Well, it's a major game changer for me. I have owned an airbrush for many years, but I have seldom used it because of difficulties with using it. After following your recommendations, all that is in the past. Thank you a million for your video. I will post a picture of my model once I finish it.
I am so happy to hear! Glad my videos have helped you start loving airbrush. I have created a Facebook group, please feel free to post your pictures there!
Thank you, thank you, I’ve tried your combination of thinner etc and for the first time ever I can now airbrush Vallejo paints with confidence. Many many thanks, I will recommend your video to every modeller I know as a log of us struggle with these paints.
I'm 73 years old. You just taught this old dog a new trick ! Thanks so much for the update. Oh, and you have some really nice builds there. Keep up the great work ! 😊
…a key thing you’ve mentioned…make sure you have small bubbles on the backflush which could easily rise up…if not, that particular paint is still too thick…just add a couple of drops of thinner at a time until you get those small bubbles rising up from the cup as your video shows. 👍
just want to say a big thanks to this video. I always had problems with spraying the paints. After few seconds big mess, no paint, tip dry etc etc. All fun gone with airbrushing because of that. So the hobby was still for a few years..... The fun was gone. Found this video few days back and it triggered me. So i had to try this. Grabbep an empty bottle, made the mix. Put 5 drops in the airbrush, 6 drops of paint and it worked awesome!!! The fun is back! No more annoying/fear to paint models after building. So i need to clean the bench now with unfinished models etc :P Also need to try if it works with the vallejo primers. That was also giving me some issues after few minutes of using. So big thanks again!!! 👍
Glad to hear that it helped you enjoy airbrushing again! For Vallejo primers, I recommend adding in "Future" or if you are in Europe, it is called "Klear". It helps the the primer go rock hard in 30 minutes and makes it easily sandable. If you use my thinner mixture with vallejo primers, make sure to wait 24 hours before sanding. But to be honest, I have moved on from Vallejo primers to Badger primers. Badger primers thinned with my mixture, airbrush beautifully and go rock hard in 30 minutes. Then you can sand them easily!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Will do some testing with the primers :) Used the black primer today but after a few minutes of use it clogged the nozzle. So had to clean that first to prime the other models :P
You are spot on here. I had terrible trouble with Vallejo acrylics initially. Did exactly what you said and perfect results. I thin 50:50 and add 10% retarder, 23 psi in my Iwata Eclipse. I actually put on 14 coats of paint on one model and they went on so thin that it looks like only 1 coat was applied - no detail lost. Excellent video 👍👍
David, glad the mixture worked well for you! And you got it exactly, the mixture helps the paints airbrush well and lay down without hiding the details. You can create different effects this way and get fantastic results with acrylics.
Just found this video (no idea why i had not earlier), your mix of flow improver/thinner is an absolute godsend. Have always found the Vallejo paints to be very hit and miss, some would work great as is and other not. Ive now got alot more confidence with using these paints. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
Thanks for the video. Thanks for the formulas. Have tried both and they work great! Adding the Future to the mix also saves a step and I can start decaling as soon as I let the paint/mixture/future dry. Thanks again for doing your videos! Tom
I’ve had some great results using Vallejo paints and than next time I can’t get it to play nice at all. Your video has really helped and I just wanted to say a thank you. Looking forward to seeing more help videos
As a complete AB noob trying to figure out which paints to get, this is super useful. And starting with water based paints should simplify things for me too.
I’m cheap and kind to save money ha. So I use a product called “simple green”. It’s a natural house hold cleaner that goes for $4 in Walmart. It eats acrylic paints. If you watch “airbrush tips and tricks” video, that is what I use to clean out my airbrush.
This works perfectly! Thank you so much for sharing. I've struggled with Vallejo paints drying in the tip so quickly and this just completely eliminated the problem. It also works just as well with the Model Color range as well. I even used it (and your techniques) to thin down and airbrush the thick craft/artist paints. Worked perfectly.
You Changed my life! OK, that's a little dramatic, but this tip has restored my faith in Vallejo paints. Thanks for sharing your expertise, and relieving the suffering of newbies like myself.
Dude…THANK YOU. I found your video today, and on a whim I tried your method. Totally works!! Well, like 98% works as I probably need to do some minor adjustments. But still, I can see this will save me from ditching all the Vallejo Air products that have frustrated me for months! Thanks again!
Very useful update from your prior video. I started using your mix (but using AK retarder as I do not have the Vallejo one), and it works perfectly. Great tutorial! I do also mix my colors in the airbrush cup and never had problems.
Found your video while doing some research into mixing the various types of Vallejo paints. EXCELLENT technique and it helped me fix a few problems. Recently I was working on a Star Trek model and laid down a nice layer of primer. Then I used a mixture of Vallejo Mecha off-white and Mecha Model Air White to get a very light gray. I had HORRIBLE fisheye and spotting. After doing some tests I found that it was mixing the two types of paints. After I decided to just go with the Mecha Off-White as my primary color it went on fine. Unfortunately, there's some kind of hardener and varnish in the Mecha line that made masking and painting over it an absolute nightmare, even sanding. Something in the paint made the masking tape not providing clean lines. Same tape I've used for MONTHS on half a dozen models. No problem until I used the Mecha paint. Sorry for rambling. I loved your video and just wanted to share a tidbit, maybe see if you had the same experience.
Glad you liked the video! And Hello to a fellow Trekkie. I can't say I have had the same problem as you. I have been able to mix Vallejo Mecha paints with other Mecha paints, with no problems. I have also been able to mix Mecha paints with other Vallejo paint brands (except for the premium brands). Just my guess....but the bottles you have might have gone bad. The only time I have had a problem is, when I purchased several bottles of Vallejo paint from a fellow modeler who added in paint stirring balls. But he used the wrong type and the stirring balls rusted slightly. This caused all the bottles to go bad. I could not use any of the paints for airbrush or even brush painting. Other then that, I have never had any issues with Vallejo paints of any kind.
Thanks, a great introduction to thinning paint and resolving all the issues I have had previously. Only wish I had seen it sooner and so economical with the paint, amazing.
Excellent explanation and walk through! I've only got the flow improver and paint at the moment. I plan to attempt w/o the thinner and retarder (my first airbrushing attempt at that) but its comforting to know that the optimum recipe and instructions are here if I'm not happy w/the results. Thanks again!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I went ahead and ordered the thinner and used the 70/30 ratio for a first try on some cardboard. I figured: Why not make it easy on myself and do it right the 1st time. The application seemed to go well. Thanks again for the interesting and informative content.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 i was referring to the dilution recipe (70% flow improver 30% thinner). Side note: I just learned, from one of your other videos, the difference between Vallejo Air and Vallejo colors. I'm using the colors, which seems thicker, and as such I assume, need more thinner?
Sergio, glad you liked the video! For Vallejo Model Color, I have another video on my channel. Recommend you check that video out. As far as Vallejo Primer, I recommend not using the thinner mixture. It increases the drying time…which is not something I recommended. To get the best results from Vallejo primer, I recommend adding in “Future” floor polish. It makes the primer go rock hard in 30 mins and also makes it sandable! But to be honest, I have moved on to Badger Stynylrez primers. They are amazing! They go rock hard and super easy to sand. I thin the badger primers with the thinner solution (60:40) at 25psi. And you get good results and a nice smooth finish!
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thank you for the overview. Can you please demonstrate the proper way to spray, if you have larger model sections to paint, for example when building the DKM U-BOAT 1/48 SCALE. THANK YOU
Hey, I am glad you like the video. So I didn't know what a 1/48 DKM U-boat was and had to look it up. Wow, that is a big model, haha. Unfortunately, I don't have a model that big to do a video on. I mostly build model 1/48 airplanes and 1/35 tanks....which are much smaller than the U-boat. I am currently working on a 1/48 Skyraider and that is a pretty big model by airplane standards. Hopefully that might give you some insight. What I will say is, I used repair large paint works. I would recommend a .5mm or .7mm needle airbrush. I would go in section and assemble the painted parts separately. For such a big model, you might want to look at a siphon feed airbrush because it can hold much more paint. Look at a Paasche VL, airbrush artists use it for large paint projects and you can pick it up super cheap. I hope this is helpful. If you need more direct help, email me at davisstudent25@gmail.com
Your mix also works very well with Life Color water base acrylic paints…which are usually a challenge. I really like Life Color military colors; particularly, Ral.
Yes! The mixture works on Life Colors and Aeromaster as well. I find several people who use Life Colors really like aeromaster as well. It also works on Mission Models.
Great going on and hardly any tip dry but I noticed that after drying, if I have to mask areas to paint another colour on the same piece, the original paint is susceptible to flaking and damage. That’s happening with a good primer as well. I’ll keep on experimenting with the ratios but I think it’s solved more problems than it’s created.
Hmm, can you share your mixture make up and thinning ratios? Because you shouldn't have any issue with applying tape over the paint in just 15 mins. If you see my 1/32 Bf--109, 48th bf-109, and F-86 video. I taped over the kits in just 15 mins no problem.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196Thanks for the swift reply. 70% flow improver 71.562. 30% thinner 71.161. 10% retarder 70.597 These are the newer Vallejo bottles with the all white labels. Slightly more paint than thinner. Ten drops to twelve drops in a Sparmax Max-4 at 25-30 psi. Now it’s entirely possible that the primer deteriorated somewhat with handling. I’ve had to measure, assemble without glue and disassemble the cockpit of this model a few times to measure and test fit light boxes and LEDs. I tried a virgin piece of styrene that I lightly sanded before spraying the model parts and this has not suffered flaking or damage in a similar way. My instinct is to remove the paint and start again with a surface primer.
@@lucaviggiani2189 the formula breakdown is fine. But for best atomization thin the paint 50/50 and drop your psi to 18-20 psi (25-30 is way to much for acrylics). As far as the primer, what primer did you use and how did you thin it?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanks. I was taking the psi wrongly from another tutorial that was spraying Model Air neat from the bottle except a few drops of flow improver. The 50ml bottles I got from Amazon have a tiny droplet size which may have affected my ratio. Primer is almost always Tamiya fine surface primer straight from the rattle can.
Great video and nice presentation. This will be very helpful. That thinner medium is great stuff. I use it as the thinning agent for brush painting instead of thinner or water. It seems to thin the paint without making it too transparent. I also add a small drop of retarder to the mix. My first airbrush was a Badger and I still have an old 100LG that I use from time to time. I just ordered a Badger Sotar from the sale last week to try out for mottling. Like you I have a lot of airbrushes but for 75 dollars I could not pass it up. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for this. I have only started airbrushing and can’t even get paint to come out of the gun. There is apparently some evidence that Revell Aqua paint is incompatible with my particular brush which might prove to be the case but I was surprised to find that such problems actually existed. It’s not exactly shouted from the rooftops by manufacturers but once you voice the problems they suddenly admit that this can occur. Did you experiment with other acrylics or was Vallejo your first and only choice? I’m all on board with not being solvent based by the way which also adds another restriction on paint choices but well worth the compromise in my opinion. Great video well explained and absolute gold for someone like me just starting out.
Hey glad you like the video! And I am confused what you mean by "Revell Aqua Paint" is incompatible with your airbrush. Pretty much all paint is usable in an airbrush if you properly thin in. More importantly, on my facebook group post. Those who use Revell Aqua paints have used this thinner mixture to airbrush paints. You should have the same results. But in regards to your question, I have tested this mixture on :Vallejo model color, model air, game color, game air, Ammo by mig original acrylic paints (currently testing them on the Atom range), Ak 1st gen and Ak 3rd gen, Mission Model Paints, Army Painters, Humbrol acrylics, and a few others.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 quite simply anything with a higher viscosity than plain water won’t pass through the airbrush! Someone else has already confirmed that they too had this same issue with this brand of paint used with the Gaahleri Mobius .3 and Gaahleri have now confirmed that some paints are less compatible with this model. Like you I find this difficult to understand but certainly all of my attempts so far have proved fruitless. I will use another colour and see if this makes a difference as my original paint is Alumnium which I suspect might contain metallic solids. I also have a single colour of Vallejo to try so my plan is to road test a few options and see if any of them work. Ultimately I can return the airbrush and buy an alternative of course but I would very much like to understand what’s going on before changing. It did occur to me that I should use one with a thicker needle size but most review videos would indicate this is not necessary? Thanks for your input all the same. 👍
Friday update! After testing several options I have found I’m ok as long as I don’t use the Revell thinners!!! If I thin with water it all works a treat. Use the thinners and the job stops instantly. Who knew eh? No doubt there is some clever reason but you can rest assured the remaining bottle of thinners will go down the sink. Can’t believe that cost me over 4 hours of grief. I’ll probably have a go with your recipe as plain water is not really best practice for the sake of the airbrush. Thanks again.
I just mixed up a batch for airbrushing Model Air products with my Harder-Steenbeck Infinity (.15 nozzle/needle) using the ratio you recommend. I used a 10 ml glass jar since I have a lot of them. marked the graduations for 70% Flow Improver - 30% Airbrush Thinner. Then another mark for an additional 10% of the TOTAL of the TWO previous mixtures once COMBINED, for the Retarder Medium. I have the very same three products you used as well... same "part numbers" even. After shaking for several minutes, is it common that the final mix should be hazy with millions of extremely tiny micro-bubbles? I couldn't tell very well with your squirt bottle, but it looked pretty clear from what I can tell. My retarder medium is probably 5 years old and spent a year in a detached garage -hot summers - cold winters. It is a bit thicker than Elmer's glue. In the 20 minutes since I began typing this, it has cleared somewhat, but I will shake it I Thanks for making this video, I really would like to use my Infinity more, especially with that .15 nozzle for fine work, but the tip dry at various air pressures is no fun! Cheers!
Hi Djhaurt, yes it can be a bit hazy at first with lots of bubbles. But it will become clear as it rests. You should be good to go and can start painting. I use my H&S .15 and .2mm for airbrushing my models. If you check out my Skyraider, Bf-109, and F-86 video. You can see how I go about painting using smaller needle set up.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you so much for clearing that up! (pun definitely intended). I did watch your F-86 video you recommended. I did the 1/48 Hasegawa F-86-F-30 a while back. I will also vouch for Flory's washes. It was a pretty good kit and who doesn't like the Sabre? I will absolutely check out your other videos and subscribe. Thanks again for you reply! Cheers
Great video! What do you need to do to ‘adjust for temperature’? I live in Singapore so it is almost always 60-70% plus humidity and 28-32 degrees C. What do I need to adjust for this climate inline with your comments? And lastly, the two spoons at the end of your demo - was it that the first one was incorrectly sprayed and the second is the correct technique? Thanks 🙏🏻
Richard, glad you like the video. In regards to your question...you should be fine mixing 50/50 thinner mixture to paint at 60-70% humidity and 28-32 degrees C. But you might need to add in more thinner if it goes to 38 degrees C. I live in Virginia and in spring/summer we have similar temperatures and humidity. I have never had any issues. And yes, the spoons at the end...the first spoon was incorrectly sprayed and the second spoon correctly sprayed. Unfortunately, RUclips removed the audio has I had "copyright" music in the background. But keep in mind that was un-primed spoons. Over primer, you can go a bit heavier.
Enjoyed this and I'd like to give it a try. Would it work with other acrylic paints? I would have thought the larger volume would have been thinners too?
Hey, yes the formula works on pretty much all water-based acrylics. I have tested on Ammo original acrylics (you can see the video on my channel), ak 1st Gen and 3rd Gen, mission models, humbrol acrylics, and more. Currently I’m testing it on the new Atom paint range.
So I bought badger Grey acrylic primer, vallejo airbrush thinner, flow improver and retarder. I am wondering if I need the future in the mix for priming? Thanks for all the airbrush info!
Hey, so you can do two things to make Vallejo primer more stronger, more airbrush-able, and sand-able. One is to add in Future…but since Future is more expensive than gold…that’s not the best option anymore haha. The second thing you can do to get the best results with Vallejo primers is to use the thinner mixture in my video. It will make the primer airbrush better, less clogging, smoother finish, and most importantly you can sand the primer after about an hour. I recommend 70/30 primer to thinner mixture at 20-25 psi (based on your airbrush).
I am going to try out your thinner mix with my Stynylrez primer. One friendly critique when you were spraying the red at about the 7:00 mark saying there was no tip dry- I didn’t see any starting/stoping. Wouldn’t running non stop not allow the tip to dry? But I am hopeful your recipe will help my priming - thanks for the video!
@@fonkyjoe hey, so I gave a video on my channel where I use my thinner mixture with Stynylrez. It works well! Because it allows the primer to follow better. So definitely do it. Regarding your comment for the 7:00 mark. I didn’t show the full video, I had to edit the video and speed it up because it was about 5 mins long. So I did stop many times and restart.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I tried the thinner mix with Stynylrez today - was a little nervous as to how thin it was, but it worked great- no tip dry issues either. Thanks for this!
Great tips on Vallejo Air paints. Can the same technique be used with Vallejo Model paints? I converted a spare room in the attic to my modeling room. This works great most of the year. However, i live in New England and it gets pretty cold up there without heat. Because of this i have to move my modeling to the kitchen and take with me what i need for the current project. My question is will the acrylics i have stored up there survive the cold winter?
Hey, just read your message. Yes, same techniques for Vallejo Model Color (I think that is what you are asking about). I have a video on how to use the mixture formula on Model Color on my channel. I recommend checking it out. One thing to note is to give the Model Color more time to dry before masking over. With Vallejo Model air, I can mask over in about 15-20 mins. I would give Model Color at least 1 hour. Regarding the temperature question....you want to store acrylics room temperature if possible or at the very least try not to go below 55 degrees (that has been my experience). If they get to cold, the paint becomes a chalky mess. Hope that helps!
David, I have a video on how to best spray Vallejo primers, check it out. And as far as Varnishes, I think Vallejo varnishes with Vallejo thinner at 50/50.
Hi there, I've recently started airbrushing and found this very informative. Thanks for the video! I've had a lot of issues with the paint being very splattered and could not figure out what was going on. Will definetely experiment with air pressure and different thinner-paint mixture ratios. I do have 1 question, you mentioned good trigger control over paint and airflow. The paint part I understand, do you play around with the airflow during airbrushing? With the trigger? I have a H&S evolution so it is possible to also control the airflow. What I've been doing so far is just pressing the trigger down all the way for airflow and then adjusting only the paint flow.
Shadow, glad you liked the video and it was helpful for you. Regarding your question: yes, you must play around with the airflow via the airbrush trigger. Here is some general guidance that might help you. The closer you are to the surface of the model, the less air and paint you want. But as you further away you want to increase the paint and airflow.
Great Video. Really informative. Thank you so much! Three questions: 1) You mention in the video “controlling for temperature”. Could you extend on this a little bit? I am working in a rather cold basement which might be around 10 to 15 degrees Celsius in winter and was wondering if this would change your recommendations? 2) Can your recommendations be transferred to other acrylic paints such as Ak or Mr Aqueous? 3) What about spraying Vallejos Varnish (I still got them flying around here)? Thank you so much in advance! Cheers
Hey, glad you liked the video! Regarding the your questions: 1) So there are 3 parts to airbrushing: PSI, Paint thinning, and Temperature. Temperature isn't really major unless you in extreme areas. When it is colder, typically you don't need to thin your paint as much. For hotter temperature you will most likely need to thin more. For 10 to 15 degrees, the paint will still spray but you probably won't need to thin your paint as much. I would say try 60/40 or even 70/30 paint to thinner at 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. My other recommendation would be to let your air compressor run for 5 mins before airbrushing to get everything warmed up a bit. 2) You can use this mixture on all water-based acrylics. So if you are talking about Ak 1st or 3rd gen water-based acrylics then yes (I have tested this mixture with both). Mr. Aqueous is an acrylic paint but not a water-based acrylic. So you can't use it with that. 3) For varnishes I don't recommend using the mixture. They have some stuff in them that makes them sticky. If you are using Vallejo premium flat or gloss, thin it with vallejo thinner at 50/50 and 12-15 psi. Light coats. and this is very important.....for both of them, let them cure for AT least 24 hours. Hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions.
Finally, when things are just right, you mentioned "adjusted for temperature". However this is never explained (or else I missed it). I followed the thinning and air pressure adjustments - what compensation do you do for temperature?
This one is not as big of a factor and so I didn't go into it as much. Temperature affects paint (all types of paint) but that is really more if you live in a very hot place or very cold place. If you live in a moderate climate (say between 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit)....honestly its not something you need to really worry about. It would take to long to type how paint is impacted by temperature...I can send you a video that explains it.
Thank you for uploading a lot of informational video which helps us who are just starting to get into the hobby. Would like to get your thoughts. does your thinning mixture work with vallejo mecha lineup? would there be a difference of the paint to thinner ratio?
Hi yes it works with mecha line as well! Several modelers have tested it out with the mecha line. I believe that mecha comes in two lines, a ready to airbrush line and brush painting line. For the airbrush line, thin it 50/50. For the brush paint, thin it 80/20 (thinner to paint)
Just stumbled on this video. Great info!! I didn't read through all of the comments, but a question: I thought Model Air didn't have to be thinned? I'll use this on Model Color, which I use a bit more than Model Air.
@@Shooter_FPV thank you, glad you like the video. Yes model air is airbrush ready. But the thing is, paint is tested in a lab with specific conditions. Unless you have those exact conditions in your hobby room…you will always need to adjust your paint to get the best results. No matter the paint. And yes, the formula works on model color. I have a video on my channel for thinning model color with the mixture formula.
Brilliant video and thanks for sharing. Few questions if I may, since you have made me thinking of converting from lacquer based paints: 1. What about drying time and paint durability afterwards (are they easily scratched off or prone to have fingerprints on them, handling in general) ? 2. Does the paint "tolerate" the rest of the modelling procedure, like decal softeners, weathering with oils etc? 3. Which varnishes (gloss & flat) do you recommend to use on top of these, vallejo air or something different?
Thank you, glad you liked the video. Regarding your questions, 1) The paints will dry in about 15 minutes. If you look at my other videos, I handle the paints with my bare hands and no gloves on. No issue of leaving finger prints or paint rubbing off, etc. They are fairly scratch resistant....but this is subjective, because how hard are you scratching the paint? But overall handling and drying time is very good. I painted the entire Bf-109 in about 35-40 minutes. That includes black basing and several light main coats. 2) Yes, the paint will tolerate the rest of the modeling procedure if you have a gloss coat on. I use AK extreme Gauzy agent. I let it dry for 15-20 mins and then use enamel washes with no problems what so ever. I know some modelers recommend waiting minimum of 24 hours. I also use the strongest decal setting solution, Solvaset, and the paint holds up just fine. 3) So for my final flat coat, I go with Vallejo Matte Varnish. I personally think it leaves a very nice Matte finish that is not completely a dead flat. I will say if you decide to use the Vallejo Matte, you HAVE TO LET it dry for 24 hours....no exception. I also use to use Tamiya Flat as well, which goes rock hard in 2 hours. For gloss coats for decaling/weathering, I stick with AK Gauzy agent....but before that I use to use Future. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any further questions.
Yes, they work with all Vallejo paints except with Vallejo Premium....as I haven't tired them yet. With the mecha lines, I believe one line is airbrush ready and the other is made for airbrushing.....if I am remembering correctly. With the airbrush line, do 50/50 thinner to primer. With the brush paint version, 80/20 thinner to paint.
Hi! It was a very good video! I've been trying to blow Vallejo for three years. I have 3 pistols at home, two Chinese and one H&S Ultra. All three blow it badly, they spit, the blowing is rubbish. It's like there are small fluffs in the paint, but not airborne dust. I also tried your recipe, but unfortunately it's the same, even though I blow it with mist. The pistols are clean, over the years I've tried to adjust everything, but it doesn't work, I give up :)
Vallejp paints have a congealing problem. If you use a wet pallet, you will notice it immediately. Every time you squirt a fresh bottle, it fights and squirts a congealed snotty bit. I may do this several times before the tip clears up. I believe the problem is they are putting the paints in the bottles too dry, so the air inside is dry enough to congeal them.I think they put just a little bit of gel media in their mix, which is why it gels rather than just plain drying out hard like most other paints. I'm experimenting with squeezing them and sucking a few water drops in to see how many drops is needed on average to eliminate that behavior. And yes, that means that the fancy "dropper bottles" everyone seems to praise are actually a pain in the pertushki for anything other than a wet pallet.
Thank for this video👍 Im new to this and wonder how long i have to wait after a vallejo gloss varnish before i can do wash? I have Both enamel and vallejo wash wich should i use?
Josa, glad you liked the video. In regards to your question, if you are using Vallejo's gloss, you need to wait 24 hours minimum. If you don't wait that long, the gloss coat will start breaking apart. Since I don't like to wait that long, I use AK interactive Guazy Agent. It goes rock hard in about 20-25 minutes. You can apply a wash as soon it goes hard. If you plan to use Vallejo washes, go in small sections and don't wait to long before wiping away the excess. Acrylic washes like Vallejo, once fully dry are more difficult to remove. Enamel washes are easier to remove using odorless mineral spirits but they smell more. I hope this helps!
Yep you can use Tamiya enamel wash over acrylics. Just use a gloss coat first. I recommend AK Intermediate Guazy Agent. Spray it on and wait 20 mins. Then apply the Tamiya wash.
Hi Andrew, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
Good question. I’m not sure as I have never tried with the Vallejo Premium paints. I believe it should work as they are acrylic polyurethane paints, and the thinner and flow improver work on polyurethane
Hi Alvin, I have a video on my channel for thinning Vallejo Model Colors and how to brush paint as well. Check it out, I think it might be helpful to you.
How does Vallejo Model Game(?) (not Model air), the one that is for Models but not specifically for airbrush, handle this recipe? The store I bought from said 2/3 airbrush thinner and 1/3 Flow improver. So I bought 200ml thinner & Flow improver. And the basic colors in nuance's that fits well on fishing lures. Have you tried the ratio I read on my paint supplier? It's exactly the same 3 part just change thinner/flow improver and nothing more.
Hi, it works with all Vallejo paint lines (except for the premium line, haven't tested those). So yes it works with Vallejo model game air. I have tested all the various combinations....I tested this recipe for years. The recipe I listed in the video is the best for airbrushing for a long time and no tip drying.
I've seen another video (from person also has decades of experience) that recommended the opposite ratio of 80% thinner and 20% flow improver. I'm wondering if the difference is a matter of preference or if the optimal mix might be dependent on variables such as type of airbrush, humidity or something like that? Or perhaps the exact ratio is not very critical?
Robert, this is a great question. There are numerous mixture formulas out there for Vallejo/ammo, etc. And before I came up with my formula I looked at those other formulas. Here is the key question to ask when you decide which formula you want to use. What are you painting? Yes, you can 80/20 thinner/flow improver to get results. But the problem is, all the other formulas I looked at were short-term solutions. What do I mean by that? You can use the mixture to do short-term airbrushing. And if you are shooting paint rather than airbrushing paint....like Gunpla figure builders do, then these other mixtures work fine. But I go for long periods of time where I need consistent performance....so my goal was to come up with something that would give me consistent results for long long airbrushing sessions. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 video, I airbrush for over 40 mins (built was speed up 2x) with no issues. You will not get that with the other mixtures. I know I tested them. The other benefit of creating a long performing mixture is that it also works very very well for short term performance. Lastly, another thing that my mixture does that I only learned about later from professional artists. The three ingredients combined together to form a polyurethane addictive that makes the paint more resilient. This is something that professional artists use all the time to make their paints work better and become stronger. But don't take my word for it, do a test with the other formula and mine. I bet you money the other formula you will get tip drying in about 5 mins.
Hi. Thanks a lot for the share. If possible, could you further explain the amount of retarder used? It is 70% Flow improver 30% Thinner. And then 10% retarder. So if you make 100ml then it means you add 10ml retarder or + 10% volume on top? I am a bit confused with the 70/30/10 "percent"
Hi Rivian, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo(retarder). The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more. So you add 90% liquid and 10% retarder=100
Hi Jerry, the formula works on Vallejo Model Color but the ratio is different. I recommend 80/20, 80% thinner mixture to 20%paint. If you look at my Banshee build, I airbrush model color to paint the kit.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 got it, use 80% of your thinner formula to 20% paint. Watched your banshee video and a few more, learned a lot in a short amount of time! Glad I found your channel.
Another question, can you apply automotive polish over Vallejo paints to achieve a high gloss shine similar to what others do over lacquer and enamels? Thanks.
Hi John, I have never tried automotive polish on acrylic paints. So can’t say….but for a high gloss finish, you can use the ultimate modeling high shine. There are also other similar products that do the same thing. Are you building a car model? Thus the high gloss finish?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the response. Yes, I am mucking around somewhat on a cheap Tamiya Porsche trying out an airbrush for the first time. Not doing particular well at the moment. Would you have a link for the ultimate shine, please? Thanks for the help.
@@johncater7861 here is the link to the Ultimate Weathering products:www.umpretail.com/ I am also including a link to their how to video. I know a lot of car modelers use this but there are other high shine products as well. I only build military kits so never had to use high shine before.ruclips.net/video/PT0J7b36_Sk/видео.htmlsi=an2wpEfmvZvhqY_z
Daniel, the 350 is a good airbrush. I recommend you look at the Paasche VL, it is a siphon feed double action airbrush. But you can use it as a single action airbrush like the 350. It has a roller in-front of the trigger that makes it into a single action. The good thing is about the VL is that it has different options for the needle sizes so it gives you versatility. Plus, the VL is super cheap! You can grab one for 25 -- 30 dollars and it is a tank and will last for a long time.
Hi, I have a question... I am new to the airbrush. If I am using acrylics and backfilling, and each session isn't very long, after how many painting sessions should I thoroughly clean my airbrush? I want to take good care of this thing, and have zero experience. Thank you so much! Your video has been very helpful!
Hey, so I am gonna drive cleaning airbrushes into two categories. Simple clean and through clean. Simple clean is cleaning your airbrush everytime you use your airbrush. Through clean, you should do once a month just to be on the safe side. I have a video in my channel titled "Airbrush tips and tricks" recommend you check out that out for cleaning techniques. Hope this helps!
Gregory, I made a video on how to airbrush Vallejo primers. I do not recommend using any thinner mixture with primers. It increases the drying time. I mix in "Future" instead...not sure if you are in the US or Europe, I believe it is called "Klear" in Europe. Mix future with Vallejo primers and this will make the primer go hard in about 20 mins. You can start sanding without the primer rolling up on itself.
Hi, really appreciated this video, I have not try out the formula yet, but it will be on my next step on my journey of learning airbrushing. I am a little confused on the formula though: So 70% Flow Improver + 30% Thinner = 100%, how do we calculate the 10% Retarder? Is it 10% of the previous mixture? Or it is rather 70% + 30% + 10%? Like 7 drops of Flow, 3 drops of Thinner and then 1 drop of Retarder? Many Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Hey glad you like the video! I didn’t explain the formula mathproperly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
Hi, will try this mixture, I already use an aproxima-te formule, however I don’t have the vallejo reterder, but the ak one! The one with a turtle in the label, do you think this is similar?
@@brunolopes9900 hi, it should be alright as long as the retarder is still good. Retarder does go bad after some time. If it’s really hard to squeeze out. Then it might be bad and will not work.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196yeah. The one from ak is actually way more líquid. It’s not a paste like the Vallejo one. I’ll do the mix and let you know how it goes
Hi, yes. Model Color is formulated for brush painting. So it has much more pigment and less carrier liquid. I have a video on how to airbrush Model color using the thinner mixture. I recommend 80/20 thinner mixture to paint.
Hey, I was just watching (again) your video and I heard you mentioned the Hataka paints. I was searching yesterday on YT for videos related to these paints cause I'm interested in using them on my spitfire build but didn't find any thorough/useful (at least what I define thorough/useful) video. I really liked the accuracy of these colors and the wide range Hataka offers. Do you have any tips to give me on their acrylics - Red line like, with what thinners they work best, ratio, airbrush needle and psi. Tbh my airbrush is a very basic,cheap "all in one" kit and doesn't go above 15psi, at 21psi it turns off automatically I think. Thank you very much in advance!
Hi, yes I can give you tips on Hataka Red line. So I tested with my thinner mixture (the one in this video) a while back. The mixture in my video works on all water based acrylics With the red line, I did 60:40 thinner to paint ratio at around 18psi. They worked really well at that range and thinning. Hope this helps!
Really enjoyed the video. My go to paint is MRP but I want to switch to acrylics because of the fumes. Have you had any luck with Ammo by MIG paints? I like tho color selection but I just can't get them to airbrush.
Jay, glad you liked the video. My go to paints were the Hataka orange line lacquers. There smell was just to much for me. I have used Ammo paints but it was before I created my formula. But at the time, I was never able to get them to work right. I might have to pick up a bottle and do some testing. Bring that Vallejo and Ammo paints are very similar….I think formula might work on Ammo paints.
DS, glad the video is helpful to you. Funny thing, the most questions I get are airbrushing. So I’m working on an airbrushing video for beginners. So look out for that video in about 2 weeks. But as far as your question; yes I recommend primer. The primer helps acrylics stick, helps find any flaws, and makes the paint uniform.
@@alexfly01 hi yes, all you need to do is add in an acrylic gloss. When I want to make my paint glossy I add in a drop or two of Future or I will use Alclad Aqua gloss. I thin the paint with my formula, then add in a drop or two of gloss. Mix it together. Don’t add to much gloss or the paint will be runny. Lastly, when airbrushing gloss paint…reduce the air pressure to 12-15 psi.
I am 66 and just retired. I am doing scale model aircraft. W.W.2. Thank you so much your mixture really helped me plus improved the painting. One question if I may...When weathering and using washes do I gloss coat over the acrylic paint job first then dry and then apply the wash to bring out panel lines and rivits.
Hi Woody, glad you liked the video. As far as your question, yes you must apply a gloss coat and let it dry, then add the decals (gloss coat makes decaling easier), then after decaling you can add another light gloss to protect the decals (if required). Then you can add a wash to bring out the panel lines.
Doing my best not to launch all my Vallejo paints and get stabby with my airbrush needle this afternoon!..🤬🤬 I’ll give this mix a go when the Valium has kicked in and see if my sanity will return.
Magnus, if you plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon. Then there shouldn’t be a problem. But if you leave the bottle sitting with the flow improver inside, eventually it will separate the paint pigment from the carrier liquid and you won’t be able to airbrush the paint anymore.
Tried this formula with 50/50 for the metal colors. Tried at 20psi, with .3mm tip, but I still kept getting dry tip. I need to wipe down the needle pretty often to keep the flow going. Do I need to thin it even further?
Hi Red, do not use this formula with Vallejo Metal colors. It will make them very tacky. Best way to airbrush Vallejo Metal color is to use Tamiya x-22 at 50/50 and lower psi at 12-15. If watch my other videos, I do a full build of a P-51 using Vallejo Metal colors.
Your other vids that use the metal colors mention to use just the flow improver for the new formula, which I have. I'll use just the flow improver since I already have that, and see how it goes. @@arewethereyetmodeling2196
@@redbones01flow improver definitely helps! But after testing I found that Tamiya X-20a works best. Do a test with both and see which works for you the best. Good luck!
Hi Sean, I make a big batch and store it into 17ml bottles (I have like 7 of those bottles) and use it when I need. The mixture holds up just fine. I found a bottle I had forgotten about from 5 plus years ago and the mixture still was good.
Hey, yes you can use a big needle setup, .5 or .7. Just make your paint is thinned properly and psi is good (bigger needles you typically don't need as much psi, keep that in mind) But to be honest, you really won't need it. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 build, I did that entire kit using a .2mm needle. Smaller needle gives you more precise control and it is better to small sections than large. I have noticed that when people use bigger needles they tend to flood the paint. So just be aware of that. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196thank you, appreciate it! Could you give me email or something to ask for advice... I don't want to ruin your video with my rookie questions.... 🙂 Thank you in advance!
Dr, I use 20 psi and my paint is thinned at 60% paint to 40% thinner. Sometimes I will do 50/50 paint to thinner mixture. A lot depends on your airbrush and it's settings. Start with 20 psi and 60/40 paint to thinner ratio and go from there.
Patrice, I would not recommend using the formula for the resin varnishes. It will make them dry much slower and make them tacky. To thin the Resin Varnishes, I recommend using Vallejo Thinner only at 50/50 ratio at about 15psi. Hope this helps!
Good evening. 70+30+10=110…so is it 70%+30%+10 drops? Thank you! My grandson (AJ) & I are working together through WWII model aircraft building. Unfortunately…we purchased Vallejo Air, Model Color and Game Color. We can airbrush the V-Air right OOTB. The MC and GC we can’t airbrush no matter what we do. If we thin it enough to spray, it’s colored water… Paasche with .38mm at 15-20 psi. We’re going to purchase the V materials to make your home-brew. MAN I hope we can make it work. We spend much more $ and grandma is going to…. Thanks. Your videos are e x c e l l e n T!
Paw and AJ, I hope you enjoy your build! Yes 70+30+10 is correct. If you look at my Model color airbrushing video I have a ratio for airbrushing Model Color and should same for Game Color. Also, what Paasche airbrush are you using? If it’s a siphon feed you might need to increase air pressure a bit. To see if the paint is ready to airbrush, use the back flush method. Look for bubbles like you get when you blow into chocolate milk. If you need anymore assistance, email me directly and I’ll be happy to help anyway I can. My email: davisstudent25@gmail.com
New to airbrushing; have cheap airbrush which seems to work fine; thin Vallejo with water; spraying from a distance and slowly; not happy with the finish but particularly disappointed with the fact that the Vallejo paints don't "harden up" like gloss enamels. As I continue to work on the model, I am left with finger and other marks which cannot be removed. Most of the paints are flat. At what point would you add gloss varnish? Would the gloss varnish harden up the paint?
John, if you only learn one thing about acrylics…let it be this: never ever thin acrylics with water for airbrushing. Water thins acrylics but also causes the binding agent to have less adhesion. This is why you’re leaving finger prints in the paint. What might help if you have a hair dryer, use that to dry the paint and that might help. Then add in a gloss varnish for weathering. Be careful with any masking as the paint will be weak. I recommend in the future you prime your model and use my thinning formula in the video and you will get fantastic results!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the response. The model was primed - again thinned with water. Next attempt shall follow your rules and not be such a cheapskate.
@@johncater7861 no worries, you don't know what you don't know. You didn't mention in your original message you thinned the primer with water as well. Use the thinning formula to thin the primer in the future, it will help the primer (assuming your using Vallejo primer or Badger primer) flow and not tip dry. Now having said that, you can use water to thin your Vallejo paints for brush painting. When painting small parts, thinning the paint with water (slight bit of water) will help flow the paint better and a trick gunpla/figure modelers use to create variations. I use this technique to paint my cockpits.
Very helpful, but the percentages are confusing as others have said. Rather than percentages would using drops be a better way to understand the formula? For example, 7 drops of flow improver plus 3 drops of thinner and then 1 drop of retarder. which is 10 percent of the base mixture. Is that correct?
Hey so sorry for my belated reply. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense? But more importantly, the reason I did percentages was that people wanted to mix large batches and not just do one at a time.
I cannot get my Vallejo paint to stick to my model. Even air brushing it over Mr. Surfacer primer it still comes off with my finger nail. Please help!!
Hi so can expand further what you mean? And as far as coming off with finger nails. All paints will come off if you scratch them. Once you are finished painting it is a good idea to seal in the paint to prevent that.
Thanks for the updated video.... very helpful information. Picky question regarding the thinning mixture. You state: 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, and 10% Retarder (total 110%). Is that correct, or did you mean 70 / 20 / 10 or 60 / 30 / 10 for the mixture (total 100%)?
@@bryanjensen6095 so easiest way is, of the liquid stuff: 70% flow improver and 30% thinner (do not use the cleaner, make sure it’s the thinner), and 10% added to the total of liquid of the gooey medium retarder.
Hi thank you for the video and formula receipt. Does this work with 3rd gen acrylics by AK interactive? I have terrible time with those (clogging completely etc). Also is it possible to mix AK thinner, AK flowimproover and Vallejo retarder medium?
Hi, so yes it does. I created a Facebook group for acrylic users and one of our members tested Ak 3rd gen with the mixture formula. He was able to get pencil lines with the paint. His post is in the group feed. He did one issue, he used 2 different airbrushes, one worked great the other didn't. A fellow modeler has sent me some AK 3rd paints, I am going to do a test with them and post a video soon (I hope). As far as using AK thinner, flow improver, vallejo retarder. I don't know....but I think it should work. The only issue I know what AK thinner is that you cannot use it with Vallejo paints, it has an ingredient that ruins the Vallejo paints. Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 fantastic, thans for your reply! I will try it next week so I will post the result here after. One more question - I got the retarder and it is really thick (like honey) - how do you measure it? I can’t imagine to put it in the pipette.
@@davidriha3125 so if it’s really thick and foggy it has gone bad. Don’t use it, retarder will go bad by itself fairly quickly if not kept in the right conditions. Grab a new bottle, it should come off pretty easy.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 So, i’ve just tried your formula for AK interactive 3rd gen acrylics with white crown bottlehead (formula mixed of AK interactive flow improver (black label with orange AK logo), AK 3rd gen thinner (white label, not the one with orange cap and blue water on label) and Vallejo retarder medium). The paint/formula mixture roughly 50:50. It worked on 100%! Perfect coverage, no tip drying and even though my trigger control was just awful (I even let the trigger lose directly from back position) there was no clog no tip dry nothing. So I can confirm that your formula is working with ak 3rd gen acrylics. I cannot explain how this helped me. You literally saved my hobby since I was spraying gunze laquers and it is not possible anymore due to new family members. Thank you and cheers!
Hi, you can use this formula with Vallejo Model Color. I have a video on airbrushing model color on my channel. More importantly, you can use this formula with any “water-based” acrylic paint (Ammo, AK, Army painters, etc). Hope this helps!
Well, it's a major game changer for me. I have owned an airbrush for many years, but I have seldom used it because of difficulties with using it. After following your recommendations, all that is in the past. Thank you a million for your video. I will post a picture of my model once I finish it.
I am so happy to hear! Glad my videos have helped you start loving airbrush. I have created a Facebook group, please feel free to post your pictures there!
Thank you, thank you, I’ve tried your combination of thinner etc and for the first time ever I can now airbrush Vallejo paints with confidence. Many many thanks, I will recommend your video to every modeller I know as a log of us struggle with these paints.
Glad I could help! Post pics abs videos of your builds.
great video, and great solution 70% airflow 30% thinner. you are a life saver
Glad you like the video. But don't forget the retarder!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Doesn't your formula add up to 110%? Maybe the change from 10 drops retarder to 10% retarder needs more consideration? 🪣
@@tbelcher01
I'm 73 years old. You just taught this old dog a new trick ! Thanks so much for the update.
Oh, and you have some really nice builds there. Keep up the great work ! 😊
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it.
…a key thing you’ve mentioned…make sure you have small bubbles on the backflush which could easily rise up…if not, that particular paint is still too thick…just add a couple of drops of thinner at a time until you get those small bubbles rising up from the cup as your video shows. 👍
just want to say a big thanks to this video. I always had problems with spraying the paints. After few seconds big mess, no paint, tip dry etc etc. All fun gone with airbrushing because of that. So the hobby was still for a few years..... The fun was gone.
Found this video few days back and it triggered me. So i had to try this. Grabbep an empty bottle, made the mix. Put 5 drops in the airbrush, 6 drops of paint and it worked awesome!!!
The fun is back! No more annoying/fear to paint models after building. So i need to clean the bench now with unfinished models etc :P Also need to try if it works with the vallejo primers. That was also giving me some issues after few minutes of using.
So big thanks again!!! 👍
Glad to hear that it helped you enjoy airbrushing again! For Vallejo primers, I recommend adding in "Future" or if you are in Europe, it is called "Klear". It helps the the primer go rock hard in 30 minutes and makes it easily sandable. If you use my thinner mixture with vallejo primers, make sure to wait 24 hours before sanding. But to be honest, I have moved on from Vallejo primers to Badger primers. Badger primers thinned with my mixture, airbrush beautifully and go rock hard in 30 minutes. Then you can sand them easily!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Will do some testing with the primers :) Used the black primer today but after a few minutes of use it clogged the nozzle. So had to clean that first to prime the other models :P
You are spot on here. I had terrible trouble with Vallejo acrylics initially. Did exactly what you said and perfect results. I thin 50:50 and add 10% retarder, 23 psi in my Iwata Eclipse. I actually put on 14 coats of paint on one model and they went on so thin that it looks like only 1 coat was applied - no detail lost. Excellent video 👍👍
David, glad the mixture worked well for you! And you got it exactly, the mixture helps the paints airbrush well and lay down without hiding the details. You can create different effects this way and get fantastic results with acrylics.
Just found this video (no idea why i had not earlier), your mix of flow improver/thinner is an absolute godsend. Have always found the Vallejo paints to be very hit and miss, some would work great as is and other not. Ive now got alot more confidence with using these paints. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
@@CYPRUS008044 glad you like the video and the mixture formula!
Thanks for the video. Thanks for the formulas. Have tried both and they work great! Adding the Future to the mix also saves a step and I can start decaling as soon as I let the paint/mixture/future dry. Thanks again for doing your videos! Tom
Thomas, I do the same thing by adding a drop or two if satin varnish. Future is becoming like gold, so I use it sparingly ha.
I’ve had some great results using Vallejo paints and than next time I can’t get it to play nice at all. Your video has really helped and I just wanted to say a thank you. Looking forward to seeing more help videos
Glad you like the video and it was helpful! Next video I’m planning to advance techniques with Vallejo Metal colors. So be on the look out for that.
As a complete AB noob trying to figure out which paints to get, this is super useful. And starting with water based paints should simplify things for me too.
Glad I could help you on your airbrushing journey!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196One question. What do you use to clean the airbrush when using this thinner mixture? Alcohol?
I’m cheap and kind to save money ha. So I use a product called “simple green”. It’s a natural house hold cleaner that goes for $4 in Walmart. It eats acrylic paints. If you watch “airbrush tips and tricks” video, that is what I use to clean out my airbrush.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 hahaha ok. I know simple green
Very detailed guide i think i'll give another try for this paints. Thank you. I like airplanes in the end of the video, neat paint job.
Glad you liked the video!
This works perfectly!
Thank you so much for sharing. I've struggled with Vallejo paints drying in the tip so quickly and this just completely eliminated the problem. It also works just as well with the Model Color range as well. I even used it (and your techniques) to thin down and airbrush the thick craft/artist paints. Worked perfectly.
Nigel, I’m glad to hear it worked for you! My only goal was to help my fellow modelers have better results with acrylic. Good to see it’s working:)
You Changed my life! OK, that's a little dramatic, but this tip has restored my faith in Vallejo paints. Thanks for sharing your expertise, and relieving the suffering of newbies like myself.
Haha glad I could help. That’s the point, to help other modelers.
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you like my channel. Feel free to reach out any time!
Awesome. Your formula works great in a hot and humid environment 🙂
Glad, you liked the video!
Thank you so much for sharing this information; I found it to be extremely helpful.
Glad you found the video useful!
Dude…THANK YOU. I found your video today, and on a whim I tried your method. Totally works!! Well, like 98% works as I probably need to do some minor adjustments. But still, I can see this will save me from ditching all the Vallejo Air products that have frustrated me for months!
Thanks again!
Mike, glad I could help. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
Very useful update from your prior video. I started using your mix (but using AK retarder as I do not have the Vallejo one), and it works perfectly. Great tutorial! I do also mix my colors in the airbrush cup and never had problems.
It is just works. Thanks for sharing this great idea.
@@igorrabinovich3386 glad to hear it’s working for you!
Found your video while doing some research into mixing the various types of Vallejo paints. EXCELLENT technique and it helped me fix a few problems. Recently I was working on a Star Trek model and laid down a nice layer of primer. Then I used a mixture of Vallejo Mecha off-white and Mecha Model Air White to get a very light gray. I had HORRIBLE fisheye and spotting. After doing some tests I found that it was mixing the two types of paints. After I decided to just go with the Mecha Off-White as my primary color it went on fine. Unfortunately, there's some kind of hardener and varnish in the Mecha line that made masking and painting over it an absolute nightmare, even sanding. Something in the paint made the masking tape not providing clean lines. Same tape I've used for MONTHS on half a dozen models. No problem until I used the Mecha paint.
Sorry for rambling. I loved your video and just wanted to share a tidbit, maybe see if you had the same experience.
Glad you liked the video! And Hello to a fellow Trekkie. I can't say I have had the same problem as you. I have been able to mix Vallejo Mecha paints with other Mecha paints, with no problems. I have also been able to mix Mecha paints with other Vallejo paint brands (except for the premium brands). Just my guess....but the bottles you have might have gone bad.
The only time I have had a problem is, when I purchased several bottles of Vallejo paint from a fellow modeler who added in paint stirring balls. But he used the wrong type and the stirring balls rusted slightly. This caused all the bottles to go bad. I could not use any of the paints for airbrush or even brush painting.
Other then that, I have never had any issues with Vallejo paints of any kind.
Very nice, and informative video.
Thanks, a great introduction to thinning paint and resolving all the issues I have had previously. Only wish I had seen it sooner and so economical with the paint, amazing.
Glad you liked the video!
Excellent explanation and walk through! I've only got the flow improver and paint at the moment. I plan to attempt w/o the thinner and retarder (my first airbrushing attempt at that) but its comforting to know that the optimum recipe and instructions are here if I'm not happy w/the results. Thanks again!
@@jalowery1246 good luck! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
I paint straight out other bottles no problem
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I went ahead and ordered the thinner and used the 70/30 ratio for a first try on some cardboard. I figured: Why not make it easy on myself and do it right the 1st time. The application seemed to go well. Thanks again for the interesting and informative content.
@ do you mean 70/30 pain to thinner mixture? Try 50/50 paint to thinner mixture. You will get much better atomization
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 i was referring to the dilution recipe (70% flow improver 30% thinner). Side note: I just learned, from one of your other videos, the difference between Vallejo Air and Vallejo colors. I'm using the colors, which seems thicker, and as such I assume, need more thinner?
Tried this mix and it works perfectly. Thank you.
Glad to hear it worked for you! Please post pics of your build in the Facebook group.
great help - thank you - ive changed my way of thinning my paints - work great.
Hey, I’m glad to hear.
Incredible video, this helps a lot!
Glad you liked the video!
Love Vallejo air for spray painting way easier to clean up than tamiya
1. Extremely helpful and informative for a newbie like me. 2. Your cat is adorable!
1. Thank you, glad you liked the video. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. 2. She is adorable and spoiled....so a typical cat haha.
I have always tried the more thinners than flow improver... I will give it a go
Give it a go, feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
Thanks for a great video, im new to airbrushing and this really helps me :)
Glad you like the video and welcome to airbrushing. You will really love it!
Great tutorial. One of best video about it. What should be the dilution for airbrushing model color and vallejo primer. 50/50 or other ?
Sergio, glad you liked the video! For Vallejo Model Color, I have another video on my channel. Recommend you check that video out. As far as Vallejo Primer, I recommend not using the thinner mixture. It increases the drying time…which is not something I recommended. To get the best results from Vallejo primer, I recommend adding in “Future” floor polish. It makes the primer go rock hard in 30 mins and also makes it sandable! But to be honest, I have moved on to Badger Stynylrez primers. They are amazing! They go rock hard and super easy to sand. I thin the badger primers with the thinner solution (60:40) at 25psi. And you get good results and a nice smooth finish!
A very useful update, thank you
Glad you liked it.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thank you for the overview. Can you please demonstrate the proper way to spray, if you have larger model sections to paint, for example when building the DKM U-BOAT 1/48 SCALE. THANK YOU
Hey, I am glad you like the video. So I didn't know what a 1/48 DKM U-boat was and had to look it up. Wow, that is a big model, haha. Unfortunately, I don't have a model that big to do a video on. I mostly build model 1/48 airplanes and 1/35 tanks....which are much smaller than the U-boat. I am currently working on a 1/48 Skyraider and that is a pretty big model by airplane standards. Hopefully that might give you some insight. What I will say is, I used repair large paint works. I would recommend a .5mm or .7mm needle airbrush. I would go in section and assemble the painted parts separately. For such a big model, you might want to look at a siphon feed airbrush because it can hold much more paint. Look at a Paasche VL, airbrush artists use it for large paint projects and you can pick it up super cheap. I hope this is helpful. If you need more direct help, email me at davisstudent25@gmail.com
Your mix also works very well with Life Color water base acrylic paints…which are usually a challenge. I really like Life Color military colors; particularly, Ral.
Yes! The mixture works on Life Colors and Aeromaster as well. I find several people who use Life Colors really like aeromaster as well. It also works on Mission Models.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thank you for always taking the time to comment with great advice 👍
This is great stuff! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great tutorial!
Thank you so much for the kind words. I’m glad you liked the video.
Great going on and hardly any tip dry but I noticed that after drying, if I have to mask areas to paint another colour on the same piece, the original paint is susceptible to flaking and damage. That’s happening with a good primer as well. I’ll keep on experimenting with the ratios but I think it’s solved more problems than it’s created.
Hmm, can you share your mixture make up and thinning ratios? Because you shouldn't have any issue with applying tape over the paint in just 15 mins. If you see my 1/32 Bf--109, 48th bf-109, and F-86 video. I taped over the kits in just 15 mins no problem.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196Thanks for the swift reply. 70% flow improver 71.562. 30% thinner 71.161. 10% retarder 70.597 These are the newer Vallejo bottles with the all white labels. Slightly more paint than thinner. Ten drops to twelve drops in a Sparmax Max-4 at 25-30 psi.
Now it’s entirely possible that the primer deteriorated somewhat with handling. I’ve had to measure, assemble without glue and disassemble the cockpit of this model a few times to measure and test fit light boxes and LEDs. I tried a virgin piece of styrene that I lightly sanded before spraying the model parts and this has not suffered flaking or damage in a similar way.
My instinct is to remove the paint and start again with a surface primer.
@@lucaviggiani2189 the formula breakdown is fine. But for best atomization thin the paint 50/50 and drop your psi to 18-20 psi (25-30 is way to much for acrylics). As far as the primer, what primer did you use and how did you thin it?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanks. I was taking the psi wrongly from another tutorial that was spraying Model Air neat from the bottle except a few drops of flow improver. The 50ml bottles I got from Amazon have a tiny droplet size which may have affected my ratio.
Primer is almost always Tamiya fine surface primer straight from the rattle can.
Great video and nice presentation. This will be very helpful. That thinner medium is great stuff. I use it as the thinning agent for brush painting instead of thinner or water. It seems to thin the paint without making it too transparent. I also add a small drop of retarder to the mix. My first airbrush was a Badger and I still have an old 100LG that I use from time to time. I just ordered a Badger Sotar from the sale last week to try out for mottling. Like you I have a lot of airbrushes but for 75 dollars I could not pass it up. Keep up the great work!
Scott, I have a Badger Sotar with the fine needle for detail work. It is a great airbrush and you will love it! Glad you liked the video.
Thanks for this. I have only started airbrushing and can’t even get paint to come out of the gun. There is apparently some evidence that Revell Aqua paint is incompatible with my particular brush which might prove to be the case but I was surprised to find that such problems actually existed. It’s not exactly shouted from the rooftops by manufacturers but once you voice the problems they suddenly admit that this can occur. Did you experiment with other acrylics or was Vallejo your first and only choice? I’m all on board with not being solvent based by the way which also adds another restriction on paint choices but well worth the compromise in my opinion. Great video well explained and absolute gold for someone like me just starting out.
Hey glad you like the video! And I am confused what you mean by "Revell Aqua Paint" is incompatible with your airbrush. Pretty much all paint is usable in an airbrush if you properly thin in. More importantly, on my facebook group post. Those who use Revell Aqua paints have used this thinner mixture to airbrush paints. You should have the same results. But in regards to your question, I have tested this mixture on :Vallejo model color, model air, game color, game air, Ammo by mig original acrylic paints (currently testing them on the Atom range), Ak 1st gen and Ak 3rd gen, Mission Model Paints, Army Painters, Humbrol acrylics, and a few others.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 quite simply anything with a higher viscosity than plain water won’t pass through the airbrush! Someone else has already confirmed that they too had this same issue with this brand of paint used with the Gaahleri Mobius .3 and Gaahleri have now confirmed that some paints are less compatible with this model. Like you I find this difficult to understand but certainly all of my attempts so far have proved fruitless. I will use another colour and see if this makes a difference as my original paint is Alumnium which I suspect might contain metallic solids. I also have a single colour of Vallejo to try so my plan is to road test a few options and see if any of them work. Ultimately I can return the airbrush and buy an alternative of course but I would very much like to understand what’s going on before changing. It did occur to me that I should use one with a thicker needle size but most review videos would indicate this is not necessary? Thanks for your input all the same. 👍
Friday update! After testing several options I have found I’m ok as long as I don’t use the Revell thinners!!! If I thin with water it all works a treat. Use the thinners and the job stops instantly. Who knew eh? No doubt there is some clever reason but you can rest assured the remaining bottle of thinners will go down the sink. Can’t believe that cost me over 4 hours of grief. I’ll probably have a go with your recipe as plain water is not really best practice for the sake of the airbrush. Thanks again.
I just mixed up a batch for airbrushing Model Air products with my Harder-Steenbeck Infinity (.15 nozzle/needle) using the ratio you recommend. I used a 10 ml glass jar since I have a lot of them. marked the graduations for 70% Flow Improver - 30% Airbrush Thinner.
Then another mark for an additional 10% of the TOTAL of the TWO previous mixtures once COMBINED, for the Retarder Medium. I have the very same three products you used as well... same "part numbers" even.
After shaking for several minutes, is it common that the final mix should be hazy with millions of extremely tiny micro-bubbles? I couldn't tell very well with your squirt bottle, but it looked pretty clear from what I can tell.
My retarder medium is probably 5 years old and spent a year in a detached garage -hot summers - cold winters. It is a bit thicker than Elmer's glue.
In the 20 minutes since I began typing this, it has cleared somewhat, but I will shake it I
Thanks for making this video, I really would like to use my Infinity more, especially with that .15 nozzle for fine work, but the tip dry at various air pressures is no fun!
Cheers!
Hi Djhaurt, yes it can be a bit hazy at first with lots of bubbles. But it will become clear as it rests. You should be good to go and can start painting. I use my H&S .15 and .2mm for airbrushing my models. If you check out my Skyraider, Bf-109, and F-86 video. You can see how I go about painting using smaller needle set up.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you so much for clearing that up! (pun definitely intended).
I did watch your F-86 video you recommended. I did the 1/48 Hasegawa F-86-F-30 a while back. I will also vouch for Flory's washes.
It was a pretty good kit and who doesn't like the Sabre?
I will absolutely check out your other videos and subscribe.
Thanks again for you reply!
Cheers
Nice!
Glad you like it!
Great video!
What do you need to do to ‘adjust for temperature’?
I live in Singapore so it is almost always 60-70% plus humidity and 28-32 degrees C. What do I need to adjust for this climate inline with your comments?
And lastly, the two spoons at the end of your demo - was it that the first one was incorrectly sprayed and the second is the correct technique?
Thanks 🙏🏻
Richard, glad you like the video. In regards to your question...you should be fine mixing 50/50 thinner mixture to paint at 60-70% humidity and 28-32 degrees C. But you might need to add in more thinner if it goes to 38 degrees C. I live in Virginia and in spring/summer we have similar temperatures and humidity. I have never had any issues.
And yes, the spoons at the end...the first spoon was incorrectly sprayed and the second spoon correctly sprayed. Unfortunately, RUclips removed the audio has I had "copyright" music in the background. But keep in mind that was un-primed spoons. Over primer, you can go a bit heavier.
Enjoyed this and I'd like to give it a try. Would it work with other acrylic paints? I would have thought the larger volume would have been thinners too?
Hey, yes the formula works on pretty much all water-based acrylics. I have tested on Ammo original acrylics (you can see the video on my channel), ak 1st Gen and 3rd Gen, mission models, humbrol acrylics, and more. Currently I’m testing it on the new Atom paint range.
Thanks so much 👍
You're very welcome!
So I bought badger Grey acrylic primer, vallejo airbrush thinner, flow improver and retarder. I am wondering if I need the future in the mix for priming? Thanks for all the airbrush info!
Hey, so you can do two things to make Vallejo primer more stronger, more airbrush-able, and sand-able. One is to add in Future…but since Future is more expensive than gold…that’s not the best option anymore haha.
The second thing you can do to get the best results with Vallejo primers is to use the thinner mixture in my video. It will make the primer airbrush better, less clogging, smoother finish, and most importantly you can sand the primer after about an hour. I recommend 70/30 primer to thinner mixture at 20-25 psi (based on your airbrush).
I also have a video on acrylic primers on my channel. I would recommend checking it out
I am going to try out your thinner mix with my Stynylrez primer. One friendly critique when you were spraying the red at about the 7:00 mark saying there was no tip dry- I didn’t see any starting/stoping. Wouldn’t running non stop not allow the tip to dry? But I am hopeful your recipe will help my priming - thanks for the video!
@@fonkyjoe hey, so I gave a video on my channel where I use my thinner mixture with Stynylrez. It works well! Because it allows the primer to follow better. So definitely do it.
Regarding your comment for the 7:00 mark. I didn’t show the full video, I had to edit the video and speed it up because it was about 5 mins long. So I did stop many times and restart.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I tried the thinner mix with Stynylrez today - was a little nervous as to how thin it was, but it worked great- no tip dry issues either. Thanks for this!
@@fonkyjoe awesome! Glad it worked for you. Just remember to give it 50 mins to dry since it’s thinner.
Great tips on Vallejo Air paints. Can the same technique be used with Vallejo Model paints?
I converted a spare room in the attic to my modeling room. This works great most of the year. However, i live in New England and it gets pretty cold up there without heat. Because of this i have to move my modeling to the kitchen and take with me what i need for the current project.
My question is will the acrylics i have stored up there survive the cold winter?
Hey, just read your message. Yes, same techniques for Vallejo Model Color (I think that is what you are asking about). I have a video on how to use the mixture formula on Model Color on my channel. I recommend checking it out. One thing to note is to give the Model Color more time to dry before masking over. With Vallejo Model air, I can mask over in about 15-20 mins. I would give Model Color at least 1 hour.
Regarding the temperature question....you want to store acrylics room temperature if possible or at the very least try not to go below 55 degrees (that has been my experience). If they get to cold, the paint becomes a chalky mess. Hope that helps!
Great info, thanks so much
@@mkmac3 glad I can help. Feel free to reach out anytime if you have any questions.
Thanks for the formula. First time trying it works great. Can you do one or have you done one on spraying vallejo primer and varnish
David, I have a video on how to best spray Vallejo primers, check it out. And as far as Varnishes, I think Vallejo varnishes with Vallejo thinner at 50/50.
Hi there, I've recently started airbrushing and found this very informative. Thanks for the video! I've had a lot of issues with the paint being very splattered and could not figure out what was going on. Will definetely experiment with air pressure and different thinner-paint mixture ratios. I do have 1 question, you mentioned good trigger control over paint and airflow. The paint part I understand, do you play around with the airflow during airbrushing? With the trigger? I have a H&S evolution so it is possible to also control the airflow. What I've been doing so far is just pressing the trigger down all the way for airflow and then adjusting only the paint flow.
Shadow, glad you liked the video and it was helpful for you. Regarding your question: yes, you must play around with the airflow via the airbrush trigger. Here is some general guidance that might help you. The closer you are to the surface of the model, the less air and paint you want. But as you further away you want to increase the paint and airflow.
Great tutorial and very well explained. Thank you for sharing - Subd!
Thank you! Glad you liked the video and I subd to your channel as well.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanks !!
Great Video. Really informative. Thank you so much! Three questions:
1) You mention in the video “controlling for temperature”. Could you extend on this a little bit? I am working in a rather cold basement which might be around 10 to 15 degrees Celsius in winter and was wondering if this would change your recommendations?
2) Can your recommendations be transferred to other acrylic paints such as Ak or Mr Aqueous?
3) What about spraying Vallejos Varnish (I still got them flying around here)?
Thank you so much in advance! Cheers
Hey, glad you liked the video! Regarding the your questions:
1) So there are 3 parts to airbrushing: PSI, Paint thinning, and Temperature. Temperature isn't really major unless you in extreme areas. When it is colder, typically you don't need to thin your paint as much. For hotter temperature you will most likely need to thin more. For 10 to 15 degrees, the paint will still spray but you probably won't need to thin your paint as much. I would say try 60/40 or even 70/30 paint to thinner at 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. My other recommendation would be to let your air compressor run for 5 mins before airbrushing to get everything warmed up a bit.
2) You can use this mixture on all water-based acrylics. So if you are talking about Ak 1st or 3rd gen water-based acrylics then yes (I have tested this mixture with both). Mr. Aqueous is an acrylic paint but not a water-based acrylic. So you can't use it with that.
3) For varnishes I don't recommend using the mixture. They have some stuff in them that makes them sticky. If you are using Vallejo premium flat or gloss, thin it with vallejo thinner at 50/50 and 12-15 psi. Light coats. and this is very important.....for both of them, let them cure for AT least 24 hours.
Hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions.
Finally, when things are just right, you mentioned "adjusted for temperature". However this is never explained (or else I missed it). I followed the thinning and air pressure adjustments - what compensation do you do for temperature?
This one is not as big of a factor and so I didn't go into it as much. Temperature affects paint (all types of paint) but that is really more if you live in a very hot place or very cold place. If you live in a moderate climate (say between 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit)....honestly its not something you need to really worry about. It would take to long to type how paint is impacted by temperature...I can send you a video that explains it.
Thank you for the video
Thank you, glad you like the video.
Thank you for uploading a lot of informational video which helps us who are just starting to get into the hobby. Would like to get your thoughts. does your thinning mixture work with vallejo mecha lineup? would there be a difference of the paint to thinner ratio?
Hi yes it works with mecha line as well! Several modelers have tested it out with the mecha line. I believe that mecha comes in two lines, a ready to airbrush line and brush painting line. For the airbrush line, thin it 50/50. For the brush paint, thin it 80/20 (thinner to paint)
Just stumbled on this video. Great info!! I didn't read through all of the comments, but a question: I thought Model Air didn't have to be thinned? I'll use this on Model Color, which I use a bit more than Model Air.
@@Shooter_FPV thank you, glad you like the video. Yes model air is airbrush ready. But the thing is, paint is tested in a lab with specific conditions. Unless you have those exact conditions in your hobby room…you will always need to adjust your paint to get the best results. No matter the paint.
And yes, the formula works on model color. I have a video on my channel for thinning model color with the mixture formula.
Brilliant video and thanks for sharing.
Few questions if I may, since you have made me thinking of converting from lacquer based paints:
1. What about drying time and paint durability afterwards (are they easily scratched off or prone to have fingerprints on them, handling in general) ?
2. Does the paint "tolerate" the rest of the modelling procedure, like decal softeners, weathering with oils etc?
3. Which varnishes (gloss & flat) do you recommend to use on top of these, vallejo air or something different?
Thank you, glad you liked the video. Regarding your questions,
1) The paints will dry in about 15 minutes. If you look at my other videos, I handle the paints with my bare hands and no gloves on. No issue of leaving finger prints or paint rubbing off, etc. They are fairly scratch resistant....but this is subjective, because how hard are you scratching the paint? But overall handling and drying time is very good. I painted the entire Bf-109 in about 35-40 minutes. That includes black basing and several light main coats.
2) Yes, the paint will tolerate the rest of the modeling procedure if you have a gloss coat on. I use AK extreme Gauzy agent. I let it dry for 15-20 mins and then use enamel washes with no problems what so ever. I know some modelers recommend waiting minimum of 24 hours. I also use the strongest decal setting solution, Solvaset, and the paint holds up just fine.
3) So for my final flat coat, I go with Vallejo Matte Varnish. I personally think it leaves a very nice Matte finish that is not completely a dead flat. I will say if you decide to use the Vallejo Matte, you HAVE TO LET it dry for 24 hours....no exception. I also use to use Tamiya Flat as well, which goes rock hard in 2 hours. For gloss coats for decaling/weathering, I stick with AK Gauzy agent....but before that I use to use Future.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any further questions.
Awesome! Do you know if your mixes/ ratios work well with Vallejo Mecha line?
Yes, they work with all Vallejo paints except with Vallejo Premium....as I haven't tired them yet. With the mecha lines, I believe one line is airbrush ready and the other is made for airbrushing.....if I am remembering correctly. With the airbrush line, do 50/50 thinner to primer. With the brush paint version, 80/20 thinner to paint.
Hi! It was a very good video! I've been trying to blow Vallejo for three years. I have 3 pistols at home, two Chinese and one H&S Ultra. All three blow it badly, they spit, the blowing is rubbish. It's like there are small fluffs in the paint, but not airborne dust. I also tried your recipe, but unfortunately it's the same, even though I blow it with mist. The pistols are clean, over the years I've tried to adjust everything, but it doesn't work, I give up :)
Hi, I’m sorry to hear you’re having issues. Email me, and maybe I can help you figure it out. My email: davisstudent25@gmail.com
Vallejp paints have a congealing problem. If you use a wet pallet, you will notice it immediately. Every time you squirt a fresh bottle, it fights and squirts a congealed snotty bit. I may do this several times before the tip clears up.
I believe the problem is they are putting the paints in the bottles too dry, so the air inside is dry enough to congeal them.I think they put just a little bit of gel media in their mix, which is why it gels rather than just plain drying out hard like most other paints.
I'm experimenting with squeezing them and sucking a few water drops in to see how many drops is needed on average to eliminate that behavior.
And yes, that means that the fancy "dropper bottles" everyone seems to praise are actually a pain in the pertushki for anything other than a wet pallet.
Thank for this video👍 Im new to this and wonder how long i have to wait after a vallejo gloss varnish before i can do wash? I have Both enamel and vallejo wash wich should i use?
Josa, glad you liked the video. In regards to your question, if you are using Vallejo's gloss, you need to wait 24 hours minimum. If you don't wait that long, the gloss coat will start breaking apart. Since I don't like to wait that long, I use AK interactive Guazy Agent. It goes rock hard in about 20-25 minutes. You can apply a wash as soon it goes hard. If you plan to use Vallejo washes, go in small sections and don't wait to long before wiping away the excess. Acrylic washes like Vallejo, once fully dry are more difficult to remove. Enamel washes are easier to remove using odorless mineral spirits but they smell more. I hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanx for the info😊 i Also have Tamiya enamel wash
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 So i can use enamel wash on acrylic paint?
Yep you can use Tamiya enamel wash over acrylics. Just use a gloss coat first. I recommend AK Intermediate Guazy Agent. Spray it on and wait 20 mins. Then apply the Tamiya wash.
I don’t understand the percentage for the retarder. 10% of the total volume? Because 70% flow improver and 30% thinner already adds up to 100%
Hi Andrew, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 what is goo?
If you end up with 100 mls total of thinner and improver, then add 10 mls, or 10 percent medium
@@MastaBorilla i think he means the retarder..
Retarder is not needed IMO, I think ratios are good. My test is how paint drop acts on vertical card.
Very helpfull and good Video
Does this method work with the Vallejo Premium Colors (the mixing formular)
Good question. I’m not sure as I have never tried with the Vallejo Premium paints. I believe it should work as they are acrylic polyurethane paints, and the thinner and flow improver work on polyurethane
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanks, will test it
Awesome video to help modellers switch water based paints. May i ask your thinning ratio when airbrushing Vallejo Model Colors?
Hi Alvin, I have a video on my channel for thinning Vallejo Model Colors and how to brush paint as well. Check it out, I think it might be helpful to you.
How does Vallejo Model Game(?) (not Model air), the one that is for Models but not specifically for airbrush, handle this recipe? The store I bought from said 2/3 airbrush thinner and 1/3 Flow improver.
So I bought 200ml thinner & Flow improver.
And the basic colors in nuance's that fits well on fishing lures.
Have you tried the ratio I read on my paint supplier? It's exactly the same 3 part just change thinner/flow improver and nothing more.
Hi, it works with all Vallejo paint lines (except for the premium line, haven't tested those). So yes it works with Vallejo model game air. I have tested all the various combinations....I tested this recipe for years. The recipe I listed in the video is the best for airbrushing for a long time and no tip drying.
I've seen another video (from person also has decades of experience) that recommended the opposite ratio of 80% thinner and 20% flow improver. I'm wondering if the difference is a matter of preference or if the optimal mix might be dependent on variables such as type of airbrush, humidity or something like that? Or perhaps the exact ratio is not very critical?
Robert, this is a great question. There are numerous mixture formulas out there for Vallejo/ammo, etc. And before I came up with my formula I looked at those other formulas. Here is the key question to ask when you decide which formula you want to use. What are you painting? Yes, you can 80/20 thinner/flow improver to get results. But the problem is, all the other formulas I looked at were short-term solutions. What do I mean by that? You can use the mixture to do short-term airbrushing. And if you are shooting paint rather than airbrushing paint....like Gunpla figure builders do, then these other mixtures work fine. But I go for long periods of time where I need consistent performance....so my goal was to come up with something that would give me consistent results for long long airbrushing sessions. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 video, I airbrush for over 40 mins (built was speed up 2x) with no issues. You will not get that with the other mixtures. I know I tested them. The other benefit of creating a long performing mixture is that it also works very very well for short term performance. Lastly, another thing that my mixture does that I only learned about later from professional artists. The three ingredients combined together to form a polyurethane addictive that makes the paint more resilient. This is something that professional artists use all the time to make their paints work better and become stronger. But don't take my word for it, do a test with the other formula and mine. I bet you money the other formula you will get tip drying in about 5 mins.
Thanks for such a thoughtful reply!
Hi. Thanks a lot for the share. If possible, could you further explain the amount of retarder used?
It is 70% Flow improver
30% Thinner.
And then 10% retarder. So if you make 100ml then it means you add 10ml retarder or + 10% volume on top?
I am a bit confused with the 70/30/10 "percent"
Hi Rivian, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo(retarder). The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more. So you add 90% liquid and 10% retarder=100
Would this ratio work for Vallejo model color as well? Not sure as it is thicker than Vallejo air color. Great video, thanks!
Hi Jerry, the formula works on Vallejo Model Color but the ratio is different. I recommend 80/20, 80% thinner mixture to 20%paint. If you look at my Banshee build, I airbrush model color to paint the kit.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 got it, use 80% of your thinner formula to 20% paint. Watched your banshee video and a few more, learned a lot in a short amount of time! Glad I found your channel.
Excellent Video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Do you know if you can mix flow improver and thinners, I have Vallejo thinner and some Galleria flow improver, would that still work?
@@SB-hg5sq it should. The only time I found it doesn’t work is if the ingredients are old. Retarder for example does go bad no matter the brand.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Ok, thank you.
Another question, can you apply automotive polish over Vallejo paints to achieve a high gloss shine similar to what others do over lacquer and enamels? Thanks.
Hi John, I have never tried automotive polish on acrylic paints. So can’t say….but for a high gloss finish, you can use the ultimate modeling high shine. There are also other similar products that do the same thing. Are you building a car model? Thus the high gloss finish?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the response. Yes, I am mucking around somewhat on a cheap Tamiya Porsche trying out an airbrush for the first time. Not doing particular well at the moment.
Would you have a link for the ultimate shine, please?
Thanks for the help.
@@johncater7861 here is the link to the Ultimate Weathering products:www.umpretail.com/
I am also including a link to their how to video. I know a lot of car modelers use this but there are other high shine products as well. I only build military kits so never had to use high shine before.ruclips.net/video/PT0J7b36_Sk/видео.htmlsi=an2wpEfmvZvhqY_z
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 many thanks again.
I love my Badger airbrushes. I just can’t get the double action right. That’s why I use the Badger 350 and adjust the paint flow at the nozzle.
Daniel, the 350 is a good airbrush. I recommend you look at the Paasche VL, it is a siphon feed double action airbrush. But you can use it as a single action airbrush like the 350. It has a roller in-front of the trigger that makes it into a single action. The good thing is about the VL is that it has different options for the needle sizes so it gives you versatility. Plus, the VL is super cheap! You can grab one for 25 -- 30 dollars and it is a tank and will last for a long time.
I make my thinner mixture from 90%IPA, distilled water, and a few drops of glycerin. Sprays beautifully.
Because IPA has such a low vapor pressure it evaporates much faster than water and is one of the prime reasons for tip drying.
Can you please review and make a similar video for the AK Interactive 3rd generation acrylics?
Sure, give me 2 weeks.
Hi, I have a question... I am new to the airbrush. If I am using acrylics and backfilling, and each session isn't very long, after how many painting sessions should I thoroughly clean my airbrush? I want to take good care of this thing, and have zero experience.
Thank you so much! Your video has been very helpful!
Hey, so I am gonna drive cleaning airbrushes into two categories. Simple clean and through clean. Simple clean is cleaning your airbrush everytime you use your airbrush. Through clean, you should do once a month just to be on the safe side. I have a video in my channel titled "Airbrush tips and tricks" recommend you check out that out for cleaning techniques. Hope this helps!
Thank you for this. It works great. What mixture do you recommend for Vallejo primer?
Gregory, I made a video on how to airbrush Vallejo primers. I do not recommend using any thinner mixture with primers. It increases the drying time. I mix in "Future" instead...not sure if you are in the US or Europe, I believe it is called "Klear" in Europe. Mix future with Vallejo primers and this will make the primer go hard in about 20 mins. You can start sanding without the primer rolling up on itself.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Future has been discontinued as of Jan 2022. "Looks like Glass" by Deluxe Materials is my replacement for it.
Hi, really appreciated this video, I have not try out the formula yet, but it will be on my next step on my journey of learning airbrushing.
I am a little confused on the formula though:
So 70% Flow Improver + 30% Thinner = 100%, how do we calculate the 10% Retarder?
Is it 10% of the previous mixture?
Or it is rather 70% + 30% + 10%? Like 7 drops of Flow, 3 drops of Thinner and then 1 drop of Retarder?
Many Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Hey glad you like the video! I didn’t explain the formula mathproperly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Yeah, it does, thanks a lot for the quick response!!!
Hi, will try this mixture, I already use an aproxima-te formule, however I don’t have the vallejo reterder, but the ak one! The one with a turtle in the label, do you think this is similar?
@@brunolopes9900 hi, it should be alright as long as the retarder is still good. Retarder does go bad after some time. If it’s really hard to squeeze out. Then it might be bad and will not work.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196yeah. The one from ak is actually way more líquid. It’s not a paste like the Vallejo one. I’ll do the mix and let you know how it goes
good video. if i use Vallejo Model Color do i just need to thin it a bit more?
Hi, yes. Model Color is formulated for brush painting. So it has much more pigment and less carrier liquid. I have a video on how to airbrush Model color using the thinner mixture. I recommend 80/20 thinner mixture to paint.
Hey, I was just watching (again) your video and I heard you mentioned the Hataka paints. I was searching yesterday on YT for videos related to these paints cause I'm interested in using them on my spitfire build but didn't find any thorough/useful (at least what I define thorough/useful) video. I really liked the accuracy of these colors and the wide range Hataka offers. Do you have any tips to give me on their acrylics - Red line like, with what thinners they work best, ratio, airbrush needle and psi. Tbh my airbrush is a very basic,cheap "all in one" kit and doesn't go above 15psi, at 21psi it turns off automatically I think. Thank you very much in advance!
Hi, yes I can give you tips on Hataka Red line. So I tested with my thinner mixture (the one in this video) a while back. The mixture in my video works on all water based acrylics
With the red line, I did 60:40 thinner to paint ratio at around 18psi. They worked really well at that range and thinning.
Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you very much!
Really enjoyed the video. My go to paint is MRP but I want to switch to acrylics because of the fumes. Have you had any luck with Ammo by MIG paints? I like tho color selection but I just can't get them to airbrush.
Jay, glad you liked the video. My go to paints were the Hataka orange line lacquers. There smell was just to much for me. I have used Ammo paints but it was before I created my formula. But at the time, I was never able to get them to work right. I might have to pick up a bottle and do some testing. Bring that Vallejo and Ammo paints are very similar….I think formula might work on Ammo paints.
Very informative. I’ve never airbrushed, but want to try. Do I have to use a primer, or can I just spray directly on the model?
DS, glad the video is helpful to you. Funny thing, the most questions I get are airbrushing. So I’m working on an airbrushing video for beginners. So look out for that video in about 2 weeks. But as far as your question; yes I recommend primer. The primer helps acrylics stick, helps find any flaws, and makes the paint uniform.
Hello, is there any way I could make my matte paint glossy while airbrushing? Thank you
@@alexfly01 hi yes, all you need to do is add in an acrylic gloss. When I want to make my paint glossy I add in a drop or two of Future or I will use Alclad Aqua gloss. I thin the paint with my formula, then add in a drop or two of gloss. Mix it together. Don’t add to much gloss or the paint will be runny.
Lastly, when airbrushing gloss paint…reduce the air pressure to 12-15 psi.
I am 66 and just retired. I am doing scale model aircraft. W.W.2. Thank you so much your mixture really helped me plus improved the painting. One question if I may...When weathering and using washes do I gloss coat over the acrylic paint job first then dry and then apply the wash to bring out panel lines and rivits.
Hi Woody, glad you liked the video. As far as your question, yes you must apply a gloss coat and let it dry, then add the decals (gloss coat makes decaling easier), then after decaling you can add another light gloss to protect the decals (if required). Then you can add a wash to bring out the panel lines.
Took me years to figure out on my own!
Doing my best not to launch all my Vallejo paints and get stabby with my airbrush needle this afternoon!..🤬🤬 I’ll give this mix a go when the Valium has kicked in and see if my sanity will return.
Haha, Jon I get it. But I promise if you follow my instructions you will have great results and your blood pressure will return to normal 😊
How did it go? What brand of airbrush are you using?
Would there be any benefit to just adding flow improver directly into the paint bottle? Assuming you only spray that color?
Magnus, if you plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon. Then there shouldn’t be a problem. But if you leave the bottle sitting with the flow improver inside, eventually it will separate the paint pigment from the carrier liquid and you won’t be able to airbrush the paint anymore.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I was curious if something like that would happen. Thank you.
Oh yes! Thank you sir, that was just about as idiot proof (for the likes of me) as anyone can get. Very clear and careful naration. Superb.
Thank you! Glad you like.
Tried this formula with 50/50 for the metal colors. Tried at 20psi, with .3mm tip, but I still kept getting dry tip. I need to wipe down the needle pretty often to keep the flow going. Do I need to thin it even further?
Hi Red, do not use this formula with Vallejo Metal colors. It will make them very tacky. Best way to airbrush Vallejo Metal color is to use Tamiya x-22 at 50/50 and lower psi at 12-15. If watch my other videos, I do a full build of a P-51 using Vallejo Metal colors.
Oh wow, really lol? learn new things everyday. I'll go and find some X-22 then. Thanks!@@arewethereyetmodeling2196
Your other vids that use the metal colors mention to use just the flow improver for the new formula, which I have. I'll use just the flow improver since I already have that, and see how it goes. @@arewethereyetmodeling2196
@@redbones01flow improver definitely helps! But after testing I found that Tamiya X-20a works best. Do a test with both and see which works for you the best. Good luck!
Can you store the mix of fluids in the container or do you have to mix a new batch every time you paint?
Hi Sean, I make a big batch and store it into 17ml bottles (I have like 7 of those bottles) and use it when I need. The mixture holds up just fine. I found a bottle I had forgotten about from 5 plus years ago and the mixture still was good.
Thanks so much that’s what I was hoping. And thank you for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it.
@@seanyoung8085 of course! The whole goal is to help fellow modelers. Feel free to reach out anytime if you have questions.
Hi! 🙂 Is it okay to use bigger needles for bigger model, in example the hull of a ship?
Hey, yes you can use a big needle setup, .5 or .7. Just make your paint is thinned properly and psi is good (bigger needles you typically don't need as much psi, keep that in mind) But to be honest, you really won't need it. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 build, I did that entire kit using a .2mm needle. Smaller needle gives you more precise control and it is better to small sections than large. I have noticed that when people use bigger needles they tend to flood the paint. So just be aware of that. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196thank you, appreciate it!
Could you give me email or something to ask for advice... I don't want to ruin your video with my rookie questions.... 🙂
Thank you in advance!
Sure, feel free email me at davisstudent25@gmail.com
What pressure do you use for such a thin lines?
Dr, I use 20 psi and my paint is thinned at 60% paint to 40% thinner. Sometimes I will do 50/50 paint to thinner mixture. A lot depends on your airbrush and it's settings. Start with 20 psi and 60/40 paint to thinner ratio and go from there.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanx!
How do you measure the % of the mixture? Do you do it by volume, weight, or just drops?
Hi, I do it by volume. I have it marked on my bottle from testing and just use that as my guide. Hope that helps!
Would you use the same thinning formula for Vallejo Acrylic Resin Varnishes?
Patrice, I would not recommend using the formula for the resin varnishes. It will make them dry much slower and make them tacky. To thin the Resin Varnishes, I recommend using Vallejo Thinner only at 50/50 ratio at about 15psi. Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you!
Good evening.
70+30+10=110…so is it 70%+30%+10 drops? Thank you!
My grandson (AJ) & I are working together through WWII model aircraft building. Unfortunately…we purchased Vallejo Air, Model Color and Game Color.
We can airbrush the V-Air right OOTB. The MC and GC we can’t airbrush no matter what we do. If we thin it enough to spray, it’s colored water…
Paasche with .38mm at 15-20 psi. We’re going to purchase the V materials to make your home-brew. MAN I hope we can make it work. We spend much more $ and grandma is going to….
Thanks. Your videos are e x c e l l e n T!
Paw and AJ, I hope you enjoy your build! Yes 70+30+10 is correct. If you look at my Model color airbrushing video I have a ratio for airbrushing Model Color and should same for Game Color.
Also, what Paasche airbrush are you using? If it’s a siphon feed you might need to increase air pressure a bit. To see if the paint is ready to airbrush, use the back flush method. Look for bubbles like you get when you blow into chocolate milk.
If you need anymore assistance, email me directly and I’ll be happy to help anyway I can. My email: davisstudent25@gmail.com
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you! We will email you. I think we are confused. AJ is here all weekend :-)
New to airbrushing; have cheap airbrush which seems to work fine; thin Vallejo with water; spraying from a distance and slowly; not happy with the finish but particularly disappointed with the fact that the Vallejo paints don't "harden up" like gloss enamels. As I continue to work on the model, I am left with finger and other marks which cannot be removed.
Most of the paints are flat. At what point would you add gloss varnish? Would the gloss varnish harden up the paint?
John, if you only learn one thing about acrylics…let it be this: never ever thin acrylics with water for airbrushing. Water thins acrylics but also causes the binding agent to have less adhesion. This is why you’re leaving finger prints in the paint. What might help if you have a hair dryer, use that to dry the paint and that might help. Then add in a gloss varnish for weathering. Be careful with any masking as the paint will be weak.
I recommend in the future you prime your model and use my thinning formula in the video and you will get fantastic results!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the response. The model was primed - again thinned with water. Next attempt shall follow your rules and not be such a cheapskate.
@@johncater7861 no worries, you don't know what you don't know. You didn't mention in your original message you thinned the primer with water as well. Use the thinning formula to thin the primer in the future, it will help the primer (assuming your using Vallejo primer or Badger primer) flow and not tip dry. Now having said that, you can use water to thin your Vallejo paints for brush painting. When painting small parts, thinning the paint with water (slight bit of water) will help flow the paint better and a trick gunpla/figure modelers use to create variations. I use this technique to paint my cockpits.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 many thanks.
Very helpful, but the percentages are confusing as others have said. Rather than percentages would using drops be a better way to understand the formula? For example, 7 drops of flow improver plus 3 drops of thinner and then 1 drop of retarder. which is 10 percent of the base mixture. Is that correct?
Hey so sorry for my belated reply. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense?
But more importantly, the reason I did percentages was that people wanted to mix large batches and not just do one at a time.
I cannot get my Vallejo paint to stick to my model. Even air brushing it over Mr. Surfacer primer it still comes off with my finger nail. Please help!!
Hi so can expand further what you mean? And as far as coming off with finger nails. All paints will come off if you scratch them. Once you are finished painting it is a good idea to seal in the paint to prevent that.
Thanks for the updated video.... very helpful information. Picky question regarding the thinning mixture. You state: 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, and 10% Retarder (total 110%). Is that correct, or did you mean 70 / 20 / 10 or 60 / 30 / 10 for the mixture (total 100%)?
David, picky questions are good. 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, and 10% Retarder (total 110%) is correct.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I'm 110% confused.
@@bryanjensen6095 so am I 🤷🏻♂
@@bryanjensen6095 If you were mixing up in milliliters, you'd do 7ml Flow Improver, 3ml Thinner, and 1ml retarder.
@@bryanjensen6095 so easiest way is, of the liquid stuff: 70% flow improver and 30% thinner (do not use the cleaner, make sure it’s the thinner), and 10% added to the total of liquid of the gooey medium retarder.
Hi thank you for the video and formula receipt. Does this work with 3rd gen acrylics by AK interactive? I have terrible time with those (clogging completely etc). Also is it possible to mix AK thinner, AK flowimproover and Vallejo retarder medium?
Hi, so yes it does. I created a Facebook group for acrylic users and one of our members tested Ak 3rd gen with the mixture formula. He was able to get pencil lines with the paint. His post is in the group feed. He did one issue, he used 2 different airbrushes, one worked great the other didn't. A fellow modeler has sent me some AK 3rd paints, I am going to do a test with them and post a video soon (I hope).
As far as using AK thinner, flow improver, vallejo retarder. I don't know....but I think it should work. The only issue I know what AK thinner is that you cannot use it with Vallejo paints, it has an ingredient that ruins the Vallejo paints.
Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 fantastic, thans for your reply! I will try it next week so I will post the result here after. One more question - I got the retarder and it is really thick (like honey) - how do you measure it? I can’t imagine to put it in the pipette.
@@davidriha3125 so if it’s really thick and foggy it has gone bad. Don’t use it, retarder will go bad by itself fairly quickly if not kept in the right conditions. Grab a new bottle, it should come off pretty easy.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 So, i’ve just tried your formula for AK interactive 3rd gen acrylics with white crown bottlehead (formula mixed of AK interactive flow improver (black label with orange AK logo), AK 3rd gen thinner (white label, not the one with orange cap and blue water on label) and Vallejo retarder medium). The paint/formula mixture roughly 50:50. It worked on 100%! Perfect coverage, no tip drying and even though my trigger control was just awful (I even let the trigger lose directly from back position) there was no clog no tip dry nothing. So I can confirm that your formula is working with ak 3rd gen acrylics. I cannot explain how this helped me. You literally saved my hobby since I was spraying gunze laquers and it is not possible anymore due to new family members. Thank you and cheers!
@@davidriha3125 I am so glad to hear! Please join the Facebook group I created and post your results.
is this formula just for vallejo model air or can it be used with all version of vallejo paints?
Hi, you can use this formula with Vallejo Model Color. I have a video on airbrushing model color on my channel. More importantly, you can use this formula with any “water-based” acrylic paint (Ammo, AK, Army painters, etc). Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks...will check out the video