Master of Wine Discusses Burgundy Value
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2023
- In this video, Bob Paulinski Master of Wine discusses Montagny. I’ll discuss a particularly noteworthy value, along with where it’s from, what to expect, then the video will conclude with a tasting of a prime example.
The focus here will be on Montagny, one of the most overlooked and undervalued white wines of Burgundy. It barely gets a mention on youtube. For me, it’s something I was introduced to decades ago when I was first getting wine. Back then, the shop that I worked in sold a good amount of it from Louis Latour, it was one of the few Montagny options available in the US then. While Louis Latour still makes a good one, the range of options has expanded, but you’ll need a good specialty retailer or online source to find it.
Montagny is from the Cote Chalonnaise, home of the some of the best values in Burgundy. This is not an ultra-prime prestige region like the Cote de Nuits or Cote de Beaune which are located a short distance north. Here, you’ll find wine like Bouzeron for Aligote, then Rully Mercurey for very good both reds and white. Then to Givry for some of the red values in Burgundy, and finally to Montagny at the most southern end of the region. It’s a place with a wine history that goes back to the Middle Ages. Specific to Montagny, its decree as an appellation date back to the 1930’s.
It might come as a surprise but well over half of the wine produced in Burgundy is white, of course most being derived from Chardonnay and then a much lesser extent of Aligote, about 34% is red, mostly Pinot Noir, followed by Gamay. The region produces a tiny amount of rose’. And the remainder is Cremant, arguably the best value anywhere for sparkling wine. A good percentage of Cremant de Bourgogne comes from the Cote Chalonnaise
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Burgundy is built on a complex hierarchy classification system that’s shaped like a triangle. As you move up the hierarchy, the place of origin gets increasingly more specific, nudging toward the more premium vineyard sites. There are more than 80 appellations in Burgundy. At the base, you’ll find the most general appellations at a regional or sub-regional level. Most are from the flatter, less prime vineyard sites. Here you’ll find the broadest labelling, such as Bourgogne blanc or rouge or Macon Villages for example. At this level, sometimes the grape variety will be noted on the label, especially for wines meant for the export markets. This base level accounts for over half of the region’s total wine production.
Next up is the Village level which takes its names from the various communes, these are wines sourced from better sites versus the regional or sub-regional wines, this accounts for about 33% of the production in Burgundy. Then comes the Premier Crus which are increasingly more site specific, from better vineyards, often with eastern or southern exposures. This accounts for about 10% of the regions volume. Lastly, at the top of the triangle is the GC at only 1% of the total wine production. These are from the best sites, typically mid-slope, with the ideal vineyard exposure and drainage. Sometimes, only the specific vineyard with be noted on the label. As one moves up the hierarchy, the prices increase as well. Depending on the market, regional wines can be very affordable, while the top are will be pricey.
Specific to the Cote Chalonnaise there are no Grand Crus, but there are many Premier Cru. Within Montagny, about 1/3 of the wines are designated at the Village level, the rest as PC. There are too many Montagny premier crus to sort out, it’s a legacy that dates back many years, it’s a story fit for a NF documentary. Simply know that most Montagny is simply labelled as premier cru without noting a more specific place of origin. All Montagny is white, made entirely from Chardonnay, there is no red version.
Much of the region has Limestone based soils, this is well suited to Chardonnay, some resemble the kimmergian soil, as is found in Chablis. Many Montagny are made in stainless steel, if oak is used, its generally on the lighter side. New oak rarely plays a part. In terms of aging potential, 3 to 5 years from the vintage is the norm. Approx US pricing is posted below.
2021 Vignerons de Buxy Montagny $17
2021 Joseph Drouhin Montagny $24
2021 Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche $25
2022 Domaine des Moirots Montagny 1er Cru Vieux $29
2019 Mont Chauve Montagny 1er Cru, $30 (tasted in this video)
2020 2020 JM Boillot Montagny 1er Cru $33
#wine #winetasting #winetime #chardonnay #burgundy #wset #masterofwine #montagny #france #bobpaulinski
Thank you, Bob. I will definitely try this one. Cheers!
Hi Dmitri, let me know how it goes. Cheers.
Thx, interesting video. Due to the prices I don't drink to much from Burgundy, but I can get the Vignerons de Buxy Montagny for 12 € here in Germany, so I will give this a try.
VdB is one of the better co-ops within Burgundy. It’s a large producer of Montagny, offering both village level and premier cru.
Well... more Burgundy that I'll definitely have to look into. I really don't know why a working class like myself got fascinated with Burgundy. I'm sure there were more reasonably things to specialise on! But here we are... Montagny on my line of sight.
You're probably fascinated for the same reason as everyone else, when the wines are on the mark, there's nothing better!
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine if I'm honest, I think it's for a much geekier reason: when I first learned of Burgundy, I had no idea they were so priced and world class (I thought it was just another reliable wine region), yet I was drawn into this whole concept of site expression with a single subtle grape variety. Maybe from my scientific background in complexity theory I immediately felt drawn into this idea of a single object being capable of so much diversity via its sensitivity to its external circumstances.
I think I'd have sounded a lot less weird if I'd stayed with the standard explanation, though 🤣
@@juanmanuelmunozhernandez7032 Nothing wrong with being a geek!
Love your content,. thank you
Thanks for the good word. Much appreciated!
Thanks Bob, ill have to serch them out.
Sounds like wine i would like.. 👍
Let me know what you think of it! Cheers!
Some of my favourite whites are found in Burgundy. I have gone for St Aubin, Auxey-Duresses, and Pouilly Fuisse, bought en primeur, in the past but now I think I might switch to wines for current drinking as I get older (I am 68 so I have more or less stopped buying en primeur). These wines from the Cote Chalonnaise should fit the bill nicely, I think. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the comment. Cote Chalonnaise is typically very solid. The opened for this video was outstanding. The acidity is the key, very enjoyable
I had a Montagny 1er Cru earlier this year and was very disappointed. I do believe it was something off with the bottle as your description and what I tasted was worlds apart. Will try another one when given the chance! Cheers! (Drinking Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Kabinett feinherb 2019)
Sounds like something was off with your bottle of Montagny. I love Kesselstatt, had many excellent bottles from them.
I am a big fan of saint aubin (Ami), Chablis , givry (joblot). Montagny not easy to get in Singapore but I will keep a look out. Great video as always. Thank you Bob.🎉
Hi Jason, thanks for the good word. I hope you can find it. I had a Nov trip set for Singapore, it’s been canceled. Disappointed!
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine I see oh no. Hope all is well.
@@jasonhu2219 All is well, I'll get back to that part of the world in early 2024.
Hello. Montagny offers good value. What was not so clear to me is it offers also the same quality as the more expensive sites other Burgundy?
Hello. Sorry if I was not clear. I’m not saying it offers quality on par with the more expensive white Burgundy. Within Burgundy, I put Montagny on par with Village level wines throughout the region. Instead, it’s often better than more pricey options from around the world. Thank you for commenting.
Thanks, something new to seek out. I think I found it at TW
It’s very good. You’re right, it’s at TW.
Thanks for the uber-informative video! Learned a lot. Value white burgundy is sort of a white whale for me. I did a tasting of several grand cru white burgundies a few months ago, absolutely ruined me for a while! Will seek out some montagney. Thanks Bob!🍷🙏
I'm happy to read your message. Let me what you think about the wine. Cheers!
It'd be nice to see you talking about the Haute Cotes, those two regions don't get much coverage and they seem to have good value.
One thing I'd like to know is if the higher altitude makes those terroirs better prepared for climate change than Cote de Nuits/Beaune and if they can have better quality on warmer vintages. Thanks!
(I live in London and Montagny is my go to white Burgundy, I can get a bottle for ~£13 which is amazing value. Saint Veran is also a good pick although less available)
Altitude is the difference maker in many places around the world when it comes to climate change. That issue pertains to temperature. The other is rainfall, soil water retention and drainage. Top slopes other have too much drainage, mid slope is often the best option. I’m a St Veran fan as well. I like your idea for a future video!
Hi Bob, I was surprised by the Alcohol level. Has that level occurred naturally or some enrichment has been added to increase it? Many thanks 😊
Hi Laura, chaptalization is sometimes used in Burgundy, but not in this case. The alcohol level is a result of a grape sugars only. Thanks as always!