I've been building for 65+ years and this question has come and gone numerous times over the years. Masking was always an issue talked about and one thing was clear, work cleanly. poor surface prep, fuzzy edged old masking tape, using excessive amounts of paint from a rattle can, poor airbrush skills and paint mixing will be your downfall every time. Take your time and learn masking basic's and you won't need to pile on more paint. Yes I have tried this method and found it's just another layer of paint covering your surface details. Like all other model skills, practice, practice,....
Interesting. I hadn't actually heard of this before. Then again, I have only had problems when I did a bad job of masking! Ordinarily I don't have any issues for 99.9% of the time. What I do tend to do in tricky cases (lots of tiny raised detail near the edge of the masked area, for example, is to give the Tamiya tape a blast with hot air from a hair dryer, then buffing the tape down some more. Work every time for me, and I don't need to use the AB twice!
I have never heard about this technique, so I did my own experiment. I used a scrap piece of styrene lap siding for n-scale. I primed it and then put down a piece of Tamiya tape and sprayed one side with clear gloss and the other side of the tape with satin gloss. I applied paint on both sides of the tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no bleeding on either side. I wish I had known this years ago. Thank you very much for this invaluable tip.
Very good video. Now for my question - If you are using the "Clears" to seal the tape to stop or reduce bleed of the darker color to the lighter color couldn't you use the base color to seal and stop the bleeding?
I’m new to this and I had heard of using the base color to do this, not a clear coat…great point and it would be helpful to test the difference between using base vs clear after masking.
Tamiya masking tape is very good, there are one or two other brands that come close too. With an airbrush, I was taught to seal the tape with a dust coat of the colour being used. Wait for it to dry (or use a hairdryer) and then start painting. One less stage, plus little paint, varnish or lacquer build up. TBH with modern products the need for such measures is greatly reduced imho. Although, I always press down the tape well, using an appropriate tool, such as a sculpting tool in an appropriate shape (that doesn't tear the tape). I hope that helps 👍🤞💜✌️😊
I don’t understand the initial question...there’s no reason to think you get no bleeding with the clear coat, you undoubtedly do...but it’s hidden/melts into the final clear coat that you apply over everything including your masked coat. And it does work. PS I like Alclad clear (not aqua) for this cause it sprays a nice thin, even wet layer.
I think you'll find that the biggest reason for the clearcoat comes from flat airbrushing. I'm an airbrush artist... I.e. I do flat artworks with an airbrush. I hold down my medium with masking tape and I nearly always get bleed through of my basecoat. The solution of adding a clear coat of some description, sometimes something even as thick as mod podge. I wouldn't do that for a model, but giving the example. If people have used this technique from ages ago with flat artworks, it only makes sense that the technique would transfer over to models. And they ARE superior... it's just that maybe the paints have improved so that it is less necessary.
As others have said, clear seems like extra work and layers, i was told many years ago, and have used may times with sucess to mask, then use the base coat to 'seal in the edge' before using the next layer and its always worked well.
Nice!!🤔 I love getting 'Myths Busted/Resolved'!!! Question for a new myth..... do you need to clear coat an area that you apply decals on?? I deal with aircraft carriers and some of the decals are like the ones on the flight deck where helicopters could land.... it is a sparce decal but a Lot of film. 🤨 On a separate question: Do I gloss-/flat-coat before using a panel liner??🤨 Thanks for the current post.
The general rule about clear coating before applying decals is because of the decal setting solution. Most decal setting solutions can damage the paint as they contain mild solvents. Gloss coats are usually used as it makes it easier to slide the decals around. Same rule for panel liners, the gloss coat generally aids the capillary action of the panel liners to make it into the crevices. You can also reduce the outline of the decals by cutting away the excess film. Making good use of decal softening products can also help. Finishing up with flat varnish can help make the decals look painted on as well.
@@middlingmodeler Got It... So 'GlossCoat' first before applying decals and/or panel liner, then Flats if needed.👍👍 Do You recommend any brand... I Mostly use acrylic paints 'Vallejo Air', 'Tamiya', sometimes I use 'Mr. Color' acrylic. Would you use a Different brand if using a lacquer paint, I have 'Alclad 2'.🤨🤔 Thanks for the reply!!
I don't have much experience using lacquer, so I don't have a good answer there. Mostly I use acrylics. I tend to use either X-22 or Mr. Super Clear for gloss coating. For flat coats, my favorite is AK Ultra Matte varnish.
@@middlingmodeler W O W !!! Quick Response!! Cool Beans... I use that 'Mr. Super Clear', just started using it, it seems to work out Quite nicely for me as well!! 'AK Ultra Matte'.... I'll look into it. I Might Just 'Subscribe' to your Channel for your help and tips!! Thanks, again for Quickest Reply!!
There is a missing scenario in the test swatch: When one head of a tape meets another tape to form a right angle. This is a mask configuration very hard to get precisely even on a smooth surface like in the test. For example the F-14 has a series of squares and rectangles very close to each other in its shoulders, I think this technique is the only one that gives you squares with crisp sharp corners, other one being maybe buying a precutted stencil, which I haven’t tried.
Interesting experiment. One question if I may? Your clear coats and some of your sprays were, shall we say acrylic lacquers. The other Tamiya paint from the small jars were they thinned with lacquers or alcohol? Do you think that made any difference? I'm already sold, don't get me wrong. I am being the devil's advocate here. Check, check and recheck everyone else's results.
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I've been building for 65+ years and this question has come and gone numerous times over the years. Masking was always an issue talked about and one thing was clear, work cleanly. poor surface prep, fuzzy edged old masking tape, using excessive amounts of paint from a rattle can, poor airbrush skills and paint mixing will be your downfall every time. Take your time and learn masking basic's and you won't need to pile on more paint. Yes I have tried this method and found it's just another layer of paint covering your surface details. Like all other model skills, practice, practice,....
Interesting. I hadn't actually heard of this before. Then again, I have only had problems when I did a bad job of masking! Ordinarily I don't have any issues for 99.9% of the time. What I do tend to do in tricky cases (lots of tiny raised detail near the edge of the masked area, for example, is to give the Tamiya tape a blast with hot air from a hair dryer, then buffing the tape down some more. Work every time for me, and I don't need to use the AB twice!
I have never heard about this technique, so I did my own experiment. I used a scrap piece of styrene lap siding for n-scale. I primed it and then put down a piece of Tamiya tape and sprayed one side with clear gloss and the other side of the tape with satin gloss. I applied paint on both sides of the tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no bleeding on either side. I wish I had known this years ago. Thank you very much for this invaluable tip.
Very good video. Now for my question - If you are using the "Clears" to seal the tape to stop or reduce bleed of the darker color to the lighter color couldn't you use the base color to seal and stop the bleeding?
I’m new to this and I had heard of using the base color to do this, not a clear coat…great point and it would be helpful to test the difference between using base vs clear after masking.
Tamiya masking tape is very good, there are one or two other brands that come close too. With an airbrush, I was taught to seal the tape with a dust coat of the colour being used. Wait for it to dry (or use a hairdryer) and then start painting. One less stage, plus little paint, varnish or lacquer build up. TBH with modern products the need for such measures is greatly reduced imho. Although, I always press down the tape well, using an appropriate tool, such as a sculpting tool in an appropriate shape (that doesn't tear the tape). I hope that helps 👍🤞💜✌️😊
Great to see some real laboratory-style testing going on in the modelling world! Well done Sir!
Glad you enjoyed it!
After burnishing the masking tape, I carefully brush a thin coat of paint along masking line, let it dry, then use my airbrush. Good results.
I don’t understand the initial question...there’s no reason to think you get no bleeding with the clear coat, you undoubtedly do...but it’s hidden/melts into the final clear coat that you apply over everything including your masked coat. And it does work. PS I like Alclad clear (not aqua) for this cause it sprays a nice thin, even wet layer.
I think you'll find that the biggest reason for the clearcoat comes from flat airbrushing.
I'm an airbrush artist... I.e. I do flat artworks with an airbrush. I hold down my medium with masking tape and I nearly always get bleed through of my basecoat. The solution of adding a clear coat of some description, sometimes something even as thick as mod podge. I wouldn't do that for a model, but giving the example.
If people have used this technique from ages ago with flat artworks, it only makes sense that the technique would transfer over to models. And they ARE superior... it's just that maybe the paints have improved so that it is less necessary.
As others have said, clear seems like extra work and layers, i was told many years ago, and have used may times with sucess to mask, then use the base coat to 'seal in the edge' before using the next layer and its always worked well.
Nice!!🤔
I love getting 'Myths Busted/Resolved'!!!
Question for a new myth..... do you need to clear coat an area that you apply decals on?? I deal with aircraft carriers and some of the decals are like the ones on the flight deck where helicopters could land.... it is a sparce decal but a Lot of film. 🤨
On a separate question: Do I gloss-/flat-coat before using a panel liner??🤨
Thanks for the current post.
The general rule about clear coating before applying decals is because of the decal setting solution. Most decal setting solutions can damage the paint as they contain mild solvents. Gloss coats are usually used as it makes it easier to slide the decals around. Same rule for panel liners, the gloss coat generally aids the capillary action of the panel liners to make it into the crevices. You can also reduce the outline of the decals by cutting away the excess film. Making good use of decal softening products can also help. Finishing up with flat varnish can help make the decals look painted on as well.
@@middlingmodeler Got It... So 'GlossCoat' first before applying decals and/or panel liner, then Flats if needed.👍👍
Do You recommend any brand... I Mostly use acrylic paints 'Vallejo Air', 'Tamiya', sometimes I use 'Mr. Color' acrylic. Would you use a Different brand if using a lacquer paint, I have 'Alclad 2'.🤨🤔
Thanks for the reply!!
I don't have much experience using lacquer, so I don't have a good answer there. Mostly I use acrylics. I tend to use either X-22 or Mr. Super Clear for gloss coating. For flat coats, my favorite is AK Ultra Matte varnish.
@@middlingmodeler W O W !!! Quick Response!!
Cool Beans... I use that 'Mr. Super Clear', just started using it, it seems to work out Quite nicely for me as well!! 'AK Ultra Matte'.... I'll look into it.
I Might Just 'Subscribe' to your Channel for your help and tips!! Thanks, again for Quickest Reply!!
@@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P You are welcome! And thanks for the sub!
There is a missing scenario in the test swatch: When one head of a tape meets another tape to form a right angle. This is a mask configuration very hard to get precisely even on a smooth surface like in the test. For example the F-14 has a series of squares and rectangles very close to each other in its shoulders, I think this technique is the only one that gives you squares with crisp sharp corners, other one being maybe buying a precutted stencil, which I haven’t tried.
Never heard of this before,
I don't use a clear coat to seal the masking tape. I just hit the very edge with a light coat or two of the color I just painted.
I never considered it added a thickened layer haha.
Cool
Interesting experiment.
One question if I may?
Your clear coats and some of your sprays were, shall we say acrylic lacquers.
The other Tamiya paint from the small jars were they thinned with lacquers or alcohol?
Do you think that made any difference? I'm already sold, don't get me wrong. I am being the devil's advocate here.
Check, check and recheck everyone else's results.
The Tamiya paints from the jar were thinned with X20A.
And I most likely missed that when you said it.
My bad for the redundancy
Science.....
cool video +1 Sub
You won't get a crisp line with CC.... But it doesn't matter because it's clear... 😒
Just the tip gets you a sub,ha ha haa.
This does not work . There is no end to the tips and tricks in making plastic scale models. And most of them do not really work.