Turning my EXPLODED 3d print into an awesome terrain piece
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2024
- Yes, I'm an idiot. Let me show you what I did wrong, so we can all learn together and not make the same mistakes!
Some things featured in this video:
New merch! www.midwinterminis.com/
Raffle tickets to win my infamous Nurgle Tank: youcouldwin.co.uk/competition...
The printing setup...
The printer: uniformation3d.com/?sca_ref=5...
The resin: yesthats3dprinted.com/?ref=mi...
Rack shelving: geni.us/rackshelving
Pickle jar: geni.us/picklejar
Non-stick tray: geni.us/nonsticktray
A "beginner's Q&A" for 3d printing I recorded with @FauxHammer: • 3D Printing - Beginner...
Check out Dorkfactory: www.myminifactory.com/users/d...
Huge thanks to @LPP_YT for helping me figure out what went wrong.
Music by Midwinter Minis and the RUclips Audio Library.
Support us on Patreon, get a shout-out, jump on the Midwinter Minis Discord, and take part in the Painty Points competition! / midwinterminis
Listen to our album: • Midwinter Minis - Deat...
Buy our album: midwinterminis.bandcamp.com/r...
Surprise your friend with a personal video from Guy! www.cameo.com/midwinterminis
Guy on Instagram: / mwminis
Here are some useful links for stuff we use. Amazon gives us a few pennies if you buy using these, at no extra cost to you!
The wall-mounted paint rack I use: geni.us/nailpolishrack
The voiceover microphone I use: geni.us/PodcastPro
The painting lamp I use: geni.us/DaylightLumi
The “hobby cam” I use for livestreams: geni.us/LogiBrioWebcam
My favourite headphones: geni.us/BeyerDT770Pro
The camera I used in 2020: geni.us/mwm50
The camera I use now: geni.us/SonyAlpha728-70
How I mount my camera to my desk: geni.us/SmallrigDeskClamp
My airbrush compressor: geni.us/AirbrushCompressor
My airbrush: geni.us/IwataAirbrush
The airbrush set I started with: geni.us/RevellAirbrush
A great model paint starter set: geni.us/VallejoPaintSet
A great beginner paint brush set: geni.us/RLTaklon
Cheap brushes for detail work: geni.us/RLDetailTaklon
#3dprinting #gktwo #warhammer 
Развлечения
The tiny little "ITZ DA GHAZGHKULL THRAKAAAA" was the cutest thing I've heard this month.
The sheer ENERGY put into the "FRAKKAAAAA!" made me so proud
It was the highlight of the video. I loved it.
Now that's a good hobby dad!
Cute? Absolutely terrifying! Hahaha
I know, it just brightened my day
The sky mounted UV lamp makes fools of us all at least once
Especially when you fall asleep in a warm afternoon outside with your shirt open...
@@MidwinterMinis
A) look, someone's drawn on your chest with sun cream whilst you napped
B) what, like a double aquilla?
A)......
B) For thrones sake!
Yup. I'd've done the same mistake. Taking it outside for fumes sake & elbow room is ever-tempting.
"I forgot there's a bloody big UV curing lamp in the sky"
That is a wonderfully British thing, haha
Genuinely, I find this sort of thing the most interesting. Being creative and turning mistakes into "happy accidents" is a lot of fun to me, and something I'm more into than just assembling and painting official models.
Totally agree with you on that
Good Guy Guy:
Messes his print up on purpose to give us awesome content and make us feel better about ourselves. Truely wholesome!
The golden light of the God Emperor brought down your heretical chaos warlord in the making, Guy!
Amazing conversion and recycling 💪🏻
"...now that I say that out loud...." If I had a dollar for every time I said that.... I feel your pain, Guy!
Love the upcycling. keep on keeping on. we learn every day.
Yes sir!
Well I think what might have happened was that the inside was still completely uncured, because it had massive holes with thick walls enclosing it, there was no way for the uv to actually actually cure the inside of your models.
The Shoulders look like they have been cured well because you can blast the surface from both sides. The torso fell apart because only the outside was cured and dried out.
What I do with IPA is to wash it thoroughly and let it dry normally, no fan, just sitting out in the dark until its a bit more dry.
Then I check it for any leftover resin and such.
I have a curing station that has a magnetic attachment to my IPA container to cycle the Alcohol in a whirlpool. I think you need to do something similar by actually moving the washing liquid over the resin to get it to wash off.
And of course, do everything in the dark, cure it well, and aim any hole you might have had for draining towards the light first to get the uv light into the deep inside of the print first and occasionally move your print around a bit.
I cure for up to half an hour in my little UV machine and have yet to see a single print bust open on me.
Another safety tip is to keep your cured bits on the windowsill, so they soak up some free sunlight just in case.
You are way too kind dude. Thank you for the shout out. ❤
Don’t take this the wrong way, but I love to see fails. I get why more channels don’t dwell in the things that just didn’t work, but I fail in crafting sometimes and it’s nice to see a cool pivot or a genius recovery. I’m a new subscriber!
When printing hollow models, it's really helpful to run a small UV light inside the drain holes to cure the interior as well. Without the interior curing, you will often end up with explosions like you've had here.
Or ya know, print with clear resin...
TBF im fairly experienced with 3d printing and have printed a few titans at this point... and I saw you go to do your inital wash outside and though "huh, what an innovate way to vent the fumes"... not "you idiot"... seamed like a really good idea and I was scratching my head untill you talked to steve... wouldnt call that a rookie mistake... just trying new things.
It is a great idea, just gotta do it after dark is all.
Yes, the video was really helpful Guy. While I can't yet get into 3D printing, your excellent terrain piece shows how even failures can be useful. When you took the print outside to clean it, I thought, "Good idea", but you've saved me from ever making the same mistake. Great video, thank you )O(
Guy, these kind of videos are what makes your channel amazing. I would like it twice if I could. Please keep sharing things like this, as it helps use all grow out hobby. Thank you!
I really love to the level of sequential detail you went into documenting this failure, it makes it something I can genuinely learn from aswell
This video reminds us that even a failed print can still be useful. Also, it's nice seeing someone else make the mistakes we might make, so we don't feel alone in making them.
Hey Guy, a little tip for printing hollow models, make sure you use a uv light to cure the inside part of the model too. If you leave the inside uncured and build the model. The uncured resin can release gas and that can cause the model to crack/explode after sitting on a shelf for a while.
"We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents" - Bob Ross
Great video, love recycling in this hobby
I appreciate your principle in showing failure and potential pitfalls we all could face.
Those dark ad mech on top on the terrain piece go so well together, be awesome to see you expand on it 🤙🏻
This is the kind of content I come for! Not the failures but the transparency of oops it didn’t go right how do you roll on from a mess up
Absolutely smashing! Talk about making lemonade when you get lemons. Fabulous stuff Guy. Best thing that can happen with mistakes is when we not only learn from them but discover something cool too.
RUclips apology vibes in the first few seconds.
Gotcha!
Oh god, Guy's bringing out the Uke!
@@leiagelwasser2168Noooo not the Uke!
Love the fact you show your "experiments" warts n all! Great instructional video on "Ideas that sound good, but are really not". I didn't think of the outside cleaning being the issue either LOL. Great recovery though - and an awesome piece of unique terrain in the end. Cheers from Melbourne, Australia
Unfortunate mistake but (as of the time of watching) that's 40,000+ people who won't ever repeat it, so thanks for taking one for the team!
Opportunistic! I love it! ❤
I was just waiting for the realisation it was unintended UV exposure as this is nearly exactly how I messed up my first printed dreadnought 😂
I reckon you've definitely saved your viewers more than a few headaches and the terrain came out looking absolutely stellar.
Honestly gives me a few ideas for my bigger misprints 😊
Keep the printing content coming, it can be invaluable to see someone getting into the hobby from scratch and anything midwinter is going to be entertaining as heck.
For what it's worth, the idea of a mech scrap heap is really cool, and the terrain came out great. It also would have never occurred to me that the sun would cure resin, so fair enough
honestly, in my experience, water-washable resin is a lot of work for a slight convenience. If you want to avoid using alcohol for cleaning you can use an ammonia solution like Mean Green or other such cleaners, they don't give off as many fumes,although you will have to treat the bottle like bleach to keep it away from the children, no fumes but still bad to drink, works pretty damn good too.
thanks for showing the whole process! I think its important for everyone to know that things won't be perfect always. Even after printing for years I still make mistakes.
A recommendation I have after watching is to possibly skip the hair dryer, as the heat from it can slightly warp the parts. Even worse it could splatter un-cured resin that may happen to not have washed off fully around with the air from it.
Another word of advice I can offer is sometimes Its worth the extra resin to NOT hollow a model just for that added bit of durability. You may be paying a bit more in terms of resin, but its far cheaper in time AND resin in the long run compared to having to re-print something that ends up having major damage later.
I think showing people that you can use your 3d printing mistakes does a lot for the hobby!
Hey... Can we just appreciate that Steve is basically the on call Tech Priest forMidwinter Minis xD
Awesome. Thank you for showing these steps. I would have done the same and never figured it out why, The terrain turned out great. Looking forward to the actual large chaotic mecha painting. Nice video. Keep up the good work.
Something similar happened to me the first time I used a 3d printer, I placed my whole setup in my small yard, it was covered with polycarbonate, and I thought it was going to be enough to prevent the UV cosmic rays from curing my resin, but it was not, and at some point, almost all the resin in my tank got cured while I was removing my first print out of the plate, at the moment was scary and stressful, but now I know 3d printers are strong machines and failing is part of the fun.
Just have fun and enjoy your printer, damaging one is hard, at least if you always make sure that there are no cured resin bits in your tank before printing. I invite you to try other resins, maybe the one you are using is not the best for you, it is something like paint brands, It is possible the one you are using works great for your friend, and without trying other resins is hard to know if the one you are using is really good or not.
EDIT: Made this comment at around 7:24. I fully agree with Steve on the subject.
So my two cents here, and everyone can correct me if I'm wrong, I too am not infallible.
1) A rule of thumb for "water-washable resin"; if a single rinse doesn't completely clean it, either throw it in a vat(or US cleaner) with soapy water, or use isoproponol to clean them thoroughly. This will keep your prints from looking too grimy. In addition; who told you that water will dissolve your UV-hardened resin? Cuz that person needs to check the bloody acidity of their water, that ain't healthy.
2) You double cured your parts. NEVER double cure them. Cure them once in the chamber and if they ain't good then, leave them out for a while. The crack is a result from uneven hardening from the UV light. I don't know if the platform they were on rotates or not, but that might be something to keep in mind. Someone else also mentioned you need to put holes in hollowed parts; yes, but some of the cracked parts had holes in them. They just weren't properly cleaned out(see cent 1).
Other than that, we've all been there with prints going awry. No shame in screwing up and working with it. As always, splendid video.
super enjoy watching your journey through different mediums. Absolutely keep these videos coming!
When Guy said "I am a fool" I felt that
You didn't fail making a model, you found a "simple" way to create destroyed titans. 😁
Also, I was thinking, could the print supports be used for battlefield debris. Like rebar and such in buildings.
Also a few things, best way to clean resin, break off all your supports before cleaning.
Have a two stage wash cycle, two different contains with IPA. Put your models in the first one and swish it around, gets all the resin in the large amount off, then move them into the second one to remove any extra. The first one will become way dirtier quicker from all the large amounts of resin. For me I do the double setup while also keeping a spray bottle of IPA, spray the models before washing and after breaking the supports off. Then dunk it in the first, swish it around, then dunk it into the second. Let them dry completely, then cure.
Make sure your resin models are also completely dry from IPA, otherwise your going to get that white chalky stuff all over once cured.
Also over curing takes hours of extra curing to actually damage the model, and that will just cause shrinking/warping/becoming brittle.
Great to see you salvage something awesome and out of something disappointing! Keep up the good work
That price estimate on the screen reminded me of how much cheaper resin printing is than actually buying from GW. I REALLY need to get into resin printing. Heck, think I'm going to buy a setup for my upcoming birthday now...
Love the premise of the video, great execution and final result
Keep up the great content
Also please finish the heroquest series!!! I really love your take on the painting and I really like how you bring in one of the old models as well as the new! I have my original set painted and need to dedicate the time to painting my new version at some point
The whole point is that if you are really a pro in 3D printing, you will never laugh at those who start. From my personal experience (and I think I can call myself a pro in the field of 3D printing), the 3D community is very kind and responsive.
YESSS HES ACTUALLY DOING THE HOBBY AND MAKING MISTAKES AND LEARNING AAAAAGH YES GOOD CONTENT
So cool. You are just awesome at what you do. I love this terrain Piece!!!😍
Thanks bud!
Hey man, idk if you'll see this, but i popped onto the newest video in the hopes you do. I just wanted to say I'm going through the same stuff as you, and it's so inspiring to see you keep on with your passion. Your channel has helped me a lot through tough times 💖
I'm glad to hear that buddy! Stay strong
The instant he said "so I took it outside" I knew what was gonna happen lmao, even the grey English skies can't stop those rays!
As a terrain piece, £8 for what you've created really isn't too bad from a money pov...
I've stopped using water washable resin altogether since I kept having the cracking issues as well. Can't pretend I love the isopropyl smell, but it beats the pains of water washable.
New favourite video unlocked
Don’t get me wrong but this terrain piece video is better than another big model assembly. And very informative also about printing!😊
one of the most indepth and helpful 3d printing channels who focuses on model printing and making is OnceInASixSide, he even has a huge database and website that tier lists different model makers in terms of printability and ease of use, but his whole channel is a chilled back super beginner friendly 3d printing channel, worth a look and maybe collab?
Love how guy made the best of a bad situation. GG and thanks for the vid!
Great video Guy! I enjoyed the video and making terrain from failed prints is a great idea.
In this hobby accidents are just learning lessons, well done for keeping it real abd thanks for sharing.
Hi Guy... Thanks for the T-shirts and stickers. Gonna use them when i paint up some Old World
@MidwinterMinis There is an easy way to reduce the smell of cleanup in your case (that is: if you're using Water Washable Resin). In your pickle jar and your ultrasonic cleaner you can use a mixture of about 90% water and 10% alcohol. You can use IPA, but methelated spirits will do just as well.
This mixture will ensure a good washing result and doesn't smell nearly as bad as pure alcohol. That way you don't have to take your print outside. 😃
Disposing of the dirty mixture is easy as well: pour it into an open containter and leave that outside. It will evaporate and the residue will be cured resin which you can dispose of normally.
I have never thought that the sun can mess up a print that hard thank you for sharing!
This was a great way to turn around a fail and also give a little word to the wise to people looking into printing more!
Thanks for sharing your learning experience with us! I'm pretty new to printing as well (and also got all my printer recommendations from Ross, though not the same house-call concierge service 😁).
One thing I've found is that I prefer to remove my supports before I even put the prints in the pickle bucket. In my experience doing so gives a double bonus of having less resin polluting my IPA as well as not trapping any liquid resin under the supports so the pickle bucket wash does a better job.
Keep up the great content!
Hello Guy!
Will you create any warbands for Trench Crusade? Would love to see what you could come up with.
You're the first person to tell me about it! I'll check it out... the promo pics look great
@@MidwinterMinis 2nd this request.
@@MidwinterMinis Crossing my fingers, Here's hoping for a future video
@@MidwinterMinis Trench Crusade has an amazing art direction, would be really neat to see what you can do with their models.
There's something really cool about building such an impression terrain piece out of materials that would have probably ended up in a landfill
Guy: "I worry about the ipa fumes inside"
Later burns plastic inside.
I like, nothing wasted!
the terrain turned out really great !
No, you didn't mess up, you tried something new and I think learned a lot. Thanks for having the integrity to show us that.
Never need to apologize for showing how to recover from issues.
Don’t feel to bad apparently water washable resin also doesn’t play well with hollow models so that may have also played a roll in it. All the same it is the only resin I use, I’m still new but never had this problem.
I also don’t think you need to do an ipa bath first I’ve just been washing them off in the pickle jar full of water and it’s done the job for me. So maybe just try with water next time.
2:24 if you ever have print issues, don't use pre-supported files, Chitubox has a built in support function
Nice save!!!!! Cool build 😊
Had this issue this week, thanks for the wisdom!
I had the same experience wirh water washable resin, its really hard to clean. The whole model was covered in a resin sludge and it looked soft. Which sucks because the IPA does really pump out the fumes. Apparently methalated spirits is less strong and works well.
I feel the pain of big kit printing. Been printing a Lord of Skulls equivalent for a bout a week now. Ton of early stuff scrapped to layer lines or delamination. Only kept one delaminated part since the area is very small and should be fixable with some putty. Also not wanting to do a 10+ hour print again after already redoing several 8 hour prints.
Great lesson mate
The main issue was the watter wash, even if you use 70% IPA or hardware store alcohol you will get bad results.
And never heat dry resin, you will warp it! just let it sit in the corner for 1-2 hrs or overnight and let it naturally dry
The cracking is a big/hollow model problem. When resin cures it shrinks, how badly varies from resin to resin but I've seen ones the shrink by up to 5%. You can test this via printing a calibration cube, something that's like a centimeter cube and measure it coming off the printer then after curing. The issue is that when you cure the model the outside can shrink while the inside still wants to be the original size. This puts stress on the model and it can crack. The way to get around this is the biggest drain holes practical and then after curing it, shine a UV flashlight in it or get some UV string lights you can dangle in the cure the interior as well. That's also just good practice.
I think it was EBay Model Rescues that ran into this with making some upgrade parts for a knight, was having issues with the dimensional accuracy because he was using a resin with a high shrink factor.
Enjoyed the video Guy, keep up the good work!
Guy, I find that saving up multiple plates of cleaning/curing I can do it all in one go to minimise fumes. I do clean outside, but I'm in Belfast, so less issue with sunlight. I do however cover all my models when they are not in the IPA, to block the big UV bulb in the sky. I think also mixing your cleaning methods may not be the best idea. Keep it one or the other. I've also heard that water cleaning works best under flowing water, as it mainly works by literally washing away the spare resin. I believe IPA breaks the surface tension making it easier.
In short, I'd stick up a sun brolly, cover my models and clean outside using IPA.
From the looks of things, not all of the resin drained from the hollows.
Also, even though sunlight can cure resin, it isn't that powerful compared to the curing station. Whenever I've heard of people doing that, it normally takes hours of exposure to do it. UV exposure can weaken plastics, but even with things like ABS, that can take a little while, days or weeks. I think what's more likely is that the drainage holes didn't let all of the resin out and as the parts were heated by the blow dryer and the curing process (all of the resins I've heard about generate heat from the curing process, which can also speed it up in a lot of cases) it also heated up any air and fumes trapped in the parts, aka gas. There's something called the Ideal Gas Law. The equation that defines it is pV = nRT.
p = Pressure
V = Volume
n = the number of moles of whatever gas you have in the volume
R = the Ideal Gas Constant
T = temperature
To explain what's going on, I'm going to assume that n and R are both equal to 1 since they are both going to be constant. This leaves us with the following.
pV=T
And since the volume isn't changing, we can divide both sides by p to get:
V = T/p
So, if Volume doesn't change, what this tells us is that if the temperature goes up, the pressure will also go up. What happened is that the temperature was rising and increasing the pressure. This forced the resin out of any holes/cracks it could find, which is why you had uncured resin coating everything. When you went to cure it longer the pressure increased enough to crack the cured resin shell and split it apart.
Incidentally, the Ideal Gas Law also helps explain why diesel engines work without spark plugs. They are compressing the air and aerosol diesel into a smaller volume. This increases the pressure and the temperature to a point that the diesel hits its ignition temperature.
Anyway, that's what I think happened, and the solution is to make sure that all of your parts have properly sized and placed drainage holes if you're going to hollow them out. You'll also want to invest in a UV light that you can shine into the holes to cure the insides as well. Alternatively, you can split the shell into parts that are keyed so you can glue them together after curing, but you have to be careful of warping any thin walls.
Just my two cents.
I'd recommend for miniatures, to use the TGM-7 resin, it's easily the industry-leading material for miniature production.
Used cat litter is the best basing material, totally agree.
Good work as always guy
Thank you! Cheers!
I just started my 3d printing journey about a year ago, and I ran into so many of the same problems with my large(and small) prints that I’ve taken a few months break from printing. This video and seeing someone who’s honestly such a legend in the 40k community make the same mistake was just the motivation I needed to get back at it, and I think I’ll take my first crack at it today 🫡
Mistakes are how we learn, even when it's so frustrating. That terrain is sick af, too. Can't wait to see the final titan.
Honestly this is brilliant.
Im glad to see that its not just me who makes printing mistakes and i learned how to deal with a problem ill likely bump into for the future.
There are so many destroyed Lokhusts i printed that are sitting sadly in the corner like Sid's toys from Toy Story. Maybe ill bust them up and make some terrain
I don’t know this specific resin, but in my experience, hollow pieces printed with water washable resins tend to crack. Other resins, not as much. Again, just in my experience.
But for sure the extra long curing time, plus the sun, were the main culprit
Picked up that kit as well, its a real showstopper
The hack everyone misses is that you should print exclusively with clear or transparent resin.
The second part is using ethanol instead of isopropyl.
The third is adding 10% by volume acetone to your dunk rinse...
While I'm sorry to hear about the printing, that base really is awesome. You definitely get the trophy for "most creative use of a cybermech" 😂
@Midwinter minis: I had this happen too. The reason is two fold. If you are using water washable resin….DO NOT clean it with ANYTHING other than water. Especially depending on the resin. Some brands the alcohol actually starts to break down the outer layer of resin and you get that goopy melting look. JUST USE WATER!!! Additionally NEVER over cure models especially hollow ones and ones made of softer resins like water washable resin.
I did nearly the exact same thing when I was just starting to 3D print. Don't beat yourself up too much about it, it's all part of the journey!
If the parts are hallow with no breathing holes then you have something called cupping which basically means as the part is pulled off the print screen it pulls a vacuum and can bugger it up.
Also when you have finished washing, if the parts are still tacky then they arnt clean.
What I do is. Rinse off in ipa to clean off the very worst of the resin then fizz them in cleanish ipa in the wash station. If parts come out of the washer still feeling tacky the the ipa in the washer isnt clean enough.
One warning for hollow stuff though is that you will never get all the resin out! Make sure the holes are good and big so you stand the best chance to clean it or cure it.
It happens, you didn't waste much. Live and learn and all that lol
fantastic stuff, I myself have done lots of terrain with really damaged/destroyed vehicle models before.
Excellent lemonade, excellent video!
Enjoyed this! Thanks
I would suggest using one of those Airbrushing boothes with the built in Fan/Filter that has a window exhaust tube, run it next to your printer while its printing and should help with fumes.
I tried to print a metal slug tank, it failed catastrophically, but now it's one of my favourite pieces of terrain as a wreckage
One of my biggest hobby successes was having a print fail and turning it into terrain. It's always a great option to salvage a potential failure.