I try to speak really clear and slow in the video however that does not seem to be to effective so I will write it out here as slow as I can type so you can follow along: A: This was not a DIY at home job after the truck was already rusted. This truck was sprayed by Ziebart here in NY the day it was purchased NEW before the customer took delivery of the vehicle. I have the receipts to prove it. B: Every year after the original date of purchase it was taking in to Ziebart to have the coating "reapplied" per their recommendation to "keep the warranty." C: This shit will destroy your car no matter how much "surface prep" you do. I have been working in the salt belt as a mechanic for over 25 years. This stuff that Ziebart sprays on is complete shit and will 100% destroy your vehicle at an accelerated rate. D: Use Fluid Film, Krown, NOHC, surface shield or some other for of "oil undercoating" if you live in the rust belt and want your car to last more than 11 years E: You have a nice day 👍🏼
We have an old 98 freightliner FL70 with an 8.3 Cummins that leaks oil bad. No rust on the frame at all it undercoats itself while driving down the road. Only rust from the salt is on the side mounted fuel tanks under the doors and the top part of the steel deck.
The bigger reason that GM and Chrysler have major corrosion issues is due to reduced costs in metal plating processes at the factory. Nothing is cadmium played anymore and hex chrome has been eliminated on anything 2010 and newer due to environmental and cost. Same problem in the aerospace industry. New Cessna 172’s have major corrosion issues in the tail section after just a few years. Yet a chromated tail section from a 1955 Cessna 172 still looks brand new today. Build it cheap....build it fast....sell it at a high price....shorter service life. My 2007 Lexus chassis (all hex chrome and cad plated parts) has minimal rust and I live in the Midwest where we have nuclear road salt. This year I will give fluid film a try.
I have a car the had Ziebart applied to the underside in 1979, it it mint under there! If you scratch it back the paint is as good as new. The engine bay is perfect, no welding. The only rust I have is the areas not covered in ziebart.
@@ollie2244 I'm sure it works very well in Arizona 🙄 Ziebart is horrible in the rust belt, as evidenced in this video. Plus, you're not getting the same quality materials, as were common in 1979. Engineering has come a long way since then, but so has ''value engineering''.
@@debtminer4976 I'm from the UK, it rains every other day here, and in the winter they throw salt everywhere, that said you're absolutely right, Ziebart probably used a far more toxic formula void of regulations back in the 70's which made it better and more durable than the modern stuff. No doubt the steel was better too! I'm not saying all steel comes from China now, but it all comes from China..."they don't build 'em like they used to".
"Do you have a brand new car that you thing your gonna protect by sealing your underside? Well try out new flex shot frame sealer" DISCLAIMER: MAY ROT FRAME
You’re probably the most informative mechanic I’ve seen on here. There are other good ones who sold out more to sponsors but you have maintained your legitimacy. Thank You!!!!
@@curiousnomadic Scotty has some helpful information, however he has sold out to the click bait algorithm, the more the days go by the more I see him flying off his rocker like Uncle Tony's garage has been doin. Opinionated, but not factually accurate.
@@curiousnomadic The clickbaiting has become disgraceful. Scotty used to be worth listening to but now I just question if he's saying something for cash.
@@apersonontheinternet8006 Project farm tested engine oil and diesel as a rust preventative product. Its results are very un-inspiring and pretty much as good as doing nothing.
@@explosivemallard8038 a big jug of professional stuff(FluidFilm) is only like 50 bucks and it'll last you years. Ain't worth fuckin around with engine oil.
The best rust protection method i know so far is 1. removing carefully all rust with different steelbrushes, 2. apply brunox with a brush (rust converter + epoxy primer, very expensive but it works very well) 3. spray ropefat, repeat after 2-3 years. It works for me in central europe where they have to put ridiculous amounts of salt/chemicals on the roads through the winter time.
if the job is done by professional you will not have those issues they will take care of the rust first and not spray cables , brake lines etc , if you do a shitty job then yes water can get inside just like any other kind of coating or paint
I have a 1974 Porsche 914 that was Zeibart coated when new. Much of the coating held up, but not everywhere. Overall it saved the car from a lot of rust. But mainly in areas where the metal was able to be coated on both sides.
My grandfather owned a ziebart from the 60s to the early 90s. They switched material and thought no one would notice. The original is an oil based self healing material. One application lasts the life of the vehicle. I restore cars in wisconsin and I can definitely tell if a car from here was ziebarted from New. It won't flake off EVER and the steel underneath is like brand new. They used to have a rust out guarantee of 10 years if I remember correctly. Also paid to repair it if it did rust. This is why he got out. Because of what your showing now.
@jonbrockman5308, I remember the original Ziebart. It would leak from the car for weeks, especially on hot summer days. It was pliable and would flow, not like this crap in the video.
Is there any info about the original composition left? And was it applied "as is" (room temperature) or some heated? I know one military-purposed composition for equipment conservation for decades (something like cannon fat) and it`s pretty bushy and needs to be slightly warmed to be applied. In cold seasons (after application) it doesn`t harden like rubberrized coat or mastic and remains on the metal surface without the formation of air bags for moisture. In first hot season after application it could have been dripping from under the car for week or two.
@@EatenBird I've had a Ziebart store for over 30 years and I can tell you Ziebart DID NOT change its undercoating!!!!! It was and still is an asphalt based product! I can assure you that what's in this video IS NOT a Ziebart product. Sadly some owners are not using a true Ziebart undercoat product but a cheaper rubberized coating. Many have since gone out of business after being caught. Sorry your friend got scammed. As you surely know it only takes a few shady mechanics to give all mechanics a bad name. I thought you would realize that before trashing a company.
@@Radar88269 I guess you made a mistake - I didn't speak negatively about Ziebart product. I just asked about composition (and you mentioned it`s rubberized coating). Maybe your answer is addressed to jonbrockman5308?
Hey... I live in California and I finally found something good about California... our cars don’t rot like those on the east coast. But that’s pretty much about all I can come up with.
living in California which is controlled by democrats... you have paid so much more in taxes.. other states ... you could have afforded to purchase another vehicle. and still have your freedoms still intact. Never vote democrat and live free from their tyranny
Kinda satisfying watching you peel off that rubber and see what's under it. Looks like a lawsuit waiting to happen, that really sucks your friend paid for that rubber coat service and it destroyed his truck. Thanks for the heads up bro!
@@1968zz4350 What a dumb analogy. There is no comparison. So with your logic... people typically go into a store to prevent their eyelashes from falling out? Idiot. The undercoating is bought FOR the purpose of preventing rust when in fact it does the exact opposite... it promotes rust and seeking damages in this case should be sought by the buyer.
I genuinely cannot understand the people attacking this comment. People making it out like there is some frivolous lawsuit epidemic. Cases like this are literally the reason why the civil judicial system exists. If you bought a product from a store, that claimed to meet or exceed all US regulations, you brought that product home, and it did not work, would you not try and return it? What if the store told you "tough shit"? What if they had a sign outside that outlined their return policy, which was conveniently missing when you returned? What if instead of simply not working, the product had an adverse affect on your health? Your safety? Are you telling me you'd lie down and take it? If the product caused your home to burn to the ground, would you be satisfied with a simple refund? Would you not even try to recoup the value of your destroyed property? The simple fact is, this person purchased a product that not only did not work as advertised, but also caused damage to this person's property, to which the product was applied.
They don't even get a lawsuit for a truck that's rusting through the rear fenders after 5 years. I mean fuck why aren't stainless steel brake lines mandatory unless there's some stupid Flex issue which could be alleviated by a rubber hose section that's easy to replace.
I am so glad I decided to do some research, when I was wanting to protect my Florida-bought vehicle from rust belt problems. That research led me to videos such as this, and led me to get that car treated with Krown rather than a rubberized coating.
Any oil coating will work,as it leaves a layer on the metal preventing oxidization ...lanolin or petroleum doesn't matter. Make sure it's liquid enough to creep into all crevices .
that was toyotas fix if the frame was rusty but not rotted through they just sprayed that crap over the rust , well you can guess how well that worked, so much for frame recall, l had to weld the frame, scrape all that crap off then spray it with bar and chain oil,
Why didn't you go back to the dealer and have them replace the entire frame? A family member of mine has an '06 Tacoma with a 1 year old frame... The brake lines were replaced among other parts- all covered by the recall. Now, it's pretty much the closest thing to a new truck in Upstate NY.
Ziebart was all over Detroit in the 1970s. IIRC, they offered a no rust warranty. If their stuff is 90% useless due to improper application procedures, why haven't the warranty claim ate them up financially? How they still exist is beyond me. "It's us or rust" used to be their slogan. Guess they should have said "It's us FOR rust". :)
It's most likely the *used* to do a good job, then went to cost saving methods as seen here, which involves just lazily spraying everything. You are *not* supposed to spray electrical connectors, those are made of plastic, will not rust and now it can't be maintained, lol @@scottkemp1460
I believe they offer a non rubberized/tar coating as well. My Tacoma has the Zeibart plugs, but it appears to have an oil spray instead. I wouldn't touch a vehicle with that tar/rubberized type coating.
I made a big mistake putting the Z undercoating on my 2014 silverado. Fortunately I got it off, it mostly fell off, using a needle scaler, scrapers etc. It was a rusty mess underneath. Cleaned it all off and used rustoleum rust reformer and black spray paint. I was the damage was minimal. I have used fluid film inside the frame box and now CRC Marine coating is my new favorite. So don't do the Z coating you will regret it. I agree 👍. Joe
FYI that stuff can be effective IF you are coating a panel that has been primed, painted and is 100% clean and dry. And has no rust. Which means it worthless for the types of applications Ziebart is using it on.
Wish I knew this year's ago when I used a rubberized product on my Prelude. The rust was thriving beneath the coating out of sight. When oil coatings became popular I started using them exclusively with exceptional results. Rust Check is an easy do it yourself product and if you're diligent an thorough you'll keep the rust away for a very long time.
I've got a '97 Type SH that was clearly a desert car. It must have sat out in the sun for 20 years because the paint is absolutely deep fried, but the car is entirely rust-free. It's got a couple of major dents that are purely cosmetic so I'm not sure if I'll have the body work done. I really just want to enjoy my car. It only gets driven on sunny days. I'd like for it to still be working another 10-15 years.
Thank You for doing this video. When my vehicle's undercarriage rusted away as a result of Ziebart I had to borrow another $ 10,000 to replace it. I watched your video on the Krown undercoating you did on your truck. The first thing I did to my car was have Krown put on. It is now coming up on it's 1 year anniversary and it's going back into Krown for it's annual application. I also live in the Rust Belt and after 1 year my undercarriage looks the SAME as when I bought it. Your opinion is Respected and you will save a LOT of people money if they take your advice !!!
Most people that have been in the rust belt for any length of time know what these "protective" coatings will do but this is an excellent video showing exactly what it does.If you buy a new vehicle and plan on keeping it then have the bottom side painted before it rust.The manufacturers dont want anything to last so nothing gets the benefit of paint anymore.Paint them,oil them and use cavity wax in hard to get to places and keep the salt sprayed off during winter driving and they will last.
paint isn't necessary if you get a good oil based undercoating, i live in Canada and my truck looks like new underside even though it's a 07 driven year round. A lot of (good) manufacturers use galvanized metal which does a great job, my 03 volvo is just starting to form rust spots even though it's never been undercoated before me but the whole car is galvanized steel. Same with some toyotas and lexuses.
Want a huge tip dont wash your vehicle at all in the winter because when you go to the car wash and everyone else goes to the car was and washes the salt off that salt and the water drain to the grate in the floor and is send back through a filter then back to a tank to be recycled well the filter dont get at tge salt out abd when you wash your car all your doing is straying water with salt in even tighter cracks and causing is to rust/rot even faster
I strictly used a fluid undercoating as well as the previous owner of my car. It went through 12 New England winters and has no rust on it at all. Other than a little paint fade and clear coat peeling my 08 Toyota Matrix is still looking decent.
So glad I stumbled upon this video. I was going to have LINE-X applied to my new 4Runner since I live in Ohio (salty winter roads). You saved me $400 for the application and the likely premature destruction of my new vehicle. Thank-you.
Do a krown oil spray, works great. They drill and spray rocker panels on the inside as well to make sure everything is coated in oil. My truck is 8years old lives outside 24/7 and driven in the Ontario Salt mine roads..😂 but no rust to be seen on the underside.
For record my brother in law had a 1969 pontiac grand prix. It was so clean . He decided to rubber undercoat frame trying to save any corrosion over time. An appraiser told him he devalued the car because they cldnt see what was under the coating on frame . Hard lesson learned figured I'd share this experience
The appraiser is partly right. But very little would it cause to devalue a car once you see that it is not hiding patch work beyond its original parts. Just need to look a little closer is all. Sounds to be like this guy was too lazy to give it a few more minutes of looking. It doesn't mean all cars are now devalued with undercoating's on them. And probably not even this one was substantially devalued enough to cause worry or loss. Don't believe anyone you listen to and for God sake don't post something just because now you believe what was being said! Truth is its all a matter of individuals who are buying or holding these investment vehicles. I'd rather mine be protected if I were driving it. If it is sitting in a climate controlled storage it wouldn't matter if it had undercoating or not. Thanks.
@@MrCbell57 Not sure how your comment makes much sense. There is nothing good about this rubber undercoating. It's essentially the illusion of protection so not sure how your comment " I'd rather mine be protected if I were driving it" makes any real sense. Also unless the person gives the appraiser permission to chip this crap off and or is willing to do it himself how can the appraiser truly know what's underneath? He's not being lazy, he's being a realist. How or why would anyone with any legitimacy put their name on something where they couldn't even truly see some of the most important parts of what they were supposed to be inspecting?
That is horrendous, and potentially deceitful. I'd be inclined to think the only reason they want you to re-apply every year is to ensure the damage remains hidden.
Probably the idea Originally had been to Seal any possible holes of the coating after thorought checktrough of them and proper cleaning of them etc... give it 50 years of cost saving and trying to be more efficient... and here we are
I've battled rust on old cars and saltwater boats and trailers. The rust converter products that turn the metal black actually change the metal and lock out oxidation. If the rust is deep it will bubble up again. Chipping away the surface before treatment helps. In a very good RUclips video there's a test and POR product won decisively. I've just started that one a year ago and it is doing good. Forms a hard black paint able surface. Farm lab is the site or something. They mostly use a zinc phosphate reaction and will turn skin purple. Use gloves. After several coats I use a marine grade zinc primer and marine paint for the sea and cheaper Rust-Oleum for the land. Make sure you don't have slow electric leaks as that can increase rust tenfold. Clean channels along trunk weatherstrip so water flows. Same with drain holes. Check it yearly because rust never sleeps.
Amen to that s*** there isn't a drop of rust on my 1997 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab she's exactly the way she rolled off the factory with over a million miles
If you keep up with getting the salt off you can mitigate a lot of the damage. You'll still rust out, but you can slow it down significantly by just cleaning it off regularly.
Rochester,Ny here...when i take trips south i see mid 90s cars even earlier years look brand fuckinnew and here i am in my car with rusted hood and back wheel well rust and shit like damn im jealous man!! One of the things making me consider moving somewhere south.
When I bought a brand new 1982 AMC 4X4 Eagle sedan, the car had "factory" Ziebart on the frame and body. Ziebart was very popular at the time. Around 8 years later the front passenger carpet started to smell musty. I went under the car and found that the floor had rotted away.
Home Depot had the same problem with their deck coatings. If you're going to try blocking water, you have to coat ALL sides. That frame had factory holes in it. I doubt it was coated inside there
All sides and in the absents of moisture. IF even the tiniest bit of rust has started, its useless. This is why body people cut so much back from the rusty spot. Almost like cancer, you have to cut away some of the good to make sure you get all the bad... leave a tiny bit, and it comes back with a vengeance 100x worse.
The best thing we have here for undercoating is underseal with added waxoyl, the waxoyl is a liquid type which actually removes moisture and stops rust spreading and the undercoat is great undercoating it actually works and I just spent a couple of days painting it on by hand so I didn’t paint fuel filters or anything stupid. Also I don’t know if this is an American thing but I’ve never seen a car with wiring underneath apart from abs it’s always run through the interior
I had my Jeep undercoated when I bought it, then found out what a mistake it was, a month or so later. Luckily it was only done one time, and I managed to save my truck through use of a lot of fluid film, pressure washing and many hours with a wire brush lol. My frame and suspension are luckily still in great shape. My wallet and pride, not as much.
And here I am, a car noob, thinking “Hrrm.. that stuff is probably a decent sound dampener.” It’s a good wake up call, especially since I’m in the market for a used car right now. I’ll be sure to put a lot of research into any modifications.
Has nothing to do with the product and everything to do with the person who applied it. I live in finland and every single car is undercoated with rubberized undercoating with 0 issues.
When I lived in Ontario, I painted the insides of the car doors with Vaseline. After 10 years of Canadian winters, I took a look inside again and not a spot of rust. Vaseline seeps into all the seams and keeps the water and salt out. Where it oozes out, it doesn't harm the paint and is easily wiped off.
Thanks for posting this. In Europe we tend to call this kind of stuff, that goes hard, ‘Shutz’ and the rust always rots steel underneath it. I spray a waxy stuff on all my trucks when new and it seals the paint for a good while. At around five years of age it benefits from a good clean and reapplication where obviously needed but otherwise a spray of clean engine oil does the job.
I spray the Fluid Film on my 2010 Tacoma here in Ma. There was a frame recall on the 2010 for rust. The dealer couldn't find a hole, so they wanted to coat it with their crap. I said no. My mechanic told me about Fluid Film. I bought a gallon, and the spray gun for under $100 online. It's one of the most satisfying feelings spraying it on. It's beautiful!
mark I’d have to research it. I found Fluid Film, so my research stops there. That is what I use because it gives me the results that I was looking for. You’ll see when you use it.
@@MacsWraps I was reading the bullet points for the rustoleum, which is also a spray like Fluid Film, and "rubberized " was one of the ingredients. Funny thing is there's no thickness to it at all. Idk if Fluid Film contains rubber as well
@@marco_75.7 I would assume its the same problem as this rubber stuff. If its not breathable, it will eventually have water creep and then your rust issue behind the layer of paint.
Krown is the way to go live in the rust belt and am driving an 03, spray a gallon of it on the underside and doors. Grease works good too on the frame, most of the frame is shiny metal like new no crusties. Bolts come off easy and its good on rubber.
Outstanding video Sir. People heed the warning. Never use any spray on undercoating. I use fluid film inside my rockers/doors/fenders. I use LPS 3 on frame/undercarriage/brake lines. My 2010 looks factory fresh living up in Vermont.
Damn! I don't blame you for refusing to work on cars with this crap on it, but I'm glad you did this one on video. I've never trusted the thick and goopy sort of undercoating, but it's worse than I thought. I'm in a very salty area too, and get an oil spray every year. In my Young And Foolish years, I worked at a couple of car dealers, prepping new cars to go out when sold. The sales staff always pushed their "rust proofing", which was a thick goopy crap like Ziebart. The first time I saw it, I figured that had to be trouble.
I thought you were kind of wimping out, complaning about working on a rusty vehicle until you showed all of the hose and electrical connectors. What a nightmare!
LOL, you mustn't have watched many videos. The amount of rust that rains out of those cars when he does any suspension related work is incredible. I though he was pretty clear about the problem. Plus it adds to he cost having to work through the coating to get to the problems. He is likely to get complaints that someone's buddy had the same problem on the same car and it cost less.
I did herculiner on the interior floors of my old jeep (same type of stuff). I did a lot of prep work but water still got between the costing and rusted out the floor boards. Oil base coatings are the way to go
Exactly what happened to my car! Used 3M, the RUSTROT started in the gas fuel pipe neck! Thanks for warning & saving a LOT of people from thousands of expense!
Great video! I have watched many of your videos, they are both informative and entertaining, one thing stands out (apart from your mechanical brilliance and amazing good looks!) is the complete abscense of curse words, it makes your videos so much more enjoyable! Thanks.
This is actually extremely common in the rust belt. It’s very sad. I live in Vermont, close to upstate ny. The rust is just as bad. Trucks these days don’t make it to see a decade before the rocker panels are rotted out and hanging down and the wheel wells are bubbling and perforated with rust. My 2013 Chevy frame looks like it’s been submerged in the ocean. Rust and flaking paint front to back on the frame. Body is okay though... for now. I suspect I’ll still be making payments on it when the body starts to rust out. And when it’s paid off I’ll be left with a pile of junk I can’t sell for a couple grand. I see trucks on a daily basis that are 2009 or 2010 model year that are so rusty they’ll see the crusher by this time next year. My 09 ford had about had it before I bought my Chevy. The cab corners were pretty bad and the rockers were totally gone. Next truck will be likely be some 90’s-2000’s cheap thing from down south. Way better of then spending another 20k on a half rotted truck.
I can't believe that 2013 car is rust. My friend has 1993 Acura, and he is living in Maryland. His car is fine. I think the dealership or manufacture did not put anti-rust or coat before selling cars.
I was impressed watching that box frame twist like paper when you pulled out that upper control arm. I'm not sure I'd consider that frame solid enough to hold onto the wheels.
Wow. I just went back and watched that again. I definitely would not put my family in that truck. I just replaced my upper control arms in my 97 GMC Sierra and I live in Pa and mine is no where close to this rusty. I have some rusty discoloration but no rot. Has to be a subpar material being used on later model vehicles. I would be furious if my fairly new Truck looked like this one does.
I thought that because it's late at night and I just got off a 12 hour shift my eyes were playing tricks on me when that control arm came out and the box frame moved, but apparently not! My 26 year old hoopdiemobile is in better shape than that janky crap!
Por 15 to me is the best rust protection. It's fluid going on and seals as hard as power coating. I rhinolined the bottom of my truck and it did the same thing as your video...rotted through. I thin applied POR 15 AND THAT Stuff is amazing. Don't get it on you cause it's like a tattoo. It won't come off
I've professionally undersealed my car with Dinitrol, but it was descaled, degreased, steam cleaned and dried beforehand, so hope my underseal will actually do its job.
You should also check the coating annually for cracks in the coating as even small cracks can allow in moisture. It seems that oil based sprays are best if applied annually.
Yeah I have free annual inspections. Obviously there is always rust showing up on moving parts but it's treated and converted back into harmless iron and topped up.
He is correct-I switched to fluid film early on thankfully on my Cherokee, and it seems to be working pretty well. Also: apply liberally on metal under battery tray to resist acid-induced corrosion
Been working on cars forever down south, customer came in from a road trip from the East coast. I’ve never seen such a rust bucket. I’ll never bitch about the heat down here again, all our cars are in pristine condition (regarding rust) and it’s just astounding to me.
It's all about the prep before application. We do undercoatings and offer a 5 and 10 year warranty for cars that are inspected annually. All surfaces must be completely cleaned, treated and completely dried before application. I've have a 1973 and a 1974 VW Thing that was treated several years ago and there is no sign of failure on either. Not one bubble. The moisture that was between the coating and the metal on this truck was there before the coating was applied.
At my shop we do krown. It's one of the more expensive options but for the love of the car gods, use any of these types, krown, fluid film, rust check, any of it will prolong your car up here where there is snow and salt and stuff 3 or 4 months of the year. Krown offers a fantastic warranty of you do it from new. If you use one of these products from new and do it yearly the car will last forever. Plus most of these are environmentally friendly products and won't harm your driveway or garage floor if they drip on it.
Michael O I have not seen theirs but we had to send our guys on a 2 day course, each vehicle takes about an hour to properly do, it goes in every door and panel. It's good stuff, but if the person spraying is clueless, then you'll never get a good job.
One small open area with a rubberized undercoating will allow water and salt to enter and sit right in between the coating and metal. It would have to be flawless for it to work.
This is an eye opening content. I am about to go for under coating b4 watching this, but now i will not waste my hard earned money for this thing. Thank you for this info.
I’ve always used boiled linseed oil annually on my ‘99 Jeep TJ with 300k miles. I live in an area where roads are salted. I’ve had amazing results with this simple product and there isn’t any serious rust on the body or frame and it’s cheap.
We used to spray diesel fuel on our old sprayer trucks. It was not a clean method and it collected dirt but when you washed it off the frames looked brand new paint and all. Lots of good methods out there for sure.
@@dieselman8v923 we used to spray diesel all over our race cars so the mud would just fall of mostly & when you 'hit' it with the Gerni it dropped right off!
What I recommend don’t put any of this coating crap on anything! I see this all the time with “waxoyl” over here. Makes them a nightmare to work on and like you say it just locks in moisture and rust. People will spend ££££ “rust proofing my advice keep your money spend it on a hot pressure washer and clean it regularly! 4x4s that I see that have a tough life but are regularly washed are always 10 times better.
TDM 4x4 With my car i normally just jet wash underneath every other week in winter and i treated a few bad rust spots with the grinder and zinc based paint.
i just have some anti rust spray i put on, its greasy and oil-like. put it on before winter and it seems to repel stuff pretty well. just have to reapply lots.
Worked for a company that we did a lot of winter driving and in the bush/through the mud. We bought 3 trucks at the same time. Pushed the truck I was in up till 200,000 km, washed it upwards of once a day depending on conditions and how much we drove. The other two rarely got washed, had half the KM on it and the frames were rusted. Cleaning goes a long way, even if it's just a water rinse
Any undercoating needs to be breathable. Meaning that it will allow any moisture that gets in to get out. Oil based coatings are good, though a disaster to the environment, as are wax based coatings. I personally prefer the wax, as you can see through it (and therefore see potential problems) and they're thin enough that they won't plug drain holes, but they don't like really high temperatures, so if you steam clean the underside of your car, you'll need to recoat anywhere it melted off. Still, Volvo switched to the wax in 1992, and the later cars simply don't rust out unless you're really stupid. As for that truck, the frames on GM trucks are made of weathering steel. They're SUPPOSED to develop a light coating of rust as the factory spray coat wears off. That light coating protects the rest of it- as long as it can breathe. Apply that crap to it, and all bets are off.
I'm so glad I watched this video. I just purchased a 2018 GMC from MI and I live in MN. I was going to have it undercoated in the next week. You just saved my you know what!!! Now I have to find your video on Fluid film.
I once bought a car that had been rustproofed by the dealer. A few months later, while driving, I heard a sloshing sound. The weep holes in the door bottoms had been "sealed." The doors were filling with water.
We used to pressure wash the undercarriage to clean off the dirt, let it dry, then spray them with chainsaw lubricant, which is a lot cheaper than Fluid Film. Worked pretty well from what I remember. I still have my 1984 Chevy, and it has no more rust than a 2006 GMC I bought used last year. The winner, though, is the 2007 Honda Pilot.
I never use the undercoat, but have used the rubber spray on stone guard, but only in two places. First, on any "tuck under" at the bottom of the car where stones hit. Just keep an eye on it, being prepared to repair as nevessary. The other is a bit more unusual, but very effective on old cars. Using chalk dust i outline all the chrome trim, then carefully remove the trim. I mask off around the trim area, then sorsy on the rubber stone guard. Allow it to dry then prime and paint. Reinstall the trim, and nobody can tell. The rubber forms a barrier between car and trim as well as civering the sides of any holes for trim clips. The barrier works because it prevents a galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals. I've seen this last more than 20 years with zero rust under the trim.
I make my own undercoating. A mix of motor oil, automotive grease, and boiled linseed oil: mix to the consistency of maple syrup. Apply with a paint brush.
@@QuintTheSharker I've always been told after a oil change brush it on the frame and go for a drive more gravel roads the better. Havnt done it personally but seems to work.
CLASSICSHOELACES. You’re probably on to something. The used motor oil would look better since it’s darker than the new motor oil I used. I put it on the frame in the wheel well too. The factory GM coating doesn’t work that well 😕
My stepfather paid to have that crap painted on his brand new truck in 1977. By the time that truck was ten years old, it was falling off the frame. Eventually there was almost nothing connecting the bed to the frame, and the floor pans no longer existed. You had to drive it with one foot on the transmission and one on the door frame.
As a kid in the 70s, I fully bought into the Zeibart thing. Thankfully was not even 10 years old. Just as my late father used to say about "magic" oil additives - if it was that good, they would add it from the factory. Thanks for this video
@@xfastxeddiex I think you missed my point. Zeibart was a terrible product. That thick coating was a bad idea as it could trap moisture in. Slick 50 sounded like a great idea in the 80s into the 90s. Until it came out that DuPont highly recommended to not use Teflon as a motor lubricant. If a magic oil supplement really did work, the factories would call for it.
Cars do have rubberized undercoating from the factory tho. Difference is when applied to brand new 100% rust free metal it works wonders. This product shouldn't be used unless after a repair or restoration where you have sandblasted or ground to clean metal. It was sadly advertized and used by many people and companies to be used to prolong a car's life but quite obviously waxy coatings are better for that, and rubberized coatings are not appropriate for surfaces that could have rust already, because their whole job is to give a strong seal, which is a good thing when you have clean metal and not so much when you're trapping rust underneath. Different products got different uses, doesn't mean one product is necessarily better than the other, but sadly companies badly advertize their stuff because it makes it sell more.
Thank you! Went to bank today and withdrew of $ 18,000 for a truck in Okeechobee, Fl. It is a 2010 Sierra truck with 65,000. Miles Beautiful truck fully loaded leather interior and ran vin number with my nephew who works at a Toyota dealership that matched the trucks description but after all this I test drove with the owner and was truly excited about the purchase. Afterwards he lifted the hood and topside everything looked clean! I decided to crawl underneath… bubbles of paint at the lower panel’s and everything had the thick rubber coating. He said he had it sprayed every other year. It was flaking off the entire framing, springs, and all components were exposed rust! I asked did he live near salt? He said no, but they did salt their roadways with sand mixed with salt. I ask where he lived knowing his accent was French and he said Quebec, Canada. Nope it’s not happening especially after watching your video, will inform him tomorrow it’s a no go. I guess all should be wary of Canadian vehicles.
This makes me thankful of the south even more. I live in texas and my truck is 21 yrs old. I wouldn't trade it for a 2 yr old truck from new York. Tx ftw
I've had pretty good luck Fluid Film, applied to a cleaned and dried frame. We have rust issues in coastal Alaska, but nothing near as bad as the Northeast or Midwest. Every time I go out there, it makes me want to take pictures of vehicles and start a photo series called, "Where they rust" to document where and how vehicles rot out. It would be an interesting photo collage for those of us not living in the salt belt. I'm not sure what sort of factory coating Volvo uses, but those always stand out to me as cars that are extremely corrosion proof. My '96 Volvo 850 Turbo still looks factory new underneath, somehow!
Cannabis Country lol some parts just got snow before thanksgiving, and they were already spreading the brine solution on the roads. Not as bad as NY or New England for rust, but still not Georgia.
4 or 5 years ago, I worked for a tree service. One day they asked me to get in their 1987 Silverado and head to a job site. When I looked at it I was amazed at how nice it was. I asked if they got it out of state and they said no, it was a local truck. I asked if they only drive it in summer, they said no they drive it all winter. At this point I’m flabbergasted and asked them what kind of sorcery is this? Oil. They asked me to go look under my rusty Jeep, and when I did, I saw that the only spot without rust on it, literally gorgeous paint still there, was where it was leaking oil (good ol’ Jeep 4.0 inline 6 tractor engine). Made a believer out of me. All those coatings out there? Junk. At best they last a short while, at worst (the subject of this video) they speed up rot. JUST OIL YOUR SH**!
Fluid Film would probably be a better solution than oil. Easier to apply (comes in spray cans or you can an air compressor), non-flammable, and may stay on a little better than motor oil, and better for the environment than leaving oil everywhere you go.
@@illhaveanother4365 So does Radon, Plutonium, Arsenic, virtually every kind of deadly mushroom, and so do centipedes, round worms, and cyanobacteria. And so does water. Since oil coming from the ground means it's perfectly harmless, how about this: go pour a quart of oil in a small pot, cook yourself a pack of Top Ramen in it, and eat it. Let's see how that works out for you, genius. I'd be amazed if you managed to get the electric stove turned on without blowing your house up somehow.
UPDATE: I sent the old WJ off to a farm, dude still drives it out there so I’m happy she’s still alive. I scored a rust-free Cherokee from Florida and just paid $130 to have it oil sprayed at some place locally. Wish me luck y’all.
Was looking for a car once. I reached down and felt the nice smooth undersea. Then I tripped and grabbed the inner sill as I fell. The whole sill disintegrated destroying the outer sill as well. I was left trying to kick it back while making an excuse as to why I did not want a test drive. All with a brand new MOT.
That's insane. Lots of ziebart in Minnesota and other snow states. Unbelievable people pay hundreds to have this done and it's killing your car. Thank you for showing this.
Thank you for this video. My daughter bought a 78 F150 from the South and it’s rust free. However, we live in Connecticut and she wanted to get it undercoated. Thank you for saving her truck!
What you are describing in this video is the result of a failed application of rubberized undercoating. I have been installing and correcting corrosion protection jobs for about 20 years. If the vehicle is already starting to experience corrosion (Even a couple days of salty driving will do it) and these products are applied without proper prep, it will result in the condition you cover in this video. These products need to be applied to clean metal on all the easily accesible surfaces on the undercarriage. Then, all the cavities such as the rockers, frame, bedsides, subframes, door skins etc need to be treated with a more fluid protection product such as fluid film or other similar products. During a professional installation, all connections that could cause mechanics problems like you describe SHOULD BE taped off. I've been in probably 100+ shops and maybe 5 of them installed these products correctly. It's a major scam and people are being ripped off because a barrel of product is at most $1000. One barrel will do 30-50 vehicles. Customers are paying almost the cost of the whole barrel for one application. These poor no prep jobs that result in horrible rust only take 30 minutes to do. Properly prepped and applied you're looking at about half a day on a 3/4 ton truck. So installers are not taking the time and ripping everyone off for quick profits, taking advantage of customers lack of knowledge. Properly applied, rubberized undercoating offers amazing benefits. But the only way to keep your vehicle completely free of terrible corrosion is to not drive in salt. Buy an older beater for the winter, you are actually saving your money on depreciation of newer vehicles if you do decide to go that route.
i agree. More prep . Defiantly was dirty or had moisture/salt on it before spraying.m i have a 2015 chevy and the stock frame coating is like tar. I heard u dont want to spray fluid film on it . they say it will eat it away?
I was thinking of doing this to my 2014 car, which has some rust spots on the control arms, but not anymore. Is there anything that can be done? Applied on top of it that would not cause this disaster? What about using a rust converter, encapsulator, they usually come in black
I don't believe that there is a "proper" way to install a coating. It's the edges of ANY coating that will allow seepage of salt and water between it and the frame. Even if the coating is bonded to the metal, the edges will still allow seepage. Then, it's bye-bye frame. If I lived in the NE, I would consider a physical barrier between the frame and road, like they put underneath RVs. A plastic barrier that would prevent the salt from getting int here to begin with. Then, after the winter, remove it, wash the frame with fresh water until the next winter.
When i was growing up, my uncle would do an oil change on his car every summer. He would then paint the old oil over the underside of his car. Never had any welding! 😎
Sadly old engine oil is only minimally better than leaving it unprotected. Way too thin to not get washed off (and that's bad not only for the car) and it's building up a dirt layer .. and dirt loves to hold moisture advocating rust. I can recommend project farm on RUclips. He is very thorough with his tests.
@@SpaceShipDeathstar the only time the used engine oil trick works if you have a persistent oil leak that is constantly spraying hot oil around .won't protect the rear chassis mind only halfway down .I guess if he changed his oil three times a year it would have some benefit.they say old gearbox is good as its more clingy but your vehicle safety cert inspector will hate you .
@@SpaceShipDeathstar the only time the used engine oil trick works if you have a persistent oil leak that is constantly spraying hot oil around .won't protect the rear chassis mind only halfway down .I guess if he changed his oil three times a year it would have some benefit.they say old gearbox is good as its more clingy but your vehicle safety cert inspector will hate you .
When I was an apprentice back in the day I was working on an 1987 vw Jetta it was in 91 or 92 it was the early 90's I had put a master cylinder in it and had got into the car to move it. I fell through the floor seat and all. The owner 80lbs female wasn't heavy enough. Me at 230lbs wasn't good. Funny thing.... She was so proud about how she took care of it. The complete floor was like foil supper thin and full of pin holes. It was a shame the rest of the car was mint. If I remember correctly I think it was tar or even roofing tar. Can't remember just remember driving that car to the wreckers watching the ground below me while sitting on boards spread across..... Good times.
@@chrishernandez2490 well everyone trys to blame someone else. At the time the client was a little on the protective anal side. When I got in it I hardly moved and fell through. Only reason I got in it was because I was closest to it and the owner was nervous about reversing off of the rack. But in the end no I was not blamed for it or asked to pay for it. You can't blame people when somthing catastrophic happens. It is just human nature.
@ well I guess you were there and were the one who went through the thing. Early vw floor pans were just that a pan and they are sort of know for rotting or at least they are up here in Ontario. I guess it is the price I paid for being a hevier kid. The garbage they put on our roads kill everything.
You should update us on this truck. @ 5:30, when you pulled out that upper control arm, the right mount point of that bracket actually flexed or moved a bit like it could just snap off. To me, that thing is not even safe to be on the road anymore at that point. That's horrible...
He can sell it to carmax will buy anything i guess. only 55k miles and a 2011. Such a shame that truck can easily last few more hundred of dollars of miles.
I would be PISSED if this happened to my vehicle. I'm in Michigan and have a 2006 subaru with no coating. I've got some rust but nowhere near what this truck has. Losing the truck so quickly to rust...shocking
in Germany we have plenty of salt in winter times on the road. Black "Bitumen" undercoating was popular for many years with same results as you show. I preferred the wax type undercoating therefor. Well refurbishing this frame will cost a fortune I guess, maybe with an ultra strong water sandblasting it could be achieved ...
Yeah, sounds like you're describing products like Wool Wax or Fluid Film (Not sure if those brands are sold there). That's the only way to do it. Spray it on every fall before winter if you're in a high-salt area, or every 2 years if it doesn't see as much salt.
I try to speak really clear and slow in the video however that does not seem to be to effective so I will write it out here as slow as I can type so you can follow along:
A: This was not a DIY at home job after the truck was already rusted. This truck was sprayed by Ziebart here in NY the day it was purchased NEW before the customer took delivery of the vehicle. I have the receipts to prove it.
B: Every year after the original date of purchase it was taking in to Ziebart to have the coating "reapplied" per their recommendation to "keep the warranty."
C: This shit will destroy your car no matter how much "surface prep" you do. I have been working in the salt belt as a mechanic for over 25 years. This stuff that Ziebart sprays on is complete shit and will 100% destroy your vehicle at an accelerated rate.
D: Use Fluid Film, Krown, NOHC, surface shield or some other for of "oil undercoating" if you live in the rust belt and want your car to last more than 11 years
E: You have a nice day 👍🏼
I heard you the first time! lol, good work. Nice channel
i have an idea, stop using salt on the roads.
Wow. This is the first I've ever heard of this .
@@Cara.314 Tell that to the Frost Giants. If they stop pissing snow on the roads, we will stop throwing down salt.
Spot on and absolutely correct.
Old Landrovers have a nice self-oiling chassis system, it'll even oil your driveway for you.
No oil under it, no oil in it. Same goes for Fords and Vauxhalls
Lol a friend of mine had a honda with a self changing oil system.
And the Land rovers oil system doesn't glue your wiring harnesses together. Win-win.
My bmw does the same
Hey, must be chevy trying to add luxury features but my old suburban does a great job keeping its undercarriage and the driveway well coated.
We all know one great rust proofing method just have a huge oil leak..
Fix oil leak for inspection and enjoy your rusty engine block a year later. So frustrating every time...
And it seals your driveway......lol
We have an old 98 freightliner FL70 with an 8.3 Cummins that leaks oil bad. No rust on the frame at all it undercoats itself while driving down the road. Only rust from the salt is on the side mounted fuel tanks under the doors and the top part of the steel deck.
I have a 99 Dodge Cummins with the corrosion protection feature too.
We my Honda Civic is golden then. Check the fuel and fill the oil.
Hate rust? Buy any jeep with the 4.0 they come with anti rust lubricants straight from the valve cover, rear main, and oil filter elbow
the differentials also stay pretty rust free because of the pinion seals
oh a bit like land rovers, known for getting the sump gaskets redone before the new owner had even picked the thing up
My 94 f150 has the 300 six. All the same oil leaks and then some... not a single stuck bolt on the back half of the engine lol
I see what u did there. 👍
I think mine was broken, it didn't leak from any those spots...
bad rear main seal and a bad rear end pinion seal are the best under coating you can get.
lol, just take your used motor oil and put it in a pressure sprayer and coat the underside of your car with it
Hey thats not a bad idea.
@@evilwoodchuck My uncle used to do exactly that. Said it was a pretty standard service for mechanic shops in the 1950s.
My Jaguar was "factory designed" to have automatic undercarriage rust preventative treatment. About a liter every 2000 miles.
I owned a 1995 s320 with a bad rear main seal and not one bit of rust under the car
I got some rust in my eyes from watching this video Lol
I instinctively squinted when the rust started flying
@18matts: OUCH!
Do you know the way?
Driveway mechanics laying under their classic car unbolting things will instantly recognize this feeling. 😅
@@RustOnWheels Or a 1/8inch thick layer of leaking oil and dirt falling everywhere lol
55,000 looks like 400,000
my Michigan driven f250 has 400k and looks better than this
david mcknight my 16 year old 160k mile mistubushi looks 10/10 better.... only surface rust on some rock guards, and the rest has plastic coverings
Its looks like its been in Atlantic ocean for thirty years.
The bigger reason that GM and Chrysler have major corrosion issues is due to reduced costs in metal plating processes at the factory. Nothing is cadmium played anymore and hex chrome has been eliminated on anything 2010 and newer due to environmental and cost. Same problem in the aerospace industry. New Cessna 172’s have major corrosion issues in the tail section after just a few years. Yet a chromated tail section from a 1955 Cessna 172 still looks brand new today. Build it cheap....build it fast....sell it at a high price....shorter service life. My 2007 Lexus chassis (all hex chrome and cad plated parts) has minimal rust and I live in the Midwest where we have nuclear road salt. This year I will give fluid film a try.
My 03 Silveraydoe 210k miles looks better than this. Jesus
You, my friend, just changed my life.
Glad I saw this, I’ll be canceling my under coating at Ziebart
Oil base is the best one , not rubber
So, did you catch it before you had any coatings? If you already have 1 it's too late.
I have a car the had Ziebart applied to the underside in 1979, it it mint under there! If you scratch it back the paint is as good as new. The engine bay is perfect, no welding. The only rust I have is the areas not covered in ziebart.
@@ollie2244 I'm sure it works very well in Arizona 🙄
Ziebart is horrible in the rust belt, as evidenced in this video. Plus, you're not getting the same quality materials, as were common in 1979. Engineering has come a long way since then, but so has ''value engineering''.
@@debtminer4976 I'm from the UK, it rains every other day here, and in the winter they throw salt everywhere, that said you're absolutely right, Ziebart probably used a far more toxic formula void of regulations back in the 70's which made it better and more durable than the modern stuff. No doubt the steel was better too! I'm not saying all steel comes from China now, but it all comes from China..."they don't build 'em like they used to".
Phil Swift here with FLEX SEAL!!!!!!!
Ryan Bruneau LOL that's great
That's alotta damage!!
"Do you have a brand new car that you thing your gonna protect by sealing your underside? Well try out new flex shot frame sealer" DISCLAIMER: MAY ROT FRAME
HEY GUYS, BILLY MAYS HERE!!!
Flexon 💪
You’re probably the most informative mechanic I’ve seen on here. There are other good ones who sold out more to sponsors but you have maintained your legitimacy. Thank You!!!!
I've been trusting Scotty Kilmer and he recommended RUST BULLET but he's from Texas and doesn't know a damn thing about road salt. Argh.
@@curiousnomadic
Scotty has some helpful information, however he has sold out to the click bait algorithm, the more the days go by the more I see him flying off his rocker like Uncle Tony's garage has been doin.
Opinionated, but not factually accurate.
@@jaredpaulsen3 He does clickbait like crazy. It's annoying.
@@curiousnomadic
The clickbaiting has become disgraceful.
Scotty used to be worth listening to but now I just question if he's saying something for cash.
I always intended to buy a few cans and apply rubberized undercoating... Glad I was too lazy to get around to it!
Laziness is rather productive when you consider the avoided re-doing of stuff.
I'd fist bump you, but...ehh...
Engine oil cut with diesel and a dirt or gravel road is all you need.
@@apersonontheinternet8006 Project farm tested engine oil and diesel as a rust preventative product. Its results are very un-inspiring and pretty much as good as doing nothing.
@@explosivemallard8038 a big jug of professional stuff(FluidFilm) is only like 50 bucks and it'll last you years. Ain't worth fuckin around with engine oil.
Same here! 😂🤣
The best rust protection method i know so far is 1. removing carefully all rust with different steelbrushes, 2. apply brunox with a brush (rust converter + epoxy primer, very expensive but it works very well) 3. spray ropefat, repeat after 2-3 years. It works for me in central europe where they have to put ridiculous amounts of salt/chemicals on the roads through the winter time.
Wtf is ropefat
@@anotherdrunkaspiringwriter epoxy coating paint
I literally just got a quote from ziebarts 2 hours ago. This video just saved my truck.
Get it done anyways 😜 it might work out pleasantly for u.
if the job is done by professional you will not have those issues they will take care of the rust first and not spray cables , brake lines etc , if you do a shitty job then yes water can get inside just like any other kind of coating or paint
ZIEBART DEALER
I have a 1974 Porsche 914 that was Zeibart coated when new. Much of the coating held up, but not everywhere. Overall it saved the car from a lot of rust. But mainly in areas where the metal was able to be coated on both sides.
The issue is that you’re taking a chance
I have a 944 you are mostly correct that it saves the under neath I'm having the opposite issue My car is rotting out from the inside lol
Perhaps Porsche uses a better grade of metal?
@@BoleDaPole I wonder if it was 1974 that used a better grade of metal.
My grandfather owned a ziebart from the 60s to the early 90s. They switched material and thought no one would notice. The original is an oil based self healing material. One application lasts the life of the vehicle. I restore cars in wisconsin and I can definitely tell if a car from here was ziebarted from New. It won't flake off EVER and the steel underneath is like brand new. They used to have a rust out guarantee of 10 years if I remember correctly. Also paid to repair it if it did rust. This is why he got out. Because of what your showing now.
@jonbrockman5308, I remember the original Ziebart. It would leak from the car for weeks, especially on hot summer days. It was pliable and would flow, not like this crap in the video.
@@Dixler683 still have a few drums of the original stuff. Gonna use it on a few restorations possibly.
Is there any info about the original composition left? And was it applied "as is" (room temperature) or some heated? I know one military-purposed composition for equipment conservation for decades (something like cannon fat) and it`s pretty bushy and needs to be slightly warmed to be applied. In cold seasons (after application) it doesn`t harden like rubberrized coat or mastic and remains on the metal surface without the formation of air bags for moisture. In first hot season after application it could have been dripping from under the car for week or two.
@@EatenBird I've had a Ziebart store for over 30 years and I can tell you Ziebart DID NOT change its undercoating!!!!! It was and still is an asphalt based product! I can assure you that what's in this video IS NOT a Ziebart product. Sadly some owners are not using a true Ziebart undercoat product but a cheaper rubberized coating. Many have since gone out of business after being caught. Sorry your friend got scammed. As you surely know it only takes a few shady mechanics to give all mechanics a bad name. I thought you would realize that before trashing a company.
@@Radar88269 I guess you made a mistake - I didn't speak negatively about Ziebart product. I just asked about composition (and you mentioned it`s rubberized coating). Maybe your answer is addressed to jonbrockman5308?
Hey... I live in California and I finally found something good about California... our cars don’t rot like those on the east coast. But that’s pretty much about all I can come up with.
True but the sun tends to damage paint more in the west coast
East coast? You mean the mid West right? No salt around here in North Carolina.
living in California which is controlled by democrats... you have paid so much more in taxes.. other states ... you could have afforded to purchase another vehicle. and still have your freedoms still intact. Never vote democrat and live free from their tyranny
@@markochipsmarkochips3866 lol im in california and im as free as a bird.... funny thing is more things are outlawed in conservative states like weed
Same with AZ. Still no reason to live in CA 😋
The truck was fine until you rusted it with your screwdriver!
that bad air!
@@MrZucchinii I was thinking the same thing.
Yah it’s not your truck should’ve never started scraping all over his truck bad for business buddy
Kidding?
I sure that's what the company would say
Kinda satisfying watching you peel off that rubber and see what's under it. Looks like a lawsuit waiting to happen, that really sucks your friend paid for that rubber coat service and it destroyed his truck. Thanks for the heads up bro!
The rust destroyed the truck though
Lawyer fee$ co$t more than that truck.
@@1968zz4350 What a dumb analogy. There is no comparison. So with your logic... people typically go into a store to prevent their eyelashes from falling out? Idiot. The undercoating is bought FOR the purpose of preventing rust when in fact it does the exact opposite... it promotes rust and seeking damages in this case should be sought by the buyer.
I genuinely cannot understand the people attacking this comment. People making it out like there is some frivolous lawsuit epidemic. Cases like this are literally the reason why the civil judicial system exists.
If you bought a product from a store, that claimed to meet or exceed all US regulations, you brought that product home, and it did not work, would you not try and return it? What if the store told you "tough shit"? What if they had a sign outside that outlined their return policy, which was conveniently missing when you returned? What if instead of simply not working, the product had an adverse affect on your health? Your safety? Are you telling me you'd lie down and take it? If the product caused your home to burn to the ground, would you be satisfied with a simple refund? Would you not even try to recoup the value of your destroyed property?
The simple fact is, this person purchased a product that not only did not work as advertised, but also caused damage to this person's property, to which the product was applied.
They don't even get a lawsuit for a truck that's rusting through the rear fenders after 5 years. I mean fuck why aren't stainless steel brake lines mandatory unless there's some stupid Flex issue which could be alleviated by a rubber hose section that's easy to replace.
I am so glad I decided to do some research, when I was wanting to protect my Florida-bought vehicle from rust belt problems. That research led me to videos such as this, and led me to get that car treated with Krown rather than a rubberized coating.
Thank you! I live in MICHIGAN and bought a vehicle from Tennessee and was wondering which is best to use for this.
@@LaNoire27 I think fluid film coatings are the best thing ever.
Any oil coating will work,as it leaves a layer on the metal preventing oxidization ...lanolin or petroleum doesn't matter. Make sure it's liquid enough to creep into all crevices .
that was toyotas fix if the frame was rusty but not rotted through they just sprayed that crap over the rust , well you can guess how well that worked, so much for frame recall, l had to weld the frame, scrape all that crap off then spray it with bar and chain oil,
Hey young man
What are you doing here 😁
Get back in the shop🤣🤣🖐
See you on the next video
RESPECT to mustie jr.
I used medium bar and chain oil and it will wash off within a year
Why didn't you go back to the dealer and have them replace the entire frame? A family member of mine has an '06 Tacoma with a 1 year old frame... The brake lines were replaced among other parts- all covered by the recall. Now, it's pretty much the closest thing to a new truck in Upstate NY.
Mustie1 is here. I’m a fan.
Chris N after 10 years the frame recall is not done
I"m shocked that Ziebart is still around. As a kid I remember seeing a lot of cars that were rusted to heck but had a Ziebart sticker on it.
Ziebart was all over Detroit in the 1970s. IIRC, they offered a no rust warranty. If their stuff is 90% useless due to improper application procedures, why haven't the warranty claim ate them up financially? How they still exist is beyond me. "It's us or rust" used to be their slogan. Guess they should have said "It's us FOR rust". :)
ziebart does a good job i have seen many cars after a long term in the salt the cars always hold up well
It's most likely the *used* to do a good job, then went to cost saving methods as seen here, which involves just lazily spraying everything. You are *not* supposed to spray electrical connectors, those are made of plastic, will not rust and now it can't be maintained, lol @@scottkemp1460
I believe they offer a non rubberized/tar coating as well. My Tacoma has the Zeibart plugs, but it appears to have an oil spray instead. I wouldn't touch a vehicle with that tar/rubberized type coating.
Best Instructional Video Yet! Wow!
You Literally Just Educated All Of Us And Save Us From A Disaster! Respect To You Sir! 😎
I made a big mistake putting the Z undercoating on my 2014 silverado. Fortunately I got it off, it mostly fell off, using a needle scaler, scrapers etc. It was a rusty mess underneath. Cleaned it all off and used rustoleum rust reformer and black spray paint. I was the damage was minimal. I have used fluid film inside the frame box and now CRC Marine coating is my new favorite. So don't do the Z coating you will regret it. I agree 👍. Joe
FYI that stuff can be effective IF you are coating a panel that has been primed, painted and is 100% clean and dry. And has no rust. Which means it worthless for the types of applications Ziebart is using it on.
Wish I knew this year's ago when I used a rubberized product on my Prelude. The rust was thriving beneath the coating out of sight. When oil coatings became popular I started using them exclusively with exceptional results. Rust Check is an easy do it yourself product and if you're diligent an thorough you'll keep the rust away for a very long time.
Loved those cars. FIrst car was a 4th Gen Prelude. Sexy curves!!
Rust check for the win! I wish id know about the product before learning the hard way about rubberized undercoating. Bye bye rear bumper 😅
This kind of shit is the worst. My work won’t refuse ANY work. Corporate ass hats. They also usually won’t get additional labor for repairs like this.
I've got a '97 Type SH that was clearly a desert car. It must have sat out in the sun for 20 years because the paint is absolutely deep fried, but the car is entirely rust-free. It's got a couple of major dents that are purely cosmetic so I'm not sure if I'll have the body work done. I really just want to enjoy my car. It only gets driven on sunny days. I'd like for it to still be working another 10-15 years.
Thank You for doing this video. When my vehicle's undercarriage rusted away as a result of Ziebart I had to borrow another $ 10,000 to replace it. I watched your video on the Krown undercoating you did on your truck. The first thing I did to my car was have Krown put on. It is now coming up on it's 1 year anniversary and it's going back into Krown for it's annual application. I also live in the Rust Belt and after 1 year my undercarriage looks the SAME as when I bought it. Your opinion is Respected and you will save a LOT of people money if they take your advice !!!
ohdeerme - glad you don't have the Ziebart product anymore!
We need more people like u. You are not afraid to expose and complaint about this type of issue. I appreciate very much your info.
Great video never thought of "rust proofing" my truck since I live in Texas but I'm glad I watched this video
I would say if anyone absolutely wants to rhino line the frame then take the cab and everything but the wheels off before they do.
I think the only way to prevent rust on your vehicle is to get a horse....
@@slateslavens But then you would have to deal with colic! :)
Most people that have been in the rust belt for any length of time know what these "protective" coatings will do but this is an excellent video showing exactly what it does.If you buy a new vehicle and plan on keeping it then have the bottom side painted before it rust.The manufacturers dont want anything to last so nothing gets the benefit of paint anymore.Paint them,oil them and use cavity wax in hard to get to places and keep the salt sprayed off during winter driving and they will last.
paint isn't necessary if you get a good oil based undercoating, i live in Canada and my truck looks like new underside even though it's a 07 driven year round. A lot of (good) manufacturers use galvanized metal which does a great job, my 03 volvo is just starting to form rust spots even though it's never been undercoated before me but the whole car is galvanized steel. Same with some toyotas and lexuses.
Want a huge tip dont wash your vehicle at all in the winter because when you go to the car wash and everyone else goes to the car was and washes the salt off that salt and the water drain to the grate in the floor and is send back through a filter then back to a tank to be recycled well the filter dont get at tge salt out abd when you wash your car all your doing is straying water with salt in even tighter cracks and causing is to rust/rot even faster
@@zachbuchholz3810 thank you for passing that on
@@zachbuchholz3810 wash the undercarriage in your driveway whenever it's above freezing.
@@zachbuchholz3810 I don't live in the north but I could imagine that's how it goes. Crazy stuff.
I strictly used a fluid undercoating as well as the previous owner of my car. It went through 12 New England winters and has no rust on it at all. Other than a little paint fade and clear coat peeling my 08 Toyota Matrix is still looking decent.
So glad I stumbled upon this video. I was going to have LINE-X applied to my new 4Runner since I live in Ohio (salty winter roads). You saved me $400 for the application and the likely premature destruction of my new vehicle. Thank-you.
Do a krown oil spray, works great. They drill and spray rocker panels on the inside as well to make sure everything is coated in oil. My truck is 8years old lives outside 24/7 and driven in the Ontario Salt mine roads..😂 but no rust to be seen on the underside.
I ended-up w/ DIY Fluid Film application. Not as good as what you describe, but certainly better than nothing at all.@@DL101ca
if you have a bedliner take it out and fluid film the bed thick then put back in...
For record my brother in law had a 1969 pontiac grand prix. It was so clean . He decided to rubber undercoat frame trying to save any corrosion over time. An appraiser told him he devalued the car because they cldnt see what was under the coating on frame . Hard lesson learned figured I'd share this experience
The appraiser is partly right. But very little would it cause to devalue a car once you see that it is not hiding patch work beyond its original parts. Just need to look a little closer is all. Sounds to be like this guy was too lazy to give it a few more minutes of looking. It doesn't mean all cars are now devalued with undercoating's on them. And probably not even this one was substantially devalued enough to cause worry or loss. Don't believe anyone you listen to and for God sake don't post something just because now you believe what was being said! Truth is its all a matter of individuals who are buying or holding these investment vehicles. I'd rather mine be protected if I were driving it. If it is sitting in a climate controlled storage it wouldn't matter if it had undercoating or not. Thanks.
@@MrCbell57 Not sure how your comment makes much sense. There is nothing good about this rubber undercoating. It's essentially the illusion of protection so not sure how your comment " I'd rather mine be protected if I were driving it" makes any real sense. Also unless the person gives the appraiser permission to chip this crap off and or is willing to do it himself how can the appraiser truly know what's underneath? He's not being lazy, he's being a realist. How or why would anyone with any legitimacy put their name on something where they couldn't even truly see some of the most important parts of what they were supposed to be inspecting?
That crap was sprayed over rust.
It's a 2011 car that got it's first undercoat layer in the same year, no rust.
Chevrolet doesn't exactly manufacture shipwrecks.
Rusted after under the coating
@@poopipeboy3033 GM makes piles of poop
34boo no they actually come like that from the factory. It’s a terrible coating
Drew Jackson what ever you do don’t look under your dodge or f150. They are doing the same shit.
That is horrendous, and potentially deceitful. I'd be inclined to think the only reason they want you to re-apply every year is to ensure the damage remains hidden.
I believe it is because they make another sale every year. more money for them, thats why they are in business .
Probably the idea Originally had been to Seal any possible holes of the coating after thorought checktrough of them and proper cleaning of them etc... give it 50 years of cost saving and trying to be more efficient... and here we are
@TheOtherWhiteBread0 corrosion of metal requires oxygen, how do you prevent it? ,)
I've battled rust on old cars and saltwater boats and trailers.
The rust converter products that turn the metal black actually change the metal and lock out oxidation. If the rust is deep it will bubble up again. Chipping away the surface before treatment helps.
In a very good RUclips video there's a test and POR product won decisively.
I've just started that one a year ago and it is doing good. Forms a hard black paint able surface.
Farm lab is the site or something.
They mostly use a zinc phosphate reaction and will turn skin purple. Use gloves.
After several coats I use a marine grade zinc primer and marine paint for the sea and cheaper Rust-Oleum for the land.
Make sure you don't have slow electric leaks as that can increase rust tenfold.
Clean channels along trunk weatherstrip so water flows.
Same with drain holes.
Check it yearly because rust never sleeps.
I should have Ziebarted my ex-wifes truck. Hind sights always 20-20!
oh, that's funny
NICE!
Will keep in mind, a Ziebart gift certificate is a great gift for your enemies in the salt belt
#chessnotcheckers
Stuart, I should of just ziebarted my ex-wife.
Man this makes me glad to live in the south. Couldn’t imagine having to deal with stuff like that on a regular
Amen to that s*** there isn't a drop of rust on my 1997 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab she's exactly the way she rolled off the factory with over a million miles
If you keep up with getting the salt off you can mitigate a lot of the damage. You'll still rust out, but you can slow it down significantly by just cleaning it off regularly.
Rochester,Ny here...when i take trips south i see mid 90s cars even earlier years look brand fuckinnew and here i am in my car with rusted hood and back wheel well rust and shit like damn im jealous man!! One of the things making me consider moving somewhere south.
@@murphy874 totalitarian government didn't do it but the rust is chasing you out of NY? Yankees are a different breed good lawd.
@@PukeSandwich definitely said one of the things! Theres many things chasing me out of new york
When I bought a brand new 1982 AMC 4X4 Eagle sedan, the car had "factory" Ziebart on the frame and body. Ziebart was very popular at the time. Around 8 years later the front passenger carpet started to smell musty. I went under the car and found that the floor had rotted away.
George Travers that sucks. those cars were ahead of their time .. 4x4 high clearance Sedan basically
It was an AMC Concord body on top of a Jeep drive train. It had great ground clearance (7") and was great in the snow.
Home Depot had the same problem with their deck coatings. If you're going to try blocking water, you have to coat ALL sides. That frame had factory holes in it. I doubt it was coated inside there
All sides and in the absents of moisture. IF even the tiniest bit of rust has started, its useless. This is why body people cut so much back from the rusty spot. Almost like cancer, you have to cut away some of the good to make sure you get all the bad... leave a tiny bit, and it comes back with a vengeance 100x worse.
The best thing we have here for undercoating is underseal with added waxoyl, the waxoyl is a liquid type which actually removes moisture and stops rust spreading and the undercoat is great undercoating it actually works and I just spent a couple of days painting it on by hand so I didn’t paint fuel filters or anything stupid. Also I don’t know if this is an American thing but I’ve never seen a car with wiring underneath apart from abs it’s always run through the interior
I had my Jeep undercoated when I bought it, then found out what a mistake it was, a month or so later. Luckily it was only done one time, and I managed to save my truck through use of a lot of fluid film, pressure washing and many hours with a wire brush lol. My frame and suspension are luckily still in great shape. My wallet and pride, not as much.
so glad to read your reply - I made the Ziebart mistake - what a scam too! Hope I can rescue it with Krown or Fluid Film
And here I am, a car noob, thinking “Hrrm.. that stuff is probably a decent sound dampener.”
It’s a good wake up call, especially since I’m in the market for a used car right now. I’ll be sure to put a lot of research into any modifications.
Has nothing to do with the product and everything to do with the person who applied it. I live in finland and every single car is undercoated with rubberized undercoating with 0 issues.
@@NjoyMoney somehow I doubt you can speak for the condition of every car in Finland
@@Whillie_Whonka1 i never claimed i did, learn to comprehend what you read before trying to be a smartass
When I lived in Ontario, I painted the insides of the car doors with Vaseline. After 10 years of Canadian winters, I took a look inside again and not a spot of rust. Vaseline seeps into all the seams and keeps the water and salt out. Where it oozes out, it doesn't harm the paint and is easily wiped off.
@Ouchwitz Book Binding Emporium bet it was even worse when he said "its for my car"
Well Vaseline is a petroleum jelly so yeah it should work
BTW, don't buy the stuff that has baby powder in it or your car will smell like a freshly diapered baby.
@@johncoenraads9681 lmao
That might work up north in Canada but that jelly would run out of the car down south when it got hot.
Thanks for posting this. In Europe we tend to call this kind of stuff, that goes hard, ‘Shutz’ and the rust always rots steel underneath it. I spray a waxy stuff on all my trucks when new and it seals the paint for a good while. At around five years of age it benefits from a good clean and reapplication where obviously needed but otherwise a spray of clean engine oil does the job.
I spray the Fluid Film on my 2010 Tacoma here in Ma. There was a frame recall on the 2010 for rust. The dealer couldn't find a hole, so they wanted to coat it with their crap. I said no. My mechanic told me about Fluid Film. I bought a gallon, and the spray gun for under $100 online. It's one of the most satisfying feelings spraying it on. It's beautiful!
What about rustoleum undercoating; heard anything about it?
mark I’d have to research it. I found Fluid Film, so my research stops there. That is what I use because it gives me the results that I was looking for. You’ll see when you use it.
@@MacsWraps I was reading the bullet points for the rustoleum, which is also a spray like Fluid Film, and "rubberized " was one of the ingredients. Funny thing is there's no thickness to it at all. Idk if Fluid Film contains rubber as well
mark no rubber like properties. In the can it is like butterscotch pudding. It’s sprays on making it wet looking. That rubberized stuff is crap.
@@marco_75.7 I would assume its the same problem as this rubber stuff. If its not breathable, it will eventually have water creep and then your rust issue behind the layer of paint.
Krown is the way to go live in the rust belt and am driving an 03, spray a gallon of it on the underside and doors. Grease works good too on the frame, most of the frame is shiny metal like new no crusties. Bolts come off easy and its good on rubber.
Outstanding video Sir. People heed the warning. Never use any spray on undercoating. I use fluid film inside my rockers/doors/fenders. I use LPS 3 on frame/undercarriage/brake lines. My 2010 looks factory fresh living up in Vermont.
the total disregard for spraying serviceable components on the underside is absolutely criminal
Damn! I don't blame you for refusing to work on cars with this crap on it, but I'm glad you did this one on video. I've never trusted the thick and goopy sort of undercoating, but it's worse than I thought. I'm in a very salty area too, and get an oil spray every year.
In my Young And Foolish years, I worked at a couple of car dealers, prepping new cars to go out when sold. The sales staff always pushed their "rust proofing", which was a thick goopy crap like Ziebart. The first time I saw it, I figured that had to be trouble.
I thought you were kind of wimping out, complaning about working on a rusty vehicle until you showed all of the hose and electrical connectors. What a nightmare!
LOL, you mustn't have watched many videos. The amount of rust that rains out of those cars when he does any suspension related work is incredible.
I though he was pretty clear about the problem. Plus it adds to he cost having to work through the coating to get to the problems.
He is likely to get complaints that someone's buddy had the same problem on the same car and it cost less.
I did herculiner on the interior floors of my old jeep (same type of stuff). I did a lot of prep work but water still got between the costing and rusted out the floor boards. Oil base coatings are the way to go
I cant thank you enough for posting this video. My husband had our jeep wrangler scheduled for this. I cancelled it immediately!
Exactly what happened to my car! Used 3M, the RUSTROT started in the gas fuel pipe neck! Thanks for warning & saving a LOT of people from thousands of expense!
Great video! I have watched many of your videos, they are both informative and entertaining, one thing stands out (apart from your mechanical brilliance and amazing good looks!) is the complete abscense of curse words, it makes your videos so much more enjoyable! Thanks.
Obviously Eddie has a very limited knowledge of the English language! Oh so dumb. oh so tragically dumb be he!
Dang, owner of that truck is probably still making monthly payments on it.
ICU2 he'll probably still be paying it off when it's sitting in the salvage yard next year
😂
This is actually extremely common in the rust belt. It’s very sad. I live in Vermont, close to upstate ny. The rust is just as bad. Trucks these days don’t make it to see a decade before the rocker panels are rotted out and hanging down and the wheel wells are bubbling and perforated with rust. My 2013 Chevy frame looks like it’s been submerged in the ocean. Rust and flaking paint front to back on the frame. Body is okay though... for now. I suspect I’ll still be making payments on it when the body starts to rust out. And when it’s paid off I’ll be left with a pile of junk I can’t sell for a couple grand. I see trucks on a daily basis that are 2009 or 2010 model year that are so rusty they’ll see the crusher by this time next year. My 09 ford had about had it before I bought my Chevy. The cab corners were pretty bad and the rockers were totally gone. Next truck will be likely be some 90’s-2000’s cheap thing from down south. Way better of then spending another 20k on a half rotted truck.
I can't believe that 2013 car is rust. My friend has 1993 Acura, and he is living in Maryland. His car is fine. I think the dealership or manufacture did not put anti-rust or coat before selling cars.
He can stop paying and tell them to keep it lol 😂
THANK YOU for showing this. I can't believe how many people they get to fall for this.
I believe the problem is improper prepping before application. Most of these are probably just lifted and sprayed
I was impressed watching that box frame twist like paper when you pulled out that upper control arm. I'm not sure I'd consider that frame solid enough to hold onto the wheels.
l wilton I noticed that too.
l wilton oh man I saw that too. Super scary. I wouldn’t drive that
The frame is toast
Wow. I just went back and watched that again. I definitely would not put my family in that truck. I just replaced my upper control arms in my 97 GMC Sierra and I live in Pa and mine is no where close to this rusty. I have some rusty discoloration but no rot. Has to be a subpar material being used on later model vehicles. I would be furious if my fairly new Truck looked like this one does.
I thought that because it's late at night and I just got off a 12 hour shift my eyes were playing tricks on me when that control arm came out and the box frame moved, but apparently not! My 26 year old hoopdiemobile is in better shape than that janky crap!
Por 15 to me is the best rust protection. It's fluid going on and seals as hard as power coating. I rhinolined the bottom of my truck and it did the same thing as your video...rotted through. I thin applied POR 15 AND THAT Stuff is amazing. Don't get it on you cause it's like a tattoo. It won't come off
Good to hear brother. I just bought some for my lightly rusted underside. Excited to use it
I've professionally undersealed my car with Dinitrol, but it was descaled, degreased, steam cleaned and dried beforehand, so hope my underseal will actually do its job.
That's exactly what should be done if you're going to underseal a car. Otherwise it's likely to just oxidise under the coating anyway.
You should also check the coating annually for cracks in the coating as even small cracks can allow in moisture. It seems that oil based sprays are best if applied annually.
Yeah I have free annual inspections. Obviously there is always rust showing up on moving parts but it's treated and converted back into harmless iron and topped up.
Due to watching this video I have been Krowning my new 2023 Tacoma ever since day one before its first winter. Thank man.
He is correct-I switched to fluid film early on thankfully on my Cherokee, and it seems to be working pretty well.
Also: apply liberally on metal under battery tray to resist acid-induced corrosion
Fluid film is good stuff!
Ziebart employees disliked this video. (also, I was considering having this done. thanks for saving my car)
Been working on cars forever down south, customer came in from a road trip from the East coast. I’ve never seen such a rust bucket. I’ll never bitch about the heat down here again, all our cars are in pristine condition (regarding rust) and it’s just astounding to me.
It's all about the prep before application. We do undercoatings and offer a 5 and 10 year warranty for cars that are inspected annually. All surfaces must be completely cleaned, treated and completely dried before application. I've have a 1973 and a 1974 VW Thing that was treated several years ago and there is no sign of failure on either. Not one bubble. The moisture that was between the coating and the metal on this truck was there before the coating was applied.
No tar for me
I am so glad I seen this video! Thank you for helping me save my truck cause I was thinking on having it done theres no way in hell now!!!
At my shop we do krown. It's one of the more expensive options but for the love of the car gods, use any of these types, krown, fluid film, rust check, any of it will prolong your car up here where there is snow and salt and stuff 3 or 4 months of the year. Krown offers a fantastic warranty of you do it from new. If you use one of these products from new and do it yearly the car will last forever. Plus most of these are environmentally friendly products and won't harm your driveway or garage floor if they drip on it.
"environmentally friendly" good point, much better than the black solvent based black tar stuff.
I've seen Eric's & Ivan's 'Krown' videos & I'm not sold on the expertise of the 'Applicators' certainly not very thorough IMHO
Michael O I have not seen theirs but we had to send our guys on a 2 day course, each vehicle takes about an hour to properly do, it goes in every door and panel. It's good stuff, but if the person spraying is clueless, then you'll never get a good job.
I can imagine why he'd refuse to work on cars with that crap. What a mess.
Yeah cant even get sockets on bolts
Working on cars like this is an everyday occurrence in uk/ireland, which i was a mechanic in the US instead of here lol
@@donerae8682 BRAKE LINES
Wow, man. This is eye opening. I planned on under coating myself for this season coming up
Person: Can you save it? 😰
Mechanic: I’m sorry..... it won’t live 10 years
I mean... It could, but i would mean welding the frame
Only a mechanic and a doctor get asked that question. Lol
Thanks for the TRUTH!
Vehicle won't even outlast the loan.
One small open area with a rubberized undercoating will allow water and salt to enter and sit right in between the coating and metal. It would have to be flawless for it to work.
I am sure when ziebart sees this you will be taken off of their Christmas card list.
Bill Rae probably a channel strike. They will cry. Lol.
They should have to cover the cost of the damage
Guarantee, bahahahaaaa
DON,T CARE
This is an eye opening content. I am about to go for under coating b4 watching this, but now i will not waste my hard earned money for this thing. Thank you for this info.
I’ve always used boiled linseed oil annually on my ‘99 Jeep TJ with 300k miles. I live in an area where roads are salted. I’ve had amazing results with this simple product and there isn’t any serious rust on the body or frame and it’s cheap.
We used to spray diesel fuel on our old sprayer trucks. It was not a clean method and it collected dirt but when you washed it off the frames looked brand new paint and all. Lots of good methods out there for sure.
@@dieselman8v923 we used to spray diesel all over our race cars so the mud would just fall of mostly & when you 'hit' it with the Gerni it dropped right off!
What I recommend don’t put any of this coating crap on anything! I see this all the time with “waxoyl” over here. Makes them a nightmare to work on and like you say it just locks in moisture and rust.
People will spend ££££ “rust proofing my advice keep your money spend it on a hot pressure washer and clean it regularly! 4x4s that I see that have a tough life but are regularly washed are always 10 times better.
TDM 4x4 With my car i normally just jet wash underneath every other week in winter and i treated a few bad rust spots with the grinder and zinc based paint.
i just have some anti rust spray i put on, its greasy and oil-like. put it on before winter and it seems to repel stuff pretty well. just have to reapply lots.
Worked for a company that we did a lot of winter driving and in the bush/through the mud. We bought 3 trucks at the same time. Pushed the truck I was in up till 200,000 km, washed it upwards of once a day depending on conditions and how much we drove. The other two rarely got washed, had half the KM on it and the frames were rusted. Cleaning goes a long way, even if it's just a water rinse
Any undercoating needs to be breathable. Meaning that it will allow any moisture that gets in to get out. Oil based coatings are good, though a disaster to the environment, as are wax based coatings. I personally prefer the wax, as you can see through it (and therefore see potential problems) and they're thin enough that they won't plug drain holes, but they don't like really high temperatures, so if you steam clean the underside of your car, you'll need to recoat anywhere it melted off. Still, Volvo switched to the wax in 1992, and the later cars simply don't rust out unless you're really stupid.
As for that truck, the frames on GM trucks are made of weathering steel. They're SUPPOSED to develop a light coating of rust as the factory spray coat wears off. That light coating protects the rest of it- as long as it can breathe. Apply that crap to it, and all bets are off.
TDM 4x4 😀🍺
Ziebart dealer be like: you drove it in adverse conditions !
Yup. Adverse conditions like "outside of my garage." :-)
@@guardrailbiter
That curb warranty.
Once it's past the curb the warranty expires 😂
I'm so glad I watched this video. I just purchased a 2018 GMC from MI and I live in MN. I was going to have it undercoated in the next week. You just saved my you know what!!! Now I have to find your video on Fluid film.
Holy crap biscuits! What a mess. I never thought about it from your perspective, connectors, wires, and all. Thanks for the education Dr. O!
I once bought a car that had been rustproofed by the dealer. A few months later, while driving, I heard a sloshing sound. The weep holes in the door bottoms had been "sealed."
The doors were filling with water.
That happened to a friend's sister, back in the 70's. Her doors rusted clear thru about 3" above the door bottoms.
Do not buy vehicle modifications from the dealer. Engineering quality control ends at the factory.
@@Muftobration Also dealers are middlemen that mark up everything. Anything you buy from them, they are making profit on.
We used to pressure wash the undercarriage to clean off the dirt, let it dry, then spray them with chainsaw lubricant, which is a lot cheaper than Fluid Film. Worked pretty well from what I remember. I still have my 1984 Chevy, and it has no more rust than a 2006 GMC I bought used last year. The winner, though, is the 2007 Honda Pilot.
Thank you for the info. I have save a copy text for future reference.
I never use the undercoat, but have used the rubber spray on stone guard, but only in two places. First, on any "tuck under" at the bottom of the car where stones hit. Just keep an eye on it, being prepared to repair as nevessary. The other is a bit more unusual, but very effective on old cars. Using chalk dust i outline all the chrome trim, then carefully remove the trim. I mask off around the trim area, then sorsy on the rubber stone guard. Allow it to dry then prime and paint. Reinstall the trim, and nobody can tell. The rubber forms a barrier between car and trim as well as civering the sides of any holes for trim clips. The barrier works because it prevents a galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals. I've seen this last more than 20 years with zero rust under the trim.
I make my own undercoating. A mix of motor oil, automotive grease, and boiled linseed oil: mix to the consistency of maple syrup. Apply with a paint brush.
Are u bullshittin?
Sergio Gonzalez nope, it seems to work really well! It “breathes”, and it doesn’t wash off when you run over puddles. It’s really cheap too.
@@QuintTheSharker I've always been told after a oil change brush it on the frame and go for a drive more gravel roads the better. Havnt done it personally but seems to work.
CLASSICSHOELACES. You’re probably on to something. The used motor oil would look better since it’s darker than the new motor oil I used. I put it on the frame in the wheel well too. The factory GM coating doesn’t work that well 😕
@@QuintTheSharker from what I understand the gm undercoating is horrible. I've never had a gm but I've seen some pretty nasty frames
My stepfather paid to have that crap painted on his brand new truck in 1977. By the time that truck was ten years old, it was falling off the frame. Eventually there was almost nothing connecting the bed to the frame, and the floor pans no longer existed. You had to drive it with one foot on the transmission and one on the door frame.
As a kid in the 70s, I fully bought into the Zeibart thing. Thankfully was not even 10 years old. Just as my late father used to say about "magic" oil additives - if it was that good, they would add it from the factory. Thanks for this video
the factory doesn't want it to last or you wouldn't ever buy a new one
@@xfastxeddiex I think you missed my point. Zeibart was a terrible product. That thick coating was a bad idea as it could trap moisture in. Slick 50 sounded like a great idea in the 80s into the 90s. Until it came out that DuPont highly recommended to not use Teflon as a motor lubricant. If a magic oil supplement really did work, the factories would call for it.
@@xfastxeddiex if factories didn't want their vehicles to resist rust so you have to buy a new one, they wouldn't do electrocoat.
Cars do have rubberized undercoating from the factory tho.
Difference is when applied to brand new 100% rust free metal it works wonders. This product shouldn't be used unless after a repair or restoration where you have sandblasted or ground to clean metal.
It was sadly advertized and used by many people and companies to be used to prolong a car's life but quite obviously waxy coatings are better for that, and rubberized coatings are not appropriate for surfaces that could have rust already, because their whole job is to give a strong seal, which is a good thing when you have clean metal and not so much when you're trapping rust underneath.
Different products got different uses, doesn't mean one product is necessarily better than the other, but sadly companies badly advertize their stuff because it makes it sell more.
Thank you! Went to bank today and withdrew of $ 18,000 for a truck in Okeechobee, Fl. It is a 2010 Sierra truck with 65,000. Miles Beautiful truck fully loaded leather interior and ran vin number with my nephew who works at a Toyota dealership that matched the trucks description but after all this I test drove with the owner and was truly excited about the purchase.
Afterwards he lifted the hood and topside everything looked clean!
I decided to crawl underneath… bubbles of paint at the lower panel’s and everything had the thick rubber coating. He said he had it sprayed every other year. It was flaking off the entire framing, springs, and all components were exposed rust! I asked did he live near salt? He said no, but they did salt their roadways with sand mixed with salt.
I ask where he lived knowing his accent was French and he said Quebec, Canada.
Nope it’s not happening especially after watching your video, will inform him tomorrow it’s a no go.
I guess all should be wary of Canadian vehicles.
This makes me thankful of the south even more. I live in texas and my truck is 21 yrs old. I wouldn't trade it for a 2 yr old truck from new York. Tx ftw
Wow thank you for the video! I actually got a quote from Ziebart for a SUV i was about to buy. i won't be going there for undercoating
I've had pretty good luck Fluid Film, applied to a cleaned and dried frame. We have rust issues in coastal Alaska, but nothing near as bad as the Northeast or Midwest. Every time I go out there, it makes me want to take pictures of vehicles and start a photo series called, "Where they rust" to document where and how vehicles rot out. It would be an interesting photo collage for those of us not living in the salt belt.
I'm not sure what sort of factory coating Volvo uses, but those always stand out to me as cars that are extremely corrosion proof. My '96 Volvo 850 Turbo still looks factory new underneath, somehow!
In Volvo's the body gets a zink bath before paint and they rustproof it also inside then frame. So it doesn't rust from inside out.
Fluid Film, I'll check that out. I'm moving from florida to maryland this winter, I'm worried what the salt is going to do to my 1 year old truck.
@@zorro1rr Maryland barely gets snow. What salt are you referring to?
I have 2 1998 s70's, and neither of them have rusted out underneath. Both exhausts rusted out right behind the cat though lol
Cannabis Country lol some parts just got snow before thanksgiving, and they were already spreading the brine solution on the roads. Not as bad as NY or New England for rust, but still not Georgia.
I always figured undercoatings were bad when they straight up said so in that episode of archer, but now it's double confirmed
Haha me too, that’s what Ron said right?
Fluid film is great no problems at all
4 or 5 years ago, I worked for a tree service. One day they asked me to get in their 1987 Silverado and head to a job site. When I looked at it I was amazed at how nice it was. I asked if they got it out of state and they said no, it was a local truck. I asked if they only drive it in summer, they said no they drive it all winter. At this point I’m flabbergasted and asked them what kind of sorcery is this? Oil. They asked me to go look under my rusty Jeep, and when I did, I saw that the only spot without rust on it, literally gorgeous paint still there, was where it was leaking oil (good ol’ Jeep 4.0 inline 6 tractor engine). Made a believer out of me.
All those coatings out there? Junk. At best they last a short while, at worst (the subject of this video) they speed up rot. JUST OIL YOUR SH**!
Fluid Film would probably be a better solution than oil. Easier to apply (comes in spray cans or you can an air compressor), non-flammable, and may stay on a little better than motor oil, and better for the environment than leaving oil everywhere you go.
@@tirdkat6104 oil comes from the ground genius
@@illhaveanother4365 So does Radon, Plutonium, Arsenic, virtually every kind of deadly mushroom, and so do centipedes, round worms, and cyanobacteria.
And so does water. Since oil coming from the ground means it's perfectly harmless, how about this: go pour a quart of oil in a small pot, cook yourself a pack of Top Ramen in it, and eat it. Let's see how that works out for you, genius.
I'd be amazed if you managed to get the electric stove turned on without blowing your house up somehow.
UPDATE: I sent the old WJ off to a farm, dude still drives it out there so I’m happy she’s still alive. I scored a rust-free Cherokee from Florida and just paid $130 to have it oil sprayed at some place locally. Wish me luck y’all.
@@illhaveanother4365why so mad ? Fluid film isn't oil
I can imagine this product being applied to a rusted out vehicle in hopes of deceiving the potential buyer.
That is what the car dealers in our area do. See it everyday here.
@@SouthMainAuto that's just sad. Glad you are educating the community. A 40k truck down the drain in 10 years is a hard pill to swallow
Was looking for a car once. I reached down and felt the nice smooth undersea. Then I tripped and grabbed the inner sill as I fell. The whole sill disintegrated destroying the outer sill as well. I was left trying to kick it back while making an excuse as to why I did not want a test drive. All with a brand new MOT.
@@billybob-hv5hl 2011 truck built late in the model year might barely be 7 years old at this point....that would be an even harder pill to swallow.
Billy Bob, I would have had the RA if they did that to my new truck. Just as you finish paying for it, time for a new truck.
That's insane. Lots of ziebart in Minnesota and other snow states. Unbelievable people pay hundreds to have this done and it's killing your car. Thank you for showing this.
I love living in the rust belt where I can wrestle and break off seized bolts, poke holes through my rocker panels and cab corners, etc. Good times!
Hell yes, party down.
Is that still a problem with the newer vehicles?
yes my uncle uses his floor as a speed gauge
raccoon681 😂😂
@@BennyBaller20 i was not joking about that there is a hole in it
Thank you for this video. My daughter bought a 78 F150 from the South and it’s rust free. However, we live in Connecticut and she wanted to get it undercoated. Thank you for saving her truck!
Sounds like a classic!
What you are describing in this video is the result of a failed application of rubberized undercoating. I have been installing and correcting corrosion protection jobs for about 20 years. If the vehicle is already starting to experience corrosion (Even a couple days of salty driving will do it) and these products are applied without proper prep, it will result in the condition you cover in this video. These products need to be applied to clean metal on all the easily accesible surfaces on the undercarriage. Then, all the cavities such as the rockers, frame, bedsides, subframes, door skins etc need to be treated with a more fluid protection product such as fluid film or other similar products. During a professional installation, all connections that could cause mechanics problems like you describe SHOULD BE taped off. I've been in probably 100+ shops and maybe 5 of them installed these products correctly. It's a major scam and people are being ripped off because a barrel of product is at most $1000. One barrel will do 30-50 vehicles. Customers are paying almost the cost of the whole barrel for one application. These poor no prep jobs that result in horrible rust only take 30 minutes to do. Properly prepped and applied you're looking at about half a day on a 3/4 ton truck. So installers are not taking the time and ripping everyone off for quick profits, taking advantage of customers lack of knowledge. Properly applied, rubberized undercoating offers amazing benefits. But the only way to keep your vehicle completely free of terrible corrosion is to not drive in salt. Buy an older beater for the winter, you are actually saving your money on depreciation of newer vehicles if you do decide to go that route.
i agree. More prep . Defiantly was dirty or had moisture/salt on it before spraying.m i have a 2015 chevy and the stock frame coating is like tar. I heard u dont want to spray fluid film on it . they say it will eat it away?
I was thinking of doing this to my 2014 car, which has some rust spots on the control arms, but not anymore. Is there anything that can be done? Applied on top of it that would not cause this disaster? What about using a rust converter, encapsulator, they usually come in black
He said moisture gets stuck between the frame and the coating so sounds like it's not dry or eve. Small amounts cause massive rust out
without any kind of protection, the car will last at least 20 years. How do you describe that.. If this ruins in a quicker time
I don't believe that there is a "proper" way to install a coating. It's the edges of ANY coating that will allow seepage of salt and water between it and the frame. Even if the coating is bonded to the metal, the edges will still allow seepage. Then, it's bye-bye frame.
If I lived in the NE, I would consider a physical barrier between the frame and road, like they put underneath RVs. A plastic barrier that would prevent the salt from getting int here to begin with. Then, after the winter, remove it, wash the frame with fresh water until the next winter.
When i was growing up, my uncle would do an oil change on his car every summer. He would then paint the old oil over the underside of his car. Never had any welding! 😎
Sadly old engine oil is only minimally better than leaving it unprotected. Way too thin to not get washed off (and that's bad not only for the car) and it's building up a dirt layer .. and dirt loves to hold moisture advocating rust.
I can recommend project farm on RUclips. He is very thorough with his tests.
@@SpaceShipDeathstar the only time the used engine oil trick works if you have a persistent oil leak that is constantly spraying hot oil around .won't protect the rear chassis mind only halfway down .I guess if he changed his oil three times a year it would have some benefit.they say old gearbox is good as its more clingy but your vehicle safety cert inspector will hate you .
@@SpaceShipDeathstar the only time the used engine oil trick works if you have a persistent oil leak that is constantly spraying hot oil around .won't protect the rear chassis mind only halfway down .I guess if he changed his oil three times a year it would have some benefit.they say old gearbox is good as its more clingy but your vehicle safety cert inspector will hate you .
When I was an apprentice back in the day I was working on an 1987 vw Jetta it was in 91 or 92 it was the early 90's I had put a master cylinder in it and had got into the car to move it. I fell through the floor seat and all. The owner 80lbs female wasn't heavy enough. Me at 230lbs wasn't good. Funny thing.... She was so proud about how she took care of it. The complete floor was like foil supper thin and full of pin holes. It was a shame the rest of the car was mint. If I remember correctly I think it was tar or even roofing tar. Can't remember just remember driving that car to the wreckers watching the ground below me while sitting on boards spread across..... Good times.
Did they ever try to pin the blame on you?
@@chrishernandez2490 well everyone trys to blame someone else. At the time the client was a little on the protective anal side. When I got in it I hardly moved and fell through. Only reason I got in it was because I was closest to it and the owner was nervous about reversing off of the rack. But in the end no I was not blamed for it or asked to pay for it. You can't blame people when somthing catastrophic happens. It is just human nature.
Lol that's some funny Sh**
Sorry, calling bullshit on the 'I literally fell through the floor comment' unless the car had been parked under salt water for at least 5 years.
@ well I guess you were there and were the one who went through the thing. Early vw floor pans were just that a pan and they are sort of know for rotting or at least they are up here in Ontario. I guess it is the price I paid for being a hevier kid. The garbage they put on our roads kill everything.
Eric you are as professional as they come . Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise in a very humble way. keep the videos coming please .
it didn't destroy his truck! Ziebart has been in business for 65 years. if they were destroying trucks they would have died a long time age.
You should update us on this truck. @ 5:30, when you pulled out that upper control arm, the right mount point of that bracket actually flexed or moved a bit like it could just snap off. To me, that thing is not even safe to be on the road anymore at that point. That's horrible...
Yep after this winter it is heading to the crusher....
it has a nice 5.3 or 6.0 for a project fbody car though. no sense crushing it without removing the drive-train. the 5.3 is one hell of an engine.
@@ad356 could be a v6.
He can sell it to carmax will buy anything i guess.
only 55k miles and a 2011. Such a shame that truck can easily last few more hundred of dollars of miles.
I would be PISSED if this happened to my vehicle.
I'm in Michigan and have a 2006 subaru with no coating. I've got some rust but nowhere near what this truck has.
Losing the truck so quickly to rust...shocking
OMG thanks a lot for this info! I almost sprayed the bottom of my car with that stuff. I bought it from Walmart and I'm returning it now!
Id say lawsuit for ziebart to fix, the one 35 miles away closed, wonder why, smh
They closed the one near me as well
in Germany we have plenty of salt in winter times on the road. Black "Bitumen" undercoating was popular for many years with same results as you show. I preferred the wax type undercoating therefor. Well refurbishing this frame will cost a fortune I guess, maybe with an ultra strong water sandblasting it could be achieved ...
Yeah, sounds like you're describing products like Wool Wax or Fluid Film (Not sure if those brands are sold there). That's the only way to do it. Spray it on every fall before winter if you're in a high-salt area, or every 2 years if it doesn't see as much salt.