Tools Used: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. OTC Smoke Machine: amzn.to/2YW9HqN Autel Scan Tool (Updated Version): amzn.to/2YOGA8t The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
2001 crv p0420 tool shows cat, evap, and o2 monitors incomplete. Erased code now only evap monitor is incomplete. Does this point to evap as issue? thanks btw you are obviously truly passionate about what you do because when you speak about automotive it sounds like you invented it. by speaking like this it makes it easier to understand and appreciate this.
Hands down one of the best videos on this subject on the entire internet. This was like going to class and learning a lot! If you have P1456 P1457 error code on your Honda start by watching this video and then get informed about the specific features of your Honda. I was getting P1456 and P1457 and guess what? It was the two-way valve on my 2004 Pilot. With no special equipment I got the parts off the vehicle with the canister and the canister vent and canister passed. Then I tried the two way valve still connected to the bypass valve by blowing from the canister side to the tank side. The one on my rig leaked! I replaced with a confirmed good valve form the scrap yard and CEL off, tags on the way! Thanks, Big Dog50001!
I did my 02 Honda Accord lx today. at first I thought about taking my car to a shop but after I watched your video a few times I realized it is not a hard job, I got it done in less than an hour thank you so much for a great video it was very detailed and easy to follow, I think you should be an instructor and a teacher at an automotive school you have the voice so your students would follow well.
I will second Kelly Myers' comments. This video is FANTASITC. I have a 99 Accord EX. In the end I replaced the Canister and Purge Valve. The whole thing was one rusted blob after 22 years in the north. The information in this video educated me on how the whole EVAP system works in general. Translates to most vehicles. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community!!!
Awesome! You saved me big bucks! Check engine light was on with code P1457. Tapped the solenoid like you showed. Disconnected the battery for a few minutes then reconnected it. Drove it around for about an hour. Still no check engine light. Went to get the emission check and PASSED! Yahoo!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@BigDog50001 ...1999 Honda Accord with 261,000 miles in rust belt still going strong thanks to you! Cancelled my appointment with the mechanic this a.m. Going to get the get my renewal sticker this weekend! Thanks again.
Thank you for the comment. Good advice, if you watch my videos you will see I wear PPE including eye protection, but even I forget to wear them sometimes.
One of the BEST and most thorough videos I've ever seen. Thank you also for showing and pointing to all the parts and recording the entire removal and put back of these parts. Please keep up the excellent video work
Great video! Especially the illustration that advises where to look based on which code is thrown. When I bought my 2000 Accord for $500, I had to immediately replace both fuel lines but neglected to replace the third evap line. Your video showed this was my problem!
Thank you for making this video. I especially appreciate the part near the end where you show how to test solenoid valves without professional test equipment.
Great video and easy to follow description of the system and the most likely problems associated with it. Thanks for taking the extra time to explain it and for filming it so well.
Thanks a lot for the video, I have a 2003 CRV and a 2005 Element, and they have reached the point that lately I have been jumping from one to the other fixing things, right now I have emission problems with both I have a P0497 on the Element and a P0457 on the CRV...this video helped me a lot making sense of how the Evaporative System works. THANKS AGAIN Big Dog50001.
Great video! Really well organized information. I've been getting learned about the p1457 code for a few days now and this is by far the best video I've seen. Thank you!
You have the best details and explain instruction on RUclips , which is easy to understand, unlike other sites confusing to follow up. Thank you for your valuable information 🙏
I think I beat the P 1457 code! Changed the evap canister and the canister shut off valve. Cleared the code and hopefully the engine light won't come back on. Going for emissions testing this morning. I did have to pay the oil change mechanic to loosen that one pesky 12mm bolt that held the canister to the frame and then drive back slowly the next day to have him screw it back in again. I'm in the rust belt too-WI. Parts $100+60. Mechanic estimate >$750 Big savings!! Thanks for the great informative video!
The best video on the subject! Your diagrammatic explanation makes me want to be an automotive engineer! You must have training in teaching. Having said that, I don't have the tools you have. So, it is off to a mechanic.Actually, this is a good video for mechanics.
Probably the best video I have ever seen, even I could understand how that system worked, (just a DIYer). I really do think you have missed your vocation in life and you should be a lecturer at college. All the best and please keep them coming.
This was a great explanation of the system. Unfortunately, I've replaced a ton of stuff and still get the P1457 code. My issue has gotten worse in the past 2 weeks. Now every time I fill up gas, the car just cranks and won't start for the first 3 tries. After that, it will start, but stall out 3-4 times. After that, it will eventually stay on and drive perfectly normally until I fill up the gas again. I've changed the Charcoal Canister vent valve, then the charcoal canister assembly with the vent valve, the purge solenoid in the engine bay, the fuel pump assembly, and the gas cap twice, and the O2 sensor. It went away for a while when it first showed up a couple of months ago, but now it comes back every 2-3 days. Issue is starting to cost me a lot of money in parts and labor. One thing I'll note is that my fuel trims are high, but not high enough to trigger the lean code. My long term fuel trim is around +7/8 most of the time. And my short term goes to 0 if I'm coasting, but seems to rise at idle when I'm at a traffic light. Can you give me an idea of what else it could be? I need help. I smell gas after struggling to start after filling up, but I don't notice it after that.
Thanks, this was so helpful. We had to dill out the old screws and tap new threads in the inserts on the canister, Car is in PA with 240K on the odometer.
This vid save the day. Had a check emission light & injected air into the system which confirmed evap pressure sensor working but air would not hold in the system cuz of a stuck vent Solenoid.
Your videos are fantastic. Thanks for showing numerous ways to check the valve/solenoid. I have two Honda automobiles and appreciate all your Honda videos. Very descriptive. Thank you
Great video 👍 very helpful and understanding. Now I can fix mines without hesitation. Thank you for taking the time to show us how to properly diagnose the situation
thank you for going over the diagnostics using the diagram, followed by the clear and detailed explanation. gonna try and tackle this job this weekend.
Thanks! I have a P1456 error even after replacing the gas cap. The car smells like fuel when it gets warm so something is definitely leaking... I don’t have all of the diagnostic tools you do so I’m probably going to have to take it to my mechanic but your diagram was very helpful. I at least have some idea what the issue might be so he knows where to start looking.
No I don't have a video on that code but I would fix it in a similar fashion, seal system and find the leak or bad component that is fooling the computer into thinking there is a leak. The computer looks for changes in the fuel tank pressure during certain testing conditions and when it doesn't see the changes it is looking for it sets a code (after 2 trips). Fuel Tank Pressure Sensors, Vent Solenoids, Two Way Bypass Solenoids and Check Valves, cracked/broken/plugged hoses, Charcoal Canisters etc can all cause that code. Some models are susceptible to charcoal being sucked into the lines and clogging the purge solenoid and lines to it. Thank you for the comment!
😎👍 Cool, super thanks buddy for the 'Technical School / Shop Class' primer on the Honda Charcoal Canister, now let me do some basic shotgunning on this puppy, yay! 🚙😍
thanks, emission testing is coming up and I need to get this fixed or else I won't pass. I recently took my car to get it fixed but they replaced the bypass solenoid. It didn't fix it at all, after watching this video I think I might diagnose my self and fix it on my own thanks!
Great video I enjoy watching them. I like how you demonstrate the use of the Snap-on scan tool and work with basic Pittsburgh Pro tools to get the job done. I love their ratchets.
Excellent! Clear concise and thorough. And yeah, I would have had a sparky little 9 volt battery at the canister testing the Canister Vent Shut Valve solenoid. Of course - if I blow the car up it wont keep throwing codes, right? Thank you.
What part is that called to the right of the purge control valve solenoid under the hood? I already switch out my entire charcoal canister assembly and still have that p1457.
Hi thank you for this video. I have a 99 Honda accord LX. The solenoid and canister were replaced. Now a week later I get a code of P1457. Do you have any suggestions for me after these parts were replaced?
This was one of the best videos I have seen on the P1457 code. My pressure test includes plugging all the holes and blowing into it. Unfortunately my canister vent solenoid passes the 9 volt battery test and the continuity test. So it appears my vent solenoid is working and I can find no leaks anywhere. My purge valve also holds a vacuum with the key on and has continuity. So where should I look next? The P1457 was also accompanied with serious misfiring with codes P0300, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0300. Could it be another problem that is causing the P1457 and the EVAP system is working?
@@BigDog50001 So you think they are unrelated. Since they both happened the same time I figured the P1457 was the cause of the misfires. Perhaps I will reinstall the evap canister then and see if it continues to happen.
I tested the EVAP bypass solenoid valve using the same method in your video, although this is on the fuel tank side of the Evap system. Should this valve operate in the completely open or completely closed position? Without power it is completely open. When I hook a 9v battery to it the click is very faint and does not close, I can still suck and blow air through it, regardless of weather it is powered or not. Is this normal? The multimeter reading is 35. This solenoid has been a know issue for Honda.
Don't know if you'll see this but. My 98 accord is throwing both codes 1456 and 1457. At first it was only throwing 1457 i believe, my scanner said it was a tank side error. Should I just start by changing the vent solenoid? I visually inspected it yesterday, it all looked clean and in good condition, and the module on the engine i'm pretty sure is working right, and I replaced the vacuum lines on the engine side module when I rebuilt the engine.
I keep getting a P2422 EVAP CVS stuck closed. I have changed the valve and I still get the message after driving a few miles. The 2019 Accord was in water but I have removed the canister and removed the water. I was wondering if the canister needs to be replaced ? Thanks ,Scott
I need help. I also have a check engine light with the evap system 90-1. It says a evap system leakage (Fuel Tank). Does it i have a fuel leak or do i have to replace the tank. Any advice/information or recommend links would be greatly appreciated.
01 civic and it threw a p1457. I noticed the car is idling weird as well. As I let off the gas the rpms fall very low almost killing the engine. Are these problems possibly related?
I bought the canister and solenoid from Rock Auto for 127 dollars and did this myself on my daughter's 2002 Accord V6 about an hour time. Get parts from Honda and pay triple!
Best Video! I swapped the EVAP on my 2001 honda civic. However, the same code P01457 came back. When the code appears vehicle looses all power and gas pedal full floored car goes very slow. Did swap the gas cap a well... Any suggestion? Thanks
I would verify that the evap Purge Valve is working, especially whenever there is a drivability issue along with an evap code. With the engine running and the purge valve electrical plug disconnected, there should be no engine vacuum present on the evap canister side of the purge valve (not the engine side). This can usually be verified by disconnecting the electrical connector and the vacuum hose at the purge valve and checking for vacuum on evap side (there should not be any engine vacuum because the valve is normally closed). Sometimes they fail intermittently and can be difficult to diagnose. FYI, unplugging it and running the engine will most likely set a diagnostic trouble code for the purge valve (which can actually be used as a quick check to verify circuit integrity). Thanks for the comment!
Great video! I have P01456 code and I can smell gas when I exit the car after driving it. Replaced the fuel cap and didn't help. Any chance to show testing procedure for the tank side? I do have a smoke machine. Thanks.
A similar test can be done for a P1456, seal vent solenoid and fill system with smoke to look for leaks. The code is indicating there is a leak (or the system thinks there is a leak due to a faulty solenoid or fuel tank pressure sensor). Bad hoses, bad two way valve/bypass/vent solenoids, aftermarket fuel caps, bad fuel tank pressure sensors, damaged fuel filler neck areas etc. can all cause this code. It takes two trips to set this code (as long as all driving criteria are met to enable testing by the ECM), and three trips to clear on its own if fixed. If I get one in that has this code I will try and record it. Thanks for the comment!
Very nice video. I have both the voltmeter and the vacuum tool that you showed. In the event that it is not the canister Solenoid Valve, is there a path forward without the smoke machine?
You can check the other solenoids to see if they are activating the same way I did in the video. After that, it becomes more difficult without a bidirectional scan tool and smoke machine.
late to this game, but which jack point did he use to lift the rear of the vehicle? I have been trying to find the proper jack point for the rear of this vehicle but to no avail.
The rear tow hook in the rear center of vehicle is proper lift point for this Honda. The jack stands go in front of rear wheels on reinforced pinch weld areas (20:20 min of video).
Oh my God I love your videos. Unfortunately I ain't too mechanic savy. I have a problem that has plagued me for about a year and lost about $300 on it. My vehicle is an 06 Honda Element California Emission originally, the vehicle is no longer in California. It started out with a p2422 evap vent valve stuck shut. The vehicle did not want to take gas when refueling. I paid a shop $200 to supposedly fix it. They say they replaced the valve. Three hundred miles later the code came back. I called them up and they were pissy about it, so I said screw it I will fix it myself. The shut valve looked like an original part, so they either did not fix it, or they put a used part on and charged me for new...or maybe they put a different part on instead of the valve. So I went to the junkyard and replaced the canister, canister vent valve, fuel pressure sensor and the seperator. Its been about 2k miles and the check engine light has stayed off, but I got a new problem related to it. I can hear multiple puffs of air coming from the evap system while running. I removed the gas cap while running and the vehicle stalled. I put the cap back on and started it. To my surprise there were no more puffs of air until it ran for a few minutes. The sound came back. I am at a loss for what to do next. I do not think the parts I put on were California emissions though, if that matters.
Some of the parts around that time frame are different depending on whether it was California emissions or not, so that might be an issue. I would double check all my work and make sure all hoses and connections are good (many times if a line is not connected properly you can hear a noise when the computer opens the purge valve). Unfortunately, without seeing it anything I tell you would be a guess. Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it!
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Big Dog50001 Automotive is this the same as code p0442? On an 03 Honda Accord lx.
@@oreoprincess19 Similar, the ECM is using some logic to detect a small EVAP leak in the system.
Safety glasses? Pshhh, safety squints works just as good haha. Thanks for the video, I’m about to do this to mine
well done . thankz
2001 crv p0420 tool shows cat, evap, and o2 monitors incomplete. Erased code now only evap monitor is incomplete. Does this point to evap as issue? thanks btw you are obviously truly passionate about what you do because when you speak about automotive it sounds like you invented it. by speaking like this it makes it easier to understand and appreciate this.
Hands down one of the best videos on this subject on the entire internet. This was like going to class and learning a lot! If you have P1456 P1457 error code on your Honda start by watching this video and then get informed about the specific features of your Honda. I was getting P1456 and P1457 and guess what? It was the two-way valve on my 2004 Pilot. With no special equipment I got the parts off the vehicle with the canister and the canister vent and canister passed. Then I tried the two way valve still connected to the bypass valve by blowing from the canister side to the tank side. The one on my rig leaked! I replaced with a confirmed good valve form the scrap yard and CEL off, tags on the way! Thanks, Big Dog50001!
Part number?
I did my 02 Honda Accord lx today. at first I thought about taking my car to a shop but after I watched your video a few times I realized it is not a hard job, I got it done in less than an hour thank you so much for a great video it was very detailed and easy to follow, I think you should be an instructor and a teacher at an automotive school you have the voice so your students would follow well.
I like this dude, he really explains well. I’d be willing to bet he’s been a teacher at some point in his life.
It's really nice to see a intelligent professional mechanic doing videos on RUclips!
I will second Kelly Myers' comments. This video is FANTASITC. I have a 99 Accord EX. In the end I replaced the Canister and Purge Valve. The whole thing was one rusted blob after 22 years in the north. The information in this video educated me on how the whole EVAP system works in general. Translates to most vehicles. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community!!!
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Awesome! You saved me big bucks! Check engine light was on with code P1457. Tapped the solenoid like you showed. Disconnected the battery for a few minutes then reconnected it. Drove it around for about an hour. Still no check engine light. Went to get the emission check and PASSED! Yahoo!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good to hear, thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 ...1999 Honda Accord with 261,000 miles in rust belt still going strong thanks to you! Cancelled my appointment with the mechanic this a.m. Going to get the get my renewal sticker this weekend! Thanks again.
It's really nice to see an intelligent, professional mechanic doing videos on RUclips!
Thanks 👍
The best video I've seen on the subject - THANK YOU! PLEASE wear eye protection when working under a vehicle like that!!!!!!!
Thank you for the comment. Good advice, if you watch my videos you will see I wear PPE including eye protection, but even I forget to wear them sometimes.
One of the BEST and most thorough videos I've ever seen. Thank you also for showing and pointing to all the parts and recording the entire removal and put back of these parts. Please keep up the excellent video work
Thanks, I appreciate the comment!
Great video! Especially the illustration that advises where to look based on which code is thrown.
When I bought my 2000 Accord for $500, I had to immediately replace both fuel lines but neglected to replace the third evap line. Your video showed this was my problem!
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Excellent video! Well-produced and you're obviously a SMEE! Straight matter-of-fact presentation on diagnosis and repair.
Eugene Gutierrez Thanks!
SME Subject Matte Expert.
Thank you for making this video. I especially appreciate the part near the end where you show how to test solenoid valves without professional test equipment.
Thanks for the comment!
I have a question are you able to answer questions
Thank you for this video. Simply the best none complicated video on the matter that i have seen so far on RUclips.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Got a p1457 '02 accord. Looks like this is in my future. Thank you for the thorough explanation. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the comment!
Your video gave me the most helpful instruction when I was repairing P1457 on my 4 cyl Accord! Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the comment!
Great video and easy to follow description of the system and the most likely problems associated with it. Thanks for taking the extra time to explain it and for filming it so well.
👍
Seen almost all videos about p1457, and your video is the best. Then I subscribed and thumbs up. I have more confidence to solve the problem.
Thanks for the comment and welcome!
Appreciate the level of detail presented!
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks a lot for the video, I have a 2003 CRV and a 2005 Element, and they have reached the point that lately I have been jumping from one to the other fixing things, right now I have emission problems with both I have a P0497 on the Element and a P0457 on the CRV...this video helped me a lot making sense of how the Evaporative System works. THANKS AGAIN Big Dog50001.
Top notch, BigDog!!! Most indepth and easy to understand video I've seen. Going to the garage now to hopefully fix my evap cel. Thank you.
Such a clear and easy to follow diagnosis that actually works for everyone! This is my new Honda/Toyota go-to channel
Thanks for the comment!
Great video! Really well organized information. I've been getting learned about the p1457 code for a few days now and this is by far the best video I've seen. Thank you!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
You have the best details and explain instruction on RUclips , which is easy to understand, unlike other sites confusing to follow up. Thank you for your valuable information 🙏
I think I beat the P 1457 code! Changed the evap canister and the canister shut off valve. Cleared the code and hopefully the engine light won't come back on. Going for emissions testing this morning.
I did have to pay the oil change mechanic to loosen that one pesky 12mm bolt that held the canister to the frame and then drive back slowly the next day to have him screw it back in again. I'm in the rust belt too-WI.
Parts $100+60.
Mechanic estimate >$750
Big savings!!
Thanks for the great informative video!
Thank you for the comment!
It’s videos like these that keep me coming back to fedtube.
The best video on the subject! Your diagrammatic explanation makes me want to be an automotive engineer! You must have training in teaching. Having said that, I don't have the tools you have. So, it is off to a mechanic.Actually, this is a good video for mechanics.
Harry S. Anchan Thank you.
God bless you.
Blessings, John 3:16 (NIV). Jesus loves you.
Probably the best video I have ever seen, even I could understand how that system worked, (just a DIYer). I really do think you have missed your vocation in life and you should be a lecturer at college. All the best and please keep them coming.
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate it!
Excellent Video! This guy is a real pro. He's not guessing Just real diagnostic a benchmark in how a 'How to' Video should be made. Thanks
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Amazing video🙏🏼 I watch tutorials on issues I’m unfamiliar with, and you sir knocked it out of the park. 10/10 keep making this it’s a huge help👌🏻
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
This was a great explanation of the system. Unfortunately, I've replaced a ton of stuff and still get the P1457 code. My issue has gotten worse in the past 2 weeks. Now every time I fill up gas, the car just cranks and won't start for the first 3 tries. After that, it will start, but stall out 3-4 times. After that, it will eventually stay on and drive perfectly normally until I fill up the gas again. I've changed the Charcoal Canister vent valve, then the charcoal canister assembly with the vent valve, the purge solenoid in the engine bay, the fuel pump assembly, and the gas cap twice, and the O2 sensor. It went away for a while when it first showed up a couple of months ago, but now it comes back every 2-3 days. Issue is starting to cost me a lot of money in parts and labor. One thing I'll note is that my fuel trims are high, but not high enough to trigger the lean code. My long term fuel trim is around +7/8 most of the time. And my short term goes to 0 if I'm coasting, but seems to rise at idle when I'm at a traffic light. Can you give me an idea of what else it could be? I need help. I smell gas after struggling to start after filling up, but I don't notice it after that.
Thanks, this was so helpful. We had to dill out the old screws and tap new threads in the inserts on the canister, Car is in PA with 240K on the odometer.
Yeah older cars out there will definitely have rust/corrosion issues, thanks for the comment!
This vid save the day. Had a check emission light & injected air into the system which confirmed evap pressure sensor working but air would not hold in the system cuz of a stuck vent Solenoid.
Your videos are fantastic. Thanks for showing numerous ways to check the valve/solenoid. I have two Honda automobiles and appreciate all your Honda videos. Very descriptive. Thank you
Thank you for the comment!
I just spent 20 minutes looking for a honda evap diagram. Worth it! Thank you sir👍 liked & subscribed 👏
Thanks for the comment!
Excellent Demonstration about EVAP System.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Great video 👍 very helpful and understanding. Now I can fix mines without hesitation. Thank you for taking the time to show us how to properly diagnose the situation
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it!
Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the support!!
good explanation. got good understanding from EGR all the way back to fuel tank. nice board drawing explaining the testing process
Thanks!
Damn bro, this video was amazing. In every aspect.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
"if you live in the rust belt, these won't come off easy"
hahha what an understatement XD
lol
thank you for going over the diagnostics using the diagram, followed by the clear and detailed explanation. gonna try and tackle this job this weekend.
dufftime Thank you, I appreciate the comment.
Just discovered this channel. What a treat. Thank you
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thanks! I have a P1456 error even after replacing the gas cap. The car smells like fuel when it gets warm so something is definitely leaking... I don’t have all of the diagnostic tools you do so I’m probably going to have to take it to my mechanic but your diagram was very helpful. I at least have some idea what the issue might be so he knows where to start looking.
At least you know what you are up against now, thanks for the comment!
This is a good walkthrough. I have a P1456 on my 2000 2.3 ( not gas cap) I would love it if you had one of these videos for that code.
No I don't have a video on that code but I would fix it in a similar fashion, seal system and find the leak or bad component that is fooling the computer into thinking there is a leak. The computer looks for changes in the fuel tank pressure during certain testing conditions and when it doesn't see the changes it is looking for it sets a code (after 2 trips). Fuel Tank Pressure Sensors, Vent Solenoids, Two Way Bypass Solenoids and Check Valves, cracked/broken/plugged hoses, Charcoal Canisters etc can all cause that code. Some models are susceptible to charcoal being sucked into the lines and clogging the purge solenoid and lines to it. Thank you for the comment!
😎👍 Cool, super thanks buddy for the 'Technical School / Shop Class' primer on the Honda Charcoal Canister, now let me do some basic shotgunning on this puppy, yay! 🚙😍
Fantastic use of a whiteboard! Never thought to use that for diagnostics. Great video!
Thanks!
Absolutely love your videos. Thank you so very much for educating me and the entire DIY community.
Thank you!
Awesome video great explanation of the Honda evap system
Thanks 👍!
What a great video. If only more RUclips videos were like this 👏
Great video, sir! Very helpful! Hoping this is the problem on my 2004 Civic with P1457 code.
What was?
thanks, emission testing is coming up and I need to get this fixed or else I won't pass. I recently took my car to get it fixed but they replaced the bypass solenoid. It didn't fix it at all, after watching this video I think I might diagnose my self and fix it on my own thanks!
Eric Zacarias Thanks for the comment, I hope you get it fixed.
One of the best vids I've seen on this topic. Thanks
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Great video I enjoy watching them. I like how you demonstrate the use of the Snap-on scan tool and work with basic Pittsburgh Pro tools to get the job done. I love their ratchets.
miguel mendez Thanks for watching!
Best illustrated video! Thank you.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thank you for the great video.Had the same problem on my 02 accord and this video help me do it myself. Thank you again and keep up the good work.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thanks ! You are very informative and the visual on how you eliminated the was very , very good. PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK. Thanks again.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Fantastic presentation. Wonderful explication on the white board. Best I've seen! Thank you so much! Keep up the awesome work!
Forest Passineau Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
This exactly what I needed. I really liked how you gave the roadmap.
Glad it helped, thank you for the comment!
Very well done. Thorough, yet simple explanations. I'll be checking out your other videos.
Geo Logic Thank you for the comment!
This video is fantastic. A great lesson !! Thanks for the education !
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Great video, blessings from Steel City Canada
Thanks!
Is that Hamilton? I was born in Sarnia, grew up in the states.
Nice touch with the diagragm. It made it easy to understand. Thanks.
Thank you for the comment.
Great video! Hope to use this info to diagnose our 01 accord. Thanks
Excellent analysis and explanation. Thank you.
great video. step by step.
Sean Wheeler Thank you!
Excellent! Clear concise and thorough. And yeah, I would have had a sparky little 9 volt battery at the canister testing the Canister Vent Shut Valve solenoid. Of course - if I blow the car up it wont keep throwing codes, right? Thank you.
George stuart-vail lol, thank you for the comment.
Nice video, I like the way you show how to tested off the vehicle 👍
Thanks!
What part is that called to the right of the purge control valve solenoid under the hood?
I already switch out my entire charcoal canister assembly and still have that p1457.
Amazing video, the diagram was a very helpful aid. Thank you!
Thanks!
Excellent video thanks for showing the off vehicle diagnostics.
Arthur Fricchione Thanks!
Hi thank you for this video. I have a 99 Honda accord LX. The solenoid and canister were replaced. Now a week later I get a code of P1457. Do you have any suggestions for me after these parts were replaced?
Excellent video. Thank you so much. I will try to fix my car now. I have made a summary of the video, which will be helpful.
👍
at 20:19 what is the thing that looks like an oil filter? my car is making a hiss soind when i move it.
You sure earned my sub today. Thank you!
This is very helpful in understanding the system, could you please explain what is " Onboard Re???? Vaper Recovery" and its function Thank you
I will see if I can make a video on ORVR systems, thanks for the comment!
Very good video-it’s probably what’s wrong with mine-I’ll have to check it out-thanks
Thanks 👍!
Awesome video! Keep it coming! I never comment on RUclips, but you sir, busted my RUclips comment cherry.
lol, well thank you for the comment!
Great job man!! that was nice and clear.
Thank you!
Thank you, for this simple and detail video of the evap system straight to the point👨🏾🔧🥶🇯🇲🇨🇦👍🏾👌🏾💪🏾👏🏾🙏🏿.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
awesome vid !! very information and helpful!!! thanks for posting
Appreciate the comment!
This was one of the best videos I have seen on the P1457 code. My pressure test includes plugging all the holes and blowing into it. Unfortunately my canister vent solenoid passes the 9 volt battery test and the continuity test. So it appears my vent solenoid is working and I can find no leaks anywhere. My purge valve also holds a vacuum with the key on and has continuity. So where should I look next? The P1457 was also accompanied with serious misfiring with codes P0300, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0300. Could it be another problem that is causing the P1457 and the EVAP system is working?
FYI, my car is a 2003 Odyssey.
I suspect the P1457 is intermittent. I would fix the misfire codes first before even looking at the EVAP codes. Thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 So you think they are unrelated. Since they both happened the same time I figured the P1457 was the cause of the misfires. Perhaps I will reinstall the evap canister then and see if it continues to happen.
I tested the EVAP bypass solenoid valve using the same method in your video, although this is on the fuel tank side of the Evap system. Should this valve operate in the completely open or completely closed position? Without power it is completely open. When I hook a 9v battery to it the click is very faint and does not close, I can still suck and blow air through it, regardless of weather it is powered or not. Is this normal? The multimeter reading is 35. This solenoid has been a know issue for Honda.
Don't know if you'll see this but. My 98 accord is throwing both codes 1456 and 1457. At first it was only throwing 1457 i believe, my scanner said it was a tank side error. Should I just start by changing the vent solenoid? I visually inspected it yesterday, it all looked clean and in good condition, and the module on the engine i'm pretty sure is working right, and I replaced the vacuum lines on the engine side module when I rebuilt the engine.
I keep getting a P2422 EVAP CVS stuck closed. I have changed the valve and I still get the message after driving a few miles. The 2019 Accord was in water but I have removed the canister and removed the water. I was wondering if the canister needs to be replaced ? Thanks ,Scott
Very helpful, thank you so much for taking the time to make his video.
👍
Thank you! Very informative big dawg
Good job man. Well done.
I need help. I also have a check engine light with the evap system 90-1. It says a evap system leakage (Fuel Tank). Does it i have a fuel leak or do i have to replace the tank. Any advice/information or recommend links would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, saw that you have to remove some hoses to get it out. Will there be any liquid or gas come out of those hoses?
01 civic and it threw a p1457. I noticed the car is idling weird as well. As I let off the gas the rpms fall very low almost killing the engine. Are these problems possibly related?
If you have a P1456 code with hard to pump gas, would you still go after the gas cap or something else?
Where might you suggest could I find an evap canister solenoid for a 2001 Accord online? Thanks.
I like Rock Auto if I am not getting parts from my local Honda dealer.
I bought the canister and solenoid from Rock Auto for 127 dollars and did this myself on my daughter's 2002 Accord V6 about an hour time. Get parts from Honda and pay triple!
thank you so much ,your time ,effort and acknowledge .
Thank you for the comment!
Best Video!
I swapped the EVAP on my 2001 honda civic. However, the same code P01457 came back. When the code appears vehicle looses all power and gas pedal full floored car goes very slow. Did swap the gas cap a well... Any suggestion? Thanks
I would verify that the evap Purge Valve is working, especially whenever there is a drivability issue along with an evap code. With the engine running and the purge valve electrical plug disconnected, there should be no engine vacuum present on the evap canister side of the purge valve (not the engine side). This can usually be verified by disconnecting the electrical connector and the vacuum hose at the purge valve and checking for vacuum on evap side (there should not be any engine vacuum because the valve is normally closed). Sometimes they fail intermittently and can be difficult to diagnose. FYI, unplugging it and running the engine will most likely set a diagnostic trouble code for the purge valve (which can actually be used as a quick check to verify circuit integrity). Thanks for the comment!
Thank you. Does this make oil smells disappear from car? When I turn off engine I smell burn from it
Great video! I have P01456 code and I can smell gas when I exit the car after driving it. Replaced the fuel cap and didn't help. Any chance to show testing procedure for the tank side? I do have a smoke machine. Thanks.
A similar test can be done for a P1456, seal vent solenoid and fill system with smoke to look for leaks. The code is indicating there is a leak (or the system thinks there is a leak due to a faulty solenoid or fuel tank pressure sensor). Bad hoses, bad two way valve/bypass/vent solenoids, aftermarket fuel caps, bad fuel tank pressure sensors, damaged fuel filler neck areas etc. can all cause this code. It takes two trips to set this code (as long as all driving criteria are met to enable testing by the ECM), and three trips to clear on its own if fixed. If I get one in that has this code I will try and record it. Thanks for the comment!
Thank sir. Excellent video.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Hey good video. What about the code P0456, which side of your diagram correspond this code?
Thanks for help
I went over which areas I start looking at in video, but the trouble areas for codes like these can be anywhere in EVAP system unfortunately.
Very nice video. I have both the voltmeter and the vacuum tool that you showed. In the event that it is not the canister Solenoid Valve, is there a path forward without the smoke machine?
You can check the other solenoids to see if they are activating the same way I did in the video. After that, it becomes more difficult without a bidirectional scan tool and smoke machine.
late to this game, but which jack point did he use to lift the rear of the vehicle? I have been trying to find the proper jack point for the rear of this vehicle but to no avail.
The rear tow hook in the rear center of vehicle is proper lift point for this Honda. The jack stands go in front of rear wheels on reinforced pinch weld areas (20:20 min of video).
Oh my God I love your videos. Unfortunately I ain't too mechanic savy. I have a problem that has plagued me for about a year and lost about $300 on it. My vehicle is an 06 Honda Element California Emission originally, the vehicle is no longer in California. It started out with a p2422 evap vent valve stuck shut. The vehicle did not want to take gas when refueling. I paid a shop $200 to supposedly fix it. They say they replaced the valve. Three hundred miles later the code came back. I called them up and they were pissy about it, so I said screw it I will fix it myself. The shut valve looked like an original part, so they either did not fix it, or they put a used part on and charged me for new...or maybe they put a different part on instead of the valve. So I went to the junkyard and replaced the canister, canister vent valve, fuel pressure sensor and the seperator. Its been about 2k miles and the check engine light has stayed off, but I got a new problem related to it. I can hear multiple puffs of air coming from the evap system while running. I removed the gas cap while running and the vehicle stalled. I put the cap back on and started it. To my surprise there were no more puffs of air until it ran for a few minutes. The sound came back. I am at a loss for what to do next. I do not think the parts I put on were California emissions though, if that matters.
Some of the parts around that time frame are different depending on whether it was California emissions or not, so that might be an issue. I would double check all my work and make sure all hoses and connections are good (many times if a line is not connected properly you can hear a noise when the computer opens the purge valve). Unfortunately, without seeing it anything I tell you would be a guess. Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it!