bending the waist first you will get more springback. Bob Gleason of Pegasus guitars turned me on to this method a few years ago. I have bent over 1000 sets with this method and what I see happening is this. by bending lower upper then waist you are bending from the largest radius to the smallest. Doing the waist last brings the wood tighter to the patter. Doing waist first the wood tends to lift. You will see you get a better replication of the pattern and more repeatable results.
Replying for John - Yes, we did a 2020 update (yes, another bending update :-) that goes through the Cutaway bend - you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/t8cdC_BRoW4/видео.html
@@LaSalle.ToneWorks Thank you for the update. I would love to visit your shop someday, you are a very good instructor and the jigs you have are great! I'm almost done with my first build that I made my own jig, steam box and router jig for the binding but I'm not doing that again. I'll get a proper jig from you along with your bending machine. I got the binding put on and had little tear out using the binding tape lesson learned. Thank you again!
This is tempered Stainless steel. This is not shim stock. .015 in thick . MSC and other companies will sell shim stock , this is not tempered and will take a memory bend.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, especially over the festive season. Just to clarify things, what I need to ask for is Tempered Stainless Steel .015 inches thick? NOT 'shim stock'. Sorry to be a pest, but I need to get this right. Thank you again for your help. Murray
naughtydrums we have this on the web site if you are looking for it. Check out blues creek guitars thanks you can get my contact info and feel free to call if you need thanks again
sides .075 I like to use the wet paper but be careful if you can find some 3 lb weight to place on the slats , they will fall off when the wood is ready to bend. I have found Koa to be pretty easy to bend. Dampen the wood and you can start bending lower bout at about 250F upper 275f then set the waist allow the heat to go toabout 325 then set the control to 250F for about 15 min allow to cool
I too would like to know. I have so far ruined two maple sides from LMI and their sides are milled to 3 mm. I get a lot of reluctance at the sharpest bend of the upper bout (just past the waist) and then it buckles. This is on a J185 profile in a fox style bender.. I did the waist first, then lower bout. Surprisingly, I didn’t crack the waist, which on a J 185 is substantially tighter than the waist in your demonstration . Thank you for your helpful videos!
Thanks John. about to try your 'new' method (gulp). The old one worked OK too.
thank you
bending the waist first you will get more springback. Bob Gleason of Pegasus guitars turned me on to this method a few years ago. I have bent over 1000 sets with this method and what I see happening is this.
by bending lower upper then waist you are bending from the largest radius to the smallest. Doing the waist last brings the wood tighter to the patter. Doing waist first the wood tends to lift. You will see you get a better replication of the pattern and more repeatable results.
John, what is the exact brand & model of that temp controller module you are using?
Another thing about this method is the heat transfer is more efficient and I don't have a large heat sink against the wood.
Think you for posting this. How long do you leave it at temperature after the sides are bent?
take the heat hold for a few min then set the controller to 220 250 F for 10-15 min and let cool
John my next build your bending machine and mold with a cutaway is a must. Do you have a video doing a cutaway?
Replying for John - Yes, we did a 2020 update (yes, another bending update :-) that goes through the Cutaway bend - you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/t8cdC_BRoW4/видео.html
@@LaSalle.ToneWorks Thank you for the update. I would love to visit your shop someday, you are a very good instructor and the jigs you have are great! I'm almost done with my first build that I made my own jig, steam box and router jig for the binding but I'm not doing that again. I'll get a proper jig from you along with your bending machine. I got the binding put on and had little tear out using the binding tape lesson learned. Thank you again!
Could you tell me please what thickness of steel you use for your slats? Also what kind of steel?
This is tempered Stainless steel. This is not shim stock. .015 in thick . MSC and other companies will sell shim stock , this is not tempered and will take a memory bend.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, especially over the festive season. Just to clarify things, what I need to ask for is Tempered Stainless Steel .015 inches thick? NOT 'shim stock'. Sorry to be a pest, but I need to get this right. Thank you again for your help. Murray
naughtydrums
we have this on the web site if you are looking for it. Check out blues creek guitars thanks you can get my contact info and feel free to call if you need
thanks again
Any advice for bending figured curly koa?
sides .075 I like to use the wet paper but be careful if you can find some 3 lb weight to place on the slats , they will fall off when the wood is ready to bend. I have found Koa to be pretty easy to bend. Dampen the wood and you can start bending lower bout at about 250F upper 275f then set the waist allow the heat to go toabout 325 then set the control to 250F for about 15 min allow to cool
How thick are those sides? Thanks
I too would like to know. I have so far ruined two maple sides from LMI and their sides are milled to 3 mm. I get a lot of reluctance at the sharpest bend of the upper bout (just past the waist) and then it buckles. This is on a J185 profile in a fox style bender.. I did the waist first, then lower bout. Surprisingly, I didn’t crack the waist, which on a J 185 is substantially tighter than the waist in your demonstration . Thank you for your helpful videos!
you may always feel free to contact me. My contact info is at blues creek guitars , we are here to help
you need to move the mic closer to your mouth.