If my memory is correct, slx is the first one from the bottom with hollow crank arms. And when compared to competition in weight to price is the absolutely best choice and big saving
Deore doesn't have it stated, but its arms are hollow too, comparing the pictures of both I can't see any difference in construction. Am I missing something or?
@@tduic hollowtech 2 cranks have a void internally. The deore ones are externally hollow. The former should make it stiffer for a given weight. Easier to clean mud off too!
@@spdnik2568Externally hollow?? Try comparing pictures of both cranksets and see if there is any difference. Shimano produces "internally" hollow cranks for the last 15 years or so.
@@tduic sorry not trying to start an argument. Look at the specs on shimano website dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-FC-M6100-1-4669A.pdf the deore crank is open at the back.
Thanks Ben, good to round out the drivetrain components and it's been a super informative series. Have you considered doing a follow up comparing CUES to Deore - some say they are one and the same but there seems to be some differences so would be interested in your insights.
Broke my SLX crank set riding in Pisgah last summer. The left crank stripped out and both pedals were on the down position going down the trail. Rock strikes EVERYWHERE! HA!. Took it to The Hub bike shop down the road from the trail and had them put on a set of Deore cranks. I can't tell the difference.
My bike came with Deore cranks, I couldn't understand the different chain ring mounting and planned on OneUp Switch rings so I just ordered the SLX to be safe. The weight difference is very noticeable in the hand. Of course it was as supply tanked with Covid so 165 was no where to be found and I'm now wishing I waited. The weight is mostly in the arms.
The street price of SLX and XT are pretty close. The difference between the XT and XTR without the chainring is 50gr. I have the XT and I’m using a Works Components chainring.
I have a boost frame, but the recommended chainline is 52. So always check the manual. Some chainring sizes might be too big for your chain stay. Small ones like 28 might make the chain rub.
Had the Deore and fitted a XT. The XT got a different type of mounting the chainring and therefore way more options. Also the shape of the XT arm is a bit different and got factory protection, the Deore looks worn after a few rides. Go for the best of the cheapest go for SLX
My question is is last year’s XT better than this year’s SLX? As price is prolly close? As usually see previous years at a sale price. Thanks for the great review.
In terms of weight savings, I would prioritize the cassette vs the crank arms. But if you have the money go nuts. My bikes are all a combination of Deore/SLX
Thank you for the great videos and clearing up a lot of mystery surrounding components. Since I don’t want to have to deal with the microspline do your observations apply to the 11 speed versions?
Not quite the answer you're looking for, but I'm pretty sure you can run a 12-speed Shimano crankset with an 11-speed Shimano cassette and chain. Haven't done it myself, but that seems to be the consensus among those who've tried.
If we were to do a deeper dive. Deore dont use hollow cranks, like SLX and above, hence the significant weight increase. XTR also uses a more reliable mounting method, whereas XT and below use the less reliable two pinch bolts mounting style. When it comes to the chainrings, you cant actually swap the XT/SLX ones without removing the spider, even though it looks like it. They use security torx heads, so in theory yes, but in practice Shimano dont want you to.
thanks for breakdown. hardly anybody mentions Q-factor. though probably not possible I want narrow cranks comparable to my gravel bike which is 151mm. FYI Shimano lists XTR Q-factor as 168mm. so 2mm difference per side - not much at all.
Agreed, 150g is a lot even if the bike was to weight 15kg. It is rotational mass, saving weight there is important, as long as it is not like paying double the price to shave 11g of the 600g component. Definitely the best cranks and casette for the price come from SLX. 150g of rotational mass less for just 44$. It is a good deal. If you are on a tight budget the deore will be fine.
I've seen a vid where a guy thought he overtightened the pedal resulting in failure. But I am skeptical to his analysis. He blames himself but I had issue with epdal falling off on M552 cranks which were old version of non series line, which was unbranded Deore crank. Back in 2014. So I won't be surprised if they use same cheesenium. It was very weak. So va dit should be illegal to make and sell. So I was afraid of Deore cranks after I saw one confirmed case of failure on current model.
@@badbattleaxe5832 that’s very close to what I came up with as well. Deore or SLX cassette are both good options. XT shifter is my go to, but some prefer the SLX since it’s not as hard to shift with your thumb. And the Deore or SLX derailleurs seem to be the best value and you can spring for the XT sealed bearing jockey wheels to throw in the Deore or SLX once the stock unsealed ones wear out!
Super boost is NOT a fat bike standard it’s for 29er or built to be more robust for dh or made to make have to deal with another standard and spend money it’s 157 rear while most fat bikes use a 197 rear
Super boost is also for DH bikes. For many years. I never meet deore shorter than 175mm.There are 170, but its hard to find. Rest have also 165mm and even shorter options.
Forgot about downhill bikes! And Shimano claims you can get 165, 170, and 175mm Deore cranksets, but realistically I mainly only see 170 and 175mm options for sale.
Not neccessarily. I bought a few SLX cranksets on clearance recently and they all came with a chainring. Some SLX and XT cranks from the same place didn't include the chainring, but I had the impression they were OEM parts. Check the description, as always.
One thing the XTR has over the others is much simpler installation and removal, this system is i think more expensive to make. I would buy Deore with my money but that simpler installation is a factor as well
I’ve personally installed XT’s, SLX & XTR’s…they install exactly the same. They are all a pinch design with two bolts to secure the arm to the spindle. The center bolt is for adjusting preload before securing the pinch bolts. Same bottom bracket(s). Exactly the same. 🤘🏻
@@marcmaddox2903 maybe that was the old XTR, the one i have has no pinch bolts i think it was bought in 2023. You can look into the manual there you can find the XTR crankset installation is different to the rest
Yep! You are correct. I hadn’t paid attention to the new FC-M9120’s. My apologies. I would argue that that style attachment (SRAM style) isn’t necessarily easier… kinda cool to see them differentiate the XTR’s from the others though. 🤘🏻
@@Bikes-with-Ben that's a problem, some bike manufacturers still put different crankarm lenghts depends on a frame size, but if you read some reaseach papers, you will discover that in fact shorter crankarms are better (not only for less rock strikes) for acceleration, technical climbs etc. and it doesn't affect your power.
I bought the XT because it was only 15% more expensive than the SLX on sale and yes, the XT inscription looks much cooler than the SLX. I may have overpaid, but I’m happy with my choice))) p.s. Deore and Сues is boring and too heavy.
I don’t really have one yet.. I’ve been focusing on their 12 speed lineup since that’s what I ride. I do think it would be interesting to compare the 11 and 12 speed offerings in more detail to see what the real difference is.
@@Bikes-with-Ben The reason I ask is I want to upgrade the drive train on my Scott Aspect 3x9 Alivio group set. I know, the bike is not the slickest on the market, but it is a daily do everything bike from mountain trails, small jumps (with rear rack and kick stand), shopping, commuting, touring/camping, towing a trailer and riding with my wife and 11 year old son along the local bike paths. At 64 years old and an ex club racer, both road and track, I no longer need or have a use for the slickest bike on the market. My thinking regarding the Cues is the U6000 group set, as I can run it as a 2x11, 2x10 or 1x11, 1x10 (aren't 1x's a track bike?) and larger chainrings as it will be/is compatible with the Cues road bike offerings (if I read correctly). From what I have read the Cues U6000 offers more versatility in that regard.
@Frombie_01 I’ll definitely have to look into it, I think there is value there for a lot of people in the CUES lineup. It’s going to take me a while though to get over the Creating Unique ExperienceS acronym 😂
@@Bikes-with-BenHeavier but with slightly wider valleys for the teeth on the rear cassette (wear resistance concept) . The rear derailleur and shifter have a specific actuation ratio . I have installed a few over the past month (10/11) iterations . The shifting is a bit slower but more defined with pedalec elevated torque levels in a modest price package in mind as the demographic . I hope my early plunge on this family of components has opened the door of insights a bit .
I heard from my known and trusted bike mechanic that they shift pretty slow, since the casettes have only one place where the chain can drop on each rotation. You wrote about 3x9 alivio, the cues wouldnt really be an upgrade.
Generally, narrower chainline = better shifting, especially into the lower gears. Unfortunately, Shimano goes with a standardized 52mm chainline on their new cranks to avoid frame interference problems. You need to go to aftermarket chainrings to get one with more offset (narrower chainline). While I prefer Shimano in every other way, SRAM does offer their chainrings with different offsets, so you can chan choose the narrowest chainline that works for your bike.
Let me add that just because you have a boost frame doesn't mean that you have to run a 52 mm chainline. I have run a 49 mm chainline on several boost frames, with much better shifting as a result.
I miss the old days when mountain bikes had front rings over 40 teeth and some 46 or 48 tooth. That, paired with a 10 or 11 tooth small cog in the rear would let you really rip fast down hills. Nowadays, bikes seem to be really limited on that top end speed capability, due to their restrictive single front ring set ups with low 30s tooth count. You just simply cannot pedal as fast as you once used to be able to. What are we supposed to do?
I love how you start talking about chainline 'measurement' and just use marketing terms rather than numbers... You also say "I dunno" an awful lot for a video supposedly offering advice...
Plastic anything for chainrings , no - way given that yesteryear's premium chainrings were 7075 or 6061 . Swap to AL - 7075 no matter what . This is Shimano price gouging again .
@@Bikes-with-BenBen ! " the SPIDER ARMS ARE A FACTOR FOR FLEX AND DURABILITY . This has raised eyebrows / concerns on local discussions in Australia . Why did Blackspire stick with alloy aftermarket ones , for example ? Vuelta /'Stronglight the same story . I have these versions and they are more durable than the Shimano ones. Point made .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 then don't buy XT? A company will price its product to a price that the customers are willing to pay for, it would be dumb if they didn't. If people are willing to pay such prices for XT then Shimano will price it like that, if not then they'd be forced to reduce price to move inventory. Ezpz
so, let me get this straight. you have no clue besides the weight and price table content and make reccomendations for users what to buy. No clue about what is the strenght of the cranks, how much abuse they can handle before they snap, mounting of pedals, mounting on the axle, if they feel more solid under pressure, if they bend, if they have some lateral movement after xy miles,.. nothing.. no more info, no testing, no internet research. if I would be shimano, I would sue you for this bullsh*t. "quality content" here .. .. guys, why to buy a top aston martin, when mazda miata has also 4 wheels and costs 300k less. waste of money..
All of these crankets use anodized aluminum crankarms and plated steel crank axles. They all use Shimano's Hollowtech II design and all mount to the same style bottom bracket. All of the chainrings use Shimano's Dynamic Chain Engagement+ tech too to keep the chain from jumping off. There aren't too many differences to talk about on these things besides price and weight. (Oh as far as "mounting of pedals" is concerned, you're in luck, because all of these support "mounting of pedals". And thats a good thing, because you're gonna want those...)
@@Bikes-with-Ben so no steel or titanium thread insert - pedals topic. no improved strength, no forged parts. same alloy. no difference in structure. the deore crankset can take the same abuse as xt or xtr is just 220 grams (or whatever the number was) heavier? when I jump on the bike and snap the deore crank, the same thing would happen with an XT set? sure?
I don't think that Deore use Hollowtech. Just SLC, it, xtr. For me the most important part you didn't showed, and it's when you have to swap a new chainring. The type of attachment and tools you need. It's not so simple @@Bikes-with-Ben
If my memory is correct, slx is the first one from the bottom with hollow crank arms. And when compared to competition in weight to price is the absolutely best choice and big saving
Definitely feel hollowtech 2 is a factor that should’ve been mentioned.
Deore doesn't have it stated, but its arms are hollow too, comparing the pictures of both I can't see any difference in construction. Am I missing something or?
@@tduic hollowtech 2 cranks have a void internally. The deore ones are externally hollow. The former should make it stiffer for a given weight. Easier to clean mud off too!
@@spdnik2568Externally hollow?? Try comparing pictures of both cranksets and see if there is any difference. Shimano produces "internally" hollow cranks for the last 15 years or so.
@@tduic sorry not trying to start an argument. Look at the specs on shimano website dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-FC-M6100-1-4669A.pdf the deore crank is open at the back.
Another shout out for SLX being the best bang for the buck - 150g savings for $40 is pretty good in the weight weenie world.
SLX is definetely the Best value.
Thanks for doing such an informative series on the Shimano drivetrain components!
Great series, please keep doing it with brakes and break leavers and maby also bottom brackets
Thanks Ben, good to round out the drivetrain components and it's been a super informative series. Have you considered doing a follow up comparing CUES to Deore - some say they are one and the same but there seems to be some differences so would be interested in your insights.
Enough people have asked for it that I’d like to do a comparison for sure. First though I think I’m going to compare SRAMs 12 speed drivetrain lineup.
That’s would be great when you compare across to Shimano.
This is a very interesting series to watch.
Believe it or not... it's a good review. straightforward. thanks
Broke my SLX crank set riding in Pisgah last summer. The left crank stripped out and both pedals were on the down position going down the trail. Rock strikes EVERYWHERE! HA!. Took it to The Hub bike shop down the road from the trail and had them put on a set of Deore cranks. I can't tell the difference.
Man I love this series ❤
My bike came with Deore cranks, I couldn't understand the different chain ring mounting and planned on OneUp Switch rings so I just ordered the SLX to be safe. The weight difference is very noticeable in the hand. Of course it was as supply tanked with Covid so 165 was no where to be found and I'm now wishing I waited. The weight is mostly in the arms.
The street price of SLX and XT are pretty close. The difference between the XT and XTR without the chainring is 50gr. I have the XT and I’m using a Works Components chainring.
The slx cranks are lighter than the xt cranks this generation
Great move .7075 ones are best .
I have a boost frame, but the recommended chainline is 52. So always check the manual.
Some chainring sizes might be too big for your chain stay. Small ones like 28 might make the chain rub.
Hey Ben will we see a comparison on the brake lineup aswell?
Definitely! I wanted to finished up the drivetrain parts first and I plan to do Shimano brakes after that.
Thanks Ben. I love this type of videos.
I hope you'll do something also about brakes.
Great series so far 🤙
Had the Deore and fitted a XT. The XT got a different type of mounting the chainring and therefore way more options. Also the shape of the XT arm is a bit different and got factory protection, the Deore looks worn after a few rides. Go for the best of the cheapest go for SLX
You can get crankarm protectors .
XT wears away too but slower .
Greats videos Ben, keep em coming 👏
I got a pretty heavy used pair of xt m8000 cranks for 20$ and repainted them myself. Best steal I ever made on bike parts...
I love your sweatshirt design ❤ !
My question is is last year’s XT better than this year’s SLX? As price is prolly close? As usually see previous years at a sale price. Thanks for the great review.
If it is lighter then it is.
In terms of weight savings, I would prioritize the cassette vs the crank arms. But if you have the money go nuts. My bikes are all a combination of Deore/SLX
I would prioritize the rider's weight, always
Thank you for the great videos and clearing up a lot of mystery surrounding components.
Since I don’t want to have to deal with the microspline do your observations apply to the 11 speed versions?
Not quite the answer you're looking for, but I'm pretty sure you can run a 12-speed Shimano crankset with an 11-speed Shimano cassette and chain. Haven't done it myself, but that seems to be the consensus among those who've tried.
If we were to do a deeper dive. Deore dont use hollow cranks, like SLX and above, hence the significant weight increase. XTR also uses a more reliable mounting method, whereas XT and below use the less reliable two pinch bolts mounting style. When it comes to the chainrings, you cant actually swap the XT/SLX ones without removing the spider, even though it looks like it. They use security torx heads, so in theory yes, but in practice Shimano dont want you to.
I have the tooling / bits to undo these .
Thats the videos we need : no lies and fear opinion .
Love your content.
thanks for breakdown. hardly anybody mentions Q-factor. though probably not possible I want narrow cranks comparable to my gravel bike which is 151mm.
FYI Shimano lists XTR Q-factor as 168mm. so 2mm difference per side - not much at all.
Isn’t the Deore 5100 11 speed crank almost an even better option because it has a built in spider to install standard chainrings?
The best shavings on weight must be on your wheels that definitely will make you faster thanks for sharing👍
You have really been a gem
I got confused by some of the comments.
Do not all 4 cranksets use the same direct-mount chain-ring mount? Which one uses which standard?!?
In my Opinion.
The best bang for buck is the SLX
absolutely
Agreed, 150g is a lot even if the bike was to weight 15kg. It is rotational mass, saving weight there is important, as long as it is not like paying double the price to shave 11g of the 600g component. Definitely the best cranks and casette for the price come from SLX. 150g of rotational mass less for just 44$. It is a good deal. If you are on a tight budget the deore will be fine.
It'll be nice if you can compare some BBs :)
I've seen a vid where a guy thought he overtightened the pedal resulting in failure. But I am skeptical to his analysis. He blames himself but I had issue with epdal falling off on M552 cranks which were old version of non series line, which was unbranded Deore crank. Back in 2014. So I won't be surprised if they use same cheesenium. It was very weak.
So va dit should be illegal to make and sell.
So I was afraid of Deore cranks after I saw one confirmed case of failure on current model.
Have you take in consideration grinding the crank to make it lighter?
@@mghuertas I have not. It’s light enough for what I need, no need to put that effort in just to save a few grams imo
you should do one on bottom brackets :)
Deore crankset
SLX cassette
XT shifter
XT derailer
XTR chain
Best bang for your buck set up
@@badbattleaxe5832 that’s very close to what I came up with as well. Deore or SLX cassette are both good options. XT shifter is my go to, but some prefer the SLX since it’s not as hard to shift with your thumb. And the Deore or SLX derailleurs seem to be the best value and you can spring for the XT sealed bearing jockey wheels to throw in the Deore or SLX once the stock unsealed ones wear out!
Super boost is NOT a fat bike standard it’s for 29er or built to be more robust for dh or made to make have to deal with another standard and spend money it’s 157 rear while most fat bikes use a 197 rear
Super boost is also for DH bikes. For many years.
I never meet deore shorter than 175mm.There are 170, but its hard to find. Rest have also 165mm and even shorter options.
Forgot about downhill bikes! And Shimano claims you can get 165, 170, and 175mm Deore cranksets, but realistically I mainly only see 170 and 175mm options for sale.
Deore comes with the chainring and slx and above you have to add it separately?!
Not neccessarily. I bought a few SLX cranksets on clearance recently and they all came with a chainring. Some SLX and XT cranks from the same place didn't include the chainring, but I had the impression they were OEM parts. Check the description, as always.
Does the Deore weight include the weight of the chainring it comes with?
Yep, each of the weights are based on a 32T chainring installed. The Google Sheet spells out the weight with each specific chainring too.
@@Bikes-with-Ben Aha! Thank you.
Any plans to do SRAM?
It would be really useful
Funny sweater 🤘🏻
One thing the XTR has over the others is much simpler installation and removal, this system is i think more expensive to make. I would buy Deore with my money but that simpler installation is a factor as well
The entire Shimano Hollowtech crank lineup installs exactly the same.
@@marcmaddox2903 my point is coming from the Crankset manual directly from shimano
I’ve personally installed XT’s, SLX & XTR’s…they install exactly the same. They are all a pinch design with two bolts to secure the arm to the spindle. The center bolt is for adjusting preload before securing the pinch bolts. Same bottom bracket(s). Exactly the same. 🤘🏻
@@marcmaddox2903 maybe that was the old XTR, the one i have has no pinch bolts i think it was bought in 2023. You can look into the manual there you can find the XTR crankset installation is different to the rest
Yep! You are correct. I hadn’t paid attention to the new FC-M9120’s. My apologies. I would argue that that style attachment (SRAM style) isn’t necessarily easier… kinda cool to see them differentiate the XTR’s from the others though. 🤘🏻
Best bang for your buck is SLX period.
175 was 'typical' 10 years ago. On analog MTB 170mm is most popular now, or even less. and it doesn't really depend on a frame size.
Good to know! And I didn’t mean to say it depended on frame size, but meant it was a decision of what fits you best like choosing a frame size is.
@@Bikes-with-Ben that's a problem, some bike manufacturers still put different crankarm lenghts depends on a frame size, but if you read some reaseach papers, you will discover that in fact shorter crankarms are better (not only for less rock strikes) for acceleration, technical climbs etc. and it doesn't affect your power.
Still most of the bikes have 175 with frames in size medium or bigger.
@@jurekgadzinowski2895 maybe some basic XC bikes....
If only I could find SLX cranks in 165mm......
good series!
I bought the XT because it was only 15% more expensive than the SLX on sale and yes, the XT inscription looks much cooler than the SLX. I may have overpaid, but I’m happy with my choice)))
p.s. Deore and Сues is boring and too heavy.
If you can get the XT for only 15% more then you might as well!
Boring? Lol
@@sepg5084 Yes boring. Nothing interesting about them, just some entry level stuff.
Only issue with the slx is the ghost blue goofy color.
Personal prefference, some will like it, some wouldnt.
You do such a long video, and don’t know the diffence (HT II) between SLX and Deore?????
I have the XTR model and I agree with you, totally not worth it 😂 it is only if you're a weight weenie and you have the money or if you're racing.
how about brakes?
Coming soon!
XT HANDS DOWN! Will never run any other brake. The immediate bite you get from XT brakes compared to Sram is bar none..
But what is your opinion on Shimano cues?
I don’t really have one yet.. I’ve been focusing on their 12 speed lineup since that’s what I ride. I do think it would be interesting to compare the 11 and 12 speed offerings in more detail to see what the real difference is.
@@Bikes-with-Ben The reason I ask is I want to upgrade the drive train on my Scott Aspect 3x9 Alivio group set. I know, the bike is not the slickest on the market, but it is a daily do everything bike from mountain trails, small jumps (with rear rack and kick stand), shopping, commuting, touring/camping, towing a trailer and riding with my wife and 11 year old son along the local bike paths.
At 64 years old and an ex club racer, both road and track, I no longer need or have a use for the slickest bike on the market.
My thinking regarding the Cues is the U6000 group set, as I can run it as a 2x11, 2x10 or 1x11, 1x10 (aren't 1x's a track bike?) and larger chainrings as it will be/is compatible with the Cues road bike offerings (if I read correctly). From what I have read the Cues U6000 offers more versatility in that regard.
@Frombie_01 I’ll definitely have to look into it, I think there is value there for a lot of people in the CUES lineup. It’s going to take me a while though to get over the Creating Unique ExperienceS acronym 😂
@@Bikes-with-BenHeavier but with slightly wider valleys for the teeth on the rear cassette (wear resistance concept) . The rear derailleur and shifter have a specific actuation ratio . I have installed a few over the past month (10/11) iterations . The shifting is a bit slower but more defined with pedalec elevated torque levels in a modest price package in mind as the demographic . I hope my early plunge on this family of components has opened the door of insights a bit .
I heard from my known and trusted bike mechanic that they shift pretty slow, since the casettes have only one place where the chain can drop on each rotation. You wrote about 3x9 alivio, the cues wouldnt really be an upgrade.
Generally, narrower chainline = better shifting, especially into the lower gears. Unfortunately, Shimano goes with a standardized 52mm chainline on their new cranks to avoid frame interference problems. You need to go to aftermarket chainrings to get one with more offset (narrower chainline). While I prefer Shimano in every other way, SRAM does offer their chainrings with different offsets, so you can chan choose the narrowest chainline that works for your bike.
Let me add that just because you have a boost frame doesn't mean that you have to run a 52 mm chainline. I have run a 49 mm chainline on several boost frames, with much better shifting as a result.
So in conclusion.
The deore became toooooooooo good for its price.
I also run a deore except the hubs because I don't want the center lock thingy.
Just get the Deore cranks and cut your long seatpost shorter to give you less grams. 😂
No matter what type of latest version of tech u use , how expensive they were, but your riding skill wasn't good , no point at all..just my thought
I miss the old days when mountain bikes had front rings over 40 teeth and some 46 or 48 tooth. That, paired with a 10 or 11 tooth small cog in the rear would let you really rip fast down hills. Nowadays, bikes seem to be really limited on that top end speed capability, due to their restrictive single front ring set ups with low 30s tooth count. You just simply cannot pedal as fast as you once used to be able to. What are we supposed to do?
I love how you start talking about chainline 'measurement' and just use marketing terms rather than numbers...
You also say "I dunno" an awful lot for a video supposedly offering advice...
Plastic anything for chainrings , no - way given that yesteryear's premium chainrings were 7075 or 6061 . Swap to AL - 7075 no matter what . This is Shimano price gouging again .
It’s not the actual chainring. The chainring on XT and down is steel. The XTR runs an aluminum chainring.
@@Bikes-with-BenBen ! " the SPIDER ARMS ARE A FACTOR FOR FLEX AND DURABILITY . This has raised eyebrows / concerns on local discussions in Australia . Why did Blackspire stick with alloy aftermarket ones , for example ? Vuelta /'Stronglight the same story . I have these versions and they are more durable than the Shimano ones. Point made .
See top post for original discussion and middle one for extra clarity .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 then don't buy XT? A company will price its product to a price that the customers are willing to pay for, it would be dumb if they didn't. If people are willing to pay such prices for XT then Shimano will price it like that, if not then they'd be forced to reduce price to move inventory. Ezpz
so, let me get this straight. you have no clue besides the weight and price table content and make reccomendations for users what to buy. No clue about what is the strenght of the cranks, how much abuse they can handle before they snap, mounting of pedals, mounting on the axle, if they feel more solid under pressure, if they bend, if they have some lateral movement after xy miles,.. nothing.. no more info, no testing, no internet research. if I would be shimano, I would sue you for this bullsh*t. "quality content" here
..
..
guys, why to buy a top aston martin, when mazda miata has also 4 wheels and costs 300k less. waste of money..
All of these crankets use anodized aluminum crankarms and plated steel crank axles. They all use Shimano's Hollowtech II design and all mount to the same style bottom bracket. All of the chainrings use Shimano's Dynamic Chain Engagement+ tech too to keep the chain from jumping off. There aren't too many differences to talk about on these things besides price and weight. (Oh as far as "mounting of pedals" is concerned, you're in luck, because all of these support "mounting of pedals". And thats a good thing, because you're gonna want those...)
@@Bikes-with-Ben so no steel or titanium thread insert - pedals topic. no improved strength, no forged parts. same alloy. no difference in structure. the deore crankset can take the same abuse as xt or xtr is just 220 grams (or whatever the number was) heavier?
when I jump on the bike and snap the deore crank, the same thing would happen with an XT set? sure?
I don't think that Deore use Hollowtech. Just SLC, it, xtr. For me the most important part you didn't showed, and it's when you have to swap a new chainring. The type of attachment and tools you need. It's not so simple
@@Bikes-with-Ben
Strenght? What are you a ~200lbs biker or a +400lbs hippo? These cranks can stand more than the weight limit for most bikes.
@@Chester690TT If you jump on the bike and the crank snaps, it means that you are way too heavy to ride any bikes.