INCREASE Your HOT WATER Capacity With This! (Cash Acme PRO Mixing Valve) | GOT2LEARN
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- Опубликовано: 10 май 2024
- Here's how you can effectively increase your water heater's output WITHOUT changing it, thanks to Cash Acme's Tank Booster!
Stuff I used in this video:
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3/4" Sharkbite flexible connector w/ valve: amzn.to/37DmaC0
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KNIPEX 8" wrench: amzn.to/3aLo711
Beginner's Guide To SHARKBITE Fittings: • Beginners Guide To SHA...
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Start - 0:00
What's their purpose - 0:26
Types of mixers - 1:28
How the mixer works (3D animation) - 3:02
How to install - 3:52
How to adjust - 5:40
Pros & cons - 6:21
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DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
i swear that it was your videos the ones i turned to when starting to mess with soldering my own copper pipes. Thank you very much!
Glad I could help!
As another commenter already mentioned, this type of mixing valve will require adjustment fairly often as seasons change, especially in the northern part of the country where the temperature of the cold water varies by a fairly large amount. I believe I saw a similar unit that incorporates a temperature sensing control for the mixing valve so once set it should maintain the desired 120°F output, similar to what some shower controls use.. I just can't remember where I saw it.
This product is actually very good. I've used it numerous times with thrilled customers. Great video!
Please try to say this to the non believers, my words don't work LOL
I always learn something to apply in your videos. thank you very much!
Happy to hear that, thanks Chris!
I have learned a great deal from your videos! Quick gripe, the amount of energy to heat up water is the same regardless of the temperature of the tank. Sure, the tank will lose its hot water slower, but you have to maintain it at a higher temperature to do that if you outlet temp is the same as before the modification. I would not do this modification expecting to see any gains in energy efficiency, but it would increase the effective capacity of your tank. Thanks for demonstrating this product, my wife empties our tank after every shower!
👌👌👌
It will reduce efficiency because the piping and tank will radiate more heat
Wrong, the temperature inside the tank is higher and the losses get greater with the increased temperature due to the temperature differential, were you even paying attention? Insulation is not a end all catch all, the inside and outside temperatures matter tremendously.
@@tslim250 Who are you claiming "wrong" to? I did not make any claim about it making the system more or less efficient, I simply said "I wouldnt do this expecting a gain in efficiency", and Jarrett's claim is actually correct about a higher temperature making the system less efficient (which is precisely what you said).
Another great vid!!!! Man thanks a lot for sharing all of these super handy and interesting information!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
🤗🤗🤗
Great Videos! Keep up the good work. Please Note: one must look at the spec sheets to find the minimum flow rate to determine if the tempering valve meets their needs at a small faucet - The Cash ACME valve min flow rate is 1gpm (4 L/min) which in my case is twice what the hot tap in my bathroom faucet puts out, therefore I would likely want to install something like a Watts LFUSG-B under that sink which specs minimum flow rate of 0.5gpm (2.2 lpm).
awesome production as always
Appreciate it!
6:56 keep in mind that systems that reduce water temperature will have less scaling. So if you have hard water, you should prevent to increase your tank temperature. The picture shows calcification, not legionella.
Always great information watching from Trinidad and Tobago
Awesome! Thank you!
I’m in Jamaica 🇯🇲
I have an external heat pump water heater. The down side is slower recovery, but with increased energy savings.
I've wanted to install a tempering valve for some time, but haven't gotten around to it.
This "all in one" device seems to be the better solution.
Having a heat pump water heater negated the additional heat loss setting the tank temperature higher.
Objects radiate heat in proportion to the 4th power of its temperature difference. So the hotter the water a lot more energy is required to maintain temperature. The logic is the same with insulation. So while you get more volume of hotwater much more energy is needed. I’m glad you covered it at the end.
Just a nitpick, but for conduction/insulation it is with 1st power, not 4th. q=-kdT
Insulation radiates too, but in those temp. range conduction and convection is main source of heat loss.
It seems those are much more common over here in Europe.
I install 3-5 of them (mechanical ones) every year, with several justifications:
- For elderly people, or very young ones so they don't get burn (both have a slower reaction time to burning sensation compared to adults)
- In most of the restaurants and hotel, so that they comply to legionella regulations, and so that their customers never get water above 50°C
- With smaller "intelligent" water heaters that heat water up to 75°C to produce as much hot water as promised in the advertising.
- On all the solar systems, that can produce extremely hot water during summer.
Thanks for the video.
Awesome, thanks!!!
Useful in not only home but commercial use. As in hot water for dish sanitizers in restaurants. That fixture is always going with high demand. Cool.
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@@Got2Learn We've installed 100gal Sandblasters with mixers for almost constant sustained temp, but you're right. This set up is quite efficient for budget minded situations.
I had one of these on my 40 gallon hot water heater. I cranked the tank temp all the way to 150 degrees. It definitely increased my hot water capacity by around 40%. Didn't notice too much of an increase in standby loss, but the extra hot water was worth it, as the space would not allow for a larger water heater. It's worth the money if you need more hot water
Good to hear, thanks for sharing 🤘
Did your bills increase, stay the same, or decrease?
Increase.
Interesting and very well explained as per normal here on your channel.
Glad you think so, thank you so much!
Nice detail 👍👍
I had to deal with mixing vales while I was a director for the YMCA. Constantly needed adjusting or replacement.
I installed a circulation system several years ago that pumps my hot water thru the system every 5 minutes. You have your choice how often you want to pump to kick on being it’s an adjustable setting. To work correctly this system also connects into the cold water too! Now our hot water is always hot moment you turn on the hot water rather than having to let the hot water run for 5 minutes till it finally gets hot! Unfortunately though, being this is connected to the cold water side, when you turn on your cold water the water will be warm for a short period of time till it gets cold again. For us it’s not a big deal to have the cold water on the warm side when we first turn it on. The benefit of having hot water immediately on the hot water side out weighs a little warm water on the cold side! But you can also install a small hot water tank under your sink to help with having hot water quicker too! I went with this circulation system cause I got a super great deal on the system and it was easily installed myself since I’m a contractor by trade and have done all kinds of different projects throughout a home.
Great video ! Very well done sir, Thank you and God Bless ! !
🤗🤗🤗
Dude your videos are so good and well filmed. Very thorough, you explain every details so well. It is so triggering that you push sharkbites to home owners specifically. I can't stand it
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the informative video.
Now if the Jack Asses @ Beacon Plumbing, in Seattle would take note and watch it, and then share/teach with customers. 🤷♂️
I have never used this particular product, however I have installed tempering valves (sometimes called mixing valves) to do exactly the same thing. Cash-Acme makes a few of them, as does Watts. Question: conventional tempering valves must be trapped: plumbed 6-12 inches below the top of the tank so hot water doesn't rise into the unit when not in use. Apparently the little thermal motor can be damaged over time if not kept cooler.
Is there something different about THIS valve? Obviously is IS designed to sit right on top, where it will be exposed to very hot water all the time.
Great series of videos! I'm retired now but still do lots of work for the neighbourhood. You're never too old to learn new things! Greetings from Canada.
I just installed it how they asked for it, so must be ok hehe, greetings 🤗
Great information! I learned a lot from this video. 👍✅💧
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent video. Will have to look into this
Yes, if you have limited hot water, this will most definitely help.
Watching from Puerto Rico! Love your videos man !
Thanks for watching, don't forget to share if you can, helps a bunch :)))
another great video... it's definitely an interesting way to get more hot water out of the heater. I may try to install one at my house since we can easily exceed my water heater capacity but don't have the electrical service to support a tankless heater and don't have the space for a larger water heater tank
Let us know how it works out, cheers 👌
Come back when your hot water heater dies because of this!
@@keyworksales6241 ?
@@keyworksales6241 why would it die?
This is particularly useful on off peak water heating systems.
Those are still a thing? My power company ended that program like ten years ago. I ripped out more of them than I fixed.
@@jman0870 Had mine for 32 years, no problems and pay about 25% of the full rate. Why rip anything out? If the electric company ends it, the water heaters will just operate on demand and everything is in place if they resume the program. I also have dual fuel heating with my ground source heat pump. That operates at about half price.
@@jman0870 Have had mine for 32 years with no problems and pay 25% of the full rate. Why rip them out? If the electric company ends the program they will just work on demand. I also have dual fuel heating with a ground source heat pump at about 50% of the full rate.
@@trustme7731 because they were 30 years old? Who wants to keep a 30 year old tank of skanky water in their basement? Most of them were rubber lined foam insulated giant tubs of water that used water heater elements to heat it at night. Also, why would you run dual fuel with a geo?
@@jman0870 Why do you think the water is skanky in an operating water heater? New water enters every time hot water is run. Water heaters are not rubber lined. They are coated steal. Some are plastic.
I have a dual fuel plan with the electric utility. This means when the utility is close to peaking they can turn my heat pump off and I need to use a second heating source. Usually gas, but I use wood. In return for this, they give me half priced electric for the heat pump 100% of the time. They will turn it off when its cold, like 10 or 15 degrees and when people are arriving home and demand is rising. Its usually from 4pm, if it really cold, to about 9pm and then the heat pump comes back on.
The heat pump also heats my domestic hot water in both tanks every time it runs, whether heating or cooling. Both my 65 gallon tanks are 32 years old and work fine because they are a high quality product that you can only buy from a wholesale plumbing supply house. The water heaters in the big box stores are crap and you are lucky to get 8 years out f them.
Excellent idea
That’s really awesome didn’t even know that was a thing it’s like a mod but for a water tank.
Yeah, just missing the neons under the tank and your all set 😉
That water tank on the intro is a great excuse for going tankless.
Not to mention infinite showers
Great information!
🤗
So what’s the difference btw this mixing valve and the contemporary ones that are normally installed (watts, other cash acme, etc)?
can you explain all kind of '' cartouche '' like belanger, moen? best brands. how to do it . ty
Did not know that the newer water heaters put more insulation. That explains the frustrating issues I had trying to find one that would fit when I needed to replace one.
Persicely.
Thank the feds. No thought whatsoever put into water heater replacement. I put heaters in many older condos space in the mechanical room can be quite limited to say the least
That makes sense now. We had to install a new water heater and had to go smaller than the original so I guess it was the insulation deal. Now we run out of hot water if one person stays in the shower too long. I figured we were stuck with the situation as tearing up a wall is not something I want to pay for (plus we already bought the tank at this point). This sounds like the fix we need.
Yeah, sure worth a try!
Mixing valve doesn’t make more hot water, it won’t help if someone stays in the shower longer.
@@danlux4954 Did you watch the video?
@@Gunshinzero yes, I have heating/DHW systems running mixing valves. Even if you run it hotter the water coming into the tank is still cold and makes the whole tank lukewarm.
@@danlux4954 *facepalm*
The water coming into every tank is "cold". If that mattered there'd be no such thing as a water heater. The mixing valve changes absolutely nothing about how the tank works. The water is mixed at the outlet. That means for every bit of water coming from the tank there is percentage coming through the mixing valve. Only a certain amount of water can pass through the pipe at any given time so if up to half the volume is from the inlet through the valve instead of the tank then it will take up to twice as long to cycle the tank. Therefore you have a tank that's at least 20 degrees hotter than normal with a flow rate that's as low as 50% which equals a longer hot water run time.
Edit: Look at 2:57
cool video! but i think i found a disadvantage to this, especially if you using a hybrid water heater and have a recirc pump. when your recirc pump kicks on, you'll actually recirculate the now 120 degree water thru the plumbing system and after it gets back to the water heater, it will be around 110 degrees, the water heater will lower tank sensor will see this colder return temp (compared to the 140F going out the top tank) and cycle the water heater more often. my house has a return in the slab in texas (common), also according to the chart, my inlet water temps are about 10 degrees lower than what that chart says.
I wonder how that works because you will technically be recirculating *more* water into the tank than what came out of it, right? That doesn't sound right though but it doesn't work otherwise, I think.
@@chaos.corner look up how a recirculation pump works :)
@@morejelloplease So what am I missing? The recirc pump takes water from the hot supply, pushes it out to the faucets and returns it to the tank. But this device adds water from the cold supply. So the only way for the extra water to go is back down the cold supply? That doesn't sound good.
@@morejelloplease Mind you, I believe there are also ones that don't have a return line and push the hot water back through the cold supply. Though I think that's a bit dodgy too.
Most water heaters made today have upper and lower thermostats make sure you adjust both thermostats to 140 degrees
Yes, 100%
Your an idiot if you do that. That’s a way to ware out your wh faster or creat a bomb
@@ericb8867 Do what, I don't get it?
I have never seen 2 stats on a water heater.
@@ericb8867 who told you this? If you cap off the relief valve maybe a bomb but not from adjusting the thermostats both on 140.
Both upper and bottom should be set the same temp too btw.
Edit; I once went to a customer’s house who capped off his relief valve because it was leaking, he told me on the phone and the water heater was swelling up. I told him he shouldn’t have done that and to open the hot water anywhere in the house and turn the power off to the w/h asap. When I arrived the fire department was there because minutes after we hung up it blew up. Never ever plug the relief or pop-off valve.
Awesome video 📹 👏 👌
Thanks bro!!! 🐕
In my own experience, you can just jack up the temperature of your hot water tank and yes, pay more for it, but you end up using less as you end up mixing more cold water to reach your desired temperature. Problem is, to use it practically, you will forget and burn yourself when doing the dishes, having a shower etc. This is a MUCH safer alternative! Thanks a bunch, I’ll keep it in mind!
This may violate your home owners policy. Water temperatures at the faucet that are greater then 120 degrees can cause burns very quickly.
Reduces the life of the tank
Great video, can you please consider doing one about expansion tanks?
Yes i'll try to add that to my agenda ;)
Can you do a video on low water pressure and installing a water pressure booster
It won't work. I bet you have galvanized line from the house to the water meter
to your last point about costing more to run. what if you have a newer tank with the larger insulation etc. or adding an insulation blanket?
you have a recommendation for a 1" mixer setup? the Cash Acme is only 3/4. I need 1"
And now it’s time for the follow on video that uses the Watts hot water recirculating system with this Cash Acme mixing valve.
ha, i just left a comment similar, now add a hybrid water heater to the mix lol
Wow, us must be behind on everything. This mixing valvenis standard stuff in sweden since... 20 years or more
Also, internally in the hot water tank, new cold water is entered in the bottom, preventing it from beeing mixed with the hot water at the top, ie keeping the boundry layer intact preserving the heated water.
Come on guys
Btw your videos are awesome!
That's interesting! Here these are options hehe...
All North American water heaters have dip tubes dude. 🙄
I use a drain water heat recover pipe on my drain stack under the bathroom stack to preheat the cold water coming in.
Works?
@@Got2Learn very well. Waste water preheat the cold water coming in. www.energy.gov/energysaver/water-heating/drain-water-heat-recovery
@@Got2Learn been using for 12 years or so. Never run out of hot water. Works very well, passive, and maintenance free.
I would love to learn how to instal this in school! what is the materials list like? Could I theoretically make something out of scrap copper?
@@jeadoretu I bought it pre-made. Plumber put it in. Clamps on top and bottom. Use an adapter to connect the pex lines. You could probably make one. Some videos on diy drain water heat recovery pipes on RUclips.
Any person who can solder copper pipe can install a 3/4" temper valve at their water heater .I recommend the #1070 which limits the max temp at 120 degrees F . Some dishwasher manufacturers recommend 135 F for sanitizing . Be careful .
It’s why I love my oil fired boiler. Tank is at 160deg and uses a in boiler fin and a mix valve…… ever take a shower and NEVER run out of hot water? Yup even when it’s -20 outside.
Did you say the only turn the top thermostat up to 140 leaving lower thermostat at 120?
No, both.
I would absolutely install external checks,as these built in check valves rarely have longevity.ive seen them fail time and time again
I cut mine out. Works amazing now. Less energy used to heat
I have two hotwater tanks that are in my basement. One for the basement and main floor, and the second for the second floor. One of the ways to save the consumer money is to install some water heat traps. What are those???
A law of physics. Warm water in a container rises to the top, cold water sinks to the bottom.
With the tanks in the basement, convection will cause the warm water to rise in the plumbing to any connection made above the hotwater tank, and the cool water in that plumbing, to gravitate to the bottom of the tank.
Our tanks come with 3/4 inch connections. What I do for each tank is to connect the tank to the house plumbing with a 18-24 inch stainless steel braided coupling (similar kind to what is used under sinks).
I make certain that hot water, on leaving the pipe, has to flow down, before it flows up. I have made an s-curve with that connection. I do it for both the hot and cold connections that enter the tank from the top. I loosly insulate both s curves with some fibreglass.
The trap works as follows. The less-dense hot water from the tank migrates up to the peak of the S curve, and then does not migrate down to displace the more dense cooler water that woud go around and up into the house. Below the peak of the S curve on the house side is more dense colder water. The same applies to the city water input connection.
In many jurisdictions, hot water is provided by electricity or gas. If you think of the tank connections losing hot water to the building some 24x7 then you can be assured that your cost for the two flexible connections will be paid for in the first year.
By the way, my insurance company wants the tanks checked for potential leaks every ten years. At that time, I also check the flex hose connections.
I save about $50/yr per tank or more $$$ based on my electrical rates. If the tank fails, I can replace the tank without unsoldering/resoldering connections.
Leslie Satenstein
More about the tanks. They are two "Cascade 60" glass lined foam insulated hot-water tanks each with three heater elements therein.
Each tank is connected to a 220 volt supply via it's own dual 15amp breaker box located at the tank. From my experience, even with annual tank flushing for the calcium sediment that collects, no tank lasts more than 20 years.
And yes, the hot water from the tank does not creap up the connected plumbing to the floors above.
How well do they stad up to hard water? Very informative vid!
Like any other component, not well, i'd suggest getting a good water softener if you have hard water, good investment 👌
Awesome video. Witch question though - will my electric bill go up a lot vs waiting to for got water? Got family of 4 and do like loooooong showers..
Yes it will go up, by how much though? Hard to tell hehe, but it'll go up for sure.
Very well done video! I have one question. Why does the circulation pump need to “T” and go into the mixing valve (R) vs. just go into the cold inlet supply “T” ? Is there a benefit?
Yeah, I have no idea, must be an engineering thing 😅
It actually should go into the cold inlet as not to interfere with hot water outlet
I would only add that if they are installed the likelihood of a relief valve opening is much greater and a potable water expansion tank may need to be installed
That is a great note. An expansion tank is code where I am, but my house is 25 years old and doesn't have one yet.
An expansion tank is only required if expanding hot water has nowhere to go. If your house has a pressure reducing valve at the point of entry then yes, heating water will drive the pressure up to the point where your T&P valve will open.
If you're on a well, as I am, your main pressure tank absorbs the expanding hot water. No additional expansion tank is needed.
It all depends on the individual circumstances. The Code does not have a one-size-fits -all rule about this.
@@paulmaxwell8851 valid point regarding a well.
Great video without a doubt but I don’t know why would you install a mixing valve in each fixture which Plumbers do such thing, And what would be the reason.
Thanks, the reason being would be that you can control them individually instead of adjusting the whole house, there's also a question of redundancy I suppose, so if one breaks, the others will keep working as opposed to the one on the tank.
Here in Arizona, there's no such thing as cold water from May to Sept. Hot water comes from both sides of the tap. But this could be useful during our winters.
Hehe, thanks funny to hear, but sad at the same time LOL
Ugh THAT would suck!!! I love taking cold showers in the hot humid summers here in Missouri. Couldn't imagine only having hot.....and hot.
@@Jtzkb right?
How warm does your cold water get? I wonder how deep you would need to bury a cistern to keep it cool enough.
@@michaellewis6569 I've never taken the temp but it's warm enough to turn off the hot water heater all summer and shower with water only from the "cold" side. If I had to guess, I'd say high 80s.
Since there's little chance of freezing a pipe where I am, there's little incentive for builders to bury pipes deeper than code mandates. In places like Flagstaff, they have plenty of cold water.
If I wanted cold water, I'd bury a cistern so the top of it was at least 10 feet underground. But, how deep are the pipes from the water source, that are leading to that cistern? Not 10 feet. So that water is also warm or even hot. We just live with it.
You will get bacterial proliferation of all associated pipework as outlet temperature has to be 50c plus but you show it at 49c of all pipework as a mixer valve has to be within 2m of the mixing point as per acop l8 and hsg 274 in the UK 🇬🇧
Do you not have chlorinated water?
@@ergosum5260 yes but you will fine bacterial proliferation in anything but is active mainly between 20-50c with prime temp being 37c (body temperature) if you have tmvs they should also be within 2m of ANY outlet so a centralised mixer/tmv is a massive no no 👍
Completely different rules in the U.S. and Canada. Some mixing valves are specifically approved for installation at the fixture, and some are approved as a whole-house unit, to be installed at the tank.
Canada's National Plumbing Code requires all electric hot water tanks to be set at 60C to prevent legionella growth. Strangely, this rule does not apply to tanks using other sources of heat. There is no requirement that hot water exit the fixture at 50C or 60C. The scalding of children and the elderly is considered a much bigger problem.
Great stuff! A tankless (on demand) water heater solved our capacity issue, but created a new problem that might be worthy of one of your videos.
Our water is quite hard @ 16.7 gpg (238 mg/l). Our fixtures showed signs of scaling but no discernible drop in pressure over the 16 years that the original hot water tank was in use.
Within 2 years of installing the tankless unit our water pressure at most fixtures had declined significantly (i.e., barely enough flow to activate the tankless burner).
My conclusion: The old tank provided a place for much of the hardness minerals to drop out, where they could be periodically dissolved with injected vinegar and flushed from the tank through the drain valve. The tankless has no such place for those minerals to drop out so instead they settle in plumbing loops, other low points, and aerators.
Solution: I installed a water softener and pre-filter. Immediately before installing the softener, I also pumped vinegar into all of the plumbing lines (during my annual tankless flush) to clear the mineral blockages and restore flow. (P.S. - I thought it best NOT to run the vinegar through the softener media.)
Yes, tankless heaters need to be maintained every year, or even better, twice with the vinegar solution as you mentioned. The mixing valve also needs maintenance such as cleaning out the strainers, but can go a while without it being done, cheers Ron!
Tanks alot!
You mean Tanks a lot. (a lot is two words)
The problem I have with the mechanical mixing valve is the fact that the cold water temperature where I live changes widely between summer and winter. If you’re worried about scalding then you may have to adjust the valve multiple times a year. Otherwise your hot water my be either too hot or too cold depending on if it’s summer or winter.
What I want is an automatic, self contained, mixing control valve.
Get one with a temp sensing element and it will auto compensate ;)
Thank you Sir.
Welcome!
Thanks ive been looking to increase hot water’ What About maintenance though. Does the valve need frequent service just one in a while ? Since the elements are always in use will they have to be replaced more frequently? Thanks again for the info
You might see a difference in the life of the tank and tank components, but it'll be minor, and no, no need to maintain but if you want you could undo it and clean the screens (strainers) for a quick cleanup.
Ok then i’m for sure getting one. Thanks from Cleveland Ohio👌🙌
Thanks G2L for another informative video. I have a pic of a hillbilly plumbing fitting that would make you laugh. How do I get it to you?
Send it to me on Facebook: www.facebook/got2learn
Great video!!! You are awesome. QUESTION: do you have a video on increasing the water pressure in my home. Thanks!
Thanks!! Do you have a pressure regulator at home?
@@Got2Learn I do not... my community is connected to a series of wells that feed many homes, so pressure varies a lot. I wanted a system that would maybe use a tank and pump to increase...
@@303Estates You must have a pressure tank somewhere right? You can adjust those to buildup more pressure.
@@Got2Learn I have a pressure tank on my Propane Boiler, but not sure that would increase my overall water pressure in my home. If you have an email address, I could send you a picture of how my water pressure tank is installed...
That's an expansion tank, you need a pressure tank, they are typically blue tanks near your main water line.
Just glad you never said" hot water heater". Gotta save that for the Springer show. I have never heated hot water, always cold water. I think people with vin numbers, and pin numbers, have hot water heaters. I checked with the Federal FBI, the USMC corps, and the ATF firearms on this one.
And the old reliable ATM machine....Glad I'm not the only one!
Right on. I’m always telling people this. I only have a cold water heater in my house.
@Dani Masterson I have a tankless water heater, I only heat up cold water. Even if it is hot, in a tank, why would some one heat up water that is already hot, the thermostat won't let that occur.
The images in the first part of the video including the law quoted say "hot water heater"
@@mrwp819300 Ok, missed that one. It may be one to share with the C.I. A. agengy.
Hi G2L. This info comes at perfect timing for me. Will be replacing old 75gal gas water heater. Do you have a particular heater brand to recommend perhaps? Thanks in advance. 👽
Yes, Bradford White are my personal favorite, thank you so much!
@@Got2Learn Much appreciated! Great content as always.
I concur on Bradford White. I have rental properties and that’s the only brand I use.
About five years ago I had bought a foreclosed property from a bank, and it had an old Bradford White water heater. And it wasn’t leaking at time of purchase, but did develop a leak. I wanted to start a warranty claim, and I tried to look up the the serial number but it could not be looked up on their website; so I then contacted Bradford White to start a warranty claim; turns out that the unit was so old it was way beyond warranty, that was why the serial number could not be looked up on their website.
I always had my 40gal water heater set to 135deg and on cold winter nites when I took a long hot shower, I would start to run out of hot water at the end. I turned my water heater thermostat up to 160deg, and now I never run out of hot water. Isn't this the same thing as you are describing? I'm really not understanding why these units are selling; could it be the safety issue? I mean, you could, on my system now, burn yourself if you simply turn the hot water faucet on and let it run to full 160deg (which we never do).
Can one of those electric boosters be used at a fixture? Our kitchen is on the opposite end of the house from the water heater, and it can take a few minutes for hot water to actually reach the faucet. This is compared to the bathroom directly above the water heater, where hot water comes out almost immediately.
Yup!!
Great video, glad someone actually talks about this, I have a guess you would called it a "ghetto mixing valve" we found out after buying the house, it's hard piped in. Either way it's very similar, one problem I've noticed when flushing toilets or really any cold water usage you instantly get super hot water so please keep this in mind if you're thinking about doing something like this, also this could be just how my house is plumbed. But there could be an issue arise where when you use hot water somewhere else you'll lose all hot water while showering. He's correct about using more energy as well. You'll use about 20-30% more so keep this in mind in the long run measure your area and just get a bigger tank or go tankless because at the end of the day going this route will cost more.
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Or you just use a thermostatic mixing valve so the temperature is regulated.
By chance, can those mixing valves be mounted horizontally? By the looks of those, and the connections, appears they need approx a 12 to 18 inch long additional area to mount them if only vertical installation is allowed for the valve to properly function?
Yes they can!
@@Got2Learn Out standing... I will further investigate this avenue... A long shower on an 80 gallon tank, just never seems long enough.. I want my fingers and toes to wrinkle up like I had been in the pool for 8 hours.. Maybe the longer shower time will help with the lower back inflammation... Thank you..
@@drubradley8821 absolutely!! 👌🤘
Does this remove the need for an expansion tank?
I was thinking about getting some pex rolls and keep them coiled and put them in my attic. While dormant, they'll heat up and I can use that as an input to the water heater!
Or the roof heck!
@@Got2Learn would UV be a problem for pex?
@@michaellewis6569 Pex is not designed to be exposed to sunlight. BUT.....I have used Pex outdoors and it is amazingly durable stuff. I use it for garden cloches, garden irrigation lines etc.
@@michaellewis6569 there are different types, some are uv stabilized
Hey how do you like those knipex pliers?
They are quite nice, but I prefer the Cobras without the locking mechanism.
Do you have video for connecting a square cut galvanized iron pipe end to any other kind potable plumbing pipe?
Yes right here, towards the end: ruclips.net/video/dD-Qem26i6s/видео.html
@@Got2Learn I did end up using a dresser coupling (threader wouldn’t fit). I’m just a general was hoping for some unknown magic solution. You’re a damned fine plumber and I enjoy your content!
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So if I go from an 80 gal to 50 gal, with a tank booster, I should save some money monthly wouldn’t you think?
Shouldn't there be dielectric connections on your tank, or are they not a necessary item? Nice informative vid, thanks.
Those silver stubs on the tank at the cold and hot water lines are dielectric nipples. They are plastic inside.
@@mannys9130 But shouldn't there be a dielectric union to isolate the copper pipe from the nipple?
To clarify this guys, this is the reason why there are 2x "brass" female adapters and not "copper". Brass is way more resistant to galvanic corrosion and are ok to use. I also mentioned using dielectric unions as some states require them for earthquake protection and they are also good at stop any galvanic corrosion.
@@Got2Learn Thanks G2L! that's good info to have for next time I work on my water tank.
@@gnic76 🤗🤗🤗
Love your videos! Animations are awesome! I would recommend more pauses in the video for the text screens as I find myself pausing the video to read it while listening to you. Otherwise, amazing tips and looking forward to the next 📷📸!!
Thank you soooo much, thanks for letting me know!! 🤗🤗🤗
I would love to see a segment on radiant floor heating. I'm curious if you did a radiant floor driveway in a snowy area like Buffalo NY if it would work to keep the driveway clear? Thanks! Great channel. I'm learning a lot from it
It would 100% work. All new residential buildings we put up in Calgary have them now.
@@Ease2k6 Thanks for the info! Sounds like a great thing to have in a snowy area. No snow shovel? That's the way to go it sounds like!
I think I got had by the "more efficiency" thing. I replaced the W/H when I bought my new house, and I noticed after the install that it looked like the plumber had stuffed it in there. It barely fit. Anyways, it lasted 20 years, then died, and I replaced it with a tankless. Fits nice now.
Have fun replacing that tankless in ten years or less. If it doesn’t scale up it will cost too much to fix. Half the time they result in a ridiculously long call with tech support. You know how long it takes me to troubleshoot any issue with an electric water heater? Fifteen minutes. If the elements aren’t galled and the drain isn’t clogged I can fix any electric water heater issue in an hour or less with parts off the truck. Tankless issues? Have fun waiting a week or two with no hot water for parts to come in. They redesign them constantly and companies typically only need to support their equipment for ten years. Tankless is a joke.
i'm very tankful for this tank full of knowledge lol
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I agree that this device can potentially address the need to replace a smaller heater with a larger heater. However, as mentioned in the video by running the tank at a higher temperature, the differential temperature (∆T) between the tank and surrounding environment is increased leading to increased heat loss and therefore reduced efficiency. The additional insulation on newer tanks addresses this somewhat but in reality if a tank sits all day and most of the night waiting for folks to get home it will cost more to operate. As with all things, there are many considerations before making a decision on "improvements". Good video, Cheers....
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Can these be installed on a mobile home water heater? Cold inlet is on the side rather than the top...
Yes, page 9 at the bottom: www.cashacme.ca/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Tank-Booster-Installation-Instructions-01.2019.pdf
It adds capacity, but reduces your efficiency. A hotter tank will have more standby losses.
The capacity will be greater than the losses from the differential in this case, totally agree with you Jeff 👌
Additionally, the life of the water heater will be diminished by the overwork it does.
@@Efferheim nothing is free! 🤷♂️
@@Got2Learn definitely not $1500 water heaters either. Go away with your petulant money wastin'
@@keyworksales6241 ?
What about a whole house booster? I was gonna buy a Gunfos one here in Ontario Canada but it costs 890 bucks plus tx. is there a cheaper way to boost house pressure. i have a tankless installed, so also will it work?
These do not affect pressure, only temperature ;)
Bought and installed a Grundfos booster for my buddy. Worth the money if you need the pressure boost. Will work with tankless. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@lrc87290 Thx for the reply. Cheers!
Have a back up TPR valve if your tank is old cause it’s gonna leak if you relieve the pressure from there. & cranking the hot water shortens the life of your tank so you’ll be replacing it more frequently 🤷🏿♂️
Have been compulsory install for last 20 years in Australia. As a safety device for children and elderly as they start to lose sensation in fingers and hands
Was just thinking it's funny how these aren't a legal requirement in the US when we have been installing them for like 20 years
The problem in Australia, the regulation requires 50 degrees output at the closes tap.
So water never hotter enough on the further taps.
I really enjoy your videos, Thanks!
I live in Scandianavia and up here this has been a default feature for decades. I have not seen a water-heater without a built-in mixing valve since early 1980's. :) I run the tank at 170F (75 C) and the outlet at 45C (113F). These are default values from the manufacturer (OSO Hotwater).
Once a year I crank the mixer to max (65C) and flush my pipes for 2 minutes with really hot water to clear any bacteria from the pipes/faucets.
Any cons to this method that you can see? I have a mix of copper and PEX piping.
I'm in South Africa. Where can one buy these hot water booster?
Online
Excellente présentation. Parler en degrés Celsius serait encore mieux.
Oui, je dit en F a cause que plus de 50% de mes viewers sont au E.U hehe, mais oui, la prochaine fois ;)
nice go through
Thanks brother 🤗🤗🤗
7:05 Isn't the legionella temperature requirement for communities only?
Negative.
In my and other European countries, there is a regulation for risk buildings like hospitals, swimming pools and residential care. There is not enough scientific evidence for risks in private homes.
I have an old water heater. Gas. In the summer, it doesn't even get me over the minimum gas bill. In the winter, not sure but I doubt it's much more. The heater only kicks on when someone is taking a bath or we're running the dishwasher. Can't see the advantage of adapting my tank.
Besides operating costs, why is this any better than having a recirc pump going?
Or why would I want this used in conjunction with the pump?
You don't need to install a line from the tank to the furthest fixture, there's no electrical work involved and there's probably other pros but can't think of them right now LOL.
Different application.
better off doing a recirc pump. I have a 2 story and had to run my water for 1-2min to get HOT water for a shower (because of a pre- mixing valve installed)
Disabled mixing valve and i get hot water in less than 15 seconds now. and i MIX myself with taps, how we were taught to do.
Running out of hot water? When was last time you checked your tanks dip tube, anoid & did a tank flush with proper fittings?
A recirc line won't increase your hot water output, it'll make decrease the time waited for the hot water to arrive at the tap.
Dose this help for scalding as well ?
Yup
@@Got2Learn thanks
Is that not just a tempering valve ?
Standard practice on all hwc’s in nz?
Here in NA these aren't standard, maybe one day hehe...
It is exactly that, it's supposed to be on every tank here in Canada too but rarely happens
@@MrDmadness if you’re too irresponsible to have 140 degree water at the faucet you are probably too irresponsible to be an adult 🙄
@@jman0870 it's about code practices, theyvare in place for safety of children and elderly. I agree with you to some degree but I'm not taking lessons from a non ticketed person while I hold a red seal, respectfully intended
@@MrDmadness there was a time where everyone’s hot water was 180 degrees. I always set them for 120 and showed the customer how to adjust as they wish, made them sign a scalding waiver, and rolled out 🤷♂️
can these mixing valves fail to where they would allow the 140 degree water through?
I don't know at 100%, but I would say yes.
I'm getting one!!! I've notice our family of 5 using/running out of a lot more hot water with everyone home due to COVID
Good idea, this will certainly help!
gordon after you do it can you tell me if it worked and everyone gets hot water all day now ???? how much longer it last stuff like that
They have their own problems.
@Canuck Inoz It's misleading to say "instant" because it's more like "on demand." There is a slight delay. Let's say you take a shower, get out, and 15 minutes later another person gets in. They'll have hot water, then an unexpected sudden burst of luke warm or cold, and then very hot water. Sometimes piping is too small for an on-demand heater and needs to be upgraded. It's not as simple as just pulling out a tank, and putting in a wall mounted on-demand heater expecting endless hot water that comes on immediately and has no lulls or delays. Gotta go case by case.