've seen several cars from Florida that have never been in snow a day in their lives. They rust out where the sand collects in the wheel wells like you said. The sand just holds that moisture against the metal.
@@BustedBeaters what is the best tool to clean out the wheel wells? I also had sand and dirt to collect behind one of the bodyside moulding strips because aftermarket fender trim was jammed into the front part of the moulding, which created a gap large enough for crud to build up. Now I have two rust holes to repair.
Fluid film doesn’t dry and that’s what I like, because it will “heal” any place it gets rubbed off because it spreads the longer it sits…I also watched a video where a guy tested every oil out there on a plate and left the plate outside for 6 months, pretty much all the competition disappeared except fluid film, which spread and grew 3x the size, and (what sold me) was on the backside of the steel the fluid film was coming through…THAT is the game changer!
😂You are right about that. It is extremely sutiable for cold climate because it will solitified when cold. I recall I travel to Montanna in summer and the fuild film I applied the previous fall start to melt. That is the moment I becomes a fuild film fanboy.
I apply fluid film in the spring and late fall just before winter after enough time goes by I think it actually penetrates into the steel. My mechanics love working on my rust free vehicles and the bolts come right off without a fight
If it was going through the metal how do they keep it in the can's wouldn't you be getting empty & or half full cans I mean if it goes through metal?! 🤔 Just a question
This is consistent with my results with fluid film. I'm going into my third winter on the original treatment, and there's still a nice film on the frame and it still looks good. I've done spot touch ups to the front of the frame a couple times since then, since that takes the brunt of wear, but I have to imagine that inside the frame still has a nice coating considering the outside of the frame still looks so good.
😂I used to fluid film. And I get the shop to apply it every year just for the heck of it. And it just keep building up over years. By the time I need to pull my transmission. The coat on the chassis is thick enough to become a layer of its own. Too bad, the shop I went to stop doing coating 3 years ago.
I think the spraying issue with Surface shield is due to how thick the product is. If the can gets too cold by just sitting in the garage it doesn't spray well or at all. Due to the aerosole not being able to carry something so thick, but if you warm up the can it returns to spraying as normal. (I left mine in front of a mini Space heater while i was working on my car) once the internal contents were warmed up the can returned to spraying as normal with zero issues. Hope this helps someone.
Yep, been using surface shield since it came out, first year with cans and ever since that with the undercoating gun and getting it in a gallon pail. Always keep the bottles of it warm, and using the spray gun means you don’t have to apply it as thick.
Good video. I have 5 work trucks, 2 trailers and a skid steer in NH and MA all sprayed with chainsaw oil (from a fluid film gun). Ages 1995, 1997, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015. Sprayed every year or every other year. No rust on anything bought new, VERY LITTLE rust on anything bought used. I use the fluid film and surface shield rattle cans for touch up and for skid steer implements. Very pleased with products. But unfortunately i have run into the spray problem with surface shield recently- probably 8-10 full cans that dont work. Good video, thanks again!!!
Ppreciate it!There's been a lot of people who have mentioned chain saw oil. It's pretty thick stuff so I imagine it does work well. The SS cans seem to be hit and miss for a lot of people
Great video btw! Commented 3 weeks ago. Came back for an update. Surface shield sucks in the cans. I had 6+ cans of it and not one of them would spray more than 5 seconds. I threw them all away. Trash. The fluid film cans spray perfectly. Amazon sells 5 gallon buckets of both and the Fluid Film is under $200 and Surface Shield is $275.
This is about the same experience I've had. Except for the SS cans clogging. I have nit had any clog but I haven't really used that many either! Thanks for stopping back in for the update!
I started using Fluid Film when they sent me a free can to test on my race jet ski. That was probably 10 years ago. If it can work on a saltwater jet ski, it can work anywhere.
Thanks for the in-depth video. I'm looking at getting a new Chevy Express van and this is definitely something I'm going to be spraying all over the underneath. Along with inside the door panels. Also removing any tape that actually traps the water inside the door panels as well.
I'm not paying 2 1/2 times the price for something that needs redone every two years. Fluid film will only require annual touch-up and costs around $45 a gallon. The critical inner surfaces will not erode. Surface shield is only a small percentage lanolin so lanolin-based is misleading at best. It is petroleum based with enough lanolin to impart a slight odor. Great video.
Looked up the SDS for Woolwax composition & ingredient information Lanolin 60-100% I sprayed 2 vehicles this year in 50 degree weather next time I'll do it on a 80+ degree day Doesn't drip off curious how well it'll do this winter, we have plenty of salt & sand here paid $70 per gallon little more expensive than Fluid film but people say woolwax smells better Great test BTW!
In regards to Surface Sheild cans , yes they plug up. You will have to remove the tip and blow it out with compressed air to get use of the full can. I just removed the 3 tips and rotated them until they all plugged up they blew them all out and continued.
My oil leak from the power steering pump and rear main seal keeps the bottom coated good till the next century. Great video and information for the next owners grandkids.
I bought a 1989 pickup truck with a lot of rust, but not too many perforated parts and a solid frame. One of the first things I did was to buy a gallon can of Fluid Film. It's not easy to get it everywhere, that's why I got a couple of aerosol cans too. It seems to be creeping right through the rust, which is exactly what I was hoping. The stuff isn't cheap, but loosing a truck to rust is worse. Years ago we were using petroleum products, which helped a lot, but also hardened the insulation of electrical wiring, which becomes a huge problem over time. I'm happy with Fluid Film.
3 years into surface shield. I sprayed year 1 and 2 haven't for a whole year. Going to see how things are holding up. I used 8 cans to do my truck had no clog issues. I did change the tips and used adapters for a hose to spray inside frame.
I love videos like this. This is the kind of dedication for information that makes RUclips awesome. I wish I could have coated my car the day I got it.
I’m preparing to use fluid film for the first time and I’m really glad that you’ve documented your experience with it! I’m also glad that you have tried the blaster version. I went with fluid film for its long track record but it seems like either would work well. Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience!
Good video man. My only wish was you pressure washed the "hardened" SS instead of using brake cleaner. Unless you have a steam cleaner, a pressure washer will struggle to remove the exposed surface shield. FF blows off instantly. Sponsored content or not turns out I wasn't lying 😁 Overall, excellent commitment, great testing, and awesome video. 10/10.
Hey! Thanks! I appreciate that! I didn't even think to pressure wash the plates. That would have been pretty interesting to see. The Surface Sheld turned more into a wax so I can pretty much guarantee I'd have to get pretty close with the pressure washer to get it to come off. I can confirm that Fluid Film can be removed with a pressure washer. A lot of comments I receive make it sound like FF is just going to instantly fall off a car driving through a puddle lol. Both SS and FF held up extremely well under normal driving conditions. At least in my experience. I wish I had a second set of plates to scratch the surface with and throw them back under the Jeep. I highly doubt either of them would creep after the two years but, I would be more likely to think that FF would offer more protection after being scratched. I have no evidence of this though. Either way I dont think either of these are intended to be a one and done kind of undercoating. Awww well, may have to make that video in another 2 years 😂. Anywho, love your videos! I've watched a ton of them! Keep them coming!
The creeping thing is very hard to quantify for testing. Ive looked into it. I pressed NHOU a little bit a few years ago about their creeping claims. If you look at their claims they always point out how far the residue crept. Like if you sprayed the bottom of a door, how far that residue creeps up the outside of the door... They never claim that the product residue that has crept offers any protection. How come they haven't shown corrosion resistance of "crept" product? They didn't have an answer, it's just a visual marketing thing in my opinion without any data to back it up. If you take those panels you used here and only spray the bottom half, the top is going to rust no matter the product. Doing a good job with the application is going to be a far greater factor in the success of the coating vs doing a crap job and expecting creeping action to take care of the parts you missed. Hope all that makes sense.
Yeah I'm with you. I was always wondering how much they actually crept. There has to be some truth to it simply due to gravity but do they actually creep in all directions? Maybe a little but I doubt it's very much. I was watching a couple of videos where they taped off sections of panels. You could clearly see a line of where that tape line was after a couple of months. It didn't move... And once the dirt sticks, I think it's safe to say that it's not going anywhere. Yeah so true, I completely agree that the better job you do will always give you better results than relying on the creep. I think in this case the application would far outweigh the product.
Thanks! Good review. I have been using fluid film for several years and am happy with it. Using the spray kit I am able to spray above the wheel wells on the inner bed and the front fenders!
@@BustedBeaters Good video, I am about ready to gather my materials, but I still haven't received the answer to this question: What do you do inside of wheel wells where there may be some cracking of the original undercoating. I have been advised not to aggressively pick the areas, but it seems that with any area with a loose coating (just like paint on an interior wall), before you can repaint the wall, you have to remove all of the flaking areas until it becomes sound. So with the wheel well. But in this case, I wonder if the Fluid Film will "creep" under the areas that outline the chipped and exposed clean areas and stop any further action. Finally, the inner side of the fender (the top over the tires where it folds under the exterior to create a 90-degree angle. I have tried to clean this area out and dirt is still coming off. I would think that this area has to be as clean as possible before any product like this is applied. Thanks!
Note on the Surface Shield aerosols, I bought a 6-pack from Amazon in September and applied 2 of them today, neither gave me much trouble even though they seemed to have the same cap everyone complained about. I kept the cans warm (~70F) until just before use and shook them often during the application process, both of which may have helped. When the cans were almost empty they only sprayed well when held upright, but that seems like normal aerosol stuff. Maybe I was just lucky, we'll see what happens if I end up using the other cans.
I got 8 cans to do my tow truck and none of them game me and issue. I made sure they were warm (room temperature) and shook the hell out of them before use. No issues here. Will definitely keep using!
Yeah, I had the same experience. I was able to empty 5 cans to the point there was not a detectable amount in the cans at all. I kept them in the Garage, which was about 50-55 degrees or so.
Great straight forward video. I've been wondering if anyone would just mount their test pieces directly to their cars for a perfect real world test & this is exactly what I wanted to see. After doing some research, both products work the best IMO, I think aside from the price, the only other factor I can see is that FF is more likely to wash off compared to SS when it comes to high pressure water/consistant driving in rain. I heard the reviews about SS cans clogging up as well but I've also seen posts about PB Blaster fixing this issue recently.. I'm going to take my chance with SS cans because I got no spray gun/compressor 😅 My rear rocker panels/pinch welds are done for but I'm going to try and protect what's left rather than just letting everything else rust out.
I've been using fluid film for about 5 years (bought a gallon can and spray it on with an undercoating gun yearly). Working great so far, only rust I've seen is in spots I missed. Looks like surface shield is around $20 more for a gallon can than fluid film.
Wonderful video!!! I was on the fence wanting to try one of the Big 3 (Woolwax, Fluid Film, Surface Shield). I don't live in an area where it's as necessary as up north, but I do have older vehicles and would like to preserve the metal on it. You sold me on Fluid Film, which I was thinking about trying anyway simply because it comes with the graphite premixed giving it a very nice black finish on the underneath of the vehicle! Thanks for making this!
Thanks! Appreciate it! I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. I think FF is a good balance of price and performance. I also like having the option of being able to remove it if needed. You'll be happy with Fluid Film for sure!
I spray bulk Fluid film underneath and also use the aerosol cans to squirt on components if I have anything apart, the aerosol tins always work and never clog which for me is a big plus point.
I live in Michigan and I bought a Gen 1 Raptor 4 years ago, the first winter it had in Michigan didn’t have fluid film applied but it’s been applied thereafter and no rust.
My 2017 ford super duty parked outside in Illinois winters with plenty of salt. Zero rust. Before this aluminum truck i had a steel body raptor i used fluid film on the frame and krown rust proofing in doors cab corners rockers etc never have an issue with rust.
Do you guys wash out the inside of pick truck box wheel wells every year or just spray more FF or SS in there on a yearly basis ? I do wash certain areas of the truck and reapply the protectant yearly . Other areas I just reapply without washing .
from my experience.. you have to shake the can for surface shield very well for it to not clog up. I usually shake it for a good minute or more before spraying.
I bought a 6pack of surface shield in cans and only used 2 so far and didn't have any problem with clogging. the first can was not used all at once either and worked just fine.
I liked that the Surface Shield was not easy to remove! BIG question I have is how was the vehicle cared for in the Winter. Did it get washed in an automatic car wash? How often? Was there an undercarriage wash included with the car wash? It'd be nice if you could answer these questions for all of us to see. Thank you.
The Jeep did not see any car washes over the winter. I washed the body a couple of times but never sprayed the undercarriage. Once the Fluid Film is applied, I don't touch the bottom of the Jeep until spring.
In Louisiana we don’t get the snow an the salt that goes with it from the roads. But I deal with repairs with a lot of salt systems. And use it on my hand tools otherwise they go to shit fairly quick. Works pretty decent for that. Granted they get some of a wipe off vs like the under of a vehicle. Just so my bag and everything around it don’t get to be a mess. But still leave a decent film coat on it
yup, i have bought 3 cans of blaster, and all three cans were defective. the product shot out of the bottom of the push cap, and went everywhere but where i was aiming. fluid film on the other hand, ive used at least ten cans, and never had an issue!
Great video! Got a gal. of SS to spray under my '92 jeep YJ, I plan to also apply it inside the frame... Will see how it works. Hopefully the wet cover will still let me see any oil leaks in the event they may appear...:) Thanks for posting!
Oil leaks will be harder to spot but, you'll notice any sort of oil on the ground. Those frames are known for rusting. You'll be happy to have it coated!
@@BustedBeaters Indeed. The frame on my YJ surprisingly is in excellent shape for its age and the reason I want to coat it . I can add some UV die in the engine oil and use a black light to check for leaks periodically though so oil leaks would not be big issue. Where can I find the hose adapters to spray inside the frame? Thanks again!
I have surface shield but will buy FF next time if it’s cheaper as I can’t see a difference between the 2. Plus I like the fact you can remove FF easier if needed. I like to power wash off the old before putting a new coat on. Surface shield is harder to remove once hardened.
Yeah. That's the biggest thing keeping me feom switching to SS. I really like the fact that I can remove the product if I have to do any major repairs or take the car to a shop.
You don’t need to power wash off the previous years coating . A light hose off with water and apply new product right on the thoroughly dried surfaces.
how about another test but using your regular household products like vegetable oil, mineral oil, PAM? And possibly another test using PB Blaster, WD40, Motor oil? Good video!
I sprayed fluid film black on my 2012 silverado last year before fall. And here in northern michigan winter the back half of my frome had all washed off not even half way into snow season. Very disappointed. Think next I will try woolwax.
Yeah I imagine in Michigan you're dealing with pretty rough conditions all the time. Woolwax, Surface Shield or even one of the more wax based products may work out better for you.
The problem with Cosmoline is it doesn’t flow too well and when it dries it can leave voids with moisture, or where moisture can migrate to and stay there . I would never use it .
@@JustinBlackfaceTrudeau Depends how it's formulated, the spray can stuff I have flows like cooking oil before it sets up. Lots of solvent in it that evaporates off. What I use is the name brand Cosmoline RP-342 spray can.
awesome i bought a can for my classic car but didnt get to use it before the rainy season started here, i probably should have but its better a season late than never! Im really happy it lasted two years, another video said they applied it once a year and even that was way better than i expected, i thought this would require monthly reapplications Im gonna reccomend fluid film cans to anyone interested in undercoatings, since the cans make application easy and they come with extended fam nozzles to get inside frame rails. I never thought paint, bedliner, or undercoats made any sense since there'd still be spots underneath for air and water to hide and itll eventually chip, but since these stay oily that cant happen.
Bought Surface Shield yesterday and only managed to get 1/4 of the material out of the can due to the nozzle clogging. What did come out seems to be high quality.
Yes. I debated throwing a control plate in. I was concerned that the control would take away from the comparison. Looking back, it would have been nice to have.
Thank you so much for doing this! I've been convinced that Surface Shield was the superior product, but was discouraged by those aerosol reviews. I don't have access to an air compressor, so aerosol is the only way I could do it. I'll be picking up some Fluid Film!
PB fixed the can problem but still better using good woolwax gun and gallons of either...shield sprayed better at around 50 psi..needed about 70 for fluid film....cant go wrong with either.
It looks like FF may creep a little more. At 40% of the cost, I'm staying with Fluid film. Also the Fluid Film cans work. Also I would rather work with a lanolin based product rather than petroleum. Both are good products.
don't think there isn't petroleum as well in both of these. read the Safety Data Sheet, you won't even see lanolin listed on the ingredients. also this from FF "FLUID FILM® is formulated from specially processed wool-wax, highly refined petroleum oils and selected agents to provide corrosion control, penetration, metal wetting and water displacement."
Don't care what people "say" online, I apply it myself in my shop, I do everything at cost so I'm sticking to what has been proven and cheap, fluid film all the way!
Great video. Thank you. The fluid film is substantially cheaper than Blaster, and more widely sold. Very much appreciate the info. Would be nice if Blaster spent less on "influencer" marketing and just lowered their prices to be competitive, but oh well.
Thanks! Yeah, i have also noticed the massive influencer marketing and it has definitely put a bad taste in my mouth. I've been using FF and have been happy with it!
Great video! Does anyone know if SS has fixed their spray can problems yet? This video is the first I've seen that mention an issue? and I've watched many.
I just ordered 6 cans through Amazon about a month ago and they worked fine for me. I had them set up about 15 feet in front of my space heater before use to warm them up though. I seen some people saying they set the cans in hot water before getting ready to use also.
I haven't tried fluid foam, but surface shield worked great in the winter, but the first hot/sunny day in southern Utah it just basically melted right off truck onto driveway. Oh well, I guess it is for winter and cooler areas only.
Yeah it's mostly used in the winter. Weirs that it just melted right off the truck though. I have had a couple people say the same thing happen to them when using Fluid Film
I go through car wash with underbody spray every week until they stop salting the roads. Costs me like 11 bucks each time, $44/mo, usually 2-3 months of winter but only 1-3 months of snow, so $132 per year at the most from car washes throughout winter and my frame is still metal solid
Yeah, I haven't had much luck with this. I know someone that did this exact same thing and their truck is shot. The car washes around here recycle the water they use so you would essentially be pressure washing salt water into your undercarriage. But hey, if you have a good car wash and it's working for you, I wouldn't change a thing!
Surface shield will handle the pressure washer better. There's pros and cons to this for sure. Although it will be much harder to remove with the pressure washer, it will be equally as hard to remove if you have any repairs that are needed.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been fluid filming my truck for 8 years here in MI. So far no rust. It really works.
Good to know, thanks for chiming in.
I'm also in Michigan and am looking to rust-proof my 1986 CUCV.
Same here, in Michigan...my truck looks great. I also never wash it all winter. Car washes around here just rinse your car with recycled salt water.
I wash it at home in the spring, and wax it in the fall.
@@michiganman845Yes, also do not take it to car wash as the pressure wash will take off the coating. -A fellow Michigander who fluidfilms and does not wash all winter
@@michiganman845 Yeah, the recycled salt water is the worst thing for your vehicle.
I've wanted to drive my 1986 CUCV the last couple Winters but have not (since its never been undercoated). My plan is to use this undercoating process this coming Spring so I can drive my Blazer through the Winter.
Can u apply it in cold weather?
Good video--would have been nice to see a control as well. A third, untreated metal plate, just to see how badly it would rust under the same conditions/time without any product on it at all.
pretty safe to say a raw, untreated plate would be covered in rust. i don't think anyone would be blown away by this result.
Yeah I should have thrown one under there just to see. I originally thought that it would take away form the comparison so I didn't make the 3rd plate.
@@adamcoe No one wants to get blown away. The third plate would be a nice visual and a good motivator.
@adamcoe I know it sounds like water wet on the surface but it's worth seeing if the conditions for trust where met.
man, that control plate would've turned to dust...there's no point in doing that at all
I had my 2022 Cadillac coated with fluid film black for underneath and clear for under the hood and all doors. I went back to the installer 1 year later to do a recoat if needed and I was shocked on how well the fluid film was still applied AND there is absolutely no rust anywhere! So glad we went with this product for I see it protecting my car for years to come.
That because you live in Arizona 😂. Trust the experts Surface shield is much better!!
Yes but if you're driving through brake cleaner puddles, then surface Shield will protect better. 😅. Jokes aside I agree with you 100%.
I waited ... and couldn't wait for this!!!! I was so excited you released it. Saw the original video by you and was impressed... even more impressed you took the time to do a long term test AND FOLLOWED THROUGH!!! Thanks...
I appreciate that! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Here in upstate NY I find that Fluid Film washes off the underside of the body and all of the suspension parts in a few months of winter driving. FF is fantastic on interior panels like doors and fenders above the wheel well liners. It also is great on box sections in the chassis. Surface Shield really holds up on the under body. The combination of the two work great together.
ive seen ppl recommend waxoyl for places that will get road spray, it's apparently harder to wash off.
Amazing results. Anyone who lives in the rust belt needs to see this.
All these lanolin products are the best antirust solution out there. I have used fluid film for over 15 years now and zero rust in PA.
It’s good stuff but man the lanolin smell is something you gotta get used too.
Hahaha I've learned to like the smell. Took a few years to get to that point though lol
@@BustedBeaters how long does the smell last? And will critters be attracted to it?
@@matsudakodo for me it was about 2 months of smell. Stinks like wet dog lol
This is what I was wondering. FF is 100% lanolin, whereas Surface Shield is "Lanolin based". Meaning there's other stuff in there. I don't want to have have to wonder if it may damage rubber, so it's FF for me as always.
I personally went with Surface Shield because I pressure wash the undercarriage. FF washes off easier. Can't go wrong with either one though
Excellent comparison! The nice thing about both products not being petroleum based is that they will not degrade rubber or plastic. Thanks for the vid! -Glen
You'd think that. As a Fluid Filmer I can 100% say overtime (3 to 5 years) it softens rubber, softens plastic and will make your door seals sag. All of those are better than rust imo
This has been my experience. All the rubber under the Jeep looks like the day I bought it!
I dare you to look at the SDS for Fluidfilm 😂 main ingredient is "Refined petroleum oil, hydrotreated heavy paraffinic"
@@SouthMainAuto door seals Sag costs Over 500$ to repair on Yota Tacoma!? Eric O from SMA how you doing!?
Thank you for taking the time to test these. Very helpful.
Id love to see a test with panels that are rusted and seeing if either is better at slowing the corrosion process
same here!
Fluid film will stop rust so long as you can seal all avenues of oxygen.
I would also be very interested in this. I don't think it will stop the rust but I imagine it will slow it down some.
@@BustedBeaters It appeared to fully stop the rust when I sprayed a rusted section on my Accord some years ago. As I continued to check it the corrosion never got worse.
plenty on youtube testing these products
I always rely on fluid film. Way to cheap and easy to use not to. I use maybe 3-4 aerosol cans a year, 30 bucks, and an hour of my time. Coats everything under the Tacoma and it hasn’t rusted, and what little rust was there when I bought the truck hasn’t spread or gotten worse. Definitely works. I love the fact that every year when I get under to spray everything still has that waxy feel and it’s still on there.
Damn we get ripped off in canada. $20 a can here, gallon $115
In Norway. 140 kr per spray can. ( 10, 40 $ )
Do you wash the old stuff off or just apply another coat ontop
@@jasonsmith4243 I usually run it through a car wash with underspray or pressure wash underneath. Let it dry a day then coat it.
Where abouts do you live?
Great update. I used Fluid Film on my JK last year, and I’m doing my new to me truck with Surface Shield this year. Only reason for the switch is that the Surface Shield was on sale and $30 cheaper for 6 cans than the Fluid Film.
I don't think you'll be disappointed! I was pretty impressed with both of these products
Wow! I never saw SS for less than 150% the price of FF. You got an AMAZING deal!
Good comparison, can't go wrong with either. Been using FF for about 15 years. Zero complaints.
it FF Does Not readily wash off on you in the high-wash wheelhouse areas ?? How?
I think a product that picks up less dirt is a big plus. I have been doing undercoating for years and a problem I see is with cars that drive on dirt and gravel roads end up building up a lot of sand around the wheelwell areas. Most people do not bother to do any pressure washing and leads to a thick build up that holds moisture.
Yeah, I agree with this. I've seen several cars from Florida that have never been in snow a day in their lives. They rust out where the sand collects in the wheel wells like you said. The sand just holds that moisture against the metal.
@@BustedBeaters sand does not hold water.
@@BustedBeaters what is the best tool to clean out the wheel wells? I also had sand and dirt to collect behind one of the bodyside moulding strips because aftermarket fender trim was jammed into the front part of the moulding, which created a gap large enough for crud to build up. Now I have two rust holes to repair.
great job. would have been interesting to have a control sample, a 3rd piece with nothing on it.
Next time!
Fluid film doesn’t dry and that’s what I like, because it will “heal” any place it gets rubbed off because it spreads the longer it sits…I also watched a video where a guy tested every oil out there on a plate and left the plate outside for 6 months, pretty much all the competition disappeared except fluid film, which spread and grew 3x the size, and (what sold me) was on the backside of the steel the fluid film was coming through…THAT is the game changer!
what about lithium grease? i guess that would work also if you don't mind the dirt sticking up
😂You are right about that. It is extremely sutiable for cold climate because it will solitified when cold. I recall I travel to Montanna in summer and the fuild film I applied the previous fall start to melt. That is the moment I becomes a fuild film fanboy.
I apply fluid film in the spring and late fall just before winter after enough time goes by I think it actually penetrates into the steel. My mechanics love working on my rust free vehicles and the bolts come right off without a fight
If it was going through the metal how do they keep it in the can's wouldn't you be getting empty & or half full cans I mean if it goes through metal?! 🤔 Just a question
@@davehubler2595 rusty metal with no paint or coating
This is consistent with my results with fluid film. I'm going into my third winter on the original treatment, and there's still a nice film on the frame and it still looks good. I've done spot touch ups to the front of the frame a couple times since then, since that takes the brunt of wear, but I have to imagine that inside the frame still has a nice coating considering the outside of the frame still looks so good.
😂I used to fluid film. And I get the shop to apply it every year just for the heck of it. And it just keep building up over years. By the time I need to pull my transmission. The coat on the chassis is thick enough to become a layer of its own. Too bad, the shop I went to stop doing coating 3 years ago.
I think the spraying issue with Surface shield is due to how thick the product is. If the can gets too cold by just sitting in the garage it doesn't spray well or at all. Due to the aerosole not being able to carry something so thick, but if you warm up the can it returns to spraying as normal. (I left mine in front of a mini Space heater while i was working on my car) once the internal contents were warmed up the can returned to spraying as normal with zero issues. Hope this helps someone.
That's good to know. I haven't had a problem with any of the cans but I imagine that warming them up would help a ton.
spot on it is the temperature
Great point. Just don't go crazy with the heat of course! I did mine in the fall when it was probably about 60-70F and had no issues.
Yep, been using surface shield since it came out, first year with cans and ever since that with the undercoating gun and getting it in a gallon pail. Always keep the bottles of it warm, and using the spray gun means you don’t have to apply it as thick.
This is the kind of testing we need thank you!
Good video.
I have 5 work trucks, 2 trailers and a skid steer in NH and MA all sprayed with chainsaw oil (from a fluid film gun). Ages 1995, 1997, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015.
Sprayed every year or every other year.
No rust on anything bought new, VERY LITTLE rust on anything bought used.
I use the fluid film and surface shield rattle cans for touch up and for skid steer implements.
Very pleased with products.
But unfortunately i have run into the spray problem with surface shield recently- probably 8-10 full cans that dont work.
Good video, thanks again!!!
Ppreciate it!There's been a lot of people who have mentioned chain saw oil. It's pretty thick stuff so I imagine it does work well. The SS cans seem to be hit and miss for a lot of people
Wow, you’re patient😊 And that’s good for us. Thanks for this test. I’ll keep on using my Fluid Film👍👍
Great video btw! Commented 3 weeks ago. Came back for an update. Surface shield sucks in the cans. I had 6+ cans of it and not one of them would spray more than 5 seconds. I threw them all away. Trash. The fluid film cans spray perfectly. Amazon sells 5 gallon buckets of both and the Fluid Film is under $200 and Surface Shield is $275.
This is about the same experience I've had. Except for the SS cans clogging. I have nit had any clog but I haven't really used that many either! Thanks for stopping back in for the update!
I started using Fluid Film when they sent me a free can to test on my race jet ski. That was probably 10 years ago. If it can work on a saltwater jet ski, it can work anywhere.
Are you talking about inside the engine compartment? Im here trying to find a product for that, thanks!
@@JordanYeck-x5g Yep. on the engine and all metal inside.
Thanks for the in-depth video. I'm looking at getting a new Chevy Express van and this is definitely something I'm going to be spraying all over the underneath. Along with inside the door panels. Also removing any tape that actually traps the water inside the door panels as well.
No problem! You'll be glad you put in the work now a few years from now!
I'm not paying 2 1/2 times the price for something that needs redone every two years. Fluid film will only require annual touch-up and costs around $45 a gallon. The critical inner surfaces will not erode. Surface shield is only a small percentage lanolin so lanolin-based is misleading at best. It is petroleum based with enough lanolin to impart a slight odor. Great video.
Appreciate that! Yeah, I didn't see a big enough difference to justify the cost. Fluid Film has been doing excellent on my jeep up to this point
Used Hydraulic and transmission fluid the best by far lol
@@mikethorntonr1is this a 50/50 mix?
I liked using wool wax this year, but next time I need to apply it when it's warmer out. Thick stuff
Looked up the SDS for Woolwax composition & ingredient information Lanolin 60-100%
I sprayed 2 vehicles this year in 50 degree weather next time I'll do it on a 80+ degree day
Doesn't drip off curious how well it'll do this winter, we have plenty of salt & sand here paid $70 per gallon little more expensive than Fluid film but people say woolwax smells better
Great test BTW!
In regards to Surface Sheild cans , yes they plug up. You will have to remove the tip and blow it out with compressed air to get use of the full can. I just removed the 3 tips and rotated them until they all plugged up they blew them all out and continued.
Ahh this is a good tip! I'm glad there is a work around. I would be pretty upset if I wasn't able to use the full can.
My oil leak from the power steering pump and rear main seal keeps the bottom coated good till the next century. Great video and information for the next owners grandkids.
Hahaha my truck is the same way. Only place where it hasn't rusted out is the spots where it's leaking
This is how tests should be done. Wonderful and informative video. Thank you!
I bought a 1989 pickup truck with a lot of rust, but not too many perforated parts and a solid frame. One of the first things I did was to buy a gallon can of Fluid Film. It's not easy to get it everywhere, that's why I got a couple of aerosol cans too. It seems to be creeping right through the rust, which is exactly what I was hoping. The stuff isn't cheap, but loosing a truck to rust is worse. Years ago we were using petroleum products, which helped a lot, but also hardened the insulation of electrical wiring, which becomes a huge problem over time. I'm happy with Fluid Film.
3 years into surface shield. I sprayed year 1 and 2 haven't for a whole year. Going to see how things are holding up. I used 8 cans to do my truck had no clog issues. I did change the tips and used adapters for a hose to spray inside frame.
what kind of adapters did you use ? do you have link Thanks
I love videos like this. This is the kind of dedication for information that makes RUclips awesome. I wish I could have coated my car the day I got it.
I felt the same way with all my cars!
I’m preparing to use fluid film for the first time and I’m really glad that you’ve documented your experience with it! I’m also glad that you have tried the blaster version. I went with fluid film for its long track record but it seems like either would work well. Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience!
Good video man. My only wish was you pressure washed the "hardened" SS instead of using brake cleaner. Unless you have a steam cleaner, a pressure washer will struggle to remove the exposed surface shield. FF blows off instantly. Sponsored content or not turns out I wasn't lying 😁
Overall, excellent commitment, great testing, and awesome video. 10/10.
Hey! Thanks! I appreciate that! I didn't even think to pressure wash the plates. That would have been pretty interesting to see. The Surface Sheld turned more into a wax so I can pretty much guarantee I'd have to get pretty close with the pressure washer to get it to come off. I can confirm that Fluid Film can be removed with a pressure washer. A lot of comments I receive make it sound like FF is just going to instantly fall off a car driving through a puddle lol. Both SS and FF held up extremely well under normal driving conditions. At least in my experience.
I wish I had a second set of plates to scratch the surface with and throw them back under the Jeep. I highly doubt either of them would creep after the two years but, I would be more likely to think that FF would offer more protection after being scratched. I have no evidence of this though. Either way I dont think either of these are intended to be a one and done kind of undercoating. Awww well, may have to make that video in another 2 years 😂.
Anywho, love your videos! I've watched a ton of them! Keep them coming!
The creeping thing is very hard to quantify for testing. Ive looked into it. I pressed NHOU a little bit a few years ago about their creeping claims.
If you look at their claims they always point out how far the residue crept. Like if you sprayed the bottom of a door, how far that residue creeps up the outside of the door... They never claim that the product residue that has crept offers any protection. How come they haven't shown corrosion resistance of "crept" product? They didn't have an answer, it's just a visual marketing thing in my opinion without any data to back it up.
If you take those panels you used here and only spray the bottom half, the top is going to rust no matter the product.
Doing a good job with the application is going to be a far greater factor in the success of the coating vs doing a crap job and expecting creeping action to take care of the parts you missed.
Hope all that makes sense.
Yeah I'm with you. I was always wondering how much they actually crept. There has to be some truth to it simply due to gravity but do they actually creep in all directions? Maybe a little but I doubt it's very much. I was watching a couple of videos where they taped off sections of panels. You could clearly see a line of where that tape line was after a couple of months. It didn't move... And once the dirt sticks, I think it's safe to say that it's not going anywhere.
Yeah so true, I completely agree that the better job you do will always give you better results than relying on the creep. I think in this case the application would far outweigh the product.
@@BustedBeatersfor what it's worth FF when sprayed under the bed of my truck creeped into the actual bed through the seams and bolt holes.
"RepairGreek" WORKS FOR SURFACE SHIELD.
Thanks! Good review. I have been using fluid film for several years and am happy with it. Using the spray kit I am able to spray above the wheel wells on the inner bed and the front fenders!
Yeah the wands are so nice to have. Let's you get it into so many tight areas!
@@BustedBeaters Good video, I am about ready to gather my materials, but I still haven't received the answer to this question: What do you do inside of wheel wells where there may be some cracking of the original undercoating. I have been advised not to aggressively pick the areas, but it seems that with any area with a loose coating (just like paint on an interior wall), before you can repaint the wall, you have to remove all of the flaking areas until it becomes sound.
So with the wheel well. But in this case, I wonder if the Fluid Film will "creep" under the areas that outline the chipped and exposed clean areas and stop any further action.
Finally, the inner side of the fender (the top over the tires where it folds under the exterior to create a 90-degree angle. I have tried to clean this area out and dirt is still coming off. I would think that this area has to be as clean as possible before any product like this is applied. Thanks!
Excellent video just did both my truck using the blaster surface shield in the gallon containers.
Good video. Would of liked to see a third plate no protection
Yeah I agree! I really should have added a control plate!
Everyone knows it would be rusted to hell. No surprises.
This is excellent man! Thanks from Germany!!! I am searching for something like this for my old GDR motors and my cars.
Note on the Surface Shield aerosols, I bought a 6-pack from Amazon in September and applied 2 of them today, neither gave me much trouble even though they seemed to have the same cap everyone complained about. I kept the cans warm (~70F) until just before use and shook them often during the application process, both of which may have helped.
When the cans were almost empty they only sprayed well when held upright, but that seems like normal aerosol stuff. Maybe I was just lucky, we'll see what happens if I end up using the other cans.
I got 8 cans to do my tow truck and none of them game me and issue. I made sure they were warm (room temperature) and shook the hell out of them before use. No issues here. Will definitely keep using!
Yeah, I had the same experience. I was able to empty 5 cans to the point there was not a detectable amount in the cans at all. I kept them in the Garage, which was about 50-55 degrees or so.
Have you tried OSFO to convert ferric oxide to ferric phosphate BEFORE applying these products? I'll bet that would work very well on existing rust.
I have not. I don't see how this would hurt anything so it's worth giving a try!
Great straight forward video. I've been wondering if anyone would just mount their test pieces directly to their cars for a perfect real world test & this is exactly what I wanted to see. After doing some research, both products work the best IMO, I think aside from the price, the only other factor I can see is that FF is more likely to wash off compared to SS when it comes to high pressure water/consistant driving in rain.
I heard the reviews about SS cans clogging up as well but I've also seen posts about PB Blaster fixing this issue recently.. I'm going to take my chance with SS cans because I got no spray gun/compressor 😅 My rear rocker panels/pinch welds are done for but I'm going to try and protect what's left rather than just letting everything else rust out.
I've been using fluid film for about 5 years (bought a gallon can and spray it on with an undercoating gun yearly). Working great so far, only rust I've seen is in spots I missed. Looks like surface shield is around $20 more for a gallon can than fluid film.
Both are great products and each can have an advantage depending on application.
I treated the underside of my teardrop trailer and so far, it's working perfectly.
Wonderful video!!! I was on the fence wanting to try one of the Big 3 (Woolwax, Fluid Film, Surface Shield). I don't live in an area where it's as necessary as up north, but I do have older vehicles and would like to preserve the metal on it. You sold me on Fluid Film, which I was thinking about trying anyway simply because it comes with the graphite premixed giving it a very nice black finish on the underneath of the vehicle! Thanks for making this!
Thanks! Appreciate it! I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. I think FF is a good balance of price and performance. I also like having the option of being able to remove it if needed. You'll be happy with Fluid Film for sure!
Great video and test
I spray bulk Fluid film underneath and also use the aerosol cans to squirt on components if I have anything apart, the aerosol tins always work and never clog which for me is a big plus point.
I live in Michigan and I bought a Gen 1 Raptor 4 years ago, the first winter it had in Michigan didn’t have fluid film applied but it’s been applied thereafter and no rust.
My 2017 ford super duty parked outside in Illinois winters with plenty of salt. Zero rust. Before this aluminum truck i had a steel body raptor i used fluid film on the frame and krown rust proofing in doors cab corners rockers etc never have an issue with rust.
Do you guys wash out the inside of pick truck box wheel wells every year or just spray more FF or SS in there on a yearly basis ? I do wash certain areas of the truck and reapply the protectant yearly . Other areas I just reapply without washing .
from my experience.. you have to shake the can for surface shield very well for it to not clog up. I usually shake it for a good minute or more before spraying.
Good to know! I didn't have any cans clog me. I must have shook them pretty good lol
Great job with the video.
Thank you!
Good video, would have been great to have a 3rd piece ie the control with nothing on it for comparison
Looking back, I do wish I created a control piece. I was afraid it would take away from the comparison, but I think it would have added to the video.
I bought a 6pack of surface shield in cans and only used 2 so far and didn't have any problem with clogging. the first can was not used all at once either and worked just fine.
I hope the rest of your cans behave the same way!
All videos should be like this! Real world testing and right to the point!
This is a great comparison test video. My only suggestion is that it would have been nice to see a 3rd control piece with nothing treating it.
Insanely good video. Thanks for making it.
I liked that the Surface Shield was not easy to remove! BIG question I have is how was the vehicle cared for in the Winter. Did it get washed in an automatic car wash? How often? Was there an undercarriage wash included with the car wash? It'd be nice if you could answer these questions for all of us to see. Thank you.
The Jeep did not see any car washes over the winter. I washed the body a couple of times but never sprayed the undercarriage. Once the Fluid Film is applied, I don't touch the bottom of the Jeep until spring.
In Louisiana we don’t get the snow an the salt that goes with it from the roads. But I deal with repairs with a lot of salt systems. And use it on my hand tools otherwise they go to shit fairly quick.
Works pretty decent for that. Granted they get some of a wipe off vs like the under of a vehicle. Just so my bag and everything around it don’t get to be a mess. But still leave a decent film coat on it
Now thats dedication! Great video
Thanks!
yup, i have bought 3 cans of blaster, and all three cans were defective. the product shot out of the bottom of the push cap, and went everywhere but where i was aiming. fluid film on the other hand, ive used at least ten cans, and never had an issue!
Great video! Got a gal. of SS to spray under my '92 jeep YJ, I plan to also apply it inside the frame... Will see how it works. Hopefully the wet cover will still let me see any oil leaks in the event they may appear...:) Thanks for posting!
Oil leaks will be harder to spot but, you'll notice any sort of oil on the ground. Those frames are known for rusting. You'll be happy to have it coated!
@@BustedBeaters Indeed. The frame on my YJ surprisingly is in excellent shape for its age and the reason I want to coat it . I can add some UV die in the engine oil and use a black light to check for leaks periodically though so oil leaks would not be big issue. Where can I find the hose adapters to spray inside the frame? Thanks again!
I have surface shield but will buy FF next time if it’s cheaper as I can’t see a difference between the 2. Plus I like the fact you can remove FF easier if needed. I like to power wash off the old before putting a new coat on. Surface shield is harder to remove once hardened.
Yeah. That's the biggest thing keeping me feom switching to SS. I really like the fact that I can remove the product if I have to do any major repairs or take the car to a shop.
You don’t need to power wash off the previous years coating . A light hose off with water and apply new product right on the thoroughly dried surfaces.
I’ve used FF for years but am going to switch to SS because it’s harder to remove .
Well done mate, thanks for doing this
Next time use plastic cable ties to affix the plates. You can induce galvanic corrosion with a dissimilar metal such as those magnets.
For sure! I was expecting more corrosion around the magnets due to this but really didn't see it.
Great job on the experiment. Thank you!
I would have added a control plate that had no treatment at all but this was a great experiment. Thanks
Yeah I should have added one! Next time!
The experiment was good BUT, you should have used a third plate for control, one without any protection
Theories and opinions are fun to discuss, but data and science is how we make important economic decisions.
Another outstanding episode.
how about another test but using your regular household products like vegetable oil, mineral oil, PAM? And possibly another test using PB Blaster, WD40, Motor oil? Good video!
This is very timely thanks. Can you get Fluid Film inside the panels or is it limited to visible panels only? Like inside doors, trunks, hoods etc
I sprayed fluid film black on my 2012 silverado last year before fall. And here in northern michigan winter the back half of my frome had all washed off not even half way into snow season. Very disappointed. Think next I will try woolwax.
Yeah I imagine in Michigan you're dealing with pretty rough conditions all the time. Woolwax, Surface Shield or even one of the more wax based products may work out better for you.
Great video. Good dedication
Add Cosmoline to the next long term testing please.
Yeah I kind of invested in CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor and I know this is a different animal entirely.
The problem with Cosmoline is it doesn’t flow too well and when it dries it can leave voids with moisture, or where moisture can migrate to and stay there . I would never use it .
@@JustinBlackfaceTrudeau Depends how it's formulated, the spray can stuff I have flows like cooking oil before it sets up. Lots of solvent in it that evaporates off. What I use is the name brand Cosmoline RP-342 spray can.
@@JustinBlackfaceTrudeau🤣🤣🤣I love your name BTW! Worst PM ever, most corrupt most racist most evil most tyrannical.
awesome i bought a can for my classic car but didnt get to use it before the rainy season started here, i probably should have but its better a season late than never! Im really happy it lasted two years, another video said they applied it once a year and even that was way better than i expected, i thought this would require monthly reapplications
Im gonna reccomend fluid film cans to anyone interested in undercoatings, since the cans make application easy and they come with extended fam nozzles to get inside frame rails. I never thought paint, bedliner, or undercoats made any sense since there'd still be spots underneath for air and water to hide and itll eventually chip, but since these stay oily that cant happen.
Better late then never for sure! I've never been a fan of the traditional undercoating either. Seem to cause more damage than good
Bought Surface Shield yesterday and only managed to get 1/4 of the material out of the can due to the nozzle clogging. What did come out seems to be high quality.
Did you shake the can? I see a Few people saying this but am curious if that isn't enough
Great video. I know it's too late but it would have been interesting to have seen a control.
Yes. I debated throwing a control plate in. I was concerned that the control would take away from the comparison. Looking back, it would have been nice to have.
the surface shield cans must of been updated. I got mine months ago and had no issues.
Thank you so much for doing this! I've been convinced that Surface Shield was the superior product, but was discouraged by those aerosol reviews. I don't have access to an air compressor, so aerosol is the only way I could do it. I'll be picking up some Fluid Film!
They're both pretty amazing products! You'll be happy with Fluid Film!
Excellent, excellent review !!!!!
Thank you !
PB fixed the can problem but still better using good woolwax gun and gallons of either...shield sprayed better at around 50 psi..needed about 70 for fluid film....cant go wrong with either.
does it stay wet? and will mechanics work on parts that are still wet?
Very cool test. Thanks for doing it.
It looks like FF may creep a little more. At 40% of the cost, I'm staying with Fluid film. Also the Fluid Film cans work. Also I would rather work with a lanolin based product rather than petroleum. Both are good products.
I've had a good experience with FF but I don't think you'll go wrong with either.
don't think there isn't petroleum as well in both of these. read the Safety Data Sheet, you won't even see lanolin listed on the ingredients. also this from FF "FLUID FILM® is formulated from specially processed wool-wax, highly refined petroleum oils and selected agents to provide corrosion control, penetration, metal wetting and water displacement."
Lol. They both are petroleum based
just used 2.5 cans of surface shield , cans worked perfect . Hopefully the product will work as good
Don't care what people "say" online, I apply it myself in my shop, I do everything at cost so I'm sticking to what has been proven and cheap, fluid film all the way!
Wow. Thank you for your video!
Fluid film works for sure, but may have to try surface shield for that more durable protection
Great video. Thank you. The fluid film is substantially cheaper than Blaster, and more widely sold. Very much appreciate the info. Would be nice if Blaster spent less on "influencer" marketing and just lowered their prices to be competitive, but oh well.
Thanks! Yeah, i have also noticed the massive influencer marketing and it has definitely put a bad taste in my mouth. I've been using FF and have been happy with it!
Good to know! Thanks! ! ! 👍👍
Great video! Does anyone know if SS has fixed their spray can problems yet? This video is the first I've seen that mention an issue? and I've watched many.
I just ordered 6 cans through Amazon about a month ago and they worked fine for me. I had them set up about 15 feet in front of my space heater before use to warm them up though. I seen some people saying they set the cans in hot water before getting ready to use also.
Thank you for this review!
I bought 6 cans of the surface shield before I knew about clogging issues. Anyone have any tips to make them useful??
I have heard of people warming them up slightly and spraying them upside-down to clear the clog. Hopefully you can get them working again
I haven't tried fluid foam, but surface shield worked great in the winter, but the first hot/sunny day in southern Utah it just basically melted right off truck onto driveway. Oh well, I guess it is for winter and cooler areas only.
Yeah it's mostly used in the winter. Weirs that it just melted right off the truck though. I have had a couple people say the same thing happen to them when using Fluid Film
Would you be willing to try this test with pre existing surface rust on the metal?
I go through car wash with underbody spray every week until they stop salting the roads. Costs me like 11 bucks each time, $44/mo, usually 2-3 months of winter but only 1-3 months of snow, so $132 per year at the most from car washes throughout winter and my frame is still metal solid
Yeah, I haven't had much luck with this. I know someone that did this exact same thing and their truck is shot. The car washes around here recycle the water they use so you would essentially be pressure washing salt water into your undercarriage. But hey, if you have a good car wash and it's working for you, I wouldn't change a thing!
If you spray with FF or SS you don’t need to spend any money on underside washes.
On my second year of fluid film runnin from Maine to Mass coasts, salt everywhere. Still looks great.
in Australia everyone argues about whats better out of Inox mx3 and Inox Mx4, would be great to see a comparison like this for that
Two more undercoating products I've heard of. I had no idea there were so many of them out there!
Which one resists the pressure washer better? I’ve been using Fluid Film but I’ve noticed it does come off in the car wash
Surface shield will handle the pressure washer better. There's pros and cons to this for sure. Although it will be much harder to remove with the pressure washer, it will be equally as hard to remove if you have any repairs that are needed.
would have been interesting to have a control w/o any protection applied.
Yeah I agree! I really should have added a control plate!
@@BustedBeaters Year 3 review, we expect to see it in there! Just etch in the date you slapped it on there lol