This is almost a life changing video and I don't mean to be hyperbolic. I have been using an airbrush and Tamiya paints for 26 years now. I have always had so much trouble with automobiles and gloss coats, so frustrating that i keep falling back to spray cans. I have watched HUNDREDS of videos and not a single explained what you just did in 19 minutes. I had my air pressure and thinner ratio ALLLL wrong. Last night i watched this video and immediately went down to the garage and airbrushed an auto body with your settings and its one of the best paint jobs that I have ever achieved. I can't thank you enough for this video. Its crazy to think how long I have been struggling and had things so wrong all these years. It really had nothing to do with my skill, i just had my airpressure WAY to high and my thinner ratio WAY too low. Thank you so very very much.
Only complaint I have with Tamiya is they haven't updated their color line in some time and mainly cater to the traditional scale modelers, and not other hobby painters like gunpla (which is odd considering it's a Japanese company). So, Mr. Color is my new go to, along with Vallejo.
When I got into airbrushing a few years ago a friend told me a few great trick for Tamiya paints. Never shake, stir the bottle to mix. This solves the paint getting trapped and drying on the bottle lip. Use a pipette to remove the paint. When the bottle is brand new, open it fill it almost to the top with lacquer thinner for acrylics, and it will be perfectly mixed or thinned.
Yes-this! I personally dislike the squeeze bottles-what if you need to return paint to the bottle? Pretty much impossible with a squeeze bottle. Disposable pipettes are the way to go. And if you’re opposed to the waste of disposables, use glass pipettes and rinse after each use.
I use their bottles for my own mixes of paint. And I've always used a pipette or eye dropper for mixing or transfer paint. I noticed he doesn't clean is bottles very well if at all. One I was taught way back in the late 60's is to keep your bottles and caps clean. The paint will last a heck of a long time if you do.
I concur. I'm just getting started after 30+ years away from the hobby, so I purchased an open box Badger 180-12 compressor and Anthem 155, adding the Badger regulator and moisture trap (after trying a "compatible with" eBay version of different threading). Needless to say, kits have improved over the decades so the ICM 1/48 B-26C-50 Invader is on the shelf with the earlier Monogram/Revell version plus Bombshell decals, Quickboost resin, SAC zinc landing gear parts and more. These to honor Dad's 3rd Bomb Wing service in Korea shortly before I was born (with the 9th BW KC-97s at Idaho's former B-24 training base). This channel has great tutorials!
Having looked at 5 videos today on the topic I can says yours is the best by a big margin. Thank you for the direct info, handy titles in the corner, and not focusing on selling us things.
Very comprehensive guide! In my initial days as modeler (1970!) the only paints available were Humbrol’s enamels. Then Tamiya appeared on the Italian market and they were a game changer back then. I use to thin Tamiya with its thinner and this technique I learned from other modelers: filling up the bottle almost to the rim with thinner and give it a good shake. Using this method I rarely had problem airbrushing Tamiya even though I have admit that I do not use them as much as I used to. It’s been at least 10 years I’ve been using true acrylics (Vallejo, Mig).
Your channel is a great example of how educational videos should be produced. Well edited, straight to the facts, and useful information without any bullshite. I’ve been using Vallejo Air paints (using your custom thinner/flow improver/retarder formula), and I’m happy. I’m trying to create gloss surfaces which I can polish to high gloss (like car models), and I haven’t found good infromation about the Tamiya polish compound’s compatibility with acrylics. I did read a lot that Vallejo is not really a good base for high gloss finish due to the paint peeling up when applying wet sanding. Cars and high gloss may not be your interest, but it would be really great if you could add a video about using gloss clear coats (maybe Tamiya vs Vallejo) and demonstrating how well they can be wet sanded and polished. Anyways, thank you again for this great video and I can’t wait for the next one!
Hey, thank you for the kind words and I am glad you liked my videos. I am not a car builder so never had to worry about high shine before. But this is a question that keeps coming up and I have been researching into it. One thing that another modeler discovered recently is that the Vallejo gloss in a can, provided the highest shine and looked as good as any lacquer/enamel. I posted his findings in the Facebook Group I created called "Scale Modeling using Acrylics". I highly recommend joining! The goal is to help other scale modelers using acrylics get the best results. But I will be doing a video on high shine builds soon, so keep an eye out!
Thanks, lots of great information. I too love Tamiya paints and use thew specifically. I have the whole collection. Something I have learned recently is to fill up the bottle with thinner as soon as I open it the first time. I use a hand held stirrer and keep the lid clean after each use. About two years ago I bought a package of about 50 plastic squeeze bottles and started using them. I now find that to be more of a pain and have gone back to using the glass bottles. They are much easier to thin and mix in.
My only issue with Tamiya paints is after all these years, they still refuse to formulate and label their paints in accordance with established federal standard (FS), RLM, RAL, VVS, and NATO colors. YES, you can mix paints to achieve said colors. However, when your competitors follow these standards out of convenience to their customer base, it makes you wonder why Tamiya hasn't gotten on board with it.
Yea their lineup is extensive but a bit limiting, like you said no standards is a bit lazy. Also the 23 ml are no findable in my country (only flat black for some reasons), and at 10 ml they are quite expensive. The best comparison to tamiya are mr hobby aqueous. Very similar in composition and way more colors (also many federal standards colors). Brushing with both is painfull but the best airbrush flow and coverage
I just want to add for brush painting - from my own experience, if you use tamiya acrylics with Distilled water, in approx a 1:2 part ratio, 1 drop of water per 2 drops of paint, the results of brush painting can be excellent. It may take a few coats but it does work
Great video, once again! Very informative! Tried to use Tamiya paints and had very good luck with they when practicing spraying them. I usually would add approximately 25% thinner to the paint, and it worked. My only problem with Tamiya paints is the fact that I had to spend so much time mixing to try to get the color I needed to get for a particular model. I realize that there are many sites on the internet which give mixing formulas but having tried many of these mix formulas, I could not get the color I was after. This is why I gave up on Tamiya paints and went to other brands (Vallejo, AK, etc.). This problem with having to mix colors almost constantly, is about the only issue I have with Tamiya.
I have Tamiya paints from the mid-80's that are still good. I always try to go with Tamiya first, although I am open to other paints like Mr Color, Mission Model Paints, and Vallejo. Regarding dry paint on the jar lid, I always clean with IPA before putting it away. Lastly, I wrap the jars in cling wrap and use a rubber band tightened around the top to help further seal (preserve) them. In fact, I do this with all brands of paint jars and bottles.
Thanks for doing this video. I’m new to airbrush use and I’m a long term Tamiya user. I’ve never had a issue with brush painting. For sure others complain about the smell, I don’t smell anything.
Thanks for your video! I had the following problem with Tamiya XF paints: after the paint dried out, there was a "layer of dust" on the surface. These were dry paint particles. Apparently I didn't thin the paint enough.
I like the bottles. As som other guy said, use a dropper to transfer paint to a pallet or a mixing pot. For precise measurement for mixing I use a scale.
Ive been using Tamiya paint since 1990 or so, airbrush and brush paint, use retardee, and thin the paint. For thinner i always used X20 their on brand, but the couple of years i discovered Mr Leveling Thinner, it also contains a retarder within the thinner cocktail.
You can get a leveler addative for vbrush painting though I thin that helps with reducing brush stroke markings? I thought most Tamiya paints were acrylic?
@@beano9343 I believe you are correct on the addictive. But I think for brush painting it’s just better to go with a “water-based” acrylic. And yes Tamiya paints are “acrylics” but not a “water-based” acrylics. Acrylic is a general term term , but acrylic can be made with solvents such as alcohol…like Tamiya.
@@myheartiscold397 no stupid questions. I bought the cups on Amazon. Here is the thing, don’t search for it in the modeling section. The price way more! I recommend you look in the paint section or medical section. I was able to purchase 20 for 9 dollars delivered.
Hi DS, did you any particular acrylic paint in mind? I have on my channel a video on how to airbrush Vallejo and Ammo by mig paints. The thinner mixture I use with both paints can be used with all water based acrylics. It will permanently change your acrylic airbrush game.
For painting modern jets windshields, Tamiya clear paints are quite good, but can I brush them too for this purpose instead of airbrushing? (Due to the small size of a windshield in 1/72, for example)?
Hi, you can but I would only do it if you’re pretty good brush painting. Otherwise you risk brush marks. I personally recommend you mask the area of the canopy you want to tint and gently airbrush it for the best look. Hope that helps.
It is superior. It is had a mild retarder, which prevents tip drying and levels the paint for a smooth finish. But if you can’t find Mr hobby thinner, you can also use regular lacquer thinner from your hardware store. Lacquer thinner works really well. Just make sure to use proper safety measures.
I have no problems with their bottles. I use drip bottles for the mixed/thinned paint. I don't know anyone who sprays Tamiya straight from the bottle. Never noticed any smell from the acrylic paint. Great flat black for engine soot /exhaust color. I like the caps are the paint color. I'm a model railroader so I only work with flat paint. If I need a shine I spray a gloss clear once to get a semi gloss or a satin. In model RRing semi gloss is shiney enough. I only shoot flat acrylic clears on all my freight rolling stock to seal decals & weathering, & on RTR cars to kill the shiney printing. Doesn't effect metallic paints or white paint (yellowing). Fun Fact: shiney paint doesn't last after one trip down the track between the sun & road debris. Besides only a semi gloss paint is used. I used to work on a railroad.
@@kastlerock01 hey, so lacquer definitely will clean up Tamiya paints. But lacquer thinner is very toxic and you need to be careful when using it. Plus the smell is incredibly powerful. If you live with people or pets, they might complain. Thus I prefer to use Simple Green. It’s a natural cleaner you can find at your local Walmart for about $5 a bottle. It eats through acrylics like a hot knife through butter.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the quick response. Glad to know something so simple will work to clean out my brush. Wasn’t sure as I haven’t worked with Tamiya much and with it being like an oil based paint had some apprehension. 🤙
@@Marks_Channel glad you liked the video! Regarding needle size, you can use any needle size you prefer. I prefer to use .2mm. But you can use .3, .4, .5, .6, etc,
Hi, it’s not. Tamiya is an alcohol based acrylic paint. So it sticks better than water based acrylics. But I always recommend primers. They give the paint something to hold on to, they make the model uniform, and most importantly they help reveal flaws.
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 can tamiya primer be applied through brushes? i see bottle glass of tamiya primer available on market and why aclohol based acrylic paint sticks better than water based acrylic paints?
@ Tamiya primer can be applied by brush. But if you watch the figure modeling community, they brush paint primer and prefer acrylic primer for brush. I think it’s because it’s more easily brush-able than lacy primers. As far as alcohol based vs water based sticking better. It’s just the properties of the paint. Water based under biting into the plastic.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks a lot and i have another question for 3d printed models,is it necessary to apply a layer of primer before painting them with tamiya paints? i think 3d printed models are different from traditional plastic models ,especially on the materials they producted
@@junhaogu-ee8wh so much like resin, 3d printed parts or kits, you want to wash prior to painting and you don't have to prime. But honestly, I recommend you prime. It will reveal any flaws. Your eyes won't catch the small flaws.
This may be a stupid question but I’m trying to understand certain terms correct me if I’m wrong but a 70/30 mix to me sounds like (using 10 drops of paint) 7 drops of thinner to 3 drops of paint, so am I to believe then 50/50 mix (again using 10 drops of paint) 5 drops of thinner and 5 drops of paint?
Hi Ken, I am not sure I fully understand your question. When I say 50/50, I mean half paint/half thinner. When I say 70/30, I mean 70% thinner and 30% paint. Does that make sense? Again, I am not sure what you are asking exactly.
@@kenm6533 I would use 20 ml of thinner. so 1 to 1 ratio. But that is if I am doing just general painting. If I want a more smooth finish, for example a car model, where a smooth finish is very important. I would do 70 parts thinner to 30 parts paint. Does that help?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 yes it does thank you so much , Also are you saying thinner the paint would give a smoother finish? I would guess you would do multiple coats as well
@@kenm6533 yes, you got it! For general painting you can do 50/50 thinner to paint. But if you want a smooth finish for example for car modeling or a polished airplane model, you want to do 70/30 thinner to paint. But you will need to do more coats.
Keep in mind, that no matter the gloss type (acrylic, enamel, lacquer) it needs to be sprayed at low PSI (12-15, no more than that) and it should go on wet. LP9 is a lacquer and not their acrylic-hybrid so use proper ventilation when you spray it. I recommend spraying it using Mr. Leveling Hobby Thinner thinned 50/50 (Paint to thinner) at 12-15 psi.
Bottle design: recyclable glass, holds much more paint than squeeze bottles.Others have throw away plastic. Yes, top of bottle is a problem with drying . Does smell.....Badger paint stirrer works the best, that's how the paint manufacturer does it.
Definitely like recyclable glass, and the more paint. But definitely disagree on the stirring sticks to mix the paint. The vortex will permanently change your color mixing game.
I used 2 different airbrushes in the video: the Harder Steenbeck Evolution and Infinity. But don’t fixated on the airbrush, the techniques are the most important part. If you understand them, you can use any airbrush.
I always add at least one stainless steel ball (available from AK) to each Tamiya jar and find I don't neet do stir the paint to mix the pigments with the cellulose. If I need a very precise mix, I use cheap plastic pipettes to measure out drops.
Ray, recommend not adding in the stirring ball into Tamiya paint bottles. Unfortunately one time I had the stirring ball chip the bottle and there were glass flakes in my paint.
I no longer shake Tamiya acrylic bottles. I find that this causes the paint to be globbed up on the sides of the jar and the lid. Later, dried chunks of paint fall into the paint and ruin it. I use a Badger paint stirrer. When I brush Tamiya paints, I do not even wipe the brush on the jar. I squeeze a few drops onto a mixing bowl and paint from there. I do put SS balls into Vallejo bottles.
If they go to a plastic bottle they'll just evaporate like the rest do and if you wipe the top you dont get the dry paint plus you can't easily knock over a tamiya pot 😊
Thanks for the video. Some observations from someone who is not very good: Most RUclipsrs say not to spray too close. Also, to spray in light coats. Also, don't go over a previously painted area that is still wet. You don't seem to adhere to any of these principles. My biggest beef is that Tamiya gloss acrylic takes forever to cure; i.e. at least 2 weeks. Within that period you cannot handle or apply masking or you seriously risk leaving marks and finger prints that cannot be rubbed off and must be sanded and repainted. I have read that Tamiya lacquer thinner used with the acrylic gloss would harden up more quickly. And yes I thin at 50/50.
Hi John, so to your first few points. Yes, I do not adhere to some of the "common" airbrush principles. I think some of it based on outdated information. I used to work as a professional airbrush artist and in my training, we went over why/how to do certain things. Of course there is always some nuance to everything. But for modeling purposes, I recommend trying the techniques I shared. I think you will have great results from them. I know this doesn't fully answer the things you listed....I would probably need to do an hour long video to explain everything. Regarding your issue with Tamiya gloss taking forever to cure. If you change to thinning Tamiya paint with lacquer thinner (just the normal stuff from the hardware store) or even just Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner, the paint dries and is ready to go in about 30 mins.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for your response. As regards trying Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner with Tamiya acrylic gloss, I have tried that and it made no difference at all to being able to handle the model within a day or so. I have yet to try Tamiya lacquer thinner with the acrylic gloss. I am not the only one to express this difficulty and frustration. The paint remains soft for a long time and cannot be handled in the meantime.
Nice job, while I like the Mr.Leveling Thinner, I lean to the yellow cap'd Tamiya Lacquer thinner for airbrushing their acrylic paints. The lacquer thinner seems to have a bit more bite on the primer and helps make a tougher finish IMHO.
I have a recommendation: I do jar cleaning maintenance on jars, lids and threads every time I open a jar. In the 70’s my Dad would have been mad as hell if I put the jars away like that!!!
Catlady....first, hello to a fellow cat lover! I have two chubby brats of my own and foster kittens. Is your profile picture that of your cat? But in regards to what you said. I also try to keep my jars clean! And if there is build up I try to clean it out before I put the bottles away. These are bottles I bought from a fellow modeler who wasn't as through on his cleaning.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Meow that makes sense! You don’t seem like the type to keep messy jars, or “Pots” as our Brit friends across the pond say. 🇬🇧 ☕️ 🫖 🌂 Yes, that was Heterochromia from many years ago. He was a real character and knew he was something special!
Use a disposable pipette to remove paint from the bottle-paint never gets on the jar threads, therefore no problem with dried flakes falling into the jar. Also, never shake the bottle to mix the paint-always stir. This also helps with not fouling the lid and jar threads
Don, do you paint over a primer? In particular yellow is incredibly hard to get good coverage with. So the best way is to prime with Pink (yes I said Pink). Mr. Surfacer pink primer works really well for this purpose. You can also uses pink primer with Red. For white, primer with light grey and that will help alot.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196- I am using Mr. Surfacer grey on almost all. I have some Tamiya rattle can pink, I'll experiment with yellow over pink tonight and let you know tomorrow.
I haven't tried Vallejo Thinner with Tamiya paints. I however don't think it will work because Vallejo is water-based acrylics and Tamiya is an alcohol-based acrylic. I would recommend sticking to Mr. Hobby Leveling thinner for best results or Tamiya X-20A. Hope this helps!
There's only one thing I don't like about Tamiya Acrylics. That they are no longer available in 24ml bottles outside Japan or America. Being restricted to availability of only their Mini 10ml bottles in ROW distribution sucks.
Mmmm, it is possible to 'hairy stick' brush paint Tamiya's acrylics, but you gotta reach an understanding with the paint, on its terms. And, I didn't try to brush paint anything bigger than 1/72 wings for little WW1 airplanes & 1/35 tank crew people.
@@degs7693 I’m literally one of the most concise and straight to the point modelers. But I had to explain several concepts that you cannot effectively do in 30 seconds. In a 20 minutes I covered over 6 concepts…which ones to a little over 2 plus minutes per concept. I’m not sure what you’re complaining about.
This is almost a life changing video and I don't mean to be hyperbolic. I have been using an airbrush and Tamiya paints for 26 years now. I have always had so much trouble with automobiles and gloss coats, so frustrating that i keep falling back to spray cans. I have watched HUNDREDS of videos and not a single explained what you just did in 19 minutes. I had my air pressure and thinner ratio ALLLL wrong. Last night i watched this video and immediately went down to the garage and airbrushed an auto body with your settings and its one of the best paint jobs that I have ever achieved. I can't thank you enough for this video. Its crazy to think how long I have been struggling and had things so wrong all these years. It really had nothing to do with my skill, i just had my airpressure WAY to high and my thinner ratio WAY too low. Thank you so very very much.
Wow, thank you so much for the kind words. I’m glad to hear the video was useful for you.
Good video. For those new to modelling nozzle size may have been useful. Cheers
Only complaint I have with Tamiya is they haven't updated their color line in some time and mainly cater to the traditional scale modelers, and not other hobby painters like gunpla (which is odd considering it's a Japanese company). So, Mr. Color is my new go to, along with Vallejo.
I would agree, i have explored Vallejo air for a bit for the simplicity.
When I got into airbrushing a few years ago a friend told me a few great trick for Tamiya paints. Never shake, stir the bottle to mix. This solves the paint getting trapped and drying on the bottle lip.
Use a pipette to remove the paint.
When the bottle is brand new, open it fill it almost to the top with lacquer thinner for acrylics, and it will be perfectly mixed or thinned.
That certainly wouldn't be a 50/50 mix.
I fill them to the top with regular rubbing alcohol.
I like the jars. I just use a pipette to transfer the paint and you can be just as accurate as if it were a dropper bottle.
Yes-this! I personally dislike the squeeze bottles-what if you need to return paint to the bottle? Pretty much impossible with a squeeze bottle. Disposable pipettes are the way to go. And if you’re opposed to the waste of disposables, use glass pipettes and rinse after each use.
And the jar is stirrable while the dropper is not. You never know, Is the dropper paint bottle mixed well or not?
Same. Another advantage is access with a standard electric mixer without modifying the blade (grinding down). e.g. Badger or Trumpeter.
I use their bottles for my own mixes of paint. And I've always used a pipette or eye dropper for mixing or transfer paint.
I noticed he doesn't clean is bottles very well if at all. One I was taught way back in the late 60's is to keep your bottles and caps clean. The paint will last a heck of a long time if you do.
I concur. I'm just getting started after 30+ years away from the hobby, so I purchased an open box Badger 180-12 compressor and Anthem 155, adding the Badger regulator and moisture trap (after trying a "compatible with" eBay version of different threading). Needless to say, kits have improved over the decades so the ICM 1/48 B-26C-50 Invader is on the shelf with the earlier Monogram/Revell version plus Bombshell decals, Quickboost resin, SAC zinc landing gear parts and more. These to honor Dad's 3rd Bomb Wing service in Korea shortly before I was born (with the 9th BW KC-97s at Idaho's former B-24 training base). This channel has great tutorials!
Having looked at 5 videos today on the topic I can says yours is the best by a big margin. Thank you for the direct info, handy titles in the corner, and not focusing on selling us things.
@@drithen wow, thank you for the kind words. I’m glad my video was useful to you.
Very comprehensive guide! In my initial days as modeler (1970!) the only paints available were Humbrol’s enamels. Then Tamiya appeared on the Italian market and they were a game changer back then. I use to thin Tamiya with its thinner and this technique I learned from other modelers: filling up the bottle almost to the rim with thinner and give it a good shake. Using this method I rarely had problem airbrushing Tamiya even though I have admit that I do not use them as much as I used to. It’s been at least 10 years I’ve been using true acrylics (Vallejo, Mig).
Your channel is a great example of how educational videos should be produced. Well edited, straight to the facts, and useful information without any bullshite. I’ve been using Vallejo Air paints (using your custom thinner/flow improver/retarder formula), and I’m happy. I’m trying to create gloss surfaces which I can polish to high gloss (like car models), and I haven’t found good infromation about the Tamiya polish compound’s compatibility with acrylics. I did read a lot that Vallejo is not really a good base for high gloss finish due to the paint peeling up when applying wet sanding.
Cars and high gloss may not be your interest, but it would be really great if you could add a video about using gloss clear coats (maybe Tamiya vs Vallejo) and demonstrating how well they can be wet sanded and polished.
Anyways, thank you again for this great video and I can’t wait for the next one!
Hey, thank you for the kind words and I am glad you liked my videos. I am not a car builder so never had to worry about high shine before. But this is a question that keeps coming up and I have been researching into it. One thing that another modeler discovered recently is that the Vallejo gloss in a can, provided the highest shine and looked as good as any lacquer/enamel. I posted his findings in the Facebook Group I created called "Scale Modeling using Acrylics". I highly recommend joining! The goal is to help other scale modelers using acrylics get the best results. But I will be doing a video on high shine builds soon, so keep an eye out!
Thanks, lots of great information. I too love Tamiya paints and use thew specifically. I have the whole collection. Something I have learned recently is to fill up the bottle with thinner as soon as I open it the first time. I use a hand held stirrer and keep the lid clean after each use. About two years ago I bought a package of about 50 plastic squeeze bottles and started using them. I now find that to be more of a pain and have gone back to using the glass bottles. They are much easier to thin and mix in.
I’m noticing a lot of Tamiya users are thinning their paint in the bottle and transferring into dropper bottles. I’m somewhat tempted to do the same 😂
I do that as well and it seems to work ok
A great tutorial. I have saved this to my favorites.
Wow, thank you that means a lot! I am glad you like the video. If you have any suggestions for videos you would like to see, let me know.
My only issue with Tamiya paints is after all these years, they still refuse to formulate and label their paints in accordance with established federal standard (FS), RLM, RAL, VVS, and NATO colors. YES, you can mix paints to achieve said colors. However, when your competitors follow these standards out of convenience to their customer base, it makes you wonder why Tamiya hasn't gotten on board with it.
I also believe they stopped producing 23mL bottles
@@OdysseyAviation
I buy exclusively their 23ml bottles only buy the 10ml bottles when that's all that is available
I agree they realy should start labeling to the standards you mentioned. Why Tamiya Why...
Tamiya is a Japanese company and it is sold all over the world, not just the USA. They don’t label them in Australian military colours either.
Yea their lineup is extensive but a bit limiting, like you said no standards is a bit lazy. Also the 23 ml are no findable in my country (only flat black for some reasons), and at 10 ml they are quite expensive. The best comparison to tamiya are mr hobby aqueous. Very similar in composition and way more colors (also many federal standards colors). Brushing with both is painfull but the best airbrush flow and coverage
Thanks for sharing. I'm getting ready to airbrush my first model and I bought all Tamiya paint. Looking forward to it!!
Good luck! Feel free to reach out if you have questions.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you very much!!
I just want to add for brush painting - from my own experience, if you use tamiya acrylics with Distilled water, in approx a 1:2 part ratio, 1 drop of water per 2 drops of paint, the results of brush painting can be excellent. It may take a few coats but it does work
I just bought an iwata M2 and a bunch of tamiya paints - I'm sure you've saved me hours of trial and error. Awesome video!
Glad I could help!
Great video, once again! Very informative! Tried to use Tamiya paints and had very good luck with they when practicing spraying them. I usually would add approximately 25% thinner to the paint, and it worked. My only problem with Tamiya paints is the fact that I had to spend so much time mixing to try to get the color I needed to get for a particular model. I realize that there are many sites on the internet which give mixing formulas but having tried many of these mix formulas, I could not get the color I was after. This is why I gave up on Tamiya paints and went to other brands (Vallejo, AK, etc.). This problem with having to mix colors almost constantly, is about the only issue I have with Tamiya.
Very informative video, you answered a lot of my questions! Keep up the good work!
Glad you like the video!
I have Tamiya paints from the mid-80's that are still good. I always try to go with Tamiya first, although I am open to other paints like Mr Color, Mission Model Paints, and Vallejo. Regarding dry paint on the jar lid, I always clean with IPA before putting it away. Lastly, I wrap the jars in cling wrap and use a rubber band tightened around the top to help further seal (preserve) them. In fact, I do this with all brands of paint jars and bottles.
Thanks for doing this video. I’m new to airbrush use and I’m a long term Tamiya user. I’ve never had a issue with brush painting. For sure others complain about the smell, I don’t smell anything.
Glad it was useful to you and welcome to the world of airbrushing!
Very good tutorial
Thank you, glad you liked the video!
Thanks for your video! I had the following problem with Tamiya XF paints: after the paint dried out, there was a "layer of dust" on the surface. These were dry paint particles. Apparently I didn't thin the paint enough.
@@jowe8039 glad I could help!
I like the bottles. As som other guy said, use a dropper to transfer paint to a pallet or a mixing pot. For precise measurement for mixing I use a scale.
Great video. Keep up the good work!
Glad you like the video!
Ive been using Tamiya paint since 1990 or so, airbrush and brush paint, use retardee, and thin the paint. For thinner i always used X20 their on brand, but the couple of years i discovered Mr Leveling Thinner, it also contains a retarder within the thinner cocktail.
Thank you. This was a very nice and informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
You can get a leveler addative for vbrush painting though I thin that helps with reducing brush stroke markings?
I thought most Tamiya paints were acrylic?
@@beano9343 I believe you are correct on the addictive. But I think for brush painting it’s just better to go with a “water-based” acrylic. And yes Tamiya paints are “acrylics” but not a “water-based” acrylics. Acrylic is a general term term , but acrylic can be made with solvents such as alcohol…like Tamiya.
Very cool information, and here I just thought that I sucked at it when I used these paints...😊
Glad it was helpful. And we all suck when we start
I tried Vallejo, Testors, and Ammo. Nothing beats Tamiya in my opinion. I will be using nothing but Tamiya from now on.
@@The12348567 if you love Tamiya, you might also want to check out Mr Hobby paints.
All the cons you mentioned with the bottle style i am guilty of. It was one fo the reasons why i started exploring other options for a time.
This is why some modelers have started pouring Tamiya paint into squeezable tip bottles. I am just to lazy to do that haha
this might be a stupid question but where did you buy that metal bowl thing you used to mix the paint and thinner
@@myheartiscold397 no stupid questions. I bought the cups on Amazon. Here is the thing, don’t search for it in the modeling section. The price way more! I recommend you look in the paint section or medical section. I was able to purchase 20 for 9 dollars delivered.
Great video! Can you also do a video for Acrylic Paints?
Hi DS, did you any particular acrylic paint in mind? I have on my channel a video on how to airbrush Vallejo and Ammo by mig paints. The thinner mixture I use with both paints can be used with all water based acrylics. It will permanently change your acrylic airbrush game.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196thanks for your reply, I will check out your video on Acrylics.
Mix it with a bit of sprue and use that as your dropper… works for me.
For painting modern jets windshields, Tamiya clear paints are quite good, but can I brush them too for this purpose instead of airbrushing? (Due to the small size of a windshield in 1/72, for example)?
Hi, you can but I would only do it if you’re pretty good brush painting. Otherwise you risk brush marks. I personally recommend you mask the area of the canopy you want to tint and gently airbrush it for the best look. Hope that helps.
Thank you, and congratulations for your videos!!
Tamiya also has a retarder which is marketed to help better to facilitate brush painting.
@@mister_fjk1972 Thanks!!
Very useful thanks
@@leeedsonetwo glad you like.
Great information thanks
Glad you liked the video!
Is the Mr. Hobby thinner reall superior Tamyias own thinner? I am beginner so you recommand Mr Hobby?
It is superior. It is had a mild retarder, which prevents tip drying and levels the paint for a smooth finish. But if you can’t find Mr hobby thinner, you can also use regular lacquer thinner from your hardware store. Lacquer thinner works really well. Just make sure to use proper safety measures.
Really great content, thank you!
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you liked the video.
I have no problems with their bottles. I use drip bottles for the mixed/thinned paint. I don't know anyone who sprays Tamiya straight from the bottle. Never noticed any smell from the acrylic paint. Great flat black for engine soot /exhaust color. I like the caps are the paint color. I'm a model railroader so I only work with flat paint. If I need a shine I spray a gloss clear once to get a semi gloss or a satin. In model RRing semi gloss is shiney enough. I only shoot flat acrylic clears on all my freight rolling stock to seal decals & weathering, & on RTR cars to kill the shiney printing. Doesn't effect metallic paints or white paint (yellowing). Fun Fact: shiney paint doesn't last after one trip down the track between the sun & road debris. Besides only a semi gloss paint is used. I used to work on a railroad.
Great video and very helpful. Any tips on cleaning the mess? Any lacquer thinner work? Any recommendations?
@@kastlerock01 hey, so lacquer definitely will clean up Tamiya paints. But lacquer thinner is very toxic and you need to be careful when using it. Plus the smell is incredibly powerful. If you live with people or pets, they might complain. Thus I prefer to use Simple Green. It’s a natural cleaner you can find at your local Walmart for about $5 a bottle. It eats through acrylics like a hot knife through butter.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the quick response. Glad to know something so simple will work to clean out my brush. Wasn’t sure as I haven’t worked with Tamiya much and with it being like an oil based paint had some apprehension. 🤙
Very informative thankyou, what is the best needle size to use in the airbrush.
@@Marks_Channel glad you liked the video! Regarding needle size, you can use any needle size you prefer. I prefer to use .2mm. But you can use .3, .4, .5, .6, etc,
Silly me i used vallejo airbrush thinner with the tamiya surface primer, which immediately clogged my brush, ah well out comes the acetone.
@@lonotalonota5779 doh! Live and learn
Great information. Thanks and I subbed. 👍👍
@@thebobloblawshow8832 thank you! And glad you liked the video.
This video is just what I'm looking for,no one else mentions psi.
Glad I could help!
My x2 with + X20A give me a very glossy result :( any advice to avoid it ? Thx
Hey, so Tamiya X-22 is a gloss varnish. If you’re going for a flat look, you would need to use Tamiya XF-86 Flat clear not X-22.
is it necessary to paint a layer of primer before painting tamiya paints?
Hi, it’s not. Tamiya is an alcohol based acrylic paint. So it sticks better than water based acrylics. But I always recommend primers. They give the paint something to hold on to, they make the model uniform, and most importantly they help reveal flaws.
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 can tamiya primer be applied through brushes? i see bottle glass of tamiya primer available on market
and why aclohol based acrylic paint sticks better than water based acrylic paints?
@ Tamiya primer can be applied by brush. But if you watch the figure modeling community, they brush paint primer and prefer acrylic primer for brush. I think it’s because it’s more easily brush-able than lacy primers.
As far as alcohol based vs water based sticking better. It’s just the properties of the paint. Water based under biting into the plastic.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks a lot
and i have another question
for 3d printed models,is it necessary to apply a layer of primer before painting them with tamiya paints? i think 3d printed models are different from traditional plastic models ,especially on the materials they producted
@@junhaogu-ee8wh so much like resin, 3d printed parts or kits, you want to wash prior to painting and you don't have to prime. But honestly, I recommend you prime. It will reveal any flaws. Your eyes won't catch the small flaws.
Great video !!! Thanks !!!
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
This may be a stupid question but I’m trying to understand certain terms correct me if I’m wrong but a 70/30 mix to me sounds like (using 10 drops of paint) 7 drops of thinner to 3 drops of paint, so am I to believe then 50/50 mix (again using 10 drops of paint) 5 drops of thinner and 5 drops of paint?
Hi Ken, I am not sure I fully understand your question. When I say 50/50, I mean half paint/half thinner. When I say 70/30, I mean 70% thinner and 30% paint. Does that make sense? Again, I am not sure what you are asking exactly.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 ok maybe Im not explains myself….if you were to use 20ml of paint how much thinner would you use?
@@kenm6533 I would use 20 ml of thinner. so 1 to 1 ratio. But that is if I am doing just general painting. If I want a more smooth finish, for example a car model, where a smooth finish is very important. I would do 70 parts thinner to 30 parts paint. Does that help?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 yes it does thank you so much , Also are you saying thinner the paint would give a smoother finish? I would guess you would do multiple coats as well
@@kenm6533 yes, you got it! For general painting you can do 50/50 thinner to paint. But if you want a smooth finish for example for car modeling or a polished airplane model, you want to do 70/30 thinner to paint. But you will need to do more coats.
What Ratio would Tamiya lp9 clear gloss be?
Keep in mind, that no matter the gloss type (acrylic, enamel, lacquer) it needs to be sprayed at low PSI (12-15, no more than that) and it should go on wet. LP9 is a lacquer and not their acrylic-hybrid so use proper ventilation when you spray it. I recommend spraying it using Mr. Leveling Hobby Thinner thinned 50/50 (Paint to thinner) at 12-15 psi.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks .
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I thought lp9 was a lacquer?
@@col72 yes it is a lacquer. I wrote it wrong. I meant to say it is lacquer and not a part of there acrylic-hybrid line.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 lol cheers
Is the X-22 clear airbrushed in the same way than tamiya gloss paints ?
Yes, X-22 sprayed exactly like the gloss paints. Make sure it goes on wet and it leave a nice beautiful gloss finish!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196
Thank you
50 thinner 50 paint
12-15 psi
Near the model
And wet coats
Don’t forget a little Tamiya Retarder to help it level.
Bottle design: recyclable glass, holds much more paint than squeeze bottles.Others have throw away plastic. Yes, top of bottle is a problem with drying . Does smell.....Badger paint stirrer works the best, that's how the paint manufacturer does it.
Definitely like recyclable glass, and the more paint. But definitely disagree on the stirring sticks to mix the paint. The vortex will permanently change your color mixing game.
What airbrush did you use?
I used 2 different airbrushes in the video: the Harder Steenbeck Evolution and Infinity. But don’t fixated on the airbrush, the techniques are the most important part. If you understand them, you can use any airbrush.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thank you!
I always add at least one stainless steel ball (available from AK) to each Tamiya jar and find I don't neet do stir the paint to mix the pigments with the cellulose. If I need a very precise mix, I use cheap plastic pipettes to measure out drops.
Ray, recommend not adding in the stirring ball into Tamiya paint bottles. Unfortunately one time I had the stirring ball chip the bottle and there were glass flakes in my paint.
I no longer shake Tamiya acrylic bottles. I find that this causes the paint to be globbed up on the sides of the jar and the lid. Later, dried chunks of paint fall into the paint and ruin it. I use a Badger paint stirrer.
When I brush Tamiya paints, I do not even wipe the brush on the jar. I squeeze a few drops onto a mixing bowl and paint from there.
I do put SS balls into Vallejo bottles.
If they go to a plastic bottle they'll just evaporate like the rest do and if you wipe the top you dont get the dry paint plus you can't easily knock over a tamiya pot 😊
I've always used Tamiya acrylics but the range lacks tremendously.
I completely agree with you and after I uploaded the video I wish I had added that part in.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 still a helpful video! Thanks for it. 😀
Thanks for the video.
Some observations from someone who is not very good:
Most RUclipsrs say not to spray too close.
Also, to spray in light coats.
Also, don't go over a previously painted area that is still wet.
You don't seem to adhere to any of these principles.
My biggest beef is that Tamiya gloss acrylic takes forever to cure; i.e. at least 2 weeks. Within that period you cannot handle or apply masking or you seriously risk leaving marks and finger prints that cannot be rubbed off and must be sanded and repainted.
I have read that Tamiya lacquer thinner used with the acrylic gloss would harden up more quickly.
And yes I thin at 50/50.
Hi John, so to your first few points. Yes, I do not adhere to some of the "common" airbrush principles. I think some of it based on outdated information. I used to work as a professional airbrush artist and in my training, we went over why/how to do certain things. Of course there is always some nuance to everything. But for modeling purposes, I recommend trying the techniques I shared. I think you will have great results from them. I know this doesn't fully answer the things you listed....I would probably need to do an hour long video to explain everything.
Regarding your issue with Tamiya gloss taking forever to cure. If you change to thinning Tamiya paint with lacquer thinner (just the normal stuff from the hardware store) or even just Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner, the paint dries and is ready to go in about 30 mins.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for your response. As regards trying Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner with Tamiya acrylic gloss, I have tried that and it made no difference at all to being able to handle the model within a day or so.
I have yet to try Tamiya lacquer thinner with the acrylic gloss.
I am not the only one to express this difficulty and frustration.
The paint remains soft for a long time and cannot be handled in the meantime.
Thank you
Glad you liked the video!
Nice job, while I like the Mr.Leveling Thinner, I lean to the yellow cap'd Tamiya Lacquer thinner for airbrushing their acrylic paints. The lacquer thinner seems to have a bit more bite on the primer and helps make a tougher finish IMHO.
I have a recommendation: I do jar cleaning maintenance on jars, lids and threads every time I open a jar. In the 70’s my Dad would have been mad as hell if I put the jars away like that!!!
Catlady....first, hello to a fellow cat lover! I have two chubby brats of my own and foster kittens. Is your profile picture that of your cat? But in regards to what you said. I also try to keep my jars clean! And if there is build up I try to clean it out before I put the bottles away. These are bottles I bought from a fellow modeler who wasn't as through on his cleaning.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Meow that makes sense! You don’t seem like the type to keep messy jars, or “Pots” as our Brit friends across the pond say. 🇬🇧 ☕️ 🫖 🌂 Yes, that was Heterochromia from many years ago. He was a real character and knew he was something special!
Use a disposable pipette to remove paint from the bottle-paint never gets on the jar threads, therefore no problem with dried flakes falling into the jar. Also, never shake the bottle to mix the paint-always stir. This also helps with not fouling the lid and jar threads
Does anyone else have coverage troubles with Tamiya red, yellow and white? Seems like it take 5 or 10 coats to get complete coverage.
Don, do you paint over a primer? In particular yellow is incredibly hard to get good coverage with. So the best way is to prime with Pink (yes I said Pink). Mr. Surfacer pink primer works really well for this purpose. You can also uses pink primer with Red. For white, primer with light grey and that will help alot.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196- I am using Mr. Surfacer grey on almost all. I have some Tamiya rattle can pink, I'll experiment with yellow over pink tonight and let you know tomorrow.
What are you trying to cover? Works well with a white or tan undercoat.
Tamiya makes good paint, but I prefer Revell , and AK paints.
Can I use Vallejo thinner to thin Tamiya paints ?
I haven't tried Vallejo Thinner with Tamiya paints. I however don't think it will work because Vallejo is water-based acrylics and Tamiya is an alcohol-based acrylic. I would recommend sticking to Mr. Hobby Leveling thinner for best results or Tamiya X-20A. Hope this helps!
There's only one thing I don't like about Tamiya Acrylics. That they are no longer available in 24ml bottles outside Japan or America. Being restricted to availability of only their Mini 10ml bottles in ROW distribution sucks.
If you keep your bottles clean-up would have this problem ,cut tamiya paints with Mr hobby leaving thinner wear a mask when spraying any paints
Mmmm, it is possible to 'hairy stick' brush paint Tamiya's acrylics, but you gotta reach an understanding with the paint, on its terms. And, I didn't try to brush paint anything bigger than 1/72 wings for little WW1 airplanes & 1/35 tank crew people.
I grew up on food 😂
Personally, I'm not a massive fan of tamiya over mr hobby aqueous.
Tamiya is the dirtyest pot rubbish lids and dries out in the pot youd think they would sort this out
If it dries out then your jar rims are not clean. Mine last years
20 minutes video... why people love to talk so much, why cant just go straight to the point and make video between 1-3 minutes
@@degs7693 I’m literally one of the most concise and straight to the point modelers. But I had to explain several concepts that you cannot effectively do in 30 seconds. In a 20 minutes I covered over 6 concepts…which ones to a little over 2 plus minutes per concept. I’m not sure what you’re complaining about.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 He's complaining just to complain 😉