If I may suggest this, when you are letting your Parts to dry over night or 24-hours, cover them with a Bowl or a Drinking Glass. This will help protect the Parts from unwanted things in the air such Pet Hairs, Lint, and Dust from landing on the Parts while they are still WET... That's what I do with mine Clear Parts.
I use a small plastic container with a sheet of paper towel on the bottom and a lid to seal mine up. I always wait several days before taking them out.
MH53JTom in fact I used to do it, but now I have a new method is more efficient. You can put the transparent parts in front of a air outlet it could avoid the dust or other dirts, in the same time it would be more helpful with drying. That is my experience.
PJ B that can be used for shine and protect. You can use it for protection of models surface. As a replacement of gloss. But it not work for transparent parts' crystalline.
After dipping and blotting on the tissue or paper towel I then set it on wax paper with a cover on it to prevent dust. The wax paper prevents the possibility of it sticking or pulling particles from the tissue. I usually find a styrofoam or clear plastic cup to cover it while it dries. Hope that makes sense. Love the videos!
I actually had to stop the video to look up "Bob's your uncle". Its similar to us over here saying "There ya go", "put it in the books" or "Thats it in a nutshell". I now know some things i never knew before, like using Pledge floor polish for my canopy finish (great tip), and that Bob is my uncle and thats the ticket!
Great video & great tip, mate - thanks! A couple of tips of my own - I use a small, fine-toothed razor saw to remove clear parts from the sprue, doesn't make stress-marks in the styrene, and clean-up is a doddle. And toothpaste is good for polishing out scratches (don't use the stuff with bicarb in, it can be a bit too aggressive). Thanks again, keep 'em coming!
Thanks. Here in the USA I'm using Pledge floor/Future wax. I think you might have an old bottle of the stuff. It should not be yellow. I'm looking at a glass jar of it right now and it's crystal clear.
Hi Dave congratulations on your magazine contribution i will endeavor to head out and buy it today i also live in Australia Perth , also thanks for taking the time to make your videos i don't think there is one that i have not seen. i have just got back into making models and thanks to you my first model looks better than any other i have ever made in the past back in the 70s cheers Dave
Hi Michael, thank you so, so much for that comment. It makes me very happy to hear what you said, it really means a lot to me. Is there anywhere online I can see your builds? Cheers mate, Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop Hi Dave. Loved the "Ah....BOLLOCKS!!" at 4.44!! That's modelling!! Thanks for your tips!! They've helped me build better models too! 👍
Dave's Model Workshop that's what I've heard and is good to hear another confirmation. I'd use it as cheaper top coat before weathering etc. Can't wait. Thanks for the info.
First video of yours I've seen, it's both a helpful video but your commentary/personality style are great. Thanks for the vid man, I'll be checking out more of your stuff.
Outlawflyer78 ah, bugger, this is an old video from before I started the red outline. I hadn’t considered the video bar along the bottom... hmmm, might have to rethink my design. Thanks for the heads-up.
Gday Dave, i have the same stuff at home and its the best even for sealing as you know, When I seal the models and then use Tamiya panel wash, I clean it with zippo lighter fluid and its the best and the stuff doesn't yellow at all. great video made keep it up. .
With regard to the yellow issue, I believe it doesn't matter because the layer adhering to the canopy is so thin. The Pledge doesn't 'yellow' the plastic over time. Plastic food wrap exhibits the same characteristics. It can look slightly colored when layered thick on the roll but appears clear when you look through a single ply.
This is really useful - thank you! Knowing that this will prevent the dreaded super-glue fogging is brilliant news. For taking out marks on screens (I'm mostly working on restoring diecast cars) I've been using 800 grit or finer, then T Cut automotive paint restorer. This Pledge looks much better. Something I have yet to discover is what glue or product will stick broken screens back together without leaving a visible join.
is it just me,or does a bloke with a british accent always sound confident and truthful?i mean high english of course! excellent video,and i would put a clean glass or plastic bowl over top to hinder lint and the like.
Nothing to apologise about pzkpfwiv freak! But yes, I'm Australian, not British ;) Good call about the cover to stop dust and lint, by the way, I wish I had included that in my video. Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave , spotted this wonderful video at somewhat of an appropriate time, have only recently discovered the issues with Tamiya extra thin cement and model canopies, your use of pledge prior to building sounds genius - however , both these products are now out of production and a suitable replacement I believe is Holloway House Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish . However this product has a milky consistency which does appear to dry clear , and supposedly does the same job! My ? Could you prepare the canopies with this prior to hand painting “ Frame lines” on the canopies or will this gloss protection affect the paint job ? Tricky one , but have seen a u- tube video using this product apparently doing the job ! What do you think Dave . Best wishes . Ed
Hi Ed, I'm not aware of the product you mentioned but it sounds like it would be very similar to Future. I'd test it on a bit of clear sprue first. As for painting on top of the clear coat, you should be fine to do so. Best of luck! Dave
Love the finish it leaves, and soooooooo good to find another Aussie channel for modelling, makes a nice change hearing all the aussie'isms throughout 😁 am just getting back into modelling after a hiatus of many many years, and thoroughly looking forward to it. Cheers from western Sydney and have a safe and happy New Year!!!!
I don't sand away the Future - if you do so, you may still get fogging of the canopy (the Future protects it from reacting with the CA glue). The bond isn't quite as strong as a result, I will admit, but it saves you from the dreaded fogging. Dave
For a 2 oz bottle of Novus 1 and a 2 oz bottle of Novus 2, I bought them from Amazon.com for 9 dollars. I didn't buy Novus 3 because I am not sure if the part I am polishing will need it yet. Just trying to see if no 2 will do the trick :)
Ah, that's a lot cheaper than what I saw here in my Australian google results. Maybe it is expensive here ($50 for three bottles) as it has to be imported?
especially if your seller is overseas try looking it up on Amazon in Australian currency and see if you get anything cheaper than 50 dollars. But keep in mind I only bought two bottles. I found this set just now for 11.25 dollars. www.amazon.com/Novus-Bed-Polish-Kit-1-2-3/dp/B003Z9J0DG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536798643&sr=8-1&keywords=novus+3+2+oz
Great video, thanks ! Am new to this game ( well after about a 40yr lay off 😁) Do you paint the canopy frames before or after treating ? If after, are there any additional things to consider? Thanks in advance 😊
Hi Nigel, I paint the canopy frames after dipping in the gloss, so that the framework isn't glossier than the surrounding fuselage paint (which it would be if you painted the frame first, then dipped). Re: additional things - i can't think of any, just be careful with masking and you should be good :) Cheers, Dave
great tutorial, there seems to be a mark on the front canopy about a third the way up from the front, is that another imperfection or part of the canopy as it should be?
Hmm, probably, but I'm not sure what you would add: paint, ink, etc? You'd need to do some experimenting first to make sure the colour mixed properly and didn't separate.
Hmmm, you could try mineral turpentine, but I would test it on a piece of clear sprue that the canopy came from, to make sure it doesn't cloud the transparent plastic.
I've known about this for a while but the biggest problem has always been finding it in Australia. I've just looked that the one you show no longer seems available do you know what it's called or what I can use in its place?
Great video. You definitely get nice results with the Future, but my only concern is that, having wax as a base, does that leave the paint on the frame bits more vulnerable to scratches?
Johnson Future does not contain wax even though "wax" is in the name on some bottles. If you check the ingredients listed on the bottle it contains water, acrylic, ether & TBEP plasticizer.
Great video and new sub from me. Finding an Aussie who is into this aint easy. I'm only starting to get back into this after a life changing event and looking forward to going through your vids. Thanks!
Dave's Model Workshop awesome thankyou the only reason why I ask is that I'm currently working on a 1/48 airfix desert storm tornado and has a rather large canopy. Thanks again really enjoy the videos
Dave's Model Workshop awesome thankyou. Also can I use future instead of micro sol? And is tamiya flatbase the same thing as the testors dullcote? Sorry for these probably stupid questions but some of these techniques are very new to me still.
Hi Jody, MicroSol is for settling decals, to make them conform better to the shape underneath them. Slightly different uses. Tamiya flatbase is much the same as Testors Dullcote, they do pretty much the same thing. And never apologise for asking questions, it's all good! Cheers, D
Dave's Model Workshop thankyou I think i will try it out on a tester first as I've been told that the tamiya flatbase leaves the decals cloudy if you use it by itself as in i will be hand painting it as don't have a airbrush. Thankyou again.
Dave's Model Workshop Dave, you can use it for decals as well. It prevents silvering under the decals. This is best way to prevent it on Matt finishes. Apply over area that needs decal. Apply decal while still wet. Useing cotton bud roll out the bubles and excess. If you need too, apply the decal setting solution, let dry. Add Matt finish and your good to go. That is the same stuff I told u about on painting the vynal tracks figures or any part u want the paint to stick. Just use it as a primer.
Regards to fine scratches on canopies, toothpaste or a polishing compound should get them out (Tamiya make, I think, several grades of this stuff), so before dipping in your Pledge try polishing them out first. Don't know if it will improve the blemish from the sprue point, worth a shot though.
Thanks PJB - good tip re: toothpaste. I used some polishing a headlight lens a while back, and it would definitely also work on canopies. Nice one. Cheers, Dave
You can always flame polish it with a small torch just be careful not to linger in one spot for too long. This would take out that small dimple where it was detached.
Mate, I wondered about the dislikes the first few times I got them on videos. Then I realised just as you say, there will always be some people who you can't please. As long as it stays in a small minority I figure I must be doing something right, if the dislikes got to be say 20-30% as high as the likes I would re-assess what I was doing! Thanks, please let me know how your grandson goes with his build :) Dave
Dave's Model Workshop have watched again and can't see what's to dislike, l passed the link via my son who loved your Ozzie laid back style of delivery, it might be some time before l hear back from grandson as he is a Uny
What if you carve out the "Manky Blemish" with your fresh #11 blade, super glue the dimple, sand and polish area, then dip it a couple of times? When your ready don't glue canopy to fuselage but scatch off key attachment points then use medium strength super glue very lightly. What do you think?
Do you paint the edges after you dip the canopy in the floor polish? I've got some complicated masking to do with a coat of airbrushing for the exposed rails and canopy dividers. Just want to know if that should be done before or after you dip in the polish? Great video. I've subscribed!
hi Richard, yes, any canopy framework needs to be painted after the canopy is dipped, otherwise you will have glossy metal frameworks if you do it the other way around. Cheers, Dave
Hi Alfredo, no, once I have painted it and removed the mask, I don't apply anything else to it. If the masking tape leaves any residue, I clean that off and apply a tiny amount of floor polish, but that usually isn't required.
I've never had any issues with yellowing - seven years later it still looks clear. I think you're probably right that the layer is so thin it doesn't happen. I also don't have it exposed to direct sunlight, maybe that might cause issues for other people?
I would try two things. First, I would try filling the imperfection with super glue. If the blemish actually goes all the way through then I would try filing it away with a small round file. Then I would fill it with super glue by building it up with several layers. Obviously you would have to sand inside and outside but the future would take care of the scratches. Or you could just continue to polish with ultra-fine papers such as micro-mesh.
A year or so ago, I looked for some Future, and couldn't find it in our local stores. I belive it is now sold as Pledge, and the Future labels were dropped. You can read the fine print on the pledge labels and they say it contains Future. If anyone knows the story on this I'd love to know. Regards, Solomon
As I mention in the video, it seems to be sold under various names in various countries: Future, Pledge, Johnson's Klear. But yeah, I also heard they dropped the name "Future" in the US recently due to company changes/parent company takeovers or something like that. Pretty much any clear, hard-wearing floor polish will work, just test it beforehand, you don't want to ruin your pride and joy :) Dave
It's a floor polish. It's not a cleaner, it's a wax-based polish. A cleaning product like Mr Muscle will be too abrasive, don't use that, it will probably ruin your clear parts.
I know this posting is 3 years old, but I was wondering if it made any difference if the plastic part was colored (example" Martian War Machine green wingtips and front)?
It should still work with tinted plastic - I.e. the plastic has had a colouring agent added to it by the manufacturer before going into the kit mould. If you have tinted clear plastic yourself that might not work so well.
Hi Fox, I actually use CA glue and it seems to work fine, the Future stops it from fogging and it holds good and tight. I have heard the PVA glue idea, but I find that bond a bit unreliable. Dave
I'm in Australia also. You've had your Pledge OneGo for about five years! What's it called today? I've seen many a video talking about Pledge this-and-that, but I've never found anything in the last few years. What is the equivalent in 2017? Thanks!
Hi Morris, I'm not sure what it's called now. But basically any CLEAR floor polish would work. Bunnings has one called Long Life 2L General Purpose Floor Cleaner for under $10 which I think would probably work just the same. As long as it is clear, and watery (not a wax) you would be good to use it. Hope that helps, Dave
Dave's Model Workshop I simply touch up the frame with matte varnish. Most of the time it's not even necessary, as it's not noticeable that the frame has a it of a shine to it. Have a look at Phil Flory's models at www.florymodels.co.uk He uses the same method with super results.
Ah, cool. Good suggestion Ray. I've never had problems with masking tape stuffing up my clear-coated cockpits, other than on my Stuka and the crappy masking tape I used then would have ruined anything it touched! CHeers, Dave
I had to look up Pritt Stick as we don't have it here in Australia. It's a glue stick, yeah? Seems designed to use for paper and craft projects. I don't think it would work - it might temporarily stick it in place, but I very much doubt it would hold a plastic canopy in place long-term.
I recently bought a clear coat from Revell in the spray can to try it out, and after putting it on my me-262 and letting it dry overnight, I came out to find dust had settled on it whilst it was wet, and thus sealing it into the paint job. How do I fix this issue? It’s my best model I’ve made so far and my favourite plane I really don’t want it ruined..
I think it would be harder to control any excess - in the video I shake off excess fluid, so it doesn't run and collect in thick areas at the bottom. That would be trickier with gloss varnish. But it could work - give it a try and let me know!
Hi could you have any tips or do a video on how to create jet aircraft exhaust heat staining possibly with a brush as I can't afford to purchase a airbrush setup
I don't know were you live but in the US I bought an airbrush kit for 10$ at Harbor Freight tool store. It is a tool used for making cakes. It works great. You still need an air compressor to power it. Harbor Freight is a great place to get one. Get one that has a tank to store the air. Air brushing makes such a big difference. Easy to use too.
jody reynolds Tamiya sells different weathering kits that would work nicely for you. They come in little boxes like women’s makeup and come with a tiny foam applicator brush, the same ones you can buy in the beauty section of your local store.
So, I'm working on a helicopter. It has what's call an IFF. It has a red mirror type look on it. How do I reproduce the effect. The model is the US ARMY OH 58D. Thank you
I seem to noticed mainly at contests where an aircraft will be weathered but canopy looks factory fresh but if you look at period photos canopies in the field get scuffed/dusty so idk?🤔 Jman👀
I've seen people mention this before, and yes, fair point. Three things in response: 1. If I was a fighter pilot I would definitely ensure my cockpit glass/perspex was as clean as possible to see any threats/targets, who cares how dirty the rest of the plane is. 2. You can always weather the glass as well once it is on your model if you wish. 3. If there are imperfections in the moulded plastic of your kit's canopy, it's better to improve these than leave them. That's just my 2 cents worth, it's up to the individual model builder's own judgement :) Thanks Kabul, Dave
I know this an old posting but I figure I would comment anyway. I currently work for Lockheed building canopies for f-16s. We occasionally get some in for repair work. Some of the transparencies we get look like a cat was let lose in them. Scratched up, some scuffs here and there. Even some cloudiness from being sandblasted for several years. They are routinely polished and cleaned in the field but they do get weathered. The only time you would really see a canopy that is perfectly shiny and spotless is when its brand new. Even then there are some minor defects. Just my two cents.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
If I may suggest this, when you are letting your Parts to dry over night or 24-hours, cover them with a Bowl or a Drinking Glass. This will help protect the Parts from unwanted things in the air such Pet Hairs, Lint, and Dust from landing on the Parts while they are still WET... That's what I do with mine Clear Parts.
Great suggestion! Thanks. Definitely a good idea - consider this a Second P.S. to the video! ;) Dave
I use a small plastic container with a sheet of paper towel on the bottom and a lid to seal mine up. I always wait several days before taking them out.
MH53JTom in fact I used to do it, but now I have a new method is more efficient. You can put the transparent parts in front of a air outlet it could avoid the dust or other dirts, in the same time it would be more helpful with drying. That is my experience.
Dave's Model Workshop - I was only able to find a lemon scented Pledge at my local Coles, just wondering if it makes any difference?
PJ B that can be used for shine and protect. You can use it for protection of models surface. As a replacement of gloss. But it not work for transparent parts' crystalline.
I use humbrol clear vanish dip canopy in and out looks like glass !!! Good videos you do dave 👍
Thanks John!
After dipping and blotting on the tissue or paper towel I then set it on wax paper with a cover on it to prevent dust. The wax paper prevents the possibility of it sticking or pulling particles from the tissue. I usually find a styrofoam or clear plastic cup to cover it while it dries. Hope that makes sense. Love the videos!
I actually had to stop the video to look up "Bob's your uncle". Its similar to us over here saying "There ya go", "put it in the books" or "Thats it in a nutshell". I now know some things i never knew before, like using Pledge floor polish for my canopy finish (great tip), and that Bob is my uncle and thats the ticket!
Heh heh, I'm glad I could be so educational for you! :) Dave
Great video & great tip, mate - thanks! A couple of tips of my own - I use a small, fine-toothed razor saw to remove clear parts from the sprue, doesn't make stress-marks in the styrene, and clean-up is a doddle. And toothpaste is good for polishing out scratches (don't use the stuff with bicarb in, it can be a bit too aggressive). Thanks again, keep 'em coming!
Hi Dave,
Love the channel.
Pledge don't appear to do that product any more.
Are you able to suggest an alternative product please?
Thank you
Quick advice for anyone looking for the floor polish: At least in the US, it's called Pledge Revive It floor gloss and now comes in a clear bottle.
If you look at the ingredients on the bottle, you'll see Future is basically clear acrylic paint. Great stuff.
I know a lot of modellers slag off Future, but I find it does the job and it's cheap. That's a win/win for me. Dave
Thanks. Here in the USA I'm using Pledge floor/Future wax. I think you might have an old bottle of the stuff. It should not be yellow. I'm looking at a glass jar of it right now and it's crystal clear.
Very nice.. Good to know that the yellow isn't an issue. My bottle of Future is 12 years old. Thanx for sharing.
Classic! Good to know someone else is holding on to theirs longer than me! :) Dave
Hi Dave congratulations on your magazine contribution i will endeavor to head out and buy it today i also live in Australia Perth , also thanks for taking the time to make your videos i don't think there is one that i have not seen. i have just got back into making models and thanks to you my first model looks better than any other i have ever made in the past back in the 70s cheers Dave
Hi Michael, thank you so, so much for that comment. It makes me very happy to hear what you said, it really means a lot to me. Is there anywhere online I can see your builds? Cheers mate, Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop Hi Dave. Loved the "Ah....BOLLOCKS!!" at 4.44!! That's modelling!! Thanks for your tips!! They've helped me build better models too! 👍
Glad I found this. I've just actually ordered some from the US and will be testing it out. Also through an airbrush hopefully.
I often airbrush Pledge/Future before decal application and then later to seal decals - it works a treat.
Dave's Model Workshop that's what I've heard and is good to hear another confirmation. I'd use it as cheaper top coat before weathering etc. Can't wait. Thanks for the info.
Wiping plastic with Micro Fiber towels will leave far less marks. A tissue will leave scratches
nice vid. i didn expect to dip it multiple times could improve the nibbed areas so much
Thanks :)
First video of yours I've seen, it's both a helpful video but your commentary/personality style are great. Thanks for the vid man, I'll be checking out more of your stuff.
Hi George, thanks very much for the feedback mate :) I hope you find lots of inspiration! Cheers, Dave
Very cool dave and i am glad you got rid of the red outline. I can't tell what videos I have watched.
Outlawflyer78 ah, bugger, this is an old video from before I started the red outline. I hadn’t considered the video bar along the bottom... hmmm, might have to rethink my design. Thanks for the heads-up.
Gday Dave, i have the same stuff at home and its the best even for sealing as you know, When I seal the models and then use Tamiya panel wash, I clean it with zippo lighter fluid and its the best and the stuff doesn't yellow at all. great video made keep it up. .
Pledge what an eye opener, thanks for this I will give it a shot
Very well done. Best vid on this subject yet. Good call warning about contamination when drying. Cheers mate.
Thanks Lance, that's very humbling to read your comment. Cheers.
great results! I have a phantom p 51 mustang and plan to treat all the clear parts this way. thanks. Tom brown
Hi Tom, thanks for the feedback - please let me know how you get on with your Mustang. Cheers, Dave
"Ohh bollocks" best outtake ever, your videos are fantastic. Thanks for all the tips :)
Heh heh, that's pretty tame compared to my reactions when the camera isn't recording... ;)
I just finished my SR-71 Blackbird before YT recommended this video! :|
Well, we'll get them the next time. Thanks for the tip!
There's always another to make :)
With regard to the yellow issue, I believe it doesn't matter because the layer adhering to the canopy is so thin. The Pledge doesn't 'yellow' the plastic over time. Plastic food wrap exhibits the same characteristics. It can look slightly colored when layered thick on the roll but appears clear when you look through a single ply.
Thanks Paul, I totally agree, it's just not an issue that I've ever encountered. Thanks mate, Dave
This is really useful - thank you! Knowing that this will prevent the dreaded super-glue fogging is brilliant news.
For taking out marks on screens (I'm mostly working on restoring diecast cars) I've been using 800 grit or finer, then T Cut automotive paint restorer. This Pledge looks much better.
Something I have yet to discover is what glue or product will stick broken screens back together without leaving a visible join.
Mikaela Bowen hmmm, not leaving visible cracks or repairs is a tricky one. I don’t know of any product that can do that. Anyone else?
is it just me,or does a bloke with a british accent always sound confident and truthful?i mean high english of course! excellent video,and i would put a clean glass or plastic bowl over top to hinder lint and the like.
im terribly sorry,mate just wrote down the wrong accent,i'm an idiot
Nothing to apologise about pzkpfwiv freak! But yes, I'm Australian, not British ;) Good call about the cover to stop dust and lint, by the way, I wish I had included that in my video. Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave , spotted this wonderful video at somewhat of an appropriate time, have only recently discovered the issues with Tamiya extra thin cement and model canopies, your use of pledge prior to building sounds genius - however , both these products are now out of production and a suitable replacement I believe is Holloway House Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish .
However this product has a milky consistency which does appear to dry clear , and supposedly does the same job!
My ? Could you prepare the canopies with this prior to hand painting “ Frame lines” on the canopies or will this gloss protection affect the paint job ?
Tricky one , but have seen a u- tube video using this product apparently doing the job !
What do you think Dave .
Best wishes .
Ed
Hi Ed, I'm not aware of the product you mentioned but it sounds like it would be very similar to Future. I'd test it on a bit of clear sprue first. As for painting on top of the clear coat, you should be fine to do so. Best of luck! Dave
Will do Dave , many thanks for your very prompt reply.
Best wishes.
Ed.
Love the finish it leaves, and soooooooo good to find another Aussie channel for modelling, makes a nice change hearing all the aussie'isms throughout 😁 am just getting back into modelling after a hiatus of many many years, and thoroughly looking forward to it.
Cheers from western Sydney and have a safe and happy New Year!!!!
Thanks Tippo! Happy new year to you, welcome to 2022!
Neat idea, never thought of it. Do you paint the frames on the clear pieces or just leave them as is??
I paint the frames after dipping in the polish.
I use tamiya sprue cutters they are amazing, i highly recommend them, I use them more than the exacto knife to be perfectly honest.
Really? Do you trim and clean up pieces once they are off the sprue with them as well?
Thank you for this tutorial. One question- do you need to sand away the edges that will be ca glued, or do you apply the ca right over the Future?
I don't sand away the Future - if you do so, you may still get fogging of the canopy (the Future protects it from reacting with the CA glue). The bond isn't quite as strong as a result, I will admit, but it saves you from the dreaded fogging. Dave
Thanks for the how to amigo! The pledge stuff is no longer made and goes for $100 bucks now here in the US.
Wow, seriously?!? $100! That's insane!
@@davidhourigan9769 Actually, it went up to $123, I just bought it because it was the last 1 on Amazon. I should have got it when it was 100 bucks.
I have seen other users use the Novus polishing system on their clear pieces and it seems to work just as well.
I wasn't aware of it until I read your comment and googled it. Looks good, but expensive?
For a 2 oz bottle of Novus 1 and a 2 oz bottle of Novus 2, I bought them from Amazon.com for 9 dollars. I didn't buy Novus 3 because I am not sure if the part I am polishing will need it yet. Just trying to see if no 2 will do the trick :)
Ah, that's a lot cheaper than what I saw here in my Australian google results. Maybe it is expensive here ($50 for three bottles) as it has to be imported?
especially if your seller is overseas try looking it up on Amazon in Australian currency and see if you get anything cheaper than 50 dollars. But keep in mind I only bought two bottles. I found this set just now for 11.25 dollars. www.amazon.com/Novus-Bed-Polish-Kit-1-2-3/dp/B003Z9J0DG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536798643&sr=8-1&keywords=novus+3+2+oz
Thinking a bit of silver aluminum framing (foil or Molotow marker) would cover that blemish.
Great Video and also your voice there was pretty calming.
Heh heh, thanks Dimitry!
Hi. Thanks for a good tip, but how does this affect masking and painting of the canopy?
You just do those things after it has been dipped and dried.
Bob's your uncle. You taught me a great lesson here thank you.
My pleasure, thanks for watching. I'm glad you found it valuable.
Great video, thanks !
Am new to this game ( well after about a 40yr lay off 😁) Do you paint the canopy frames before or after treating ? If after, are there any additional things to consider?
Thanks in advance 😊
Hi Nigel, I paint the canopy frames after dipping in the gloss, so that the framework isn't glossier than the surrounding fuselage paint (which it would be if you painted the frame first, then dipped). Re: additional things - i can't think of any, just be careful with masking and you should be good :) Cheers, Dave
Thanks very much, will give this a go. So much more to learn than the old days when I first did any building 👍🏻😊
great tutorial, there seems to be a mark on the front canopy about a third the way up from the front, is that another imperfection or part of the canopy as it should be?
Hi Jeff, I think that was part of the moulding of the canopy frame.
Great stuff. will use this. Really look forward to the results
Could you add a coloring agent to the Pledge for tinting on modern fighter canopies ?
Hmm, probably, but I'm not sure what you would add: paint, ink, etc? You'd need to do some experimenting first to make sure the colour mixed properly and didn't separate.
The floor polish does not cause any noticeable yellowing over time because the coating is only a few microns thick.
Thank you for all you’re help. :) this new hobby is really working out great for me! You’ve taught me SO SO MUCH!
Humbrol Clear does the same... been doing that for years. But then again, everyone has his/her own methods.
Great video thank you.
Quick question if I may, do you have a super simple way to get Tamiya acrylic paint off canopy?
Hmmm, you could try mineral turpentine, but I would test it on a piece of clear sprue that the canopy came from, to make sure it doesn't cloud the transparent plastic.
@@DavesModelWorkshop Thank you I will give it a try
I've known about this for a while but the biggest problem has always been finding it in Australia. I've just looked that the one you show no longer seems available do you know what it's called or what I can use in its place?
Great video. You definitely get nice results with the Future, but my only concern is that, having wax as a base, does that leave the paint on the frame bits more vulnerable to scratches?
Hi J. Lee, I guess so, but it's never really been an issue for me. In theory you could be right, but I've never noticed paint adhesion issues. Dave
Johnson Future does not contain wax even though "wax" is in the name on some bottles. If you check the ingredients listed on the bottle it contains water, acrylic, ether & TBEP plasticizer.
Great video and new sub from me.
Finding an Aussie who is into this aint easy.
I'm only starting to get back into this after a life changing event and looking forward to going through your vids.
Thanks!
Polishing canopies with an eyeglasses microfiber towel is a very safe and effective way bring up a great shine.
@@gjrljr Thanks heaps mate for the tip!
Thanks mate, ...I've been building models all my life but I didn't know this,.....Thanks PalGood luck , doin a great job .
Hi Ron, thanks for the feedback. Cheers! Dave
hi. very cool vid sir!! can this be used with painted parts? i painted the part with tamiya acrylics to be exact. thanks
Is "Pledge No One" kind of a liquid detergent for cleaning and shining the ground tiles?
Do you paint before dipping in the polish or afterwards as I don't want the masking tape to leave any residue
Dave's Model Workshop awesome thankyou the only reason why I ask is that I'm currently working on a 1/48 airfix desert storm tornado and has a rather large canopy. Thanks again really enjoy the videos
Dave's Model Workshop awesome thankyou. Also can I use future instead of micro sol?
And is tamiya flatbase the same thing as the testors dullcote?
Sorry for these probably stupid questions but some of these techniques are very new to me still.
Hi Jody, MicroSol is for settling decals, to make them conform better to the shape underneath them. Slightly different uses. Tamiya flatbase is much the same as Testors Dullcote, they do pretty much the same thing. And never apologise for asking questions, it's all good! Cheers, D
Dave's Model Workshop thankyou I think i will try it out on a tester first as I've been told that the tamiya flatbase leaves the decals cloudy if you use it by itself as in i will be hand painting it as don't have a airbrush. Thankyou again.
Dave's Model Workshop Dave, you can use it for decals as well. It prevents silvering under the decals. This is best way to prevent it on Matt finishes. Apply over area that needs decal. Apply decal while still wet. Useing cotton bud roll out the bubles and excess. If you need too, apply the decal setting solution, let dry. Add Matt finish and your good to go. That is the same stuff I told u about on painting the vynal tracks figures or any part u want the paint to stick. Just use it as a primer.
Regards to fine scratches on canopies, toothpaste or a polishing compound should get them out (Tamiya make, I think, several grades of this stuff), so before dipping in your Pledge try polishing them out first.
Don't know if it will improve the blemish from the sprue point, worth a shot though.
Thanks PJB - good tip re: toothpaste. I used some polishing a headlight lens a while back, and it would definitely also work on canopies. Nice one. Cheers, Dave
You can always flame polish it with a small torch just be careful not to linger in one spot for too long. This would take out that small dimple where it was detached.
I've never done flame polishing - I'd be worried I would melt it all! I imagine it takes a lot of practice?
@@DavesModelWorkshopdon’t do that, it will make the plastic very brittle
Especially the thinner the plastic
This comment section has to be most polite in the whole internet.
It's quite pleasant to see that not everyone is a troll, isn't it? ;)
will paint masking pull the layer up when it is removed?
I've never had it do that, no. You're safe.
Hey, does any other floor polish work with this? or just Pledge?
Great tip, have passed link to my grand son, don't understand why the dislikes, guess you can't please folks all the time :-)
Mate, I wondered about the dislikes the first few times I got them on videos. Then I realised just as you say, there will always be some people who you can't please. As long as it stays in a small minority I figure I must be doing something right, if the dislikes got to be say 20-30% as high as the likes I would re-assess what I was doing! Thanks, please let me know how your grandson goes with his build :) Dave
Dave's Model Workshop have watched again and can't see what's to dislike, l passed the link via my son who loved your Ozzie laid back style of delivery, it might be some time before l hear back from grandson as he is a Uny
What if you carve out the "Manky Blemish" with your fresh #11 blade, super glue the dimple, sand and polish area, then dip it a couple of times? When your ready don't glue canopy to fuselage but scatch off key attachment points then use medium strength super glue very lightly. What do you think?
I reckon that would have worked actually. Good call.
Won’t the layers of acrylic stop plastic cement from bonding? How do you glue the canopies in?
I use white PVA glue to attach it to the plastic fuselage and it holds fine.
Do you paint the edges after you dip the canopy in the floor polish? I've got some complicated masking to do with a coat of airbrushing for the exposed rails and canopy dividers. Just want to know if that should be done before or after you dip in the polish? Great video. I've subscribed!
hi Richard, yes, any canopy framework needs to be painted after the canopy is dipped, otherwise you will have glossy metal frameworks if you do it the other way around. Cheers, Dave
Wet myself, thanks Dave!! Oh Bollocks!!! I know that feeling
Heh heh!
Tanks for the tip !!! Do you use any barnish after mask and paint the clear parts?
Hi Alfredo, no, once I have painted it and removed the mask, I don't apply anything else to it. If the masking tape leaves any residue, I clean that off and apply a tiny amount of floor polish, but that usually isn't required.
Thanks you Dave, I apply this method in my nexts models. Hugs from Brazil!
Do all floor polishes turn yellow in the bottle over time?
So is the yellowing not noticeable because the layer of “Pledge” is so thin?
Or
Does it lose it’s yellow colour when converted from liquid to solid?
I've never had any issues with yellowing - seven years later it still looks clear. I think you're probably right that the layer is so thin it doesn't happen. I also don't have it exposed to direct sunlight, maybe that might cause issues for other people?
Great video Dave, when would you paint the canopy frame?
Hi Eric, I paint the frame after I have dipped the canopy. The paint adheres just fine to the floor polish.
What type of glue you recommend for clear parts?
Generally I use white PVA glue - it's not as strong, but it never clouds the clear parts.
Great idea. I'll definitely try it
Very useful, thank you!
I would try two things.
First, I would try filling the imperfection with super glue. If the blemish actually goes all the way through then I would try filing it away with a small round file. Then I would fill it with super glue by building it up with several layers. Obviously you would have to sand inside and outside but the future would take care of the scratches. Or you could just continue to polish with ultra-fine papers such as micro-mesh.
so if i spray my model i have to waite 24 hrs properly dry time? to start working again?
Hi Dave It looks like the Pledge "One go" you showed is no longer being sold. Do you have the name of a new equivalent product?
HI Marcello, I don't sorry. But any clear floor polish should do the trick. Obviously, test it first on a spare piece of sprue though!
Great video. Thank you so much.
Thank you!
Years ago I remember reading not to clean CD’s with tissues as they’ll leave tiny scratches.
A year or so ago, I looked for some Future, and couldn't find it in our local stores. I belive it is now sold as Pledge, and the Future labels were dropped. You can read the fine print on the pledge labels and they say it contains Future. If anyone knows the story on this I'd love to know. Regards, Solomon
As I mention in the video, it seems to be sold under various names in various countries: Future, Pledge, Johnson's Klear. But yeah, I also heard they dropped the name "Future" in the US recently due to company changes/parent company takeovers or something like that. Pretty much any clear, hard-wearing floor polish will work, just test it beforehand, you don't want to ruin your pride and joy :) Dave
It's now sold as Pledge Floor Care and only available from the US. There is a stockist in Australia, but be prepared to pay around $35 for a bottle.
Great job 👍
tried works like a charm!!!! thank you
Excellent - glad to hear it! :)
Just a question
In South Africa we don't have Pledge
We have Mr Muscle
It's a floor polish. It's not a cleaner, it's a wax-based polish. A cleaning product like Mr Muscle will be too abrasive, don't use that, it will probably ruin your clear parts.
Love it, great work
Thank you! Cheers!
I know this posting is 3 years old, but I was wondering if it made any difference if the plastic part was colored (example" Martian War Machine green wingtips and front)?
It should still work with tinted plastic - I.e. the plastic has had a colouring agent added to it by the manufacturer before going into the kit mould. If you have tinted clear plastic yourself that might not work so well.
it will stop the glue from reacting.. so it wont stick anymore. I guess you recommend PVA glue for clear parts like most modellers do, right?
Hi Fox, I actually use CA glue and it seems to work fine, the Future stops it from fogging and it holds good and tight. I have heard the PVA glue idea, but I find that bond a bit unreliable. Dave
Thank you for the video really helped
Any suggestions for removing paint from clear plastic?
What kind of paint Edgar? Acrylic or enamel?
Thanks Dave
I'm in Australia also. You've had your Pledge OneGo for about five years! What's it called today? I've seen many a video talking about Pledge this-and-that, but I've never found anything in the last few years. What is the equivalent in 2017? Thanks!
Hi Morris, I'm not sure what it's called now. But basically any CLEAR floor polish would work. Bunnings has one called Long Life 2L General Purpose Floor Cleaner for under $10 which I think would probably work just the same. As long as it is clear, and watery (not a wax) you would be good to use it. Hope that helps, Dave
I've been using the Bunnings Long Life floor polish for canopies... Works just the same.
One suggestion: it's better to dip your clear parts AFTER masking and painting. Even the gentlest of masking tapes might damage the shine.
But if you wanted a matte frame, for example, how would you achieve that if you have dipped the whole painted canopy into the polish? Cheers, Dave
Dave's Model Workshop I simply touch up the frame with matte varnish. Most of the time it's not even necessary, as it's not noticeable that the frame has a it of a shine to it. Have a look at Phil Flory's models at www.florymodels.co.uk He uses the same method with super results.
Ah, cool. Good suggestion Ray. I've never had problems with masking tape stuffing up my clear-coated cockpits, other than on my Stuka and the crappy masking tape I used then would have ruined anything it touched! CHeers, Dave
Can prit stick be used do add it to the model as I don't have any of the suggested glue for it on me
I had to look up Pritt Stick as we don't have it here in Australia. It's a glue stick, yeah? Seems designed to use for paper and craft projects. I don't think it would work - it might temporarily stick it in place, but I very much doubt it would hold a plastic canopy in place long-term.
I recently bought a clear coat from Revell in the spray can to try it out, and after putting it on my me-262 and letting it dry overnight, I came out to find dust had settled on it whilst it was wet, and thus sealing it into the paint job. How do I fix this issue? It’s my best model I’ve made so far and my favourite plane I really don’t want it ruined..
Hmmmm, I really don't know. Removing the top clear coat might damage the paintwork underneath... Anyone able to assist? Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop ya I just kinda left it and just left it as is and made up that it’s an old aircraft that never saw use, works me lol.
Would airbrushing a coat of gloss varnish do the same job?
I think it would be harder to control any excess - in the video I shake off excess fluid, so it doesn't run and collect in thick areas at the bottom. That would be trickier with gloss varnish. But it could work - give it a try and let me know!
dear Dave's Model Workshop i have damaged an A-37 DRAGON FLY canopy....any ideas??? i am desperate...
It works very very well. It was one of the best tips i ever seen on yt ! 👍 👍 👍 thank you so much, top 👍 really
Hi Tom, thanks very much. It makes a big difference, doesn't it? Cheers, Dave
Hi could you have any tips or do a video on how to create jet aircraft exhaust heat staining possibly with a brush as I can't afford to purchase a airbrush setup
Hi Jody, I've not done one simply because I don't build jets generally. I build only prop planes. I know the effect you mean though. Dave
Dave's Model Workshop ok no worries thankyou.
I don't know were you live but in the US I bought an airbrush kit for 10$ at Harbor Freight tool store. It is a tool used for making cakes. It works great. You still need an air compressor to power it. Harbor Freight is a great place to get one. Get one that has a tank to store the air. Air brushing makes such a big difference. Easy to use too.
jody reynolds Tamiya sells different weathering kits that would work nicely for you. They come in little boxes like women’s makeup and come with a tiny foam applicator brush, the same ones you can buy in the beauty section of your local store.
Great advice- cheers.
Thanks Martin :)
Thansk for the advice.
So, I'm working on a helicopter. It has what's call an IFF. It has a red mirror type look on it. How do I reproduce the effect. The model is the US ARMY OH 58D. Thank you
Such good tutoring!! Thank you
I seem to noticed mainly at contests where an aircraft will
be weathered but canopy looks factory fresh but if you look at period photos canopies in the field get scuffed/dusty so idk?🤔
Jman👀
I've seen people mention this before, and yes, fair point. Three things in response: 1. If I was a fighter pilot I would definitely ensure my cockpit glass/perspex was as clean as possible to see any threats/targets, who cares how dirty the rest of the plane is. 2. You can always weather the glass as well once it is on your model if you wish. 3. If there are imperfections in the moulded plastic of your kit's canopy, it's better to improve these than leave them. That's just my 2 cents worth, it's up to the individual model builder's own judgement :) Thanks Kabul, Dave
Dave's Model Workshop
Yes today's airfields are not as primitive as airfields past! And don't you mean 2 pence worth?😆
Jman👀
I know this an old posting but I figure I would comment anyway. I currently work for Lockheed building canopies for f-16s. We occasionally get some in for repair work. Some of the transparencies we get look like a cat was let lose in them. Scratched up, some scuffs here and there. Even some cloudiness from being sandblasted for several years. They are routinely polished and cleaned in the field but they do get weathered. The only time you would really see a canopy that is perfectly shiny and spotless is when its brand new. Even then there are some minor defects. Just my two cents.
What is the current aussie equivalent to future floor polish?
I'm not 100% sure, apparently Bunnings does sell an equivalent but I can't remember the name. ANyone else know?
I’ve seen you can polish it with tooth paste and a q top
That would work too. I've never done it, but I know this method cleans real car headlights ;)
Thank You!
after dipping in the floor polish (the complete piece) then placing it on a paper towel, t will stick. You will have to sand off the paper!!