KMC X12 Chain: Installation and Review
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- Опубликовано: 16 дек 2024
- Instead of a SRAM Eagle 12 speed chain, I installed a KMC X12. How did it do?
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I bought an expensive KMC DLC12 chain during covid to put on my shimano drivetrain bike. Chains were extremely hard to find at the time and I spent more than I wanted on it. That being said, it’s been a great chain, shifted as well as the stock shimano chain, and still going strong, and hasn’t hit .5 stretch yet, that’s when i usually replace
I like your tech videos.........I always learn something new.
I use the KMC X11 and X11SL on my bikes. I have two MTB, 2 gravel and 3 road, and all have been excellent. One of my road bikes is on my direct drive smart trainer and I put in regular hard efforts on it. No issues with shifting after several months, and no significant chain stretch. I don't have that particluar chain checker but I can tell you that it's not reached 0.5 yet on the chain checker I have.
Thanks. Never had issues with KMC in the past always shifts great and longevity like you said. My Giant came with SRAM 12 speed Crankset with those really thick teeth. I thought I was now stuck with SRAM eagle chains. Well, I'm really glad you did this video since I need a new chain. Thanks again.
I always use KMC chains. I have been running KMC X12's on my Shimano XTR drivetrain for two seasons now. I usually replace the chain twice a year (just before the spring/summer race season and then heading into the winter months). No issues whatsoever. Shifting is spot on every time without fail. I think at the end of this season of racing I will be looking at changing the cassette, chainwheel AND jockey wheels when I next replace my chain. Top tip with KMC though is never submerge them in those chain baths otherwise you risk dispersing all of that factory installed grease. Just some decent degreaser, a rag and the now quite rare KMC dual sided brush (looks a bit like a dual sided toothbrush).
I have this chain checker arriving soon this week they finally were back in stock directly from Park tool so far, they still make the best chain checker I’ve ever had. By the way, mySRAM mountain cassette I have had for years I did a conversion from a two by to the original SRAM GX 1 x . I’m probably swapping out chains at least once a year and my mountain bike gets the most use everything shifts flawlessly. oh, and by the way, my local bike shop didn’t have any SRAM 11 speed chains in stock, and this was last October 2022 so they sold me more expensive SRAM RED 11 speed road chain . I recently also converted the front chain ring to an absolute black oval ring. Everything shifts fine and the chain is still great and shifts well.
Used that exact chain for my 1x12 gravel bike this year. The choice was pretty clear when i started comparing all the chain choices ($$$).
Agree with several of the other comments that KMC 12sp chain paired with Eagle X01 AXS RD/cassette was noisier and less smooth than I thought it should have been. Switched to an Eagle X01 chain, improved both noise and shifting smoothness. X01/XX1 chains are purported to be longest lasting on the market...time will tell.
I buy three chains when I put a new cassette on a bike and the three chains go into a rotation. Works great.
I did the same and run 3 years with the same drivetrain
I just ran through 2 xx1 chains in a year. I'm going back to kmc also. I like that their quick links last much longer the sram power links. I wax my chain every 250 miles, so I spend as much on power links as xx1 chain. Lol
On the park tool website they recommend: 11-to-12-speed chains*: replace at or just before 0.5% - Ive been following this advice but you will never know if you could have waited longer...
On the chain checker (Park CC-2) it says to replace at
@@ClintGibbs on the park tool website of the cc-2 it clearly says 0.5 on the side of the tool and also in the product description. Maybe they changed it in recent years. Just wanted to let you know, not trying to be a smart ass.
@@testalino I guess they did change it. I probably need to update mine…I use it all the time
KMC E-12 on my eMTB. My bike is wolf in sheep clothing, looks exactly like class 1 but it’s actually a class 3 that’s not even legal. It can put out massive torque that can reach 120nm. I only trust KMC with this bike. Even the best SRAM chain can easily snap but with KMC, no issues.
I own an x9 SL chain in gold that I bought last August, and with a Park Tool CC-3.2, it still doesn't measure at the .5 mark. It's a $50 chain, but paid for itself with it's longevity in the long run..👍🏾
When you're changing a wear component and looking for a replacement that "wears less", beware that when you have all of these surfaces rubbing together, one of them is going to be the hardest and last the longest, and one of them is going to absorb more of the wear. My first thought when you say this chain wears better is that it's just shifting the wear equation toward wearing the chainring and cassette.
(this is not specific bike experience, just general knowledge about mechanical systems, where you always want to be deliberate about which part will be the "sacrificial" wear part in any situation)
never used the KMC x12 but I did put a KMC x11 on my old hardtail after the factory Sram-cheaper one PC-1110 its what they had for 11 speed in the local shop. still holding up good my brother now rides that bike. right now I have Sram GX chains 12 speed on both my mountain bikes and Shimano HG700 11 speed for my GRX gravel bike. havent needed to replace any of them so far we will see how long they last. seems to be every 2 seasons for me or at least has been with no need to replace cassettes. Cheers
I had bad luck with kmc on sram 11 speed, using their top tier chain one side of a link broke I didn’t notice right away and was causing ghost shifts for a couple rides lol.
i’m meticulous about taking care of my drivetrain just didn’t catch it right off.
So I swapped it out for a SRAM XX1 12 speed (yes on a 11 drive )
works excellent!!
I now keep an extra one
Clint always has good points!
I noticed you used the proper Park chain link piers, but instead you used the "stomp" method to connect the new chain. This invites possible errors where one side will seat properly and the other won't, leading to a future snapped chain. Instead use the Park tool as designed to seat the new quicklink, holding inner and outer plate in perfect alignment while doing it. That way you'll be sure the new link will be seated 100% properly.
You know with the CC-2 you are supposed to replace the chains at .5 not .75 per Park Tools instructions for 11 and 12 speed chains.
KMC chains work great! Had a brand new Sram Force XO1 chain snap on its first use (no, it did not snap at the quicklinks).
I haven't had any problems with KMC x10 chains on my other bikes , however I have had problems with them on my three 12 speed bikes for some reason. The issue I have is that the X12 chain doesn't seem to be as flexible laterally as the SRAM chains are and this causes issues when shifting onto the 50T cog on the cassette. I can't figure it out since all the other gears shift flawlessly. Once in that gear the chains also will not allow me to back pedal as well. I would put it off on just a bike specific issue, but it happens on three different bikes two with 49 mm chainlines and one with 55 mm. I haven't spend the time to eliminate the only other common issue between the bikes and that is the NX 11-50T cassettes, so the problem might lie there.
I still keep the chains as backups in my back pack while riding since I find it faster to switch an entire chain than to use a chain cutter to remove a damaged link and then replace it with a quick link. Other than THAT single issue with the X12 chains I wont use anything but KMC chains on my other bikes because they just never seem to wear out. One is going on 3 years of riding and is still barely at .25 after riding it about a 100 miles a month as a commuter bike.
Thanks for the advice bro. I'm running GX with the 4 sram chains and I change them around each 200km. Now I want to check out how worn out they are...
People would be surprised to know how many manufacturers KMC makes chains for.
How can you tell which direction the chain should go? I’ve seen some chains have arrows but I don’t see it on this chain on my bike
Many of them only have the letters facing out, in other words on the right side.
I had an X11 KMC chain on my XT drivetrain. I had it on for 6ish months before I snapped it. Only chain I have ever broke. I cleaned and lubed it regularly because I like a smooth quiet drivetrain.
I went to replace the busted links and decided check the stretch with my park chain guide. It was well over .75 I checked several times. I would say 300 or less miles on the chain. I use rock and roll lubricant and do not ride in wet weather.
Bear with me my cousin was running an x11 mtb and x8 road chain 200 miles and 500 miles respectivley he is meticulus when it comes to cleaning and lubing. I told him to check his chains. Both were well past the .75
No clue what the deal was. I went back to an XT chain. He is on SLX and trying another kmc on husband road bike.
Just my experience.
Hello.. just a suggestion, I used Rock n Roll for over 10 years but switched to Squirt wax about 3 years ago. It lasts about 75-100 miles before you need to reapply, all components stay clean. I ride north Georgia conditions. Pedal on!
Sounds sweet I will definitely look into that
I stick to local bike shops for chains now. Ive gotten 2 Shimano counterfeit chains 1 on ebay and 1 on Aliexpress.
Its possible you did too. Ive always had excellent performance from my KMC 8,9, and 10 speed chains.
I like kmc chains used them many times that being said I tried the kmc 12 speed chain on my SRAM eagle nx cassette and did not work as well as the SRAM chain. Shifting was more crisp with the SRAM eagle chain.
Great review. I've used the KMC X10SL Ti-N Gold on my Shimano XT 10-by set-up, using an oval chainring. If you keep up with regular clean & lub, this super-light, slotted link chain (only 240gm on 114 links) will perform superbly. By the way, the Missing Link is designed to last for around 3 re-uses, or until it locks/unlocks a bit too easily. A great way around breaking the chain for bath cleaning is to undo one of the pulley wheel bolts , slip the chain off the rear mech cage and chain-ring then soak in a plastic container to soak off the trail grime. Slip it back on the same way and lube sparingly, wiping of the grip-attracting excess. Job done. By the way, there's an old British motorcycle trick to ascertain chain wear if you don't have a gauge. Jut pull the chain up and away from the chain-ring at the 3 o'clock position. If it lifts too far, the chain's stretched. Simple.
KMC all the way!
I use a Park Tool CC-3.2 and when it gets to 0.5 I change the chain. Running either 11 or 12 speed on all my bikes. Funny but this video convinced me not to buy KMC chains. That issue you had with no being able to use the quick link at a particular link I've never had with SRAM chains.
Maybe I had a lemon, but I finally replaced my sram chain with a little over a hundred miles on it. I had 6 quick links in it from the chain snapping repeatedly. I just can't find a video on strength of a chain. Do you feel the kmc is tougher than my sram gx chain?
Yeah something is not right there unless you used something like mineral spirits to totally strip the chain.
I have a drain train that has over 22K miles but the chain has been changed frequently. Is there a point even if there is no skipping that you would just change out the cassette?
Only if there is skipping or poor shifting. Usually when that happens you’ll see the teeth on the cassettes start to look like shark teeth.
Are there any negative effects if your chain is too long? I’m just changing mine and it appears to be much longer than the calculated length for my bike -I’ve used two on line calculators for the new one and both have the same result so I assume they’re correct. I had always suspected my chain was too slack but it did work and rode ok, so I’m questioning what the effects of a ‘too-long’ chain are, if any?!?!
The downside is that it will wear out the teeth on your cassette and also your chain rings which means a new chain will most likely skip. You’ll have to replace the cassette and usually a chain rings if that happens.
When you installed the new chain, you never mentioned if you leave the factory lube or if you do a deep clean on the new chain and then add your own lube. What's your preference? BTW, love your videos!
I’ve actually mentioned that in another video but forgot to mention it here. What I do is I wipe off that sticky coating as best I can with rub I alcohol. Then I ride the bike for about three rides before I lube the chain.
Clint, be careful with this...the EAGLE 12 speed actually has slightly larger diameter rollers than all other chains. So to the teeth of the cogs and crank the non-SRAM chain already seems a little worn. Eagle Transmission 12 speed has even much larger rollers. Zero Friction Cycling covers this topic well. Also because of this when you measure SRAM 12 speed (even non-flat top) you really need to use a chain checker that uses the same roller side to measure wear, like the Park Tool CC-4.
what about the same kmc 12 speed chain with SRAM force xplr? SRAM officially says to only use their flattop chains but I'm at least partly assuming that's because they want you to buy their products
Would you recommend clean the chain before installing? I've found very difficult to clean my drivetrain if the stock "lubricant" is not removed before installing, I'd like to know your opinions since I've had that same discussion with the guys at the bike shop and they argue not to clean the chain before installing. Thanks
After I install a new chain, I take a ride with rubbing alcohol and wipe off the coating . Then I ride it for 2 to 3 rides before I put in a chain lube on it.
KMC IS THE BEST
Never add a link to a chain. It creates a weak spot in the chain. The pins are slightly mushroomed. When removing the pin the mushroomed end of the pin is flattened making it weaker than it was originally. This increases the risk of the chain breaking. I’ve seen this on BMX when people adjust the chain length by driving the pin back in as opposed to using the master link. In BMX if the chain breaks coming out of the gate it will result in a face plant in the dirt. On a mountain or road bike it’s usually not that devastating but still risky. It’s probably best to get the chain exchanged and start over. Do you remove all of the factory grease when you replace the chain?
Just a heads up the CC-2 is really unreliable. The go-no go checkers are much more accurate.
YES, I've found the same thing to be true. Use the solid steel stamped gauge.
I have tried that chain on x01 mechanical system, it was terrible. Bad shifting and chain noise. I have replaced with SRAM chain and everything back to normal. My bike master told be that not all bike works well with that KMC chain, and he not install it any more. In addition I had KMC chain on my road bike, after 1000 km I had link broken
I've found the KMC chains to be less crisp than the SRAM stuff across 3 bikes....perhaps my AXS derrailleurs are a bit more finnicky.
Hi Clint
Great video as always, do you (or somebody else here) have used this chain with a mixed drivetrain ?
In my case y have a crankset and chain ring NX and all the rest is Shimano SLX and XT, any comment will help .
👍
so you ride it with packing grease?
I strip it off as best I can with rubbing alcohol and a rag. Then I’ll wait a few rides before I put my normal chain lube on it.
I tried a KMC chain on my Sram 11 Speed X01 drivetrain and it did not work, even though KMC said it was fully compatible.
same
I'm not convinced kmc 12 speed work well with sram. I have had great results using them with shimano but that was 11 speed. I tried one kmc 12 speed on my Trance trail bike but have gone back to sram gx. Wear was about the same but kmc just seemed noisier and didn't mesh as well to the cassette. My bike mechanic tells me the X01 chains which are double the price of Gx last 2-3 times longer. Any experience with that?
I haven’t done a direct comparison with X0 and GX chains
Dylan Johnson did an interview with Zero Friction Cycling and they actually found SRAM chains to test the worse for watt losses. If I remember correctly KMC topped SRAM. For racing you might actually be better off with KMC not just for longevity.
KMC's last much less than SRAM chains. XX1 and X01s are the longest lasting chains out there. I am putting a YBN chain just for the races. I have 5-6 SRAM chains that I cycle. I use the oldest for the winter and muddy months, and the previous race chains for training. I also wax the chains, twice every year, for all of my bikes. That's probably why none of my chains shows wear on the park meter. SRAM says to change the chain at 0.5mm not 0.75 - but since your tool is skewed that's probably fine
NO idea on SRAM but when I had this chain on Shimano drive train it was trash. Loud. Shifting was clunky and while pedaling it was making metallic sounds. After changing it to Shimano XT chain all went away. QUiet with precise shifting. Plus I could change gears uphill with Glide + which was not possible with KMC chain. Not recommended for Shimano x12 drive trains.
The side plates actually do "stretch over time" as proven when you lay a new chain along side of your worn chain. This is a miniscule measurement distributed across 100+ side plates. The real wear failure happens on the OD and ID of the rollers as they contact the cogs and the chain pins, and that's just my opinion!
Best chain in my opinion I wouldn't use anything else.
Best , I use the same.
With the price of a X01 cassette I’d replace chains all day long.
What degreaser do you use?
Simple Green or Super Clean
Bought 3 KMC x12s and they were all fake. First was on the bike and snapped after 30 miles destroying the cassette and derailleur. I'd check the legitimacy of the chain
Is there a way to check if it is fake? I always had good experience with e10 kmc chains but when I used e12 no my new bike it sucked from the first ride.....My drivetrain was also new....and I never buy from ebay, always big reliable shops.
@@mallias2683 mine were from reliable retailers. I contacted KMC via email they asked for pictures of the chain and packaging from that they were able to determine they were fake. I believe they have or had an picture on their site to help but mine looked exactly like a KMC chain with the chamfered edges etc
Yeah, I got a fake 11s KMC from eBay. Fortunately I still had the old packaging from previous KMC chains, and I could see some of the fonts were slightly different on the pkg. The main tip-off I had was that it wouldn’t even go into more than 6-8 teeth on the chainring. Just make sure you get your chain from a reputable source.
@@michaelshoaf878 mine came from reputable sources so even they aren't immune
I got 2 shimano fakes. 1 on ebay and 1 on Aliexpress. Sticking with local bike shop now. Its not worth the money saved on a life or death component. I feel dumb now trying to save a few bucks when my bike is worth $6k.
Never use KMC chains on SRAM 12 speed. Will cause premature wear and poor shifting.
Don't size based on the old chain. What if the length is wrong of the existing chain? What if you don't have a chain? Too much talking just show us how to.
Right. I actually cut a new one too short trying to eyeball it. The Shimano 12 speed chains are easy to measure following Shimanos instructions. On 12-Speed its important to get it right. Not as forgiving as 10 speed.
Dont use kmc chains. They are universal chains that dont actually fit any single drivetrain. Although kmc manufactures chains for Shimano, they have different specifications.
I have been using x11 on my roubaix with 11s Ultegra Mechanical and always change at .75 but recently they just do net seem to be lasting very long and get very noisy when they do wear. I am going to try shimano again to compare.
I may try a x12 on my Spec SJ when it is worn to compare that as well. So this vid will definitely help me decide Cheers 🚵🏼🚴🏼👏👍🇺🇸🇬🇧
👍👍👍