Really appreciate all the content you put out about the DPS6 transmission. Bought a 12 focus for $1500 with the P07A3 code. I was not swayed from buying the car due to all the info you make so readily available.
Thank you, Ben, for all your videos. I had a 2015 Focus with P087A and would not shift. Replaced B actuator, no change. Swapped the A and B actuators, no change. Changed TCM, that did the trick! Thank you again for the videos, gave me the knowledge (and courage) to fix it.
got over 209k on what i think are original clutches, there are no records of them ever being replaced and the tcm is still original. does the tcm tomfoolery every now and then but otherwise as long as i drive it properly it's great. cool to see you putting out information on these cars/transmissions in the way you have.
I have 145.000km on my 2013 fiesta 1.0 ecoboost with the dps6 transmission it still shifts smooth but i do have a grinding sound i think coming from the clutches but no slipping i guess a baring is slightly busted
I really appreciate the videos you make man. I have a 2014 focus at the moment and I have to change the clutch forks and possibly the tcm, but i’m glad to hear if I learn the transmission it can be reliable. Thanks again man 👍
I just got a 2018 and I have been learning how to drive it. I can tell when its getting damaged. It's at low speed like when the person in front of me is accelerating real slow and I have to let off or break and then accelerate again. Or if I slow down for a turn and then accelerate when in the turn. Something like that.
Thanks to you I fixed my 2012 ford focus and it's been hella reliable for the past 10 months. I've put about 10,000 miles on it in that time and only felt the occasional shudders. Like you said, it goes away if you give it some beans. I only replaced my forks, reused the clutch with the clutch locking/unlocking tool, and fixed my rear main seal. I think that's a common reason for them to go bad. You may want to post a little video talking about that :) Now I can drive to my college and back without any issues. My college is in the neighboring state and I have to make that trip every other day practically. I have confidence that even if it breaks down again, I can fix it and keep moving forward.
You should talk about how critical it is to have a strong battery on these. Since low voltage triggers the TCM to freak out and start doing shift sequences that end up breaking off the shift drum stops on the bell housing. Its far common because some focuses sit due to a different transmission issue, and as the battery gets drained another problem rises withe the bell housing drum stop.
Ooh wow, You know I was reading that these Focus' have really bad Contact points, someting im going to check as soon as I pick up my 15' Focus this friday... Dealer just put new battery in too. Thanks for making this point! Love the FORD Community!
I have a 2014 Focus with 242,000 miles on it. I've always had a jerky transmission since i got it with 40k miles on it. About a year and a half ago I had problems with my clutch actuator B. It had visible damage to it and I replaced it. I recently had a P090C Code (Clutch 'B' Actuator Control Circuit Low has been detected.) I bought another new clutch actuator, and about a week ago I replaced it again but this time it didn't work. I took it back out and I also removed clutch actuator A. I sprayed compressed air, WD 40 & Carburetor Cleaner in both actuator ports. I put the old new actuator in A and the new Actuator in B. I hooked the battery back up and did the transmission reset inside the car. It's the one where you turn the key on and put it in N for 15 sec. Turn key off, turn key on and put it in park...(check focus trans. reset on RUclips) So far my transmission shifts super smooth. My gas mileage meter on the dashboard used to say 34 mpg but now it says 42mpg. I'm going to do the actual math at next fill up to see how true this is. If I have future problem then I'll probably try the drill a hole in the bottom of the transmission method to try to remove more dust and debris. Thanks for your videos!
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Okay, here's another interesting side effect of what been going on with my car lately. Before I received the aforementioned code I found a place that had E85. I've never used E85 because it wasn't available. I ran about 3 tanks of E85 through it but the price per gallon vs mpg to regular gas didn't seem worth it. I got the code on the last tank of E85 and then I worked on the transmission as I explained above. Before I switched to E85 and was on regular gas I averaged about 33ish mpg total (mostly long distance) but after I did all that stuff and switched back to regular gas I now get 39.9 mpg. The dash said 39.7 but when I divided the miles driven by gallons added I got 39.9. I'm going to continue monitoring the mpg. Let's face it, the car has 244k miles on it so it's been great for me so far. I plan on changing the transmission gear oil/fluid this weekend. I'm going to try and make a short RUclips video for you to check out. I really appreciate all your content. I'm not a mechanic but I enjoy working on cars and I'm not that scared to ruin this cars transmission since I already hot my money's worth on it.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I know that you're probably busy but here's a little video on my car. ruclips.net/video/eBkyPd36Ihg/видео.htmlsi=H__zPrwmUH5aMJ-A
I've got 85k miles on my 2014 SE 5MT. Its all stock, and all the replacement parts are FoMoCo/Motorcraft...motor mount, purge valve, plugs, rotors, pads. It drives like its brand new.
I bought a 1995 Escort new, and the original automatic transmission lasted 265K miles, which took me 25 years. I'd be driving one of those newer Focus if it has that same transmission.
I replaced the clutch and forks/ seals OEM at the ford dealer on my 15 due to it skipping gears. That problem has been resolved but after a few thousand miles on the parts i get a slight shudder. Is that considered fine with a new clutch? It only has 5 thousand miles on it. The TCM and software from my knowledge are original.
A slight shudders typical, you can drive it hard once in a while to try and help. If it gets worse before 1 year / 12k miles after the repair, you can have it replaced under service part warranty
Just had something interesting happen after all these 80k miles for me. Was going up rather steep hill and it was stop go traffic. Smelled like burning brakes and didnt think much, thinking it was others coming down, then after a minute i got the dreaded transmission overheating message. No judder no hesitating, really weird as the last time i got that message was accompanied by lots of juddering. U-turned and went to safe spot to cool the clutches down. Really weird for winter (albeit CA winter which was like 70 degrees) as i visited the same spot last year during summer and it was ok.
Sorry to hear. Might be time for it's (first?) clutch and fork replacement. I've got videos on transmission removal in the driveway, clutch and fork replacement without special tools, reinstallation tips, and adaptive learn with forscan.
Yup maybe, so far its had its TCM replacement only back under the original 10 year warranty. Definitely have to look at the actuators and forks. Appreciate the videos and happy thanksgiving.@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
the only issue I had now in my transmission is when driving it in heavy traffic for 1 hour, the clutch starting to act weird, when starting from stop to first gear there are times that its like the clutch lose pressure suddenly with a 1 tick metal noise then re-engaging again, for me to avoid that during heavy traffic is I always use Sport mode and manually shift the gear, no warning lights or codes
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles will try to take a video of it, although i'm afraid I might break something if I let that happen again or it will get me stranded,
I have seen several Focus for sale with people saying they get a message that the transmission is overheating. "Transmission Hot. Wait 5 Minutes" and then it goes into "Limp mode". What would cause this?
Is it normal to get some RPM fluctuation on these when going over terrain, say 150rpm going up a hill on cruise control? After putting in a new clutch, i noticed this on a test drive, but i don't know if it is normal or not. Tach is at 1850 on the flats but will climb to as much at 2000 when going over hills
Hi Ben! 1st off, THANK YOU for spreading your knowledge! I just bought a 2015 Focus Flex Fuel and was wondering, Can I source ANY (newer model) TCM from a 2017/2018 Focus and just swap that INTO my 2015 Focus without having to do any special calibrations or anything ie. Would it be plug and play to avoid any potential future failures or should I wait and see if it fails as I called FORD and they verified that my VIN has NOT been taking in to a dealer for TCM or Fork Shuddering for the recalls... The private car dealer I bought it from showed me paperwork that the clutch was just changed and TCM re-programmed (after watching you videos, I would assume he meant the adaptive learning procedure?). I own a Fiesta ST and have FORScan on my Laptop. Ive been watching ALL of your videos to gain as much knowledge as possible about the 3rd gen Focus'! I owned 2 - 2nd Gen Focus and THEY WERE FANTASTIC which led me to buying the Fiesta ST which has been an AMAZING and reliable car to own! Thanks in advance Ben! Joshua from San Diego
You're welcome! Glad to help. You'll want to program the tcm when you put one in from a different year model. 17 and 18 have some calibration differences from 12 to 14. It's easy though. Download the data with forscan from the old module and upload it to the new one when it's installed. When that dealer said they did the clutch and programmed the tcm, that means they updated it. If you want to DM me your vin on discord or fb I'll check if the tcms been replaced before
Hey ben, at 2:02 you were talking about the wiring of the speed sensors chafing, is that the wiring of the sensor itself, so it would be solved by replacing the sensor, or you mean the harness connecting to that sensor’s connector from the car side? The speedometer stopped working in my car although the odometer and trip meter are working I had an ABS code for the control module for several years but I didn’t replace it as it’s too expensive so I don’t know if it’s related, right now it’s U0415 but I’m not sure it’s the same one from several years ago There are several new codes for the speed: U2005, P1934, P2546, U0122 I took it to a mechanic and he suggested replacing the three sensors in the transmission While researching online the VSS seems to be the cause I called another mechanic and he said it could be caused by the ABS or the three sensors I’d appreciate your thoughts on this
Hi, I think that replacing the OSS (output shaft speed sensor) would fix your VSS fault. Yes, the wiring on the connectors for the sensors (on the harness itself)
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks, I will order it and try to replace it, how do I distinguish it from the other sensors? And can I access it from above the engine bay?
@@dominozonda You'll have to go under. It's next to the RH axle where it goes into the transmission. It's covered with a silver wrap that you slide off
I have a 2014 focus titanium, i changed the fluid, tcm and actuators in August because it was not shifting properly. Starting having shifting problems again. U think the actuators are bad again? Getting the shift fork A codes and all that again. I bought the ebay actuators so they probably went bad fast.
Are you getting P283(1,2,etc) codes? If so, it's probably a bad tcm, and they're free until 2025. The shift fork actuators are built into the tcm. The clutch fork actuators are bolted on the transmission. Hope this helps!
Ben I have almost 80k on my '17 Focus all original trans equipment far as I know. I dont have issues with ahifting or severe shudders. The main thing I notice is my car feels like it's driving through molasses and has to be coaxed to rev in the first few gears after a lot of driving. Do you think that is trans related? 🤔🙏🏻
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Howdie no codes or obvious issues just goes from feeling very spunky in the morning to very sluggish after the car is warmed up all the way. Feels spunky again once the car has completely cooled off. Almost like driving in eco vs sport. I don't have anything to really record sadly lol 😆
@@randalcalvert270 If you can reset KAM with forscan, you can try again - if it drives normally for a while, it may be a biased upstream o2 sensor. I'd also put new spark plugs and a new purge valve in. And air filter, clean MAF
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Good ideas! It has a new air filter & purge valve, but I will probably make new spark plugs and cleaning the MAF my next project. Don't believe they have ever been touched. Thank you 😊
Im taking my 2013 Focus to the closest dealer hoping to get the TCM done in the morning. 98k, just replaced both actuators with OEM,but kicked out the same code. How expensive is it to have the clutch and forks etc at the shop? I don't have much time to dive into the r&r,wish I did, but I don't.
Just finished installing a new clutch and forks in my 2014 focus, I was curious about which transmission fluid I should be getting. Which would you recommend since I know it’s not going to be normal automatic transmission fluid.
You can use the factory Motorcraft xt11qdc fluid if you'd like. Other options include amsoil dct fluid, redline mtl 75w80 gl4, royal purple 75w80 gl4. Good luck 👍
Hey Ben, I replaced the clutch forks and actuators on my niece's 2013 for focus (thanks to the helpful videos you put out) It drove fine for a few months. THen it started losing R because Clutch B stuck open. I would just pull actuator B off and put it back on and it would work again. This worked for a while. It would stay drivable for weeks, then it went down to every day, and now it doesn't go into R at all no matter what. Any suggestions on what might be the issue. I'm hoping I don't have to drop the trans again. (I strongly recommend to anyone with a Ford to subscribe to Bens channel if you having issues)
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the super fast reply. Would it matter if I have swapped them to see if the code changed to the A side? Because I have done that and it always triggers B side clutch stuck. The actuators ordered were cheap actuators though. Think my sister got 2 china made for 85 dollars.
1st, Great videos and good audio quality. 2nd Used your link to buy the clutch off Amazon and C. Excellent explanations. My 16 Focus SE HB clutch fork finally popped at 148k. Any thoughts on trans oil? Factory or aftermarket? Thanks again 😊
I still own, and love this car. However I absolutely hate ford and can no longer support this car. I had a 2012 Ford Focus which should have been covered under the 12M02 (I believe?) warranty coverage to get a new TCM Module. That 12M02 recall warranty is a 10 year warranty. They were on backorder due to covid and didn't have the part in NYC until 2023. They couldn't grant me an extension on the warranty - ford basically lemon'd my car. Those ECOBoost engines are great, and the feel of the car was amazing, but a warning to folks who have a 2023 - don't put off the repair! 2023 is ending soon!
Hi - is it possible/not a big deal to take out the dps6 and put in the manual? ( i''ve got a 14 fiesta that shudders second, on hills with weight in the car ---- thanks a lot, and thanks for your vids.
@questionreality6003 yup! Best bet is to find a crashed 5 speed fiesta and swap parts over. Transmission, flywheel, clutch, pedals, brake master reservoir, shifter, cables, harness
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching!
Dual Clutch OEM Clutch & Fork Kit: amzn.to/47GMeIl
OBD Link EX (For Forscan): amzn.to/3HsvidV
Really appreciate all the content you put out about the DPS6 transmission. Bought a 12 focus for $1500 with the P07A3 code. I was not swayed from buying the car due to all the info you make so readily available.
I'm happy that the videos have helped you! Thanks for watching
Thank you, Ben, for all your videos. I had a 2015 Focus with P087A and would not shift. Replaced B actuator, no change. Swapped the A and B actuators, no change. Changed TCM, that did the trick! Thank you again for the videos, gave me the knowledge (and courage) to fix it.
got over 209k on what i think are original clutches, there are no records of them ever being replaced and the tcm is still original. does the tcm tomfoolery every now and then but otherwise as long as i drive it properly it's great. cool to see you putting out information on these cars/transmissions in the way you have.
Happy to help and that's awesome you've gotten that much out of original parts!
I have 145.000km on my 2013 fiesta 1.0 ecoboost with the dps6 transmission it still shifts smooth but i do have a grinding sound i think coming from the clutches but no slipping i guess a baring is slightly busted
I really appreciate the videos you make man. I have a 2014 focus at the moment and I have to change the clutch forks and possibly the tcm, but i’m glad to hear if I learn the transmission it can be reliable. Thanks again man 👍
I just got a 2018 and I have been learning how to drive it. I can tell when its getting damaged. It's at low speed like when the person in front of me is accelerating real slow and I have to let off or break and then accelerate again. Or if I slow down for a turn and then accelerate when in the turn. Something like that.
You're very welcome! I'm glad the videos have helped!
Just got my 2013 focus back from the ford dealership. They replaced the TCM for me under the extended warranty. Thank you so much for your videos!
Nice man!
Thanks to you I fixed my 2012 ford focus and it's been hella reliable for the past 10 months. I've put about 10,000 miles on it in that time and only felt the occasional shudders. Like you said, it goes away if you give it some beans. I only replaced my forks, reused the clutch with the clutch locking/unlocking tool, and fixed my rear main seal. I think that's a common reason for them to go bad. You may want to post a little video talking about that :)
Now I can drive to my college and back without any issues. My college is in the neighboring state and I have to make that trip every other day practically. I have confidence that even if it breaks down again, I can fix it and keep moving forward.
Awesome, glad to hear! Happy driving
You should talk about how critical it is to have a strong battery on these. Since low voltage triggers the TCM to freak out and start doing shift sequences that end up breaking off the shift drum stops on the bell housing. Its far common because some focuses sit due to a different transmission issue, and as the battery gets drained another problem rises withe the bell housing drum stop.
I've heard of that theory about the drum stops. I'll do a video recommending unplugging the battery if it's going to sit for more than a couple weeks
Ooh wow, You know I was reading that these Focus' have really bad Contact points, someting im going to check as soon as I pick up my 15' Focus this friday... Dealer just put new battery in too. Thanks for making this point! Love the FORD Community!
I have a 2014 Focus with 242,000 miles on it. I've always had a jerky transmission since i got it with 40k miles on it. About a year and a half ago I had problems with my clutch actuator B. It had visible damage to it and I replaced it. I recently had a P090C Code (Clutch 'B' Actuator Control Circuit Low has been detected.) I bought another new clutch actuator, and about a week ago I replaced it again but this time it didn't work. I took it back out and I also removed clutch actuator A. I sprayed compressed air, WD 40 & Carburetor Cleaner in both actuator ports. I put the old new actuator in A and the new Actuator in B. I hooked the battery back up and did the transmission reset inside the car. It's the one where you turn the key on and put it in N for 15 sec. Turn key off, turn key on and put it in park...(check focus trans. reset on RUclips) So far my transmission shifts super smooth. My gas mileage meter on the dashboard used to say 34 mpg but now it says 42mpg. I'm going to do the actual math at next fill up to see how true this is. If I have future problem then I'll probably try the drill a hole in the bottom of the transmission method to try to remove more dust and debris. Thanks for your videos!
Hi.. when your P090C comes back, thats a TCM issue and they're free at the dealer until 2025 in the event of failure like yours.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles sounds good. We'll see how long it takes to act up again.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Okay, here's another interesting side effect of what been going on with my car lately. Before I received the aforementioned code I found a place that had E85. I've never used E85 because it wasn't available. I ran about 3 tanks of E85 through it but the price per gallon vs mpg to regular gas didn't seem worth it. I got the code on the last tank of E85 and then I worked on the transmission as I explained above. Before I switched to E85 and was on regular gas I averaged about 33ish mpg total (mostly long distance) but after I did all that stuff and switched back to regular gas I now get 39.9 mpg. The dash said 39.7 but when I divided the miles driven by gallons added I got 39.9. I'm going to continue monitoring the mpg. Let's face it, the car has 244k miles on it so it's been great for me so far. I plan on changing the transmission gear oil/fluid this weekend. I'm going to try and make a short RUclips video for you to check out. I really appreciate all your content. I'm not a mechanic but I enjoy working on cars and I'm not that scared to ruin this cars transmission since I already hot my money's worth on it.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I know that you're probably busy but here's a little video on my car. ruclips.net/video/eBkyPd36Ihg/видео.htmlsi=H__zPrwmUH5aMJ-A
Do your car not have reverse previously until fixing that
I've got 85k miles on my 2014 SE 5MT. Its all stock, and all the replacement parts are FoMoCo/Motorcraft...motor mount, purge valve, plugs, rotors, pads. It drives like its brand new.
@@72twist I'm convinced the focus 5MT 2.0 is one of, if not the most reliable car on the planet
I bought a 1995 Escort new, and the original automatic transmission lasted 265K miles, which took me 25 years. I'd be driving one of those newer Focus if it has that same transmission.
Thank you
I replaced the clutch and forks/ seals OEM at the ford dealer on my 15 due to it skipping gears. That problem has been resolved but after a few thousand miles on the parts i get a slight shudder. Is that considered fine with a new clutch? It only has 5 thousand miles on it. The TCM and software from my knowledge are original.
A slight shudders typical, you can drive it hard once in a while to try and help. If it gets worse before 1 year / 12k miles after the repair, you can have it replaced under service part warranty
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles even after i replaced it myself? I bought the parts directly from a ford dealership
Just had something interesting happen after all these 80k miles for me. Was going up rather steep hill and it was stop go traffic. Smelled like burning brakes and didnt think much, thinking it was others coming down, then after a minute i got the dreaded transmission overheating message. No judder no hesitating, really weird as the last time i got that message was accompanied by lots of juddering. U-turned and went to safe spot to cool the clutches down. Really weird for winter (albeit CA winter which was like 70 degrees) as i visited the same spot last year during summer and it was ok.
Sorry to hear. Might be time for it's (first?) clutch and fork replacement. I've got videos on transmission removal in the driveway, clutch and fork replacement without special tools, reinstallation tips, and adaptive learn with forscan.
Yup maybe, so far its had its TCM replacement only back under the original 10 year warranty. Definitely have to look at the actuators and forks. Appreciate the videos and happy thanksgiving.@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
the only issue I had now in my transmission is when driving it in heavy traffic for 1 hour, the clutch starting to act weird, when starting from stop to first gear there are times that its like the clutch lose pressure suddenly with a 1 tick metal noise then re-engaging again, for me to avoid that during heavy traffic is I always use Sport mode and manually shift the gear, no warning lights or codes
That could be a synchronizer issue. Have you posted a video clip of that on my facebook group?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles will try to take a video of it, although i'm afraid I might break something if I let that happen again or it will get me stranded,
Thanks for minimizing the door chime. I agree with what you've said about the focus being a good car.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Glad to have a 2017 1.6 nat Fiesta, with a DPS6. It's what I want to drive. It's fun. I'm learning how to make mine a lot more fun, too.... 😉
I have seen several Focus for sale with people saying they get a message that the transmission is overheating. "Transmission Hot. Wait 5 Minutes" and then it goes into "Limp mode". What would cause this?
Most of the time that's a seizing clutch fork and burnt clutch. In rare cases it can just be a tcm or actuator motor
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Cool, Thanks! Have a happy Thanksgiving
What is the up date tcm
Is it normal to get some RPM fluctuation on these when going over terrain, say 150rpm going up a hill on cruise control? After putting in a new clutch, i noticed this on a test drive, but i don't know if it is normal or not. Tach is at 1850 on the flats but will climb to as much at 2000 when going over hills
@fixxerautomotive4917 some is normal. If it gets worse, install 2 new oem clutch actuators
Hi Ben! 1st off, THANK YOU for spreading your knowledge! I just bought a 2015 Focus Flex Fuel and was wondering, Can I source ANY (newer model) TCM from a 2017/2018 Focus and just swap that INTO my 2015 Focus without having to do any special calibrations or anything ie. Would it be plug and play to avoid any potential future failures or should I wait and see if it fails as I called FORD and they verified that my VIN has NOT been taking in to a dealer for TCM or Fork Shuddering for the recalls... The private car dealer I bought it from showed me paperwork that the clutch was just changed and TCM re-programmed (after watching you videos, I would assume he meant the adaptive learning procedure?). I own a Fiesta ST and have FORScan on my Laptop. Ive been watching ALL of your videos to gain as much knowledge as possible about the 3rd gen Focus'! I owned 2 - 2nd Gen Focus and THEY WERE FANTASTIC which led me to buying the Fiesta ST which has been an AMAZING and reliable car to own! Thanks in advance Ben! Joshua from San Diego
You're welcome! Glad to help. You'll want to program the tcm when you put one in from a different year model. 17 and 18 have some calibration differences from 12 to 14. It's easy though. Download the data with forscan from the old module and upload it to the new one when it's installed. When that dealer said they did the clutch and programmed the tcm, that means they updated it. If you want to DM me your vin on discord or fb I'll check if the tcms been replaced before
Hey ben, at 2:02 you were talking about the wiring of the speed sensors chafing, is that the wiring of the sensor itself, so it would be solved by replacing the sensor, or you mean the harness connecting to that sensor’s connector from the car side?
The speedometer stopped working in my car although the odometer and trip meter are working
I had an ABS code for the control module for several years but I didn’t replace it as it’s too expensive so I don’t know if it’s related, right now it’s U0415 but I’m not sure it’s the same one from several years ago
There are several new codes for the speed: U2005, P1934, P2546, U0122
I took it to a mechanic and he suggested replacing the three sensors in the transmission
While researching online the VSS seems to be the cause
I called another mechanic and he said it could be caused by the ABS or the three sensors
I’d appreciate your thoughts on this
Hi, I think that replacing the OSS (output shaft speed sensor) would fix your VSS fault. Yes, the wiring on the connectors for the sensors (on the harness itself)
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks, I will order it and try to replace it, how do I distinguish it from the other sensors? And can I access it from above the engine bay?
@@dominozonda You'll have to go under. It's next to the RH axle where it goes into the transmission. It's covered with a silver wrap that you slide off
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles got it, thanks a bunch
150k miles original dct get shudder once in awhile but overall hasnt given me any issues
Awesome. I would be prepared just in case. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2014 focus titanium, i changed the fluid, tcm and actuators in August because it was not shifting properly. Starting having shifting problems again. U think the actuators are bad again? Getting the shift fork A codes and all that again. I bought the ebay actuators so they probably went bad fast.
Are you getting P283(1,2,etc) codes? If so, it's probably a bad tcm, and they're free until 2025. The shift fork actuators are built into the tcm. The clutch fork actuators are bolted on the transmission. Hope this helps!
Im getting p0843 and p3128. I replaced the tcm. I wish i knew they were free tho. Ima get another one
@themacofalltrades573 wait, those codes make no sense for a DPS6. Can you double check the codes?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles ok i will do that and check back with you. Thanks for your time i really appreciate it
Ben I have almost 80k on my '17 Focus all original trans equipment far as I know. I dont have issues with ahifting or severe shudders. The main thing I notice is my car feels like it's driving through molasses and has to be coaxed to rev in the first few gears after a lot of driving. Do you think that is trans related? 🤔🙏🏻
Hey.. want to record a short video of that and put it in my discord or fb group? any codes?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Howdie no codes or obvious issues just goes from feeling very spunky in the morning to very sluggish after the car is warmed up all the way. Feels spunky again once the car has completely cooled off. Almost like driving in eco vs sport. I don't have anything to really record sadly lol 😆
@@randalcalvert270 If you can reset KAM with forscan, you can try again - if it drives normally for a while, it may be a biased upstream o2 sensor. I'd also put new spark plugs and a new purge valve in. And air filter, clean MAF
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Good ideas! It has a new air filter & purge valve, but I will probably make new spark plugs and cleaning the MAF my next project. Don't believe they have ever been touched. Thank you 😊
Im taking my 2013 Focus to the closest dealer hoping to get the TCM done in the morning. 98k, just replaced both actuators with OEM,but kicked out the same code. How expensive is it to have the clutch and forks etc at the shop? I don't have much time to dive into the r&r,wish I did, but I don't.
If it needs a clutch job, it'll be between 2800 to 3600 dollars roughly. Hopefully it's a tcm issue. What code?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles It's P0805,and P2872
The dealer ordered a TCM for me,and recommended that I get the clutch, forks,etc done. Quote was 3700. 42 mpg is hard to get rid of.
Do you ever use Motul Multi DCTF fluid?
No, I haven't given that a try
Just finished installing a new clutch and forks in my 2014 focus, I was curious about which transmission fluid I should be getting. Which would you recommend since I know it’s not going to be normal automatic transmission fluid.
You can use the factory Motorcraft xt11qdc fluid if you'd like. Other options include amsoil dct fluid, redline mtl 75w80 gl4, royal purple 75w80 gl4. Good luck 👍
Part number for the update tcm
Ae8z-7z369-f
Hey Ben, I replaced the clutch forks and actuators on my niece's 2013 for focus (thanks to the helpful videos you put out) It drove fine for a few months. THen it started losing R because Clutch B stuck open. I would just pull actuator B off and put it back on and it would work again. This worked for a while. It would stay drivable for weeks, then it went down to every day, and now it doesn't go into R at all no matter what. Any suggestions on what might be the issue. I'm hoping I don't have to drop the trans again.
(I strongly recommend to anyone with a Ford to subscribe to Bens channel if you having issues)
When it is drivable you would never suspect there is a transmission issue, which makes it weird.
@@bobbyc5922 hi, new actuators can be bad right out of the box, often, so I would warranty the bottom one 👍
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the super fast reply. Would it matter if I have swapped them to see if the code changed to the A side? Because I have done that and it always triggers B side clutch stuck.
The actuators ordered were cheap actuators though. Think my sister got 2 china made for 85 dollars.
1st, Great videos and good audio quality. 2nd Used your link to buy the clutch off Amazon and C. Excellent explanations. My 16 Focus SE HB clutch fork finally popped at 148k. Any thoughts on trans oil? Factory or aftermarket? Thanks again 😊
Thank you for using the link! I recommend amsoil dct fluid
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles link for amsoil?
@@bvonsvideos www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-100-synthetic-dct-fluid-dct/?code=DCTQT-EA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwte-vBhBFEiwAQSv_xWEflIZO2tyonp72pInGt6UuSu9l3flcAEmvEYVU0szsE5cTR_uMexoCcvgQAvD_BwE
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Or...just get something else, and not have to worry about it to begin with!
I still own, and love this car. However I absolutely hate ford and can no longer support this car. I had a 2012 Ford Focus which should have been covered under the 12M02 (I believe?) warranty coverage to get a new TCM Module. That 12M02 recall warranty is a 10 year warranty. They were on backorder due to covid and didn't have the part in NYC until 2023. They couldn't grant me an extension on the warranty - ford basically lemon'd my car. Those ECOBoost engines are great, and the feel of the car was amazing, but a warning to folks who have a 2023 - don't put off the repair! 2023 is ending soon!
14m02 provides a free tcm until 2025 IF it fails. Thanks for watching
Hi - is it possible/not a big deal to take out the dps6 and put in the manual? ( i''ve got a 14 fiesta that shudders second, on hills with weight in the car ---- thanks a lot, and thanks for your vids.
@questionreality6003 yup! Best bet is to find a crashed 5 speed fiesta and swap parts over. Transmission, flywheel, clutch, pedals, brake master reservoir, shifter, cables, harness