Axcel Landslyde Setup/Pros And Cons Of The Landslyde
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This is a DEEP DIVE into setting up the Axcel Landslyde sight. this video talks about the tough questions that nobody else wants to tackle. let me know what you think in the comments.
this channel is made for archers looking to become self sufficient in all aspects of the sport. we will be reviewing how to set up archery equipment in the most efficient way possible. We'll also be diving into some hunting videos, buying guides, and archery product reviews, along with some fun expedition shooting and miscellaneous videos. thank for joining the crew and welcome to Self Sufficient Archery!
#T.R.U.Ball/Axcel #Landslyde #archery #hunting
Again 1st class informative video ty Angus
Your very kind! 🙂 Thank you for watching!
@@AngusMoss_Archery You're the nice guy, Angus that goes out of his way to give honest and no bs info and educational reviews that in my books is priceless.... ty again
@@yvantomac9502 well thank you and its my pleasure!
No problem shooting lighter arrows! 6 gr per lb has always been my standard arrow weight. Killed mules and white tails with 60 lbs and 370 grains and mostly pass-thrus. My biggest concern is sharp broad heads. Thx for the vid!
Yes sir 100% agree! 🙂
I was lucky and got one here in down under - some additional comments:
1. the sight doesn't come with a complete set of metal tapes (LAS has a detailed scope of the package) so you might have adjust the poundage a little bit to match the speed that matches the particular tape.
2. the "normal" bow lights do not much - that's an issue with all the Axcel sights (at least with the ones I have) - as they use the end of the scope shaft where the light can be screwed in and it seems that the exposure of the optic fibers to this light is very limited due to this position. I might be better with a white led which I couldn't test - if someone has experience with Axcel scope and white led light (I only have the blueish / purple ones) I appreciate his / her comment.
3. the micro-adjustment feature for the pins makes the adjustments soooooo easy.
4. the second axis adjustment is a little bit a PITA as it requires to "micro-adjust" the windage to access the screws - o.k., I don't have to do it very often.
5. the quick-move feature of the slider is just a gimmick IMO - just using the wheel knob is already pretty fast, and I would have to switch to the wheel for the fine adjustment anyway.
6. wrt the setup:
watching Angus' tutorial here help obviously quite a lot so it was pretty easy, plus I used the UNO app to get the real estate of the pin layout (based on the speed - it is pretty precise) first; I played around till I got a spacing (based on the speed) that suits me: I need some gap between the pins to fixate my aiming point properly - if they are too close I struggle, especially in 3D on an older target that is heavily shot out plus bad light conditions. I set it up in a 15-30-40-50-60 meter configuration for approx. 320 fps arrow. The 2 pointers I used for the 15 meter pin as a floating pin and the 60 meter pin as the second floating pin. That allows me to cover a range of 0 to approx. 80 meters with the 15 meter pin, and a range of 60 to 120 (and maybe above) with the 60 meter pin by using the slider function without risking that the fletching hits the housing.
Overall, it is a fantastic sight, I wish it would allow the use of the normal cheap bow lights so.
wow! that's some great input! Thank you!
Is this video about the Axcel or arrow weights I'm confused.
Both
" if I had of known" 60 years ago I would have bought a rifle instead of a bow!!!! lol. Love my archery '
😂
...watched the video again (just so much going on in the video and I'm still contemplating getting this sight in a 5 pin configuration...)...here a thought that might help wrt placing the pins:
I use the app "UNO" (Android version - Google store) that gives you the gaps between the pins for your specific speed so you have the real estate the pins need upfront (the app actually provides a template), which may help to set the first and last pin (...and the ones between of course...). The app works surprisingly good - if you have a "normal" fletching configuration; the app uses an estimate for the drag coefficient (it is adjustable, but who knows the drag coefficient of his / hers arrow upfront?) ....for me the pins / pin gaps the software comes up with are pretty much spot on which would make it much easier to decide where I want to place the pins in the housing as I would know the distance available from the first pin to the top respectively from the last pin to the bottom of the housing.
I've never heard of the UNO app but I'll look into to see what its about! thanks for watching the video! I know there was a lot in it, I'm still working on the editing technique of these videos. I just wanted to try and get as much packed in as I could without draging the video out a ton. Thanks for all of the added information!
The +600gr arrow is for when you want the option of shooting pigs, not deer, throug any bone at quartering to angle. If you need that much to break the shoulder on whitetail is debatable. Mathews engineer said it's more of a matter of broadhead design, 2-blade single bevel being better with bones provided there's enough KE in the arrow. Way I see it, if I'm on ground, significantly larger portion of opportunities I'll have are full frontal or front quartering and the terrain I'd be shooting is denser bush so shots are close range and then heavy arrow is maybe a better option. Open country and elevated position I can wait for perfect angle and take longer shot so lighter arrow makes more sense. I'd like to see more people acknowledge arrow weight is matter of choise for different types of situations, not end-all thruth eveyone should follow.
I don't think a 600 grain arrow is necessary for many situations. I think the best tool to use is Grains Per Pound (GPP). Using GPP will narrow the topic to be specific to you. Bows are rated to be shot with 5 grains of arrow weight per pound of draw weight (generally it's 5 grain but some bows are slightly different.)
So if you're shooting an 80 pound bow and you make an arrow that's 8 GPP (which is heavy in the arrow building world) then thats still a 640 Grain arrow... AT 80LBS.. I don't know many people that hunt at 80lbs BUT if you are hunting with 80lbs then you can get by with it because you're shooting so much draw weight that your speed and arrow flight is not going to be affected. (As long as you can get a stiff enough spined arrow..)
If your a guy shooting 60 lb of draw weight then there is no reason to ever go over a 480 Grain arrow.. 70lbs guys shouldn't ever be over 560 grain.. and that's pushing it in my eyes.
The gain is not worth the loss with heavier arrows. I really don't think it's necessary to go over 7 GPP to be honest.
I think fixed blade broadheads are an accuracy killer but they do have their place if you're not planning on shooting anything over about 40 yards and your okay with cantaloupe sized groups
but I do agree with everything else that you said! 🙂
God bless!
way to complicated thank you I will not buy it .. Jesus who has 7 days to sight in a bow
😂 that's okay. I will say that once it's set up it's well worth it! You can do a lot with the sight. God bless.
Where do you see on the axcel site you can buy the stopper and additional arrows?
You may have to contact them directly
Was wondering this too, as I’d like some additional pointers.
Clark Dorothy Lee John Davis Michelle
I didnt watch this for arrow weight choices.
To sight in your top pin, why not just get an exact measurement from your two marks on the tape, then measure that same distance to set your top pin, since you've already sighted in the bottom pin? This should set your top pin perfectly at whatever the top mark was shot at. The distance between the bottom and top pin should be identical to the distance between the top and bottom marks that were created.
You could always use the metal yardage tape as the measuring guide once you found the correct one that matched the 20 & 60 to the top and bottom marks. Hold the metal tape on the bottom pin with your hand, and move the top pin up to the 20 mark.
Come to think of it, you could get your middle pins really close by using that same tape and holding it to the pins so the 20 & 60 marks line up with the top & bottom pins once they're set, then move the middle pins to the 30, 40, & 50. Once you've set them all, then install the tape to the slider.
New to archery here. I really don't understand the part of lowering your pins first. All the articles I read say to move up up now down 😕
Sorry for the late reply! I just I'm seeing this now.
The reason I say to lower your pins is to get the most range out of your scope for a slider style sight. It can also help with peep side alignment across all distances on your site tape. Mostly the clearance reason though.
What if I’m shooting left? I’m about 5 inches from the middle. Not sure if it’s my landslyde sight but def feels like it
Can you gang adjust the sight to the left? Obviously that seems too simple for you not to have tried but im just trying to get some more information on the problem.
Great video, just what I needed to get my new sight dialed in. Thanks for making this vid.
My pleasure! Glad it was helpful!
I've been shooting a fixed-pin sight forever, and I plan on picking up the 5 pin version of this sight. So would I keep my peep position where it is then find my 60-yard mark and then do the abnormal peep alignment for finding my 20-yard mark? Or will I have to move and find a new peep height?
I would get your 60 yard mark and your peep sight set together.
You should find that as you set your 60 yard mark (as long as you're gang adjusting your sight to set it) that you'll need to move your peep sight with every sight pin adjustment but then your sight will be off again.. you'll just have work them into the right spot together... It should take a few adjustments.
Once you get your 60 yard pin set and peep sight set you can start on you closest pin.
Don't worry about your peep sight alignment at 20. It's going to be wrong sense you have to move your sight housing up to use your 60 pin at 20.
Something else you could try is leaving the sight in it's original position (where you set it at 60) and setting the top pin at 20 yards.
Once you get your 20 pin set you can take a caliper and measure center of fiber to center of fiber and once you get that measurement you can put one side of the caliper on the 60 yard mark and put a mark on the other side of the caliper on the sight tape.
That should be your 20.
Never done it this way but it should work out well.
Exactly what I needed to get my 3 pin sighted in. Great explanation, and great content man
I'm really glad it helped!! Thanks for watching 🙂
How did u figure out your kinetic energy @ 60 yards I’m at 80ish out of my bow
I generally just use GoldTip's website for stuff like that, but you can do it yourself if you like. KE = ½ mass * velocity²
I just realized you said @60 yards.. I use an arrow ballistic chart (it's made for cross bows but it does the job either way). I'll link the site that I use.
www.bestcrossbowsource.com/crossbow-arrow-ballistics-calculator
you mentioned taking a pin out. do you have a video showing how to do that?
Hey man! I don't have a video of that, sorry.
Just got a second landslyde for a 3D bow and I HAD to come watch your videos before I spun my wheels on setting it up. This stuff is probably too advanced for the greenhorns but it helped me before anyway 1 hour worth of RUclips is well worth it. The point im trying to make is your content is great, Angus. Wanted to say thanks for making these landslyde videos - it certainly has helped me, brotherman
I'm really glad to hear it, man!! I'm super happy that the video helps! Thanks for watching and for all the kind words! If I can ever help reach out!
@@AngusMoss_Archery hey angus maybe one other thing you can help me with. In one of your videos I watched earlier you laid out all of the items you were installing on your Mathews v3. One of the items was the Mathews focus grip. NOT THE ENGAGE GRIP BUT THE FOCUS GRIP. Does that model grip fit on the VXR/V3/X/Phase 4?
I can’t seem to find anything on internet or LAS catalog that says what bows it fits on…most helpful verbiage I have found simply says …”fits most Mathews bows” thanks Matt
This is awesome. TY. (p.s. Great to hear you seek Him!)
I'm Glad it was helpful! 🙂 Thanks!
Really good job and great information. Thanks!
Thanks babe.
Does this work with a three pin as well?
Yes this should work exactly the same way for a 3-pin sight. 🙂
You need to watch the ranch ferry he shows like live stuff done with a radar how fast a light arrow slows down compared to a is compared to a heavy Carries the momentum and speed
Oh, trust me, I've watched them..
When his heavy arrow starts out slower then the fast arrow ends at impact there cannot be an optimality of that setup in any situation other than shooting 20 yards.
His theories make absolutely no sense whatsoever for anybody that wants to have a max distance over 20 yards.
I believe that he has argued his position for so long that even despite substantial evidence that his findings are less then ideal , he has an emotional attachment to his beliefs and won't come off of the hill he's standing on.
Momentum means nothing without accuracy.
I have a very long conversation with him on one of his videos where I completely dismantle his argument and he sticks to it anyways so I'm pretty sure he's just going to be stuck where he's at.
ruclips.net/video/CwAVbO1915I/видео.html
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I'm the second comment down.
Great info and video, thanks for sharing.
Great video.
Thank you!
a few more comments wrt heavy vs lighter arrows, and especially heavy arrow where the weight comes from a high FOC: I assume that most of the heavy arrow followers are somehow influenced by the Ashby studies, and some story telling fairies who promote them, and while this is very interesting material, after a lot of reading it seems to me that Ashby was really focusing more on short distances and ignored or overlooked what his postulates mean for longer distances.
E.g. in regards to his chase for a high FOC:
when contemplating about this (pros and cons) the following easy test / simulation came to my mind - all you have to do to find out about the negative impacts a high FOC has on long distance shooting is to grab an arrow at the center of gravity, hold it horizontal and let it drop from approx. 2 m - do this for an arrow with moderate FOC and for an arrow with high / ultra FOC: the arrow with a moderate FOC will keep the horizontal position much better than an arrow with an extreme FOC; the arrow with extreme FOC will nose dive.
Reason is not the weight difference between the arrows, or between the rear and the tip as the free fall is independent from the mass (the equation for free fall is DISTANCE = 0.5 x GRAVITY CONSTANT x TIMES^2), but the position of the center of gravity that will result in an extreme long lever for the ultra FOC and leads to a higher pivoting momentum due to the drag caused by the vanes. The vanes work like a parachute, and with the extreme lever they cause just more momentum thus the arrow with the high / ultra FOC will pivoting more around the center of gravity during its way to the ground - and it will tend to do the same what it's shown by this simple simulation on a 40, 50 ...80 meter shot as the physics for the vertical drop don't change.
This will not only cause a more curved trajectory, which IMO is acceptable as long as I can hit what I'm aiming for, but will also cause the arrow to fly in a nose diving position along the trajectory where the shaft causes additional drag. (Of course the drag of the vanes will work in every direction so there is the tendency to correct this, but this will be a constant battle). Ad a fixed BH as a sail to the front in this nose diving position and good luck with hitting what you are aiming for. The nose diving position will likely also compromise penetration at impact for longer distances.
For short distances the impact may be neglectable, but for longer distances this nose diving position where the shaft will cause planning will be much less stable thus will achieve pretty much the opposite of what the high FOC was meant for. Therefore a heavy arrow where the weight comes mainly from a high FOC will be very likely much less forgivable and therefore less accurate (not everyone is a hooter shooter or an Olympic archer 😀) compared to a more balanced arrow with a moderate FOC.
I acknowledge that this is all theoretical, but maybe someone reading this has some sources to back it up, or to debunk it, or has some information about testing already done...I guess it will take the accuracy for longer distances of an Olymic archer to verify whether this is all malarkey or whether my thoughts have merits 😄.
I love reading your comments! We are from the same pod my friend 🙂
And thanks for watching!