I love this type of outside the box (at least my box) solution to a problem like this. It seems much simpler than more traditional approaches while still producing an excellent result.
I haven't read all the comments here so, apologies for any possible duplication. For those of us on the European side of the pond, "Latex" paint = water based emulsion paint! It uses a latex binding agent. So, for all of us, myself included, desperately looking for "latex" paint, it's bog standard emulsion!!😂
I am assuming the same paint used to paint home interior walls would be in Europe? This is called latex paint in the US. It is water based and has a rubberized component (latex).
Highly unlikely latex is actually used in any paint anywhere these days, most latex use has been replaced with synthetic polymers, including in tyres although in that case some latex is still used. It's like the term Waxed paper, not really a real thing in most cases these days, since wax has largely been replaced with polymer substitutes.
This has got to be one of the weirdest tips I've ever heard of on the surface (pun intended). But that works amazingly well. Will keep this in mind for my next aircraft build. Love your channel. Keep up the good work.
I tried this tip today and it works really well. I'm in the UK and I used Bedec Multi Surface Gloss White from Toolstation, which dries quickly. Great tip; thank you!
Great idea and you must be congratulated for taking a risk doing that!!! Apparently latex paint is just emulsion paint in the UK. AFAIK latex is not used in paints much anywhere if at all. It's been replaced with synthetic polymers.
I use Mr. Hobby white and thin it with Acetone to nearly a fluid. I use a brush to apply the putty. Consistency can be from thick yogurt to milk, so you can use the thickness you want. If you practice you can actually eliminate any sanding by going back with an Acetone wet brush and smooth the edges. But this looks really cool too.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Not a problem, right now I'm finishing up a 1/72nd scale Zvezda Su-39, I have an Italeri Su-27 up next that I'm absolutely sure will have gaps needing filling. I'll post a link when I get it done!
This technique might also be applicable to flying models, where performance can be affected by the smoothness of airflow around eg ducted fans etc. Food for thought.
Thanks, I can’t wait to try this myself. For years, I have painstakingly used all kinds of sanding sticks (both store-bought and homemade) files, etc. to smear putty on the seams, sand, then paint, but this seems like, although it’s a little messy it’s a lot less effort and the results are fantastic! 👍👍🙂
At first you think wow that's a lot of paint, then realize there is no way to use a tiny bottle or tin of model paint to accomplish this . Plus you can always look at returned mixes the paint store if you don't have paint around the house. Thanks for an awesome tip, Cheers.
Incredibly good idea, but small correction they haven't really made latex paint in about 20 years now as its all polyurethane or oil now. Don't use oil for this as acrylics cant bond to it. Also fun fact(can supply proof if needed to some extent), house paints are chemically identical to most hobby paints so you can thin them down with water and get a very similar result.
Sigh… This is a technique I personally developed like 20 years ago. I first used it on an F-16 build and sprung it on the modeling world and was excited! When I posted this technique, people called it “lazy” , and I should “just fill those seams like a real modeler”. Too funny after all these years it has caught on.
Useing house paint is way over kill. You can use a producy called White-Out (Bic). This was suggested many years ago, when White-out was more prevelant.
@@StyreneModelersHaven . If you try it, use original not the green one, it self levels said you flood the trunk and “swirl “it about, it should cover it all in an even coat. Even has a brush !
Most model building techniques are unnecessarily complicated and I used to skip them. That's why my models always used to look like junk while these look incredible
Here is a question, why isn't the hobby moving into the 21 century with the rest of technology? Why is it stuck in the 60's, it's time to ditch the BS kits
Agreed! Biggest pet peeve is aircraft kits not including a canopy paint mask. How much does a piece of precut tape cost? If they have the tech to tool a kit, they have the tech to cut a mask. A $200 Cricut will do the job with a cut file. But noooo…spend more for a aftermarket mask or hours masking.
@@davidkendall1614 Well, I don't use pre cut masks because I think they are not only very poor value for money, they can add a lot to the cost of a kit. The prices for a few bits of sticky paper are ridiculous so, I just make my own. As for including in a kit?Well, that's not a bad idea. I'd think that the economies of scale would keep the prices down so, they wouldn't add to much to the cost of a kit. Some kits DO include masks but,not many.
@@allanford9731 Good point. I’ve done kits where the mask was included…I am not talking about Eduard ProfiPack where you pay additional for the extras, but regular kits…so if THEY can do it, all manufacturers can. Even uncut masks in some Tamiya kits are useful. At least the required shapes are provided. So surely every manufacturer could at least print the shapes to scales, even if it’s in the instructions and not on self adhesive! Make it easier to self cut masks with precision. Glazed canopies with many individual panes of glass of complex shapes are a PITA, and they don’t have to be.
@@davidkendall1614 ICM has included a 1:1 mask template printed in the instructions for their most recent kits. (i.e. A-26). That seems like a great deal for us customers and a really low cost for the manufacturer!
An ACTUAL TIP and tecnnique on RUclips! Thank you for this idea.
Glad it was helpful!
Just for anyone who’s interested - white radiator enamel paint works really well for this as well.
Thanks for the tip!
I love this type of outside the box (at least my box) solution to a problem like this. It seems much simpler than more traditional approaches while still producing an excellent result.
Glad you like it!
This is a new one on me and looks really interesting.
I haven't read all the comments here so, apologies for any possible duplication. For those of us on the European side of the pond, "Latex" paint = water based emulsion paint! It uses a latex binding agent. So, for all of us, myself included, desperately looking for "latex" paint, it's bog standard emulsion!!😂
I am assuming the same paint used to paint home interior walls would be in Europe? This is called latex paint in the US. It is water based and has a rubberized component (latex).
Highly unlikely latex is actually used in any paint anywhere these days, most latex use has been replaced with synthetic polymers, including in tyres although in that case some latex is still used.
It's like the term Waxed paper, not really a real thing in most cases these days, since wax has largely been replaced with polymer substitutes.
Nicely done. I've done too many jets where the biggest mess was the intake(s). Adding this technique to my repertoire.
Glad it helped!
This has got to be one of the weirdest tips I've ever heard of on the surface (pun intended). But that works amazingly well. Will keep this in mind for my next aircraft build. Love your channel. Keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful!
Have heard about this approach before and now seen it alive! Many thanks for demonstration! I will certainly need it on my projects :)
Glad it was helpful!
I tried this tip today and it works really well. I'm in the UK and I used Bedec Multi Surface Gloss White from Toolstation, which dries quickly. Great tip; thank you!
Thanks for sharing! Really appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Great idea and you must be congratulated for taking a risk doing that!!!
Apparently latex paint is just emulsion paint in the UK.
AFAIK latex is not used in paints much anywhere if at all. It's been replaced with synthetic polymers.
The result speaks for itself. Well done!
Thank you!
I use Mr. Hobby white and thin it with Acetone to nearly a fluid. I use a brush to apply the putty. Consistency can be from thick yogurt to milk, so you can use the thickness you want. If you practice you can actually eliminate any sanding by going back with an Acetone wet brush and smooth the edges. But this looks really cool too.
Would love to see your technique. Please post a video.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Not a problem, right now I'm finishing up a 1/72nd scale Zvezda Su-39, I have an Italeri Su-27 up next that I'm absolutely sure will have gaps needing filling. I'll post a link when I get it done!
If you do that, you can usually speed things up by stabbing a small hole through the tape when draining it to get a better airflow.
Great tip!
Now THAT is a great, original tip!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Legit actual novel tip. Well done and very creative
Thank you!
Great ideas, I have the Airfix Vulcan 🖖 to complete the intakes to do. Thanks. 😊
This technique might also be applicable to flying models, where performance can be affected by the smoothness of airflow around eg ducted fans etc. Food for thought.
Great point!
Thanks, I can’t wait to try this myself. For years, I have painstakingly used all kinds of sanding sticks (both store-bought and homemade) files, etc. to smear putty on the seams, sand, then paint, but this seems like, although it’s a little messy it’s a lot less effort and the results are fantastic! 👍👍🙂
I too was impressed with the results.
I saw this on a website, can't remember where but good to see this in video format
Thank you!
Absolutely amazing idea and result!!!
Thank you!
Fantastic idea 💡 👍😀
Glad you think so!
Great top. The intakes look great.
Thank you!
Brilliant solution! Thanks for sharing.
No problem 👍
excellent tip and timely too!
Glad you think so!
Yes!!! Helpful indeed. Thanks!!
You're so welcome!
Very cool technique. Will have to try this. So tired of fighting seams.
Thank you!
Ingenious! Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
wow
Wow now this will come in handy
Thanks for watching!
Very clever!
Glad you think so!
At first you think wow that's a lot of paint, then realize there is no way to use a tiny bottle or tin of model paint to accomplish this . Plus you can always look at returned mixes the paint store if you don't have paint around the house. Thanks for an awesome tip, Cheers.
Yes, exactly or buy a sample small tin of paint at the hardware store.
Great tip. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
You have invented PUTTY-PAINT!
Lol!
Incredibly good idea, but small correction they haven't really made latex paint in about 20 years now as its all polyurethane or oil now. Don't use oil for this as acrylics cant bond to it.
Also fun fact(can supply proof if needed to some extent), house paints are chemically identical to most hobby paints so you can thin them down with water and get a very similar result.
Great info!
Too cool 😎
Genius!
Thank you!
Sigh…
This is a technique I personally developed like 20 years ago. I first used it on an F-16 build and sprung it on the modeling world and was excited! When I posted this technique, people called it “lazy” , and I should “just fill those seams like a real modeler”. Too funny after all these years it has caught on.
Interesting!
Clever idea
Thank you!
very clever!
Thank you! Cheers!
Good job !
Thank you! Cheers!
most helpful
Glad you think so!
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice tip 👌
Glad you liked it!
Grab some milliput, roll, press, apply, done. What are you doing my guy?
If it works for you, great! Lots of ways to accomplish the same task. Please post a video of your technique.
Clever!
Thank you!
Beauty of this is if you get it wrong, it’s latex…wash it out!
great point! Thanks for watching.
Useing house paint is way over kill. You can use a producy called White-Out (Bic). This was suggested many years ago, when White-out was more prevelant.
If you can't get enough white out, house paint is another way to go.
Spock says "fascinating"!🤔
Jman
A fellow Trekkie!
@@StyreneModelersHaven STOS for me!😁
Jman
Logical 👍
tippex is good for this seam filling
Interesting. Not familiar with that.
@@StyreneModelersHaven . If you try it, use original not the green one, it self levels said you flood the trunk and “swirl “it about, it should cover it all in an even coat. Even has a brush !
.....👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Even if the real thing is white, pure white on a scale model doesn't look real, it should always be "off-white." Same with black.
Good tip
That can of paint will last you 652 years!!
LoL!
Well looks like your around $80.00 into house paints! Behr paint ain't cheap
Just using left over paint from around the house.
@@StyreneModelersHavenAnd it’s not like you are using a gallon
Hmmmmmm...........................Seems unnecessarily complicated....... Maybe he needs it to be for some therapeutic reasons
Building models is my therapy!
Most model building techniques are unnecessarily complicated and I used to skip them. That's why my models always used to look like junk while these look incredible
Here is a question, why isn't the hobby moving into the 21 century with the rest of technology? Why is it stuck in the 60's, it's time to ditch the BS kits
So many great kits and products are coming out it seems like everyday. It really is the golden age of the hobby.
Agreed! Biggest pet peeve is aircraft kits not including a canopy paint mask. How much does a piece of precut tape cost? If they have the tech to tool a kit, they have the tech to cut a mask. A $200 Cricut will do the job with a cut file. But noooo…spend more for a aftermarket mask or hours masking.
@@davidkendall1614 Well, I don't use pre cut masks because I think they are not only very poor value for money, they can add a lot to the cost of a kit. The prices for a few bits of sticky paper are ridiculous so, I just make my own. As for including in a kit?Well, that's not a bad idea. I'd think that the economies of scale would keep the prices down so, they wouldn't add to much to the cost of a kit. Some kits DO include masks but,not many.
@@allanford9731 Good point. I’ve done kits where the mask was included…I am not talking about Eduard ProfiPack where you pay additional for the extras, but regular kits…so if THEY can do it, all manufacturers can. Even uncut masks in some Tamiya kits are useful. At least the required shapes are provided. So surely every manufacturer could at least print the shapes to scales, even if it’s in the instructions and not on self adhesive! Make it easier to self cut masks with precision. Glazed canopies with many individual panes of glass of complex shapes are a PITA, and they don’t have to be.
@@davidkendall1614 ICM has included a 1:1 mask template printed in the instructions for their most recent kits. (i.e. A-26). That seems like a great deal for us customers and a really low cost for the manufacturer!