This video describes the features and benefits of Tank Booster and the correct installation procedures allowing more useable hot water in your household.
I have one of these on my boat with a new marine water heater. The boat's water heater is heated up by either 120v shore power, or by the engine's cooling system with a heat exchanger. Water temps can get to 180f with the engine running. These valves keep you from going to the hospital and a nice 120f always out of the faucets or shower.
When I put this on the hot water stopped flowing altogether. I checked the strainer, but it wasn't clogged. I checked if I installed it upside down, but I didn't. The union connector was connected the right way too. So, I don't know why I don't have hot water? Is it because my water heater isn't connected yet to the power outlet?
This allows a licensed plumber to turn the water heater past the factory set 125 degrees. Setting the thermostat to 140 degrees and tempering back to 120 degrees essentially makes the tank feel like 7-10 gallons more. The main reason why folks want this is you can't get a standard electric water heater bigger than 55 gallons and people who have a 66 gallon tank don't want to hear they have to get a 50-55 gallon tank.
George Clift your right. To go bigger now you have to buy commercial with a smaller warranty and cost a lot. Not to mention not everybody has the room where their current 50 gallon electric is to put anything bigger. Also, for those reading this saying I have an 80 gallon electric, the govt did away with them 2 years ago.
@@DP-cg5lf oh no... I actually have TWO 80-gallon electrics about 15-years old that I'd like to replace. What are the options today? Tankless isn't an option for me, due to electrical constraints.
I install cylinders amongst other solar products and my advice is to only store hot water at safe temperatures anyway, incase of malfunction of valves like these. We still install these types of valves as a safety precaution incase the hot water temperature should rise past the thermostat settings, but the water temperature level is always kept at a safe setting, where it poeses no risk of scalding.
But with the tank set around 120° you can have harmful bacteria in the tank . By using a valve like this you can set the tank to 140° but adjust the outlet temperature lower thereby killing bacteria in the tank and not scalding people. It also effectively gives you more hot water
The claim may be exaggerated but by tempering the water at the heater, less hotter water will be put into the distribution pipes with less heat loss in the run to the fixtures. Insulating both of the pipes for at least 5' from the heating tank will reduce heat loss. Insulating all of the hot water pipe will reduce heat loss during use as well as perhaps providing adequate warm water even an hour later at the sink. Onboard boats with very small (6 gal) and very hot (180F) hot water tanks, this is very useful.
I used one of the types right at my RV shower and put in 12v recirculating pump. I ran the pump for 1 minute before showering. Lost zero water getting into a nice shower with 1/2 gpm shower head, just turned it on to soap and rinse. Really extended my water supply.
How do you adjust this mixer? Our hot water at the showerhead isn't hot enough... Anf recently has been running warm then just tepid without moving the shower mixer. Could this Cash Acme Valve mixer be dead? Adjustment: The top part has a + sign, and nut, and an allen socket.... errr. Is there a video on how to adjust?
set it by turning one way or another while testing the closest faucet.. i would assume loosening the screw (turn counter clockwise) would bring more cold water in... if all faucets have changed i would ask if it is cold out and if yes/ does your cold water vary temp a lot from winter to summer and if yes/ did you set the valve in the winter or summer/ if answer is yes set it in summer then the fix would be get a permanent marker and mark it now across the screw and onto the housing at 12oclock then start adjustment for the closest sink or faucet once set make the second mark on the housing in line with the line on the screw you made before.... congratulations you now have a winter and summer setting on your device that should have been thrown out and replaced with a proper temp controlled mixing device.
@peter conway no there not. nothing to do with upper or lower. the catch here is that you can have your hotwater heater set at 140 and not get burnt. this product will mix in cold. this is good I guess if you use a lot of hot water. I just bought house with this on and its coming off. just another stupid junk to break one day.
peter conway not true look at the bottom of your dishwasher and you will see a rod that is called heating element. If water comes out of hot water heat at standard 120 the dishwasher will heat it to 140. You are spreading fake news.
@@ncvman I added mine. No room for 80 gal tank like I am used too. Multigenerational families living together in 6 BR/5 1/2 baths. So added the booster to a new water heater of 50 gallons in this house. Haven't run out of hot water yet... 2 laundry rooms, two kitchens. It's pretty simple concept and should last longer than the water heater, although mine is different.
@@ncvman yea but that cost money on the electric bill when the water going into the dishwasher should already be hot if you run the hot water tap on the faucet. I have a gas water heater and have the temp maxed out.
I also got one of those. It doesn't double anything. It drastically reduces the risk of getting a burn, but if that thing suddenly fails while showering... You're as good as dead. It also prelongs the life of everything, especially faucets, especially if you have water at near 100°C in your tank. It increases the efficiency by some margin, but depends on your length of pipe and pipe insulation.
@@timallison8560 It is a Code every shower faucet has to be Temperature and Pressure balanced. Thus, what ever third sentence says is completely irrelevant. If the Tank Booster fails, shower faucet will balance hot and cold water and user won't even notice hot water output from the water heater
I spent the $100 for this product from Amazon. I figured I would try after getting a quote for a tankless. This product did not work for me. Not sure if its because I'm running a hybrid wh. Having a double head shower I would get about 11min of hot water. After install I got about 12min. Looks like I'm dropping some cash for a tankless.
Yea ive had this thing on my waterheater for over a year and i havent noticed it do anything the entire time.. ive adjusted the temp knob on the device and waterheater up and down and water will always feel just as hot as it would with just the tank... in fact i live alone, just installed a 40 gallon, have it set to 145°f and every time i take a shower, without using any hot water, still run out of hot water in about a 20 minute long, long i know shut up, shower... so what the hell? Funny part is i installed it when i put in the water heater and replumbed all my distribution pipe because it was all the corrugated pipe and had had it, and when i had the house inspected to sign off on the permit and home, the inspector looked at that thing for a good 10 minutes and looked at me and said, and i quote ". You know in all my years, now its not illegal or against code because its just, well stupid im sorry to say.. but if you connect the cold water to the hot water outlet of the tank, your not gonna get hot water.. so whats your thinking on this because im all ears, do you only like warm water or just pulling a prank on me because this heres a good one..". Lol
Well my hot water is set to 135, my booster (a Honeywell), reduces the temperature so that I do not need to add cold water for any shower or bath. My 50 gal capacity tank has never run out of hot water for my house with 2 kitchens, 6 BR 5 1/2 baths and two laundry rooms for my multigenerational family. Previously, I had an 80 gallon tank.
I know a lot of people are calling this a scam, but I do see a potential legitimate use for this in Solar water heating. Solar can heat a tank to 180 degrees which would pose a significant scalding risk. This would temper the output to something that wouldn't scald.
wow...I have a similar "booster" but you would need to have a thermostat. This booster and mine are mechanical set to add a standard flow of coldwater to the hot water. If the water coming out of the tank had temperature variations, it wouldn't be very effective.
@@Al_Z.Heimer correct and some of us have a large swing in temps with seasonal inlet/cold water temps. I sent you a link on another comment section it has the abilities you might be looking for and can be used with your old style mixing valve tank booster.
I installed a high efficiency rhemm gas water heater, a watts recirculation pump, and this. My gas bill is now higher about 30 dollars a month now. 70 bucks during the summer now. When it used to be around 30. What gives?
The recirculation pump is why your bill is higher. It's essentially heating all the hot water pipes in your home instead of just heating the tank. The benefit is that you'll use less water as you no longer need to wait approximately 30 seconds for hot water to arrive for your shower while cold/warm water is running down the drain.
Isn't this what's already happening at your faucet anyhow, the mixing of hot and cold water to get the desired temp? I guess if you are afraid of getting water too hot at the faucet because you have kids, this would be a way to avoid that and still have water hot enough to use.
Moonpie Spotlight I believe youre missing the point - one of these adds hot water to the cold water supply, so the heater doesn’t have to work as hard/long to get the hot water up to temp.
It's not about getting the desired temp because as you said that happens at the tap anyway, it's about extending the usable hot water in your tank. Without this, to get warm temperature "X" at the faucet, you will use more of the liquid in your hot water tank, with this you use less, because the water in the tank can be kept much hotter so temp "X" can be achieved with mostly cold water and a little hot tank water. The idea is to make the usable hot water last longer.
This is no different than what domestic water boilers have used for decades, which is required by code anyway. Most run in the 160* F and up range, so you can see why you don't want that coming out of your tap. However, the title is correct for the video nonetheless, but I can't see it saving money because your water heater is working harder. Gas/oil might be one thing, but I would think this would be really hard on electric water heaters.
By borrowing energy to goku from grass and trees, from people and animals, from inanimate objects and the atmosphere... And then he concentrates them to form a Spirit Bomb.
It's clear you are not a plumber Mixing valve are designed to temper water in some fixtures are the most common use is for commercial and special Futures,
Shark Bites are amazing, they sell them at any Home Depot. No more measuring & cutting exact new copper pipe to connect by soldering or welding copper pipe, adapters & elbows. Just screw the bendable ( Shark-bites ) to your water heater then clean the cooper pipe about a 1/2 inch were you cut off the old one off and push the other end of the ( Shark bite ) on to the copper pipe and then it clamps down hard on the pipe, hence the name ( Shark Bite ) and does not let go. You would have to cut to get it off once it’s locked on to the copper pipe. It’s pretty cool and saves a lot of time from the old way
Doesn't work because your mixing cold water with hot water which your shower does already this is just pre set temp device plus you have to max out the temp setting on the burner on the heater to get 120F out of this device killing the efficiency of the heater it self. It reduces the output of your heater because it takes alot more hot water to make hot water when your introducing cold water especially if your city water is very cold you have to have the temp setting turned up way passed 120F its designed temp rating for maximum efficiency so it runs longer that's why it's a scam. The only possible way it would work which it doesn't is if the feeding water to the heater was pre heated to help the heater to heat the water faster and not have to run as long which this device does not do in fact it does the opposite if you have a high efficiency water heater do not use this device the water heater was designed without it, if you want 120F water for safety for kids or elderly just turn your unit to 120F it will be way more efficient than this device.
the idea is to get 60 gallons of 120F water from a 20gallong tank but the unit itself isnt designed for the application due to inlet/cold water temp swings winter to summer as well if your power was off for some time you would get even less all the ay to NO hot water from an electric tank. the device is for boilers to mix 180F water with mains water for storage or hydronic systems where variance of mains temps are generally accounted for in the system. I could see this being used with solar heat exchangers that are storing water for domestic uses also but it is straight mechanical and we have proper mixing valves that work by temp now so why bother with this old device at all. I agree it isnt a booster and it saves nothing it only makes a tank act like its a bit larger and likely stresses other parts like the thermostat, elements, and TPS valves right to their breaking points as well as poses risks of severe burns if the cold side clogs or someone acidently blows the TPS valve or breaks a pipe near tank. To many what ifs. The manufacturers generally know best less it is a manual from china your reading.
That's a lot of messing around and expense. You are just mixing hot and cold water at the source rather than at the shower or kitchen mixer tap. Why bother? It's certainly not going to double the hot water!!
Running your hot water heater at a higher temperature will certainly allow for more hot water supply (unless you always use pure hot water, in which case your hot water will just be hotter). The problem is the potential for scalding from the 140F hot water. This premixes the 140 with cold water, so you don't get more than 120 out of the tap (plenty for household use), but with the increased hot water supply of running your tank hotter. You're right that just running your hot water tank higher would get you almost exactly the same benefits-it's just hazardous. 140 degree water can give you a 2nd degree burn in a few seconds. 120 degree water will take 8 minutes!
David Rogers right this item is kinda pointless for past 10 years our water heater has been set as hot as it will go an at wgerever we want hot water we adjust it to preferences and usually theres enough water for 2 -3 showers dishwasher sometimes a loud of clothes depending on the tempeture i noticed by setting the water heater hotter we actually use less hot water as we reach the desired results with higher temp i like a fairly warm shower and i noticed before i turned it up 1 or 2 showers and the water was cold now we get twice that just gotta be cautious not to scald with too hot this is also good when i want to wash clothes in really hot water sanitizing them etc.
This video has a whopper of a lie, How does it save energy? This is just a mixer value which is required on all showers, tubs and water recirculators. What's not being told i the life of the device which has been reported at 3 to 5 years.
HomeDepot sells these things. Every one I saw on the shelf at HomeDepot had been opened and returned. There must be a reason why people are returning these things..... As in they do NOT work.
All this piece of hardware does is dilute your hot water with cold water at the point where it exits the hot water heater. If you want to dilute your hot water with cold, simply turn on your cold water valve at the destination for the hot water (the shower, the bathtub, the sink, the vanity, wherever). I can't think of a single reason for anyone wanting this item. If you want colder water to exit the hot water heater, simply turn down the hot water heater temp setting.
This add s cold water to hotter water to extend the hot water use like filling a glass with 120 degree water. You have one glass of120 water. Now if you fill that glass with 140 degree water you have to add more cold to get it to 120 degrees. By doing this you have made more than one glass of 120 degree water. It is to give you more hot water. Simply cranking up your hot water heater only gives you hotter water not more. Yes you can do the same with your faucet if your not worried about children getting scalded.
I Love This Valve
I have one of these on my boat with a new marine water heater. The boat's water heater is heated up by either 120v shore power, or by the engine's cooling system with a heat exchanger. Water temps can get to 180f with the engine running. These valves keep you from going to the hospital and a nice 120f always out of the faucets or shower.
When I put this on the hot water stopped flowing altogether. I checked the strainer, but it wasn't clogged. I checked if I installed it upside down, but I didn't. The union connector was connected the right way too. So, I don't know why I don't have hot water? Is it because my water heater isn't connected yet to the power outlet?
I like this product. What does this cost? Does this have a pressure reducing effect?
Will the warranty be effected?
This allows a licensed plumber to turn the water heater past the factory set 125 degrees. Setting the thermostat to 140 degrees and tempering back to 120 degrees essentially makes the tank feel like 7-10 gallons more. The main reason why folks want this is you can't get a standard electric water heater bigger than 55 gallons and people who have a 66 gallon tank don't want to hear they have to get a 50-55 gallon tank.
George Clift your right. To go bigger now you have to buy commercial with a smaller warranty and cost a lot. Not to mention not everybody has the room where their current 50 gallon electric is to put anything bigger. Also, for those reading this saying I have an 80 gallon electric, the govt did away with them 2 years ago.
@@DP-cg5lf oh no... I actually have TWO 80-gallon electrics about 15-years old that I'd like to replace. What are the options today? Tankless isn't an option for me, due to electrical constraints.
Why would you need this much hot water?
I install cylinders amongst other solar products and my advice is to only store hot water at safe temperatures anyway, incase of malfunction of valves like these. We still install these types of valves as a safety precaution incase the hot water temperature should rise past the thermostat settings, but the water temperature level is always kept at a safe setting, where it poeses no risk of scalding.
But with the tank set around 120° you can have harmful bacteria in the tank . By using a valve like this you can set the tank to 140° but adjust the outlet temperature lower thereby killing bacteria in the tank and not scalding people. It also effectively gives you more hot water
Where can j buy these?
this is for electric or gas heaters right?
The claim may be exaggerated but by tempering the water at the heater, less hotter water will be put into the distribution pipes with less heat loss in the run to the fixtures. Insulating both of the pipes for at least 5' from the heating tank will reduce heat loss. Insulating all of the hot water pipe will reduce heat loss during use as well as perhaps providing adequate warm water even an hour later at the sink. Onboard boats with very small (6 gal) and very hot (180F) hot water tanks, this is very useful.
I used one of the types right at my RV shower and put in 12v recirculating pump. I ran the pump for 1 minute before showering. Lost zero water getting into a nice shower with 1/2 gpm shower head, just turned it on to soap and rinse. Really extended my water supply.
Hi... My geyser has a leak by the red hot water fitting... Please help
This would work in a closed system such as infloor heating system.
How do you adjust this mixer? Our hot water at the showerhead isn't hot enough... Anf recently has been running warm then just tepid without moving the shower mixer.
Could this Cash Acme Valve mixer be dead?
Adjustment: The top part has a + sign, and nut, and an allen socket.... errr. Is there a video on how to adjust?
set it by turning one way or another while testing the closest faucet.. i would assume loosening the screw (turn counter clockwise) would bring more cold water in... if all faucets have changed i would ask if it is cold out and if yes/ does your cold water vary temp a lot from winter to summer and if yes/ did you set the valve in the winter or summer/ if answer is yes set it in summer then the fix would be get a permanent marker and mark it now across the screw and onto the housing at 12oclock then start adjustment for the closest sink or faucet once set make the second mark on the housing in line with the line on the screw you made before.... congratulations you now have a winter and summer setting on your device that should have been thrown out and replaced with a proper temp controlled mixing device.
If you run the water heater hotter, wont u be spending more energy?
@peter conway no there not. nothing to do with upper or lower. the catch here is that you can have your hotwater heater set at 140 and not get burnt. this product will mix in cold. this is good I guess if you use a lot of hot water. I just bought house with this on and its coming off. just another stupid junk to break one day.
peter conway not true look at the bottom of your dishwasher and you will see a rod that is called heating element. If water comes out of hot water heat at standard 120 the dishwasher will heat it to 140. You are spreading fake news.
@@ncvman I added mine. No room for 80 gal tank like I am used too. Multigenerational families living together in 6 BR/5 1/2 baths. So added the booster to a new water heater of 50 gallons in this house. Haven't run out of hot water yet... 2 laundry rooms, two kitchens. It's pretty simple concept and should last longer than the water heater, although mine is different.
@@ncvman yea but that cost money on the electric bill when the water going into the dishwasher should already be hot if you run the hot water tap on the faucet. I have a gas water heater and have the temp maxed out.
I also got one of those.
It doesn't double anything.
It drastically reduces the risk of getting a burn, but if that thing suddenly fails while showering... You're as good as dead.
It also prelongs the life of everything, especially faucets, especially if you have water at near 100°C in your tank.
It increases the efficiency by some margin, but depends on your length of pipe and pipe insulation.
the third sentence is the big reason to NOT buy this.
@@timallison8560 It is a Code every shower faucet has to be Temperature and Pressure balanced. Thus, what ever third sentence says is completely irrelevant. If the Tank Booster fails, shower faucet will balance hot and cold water and user won't even notice hot water output from the water heater
Doesn't opening the cold water valve at the tub do the same thing?
Pretty much LOL If you don't have little kids, there is no need to keep hot water at 120 degrees.
I spent the $100 for this product from Amazon. I figured I would try after getting a quote for a tankless. This product did not work for me. Not sure if its because I'm running a hybrid wh. Having a double head shower I would get about 11min of hot water. After install I got about 12min. Looks like I'm dropping some cash for a tankless.
Hybrid is like same price as tankless almost but only 6 year warranty maybe try 75 gallon with a tank booster that should be 90 gallons
Those flex connectors are polyethylene inside and are not allowed within 18" of the flue vent in almost every state in the US.
What about beside a power vent?
@@jasonhessels Power vent water heaters are PVC vented and do not get hot enough to cause degradation.
Yea ive had this thing on my waterheater for over a year and i havent noticed it do anything the entire time.. ive adjusted the temp knob on the device and waterheater up and down and water will always feel just as hot as it would with just the tank... in fact i live alone, just installed a 40 gallon, have it set to 145°f and every time i take a shower, without using any hot water, still run out of hot water in about a 20 minute long, long i know shut up, shower... so what the hell? Funny part is i installed it when i put in the water heater and replumbed all my distribution pipe because it was all the corrugated pipe and had had it, and when i had the house inspected to sign off on the permit and home, the inspector looked at that thing for a good 10 minutes and looked at me and said, and i quote ". You know in all my years, now its not illegal or against code because its just, well stupid im sorry to say.. but if you connect the cold water to the hot water outlet of the tank, your not gonna get hot water.. so whats your thinking on this because im all ears, do you only like warm water or just pulling a prank on me because this heres a good one..". Lol
Well my hot water is set to 135, my booster (a Honeywell), reduces the temperature so that I do not need to add cold water for any shower or bath. My 50 gal capacity tank has never run out of hot water for my house with 2 kitchens, 6 BR 5 1/2 baths and two laundry rooms for my multigenerational family. Previously, I had an 80 gallon tank.
Your first mistake is listening to a home inspector.
@@mikegribben4549 great comment!
I know a lot of people are calling this a scam, but I do see a potential legitimate use for this in Solar water heating. Solar can heat a tank to 180 degrees which would pose a significant scalding risk. This would temper the output to something that wouldn't scald.
wow...I have a similar "booster" but you would need to have a thermostat. This booster and mine are mechanical set to add a standard flow of coldwater to the hot water. If the water coming out of the tank had temperature variations, it wouldn't be very effective.
@@Al_Z.Heimer correct and some of us have a large swing in temps with seasonal inlet/cold water temps. I sent you a link on another comment section it has the abilities you might be looking for and can be used with your old style mixing valve tank booster.
I installed a high efficiency rhemm gas water heater, a watts recirculation pump, and this. My gas bill is now higher about 30 dollars a month now. 70 bucks during the summer now. When it used to be around 30. What gives?
The recirculation pump is why your bill is higher. It's essentially heating all the hot water pipes in your home instead of just heating the tank. The benefit is that you'll use less water as you no longer need to wait approximately 30 seconds for hot water to arrive for your shower while cold/warm water is running down the drain.
Hi what’s the name of that valve connected to the tank
Tank booster.. it includes the gage, valve, knob, tube...
never seen a water heater with a added mixing valve in my life plumber for 50y
I was wondering that...is this standard in cold places like wisconsin?
Never done any commercial work I take it.
Isn't this what's already happening at your faucet anyhow, the mixing of hot and cold water to get the desired temp? I guess if you are afraid of getting water too hot at the faucet because you have kids, this would be a way to avoid that and still have water hot enough to use.
Moonpie Spotlight I believe youre missing the point - one of these adds hot water to the cold water supply, so the heater doesn’t have to work as hard/long to get the hot water up to temp.
It's not about getting the desired temp because as you said that happens at the tap anyway, it's about extending the usable hot water in your tank. Without this, to get warm temperature "X" at the faucet, you will use more of the liquid in your hot water tank, with this you use less, because the water in the tank can be kept much hotter so temp "X" can be achieved with mostly cold water and a little hot tank water. The idea is to make the usable hot water last longer.
They work well. I have several at the facility I manage. Much larger versions but the principle is the same
Prime example of why your ordinary person needs to leave plumbing alone. Doesn't grasp the concept at all.
Looks fun to work on when it fails. I don't see any reason for it to be $300.
This is no different than what domestic water boilers have used for decades, which is required by code anyway. Most run in the 160* F and up range, so you can see why you don't want that coming out of your tap.
However, the title is correct for the video nonetheless, but I can't see it saving money because your water heater is working harder. Gas/oil might be one thing, but I would think this would be really hard on electric water heaters.
Has the installer ever heard of an adjustable wrench?
HOW WILL IT SAVE ENERGY ?
By borrowing energy to goku from grass and trees, from people and animals, from inanimate objects and the atmosphere... And then he concentrates them to form a Spirit Bomb.
now I see
Xiuhcoatl
Omg ****
We both grew up waiting 20 episodes for one spirit bomb..
It doesn't save energy . It may save money . you don't need a bigger water heater .
Shut off that drum 'music' - it's very annoying.
It's clear you are not a plumber Mixing valve are designed to temper water in some fixtures are the most common use is for commercial and special Futures,
Why not just increase the water heater to 140 degrees without using this mixer?
Risk of scalding,in MA. code states that the hot water coming out of the tap has to be in the 120 degree range.
It's just another mixing valve.
You lost me at "sharkbite"
Shark Bites are amazing, they sell them at any Home Depot. No more measuring & cutting exact new copper pipe to connect by soldering or welding copper pipe, adapters & elbows. Just screw the bendable ( Shark-bites ) to your water heater then clean the cooper pipe about a 1/2 inch were you cut off the old one off and push the other end of the ( Shark bite ) on to the copper pipe and then it clamps down hard on the pipe, hence the name ( Shark Bite ) and does not let go. You would have to cut to get it off once it’s locked on to the copper pipe. It’s pretty cool and saves a lot of time from the old way
Shark bites are garbage, pro pess all the way
$s$ more money!
I never hired a plumber who was a Brit. Really. Most were named Bubba, as I recall.
That's why your name is 'Jack' because your know Jack Shit. Commentator is an Australian.
Ancestry.com is in order! A lot of australians come from english people who were banned from the country. HAHAHAHHAHA. this is funny
Doesn't work because your mixing cold water with hot water which your shower does already this is just pre set temp device plus you have to max out the temp setting on the burner on the heater to get 120F out of this device killing the efficiency of the heater
it self. It reduces the output of your heater because it takes alot more hot water to make hot water when your introducing cold water especially if your city water is very cold you have to have the temp setting turned up way passed 120F its designed temp rating for maximum efficiency so it runs longer that's why it's a scam. The only possible way it would work which it doesn't is if the feeding water to the heater was pre heated to help the heater to heat the water faster and not have to run as long which this device does not do in fact it does the opposite if you have a high efficiency water heater do not use this device the water heater was designed without it, if you want 120F water for safety for kids or elderly just turn your unit to 120F it will be way more efficient than this device.
the idea is to get 60 gallons of 120F water from a 20gallong tank but the unit itself isnt designed for the application due to inlet/cold water temp swings winter to summer as well if your power was off for some time you would get even less all the ay to NO hot water from an electric tank. the device is for boilers to mix 180F water with mains water for storage or hydronic systems where variance of mains temps are generally accounted for in the system. I could see this being used with solar heat exchangers that are storing water for domestic uses also but it is straight mechanical and we have proper mixing valves that work by temp now so why bother with this old device at all. I agree it isnt a booster and it saves nothing it only makes a tank act like its a bit larger and likely stresses other parts like the thermostat, elements, and TPS valves right to their breaking points as well as poses risks of severe burns if the cold side clogs or someone acidently blows the TPS valve or breaks a pipe near tank. To many what ifs. The manufacturers generally know best less it is a manual from china your reading.
That's a lot of messing around and expense. You are just mixing hot and cold water at the source rather than at the shower or kitchen mixer tap. Why bother? It's certainly not going to double the hot water!!
Running your hot water heater at a higher temperature will certainly allow for more hot water supply (unless you always use pure hot water, in which case your hot water will just be hotter). The problem is the potential for scalding from the 140F hot water. This premixes the 140 with cold water, so you don't get more than 120 out of the tap (plenty for household use), but with the increased hot water supply of running your tank hotter.
You're right that just running your hot water tank higher would get you almost exactly the same benefits-it's just hazardous. 140 degree water can give you a 2nd degree burn in a few seconds. 120 degree water will take 8 minutes!
Craig Williams ....!
You are WRONG about that!
David Rogers
right this item is kinda pointless for past 10 years our water heater has been set as hot as it will go an at wgerever we want hot water we adjust it to preferences and usually theres enough water for 2 -3 showers dishwasher sometimes a loud of clothes depending on the tempeture i noticed by setting the water heater hotter we actually use less hot water as we reach the desired results with higher temp i like a fairly warm shower and i noticed before i turned it up 1 or 2 showers and the water was cold now we get twice that just gotta be cautious not to scald with too hot this is also good when i want to wash clothes in really hot water sanitizing them etc.
To prevent 140 degree water coming out of the tap to scald some one thats why.
@@SuperJeremi10 its there to do just that, prevent scalding at the faucet.
This video has a whopper of a lie, How does it save energy?
This is just a mixer value which is required on all showers, tubs and water recirculators. What's not being told i the life of the device which has been reported at 3 to 5 years.
HomeDepot sells these things. Every one I saw on the shelf at HomeDepot had been opened and returned. There must be a reason why people are returning these things..... As in they do NOT work.
And causes premature failure of water heater! Buy a bigger water heater.
All this piece of hardware does is dilute your hot water with cold water at the point where it exits the hot water heater. If you want to dilute your hot water with cold, simply turn on your cold water valve at the destination for the hot water (the shower, the bathtub, the sink, the vanity, wherever). I can't think of a single reason for anyone wanting this item. If you want colder water to exit the hot water heater, simply turn down the hot water heater temp setting.
This add s cold water to hotter water to extend the hot water use like filling a glass with 120 degree water. You have one glass of120 water. Now if you fill that glass with 140 degree water you have to add more cold to get it to 120 degrees. By doing this you have made more than one glass of 120 degree water. It is to give you more hot water. Simply cranking up your hot water heater only gives you hotter water not more. Yes you can do the same with your faucet if your not worried about children getting scalded.
@@mikegribben4549 got it. good point and thank you for your insight