The TRUTH About Stabilizers (You May Be Doing This Wrong)
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
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I'm only 15 and your videos are helping me with my bow hunting skills and what is necessary for my bow. I basically have the same hunting setup as up. Thanks Chris
Thanks for the info Chris, would love to see you shoot your bow in a long range situation with and without your stabilizer to see the difference in grouping.
Yeah, Very good question
Thanks for the teachings. I’ve been learning for past four years on my own just from watching videos like yours and others. I don’t have access to a club unless I travel 3.5 hrs away and they’re not available most times on the weekends. Archery isn’t very popular in my neck of the woods. Maybe a few guys who only hunt one month out of the year. So, I appreciate the time you put into the vids.
Chris, on your Phase4 you run your back bar straight out while on your target you have it at a 10-15 degree down angle
very well explained, I know very little about the technical side of setups, but I learned some new things.
Great breakdown. I learned some stuff for sure, especially about the back bar.
Great video Chris, this helped me a ton. I’m new to bow hunting and your videos are very helpful to me.
Love the videos Chris!! You do a great job of explaining these concepts. From an engineering background, this all makes a lot of sense. That equation is the basic sum of moments equation from physics. Basically the torque caused in the front has to equal the torque in the back to have a perfect balance. Same for left and right. From there it becomes feel or intentional bias. You shoulda been an engineer Chris lol
Gotta love that increased moment of inertia
Completely agree. When all of those physics classes help you understand many different aspects of archery. I use more of what i learned in my hobbies than i do at work 🤣😂
Solid content Chris!!! keep it coming 👍
Fire video brotha!
Been waiting on this one forever. Amazing
Great explanation Chris…..thank you.
What's the bows ?
What if u have no weights on the front bar? Jus the bar itself. How would u calculate that?
I bought a hour VTM 34 yesterday and have been trying to balance it. Still not happening. I don’t hav e front stabilizer because I have a garmin A1i pro on it and it is already front heavy. I have adjustable rear stabilizer, i have an 8 inch rod on it. Can the formula work using the metrics from my Garmin sight as well? That way I know what the to do with my rear stabilizer?
Opinion based off of a professional athlete 🤘🏻👌🏻 thank you bro!!
Thanks for the info, it helped
Hey Chris bee are you going to be at the cullman asap shoot this year
Love the videos!!!!🐝🐝
Anyone experience having too much weight on back bar causing a low paper tear?
Great video Chris
I've been playing with stabilizer placement on my PSE Brute force. I have read a past post on the science of front and back bars but have not seen anything on placement. I have a 10 inch front and 8 inch back bar.
I have my back bar mounted at the same height as my front bar, but as im watching this video and in most other videos, the back bar is mounted lower on the riser. Is there a preferred placement of the back bar? Do you get more stability when it's mounted lower on the riser than at the same level as the front stabilizer?
watch how levi morgan sets up his stabilizer
2:33 "that's what she said."
Got it so a stabilizer doesn’t help you shoot better… but helps you shoot better…
why don't they take into account the stick's own weight? an empty long stick is two and a half times heavier than an empty short stick
You didn't link George's video at the marl you said...just saying.
ruclips.net/video/r2kMSxXtyxk/видео.html
🎯🎯🎯
I wish there was a way to try different stabilizers or releases or things like that before you buy them
any decent shop will let you try any stab before you buy
You're going to shoot someone walking past that window.
With my V3, the bow without any stabilizers, front and back, is already well balanced. It is possible to hunt without stabilizers period and the effect on the shot without stabilizers is negligible in hunting situations. As a result, I simply shoot with a single rubber stabilizer "stacker" ball and really, that is only to hold my wrist strap on. I have hunted with a simple small bolt in the stabilizer bar hole once again to simply hold my wrist strap on the bow. Lugging around in the woods all that extra weight is pointless IMO. And lengthy stabilizers whether out the front or back has more potential to hurt you in the tree, whether in the saddle or stand than to help when you are making the shot. Thanks for sharing the tech info Chris. Very interesting and I learned some stuff today.
This.
I’ve watched countless videos on stabilisation and no one has ever explained the advantage of adding bias to the bow in a way that makes perfect sense. I’ve tried it for myself now and it’s a game changer. Thanks Chris.
Hi engineer here, a stabilizer works by increasing the bows moment of inertia which reduces abrupt movement. A longer stabilizer will show better results for the same weight. Also, your equation is literally the equation for torque: force x distance.
The only thing I differ on opinion to you is what you said early in the video. "A 12" inch bar with more weight does the same as a 15" bar". Not true, it's a completely different feel as adding more weight to a 12" bar is adding mass weight to the entire rig. This can be detrimental to your shooting.
this is sow trow
Thanks for the video Chris, I agree that stabilizers could be something that is overly complicated, when it shouldn't be. I also agree that a stabilizer won't fix bad form lol. I'm sure that the two stabilizer setup is really helpful in the elk woods when those long shots present themselves, archery elk hunting is primarily what I do so I may want to give that a try in the future.🤙🏽🐝
My man, you need to get to the critical information your are trying to convey in a quicker way. It’s hard to sit through these long winded explications. You could start this video at 5:26 and save lots of time.
Thanks. This video makes a lot of sense.
The point of a stabilizer is to compensate for the geometry issues created by the bow. In a perfect archery system, the archers hands would be in the centre of the bow, both at the nock and at the grip, creating a symmetrical spring with which to launch the arrow. Unfortunately this means that the arrow is going to have to go through the archer's hand. To avoid this, the grip is moved below the arrow, but this creates a point of pressure below the centreline of the bow which causes the bow to kick upwards on release. The stabilizer is there to counteract this kick and ensure that the arrow leaves cleanly without an upward kick affecting the flight of the arrow. Having a stabilizer sticking out the front of the bow creates a front-back imbalance, so having a rear stabilizer helps to correct this imbalance while enhancing the resistance of the bow to the upward kick.
So I have a 30” front bar with 0 weights on it.
I have a 12” back bar.
So 30x0/12=0???
So if I had 30”x2ounces/12=5ounces?
You seem to popular and busy to have time or me, but on the off chance… I’m brand new and I’m curious how much of a difference in accuracy your favorite set up has for you personally versus say with no stabilizer or just a short one up front. Have you tested that out at a specific distance?
I loved your explanation. Thanks for the tips
I see you use bowstring dampeners. Monkeys tail?
Can you write what model it is? Do you use any other limb samsaver and recommend them?
I sat in Blair Sandberg’s kitchen back in the spring of 2007 and he gave me a physics lesson on rotational torque and why designed the original b-stinger the way he did. It’s awesome to see that he innovatived the stabilizer and archery world and we are doing everything differently.
Chris why do you put your dampeners on the end of your weight stacks, surely that significantly reduces their effectiveness?
Good video Chris. George is the man! I love the way he approaches archery from a quantitative and mathematical equation! Catch you at TAC this year man!
Thanks for the information! Do stabilizers work differently if you are shooting from a treestand?
Stabilizers increase the rotational inertia of the entire bow rig. You lever mass as far from rotational center as reasonable to resist the tendency for rotation. They also assist with vibration diffusion after the shot lets loose.
I removed both 12 and 9 and now run a 5 arrow quivelizer and I shoot better. Loving it
Thanks for this vid. I haven't put a ton of thought into my stabilizers other than that "they should balance out the bow...right??" The side bias reducing chances of error makes a lot of sense. I will have to try kicking my back stabilizer out a little and see what it does for my consistency.
Hey, Chris.Just wondering what do you like to run up front for point weight on your arrows?
I didn't know about calculating how much was needed on the back bar, but I got the same thing by just feel. Pretty cool to confirm it.
I was today years old my bow likes to lean to the right and I have to tilt it the left to get my bow level and when I shoot and I follow through my bow it self dirfts left I never thought about why my bow goes that way but it makes sense now
You taught me something new thanks chris
Interesting video. I prefer shooting a short front rod (around 12") only. I don't shoot well with long rods (I have one and I have tried from time to time). The long rod moves the center of gravity far out from the bow, so the bow feels heavier. So I gets tired much sooner and thus shoots not good. In general I don't use back rods, sometimes, especially indoor I use a side rod that goes backwards, but I am not sure it makes much difference for me. :-) Not sure why I don't use the side rod for outdoor target - maybe I would if I had two bows, one for target archery and one for 3D (for 3D I use only the short front rod). Could try it though, since there is still a month or 3 weeks until the next 3D shoot - so I am practicing target archery from 30 m to 90 m. :-)
30 inch in the woods hunting deer would be hilarious 😂
Nice explanation. I've never seen that stabilizer/weight formula. I found it interesting. I think my hunting setup is similar to yours, in that I have more weight on the rear stabilizer than the formula indicates. But like you said, it feels good. I'm running the Shrewd Vantage 12" out front with one ounce and the 9" out back with three ounces on my Mathews V3X29. I am really liking this setup right now.
I have started looking more into stabilizers as I just got my first ever deer at 32 with my uncle's 30 year old bow he gave me long ago, and decided to get a flagship bow (Bowtech SR350) as I'd finally done his bow justice and gotten a harvest with it. I'm not sure how I feel about it all yet. I was able to pull off a Robinhood at 25 yards within my first month of practicing with his bow again (PSE Edge 1000C, it had been years since I'd shot it and I started working on my form to get back into archery), and the only stabilizer I had on it was a Trophy Ridge 8" dampener more or less. It was definitely much less forgiving, but it forced me into proper form for results. I'm of the mind that all the gadgets arent necessarily necessary so long as you pound correct form into your head and dont rush or take shots you shouldnt. You sorta touched on that with stripping all the weight off a new bow or new form but still. It just feels a little to foreign to the art of archery. But If I go down that rabbit hole too long I'll end up at bare bow archery and no one wants that x'D
That formula is a basic center of balance formula. College and High School physics and hundreds of other jobs use its concept all the time in equations. I used to plan cargo to go on aircraft and used it to determine were the aircraft will balance and if it's within acceptable location to allow the plane to fly properly. He may of brought it to the archery world, but he isn't the origin of the math. Archery is just one big gigantic physics class mixed with kinaesthetic.
Hey Chris, I just bought my first bow last weekend; that being said, would you think it would be advantageous for someone who is super green to archery to shoot without stabilizers for a while and try to focus on form and other things like good follow through?
I would , not everybody needs large stabilizer
I shot and hunted without one forever lol
I started without one then i started trying some out and i now run a 10” up front and a 8” off the side.. After testing over a dozen i found this was best for me. Yeah the bows heavier but im shooting much better
always shoot quiver and arrows on.. always
Were are the podcasts and very helpful
I have always thought that stabs are overpriced, but a necessary piece of equipment. If you shoot deer at 30 yards and in you probably don't need one. But they always help make the bow more stable for sure.
Awesome video Brother. All I have on my Diamond Triumph hunting setup is a 4 1/2 inch 4.5 ounce Limbsaver stabilizer. And the bow is still top heavy. What would you recommend doing to balance it a little more.
Been hunting for 30 years never shot with a stabilizer don't need one... killed plenty of deer out to 35 yards...most 20 yards or less.I also shoot fingers(Ted Nugent inspired) w a Compound.(I'm OldSchool).56 yrs.n still no need for a Crossbow even.JMO.
"Stiff rod"....ALWAYS necessary.
Huh huh....huh huh.
Seriously though, thanks for the info. Didn't know that much detail about stabilizers.
Shooting a new Mathews Phase 4. I installed my old Black Gold sight on, single pin with bubble level. Like my last Mathews my bubble always favors to the left. I must be canting the bow. Will a back stabilizer leaning out to the opposite side help in balancing. What set up would you recommend? Thanks!
Love it bro I always say there's so much stuff out there that don't make sense I mean there's some really far fetched things out there anymore Thank you for this video
You can tell griv has had ahold of you lol
Good info! When measuring your Stabilizers for that formula where do you measure from and to? Do you include the QD in the length? Measure to the weights or just the actual tube?
Remember, the formula is best used when you want to increase or decrease overall weight from the system. You should find where the bow shoots and holds best as fae as front and side bias go. Then if you want to keep that, but just add mass, use the formula.
Any time the stabilizers aren’t parallel (both vertically and horizontally) the formula will be off.
A big job of stabilizers is keeping the bow from moving when you release the arrow. In general, a front heavy system does this best.
🔥🔥🔥
Well put. Factional opinion is TruthDafacto. Your an expert you have hands on. You just witnessed to reading, now you give an truthful opinion on facts you know to be self evident. Cool how that works.
Saalute dig the shows and secretly in love with Hinge release. Cross my heart.
I still use trigger punch / Gen one release or semi traditional release Imp.
One day. New bowtech cp28 kitted out. Maybe not all bells and whistles but close to it.
Ok laters thank you.
My question is as you do the math, does the weight of your sight come into place or what’s your opinion….I’ve always wondered that….and I have a spot Hogg which is heavy that’s why I’m asking …thanks
Stabilizers work the best when you know they're working. It's a trial and error type of thing. I've been working with stabilizers for an excess of 30 years, and I'm always finding something that works just a little bit better. A little bit more. More weight on the back stabilizer then on the front one, and a front mounted bracket, not mounted way down low for the back bar like some people do. I don't like it set up that way at all, like how the gentleman in the video has his backbar mounted. It does not work at all for me.
If you can put a 12" rod on there and add a little extra weight to do the same thing as a 15" rod, then couldn't you put a 15" rod on the front and add a lot of extra weight and do the same thing as a 30" rod while still keeping your bow manageably smaller and quite a bit more compact in comparison?
The 30 inch stabs look ridiculous
I’ve shot 24 inch and 12 inch up front
Both shot the same
its much just thinking here , is it to absorb the shock ? then find out were the shock hits , it seems counter productive to have a back and forward stabelizer ,if youre just balace the front and back you just add weight , and that must not be the point ,
There are a lot of assumptions made here without any explanations as to why certain attributes are being employed. One example would be the use of low center of mass. Why does it have to be low? What if I told you that holding steady while aiming, and stabilizing the shot itself are two different requirements that have very different mathematical models?
Hunting rig, no stabilizer out front for me. My bow needs a short stabilizer out the back for balance. Having anything sticking out front on the bow to catch things as a still hunter is no bueno.
Hey fellas make sure your rod is stiff 😊😊😊😆. Chris Bee 🐝 doing good things 👍👍
Great video Chris, just watched the George Riles video. Excellent info. My question would be how to you know where to start with the length of your front stabilizer? It is a standard if you are a target shooter it's 30", if you are a hunter 12". Would love to hear your thoughts.
the bias stuff is interesting. wheres the ryals vid link
ruclips.net/video/r2kMSxXtyxk/видео.html
If I didn’t want to use a back bar would that handicap me in a hunting situation? Thanks 🙏
If your trying to create bias by offsetting the back stabilizer why not just remove both or one stabilizer and then you’ll have bias
That equation doesn’t factor in the length or weight of the sight and dovetail, and the difference in how the front bar offsets that sight and dovetail. Mathematically it’s definitely a rough estimate and is sort of a waste of time in my opinion
According to This formula I should be running 2 ounces more on my back bar, guess I will buy a a couple more weights for the back and see if it changes anything in my shooting. Great info
I always went for how the bow balances in your hand. If it pulls down, add more weight in the back. Or get a lighter front stabilizer. If it pulls up, take weight away from the back. Or get a heavier front stabilizer. Let me know if I've been incorrect in this deduction.
You said that you were adding a link to the George Riles information on stabilizers? Great info you provided, thanks. Always looking for new information to help me shoot better.
When you do the math for your bars should you include the length of the mounts? Like the quick detach off the front??
Thanks
I know it’s personal preference but how much weight do you run on your 30” and 12” bars for your TRX?
I always think of a tight rope walker with their long balance poles and how helpful it is to them when I think of target now stabilizers.
I love "the truth about" videos. Feel like I should put my tinfoil hat on every time 😅
I’ve been thinking about stabilizers.
This is some good insight. I should really just focus on my form as my setup is right now. Looks like another 200 arrows tomorrow of trying to figure it out lol.
A stabilizer doesn't fix your shot... ehh, I'm out... ;)
THIS is the best Stabz video ive ever seen ...... thanks Chris
Does this mean only having a forward stabilizer is pointless. Is back required if there’s a front?
Great lesson on stabilizers. You made it very simple.
I've moved from Matthews to Hoyt, best decision the last year couldn't be more happy
So the back bar shouldn’t make the bow balance left and right without having to apply bias with your grip?
If I could sit down in a room with Elon Musk I would definitely not waste his time like this reporter did.
you'd better hope nobody unexpectedly walks by your window...