As a fellow fully trained bike mechanic myself, it’s great to see pro mechanic tool choices. Park seem to be the favourite for a lot of people, and I’ve got some great ones, but I’ve found Unior tools to be excellent especially their Pro wheel truing stand as the guides also give great rim dish alignment as well as where to spoke tension. Always looking to see what’s missing from my collection. Pro level tools can last decades. I’ve got a Campag 15mm pedal spanner from 1988 still going strong!
I've been feeling the same way about some of Abbey Tools. Their HAG is the best derailleur alignment tool in the industry, full stop. But I also understand that it is price prohibitive to most people who aren't pros. There are a bunch of great brands that have great tools and no brand is the best at everything. Park, Abbey, Unior, Wera, Hozan, Lezyne and a whole bunch more.
My choice for pedal wrench has to be Eldi. Believe I’ve had mine for 30 years and still going strong. Small caveat though. The need is not as ubiquitous as it used to be.
Using the derailleur alignment tool, I don't think it matters if your wheels isn't completely true if you use the same reference point on on the wheel (e.g. the valve) and rotate the wheel with the alignment tool. That's what Park Tool recommend in their instruction video anyway.
@@Durwood71depends on how often you have a bent hanger. Like, if you have kids, an alignment tool may be the way to go. Although I tend to recommend to customers, to just don't get their kids bikes with a derailleur. Not even necessarily because their kids would be careless. Most bent derailleur hangers on kid's bikes I encounter are because someone else is raising their kid wrong. Same thing with untrue wheels on kid's bikes. Often it's just another kid kicking into the spokes, stuff along those lines. Especially on the nicer ones of these bikes, there will be that little shit who's jealous.
@@Durwood71 if you buy new one and install it on your bike it can still be off - just because every part has some fabrication tolerance and sometimes those tolerances of frame and derailleur hanger can sum up to pretty impressive value.
@@andrzejwolkowicz7867 I have never encountered a situation where a brand new derailleur hanger needed to be aligned, and if your frame is mangled to the point where you have to tweak every new hanger into alignment, then it's probably time to buy a new bike.
I have had new ones that are a bit off. I always carry a spare, especially on long trips. I check the one on the bike, swap it for the spare, then check that for alignment and keep the original as the new spare. That way, I f I snap one in the middle of nowhere I know the spare will not stuff up the gear alignment.
Perhaps I am not sufficiently sophisticated (I work on walmart-grade bikes) but a set of cone wrenches comes in handy should an axle have too much play (or a bent one needs to be replaced) or if bearing regrease is needed.
There's not a lot but still some crossover with certain automotive tools that can save you some money or give you more options, like with torque wrenches, allen sockets on ratchets (better leverage) and various kinds of drivers with the right bits. My 1/4" Tekton torque wrench cost way less than the Park Tool one. And, I'll admit to the cardinal sin of using a power tool on a bike, specifically to remove a really tight crank arm using a standard crank arm removal tool and impact wrench on its lowest setting and blipped briefly to prevent stripping the threads (after applying penetrating oil). That think one on for years and no amount of manual effort was getting it off so I had no choice. Came up instantly and no damage. I noticed the wheel truing tool at the far end of the bench that, while a bit more advanced, might have been worth a quick discussion. I've had a very basic one for over 20 years but have never needed to use it as my Mavic Cosmos wheels were built like tanks and have never gone out of true.
Good tools - I would add a crank puller and a bottom bracket bearing tool to suit your own particular setup. And don't use the ball-end hex tools on tight fasteners!
It was great to see a bike mechanic where not every tool was a Park Tool. The rear derailleur alignment tool was a CRC brand. Also noticed the CRC truing stand in the background. I have the same equipment at home. Yes I have Park Tools and love them. The Park Tool truing stand and hanger alignment tool are not cheap and made for the professional bike mechanic. The secret to smooth gear changing is a straight rear wheel and the rear Derailleur hanger must be aligned to the rear wheel.
All good advice. Ive been doing my own maintenance for many years and gradually built up a decent tool kit. My advice is to really invest in good quality tools - they will pay you back many times over. You can do damage with cheap, poor quality tools. Finally, the chain wear tool shown is the best type (as is the Park CC-4).
I know that most people who tryvto fix their bike can "feel" what torque they apply. But you sometimes need to retighten your screws and doing that with the wrong torque can get expensive real fast. I know people who would never change their chain but have gladly invested in a torque wrench (not an expensive one, only to get the torque +/-1 nm correct).
If you check your chain with a chain checker too often, you're gonna wear out your chain checker; so you really need a chain checker checker to make sure your chain checker is still checking chains correctly.
I finally got the nice park chain breaker after 50 years of cycling to replace all my cheap breakers. I don't even use it now that all new chains come with quick links. So my quick link tool gets all the work nowadays. I'm surprised you didn't have cone wrenches in the list.
Yeah, SRAM cranks at 54Nm are a real pain. I got a length of rectangular section aluminum tube that would fit over the crank arm, with a bit of gaffer tape padding inside it to protect the carbon. It works well and gives you a lot more leverage. I occasionally find other uses for it, like a straight edge, cutting guide etc. one of my useful home made tools.
The accuracy of a torque wrench (calibration) is becoming more relevant as components become more sophisticated. Also important that the torque wrench doesn't allow you to continue to torque a bolt once it's bleeped/clicked, I know some do.
As a kid, I got a second hand bike and rode it for years, as it was how all my mates got around too, every day. I toured Scotland on it, 50m a day in mostly rainy weather! But, check chain wear, and replace chain?? Everyone's bike, when it eventually fell apart/gave up the ghost, went to the dump still with its original chain!
As he said, new components are getting lighter. That means thinner, less dense material. That directly impacts durability and service intervals. Also, children weigh less and can generate less force than adults.
My favorite tool is a tool I bought immediatly I found it because I had thought of why there wasn't anyone crafting something like it, and by dumb luck I just came across it as I scrolled for other tools. It's the Shimano TL-MH10 multi-handle tool which basically is a bit overpriced breaker bar that is shaped in a specific way so you with ease can make sure it aligns the interface with the grip on the same plane to reduce the chance of slipping off for when you are mounting/dismounting a bottom bracket for example. Its shape also reduces the chance of smacking into any parts of the frame which is an added bonus. I know it is overpriced and quite frankly I personally just did not care. I love special tools like this where someone have truly cared, and for what it's worth it is most likely going to last for the rest of your life because it's a solid quality item.
Thanks for the insights. Great! I would disagree with the ranking but this varies with customers😂. Certainly, the maintenance assessment by chain wear had me smiling. Same goes for tyres and break pads. Some people do not believe in wear and tear. 😢
Definitely get a torque wrench if you are doing ANYTHING with a carbon fiber bicycle. You'll need one to do up the thru-axle on some models. I got a Park Tools ATD-1 as it covers 4-6 nm and uses various hex key "plug-ins". You can find a socket adapter and use it for nuts in some cases. The beam type torque wrench is essential for major bicycle repairs.
Eklind 55198 T-handled hex wrenchs. 9'', especially 5mm. no ball heads for me. Felco C7 cable cutters are the only one I'll use. After resisting for many years I finally got a decent set of BB press tools.
Causes me physical pain when a professional bike mechanic recommends a Phillips-head screwdriver for derailleur limit screws. Most bikes use Shimano. Get a good JIS screwdriver. And PLEASE tell people to invest in quality hex keys. There's nothing worse than crap/incorrect tools.
Need to have bike tools that are good but not the same price as park tool 🤔🤔 as a auto tech ,I already have 75g $ Worth of tools but not many bike tools 😔😔
That kind of chain checker which pushes rollers in opposite directions such as the Park CC-2 shown here 1:50, can't differentiate between pin wear (which is what actually matters and affects chainrings and cassettes) and roller wear (which usually has detrimental effect only on 11T sprocket). If the chain rollers are soft and wear prematurely, Park CC-2 will show an exaggerated wear reading. Chain checker such as Park CC-4/Pedros/SRAM are much more accurate and save the cost of replacing chains too early.
Since all those tools press against the rollers, they all measure the combined wear in the rollers plus pins. I can't see how any one is better than another.
@@bikeman123 Actually they dont, the older "inner to inner" type adds up both pin and roller wear as one but the "outer to inner" type effectively makes the 2 contacted rollers cancel each other out to measure the distance between the pins only, the greater the distance the more the pin diameter has reduced/worn way. New 12 speed systems dont all have the same roller diameter these days either making outer to outer type pretty useless.
I got the Birzman chain wear indicator because it measures 0.5 / 0.75 / 1.0% with ease, as well as having hooks that I use everytime I need a third hand between unhooking/hooking a quicklink. I also like how small it is. With 12 speed you need the 0.5% range that most older one's just don't have.
Lowest torque I know: Magura EBT screw. That's the one for the bleed port in basically any Magura brake lever. It get's tightened down to 0,5 nm. Also it is very, and I mean VERY, easy to strip the whole thing off, what will be a mess in removal from the brake lever, IF you can get it out in the first place.
You will be absolutely cursing that mulitool allen key set when you need to get to an awkward bolt, a set of Wera separate keys is all you need instead.
@@Durwood71Wera hex plus also allow you to transfer a lot more torque before destroying the screw head. I thought it was probably marketing BS but I have undone so very stuck Allen bolts in the past where I am astonished they haven't rounded out the heads.
I like having both especially when making adjustments around the bike, it’s very convenient and I always seem to misplace the hex key I need most lol, but there are definitely a few spots where you need to break out the regular keys like the bolts on hydraulic brake calipers
I take it he has a crank puller... (tad surprised not to see it on the bench) Or am I too old school, I use one all the time on square taper cranks. Maybe I need to invest in torque wrench I have most of the other tools. PS good set of cone spaners is essential if you want to service ballbearings on front/rear hubs. (I have scraped my hands enough times with cheap ones to know) I guess it is not such an issue for modern hubs.
For me a set of allen keys is all you need. A favourite tool is a Topeak Mini 20 multitool. Nicely designed and more functionality than I need. I’m very happy with going to my local bike mechanic because they have the knowledge and experience as well as investing in the right gear.
Why are disc brake pads for bikes so expensive? They have barely 2mm of material, last less than 3000miles and cost more than my car, which have 15mm and last 30,000miles.
Are they expensive? I have Shimano and TRP brakes on my bikes, and pad prices range from $10 to $25 a pair. And unless you're riding your brakes constantly, or are a professional racer, you can easily get well over a year out of a pair of pads.
He said they were lifeline, that’s a wiggle brand, if you’re going to buy a pair, get in quick, wiggle is on a final warehouse clearance before it shuts for good
Gorilla brake pads are 1/2 the price of shimano and have been tested over a long time against shimano pads on a previous you tube channel and where no difference in wear
The Shimano chain-link pliers are superior to the Park ones. They have three prongs, which allow the link to either installed or removed by squeezing the pliers. It's possible to get more leverage by squeezing rather than pulling apart.
I don't understand the Park Tool obsesson, it's like Snap-on for bike nerds. Thier quality is mediocre at best, basically Harbor Freight quality, but sold at premium prices. I get buying their specality bike tools that are uncommon, but why buy their allen wrenches and hammers?
The Park Tool folding hex key sets are actually made by Bondhus - they are excellent quality, and not excessively expensive, though you can save a bit by buying the Bondhus branded ones instead of the Park. Some other Park tools are indeed overpriced and not great, e.g. their generic pliers.
to remove shimano freewheels (12 point spline) I use the socket version of the freewheel tool with a box wrench and hit the wrench briskly with a dead-blow hammer -- poor man's impact wrench. This has worked every time I have tried it
@@PatsPurposefulPutzingThe problem with this approach on a bike is that unlike on an actual impact wrench the impacts are asymmetrical and could potentially damage a part by bending it or its threads or an axle. I tried this to remove a stuck crank and decided that it was too risky, so I switched to an impact wrench at its lowest setting and it worked. If you do this then do it slowly and carefully with light blows.
The park tool CC-2 chain checker really shouldn’t be recommended by a professional bike mechanic. Check out zero friction cycling to see how bad it is!
I think the implication is "if the chain is worn out the bike isn't being maintained, so it probably also needs all the other maintenance that hasn't been done as well"
As a fellow fully trained bike mechanic myself, it’s great to see pro mechanic tool choices. Park seem to be the favourite for a lot of people, and I’ve got some great ones, but I’ve found Unior tools to be excellent especially their Pro wheel truing stand as the guides also give great rim dish alignment as well as where to spoke tension. Always looking to see what’s missing from my collection. Pro level tools can last decades. I’ve got a Campag 15mm pedal spanner from 1988 still going strong!
I've been feeling the same way about some of Abbey Tools. Their HAG is the best derailleur alignment tool in the industry, full stop. But I also understand that it is price prohibitive to most people who aren't pros. There are a bunch of great brands that have great tools and no brand is the best at everything. Park, Abbey, Unior, Wera, Hozan, Lezyne and a whole bunch more.
My choice for pedal wrench has to be Eldi. Believe I’ve had mine for 30 years and still going strong. Small caveat though. The need is not as ubiquitous as it used to be.
Using the derailleur alignment tool, I don't think it matters if your wheels isn't completely true if you use the same reference point on on the wheel (e.g. the valve) and rotate the wheel with the alignment tool. That's what Park Tool recommend in their instruction video anyway.
I think, in the long run, it's cheaper and easier to simply replace a bent hanger than it is to buy an alignment tool and try to straighten it.
@@Durwood71depends on how often you have a bent hanger. Like, if you have kids, an alignment tool may be the way to go. Although I tend to recommend to customers, to just don't get their kids bikes with a derailleur. Not even necessarily because their kids would be careless. Most bent derailleur hangers on kid's bikes I encounter are because someone else is raising their kid wrong. Same thing with untrue wheels on kid's bikes. Often it's just another kid kicking into the spokes, stuff along those lines. Especially on the nicer ones of these bikes, there will be that little shit who's jealous.
@@Durwood71 if you buy new one and install it on your bike it can still be off - just because every part has some fabrication tolerance and sometimes those tolerances of frame and derailleur hanger can sum up to pretty impressive value.
@@andrzejwolkowicz7867 I have never encountered a situation where a brand new derailleur hanger needed to be aligned, and if your frame is mangled to the point where you have to tweak every new hanger into alignment, then it's probably time to buy a new bike.
I have had new ones that are a bit off. I always carry a spare, especially on long trips. I check the one on the bike, swap it for the spare, then check that for alignment and keep the original as the new spare. That way, I f I snap one in the middle of nowhere I know the spare will not stuff up the gear alignment.
Perhaps I am not sufficiently sophisticated (I work on walmart-grade bikes) but a set of cone wrenches comes in handy should an axle have too much play (or a bent one needs to be replaced) or if bearing regrease is needed.
There's not a lot but still some crossover with certain automotive tools that can save you some money or give you more options, like with torque wrenches, allen sockets on ratchets (better leverage) and various kinds of drivers with the right bits. My 1/4" Tekton torque wrench cost way less than the Park Tool one.
And, I'll admit to the cardinal sin of using a power tool on a bike, specifically to remove a really tight crank arm using a standard crank arm removal tool and impact wrench on its lowest setting and blipped briefly to prevent stripping the threads (after applying penetrating oil). That think one on for years and no amount of manual effort was getting it off so I had no choice. Came up instantly and no damage.
I noticed the wheel truing tool at the far end of the bench that, while a bit more advanced, might have been worth a quick discussion. I've had a very basic one for over 20 years but have never needed to use it as my Mavic Cosmos wheels were built like tanks and have never gone out of true.
Scott is a good lad. Him and Ben did a lot of work for me in the Williams cycles days in Cheltenham. Funny to see him on RUclips videos
Well done! I picked up a few useful bits of knowledge I did not know. All the best.😊
You'll need a torx set now too manufacturers are starting sneaking in torx screws in there too.
Thankfully many multi-tools now include at least a T25 which is by far the most common torx size on a bike.
After working on my bikes for decades, getting a bicycle cable cutter changed my life.
Good tools - I would add a crank puller and a bottom bracket bearing tool to suit your own particular setup. And don't use the ball-end hex tools on tight fasteners!
It was great to see a bike mechanic where not every tool was a Park Tool.
The rear derailleur alignment tool was a CRC brand. Also noticed the CRC truing stand in the background. I have the same equipment at home.
Yes I have Park Tools and love them. The Park Tool truing stand and hanger alignment tool are not cheap and made for the professional bike mechanic.
The secret to smooth gear changing is a straight rear wheel and the rear Derailleur hanger must be aligned to the rear wheel.
I wish I had a cheap truing stand, but since I use double wall rims it's not that big of a deal anymore
However, the oldest tool was PT 🎉😂 matches my experience.
All good advice. Ive been doing my own maintenance for many years and gradually built up a decent tool kit. My advice is to really invest in good quality tools - they will pay you back many times over. You can do damage with cheap, poor quality tools. Finally, the chain wear tool shown is the best type (as is the Park CC-4).
I know that most people who tryvto fix their bike can "feel" what torque they apply. But you sometimes need to retighten your screws and doing that with the wrong torque can get expensive real fast. I know people who would never change their chain but have gladly invested in a torque wrench (not an expensive one, only to get the torque +/-1 nm correct).
When I bought a new bike last year, I was surprised at how many fasteners had gone from Allen to Torx.
If you check your chain with a chain checker too often, you're gonna wear out your chain checker; so you really need a chain checker checker to make sure your chain checker is still checking chains correctly.
Since you are not supposed to push these tools into the chain, I think wearing them out takes longer than you suggest.
And then you would need another checker to check you chain checker checker...
I finally got the nice park chain breaker after 50 years of cycling to replace all my cheap breakers. I don't even use it now that all new chains come with quick links. So my quick link tool gets all the work nowadays. I'm surprised you didn't have cone wrenches in the list.
How do you shorten a new chain?
Yeah, SRAM cranks at 54Nm are a real pain. I got a length of rectangular section aluminum tube that would fit over the crank arm, with a bit of gaffer tape padding inside it to protect the carbon. It works well and gives you a lot more leverage. I occasionally find other uses for it, like a straight edge, cutting guide etc. one of my useful home made tools.
The accuracy of a torque wrench (calibration) is becoming more relevant as components become more sophisticated. Also important that the torque wrench doesn't allow you to continue to torque a bolt once it's bleeped/clicked, I know some do.
As a kid, I got a second hand bike and rode it for years, as it was how all my mates got around too, every day. I toured Scotland on it, 50m a day in mostly rainy weather!
But, check chain wear, and replace chain?? Everyone's bike, when it eventually fell apart/gave up the ghost, went to the dump still with its original chain!
As he said, new components are getting lighter. That means thinner, less dense material. That directly impacts durability and service intervals. Also, children weigh less and can generate less force than adults.
My favorite tool is a tool I bought immediatly I found it because I had thought of why there wasn't anyone crafting something like it, and by dumb luck I just came across it as I scrolled for other tools. It's the Shimano TL-MH10 multi-handle tool which basically is a bit overpriced breaker bar that is shaped in a specific way so you with ease can make sure it aligns the interface with the grip on the same plane to reduce the chance of slipping off for when you are mounting/dismounting a bottom bracket for example. Its shape also reduces the chance of smacking into any parts of the frame which is an added bonus.
I know it is overpriced and quite frankly I personally just did not care. I love special tools like this where someone have truly cared, and for what it's worth it is most likely going to last for the rest of your life because it's a solid quality item.
Thanks for the insights. Great! I would disagree with the ranking but this varies with customers😂. Certainly, the maintenance assessment by chain wear had me smiling. Same goes for tyres and break pads. Some people do not believe in wear and tear. 😢
Definitely get a torque wrench if you are doing ANYTHING with a carbon fiber bicycle. You'll need one to do up the thru-axle on some models. I got a Park Tools ATD-1 as it covers 4-6 nm and uses various hex key "plug-ins". You can find a socket adapter and use it for nuts in some cases. The beam type torque wrench is essential for major bicycle repairs.
Eklind 55198 T-handled hex wrenchs. 9'', especially 5mm. no ball heads for me. Felco C7 cable cutters are the only one I'll use. After resisting for many years I finally got a decent set of BB press tools.
Causes me physical pain when a professional bike mechanic recommends a Phillips-head screwdriver for derailleur limit screws. Most bikes use Shimano. Get a good JIS screwdriver. And PLEASE tell people to invest in quality hex keys. There's nothing worse than crap/incorrect tools.
Oh yes. A nice set of Vessel JIS drivers and a set of Wera individual hex keys would be so much better than the thkngs shown here.
@@paulsymons562 110%!
Need to have bike tools that are good but not the same price as park tool 🤔🤔 as a auto tech ,I already have 75g $ Worth of tools but not many bike tools 😔😔
Automotive tools lol. Guaranteed for life . But I paid for that 😮
@@chrism5433 A. For many things, there are quality alternatives to Park Tool, and B. Not all Park Tool tools are expensive.
That kind of chain checker which pushes rollers in opposite directions such as the Park CC-2 shown here 1:50, can't differentiate between pin wear (which is what actually matters and affects chainrings and cassettes) and roller wear (which usually has detrimental effect only on 11T sprocket). If the chain rollers are soft and wear prematurely, Park CC-2 will show an exaggerated wear reading. Chain checker such as Park CC-4/Pedros/SRAM are much more accurate and save the cost of replacing chains too early.
Since all those tools press against the rollers, they all measure the combined wear in the rollers plus pins. I can't see how any one is better than another.
@@bikeman123 Actually they dont, the older "inner to inner" type adds up both pin and roller wear as one but the "outer to inner" type effectively makes the 2 contacted rollers cancel each other out to measure the distance between the pins only, the greater the distance the more the pin diameter has reduced/worn way. New 12 speed systems dont all have the same roller diameter these days either making outer to outer type pretty useless.
I got the Birzman chain wear indicator because it measures 0.5 / 0.75 / 1.0% with ease, as well as having hooks that I use everytime I need a third hand between unhooking/hooking a quicklink. I also like how small it is.
With 12 speed you need the 0.5% range that most older one's just don't have.
Lowest torque I've seen is 0.8 Nm on Specialized TCU Display Unit and the highest at 80 Nm on the Enviolo Brake Adapter
Lowest torque I know: Magura EBT screw. That's the one for the bleed port in basically any Magura brake lever. It get's tightened down to 0,5 nm. Also it is very, and I mean VERY, easy to strip the whole thing off, what will be a mess in removal from the brake lever, IF you can get it out in the first place.
You will be absolutely cursing that mulitool allen key set when you need to get to an awkward bolt, a set of Wera separate keys is all you need instead.
To me the multi-tool is only sensible as a tool to take with you on trail. In a shop, separate wrenches for sure
Wera hex keys are great. They're not only more convenient to use than a multitool, but they also give you more leverage.
@@Durwood71Wera hex plus also allow you to transfer a lot more torque before destroying the screw head. I thought it was probably marketing BS but I have undone so very stuck Allen bolts in the past where I am astonished they haven't rounded out the heads.
I like having both especially when making adjustments around the bike, it’s very convenient and I always seem to misplace the hex key I need most lol, but there are definitely a few spots where you need to break out the regular keys like the bolts on hydraulic brake calipers
I take it he has a crank puller... (tad surprised not to see it on the bench) Or am I too old school, I use one all the time on square taper cranks.
Maybe I need to invest in torque wrench I have most of the other tools.
PS good set of cone spaners is essential if you want to service ballbearings on front/rear hubs. (I have scraped my hands enough times with cheap ones to know) I guess it is not such an issue for modern hubs.
A beam style torque wrench is much cheaper than a digital model.
Most derailleur limit screws are actually JIS, not phillips.
2 feet long 1 inch pipe , to extend your tools handles
Lifeline cable cutters are really good, and inexpensive.
Elvedes cable crimpers do a really tidy job
For me a set of allen keys is all you need. A favourite tool is a Topeak Mini 20 multitool. Nicely designed and more functionality than I need. I’m very happy with going to my local bike mechanic because they have the knowledge and experience as well as investing in the right gear.
aligning the bent pad spreader was funny
3rd hand tool for holding a cable taut while using torque wrench to tighten it
Shimano crank spindle end cap tool 👌
Thanks man! I wish I had this list a few years ago! Took me a long time to get the right (and good quality) tools!
What happened to your other pro bike mechanic from previous videos ?
Used to be easy...Campy T handle.
You folks forgot about a spoke wrench though.
I would add a good crowbar to help extricate the bike from a vehicle grill. 🚴🚚
"Pad Spreader" ... Multitool. Perfect for scallop shucking.
But pads are going up in price 💀
Are square crank extractors universal with regards to thread diameter and sizing?
You missed out on an important tool called Espresso machine prior going out on a ride.
The bolts on my Bontrager NCS mudguards are rate at 1.5 Nm, I think.
Why are disc brake pads for bikes so expensive? They have barely 2mm of material, last less than 3000miles and cost more than my car, which have 15mm and last 30,000miles.
Are they expensive? I have Shimano and TRP brakes on my bikes, and pad prices range from $10 to $25 a pair. And unless you're riding your brakes constantly, or are a professional racer, you can easily get well over a year out of a pair of pads.
What brand are those flush cut pliers with the notches?
He said they were lifeline, that’s a wiggle brand, if you’re going to buy a pair, get in quick, wiggle is on a final warehouse clearance before it shuts for good
Micro meter measuring tool , for seat post size
Counterclockwise drill bits
The Magura bleeding bolt is also like 0,5 nm 😂
Gorilla brake pads are 1/2 the price of shimano and have been tested over a long time against shimano pads on a previous you tube channel and where no difference in wear
All the prices mentioned, could be divided by 10, and still the job done.
I like park tools but, i recently bought a cable stretcher tool for 20 dollars and parks tool costs 62 dollars . That's abit much!
excellent, thank you
Cable cutters are nice
Always need a rotor wrench with Shimano rotors! I've had 3 sets of Ice Tech floating rotors warped out box. Just garbage.
The Shimano chain-link pliers are superior to the Park ones. They have three prongs, which allow the link to either installed or removed by squeezing the pliers. It's possible to get more leverage by squeezing rather than pulling apart.
I don't understand the Park Tool obsesson, it's like Snap-on for bike nerds. Thier quality is mediocre at best, basically Harbor Freight quality, but sold at premium prices. I get buying their specality bike tools that are uncommon, but why buy their allen wrenches and hammers?
The Park Tool folding hex key sets are actually made by Bondhus - they are excellent quality, and not excessively expensive, though you can save a bit by buying the Bondhus branded ones instead of the Park. Some other Park tools are indeed overpriced and not great, e.g. their generic pliers.
I was waiting for the high end tool snob to come out, but I didn’t see any Snap-on, PB Swiss, Wera, or Wiha tools.
Slightly surprised….
All very good, but you missed out one important thing in this video.
Where was the dog?
Pad spreader??? Have you never heard of a 3 in 1 Painter's Tool!
Cell phone to take picture of what you are undoing step by step so you can put it back together with all the parts
If you don’t know you need hex keys to work on bikes, please, don’t work on bikes.
just use a connex link and you wont need tool and it is reusale for the liffe of the chain
I've all those tools and not one Park Tool in sight 😁
Its harsh but electric 3/8 hammer gun can easily remove tight bolts ect .easier on our joints lol
You mean an impact wrench? Yeah, I've used one--very carefully. Even safer would be an impact driver at its lowest setting with an adapter.
to remove shimano freewheels (12 point spline) I use the socket version of the freewheel tool with a box wrench and hit the wrench briskly with a dead-blow hammer -- poor man's impact wrench. This has worked every time I have tried it
@@PatsPurposefulPutzingThe problem with this approach on a bike is that unlike on an actual impact wrench the impacts are asymmetrical and could potentially damage a part by bending it or its threads or an axle. I tried this to remove a stuck crank and decided that it was too risky, so I switched to an impact wrench at its lowest setting and it worked. If you do this then do it slowly and carefully with light blows.
The park tool CC-2 chain checker really shouldn’t be recommended by a professional bike mechanic. Check out zero friction cycling to see how bad it is!
Zero is a slick tongued fraud.
Can you do a review on the Bike ahead Composit Biturbo gravel wheels and the biturbo cross wheels. Also black inc five wheels.
Hanger straightening tools.. well don’t use it on a Triban hanger, they snap..
I mean obviously Park Tool are bike specific but they're really poorly made tools and relatively expensive. I would avoid them if at all possible.
If the chain is worn out, the bike is worn out? What in the park tool, specialized, trek, giant commercial did i just hear?
I think the implication is "if the chain is worn out the bike isn't being maintained, so it probably also needs all the other maintenance that hasn't been done as well"
Chains worn out bikes worn out a bit of a ridiculous generalisation
Park tools are complete garbage..
You show the tools but do not show how it works
That wasn’t the point of the video?