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I think you'll find that the biggest reason for the clearcoat comes from flat airbrushing. I'm an airbrush artist... I.e. I do flat artworks with an airbrush. I hold down my medium with masking tape and I nearly always get bleed through of my basecoat. The solution of adding a clear coat of some description, sometimes something even as thick as mod podge. I wouldn't do that for a model, but giving the example. If people have used this technique from ages ago with flat artworks, it only makes sense that the technique would transfer over to models. And they ARE superior... it's just that maybe the paints have improved so that it is less necessary.

Hi, the vallejio you use is an alcohol thinner, right?

Did you try the dspiae db-01 bits? Amazon claims they are 2.9mm.

Just the tip gets you a sub,ha ha haa.

Very honest and informative review. Obviously ICM production designers are NOT modelers.

There is a missing scenario in the test swatch: When one head of a tape meets another tape to form a right angle. This is a mask configuration very hard to get precisely even on a smooth surface like in the test. For example the F-14 has a series of squares and rectangles very close to each other in its shoulders, I think this technique is the only one that gives you squares with crisp sharp corners, other one being maybe buying a precutted stencil, which I haven’t tried.

You won't get a crisp line with CC.... But it doesn't matter because it's clear... 😒

Great to see some real laboratory-style testing going on in the modelling world! Well done Sir!

Amazing work

thanks for review, I was wondering if the collet would fit the .125" arbors,thanks.

I'm finding the opposite, too many intricate parts

Wow, that was quick! 😁 Appreciate the reupload, it does look like a fun little kit!

After burnishing the masking tape, I carefully brush a thin coat of paint along masking line, let it dry, then use my airbrush. Good results.

It's on odd kit. I like it in a perverse way! Hahahah. The wheel wells are .........odd. The cockpit can be improved by scratch building some details but those odd wheel wells..............

Interesting. I hadn't actually heard of this before. Then again, I have only had problems when I did a bad job of masking! Ordinarily I don't have any issues for 99.9% of the time. What I do tend to do in tricky cases (lots of tiny raised detail near the edge of the masked area, for example, is to give the Tamiya tape a blast with hot air from a hair dryer, then buffing the tape down some more. Work every time for me, and I don't need to use the AB twice!

Great finish! I subscribed!

sick build, looks great

FIRST

This will definitely come in handy for car interiors

I.C.M. have some interesting kits, but some are just way over/ under engineered depending on your view point. Thanks for the handy tips.

I see what you did there.....😊 BTW - The Army Painter Drybrushes suck.

Interesting. I've built one a couple years ago, the review was published in the SAM magazine, and it was really easy kit to build. I've had no fit issues whatsoever. It only lacks a bit of detail that needs to be scratch built. So I am really surprised by your conclusion.

Excellent build of a difficult kit, however, Hanna Reitsch, was not a "bleached blonde" and she was severely injured in the crash of the V-1 , and in hospital for almost six months recovering, so it is unlikely she would have been casually standing next to the crash. Operation Crossbow was so " Hollywood inaccurate " However , overall an interesting diorama telling the story of a great individual.

very intresting. and awsom result.

Great product, thanks for doing what Tamiya doesnt - showing how to use it! I forgo the X20A and Flow Improver and use Mr. Levelling Thinner for amazing results!

I have never heard about this technique, so I did my own experiment. I used a scrap piece of styrene lap siding for n-scale. I primed it and then put down a piece of Tamiya tape and sprayed one side with clear gloss and the other side of the tape with satin gloss. I applied paint on both sides of the tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no bleeding on either side. I wish I had known this years ago. Thank you very much for this invaluable tip.

I love using this to make a clear flat by mixing it into Future thinned down with alcohol.

Awesome tip. Thanks friend.

Nice build out, and I definitely benefited from the video, primarily because more cars becoming do parts heavy it fan be frustrating I do like ICM kits. They have certainly expanded their kits to cover just about every thing you can imagine over land sea or air. I was surprised their packaging of the box was not up to their usual standards and the drivers didn't match. Still you have a vintage truck that displays very well. Thanks for sharing. What's coming up next?

THIS was the video I was looking for =) I've switched from Future to Gauzy and was looking into finding a flattening agent for it. I have tried Tamiya's own clear, flat, and semi flat clears, but they dont hold up under aggressive use of enamel/oil thinners (washes, dot filter work, etc.). I've accidentally gotten Tamiya/Gunze lacquer thinner on Gauzy and it didnt affect it. Ordering some X-21 and will run some tests. Thanks!

I brush paint my Tamiya paints as they lay down beautifully, well the flat paints do. I use the flat base when I need colors they don't offer in flat. Thanks for spreading the word for those that didn't know about this awesome product.

There after 4:30, that "front whatever it is" is an unditching channel/beam/ramp - at this point on the calendar I'm no longer sure what second word of the item's name is, last time I was in to military vehicles was 1990s. Some great looking figures in that little thing, Ahh, memories, the 2nd Tamiya model I ever built was their 1/35 edition of this way back around 1974. Its 2 guys were suitable for desert only. 📚📖Hey, a web find just now: See if you can find, issue 162, November 2014, Classic Military Vehicle magazine, looks to have a nice article about the vehicle. Aha, "Unditching Channel' is the part's proper name. Couple bits from article, Dingo was permanent 4WD, and quite fast on both raids and terrain. _(I meant _*_roads_*_ but yeah, guess it would be fast on raids too!)_ And the Germans were quite happy to use the ones left behind at Dunkirk. British Army used the type until the 1950s. Slightly modified copies were built by Ford in Canada, and in 1944 by Lancia. 😄Yes, actually, this was one of my favorite military vehicles when I was in to that.

How do I get this model? I want to buy one badly.

Superb!

Never heard of this before,

In this video you had equal parts of X 21 and your gloss paint, have you ever experimented dropping the ratio to try to get a semi gloss?

This old kit will still stand up to today's kits !

I've been building for 65+ years and this question has come and gone numerous times over the years. Masking was always an issue talked about and one thing was clear, work cleanly. poor surface prep, fuzzy edged old masking tape, using excessive amounts of paint from a rattle can, poor airbrush skills and paint mixing will be your downfall every time. Take your time and learn masking basic's and you won't need to pile on more paint. Yes I have tried this method and found it's just another layer of paint covering your surface details. Like all other model skills, practice, practice,....

cool video +1 Sub

As others have said, clear seems like extra work and layers, i was told many years ago, and have used may times with sucess to mask, then use the base coat to 'seal in the edge' before using the next layer and its always worked well.

I never considered it added a thickened layer haha.

DSPIAE shot them selves in the foot by not using a 1/8" shank ability in the tool. If they did they would sell like crazy.

Thanks. I was wondering what the proper mixing ratio was.

I use a Proxxon. True it's more expensive but it's smaller than a Dremel and uses a reostat control so you can adjust the speed from very slow to light speed. You do need to use a Proxxon transformer for the rotary tool to plug into. I really like it more than any other tool of this type I've ever tried.

For that price, I'd think about a Dremel which is going to be better unless the size different is critical to your use.

Nice quality tool, but over priced for what you get especially for building basic model gets, you don't need to do that much drilling. It would be useful for grinding and sanding in small places but there are no tools made for it. With the price of model kits, ill invest my 50 bucks in one of those. It just first have enough tools for the bucks.

This does not work . There is no end to the tips and tricks in making plastic scale models. And most of them do not really work.

A really great tip! I've been able to up my game a LOT through a better understanding of mediums. I can't wait to try this - funny you should mention orange. Certain colors have always had saturation problems for me - but Tamiya is very nice and their orange and yellow really show out! Thanks for another tool in my belt!

Cool effects 🖌

Cool