I've used these primers for years now and they have always been perfect. The only disadvantage is that they work out quite expensive but IMHO they are worth it because of the lack of risk using these. I live in Portugal and have used them in hot/cold/humid/dry and have never had any problems. I'm lucky because I can spray in the open air but the sprays are very volatile, smelly and you definitely don't want to breathe this stuff in!
You chose the perfect piece to show how incredible this primer is. I just discovered and used it on a 1/48 scale P51. Rarely can you say perfect about painting but when it dries it was perfect, so smooth you could barely see the premier which is what you want when you have to use so many levels of paint and finishes. . That's for verifying " the pros " use it too. I'm in the Pacific North in the colonies and it is very humid and rainy, spray in the garage and bring in to try.
Your videos are incredibly informative and to the point, very appreciated as someone just getting into model building! You're very good at making videos, you should make some more general tutorials or tips videos! Definitely curious to see a video with more info on masks!
Yeah, rattle cans can really be awesome during the summer. When you just blu-tack on a bunch on models on sticks and prime or varnish like 20 in under 1 minute. And the added bonuse of there being no cleanup, like with the airbrush. While I do own a proper FFP3 mask, it's always interesting to see what other recommends and what's new out there, and maybe find something that's easier to use.
Everything prior to 4:34 is irrelevant info to the actual Tamiya primer.. it's all good and useful info, just not what people like myself are expecting to see when they see the title subject being the specific Tamiya primer.. I'd put that info in a beginners guide to primer because I have a feeling most people watching this video already know all of that info, if they're searching for Tamiya's primer.
My only issue with Tamiya primer is it has a ridiculously strong odour, far stronger than when I airbrush or use airbrush cleaning products. Even with a fume hood, the primer just stains the whole room
I found this the best white primer, better coverage than Mr Hobby's 1000 or 1500 white, and much smoother than Tamiya's white lacquer primer, I often decante it in airbrush it just works fine and no need to solve with thinner.
I’ve been dithering over a rattle-can of this in my shopping cart for a couple of weeks, so this is good timing. Do you know of any differences between the different colours of this primer? I was thinking of using the pink for mass-priming figures of people (and since it would be really obvious whether I got good coverage).
One thing I have to mention, I noticed your respirator is a JSP Force 8 with P3 filters. P3 filters are for larger particles like dust and wood. You need ABEK for complete protection as it will provide filtration against organic vapours and acid gases which are found in aerosol based spray paint cans. If you can smell it with the mask on, the chemicals are entering your lungs. You can get the JSP ABEK filters for a fairly affordable price.
Thanks, when I initially looked into a respirator I went for those P3 filters as they were the highest rated filter for particulates etc along with the fact that I was only spraying for small periods of time in a well ventulated area. So my logic was those filters would be fit for that purpose. However, after your post, I have been doing some more digging as well as looking at JSP directly as they are the manufacturer of my mask. It is certainly concerning as I have seen various levels of protection promised by different sellers. However, looking at JSP directly, I have come to the same conclusion that the ABEK1 P3 mask is indeed the most appropriate. Especially as I want to start spraying enamels and lacquers. So upgraded filters have just been ordered! Thanks for the heads up in such a constructive way
I've been using Tamiya surface primer forever and it's quick and dries fast. I always get great results so why try any other? You know what they say, "If something works don't fix it!
Definitely give Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 a try, if Tamiya is out of stock.. 1200, 1000 & 500 are also options but the lower you go, the thicker/rougher it is. 500 has a texture, while 1500 is so thin and smooth it's almost like you can barely tell it was primered. That stuff is incredible. I haven't tried Tamiya personally but I have watched some other reviews on it and I'd still choose Mr. Surfacer over it, tbh.
I believe the fine surface primer has finer pigment particles which is supposedly better for fine detail. How much difference it makes... I haven't tested that yet.... let me see what I can do
@@FlyingRavenStudios I noticed that Amazon is selling a 100ml can of the normal for about £5, but the 180ml FINE is £15. Don't know how long it lasts and how many models either will do. Saw another review that showed not a lot of difference between the two. Still kept the fine detail. Just don't use car spray primer as it costs it really deep.
Hi I have used the Tamiya Gray Surface Primer on a large 1/14 Tamiya truck but the result was not satisfactory. There were patches of dark spots even after laying down 4 coats of the grey primer. The original body came in the Black edition but I wanted to repaint it in Metallic orange and so I sanded down the body with 400 grit followed by 1000 grit and finally 2000 grit. I then washed it under water and dried it and then proceeded to prime it. Is there something I could do further to make the grey primer evenly coated.
@@FlyingRavenStudios it was not covering the black. In fact, after posting this comment, I went to sand the whole body again with 1000 grit Tamiya sandpaper using running water. As a result the edges are exposed and some parts of the body shows the black underside. But the whole body was smooth to the touch and does not look overcoated. However I went on to lay down another round of Tamiya Fine surface primer to try to cover the
@@FlyingRavenStudios Hi sorry accidentally cut-off my sentence. Presently I have given it at least 3 quick over coats. It seems to have better even coverage now although the black underside is still visible on some spots. Perhaps I think maybe another 2 rounds of coating and then I will start painting the metallic orange color.
Hi! Are you painting straight onto the plastic? If so, yes this will help. If it is still a problem, then it might be grease or release agent on the plastic surface. Not that common these days as far as I am aware, but can happen. Just washing the sprues and letting them dry fully before building and then priming should do the trick. Hope that helps!
Ahhh I see. Yes thats fair enough. If you spray in thin layers so you do not lose the detail, I would expect it to be fine. Let me know how you get on!
In the end it seems I may have to use the paint removal process, as I found the blue color even though coated with a primer is darkening the racing white. So it’s not matching the other parts in racing white!
I've been experimenting with spray primer, Army painter specifically, as I've started using some of the Mk2 Speedpaints (which are really good, btw) and they are most effective over a nice even undercoat. I've found, however, that the spray often dries to quite a textured finish which I'm not keen on. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Does the Tamiya spray do the same thing?
Very glad you are getting on better with the Mk2's! The Tamiya rattle can I have been using has been giving a nice smooth result. I haven't tested the Army Painter cans. But It sounds like it may possibly be starting to dry before it hits the model if it is a slightly dusty result you are getting? Have you tried spraying slightly closer?
@@FlyingRavenStudios That could well be what's happening. Because I use 15mm's, I was trying not to gum them up, but I may have misjudged it. I'll try it from a bit closer on the next lot.
I have had a quick look, but I can not see what type of plastic they are made from. I would imagine it would be absolutely fine, but as always, it's sensible to test it first. Let me know how you get on!
There are lots of variables here, such as temperature and humidity. But it is normally at least touch dry in a minute or so, depending on how thick you spray it on. Light coats will dry very quickly.
I've used these primers for years now and they have always been perfect. The only disadvantage is that they work out quite expensive but IMHO they are worth it because of the lack of risk using these. I live in Portugal and have used them in hot/cold/humid/dry and have never had any problems. I'm lucky because I can spray in the open air but the sprays are very volatile, smelly and you definitely don't want to breathe this stuff in!
You chose the perfect piece to show how incredible this primer is. I just discovered and used it on a 1/48 scale P51. Rarely can you say perfect about painting but when it dries it was perfect, so smooth you could barely see the premier which is what you want when you have to use so many levels of paint and finishes. . That's for verifying " the pros " use it too. I'm in the Pacific North in the colonies and it is very humid and rainy, spray in the garage and bring in to try.
Thanks and I am really glad you have also been getting a great result with this one!
I love this primer too, very fine spray pattern 👍
Your videos are incredibly informative and to the point, very appreciated as someone just getting into model building! You're very good at making videos, you should make some more general tutorials or tips videos! Definitely curious to see a video with more info on masks!
Thank you, that is massively appreciated!
Welcome to the hobby! Is there any particular tutorials, or videos in general you would like to see?
Yeah, rattle cans can really be awesome during the summer. When you just blu-tack on a bunch on models on sticks and prime or varnish like 20 in under 1 minute.
And the added bonuse of there being no cleanup, like with the airbrush.
While I do own a proper FFP3 mask, it's always interesting to see what other recommends and what's new out there, and maybe find something that's easier to use.
Yes it can make bulk priming a lot easier for that sort of thing cant it. Ok, will see what I can do and look at some mask options 👍
Everything prior to 4:34 is irrelevant info to the actual Tamiya primer.. it's all good and useful info, just not what people like myself are expecting to see when they see the title subject being the specific Tamiya primer.. I'd put that info in a beginners guide to primer because I have a feeling most people watching this video already know all of that info, if they're searching for Tamiya's primer.
Thank you for the constructive feedback. I do appreciate it!
I love this primer.. I prefer black, but that's harder to find. Mr. Hobby has a similar one in black. But either way, definitely a top notch primer.
My only issue with Tamiya primer is it has a ridiculously strong odour, far stronger than when I airbrush or use airbrush cleaning products. Even with a fume hood, the primer just stains the whole room
I found this the best white primer, better coverage than Mr Hobby's 1000 or 1500 white, and much smoother than Tamiya's white lacquer primer, I often decante it in airbrush it just works fine and no need to solve with thinner.
I haven't tried decanting it yet, but will definitely now give that a go!
I have always used this primer. Never had any problems
That's great to hear 👍
Don’t spray in direct sunlight - it might lead to the paint drying before it hits the model, leading to a dusty finish.
I’ve been dithering over a rattle-can of this in my shopping cart for a couple of weeks, so this is good timing. Do you know of any differences between the different colours of this primer? I was thinking of using the pink for mass-priming figures of people (and since it would be really obvious whether I got good coverage).
I do not know about pink I am afraid. Light grey might do you well as a primer to then paint skin tones over though. Let me know how you get on!
@@FlyingRavenStudios I will report! My respirator mask is ready to go :)
One thing I have to mention, I noticed your respirator is a JSP Force 8 with P3 filters. P3 filters are for larger particles like dust and wood. You need ABEK for complete protection as it will provide filtration against organic vapours and acid gases which are found in aerosol based spray paint cans. If you can smell it with the mask on, the chemicals are entering your lungs. You can get the JSP ABEK filters for a fairly affordable price.
Thanks, when I initially looked into a respirator I went for those P3 filters as they were the highest rated filter for particulates etc along with the fact that I was only spraying for small periods of time in a well ventulated area. So my logic was those filters would be fit for that purpose. However, after your post, I have been doing some more digging as well as looking at JSP directly as they are the manufacturer of my mask. It is certainly concerning as I have seen various levels of protection promised by different sellers. However, looking at JSP directly, I have come to the same conclusion that the ABEK1 P3 mask is indeed the most appropriate. Especially as I want to start spraying enamels and lacquers. So upgraded filters have just been ordered!
Thanks for the heads up in such a constructive way
I've been using Tamiya surface primer forever and it's quick and dries fast. I always get great results so why try any other? You know what they say, "If something works don't fix it!
Very true!
Definitely give Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 a try, if Tamiya is out of stock.. 1200, 1000 & 500 are also options but the lower you go, the thicker/rougher it is. 500 has a texture, while 1500 is so thin and smooth it's almost like you can barely tell it was primered. That stuff is incredible. I haven't tried Tamiya personally but I have watched some other reviews on it and I'd still choose Mr. Surfacer over it, tbh.
@@hhaste thanks I will take a look!
Tamiya Fine and Mr Surfacer black are the best !!!
What's the difference between the FINE and NORMAL versions? I'm wanting to paint figures for a Hornby OO gauge railway, so 1:76 scale.
I believe the fine surface primer has finer pigment particles which is supposedly better for fine detail. How much difference it makes... I haven't tested that yet.... let me see what I can do
@@FlyingRavenStudios I noticed that Amazon is selling a 100ml can of the normal for about £5, but the 180ml FINE is £15. Don't know how long it lasts and how many models either will do. Saw another review that showed not a lot of difference between the two. Still kept the fine detail. Just don't use car spray primer as it costs it really deep.
@@andrewdale5473 Much differece, this one is much smoother and not easy to get a grainy look.
Hi I have used the Tamiya Gray Surface Primer on a large 1/14 Tamiya truck but the result was not satisfactory. There were patches of dark spots even after laying down 4 coats of the grey primer. The original body came in the Black edition but I wanted to repaint it in Metallic orange and so I sanded down the body with 400 grit followed by 1000 grit and finally 2000 grit. I then washed it under water and dried it and then proceeded to prime it. Is there something I could do further to make the grey primer evenly coated.
How do you mean dark spots? As in its not covering the black? Or it is a dark gray compared to the rest?
@@FlyingRavenStudios it was not covering the black. In fact, after posting this comment, I went to sand the whole body again with 1000 grit Tamiya sandpaper using running water. As a result the edges are exposed and some parts of the body shows the black underside. But the whole body was smooth to the touch and does not look overcoated. However I went on to lay down another round of Tamiya Fine surface primer to try to cover the
@@janarthanamsubramaniam sorry I think it cut off the end of your comment. What happened after the second coat after sanding it?
@@FlyingRavenStudios Hi sorry accidentally cut-off my sentence. Presently I have given it at least 3 quick over coats. It seems to have better even coverage now although the black underside is still visible on some spots. Perhaps I think maybe another 2 rounds of coating and then I will start painting the metallic orange color.
Hi, I have problem on plastic spray paint always peeling off. Is this primer can fix this kind problem? Thank you for reply.
Hi! Are you painting straight onto the plastic? If so, yes this will help. If it is still a problem, then it might be grease or release agent on the plastic surface. Not that common these days as far as I am aware, but can happen. Just washing the sprues and letting them dry fully before building and then priming should do the trick.
Hope that helps!
@@FlyingRavenStudios thank you so much. I will try it. ☺️
Let me know how you get on!
@@FlyingRavenStudios yes. 👍
Can you use Tamiya primer on top of Tamiya acrylic to correct the wrong paint color that was originally used
Yeah you could. Is there a reason you do not want to strip the existing paint and then reprime?
Concerned on damaging the detail of the part and its integrity.
I have used super green with an eye glass sterilizer. Works well. 😮
Ahhh I see. Yes thats fair enough. If you spray in thin layers so you do not lose the detail, I would expect it to be fine. Let me know how you get on!
In the end it seems I may have to use the paint removal process, as I found the blue color even though coated with a primer is darkening the racing white. So it’s not matching the other parts in racing white!
Excellent! Thanx!
Glad you liked it!
How many coats?
Good question. There are a number of variables that could affect this. But personally, in general, I find one coat is good for what I need.
I've been experimenting with spray primer, Army painter specifically, as I've started using some of the Mk2 Speedpaints (which are really good, btw) and they are most effective over a nice even undercoat. I've found, however, that the spray often dries to quite a textured finish which I'm not keen on. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Does the Tamiya spray do the same thing?
Very glad you are getting on better with the Mk2's!
The Tamiya rattle can I have been using has been giving a nice smooth result.
I haven't tested the Army Painter cans. But It sounds like it may possibly be starting to dry before it hits the model if it is a slightly dusty result you are getting? Have you tried spraying slightly closer?
@@FlyingRavenStudios That could well be what's happening. Because I use 15mm's, I was trying not to gum them up, but I may have misjudged it. I'll try it from a bit closer on the next lot.
@@parazatico9030 can you let me know how you get on? I would be interested to hear
@@FlyingRavenStudios Of course!
Would like to ask if I use tamiya on ASOAIF models will it work?
I have had a quick look, but I can not see what type of plastic they are made from. I would imagine it would be absolutely fine, but as always, it's sensible to test it first. Let me know how you get on!
How long does it take to dry?
There are lots of variables here, such as temperature and humidity. But it is normally at least touch dry in a minute or so, depending on how thick you spray it on. Light coats will dry very quickly.