I have the same PSA upper with a PSA 20" barrel. I was able to achieve .582 MOA @ 100yds with 27.9 gr AR-COMP + Accubond 129gr LR and .37 MOA @100yds with 27.3 gr AR-COMP + 123gr Hornady SST. I tried several powders through this barrel and it only liked AR-COMP. I had the same case issues and the case gauge did it for me too. I had to run my Hornady brass through the full body die and then adjust it so that the brass would be in spec by measuring it in the case gauge.
i had to run every single piece of my brass through the case gauge which is super annoying but whatever works i guess. i've really had nothing but problems with that gun/die set so i got rid of it. gonna start over. glad you're seeing some really good accuracy with yours though.
Nice video, I have 3 6.5 Grendel barrels from BCA . The 18" & 20" barrels print nice groups. Using Hornady and Wolf. The 11 " pistol barrel isn't functional as of yet . Glad to see a positive video about BCA .
When you are first working up a new load with a new powder or projectile, drop to 3 rounds per group and look for patterns in your groups. Saves time and $$. That should give you a good idea of where you want to focus your efforts. As far as time goes, I generally go 10 rounds at a time, but it depends on the weather. I don't let my barrel get hot enough that it's uncomfortable to touch. My Grendel is a 24" from Sanders Armory. At 400 yds it shoots 3/4 to 1-1/4 moa with factory ammo and 1/4 to 1/2 moa with hand loads. My favorite powder so far is N530. I load 123gr SST for plinking and 105gr Cavity Back MKZ for Indiana whitetails. I have some 123gr Scenar to work with, but I haven't had a chance to work with them yet.
@@avarageguy8934 I'm using a Reading full length S die on my Grendel, but I don't remember which bushing I'm using with it. This is my first bushing die, but I like it. Most of my sizing dies are either Redding or RCBS. I use Redding competition seating dies because I like them, and the micrometer adjustment makes adjustments easy. My single stage is a rock chucker, and I've added a Hdy lock n load bushing to it. That, in conjunction with the micrometer stems makes it super fast and easy to document each load and duplicate them as needed. I have loads worked up for multiple projectiles for all of my rifles, so this set up is really handy for me.
Very nice info, I find that I like non fluted barrels much better, heavy ones. When the barrel expands just a touch, you can lose accuracy , doesn't take much. Try and cool the barrel you have completely when shooting your groups, you should find the same as the first ones. In Viet Nam we shot heavy plain barrels,, 800 yds dead center on the pumpkin.
Yes sir, I have also started using these as well. They are great for finding a problem. What I did find with my 7mm-08 was that the brass is not the same after going through the sizer. Polished my shell holder down just a few thousands and it fixed any issues I had for reloading. The 6.5 Grendel tool is hard to get right now.
I have a 20" BCA barrel also. Mine is melonite, non fluted, heavy profile with 5r. I've had good success with Hornady 95gn vmax using 8208xbr. 2850 fps into 3/4" groups.
I have tested a few of the H-Blacks and didn't like what I got. Opened up 3 of them, and they are loaded Hot and uneven. I load the 120 gn. HPBT. Love this round. Loaded at 26.5 H335. Also going to test the H4895.
I have had really good luck with 8208XBR and 10X. I went from an Alexander Arms 18" barrel to a 20" Bear Creek. The Bear Creek is a much better for accuracy..I'm also using their side charging upper.
Always size and prep new brass...... no matter what caliber. If you are remotely interested in any sort of accuracy anyway. I trimm to the shortest case in the batch ( within reason ) so they are all the same. De burr the flash hole, size , unifor the primer pockets, de burr and chamfer the case necks. It takes any sort of guess work out of the equasion.
I hear you i resized 7.62x39 to 6.5 Gren. I had to surface lap my case holder to be able to properly size them. Once that was done it was off to the races. My AR build wasn't too hard and without doing a real ladder test I'm shooting 500m ,no issue. The load closely matches the Hornady Custom Match 123 SST. XBR8208 is my choice for powder.
good to know. i'm definitely going to have to lap the surface of mine too because something funny is going on with it. I finally had it all sorted out then i went to do another round of loads and they were all out of spec even after the body die. i think the suspect is the case holder.
@@coreyd1474 I have the exact same barrel as you, i'm also using the 123gr SST bullets with 8208xbr powder, starline brass mostly, have some hornady brass from black ammo but keep them separate when loading. haven't noticed any opening up of the groups when it gets hot, I'm pretty sure it doesn't. I don't generally like fluted barrels for reasons like this but this barrel kinda changed my mind about that. maybe lapping the upper receiver might help, i'm sure PSA didn't do that. I do that with every rifle I build.
@@jonjames4281 I just started lapping my upper receivers, but I think I need another compound that's more course. My 600 grit takes forever to get anything accomplished. Do you use a mix of compounds? I'll probably add 200 grit to start and finish with 600.
I just went through this myself with a different casing. The barrel I have is more like yours, Very Sensitive about sizing. As mush as .005 will cause it to jam. Turns out that the very butt of the casing was just a little short for complete sizing.
@@coreyd1474 I have found that full sizing isn't a good ideal because the sizing die isn't opened up that far. I came agross it being too small 0.008 to 0.010 undersized. Doing this 3-4 times will weaken the case and it'll blow apart.
Also found that the best powder for the 120 and 123 Grain's was H322 powder. I have loaded to max and readed a touching paten at 200 yard's. So let me know if you get a floating shot every time it cool's. I have a fix for that too!
Great review...thanks for putting up the vids...I just built a BCA 6.5 Grendel with a 18" SS 5R straight flute and I'm shooting the Hornady 123 Black ELD.....mine is dead on just like yours to start out....nice and tight when starting out and then groups open up a little with barrel heat up. I could lay my shot targets beside yours and they would look almost identical.
hey at least we know their barrels are consisten LOL. i actually built another one in 6.5g. not sure if i'll do a review on it or not haven't really had a chance to get out and test it.
I just gave up on my bca barrel and Ordered a Wilson combat. The barrel and thread protector was as much as my hole upper to start lol. Worth a try. Same issues with accuracy.
Years ago when this round first came out I had to have one. I went to the gunshot and picked up RRA lower w/ 2 stage match trigger, Magpul PRS stock, Alexander Arms 24" Overwatch upper, Millet 6-24-50 (Cheap scope). That rifle shot 1 hole groups at 100 yards with Hornandy EDL Match, I shit you not! But you have to remember I spent around $1,000 on the upper alone. I am kicking around the idea of building a 6.5 Grendel pistol.
Viet Nam vet ,I always found that fluted barrels can give some issues, I always shoot or use heavy no fluting barrels, mine shoot .50 groups @@InSightFreedom
All of my rifles that have a twenty inch or longer barrel I have upgraded to a Larue MBT two stage straight bow trigger. Everything else have a nickel boron coated single stage triggers. I also have LMT muzzle brakes on four different rifles. 5/8 X 24th 308. They are normally $134.95. Right now $25. Flat rate shipping is $15. No tax. If you buy four. Free shipping. They are now producing a muzzle break that works with their suppressors. So they are closing out the old model. I also noticed a lot of companies using their 308 muzzle brakes on smaller calipers. Turns out it only loses 1-3% efficiency. So if you have a 243 Winchester or a 6.5 creedmoor. You’re fine. As long as they are 5/8X24 threaded barrels.
@@coreyd1474 i paid 350.for one and 4 something for the 24 inch..uppers..I picked ther top of the line uppers!! I will tell ya more when I have more ammo..but I also love the side chager on this..I packed a m4 around for 13 years..and I would take the side charger then the standard..
Great video! I'm gonna start reloading for my 6.5 in a few weeks, thanks for sharing this especially that razor blade thing for case length. Good hunting Corey!
Yes, fairly easy. I am shooting 95 grain vmax with 32.5 of cfe223. Under an inch some groups half inch. I have some 123 sst bullets to reload for, but I have a shot time of Hornady black for deer hunting. Holds an inch with that. I use the 95 grains for woodchucks
I just stumbled across this I have a bear creak upper in 6.5 grendel and so does my dad and we’ve found they prefer the 127-130 weight range of bullets way better then the 120
I bought a complete 16" 7.62x39 HEAVY BARRELED COMPLETE UPPER from BCA a few months ago. With Wolf 123's it shot on the average 1 & 1/2 5 shot groups at 100 yards but would open up to over 2 inches when the barrel got hotter. Thought that was pretty good but I got looking at the barrel a little more. It didn't even have a crown on it, was rough & uneven ? So I tore the whole damn thing apart, ended up doing some work on it. I lapped the receiver, bedded & crowned the barrel. It now shoots sub MOA at 100 yards with same ammo, opens up just a touch now when hot but still under MOA at 100 yrds. I have too get reloading dies for it & try reloading this round.
You know i never had a problem with reloading with my lee dies i load for 6 guns and 0 problems with half being bear creek even the cheapest grendel has been getting under a inch i have 20 18 16 and 10.5 with benchmark h335 cfe223 and n133 and shooters world match rifle has all been good choices my 400 yard range is well tested with grendel loads.
you know the problem was really me i never loaded for auto loaders before just bolt guns and i wasn't taking the extra steps to make sure the cases were in spec but i got it all sorted out now.
Any barrel that heats up from that many shots is going to open up the group. The idea is one shot one kill with a long range application. Don’t be discouraged, your first group was on the money, which is what you want.
Sounds like you need to do a reloading course. Neck sizing only works fof bolt guns. Semi autos stretch the case so you need to FULL LENGTH RESIZE, TRIM THE CASE.CHECK LENGTH AND THEN CHECK AGAIN.. READ LEE RELOADING BASICS OF RELOADING
Hello Corey The Problem is the same as what happened to me on 300 BLK. The Brass cases are designed to be fired Once. I was able to get One reload. then all hell broke loose. The Brass doesn't have enough Tin in it. There for the Copper expanse in the chamber out of Spec. and stick to the side of chamber walls, At the Primer Base where the sizing Die does not size. trying to fix it. The primer pocket became out of spec and primers would not hold. Primer pop. As I worked the problem It became a no win for reloading. I looked at 20 different manufactures of brass used and new, local and abroad. They were all to soft out spec after the first firing. There is nothing wrong with your Rifle everything is related to the Brass cases. My solution is steel cases reloaded with your own powder and Bullet. The bullets in the steel case Ammo are steel jacketed lead filled bullets. The bullets will ware down the rifling in the bore. While in the chamber will be fine. The steel Cased powder is dirty, by using your own powder it will leave you with only one problem. The Teflon like coating on the steel will be to easy on your extracting system you may have to use a heavier buffer to make it cycle smooth
@@bad_vaporizer brass? Never as long as 6.5cm is doing as well as it is. The 6.5mm round is relatively inexpensive compared to others that have been around for a while
Yep bought a 18" 6.5 grendel BCA upper, Anderson lower but they sent me the casings of the rounds they test fired it with looks just like the Wolf ammo I bought. Also ppl talk about the looseness of the upper and lower match up mine is tight real tight you have to push the takedown pins hard and don't use your finger nails it will break them off. Only fired 40 rds through it so far. Fires great 10 ends in a 50 cent piece good enough for me . The pins will loosen up eventually.
Is reloading even worth it from a financial standpoint point? I know in the past bit today? Also I dont understand cheaping out on a barrel after spending all that money and time on reloading. Why not get a Criterion barrel? I got one in my AR10 with a 3.5 drop in and an Aero NB bcg. I'm not a shooter. That rifle makes me seem like one though. I accidentally double tap when I'm too light on the trigger and when I do it happens so fast the group is sub moa every time it happens. 🙃
i just more or less wanted to try the bca barrel. i think with my 6.5 creedmoor loads i save like 5 cents or something over factory loads but you get the consistency so imo its definitely worth it.
I sold this gun a long time ago. Got tired of the non stop issues. But it did come with thread protectors at least but yea for the price I figured I'd give it a shot.
Bca is a great product great prices. I have the 24" 6.5mm grendel bca upper. I run a dead air muzzle break flat shooting bitch. 140 grain sst or eld and h335 26.5grain to 27 grain max. Running 10x40 50 mm ZOS SCOPE. I run my bullets at max length out more accurate less bullet jump into rifling. Never had good results with the lighter smaller bullets in factory made ammo.
Heating issues and group size relates to stress relieving. You bought a cheap barrel and it still shoots 1.3moa, that's not BAD but it's not GOOD either considering what the Grendel cartridge will do with a _quality_ barrel (Faxon and Ballistic Adv. for example) or even top-tier barrel makers barrel like a Lija or Shilen. Stainless barrels won't take heat as well as a 4150 CMV will either but really it looks like your barrel wasn't stress relieved properly. Not surprised seeing it's from BCA.
no you're absolute right. i wasn't going for the highest end stuff so i wasn't expecting sub moa stuff from an 80 dollar barrel. but i think we can all agree that for 80 thats pretty much as good as it gets.
It also has to do with your choice of powder its temp sensitive and as your barrel heats up the shell in chamber is to this changing velocity and point of impact try benchmark or ar comp
@@coreyd1474 In the video it looks like a full length sizing die body. The expanding mandrel is important for proper neck tension unless you're neck sizing after that's working the brass and awful lot.
I know this video is old, but I don't want anyone to think that using the case gauge is equal to using the go/no go gauges. Just because you're cartridge is a certain size does not mean you have proper headspace. With high pressure rifle chambers you are taking some serious risks if your headspace is wrong. That is the point of using the no go, field, and go gauge. You can probably get away with just using the no go if it doesn't fit. You will need the field gauge if the no go does fit, and a factory round is probably be fine to test as a go gauge. You take responsibility for your own safety when making changes to your guns. You shouldn't assume that it's right and if it seems too expensive to buy the tools. It's much cheaper than paying for medical bills or a funeral.
I didn't know you wasn't supposed to shoot steel through the bear creek upper. I took mine out today shot one box of wolf steel case it wouldn't group at all!!
I had a bca 20 inch stainless barrel non fluted. when it heated up it did the same thing group sizes went to crap. the bca barrel would shot about 5 shots really good then all down hill. I replaced it with a 22 inch Wilson combat super sniper barrel. now it no longer has a problem. bca barrels are junk.
yea i mean you get what you pay for. definitely worth it to try but stick to what works. i have a heavy bca barrel in my 10.5 inch gun and its just fine.
I have an easier way to measure Center to Center without having to GUESS where the exact center is. Just measure Outside edge to Inside edge. Or you can do it the opposite way if you prefer, Inside edge to Outside edge.
it looks to me that your parallax is off which gives you a different sight picture when your eye is not in the same spot. put a piece of tape on the stock where you want to put the corner of your mouth till you get use to it.
I have an 18 inch BCA upper and went as far as shimmering the upper and making the barrel to the upper flush and true. I also discovered that with a heavy barrel fluted or not should not be torqued to more then 50 lbs or torque. This can cause the upper to flex every time you shoot. Causing bigger groups. When I shoot I wait about 3 minutes between shots with the BCG open to allow the barrel to cool along with a bipod and muzzel brake about 3 inches long helps keep the recoi. Keeping the barrel down on a flatter plain.
Nov 2020, Still waiting for availability on PSA site. Is the 16" a good barrel length or go with 18" & 20"? PSA also has 12" but bot sure what the ballistics is for such a short barrel for the round.
How did you install your barrel? Did you bed it? It seems to me that when the barrel heats up, something is touching the barrel? What about your gas tube? Does it touch the hand guard while hot?
@@coreyd1474 My guess is that steel chews up their extractors (you can find comments about chipped extractors in the reviews on their site). They replace broken parts for free under warranty (including extractors), so they'd prefer you use brass-cased ammo!
Thanks Corey for the video super informative, its definitely going to help me with my 6.5 build. Also have you tried an ar barrel cooler I've had good results with one.
@@leou84 i'm not real sure to be honest with you its not listed as a spec on their website. but i can tell you its HEAVY. if you're looking for a rifle to carry around the hunting woods i probably wouldn't use this barrel.
@@leou84 he's right, I went with the 20" and after a few hours of lugging it thru the woods I ask myself why I didn't go at least 18 if not 16 I thought for distance I would want as much velocity as I could get and have since found data showing shorter barrels to not effect velocity as much as it would in other rounds like 5.56
Try 129 or 130 grain hpbt. Sight in at 50 yards then move to 200 and you should be dead on. I have been reloading Grendel for 4 years now. I use cfe 223. 2376 avg fps. Bc .521
I have this same barrel. For some reason it shoots.... meh... I get about 2-4" groups with wolf and 3-2" with ELD. My Saturn 5R rifled 22" shoots sub MOA, so the BCA upper is just a wolf shooting plinker.
@@coreyd1474 i like it takes out the charging handle! The only down fall is i can noy you my bolt release that fits on the release button because it is to small of a area for it to fit!! But I use it on my 224 Valkyrie!!
Not trying to argue with ya hahaha!!! but bear creek said it was fine to shoot wolf?? they even have some videos of the 6.5 using wolf? maybe something had changed after that who knows lol... I wanted the 20" fluted from BCA but was sold out so I went with PSA 20" ss 416r full length gas, adjustable gas block A2 barrel , hope its good!! love my BCA 16" 5.56!!/!! . Nice video man, subbed!
The spread is bullet seating depth the jump and heat makes it spead out sir. Why i hand load sir. Also its like a bell in your barrel more or less powder changes the harmonics and accuracy. Your first shot group of the h322 is the butter zone for your barrel with the bullets you have. I'd get that to tighten up more play with your seating depth of you bullet try leaving it out longer there's a big jump on 6.5mm bullets to reach your rifling with lighter bullets. That's why i shoot 140 sst or eld . try same load and take 5 of the same coal you have now. Next 5 little longer out same powder charge then 5 more little more out till you reach the max coal or better smaller groups. 1000th in seating depth will make a difference sir per the older wiser hand loaders i talk to im 50 they are alike 70 80 years old and have been loading over 50 plus years with age come wisdom.. Also try shooters choice fp10 lube and cleaner best stuff ever. Anti friction anti corrosion cleaner. Watch RUclips video of MUSCLE MT10. Same stuff as shooters choice fp10 . micro metal treatment evens out overall barrel pressures and makes your gun last longer too.
Before you go & get oh, Hmmm, I bought a button field barrel, for 35$, & broke it in gently, & it's a 338cal, & my wild cat cartridge design, & it's a huge "TapTap tack driver. So let me sort something out for you. Before we say ,you did this & that wrong or diffrent. Let's take that thought for the gun😊. & Separate it's performance from yours. Now the barrel has vibes , rt😊 go buy the , "thickest " I'm fat, & tightest fitting rubber o ring , & put it on barrel or even 2side by side ,to start. Make the loads with H332 ,best group also. & Move the ring up & down the barrel ,it will talk to you & change your groups, controlling the wave lengths / vibe in barrel, & showing if it's all you ,or your loading assembly skills ,to details. Or equipment ? Groups got wide fast & only littel amounts of heat & shots ,as I see things ,Hmm🤔
I don't have a 6.5 Grendel but I vdo have 4 BCA barrels. My M4 .223 Wylde barrel gives me a consistent 1-1.5 group with Wolf gold 55gr. My 10.5 .300 BLK Out heavy barrel gives me consistent 1.5 groups with PPU Privi 125gr.
Corey, check out my channel with me testing out my reloads.. get some xbr8208 or ar comp powder.. use 450 primers.. you should see some better results. Nice rifle btw.
This is the kind of review I like to see. No annoying music, no personal background info, just an honest review. Many thanks
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching!
Agreed. I want to see results, not a guy scowling menacingly in wraparound sunglasses.
@@fin_jan I mean I could. Probably find some of those sunglasses and do it again LOLOL
A + for the “No annoying music and getting right to the point.
i make them how i want to see them. no bullshit
I have the same PSA upper with a PSA 20" barrel. I was able to achieve .582 MOA @ 100yds with 27.9 gr AR-COMP + Accubond 129gr LR and .37 MOA @100yds with 27.3 gr AR-COMP + 123gr Hornady SST. I tried several powders through this barrel and it only liked AR-COMP. I had the same case issues and the case gauge did it for me too. I had to run my Hornady brass through the full body die and then adjust it so that the brass would be in spec by measuring it in the case gauge.
i had to run every single piece of my brass through the case gauge which is super annoying but whatever works i guess. i've really had nothing but problems with that gun/die set so i got rid of it. gonna start over. glad you're seeing some really good accuracy with yours though.
Nice video, I have 3 6.5 Grendel barrels from BCA . The 18" & 20" barrels print nice groups. Using Hornady and Wolf. The 11 " pistol barrel isn't functional as of yet . Glad to see a positive video about BCA .
i mean can you beat it for the price? as long as they aren't having catastrophic failures
When you are first working up a new load with a new powder or projectile, drop to 3 rounds per group and look for patterns in your groups. Saves time and $$. That should give you a good idea of where you want to focus your efforts. As far as time goes, I generally go 10 rounds at a time, but it depends on the weather. I don't let my barrel get hot enough that it's uncomfortable to touch. My Grendel is a 24" from Sanders Armory. At 400 yds it shoots 3/4 to 1-1/4 moa with factory ammo and 1/4 to 1/2 moa with hand loads. My favorite powder so far is N530. I load 123gr SST for plinking and 105gr Cavity Back MKZ for Indiana whitetails. I have some 123gr Scenar to work with, but I haven't had a chance to work with them yet.
@@avarageguy8934 I'm using a Reading full length S die on my Grendel, but I don't remember which bushing I'm using with it. This is my first bushing die, but I like it. Most of my sizing dies are either Redding or RCBS. I use Redding competition seating dies because I like them, and the micrometer adjustment makes adjustments easy. My single stage is a rock chucker, and I've added a Hdy lock n load bushing to it. That, in conjunction with the micrometer stems makes it super fast and easy to document each load and duplicate them as needed. I have loads worked up for multiple projectiles for all of my rifles, so this set up is really handy for me.
thanks for watching.
Very nice info, I find that I like non fluted barrels much better, heavy ones. When the barrel expands just a touch, you can lose accuracy , doesn't take much. Try and cool the barrel you have completely when shooting your groups, you should find the same as the first ones. In Viet Nam we shot heavy plain barrels,, 800 yds dead center on the pumpkin.
yea since this i've stuck to non fluted barrels and they are slightly better IMO.
Yes sir, I have also started using these as well. They are great for finding a problem. What I did find with my 7mm-08 was that the brass is not the same after going through the sizer. Polished my shell holder down just a few thousands and it fixed any issues I had for reloading. The 6.5 Grendel tool is hard to get right now.
have you looked on amazon? thats where i got mine.
I have a 20" BCA barrel also. Mine is melonite, non fluted, heavy profile with 5r. I've had good success with Hornady 95gn vmax using 8208xbr. 2850 fps into 3/4" groups.
does it hold that grouping or does it get worse as it heats up?
@@coreyd1474 I haven't fired enough consecutive shots to heat my barrel up. Scrolling through your other videos, you from 937?
@@castironbuckeye yep. columbus area
@@coreyd1474 Cool, I'm a member at LCF&G, let me know if you want to shoot out to 300yds.
@@castironbuckeye haven't heard of that i may have to look it up. Fortunately for me i can shoot up to about 450 yards at my place!
I have tested a few of the H-Blacks and didn't like what I got. Opened up 3 of them, and they are loaded Hot and uneven. I load the 120 gn. HPBT. Love this round. Loaded at 26.5 H335. Also going to test the H4895.
thanks
I have had really good luck with 8208XBR and 10X. I went from an Alexander Arms 18" barrel to a 20" Bear Creek. The Bear Creek is a much better for accuracy..I'm also using their side charging upper.
thanks
Always size and prep new brass...... no matter what caliber. If you are remotely interested in any sort of accuracy anyway. I trimm to the shortest case in the batch ( within reason ) so they are all the same. De burr the flash hole, size , unifor the primer pockets, de burr and chamfer the case necks. It takes any sort of guess work out of the equasion.
You're absolutely right. This was my first time loading for gas guns. I've since done what you said and have had zero issues. Thanks for the input!
Cold bore shots are always the most accurate.
not sure about that one
I hear you i resized 7.62x39 to 6.5 Gren. I had to surface lap my case holder to be able to properly size them. Once that was done it was off to the races. My AR build wasn't too hard and without doing a real ladder test I'm shooting 500m ,no issue. The load closely matches the Hornady Custom Match 123 SST. XBR8208 is my choice for powder.
good to know. i'm definitely going to have to lap the surface of mine too because something funny is going on with it. I finally had it all sorted out then i went to do another round of loads and they were all out of spec even after the body die. i think the suspect is the case holder.
@@coreyd1474 I have the exact same barrel as you, i'm also using the 123gr SST bullets with 8208xbr powder, starline brass mostly, have some hornady brass from black ammo but keep them separate when loading. haven't noticed any opening up of the groups when it gets hot, I'm pretty sure it doesn't. I don't generally like fluted barrels for reasons like this but this barrel kinda changed my mind about that. maybe lapping the upper receiver might help, i'm sure PSA didn't do that. I do that with every rifle I build.
@@jonjames4281 I just started lapping my upper receivers, but I think I need another compound that's more course. My 600 grit takes forever to get anything accomplished. Do you use a mix of compounds? I'll probably add 200 grit to start and finish with 600.
@@4g63mark I use 220 grit, that's it. can't imagine needing to go to 600
I just went through this myself with a different casing. The barrel I have is more like yours, Very Sensitive about sizing. As mush as .005 will cause it to jam. Turns out that the very butt of the casing was just a little short for complete sizing.
a shoulder resizing die did the trick for me.
@@coreyd1474 I have found that full sizing isn't a good ideal because the sizing die isn't opened up that far. I came agross it being too small 0.008 to 0.010 undersized. Doing this 3-4 times will weaken the case and it'll blow apart.
Also found that the best powder for the 120 and 123 Grain's was H322 powder. I have loaded to max and readed a touching paten at 200 yard's. So let me know if you get a floating shot every time it cool's. I have a fix for that too!
Great review...thanks for putting up the vids...I just built a BCA 6.5 Grendel with a 18" SS 5R straight flute and I'm shooting the Hornady 123 Black ELD.....mine is dead on just like yours to start out....nice and tight when starting out and then groups open up a little with barrel heat up. I could lay my shot targets beside yours and they would look almost identical.
hey at least we know their barrels are consisten LOL. i actually built another one in 6.5g. not sure if i'll do a review on it or not haven't really had a chance to get out and test it.
I just gave up on my bca barrel and Ordered a Wilson combat. The barrel and thread protector was as much as my hole upper to start lol. Worth a try. Same issues with accuracy.
Years ago when this round first came out I had to have one. I went to the gunshot and picked up RRA lower w/ 2 stage match trigger, Magpul PRS stock, Alexander Arms 24" Overwatch upper, Millet 6-24-50 (Cheap scope). That rifle shot 1 hole groups at 100 yards with Hornandy EDL Match, I shit you not! But you have to remember I spent around $1,000 on the upper alone. I am kicking around the idea of building a 6.5 Grendel pistol.
it really is a good round too bad i'm sure its OOS everywhere, i haven't looked lately.
Glad I stumbled across this. I’m working on my 6.5 Grendel build. Should have my lower built in a week.
Glad i could help! last few times i checked BCA's site these barrels have been out of stock.
Corey D I’ve been teetering in the 24” SS Fluted complete upper. Really want to build out the whole rifle but the price is so tempting.
Viet Nam vet ,I always found that fluted barrels can give some issues, I always shoot or use heavy no fluting barrels, mine shoot .50 groups @@InSightFreedom
All of my rifles that have a twenty inch or longer barrel I have upgraded to a Larue MBT two stage straight bow trigger. Everything else have a nickel boron coated single stage triggers. I also have LMT muzzle brakes on four different rifles. 5/8 X 24th 308. They are normally $134.95. Right now $25. Flat rate shipping is $15. No tax. If you buy four. Free shipping. They are now producing a muzzle break that works with their suppressors. So they are closing out the old model. I also noticed a lot of companies using their 308 muzzle brakes on smaller calipers. Turns out it only loses 1-3% efficiency. So if you have a 243 Winchester or a 6.5 creedmoor. You’re fine. As long as they are 5/8X24 threaded barrels.
by far the best trigger for the money. only better trigger i've felt is the one in my JP
The numbers on box are from a 24” barrel.... thats pretty much standard across a lot of calibers.
cool
I have 3 BCA UPPERS OUTSTANDING PRODUCT!!
yea i mean for the money i agree it's a good product. not great but good.
@@coreyd1474 i paid 350.for one and 4 something for the 24 inch..uppers..I picked ther top of the line uppers!! I will tell ya more when I have more ammo..but I also love the side chager on this..I packed a m4 around for 13 years..and I would take the side charger then the standard..
Great video! I'm gonna start reloading for my 6.5 in a few weeks, thanks for sharing this especially that razor blade thing for case length. Good hunting Corey!
thanks for watching, good luck!
Having the same issues with shoulder bump. Set my die to hornadys directions. Need to turn in die off the shell holder like all others.
I bought a Wilson combat barrel to replace the bear creek and shoots great
getting sub moa?
Yes, fairly easy. I am shooting 95 grain vmax with 32.5 of cfe223. Under an inch some groups half inch. I have some 123 sst bullets to reload for, but I have a shot time of Hornady black for deer hunting. Holds an inch with that. I use the 95 grains for woodchucks
I would guess the groups opening up have to do with how the barrel was stress relieved. But I'm no expert
you are an expert
I just stumbled across this I have a bear creak upper in 6.5 grendel and so does my dad and we’ve found they prefer the 127-130 weight range of bullets way better then the 120
yea i've had good luck with 130 gn eldm and hornady black
yea i've had good luck with 130 gn eldm and hornady black
I bought a complete 16" 7.62x39 HEAVY BARRELED COMPLETE UPPER from BCA a few months ago. With Wolf 123's it shot on the average 1 & 1/2 5 shot groups at 100 yards but would open up to over 2 inches when the barrel got hotter. Thought that was pretty good but I got looking at the barrel a little more. It didn't even have a crown on it, was rough & uneven ? So I tore the whole damn thing apart, ended up doing some work on it. I lapped the receiver, bedded & crowned the barrel. It now shoots sub MOA at 100 yards with same ammo, opens up just a touch now when hot but still under MOA at 100 yrds. I have too get reloading dies for it & try reloading this round.
thats pretty darn good for 762x39
You know i never had a problem with reloading with my lee dies i load for 6 guns and 0 problems with half being bear creek even the cheapest grendel has been getting under a inch i have 20 18 16 and 10.5 with benchmark h335 cfe223 and n133 and shooters world match rifle has all been good choices my 400 yard range is well tested with grendel loads.
you know the problem was really me i never loaded for auto loaders before just bolt guns and i wasn't taking the extra steps to make sure the cases were in spec but i got it all sorted out now.
Any barrel that heats up from that many shots is going to open up the group. The idea is one shot one kill with a long range application. Don’t be discouraged, your first group was on the money, which is what you want.
yea no bad for the money.
Sounds like you need to do a reloading course. Neck sizing only works fof bolt guns. Semi autos stretch the case so you need to FULL LENGTH RESIZE, TRIM THE CASE.CHECK LENGTH AND THEN CHECK AGAIN.. READ LEE RELOADING BASICS OF RELOADING
sounds like you need to do a how to be nice to people course
Hello Corey
The Problem is the same as what happened to me on 300 BLK. The Brass cases are designed to be fired Once. I was able to get One reload. then all hell broke loose. The Brass doesn't have enough Tin in it. There for the Copper expanse in the chamber out of Spec. and stick to the side of chamber walls, At the Primer Base where the sizing Die does not size. trying to fix it. The primer pocket became out of spec and primers would not hold. Primer pop. As I worked the problem It became a no win for reloading. I looked at 20 different manufactures of brass used and new, local and abroad. They were all to soft out spec after the first firing. There is nothing wrong with your Rifle everything is related to the Brass cases. My solution is steel cases reloaded with your own powder and Bullet. The bullets in the steel case Ammo are steel jacketed lead filled bullets. The bullets will ware down the rifling in the bore. While in the chamber will be fine. The steel Cased powder is dirty, by using your own powder it will leave you with only one problem. The Teflon like coating on the steel will be to easy on your extracting system you may have to use a heavier buffer to make it cycle smooth
interesting. good to know, thank you for the input!
Wow you just keep posting videos I need. I just built my grendel. Bear creek upper and Andersen lower. Haven't shot mines yet.
i tell ya, BCA has had some SUPER CHEAP uppers and its been real hard not to buy a few more lol
When do you think the price of grendel ammunition will come down?
@@bad_vaporizer brass? Never as long as 6.5cm is doing as well as it is. The 6.5mm round is relatively inexpensive compared to others that have been around for a while
I was hoping it come down to the level of 223/556
@@bad_vaporizer na way too specific of a cartridge never will
SUPER good video. Very informative and helpful
much appreciated
Do not know way Bear Creek Arsenal says no steel case ammo when I bought mine they gave me the 3 test shells they fired and it was steel cases?
HAHA were they really? thats funny.
Yep bought a 18" 6.5 grendel BCA upper, Anderson lower but they sent me the casings of the rounds they test fired it with looks just like the Wolf ammo I bought. Also ppl talk about the looseness of the upper and lower match up mine is tight real tight you have to push the takedown pins hard and don't use your finger nails it will break them off. Only fired 40 rds through it so far. Fires great 10 ends in a 50 cent piece good enough for me . The pins will loosen up eventually.
I think they are worried about the steal ammo that comes in steel cases and copper washed
Is reloading even worth it from a financial standpoint point? I know in the past bit today?
Also I dont understand cheaping out on a barrel after spending all that money and time on reloading. Why not get a Criterion barrel? I got one in my AR10 with a 3.5 drop in and an Aero NB bcg. I'm not a shooter. That rifle makes me seem like one though. I accidentally double tap when I'm too light on the trigger and when I do it happens so fast the group is sub moa every time it happens. 🙃
i just more or less wanted to try the bca barrel. i think with my 6.5 creedmoor loads i save like 5 cents or something over factory loads but you get the consistency so imo its definitely worth it.
I would not have accepted that package in that condition. Glad it seems to have worked out for you.
I sold this gun a long time ago. Got tired of the non stop issues. But it did come with thread protectors at least but yea for the price I figured I'd give it a shot.
Try going with a Rock Creek "24 barrel.
thanks for watching
Heat shouldn't make group size increase but will make point of impact shift
they will 10000% open up in group sizing the hotter they get especially cheaper barrels like these.
Try some IMR 8208 XBR and Sierra 120 gr got my best groups with 26.3 grains
thanks
Love my Grendel!!! It's a tac driver!!!
its a great round
Bca is a great product great prices. I have the 24" 6.5mm grendel bca upper. I run a dead air muzzle break flat shooting bitch. 140 grain sst or eld and h335 26.5grain to 27 grain max. Running 10x40 50 mm ZOS SCOPE. I run my bullets at max length out more accurate less bullet jump into rifling. Never had good results with the lighter smaller bullets in factory made ammo.
thanks for watching!
Heating issues and group size relates to stress relieving. You bought a cheap barrel and it still shoots 1.3moa, that's not BAD but it's not GOOD either considering what the Grendel cartridge will do with a _quality_ barrel (Faxon and Ballistic Adv. for example) or even top-tier barrel makers barrel like a Lija or Shilen. Stainless barrels won't take heat as well as a 4150 CMV will either but really it looks like your barrel wasn't stress relieved properly. Not surprised seeing it's from BCA.
no you're absolute right. i wasn't going for the highest end stuff so i wasn't expecting sub moa stuff from an 80 dollar barrel. but i think we can all agree that for 80 thats pretty much as good as it gets.
It also has to do with your choice of powder its temp sensitive and as your barrel heats up the shell in chamber is to this changing velocity and point of impact try benchmark or ar comp
My 24 inch bear creek barrel will shoot sub 3/8 inch at 100 with 123 eld-Ms and 140 barnes
Why not using a full-length sizing die? They can decap at the same time but I decap clean then full length size n bump the shoulder .02
yea i've since got a body die and that solved the issue.
@@coreyd1474 In the video it looks like a full length sizing die body. The expanding mandrel is important for proper neck tension unless you're neck sizing after that's working the brass and awful lot.
I know this video is old, but I don't want anyone to think that using the case gauge is equal to using the go/no go gauges. Just because you're cartridge is a certain size does not mean you have proper headspace. With high pressure rifle chambers you are taking some serious risks if your headspace is wrong. That is the point of using the no go, field, and go gauge. You can probably get away with just using the no go if it doesn't fit. You will need the field gauge if the no go does fit, and a factory round is probably be fine to test as a go gauge.
You take responsibility for your own safety when making changes to your guns. You shouldn't assume that it's right and if it seems too expensive to buy the tools. It's much cheaper than paying for medical bills or a funeral.
thanks for watching!
I didn't know you wasn't supposed to shoot steel through the bear creek upper. I took mine out today shot one box of wolf steel case it wouldn't group at all!!
i think they say that just because its harder on the chamber than brass but i've ran it for years with no issue.
I had a bca 20 inch stainless barrel non fluted. when it heated up it did the same thing group sizes went to crap. the bca barrel would shot about 5 shots really good then all down hill. I replaced it with a 22 inch Wilson combat super sniper barrel. now it no longer has a problem. bca barrels are junk.
yea i mean you get what you pay for. definitely worth it to try but stick to what works. i have a heavy bca barrel in my 10.5 inch gun and its just fine.
@@coreyd1474 I bought some fire lapping bullets and fire lapped my bca barrel before I replaced it. which did help some.
for the only difference being heat after so few shots, makes me wonder about the barrel steel
yea but for the money what do you expect.
I have an easier way to measure Center to Center without having to GUESS where the exact center is.
Just measure Outside edge to Inside edge. Or you can do it the opposite way if you prefer, Inside edge to Outside edge.
thanks for watching
it looks to me that your parallax is off which gives you a different sight picture when your eye is not in the same spot. put a piece of tape on the stock where you want to put the corner of your mouth till you get use to it.
thanks for watching
So I can't shoot steel thorough my BCA upper? Why not?
no clue why BCA says no steel. Worked fine for me other than it was wildly inaccurate
I shoot steel out of my 7.62x39 BCA its accurate .
You can it’s just going to deviate from their accuracy ratings.
Also void warranty on barrel
How long of a break did you take between fire in the rounds?
i'd shoot 10 rounds then wait 5-6 minutes.
I have an 18 inch BCA upper and went as far as shimmering the upper and making the barrel to the upper flush and true. I also discovered that with a heavy barrel fluted or not should not be torqued to more then 50 lbs or torque. This can cause the upper to flex every time you shoot. Causing bigger groups. When I shoot I wait about 3 minutes between shots with the BCG open to allow the barrel to cool along with a bipod and muzzel brake about 3 inches long helps keep the recoi. Keeping the barrel down on a flatter plain.
Nov 2020, Still waiting for availability on PSA site.
Is the 16" a good barrel length or go with 18" & 20"?
PSA also has 12" but bot sure what the ballistics is for such a short barrel for the round.
i've always seemed to have good luck with 20 inch barrels but i've seen others with no accuracy issues at 16 or 18.
I just got one from bca, prices are good, finding ammo is the issue
How did you install your barrel? Did you bed it? It seems to me that when the barrel heats up, something is touching the barrel? What about your gas tube? Does it touch the hand guard while hot?
i torqued it on myself i just think because its a cheaper barrel it doesn't hold accuracy well when hot.
BCA says no steel case ammo but the three rounds they test fired my upper with was steel cases hmmm?
yea no clue. ive never had an issue with steel and neither has anyone one else i know who has a bca barrel.
@@coreyd1474 My guess is that steel chews up their extractors (you can find comments about chipped extractors in the reviews on their site). They replace broken parts for free under warranty (including extractors), so they'd prefer you use brass-cased ammo!
Because they use cheap materials and dont want to have to replace it
Thanks Corey for the video super informative, its definitely going to help me with my 6.5 build. Also have you tried an ar barrel cooler I've had good results with one.
no i have not. thanks for watching!
Caldwell makes a really good one, I use it in my 224 valkyrie and ive noticed a big difference in my group's, it's a must have for any precision AR.
@@BurstAngel211 i'll have to check em out. probably get one for my RPR or 308
Nice i wanted to see a video of the flute depth but you can see from this thats its nice not to deep or shallow.
no they're pretty nice. the barrel is still SUPER heavy though. not gonna want to carry this around the hunting woods.
@@coreyd1474 what is the exact weight? I'm still deciding on a 20" barrel for my build and weight is a big factor for me.
@@leou84 i'm not real sure to be honest with you its not listed as a spec on their website. but i can tell you its HEAVY. if you're looking for a rifle to carry around the hunting woods i probably wouldn't use this barrel.
@@leou84 he's right, I went with the 20" and after a few hours of lugging it thru the woods
I ask myself why I didn't go at least 18 if not 16
I thought for distance I would want as much velocity as I could get and have since found data showing shorter barrels to not effect velocity as much as it would in other rounds like 5.56
Still a great upper for the price tho, and I'll be glad to have the longer barrel once when I get to do some long range stuff
Try 129 or 130 grain hpbt. Sight in at 50 yards then move to 200 and you should be dead on. I have been reloading Grendel for 4 years now. I use cfe 223. 2376 avg fps. Bc .521
doesn't matter what you want to try there isn't anything in stock to buy lol
How much is Black per box?
you can get it on buds for around $17/20 rounds. it shoots very well out of my new grendel also.
I have this same barrel. For some reason it shoots.... meh... I get about 2-4" groups with wolf and 3-2" with ELD. My Saturn 5R rifled 22" shoots sub MOA, so the BCA upper is just a wolf shooting plinker.
and why not shoot steel outta a 80 dollar barrel? xD
@@rreeves0710 right I mean how mad can you be like you said it's 80 bucks. In my eyes it's an absolute win
I think they are concerned with steel ammo becouse it can strip out your barrel fast
if its not worthy for steel its not worthy for brass IMO
Lol!! Mine were In a box with foam. Do not mind great uppers!
thanks for watching!
@@coreyd1474 I love the side charger!! I have 3 Bear Creek uppers now with palmetto lowers!!
@@slayer6936 haven't ventured in to the side charge, maybe one day.
@@coreyd1474 i like it takes out the charging handle! The only down fall is i can noy you my bolt release that fits on the release button because it is to small of a area for it to fit!! But I use it on my 224 Valkyrie!!
Any chance you sell hand loads? I’m just down the road from you and I just picked up a 6.5 upper
i don't have any loaded at the moment but i could make some for a fee
@@coreyd1474 what's the fee?
Try some 130 gr.Federal Berger rds.
i have 130gn eldm with 24gn of h322 shooting under minute consistently
curious what mags are you using
i think they're c product mags
What size torx was used to remove the handguard, T15?
Depending on who made it some are torn and some are allen wrench. And even those may very from a standard allen wrench to a metric allen wrench.
no clue
Yeah man I would suggest you try out a Geissele 2stage performance trigger, I understand that they run $250. but they're fuck'n cherry sweet bro.
they are the best
Not trying to argue with ya hahaha!!! but bear creek said it was fine to shoot wolf?? they even have some videos of the 6.5 using wolf? maybe something had changed after that who knows lol... I wanted the 20" fluted from BCA but was sold out so I went with PSA 20" ss 416r full length gas, adjustable gas block A2 barrel , hope its good!! love my BCA 16" 5.56!!/!! . Nice video man, subbed!
they say you're not supposed to but thats bs always works fine for me. Thanks for watching!
You getting rid of that 18” barrel?
na i'll keep it. may do another build sometime down the road who knows.
@@coreyd1474 That' a true AR guy right there. I could build 2-3 more complete rifles if i had the lowers haha.
The spread is bullet seating depth the jump and heat makes it spead out sir. Why i hand load sir. Also its like a bell in your barrel more or less powder changes the harmonics and accuracy. Your first shot group of the h322 is the butter zone for your barrel with the bullets you have. I'd get that to tighten up more play with your seating depth of you bullet try leaving it out longer there's a big jump on 6.5mm bullets to reach your rifling with lighter bullets. That's why i shoot 140 sst or eld . try same load and take 5 of the same coal you have now. Next 5 little longer out same powder charge then 5 more little more out till you reach the max coal or better smaller groups. 1000th in seating depth will make a difference sir per the older wiser hand loaders i talk to im 50 they are alike 70 80 years old and have been loading over 50 plus years with age come wisdom.. Also try shooters choice fp10 lube and cleaner best stuff ever. Anti friction anti corrosion cleaner. Watch RUclips video of MUSCLE MT10. Same stuff as shooters choice fp10 . micro metal treatment evens out overall barrel pressures and makes your gun last longer too.
thanks for watching!
25,000 feet per second 😯
blazing
Is this dude saying 6.5 grendo how gayo
you're gayo as mayo
Sell me the psa barrel. Awesome review
i got a whole bunch of them. can't beat em for the price.
@@coreyd1474 Got any 20" and 24" left?
i still have it if you want it.
@@javik98k48 nope. can't find em any where.
It's max spread not max Dev. Good luck
wow thank you for clearing that one up for me. been keeping me up at night.
I have a box of federal fusion and 2 boxes of hornady black. Everywhere else is sold out. Make me some I'll pay you? Lol
I've for a bunch of black I'll sell you LOL
@@coreyd1474 still have it?
BCA isn’t an upgrade. Jk I shot sub moa at 100 with a bca 16” heavy
Federal fusion 120 grain
until they heat up then they're shit.
If you ever decide you want to hate your life try loading 5.7 FN
lol think i'll pass on that one.
So you were only neck sizing your reloads on a gas gun. Rookie move.
no i was full body sizing. started using a shoulder resizing die and that fixed it.
If it can't shoot steel, than it doesn't belong in my gun safe.
right
Before you go & get oh, Hmmm, I bought a button field barrel, for 35$, & broke it in gently, & it's a 338cal, & my wild cat cartridge design, & it's a huge "TapTap tack driver. So let me sort something out for you. Before we say ,you did this & that wrong or diffrent. Let's take that thought for the gun😊. & Separate it's performance from yours. Now the barrel has vibes , rt😊 go buy the , "thickest " I'm fat, & tightest fitting rubber o ring , & put it on barrel or even 2side by side ,to start. Make the loads with H332 ,best group also. & Move the ring up & down the barrel ,it will talk to you & change your groups, controlling the wave lengths / vibe in barrel, & showing if it's all you ,or your loading assembly skills ,to details. Or equipment ? Groups got wide fast & only littel amounts of heat & shots ,as I see things ,Hmm🤔
thanks for watching!
25,000fps!! lmao i know what you meant
I don't have a 6.5 Grendel but I vdo have 4 BCA barrels. My M4 .223 Wylde barrel gives me a consistent 1-1.5 group with Wolf gold 55gr. My 10.5 .300 BLK Out heavy barrel gives me consistent 1.5 groups with PPU Privi 125gr.
for the money i mean can you really beat it? no not at all.
Corey, check out my channel with me testing out my reloads.. get some xbr8208 or ar comp powder.. use 450 primers.. you should see some better results. Nice rifle btw.
so awesome!
Ok th at is UPS or FEDEX for you. I know for a fact than when you send it out in great shape , the other on the other end up with a crappy package.
probably fedex, they don't give a single shit.
Ups did that damage not Bear Creek. Ups is the worst shipping company .
i respectfully disagree. USPS has held that crown for a long time lol
Better just do cold bore groups haha
no
Esses vídeos teriam que ter tradução simultânea perde_ se muito conteudó mesmo sabendo um pouco de inglês ele fala muito rápido.
thanks for watching!
The ports use of a plumber when he blames his tools
don't be a richard, richard