Master of Wine Discusses CHARDONNAY
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2023
- In this video, Bob Paulinski, Master of Wine will discuss Chardonnay along with what drives the price differences between an entry level and top end artisanal wine. To illustrate the point included will be a tasting of two wines that represent the opposite ends of the scale.
The classic origins tie to Burgundy in France, although the modern-day reach for Chard includes most of the world’s wine producing countries. Globally, it’s hold only began to take shape over the last 50 years or so. It’s also one of the more adaptable varieties in terms of growing conditions, including climate and soil preferences. Unlike many grape varieties, it can produce relatively good wines at higher yields. It’s not one of the more aromatic wines when made in a no-frills approach, so it’s a bit of a blank canvas and the range of styles are as broad as any in the wine world.
Chardonnay can manifest itself with a wide range of fruit characteristics that in part are driven by the vineyard location. Cooler regions often result in more citrus notes, a bit warmer result in apple character, in progressively warmer sites nudge to pear, peach, papaya notes, then pineapple character is increasingly found in even warmer regions.
Acidity levels vary, being higher from cooler regions resulting in wines with a bright, fresh, brisk character, while those from warmer places tend to have lower acidity which imparts a more rounded impression on the palate. Cooler regions will often result in lower alcohol levels, warmer with higher. The spread with Chardonnay is broad, at the low end it’ll be around 11%, many being around 13% but with some bumping upwards of 15.
What are some key factors that drive price? Vineyard location is a vital consideration, as land is expensive in prime growing regions. Often, more specific vineyard locations will lead to premium price points and potentially a better wine. Aside from the cost of land, key considerations are vineyard yield, the age and health of the vines, vineyard management techniques, and climatic factors.
The low end of the spectrum is industrial or commodity winemaking with its no-frills approach, built for consistency from year to year and to hit a price point. This is usually highly mechanized in the vineyards and winemaking. Modern technology can speed up wine production but with sacrifices. The wines will lack a strong sense of place, often sourced from multiple vineyard sites and perhaps multiple regions as well. The place of origin can be as broad as a state like CA or even anywhere from within an entire country.
Even France, a country that’s largely built its reputation on terroir has embraced this approach at some level to be more globally competitive. An example is Vin de France, introduced in 2010, it’s the broadest labelling term, essentially wines from anywhere within France, including blends from various regions. Most are labelled by grape variety, at broad market pricing. In a few short years, it’s gone from zero to over 15% of the French wine exports. The next time you visit a store, take a look, VdF wines are spread far and wide.
At an artisanal level, the best versions of Chardonnay will reflect a distinctive character linked to a specific place of origin. Classic examples include Chablis, Meursault or Puligny Montrachet, Corton Charlemagne and Le Montrachet. All made from Chardonnay, yet they are clearly different from one another. New world wine producers follow along the same path with increasingly defined site-specific places of origin. This is not a guarantee of quality, but it’s often a key difference maker in terms of finding the most expressive wines that display a sense of place.
With artisan level wines, the grape growing routinely includes a higher level of manual labor and yield tends to be lower. There’s a higher degree of attention given to better ensure optimal fruit quality and maturity. Increasingly artisanal wine making embraces sustainable, organic or bio methods. Artisanal wines will generally not only reflect the place of origin, but vintage specific characteristics as well. Between the two extremes of commodity or industrial and artisanal winemaking is a vast area of gray that can play more to one side or the other.
In terms of winemaking, artisanal methods can be surprisingly low input, with a don’t mess things up sort of approach. But in other cases, a broad range of winemaking techniques will be used to bring out a range of character. It may include the use of grape skin contact with the juice, use of native yeasts, a range of fermentation temperatures, ML, lees contact and stirring along with minimal fining and filtration to name a few. The bottom line is traditional winemaking is often more labor intensive and cannot be hurried.
#chardonnay #winetasting #winelife #france #wset #masterofwine #bobpaulinski #wine #winetime
If you want to more about what drives the price of a bottle of wine, click on this video. ruclips.net/video/TjUlv6uIFZA/видео.html
Thanks Bob
Nick, thanks for the support!
I just wanted to take a moment to tell you that i have really been enjoying your content.. especially the quizes. It has been interesting to see how much knowledge i have absorbed in a couple of months of casual wine content viewing. And also how little knowledge i have absorbed regarding the whites..
Everytime i say "i am going to get a white this time",i come home with a red,lol..
Thanks, it’s so nice to read your comment. The daily quiz has been fun. I try to mix it up, some tough questions, others less so. As for wine shopping, I always come back with more than planned, both red and white. Cheers!
😂😂😂 Maserati and Toyota Corolla 😂😂😂😂 I was craving for another fun video from you 😊
As usual, thanks for the great content Bob ❣️
This video was overdue, took a very long time to piece together. I’m glad you liked the video, along with a good laugh. 😂
Great one, Bob. I loved the format of looking at the factors that influence price, quality, and style.
For an affordable Argentinian Chardonnay, El Enemigo has impressed me.
Thank you Andrew. I’m a big fan of El Enemigo, the entire range. Cheers!
Tropical fruit aromas, and many other aromas, can also be a function of yeast choice and fermentation temperature. Not enough focus is placed on the impact of yeast, and fermentation temp, when discussing wine profiles, in my opinion. However, as always, well thought out, and clear presentation of information in your videos
Absolutely, yeast strain and fermentation temp are factors as well. The modern day science of yeast strains is incredible. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for this video. I appreciate any content that takes QPR into account as for me and my income stream that is what determines what I drink day to day. It is amusing to see how my own tastes have changed over time. I went through an ABC period from about 2000-2012 but then gradually encountered chardonnay that I liked. Now, I see the Chardonnay is my second most consumed grape variety! Someone gifted me a bottle of Rombauer 2021 which I was pretty sure I would not like and even that rich style seemed pleasing as a cocktail wine. I do find it hard to know what style I will get when I buy chardonnay from California since they now make the full range of styles- I generally go by the climate of the region as my best guess as to what I will get but even that can surprise me sometimes.
Thanks for the comment. Sometimes I think people say ABC only because they don’t want to be part of vast majority. The fact is Chardonnay has a wide range of styles to fits most anyone’s preference. I drink a very wide variety of wines, but I keep coming back to time tested faves. Often, that includes Chardonnay I’m some version. As for shopping for Chardonnay, certain classics are well known, but within Cali it’s often a bit of a leap of fate!
Hey Michaell, interesting thoughts. I have a few channels where I review wine and find it very hard to rate a wine based on QPR. To me, when I put my final score onto a particular wine, I rate it simply on its representation of the soil, weather,, and varietal characteristics. This doesn't mean that I won't use terms like "pleasant" or "pool wine" but when it comes down to a numerical rating, I have to go with what the wine is representing.
Great video. I really enjoyed the wine reviews. Thanks for putting it out there.
What was the price of wine #2? Thanks.
I paid $50, but I found it for less after I bought it. Expect low 40s in the US.
I appreciate the good word. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks!
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234
Not a big fan of Chard on it's own, but I enjoyed your content here as usual. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the kind words!
Good one Bobke! My wife’s a Chardonnay snob so I will share! Also, nice Glengarry shout out 😎
Thank you Jimmy. Glengarry Glen Ross, has maybe the best ever seven minutes of any movie! 😂 I hope all is well in Portugal.
curious on your thoughts on Pouilly Fuisse versus Chablis?
For me, I’ll take the latter every time. With base level Chablis, I love the acidity. I drink PF from time to time, the best versions are too expensive. What’s your thoughts?
Great video. I’m an ABC guy….always buy chardonnay. 😁. I do like almost all styles, and I had a sweet Vin de Paille from Jura a while back that was aged 6 years. Ok. My new favorite wine term…..broad market level…..love it. I’ve had that Catena…2018…..it was lovely.
Thank you Carl. ABC! 👍 Vin de Paille from Jura, very nice. Broad market level, part of my business vocabulary! Cheers!
Hello Bob,
I mentioned a white wine from Abruzzo Italy that I enjoyed. Here are the details - 2017 Ferzo "Terre di Chieti" Cococciola. I found it at Empire Wine, Albany NY.
Hello Thomas, I know that producer, very good Montepulciano. I’ll check with the importer to see if I can get it in CA. Thank you!
Is Chardonnay the grape that gets produced with the widest variety of styles and quality? I would guess so. While watching, I'm sipping a newly discovered producer: Stefan Müller from the Saar, Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett 2021. Racing acidity and high precision. Price is hard to beat at 12€. And a bonus is the low alcohol level, 7.5%.
That’s a tough one to answer, but Chardonnay is very much the chicken breast of the wine world. It can be made into a vast array of styles. With aromatic grapes, like Riesling, the options are fewer. The low alcohol (7.5%) is a good perk, no worries going back for another glass or two!
Well that is interesting, last weekend I attended a tasting where I tasted all 25 Chardonnays (and 25-ish others as an amateur I can't go beyond 60 tastings, my nose and brain have a real difficulty in handling more) they had and the couple from Argentina surprised me with the tropical fruit notes as you did, stuff I rarely find in Chardonnay, having said that I sometimes find liquorice on the back end with some Chardonnay, pleasant liquorice mind you (as a Dutchy) but I can't find the pattern on what is causing those tasting notes, do you have encountered those and have any idea in what might be the root cause of it?
Hi Rob, I’ve not experienced liquorice on the back palate. Sounds a bit like it could be derived from oak. Perhaps also very ripe fruit. Do you have a specific example? Coming your way soon. Looking forward to an Amsterdam visit! What’s the best wine shop?
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234I live in Rotterdam, but used to work for a couple of years in Amsterdam and the one shop that I frequented the most was D-vine KNSM-Laan 293, 1019 LE Amsterdam. They changed their name so I don't know if they have the same team but judging from google reviews it seems they are still knowledgeable. For Rotterdam I suggest Lenselinq, the owner used to be a sommelier for 2 and 3 starred Michelin restaurants and currently he's focused more on wines off the beaten path plus he's eager to let you taste a lot of wines.
I do enjoy chardonnay. i usually go to Alto-Adige, Jura and chardonnay from Piemonte for the best value, in my opinion
Same for me, I enjoy Chardonnay. Alto-Adige is high on the list, as is Chablis. Margaret River is also a fave. Thanks for commenting.
I love a good Chardonnay and remember...... coffee is for closers, lol
I love Chardonnay and that movie! 🎥
The leads are weak. 😂
When I first got into wine I was pretty much in the ABC camp, not completely; but largely. As I have been maturing so has my palate, and now I can enjoy a variety of styles of Chardonnay. At the beginning I went for more Chablis-esque type Chardonnays, but now I find I can enjoy the wider range it can offer.
I still prefer more medium bodied, higher acidity styles; while my wife tends towards the more vanilla-y, buttery style. So we try to have different types. Some that have impressed me recently: Agriverde Piane di Maggio Chardonnay Terre di Chieti, Italy 2021. Bock Chardonnay Battonage 2020 Villany, Hungary. KS Kvine Evergreen Vineyard 2020, Washington, U.S.A. Knappstein Chardonnay 2020, Claire Valley, Australia. Fowles Farm Farm to Table Chardonnay, Victoria, Australia 2020.
Surprisingly Baden, in Southern Germany seems to be doing quite well with Chardonnay the last few years and has picked up a few Decanter Gold Medals (not available in Asia, where Germany nearly always means Riesling, and often enough off-dry or semi-sweet Riesling🙄). I also enjoy Chardonnay from Alto Adige, either as a mono-varietal or in a blend. Some of the Aussie cooler climate and more balanced Chardonnays are a pleasure to drink at affordable prices. Great video and explanation, I agree it's time to move away from the ABC era. 😄
Hi Solomon, thanks for the comment. You’ve gone deep into Chardonnay, many excellent examples. I just picked up the Farm to Table, one of my faves from back when I lived in Melbourne. My guess is you’ll come back to Chablis again. For me, it’s the purest expression of Chardonnay. As for Baden, a brilliant region for a wide range of wines. I’m working on another video that will feature Montagny, one of the best values in white Burgundy. Have you cellared away any Chardonnay?
It's quite a skill to master, being able to make fair, unpretentious tasting notes without effort. A big note to take from the video.
Also, I've been thinking for a while that different grape varieties range from extremely versatile all the way to one-trick-ponies. From the winemaker's perspective, it's like you had a long list of optional steps and actions to take, and different varieties came with varying numbers of those options "ticked off" as "not very well suited for this". I've also noticed that some producers try to overextend the versatility of some grapes and make some questionable inventions. Extreme, oaky, Barolo-Boys-style Nebbiolo is one such example in my view. Do you agree overall with my assessment?
Overall, I agree with you. With aromatic white varieties, the vast majority show the best potential when not overworked in the winery. Let the best characteristics shine, all the better if it’s a prime region with a sense of place. With reds, except for a few styles, oak is used too often. High levels of oak will mask the fruit character. As a red ages, the wood will become increasingly dominant. It’s a bad combination for most wines. As always, thanks for the comment!
Hi Bob, I cannot stand California-style Chardonnay with a lot of oak and minimal acidity. Burgundy or Chilean varieties are the ones I go for. In terms of your content, I would love to see a more deeper dive into different styles of Chardonnay across the globe. Just saying...
Hi Dmitri, many Cali Chardonnay are as you describe, but there are exceptions too. Burgundy is a yes! Chile is doing some wonderful things if you pick and choose carefully. I like your idea on the different styles of Chardonnay.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Thanks, Bob.
I have to say that I have lost my faith in medium-priced American Chardonnay. It seems as if every wine I get is in love with oak.
And sometimes sweetness too!
Some very bad Chardonnay out there but if you can afford the good stuff it will blow your mind. I’m talking Chablis and the various Montrachets.
Chablis, love it. Never tire of it!