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D- loop height is as much of a factor in this or more than the cam timing.

I stopped watching when I saw the ford t shirt

Clark Dorothy Lee John Davis Michelle

The follow along group tune sounds great. I've been wanting to try group tuning but I have no idea how to fully go about it. Been wanting someone to walk me through it

I do pretty much the same thing, and I am primarily a bowhunter. I use my RAM tool to check the spine defection of a dozen shafts after they are cut to length and inserts installed. I mark the weak side of the arrow typically, then I shoot the bareshafts through paper at 6-7 feet out of a fairly tuned bow. If my bow is not tuned, you can't get good results, so I know I have to have it shooting down the middle before I start anything. Once I shoot each shaft through paper and get a bullet hole with that shaft, I re-mark it once again to the new nock position and erase the original mark. Then I fletch with my cock vane up to the new mark, then shoot through paper again after they are fletched to verify good flight/behavior. After this I typically go out and shoot groups at 20 yards to weed out any that might misbehave. I started doing this 15+ years ago and have pretty much effectively gotten rid of flyers and instead of having a dozen arrows where 4-5 might group while the rest have different POI's, I can get them all to group together. I normally can get at least 11 out of the 12 to hit the same spot every time. Great video and explanation. I hope more people find this video and can understand what you are doing and apply it their archery journey. I think it is well worth doing. Great job.

Nunzio is awesome

I was told to start at the weak side of the shaft up because the arrow will start its dynamic bend at the weakest side of the arrow. It looks like most of the arrows are tuning from the weak side? I read your long reply to someone asking about bare shaft tuning. The reason I bare shaft is finding my center shot. I don’t change length of arrow or point weight. I move my rest or shim cams to get the fletched arrow and bare shaft arrow to hit together. It saves me on the number of times I have to shoot my broadhead into a target. I shoot fixed blades. So this is way more advanced than what I’m doing? You’re already perfect center shot and this is arrow tuning only? Why couldn’t I follow this step by step video but do it with a bare shaft with my arrow weak side up as my starting point? It would allow more than just 3 different knock positions is why I ask.

I am recurve shooter. Continues score 9,2 at 18m and 8,7 on 70m. I agree with spine indexing (spine alignment measurement) when you shoot anything worse than easton ACE line. I watch at tournaments the compound shooters and have to say … Work on your form and mental side before …. 1.spine indexing + grouping weight +-0,25g. 2.bare shaft on 30m with 80cm spot…when everything is in the gold…number your arrow…analyse them with statistic apps 50shot/arrow and sort them out like they grouping and again …. work on you form and train harder… Paper tests are so last century…so many issues can cause a little slider worse flight trough the paper …at the end it counts where the arrow hit… so go to data=facts where the arrow (number) sit in the target…analyse with statistic app

Interesting.

This is super interesting. Gonna try tomorrow.

Doesn’t fire hurt the bow string 🤔

Use skinny (.166) arrows to make the target foam last longer. Maybe 3 to 4 years with over a thousand arrows; the thinner the arrow, the less damage to the foam target.

What is your draw length, draw weight, arrow weight and point weight? Just curious what the actual spine chart would call for on your setup and how far you deviated from the recommendation.

City Zoo 😮

Copy cat 😂

What brand string? How often if at all do you wax it? After that many arrows how often does it become necessary to twist the string? Move the peep ? Thanks

Id definitely like to see an adjustment video on this.

So say your sighted in how do u know when it’s time to group tune or merely adjust your sight

Group tuning and moving the rest doesn’t that take bow outta tune

I'm having a problem with the bcy string not mushrooming good

I'm just curious what you use the binos for while doing this??😂😂 Great video

What do you mean by Forgiving??

I didn’t notice a difference. Looked like all arrows were hitting left

What am i looking for in the way everything feels at full draw as it pertains to a dloop that is 1/2” versus a loop that is say an inch long

To sight in your top pin, why not just get an exact measurement from your two marks on the tape, then measure that same distance to set your top pin, since you've already sighted in the bottom pin? This should set your top pin perfectly at whatever the top mark was shot at. The distance between the bottom and top pin should be identical to the distance between the top and bottom marks that were created. You could always use the metal yardage tape as the measuring guide once you found the correct one that matched the 20 & 60 to the top and bottom marks. Hold the metal tape on the bottom pin with your hand, and move the top pin up to the 20 mark.

I didnt watch this for arrow weight choices.

Great job !

Great info and video, thanks for sharing.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 ok. 🤦‍♂️

A shoot along would be awesome!

Thank you!

🏹>>>>>>>🎯

Put up an affiliate link for the index tool. I need one

I really appreciate the videos you’ve put out. I’m always trying to learn more about tuning and shooting. Thank you

You look alike Chris Bee but a beefier version of him

I leave about 1/8" space.

I like the idea of keeping the effective brace height. Is a 9” bar preferred over 6” bar for this kind of tuning?

I really enjoy the content and look forward to more videos to continue to learn new things. Liked, subscribed, shared!

I’m definitely all for a shoot/adjustment video. I’ve never delved into group tuning much; only torque tuning.

On moving the rest, if your shooting an indoor game and your touching the 10 line. How much would you suggest starting with on moving the rest for the first time?

I love all the tuning and tips and tricks videos you do!

I'd love to see a longer video

Would love to see another video.

Liked , subscribed , shared to Facebook , hunting with some Q2i vanes . Thanks for the chance, Chris Sisson

Subbed

Great video.lots of work.

Just did this with my hunting bow…. Perfect hole at closest I could get to paper…. Straight right at 8 feet (worst tear) then still straight right at 12 feet but better than at 8 feet

Hey Gus! Great stuff! I’ve done this out to 60 (and sometimes 80) yds, moving back and forth from 1 arrow at 3 to 6 arrows at 60 yds. Tweaking my sight at the close distance every time on a piece of perfectly plumb 1” electrical tape. I shoot a BowTech; so I have the luxury to leave my rest at 13/16” and if I’m hitting left I tweak my cams slightly left which would mean I’m moving my rest right in essence. This only takes MICRO! adjustments to make a Major Effect! This is done after torque tuning and a perfect paper tune has been achieved; And, I promise your paper tune will not be the same after (for me slightly left - half shaft and slightly high - half shaft) but it doesn’t matter to me because it will be so much more forgiving. Some people call it walk-back 🤷🏽‍♂️ I call it tweaking your center shot! All I know is it really matters on the longer shots. This will work on Horizontal grouping as well but if you start with a good paper tear at 5 yds it doesn’t seem to be as critical as your vertical tune.

As always great info Angus :D

I would love to see you shoot but give us a voice over/commentary in post. Whether or not it's live or in post, I'd love to watch and learn.