Hi! Great info, I have been building models for way to long! Hahaha! I would like to know what is your experience with Testors? I bought loads when I lived in the States 20 years ago and the are still good for the most part. I've not seen any other manufacturers that do metalizer buffable Paints. I'm not even sure Testors is in business anymore. Just wondering if u had any experience with these Paints. Cheers!
Love these cut-out videos! Never feel sorry for not putting out actual modelling content, this is just as good and relevant!! They make nice little breaks in between ongoing projects and are just as informative!! Keep doing them, there's so many topics that can be touched upon!!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm English and a teacher of English) Believe me, you are heads above manyyyy native speakers; to explain this hobby in clear fine detail in your 2nd language and to inspire thousands of us... Impressive and I'm sure everyone here agrees with me)
My friend, greetings from a USer of Slovakian descent! Absolutely enjoy all your uploads. They contain mountains of information smothered in witty personality. Due to you, I have ordered my first tank model after 60 years of modeling (Tamiya 1/35 King Tiger). Please keep the videos coming sir.
Thanks for your view on the topic. I think everyone has to find his or her personal favourite, but recommendations certainly help shortening the effort one has to make to find it :)
Exactly! Back in my day Vallejo and Vallejo Air were all the rage because Spanish modelers were using them in their magazine articles, and then it was suddenly Tamiya all the way for airbrushing :) And I gotta admit, back then I immediately found Tamiya paints to be easier to spray than Vallejo.
I always had issues with Mr. Surfacer, due to the relative fast drying time. It became thick, already when I sprayed from the can. Solution found: I just put the can into warm water, before using, which made lover viscosity and use it like that.
Martin, thank you so much for this analysis, you are very kind. I used Vallejo Model Color and Model Air on the company's white primer. I thin all of these with their thinner and they work really well. They don't really need to be thinned but I tend to overpaint, so it's better if I apply the products in multiple, thin layers. However - the primer needs 48 hours and the paint layers 24 to dry properly, otherwise the polyurethane base will lift and peel just as you report. Ammo by Mig Jimenez will have their first day out in a couple of days, once the primer on my latest model is dry. Thanks again for the wonderful work you do. Greetings from Slovenia.
I kept hearing that the primer would peel off like it was made of rubber! I also heard a wargamer say that the primer when airbrushed took 15 minutes to dry and 1-hour brush painted!
@@NightShiftScaleModels needed a primer mainly so I'll try and pick up a Mr surfacer. Can't stand cans though, as my Tamiya spray can is uncontrollable and my model was dripping with paint. Ruined the whitewash.
@@tobysellors941 i stopped using Tamiya spray especially on planes. It leaves a pretty thick layer so when removing masking tape, especially around a canopy, it left a mess, like orange peel.
Paint spray cans are really hard to control, seen that several times. But primers are actually pretty good, I used the spray can Mr. Surfacer several times on this channel. You need to apply it with quick passes and let it dry before spraying more, it'll level out beautifully without flooding any details.
i only do brush painting gaming models, but i love vallejo. between the size of the range, price, and availability... its probably the best for my needs
I haven't built a plastic kit in decades. But I do enjoy watching modeling videos. Yours I find very enjoyable simply because you don't take yourself too seriously. It's a hobby unless your are one of the small number of modelers that build professionally. When I was building the variety of paints was far lower. Or maybe the local shop just didn't carry that much. But what l really liked was Floquill.
Actually even the chemistry is different.. the adherence and the the results are different on both.... but, yea, who knows.. maybe there is a hobby that turn about painting spoons and we dont know about... you can do nice faces on it hehhe
Regarding chipping being harder with lacquers and specifically with MRP, it is true but only for the standard method. Using a standard brush with water over MRP with chipping fluid won't do much unless you rub really hard. From my perspective that's an advantage as now, you can deliberately chip the surface with scribers and other things such as fiberglass pens with much finer detail similar to what you can do with painting it while being able to create unique effects.
Very informative. I'm just starting model painting again. Last time as a kid with humbrols or any kind of paint I could get hold of, sometimes with.. interesting results.
Glad to see someone else endorising exact same 3 favorite brands. Tamiya, Lifecolor and Mr. Hobby. Can't go wrong.. The only downside of Lifecolor is they're somewhat hard to find at full range, and the Italian store selling them charges 15 euros for shipping where the set itself cost 18....so yeah, no. Most of mine came from ebay for some reasonable prices.
This channel is so good, probably the best modelling videos on RUclips in my opinion! Considering how good the community is, maybe there could be a community awards episode for the anniversary of the channel? People could vote on their favourite models of Martin's and their favourite models posted by other community members in various categories. Just a suggestion. Stay awesome :)
Excellent timing! I am just getting back into scale modelling after almost 30 years (how things have changed!), and was just starting to research this stuff. Thank you!
Ditto. Back in the 1980s it was Humbrol enamels all the way; very hard to buy anything else. I still have some of my old brushes and they look like the fur of a flea-bitten mongrel. Acrylics are so much more user-friendly. Yet oddly, I miss the old Humbrol smell.
There are lots of paint choices out there Martin. I agree with you on the Mission Models paints. I rarely hear anyone rave about them, It's mostly failed attempts and tears... lol! I've always relied on Tamiya, AK, Vallejo, and Gunze for the best results. I've also had good success (like you said) thinning AK acrylics and Vallejos with MLT. Thanks for posting your thoughts. Cheers!
Fantastic, really appreciate this video, i understand it may seem obvious to many, but for us noobs its amazingly informative, look forward to more tutorials like this.
I agree with almost everything you said. Big fan of Tamiya. Can't stand Vallejo. My rule of thumb for using Mr. Surfacer, is; the smaller the scale the higher number of Mr. Surfacer you should use. 1/48 use 1000, 1/72 use 1500 etc... Glad to see you back after the holiday.
Faaaaantastic. I’m new to modelling, and have purchase Tamiya paints. They seem a nightmare with all the mixing/thinners etc but videos from professionals like yourself are great.
Just ramping myself up to get back into it after 30 odd years.........cleared out the spare room for a work space, got a couple of kits, got the sounds ready, got the compressor with a starter airbrush, got the Tamiya super thin glue, got the superfine tweezers, sanding sticks and putty on order and................ Vallejo paints!!!! Bugger!!.... very good video though .......
We call the Mr. Color Lacquer Leveling Thinner "Unicorn Tears." :) I'm a lacquer guy. Mainly because it's so forgiving when it comes to thinning for airbrushing. Also no tip drying issues. Another neat thing is that if your coat of paint has a flaw, you can actually reactivate it with a tiny bit of thinner. It never really "cures" like acrylics do.
Thanks for this Uncle Nightshift.I could make pretty eduucated guesses about most of these from watching your videos ;) but it was nice to hear you say it and be certain. and thanks for the tip on Vallejo and chipping.
That's what I needed! I was just thinking about buying some paints, as I recently got back to modeling after... well, to many years, and I didn't know which paints to buy, which are good, etc. - and boom! Uncle Night Shift posts a video exactly on that subject! :D Thank You, Uncle Night Shift :D
Probably I have solution of yellowed or browned (?) AK RC's Matt varnish. I have same problem with Tamiya matt varnish, I filled the bottle with mr.hobby leveling thinner, after few months the varnish was looking like yours. It's probably caused by oxidizing thinner by air over the paint in bottle. Correct me if I'm wrong. Edit : 11:40
Glad to hear that I'm no the only one who doesn't get on with Mig paints, though the primer is great. Had mixed results with Life color - had some beautiful finishes with it but struggled to get details to work because it would just spider everywhere. Hataka is the easiest pure acrylic I've used and I'm using it now. It sprays easily and goes on exactly as you intended it to. Lacquers give a great finish and are easy to use but moving away from them for health reasons.
Hey Martin! Great class on model paint fundamentals. Really appreciate that you cleared up some basic rules, given all the mediums available to modelers today.
Great vid. Very helpful indeed. I agree 💯 on the Mr. Surfacer Primers. I usually buy the cans when I can't find the jars at my LHS and decant them into bottles right away. Less waste and you don't have to thin them for your airbrush. Keep up the good work brother!
@@Movingpath compressor: NO-NAME brand Master Blaster II, from Spray Gunner. Airbrush: badger patriot (I think). Not cheap, but not crazy expensive like Iwata. I still haven't received it and it's my first foray, so I don't know if I can recommend it yet. We'll see.
I bought one too, in the Black Friday sales. A non-branded Chinese model. Most important to get a compressor with an attached air tank which evens out the airflow and means the pump is not working all the time. Quite bulky but adds only $15-$20 to the price. Altogether I paid about $100 for airbrush + compressor with bottle.
I've tried all the paints for airbrushing and keep going back to Tamiya and Gunze Mr. Color. Just can't beat those two brands with Mr. Leveling Thinner.
Exactly. Haven't tried Gunze myself although aircraft modellers love them, which means they must be super smooth. They also come in H and C ranges, but I have no idea which one is which, I guess one is pure lacquer and the other is something like Tamiya.
@@NightShiftScaleModels The new Tamiya lacquers are not compatible with the Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner. The Mr. Levelling causes the paint to actually get thicker and sprays a really coarse powdery rough paint. Best stick with the Tamiya lacquer thinner.
Gunze airbrushes just fine. I thin with Tamiya 20A or iso- alcohol. The Gunze RAL Luftwaffe colors seem very accurate and are easy to use. I use Tamiya for armor kits. See no reason to change.
@@ScottKenny1978 I've build the "new" uh-1c from revell last month and the fitment was horrible, i don't know if all the helli's from revell are the same, but avoid this one
Nice always good to find out about some different products. I will definitely try out the VMS Varnish, I've been struggling with the Vallejo varnishes for a while now.
Good opinions about your paints you use .What I don´t understand your problems with Tamiyas Primercan ,I use it all the time I don´t wash my models all the time .And it set optimal no orangepeel and never gone off. I use white majorly and also grey and primer red and I am very amazed of the result .For black priming I use spraila matt black spray this one is very cheap and big cans and it never fails also .With paints I fully agree with you .Tamiya is best paint for decades.With the new retader you also able to paint them by brush and with airbrush you got a smoother surface .Good to see they got an new thinner also with retarder inside I need to have a look at my local shop for it .For the acrylic stuff I use the same stuff as you do .I totally agree with your opinion in all casses .For cleaning I use Mig perfect cleaner at least good stuff as well .After I use my Airbush I give it a shot with Balistol spray this prefend the needle to stuck if I don´t use it for a while .
Some color pigments are just naturally translucent. Most notably pure yellow, red, blue and purple. And that is normally independent of the medium they are suspended in (acrylic, alcohol, enamel or oil). the best way to counter that is to undercoat with that specific color and a little white added. or you take colors that are similar to the tone. light ochre or sand for yellow. I'm by now also pretty brand agnostic. I use what works and some companies produce a great colors and seemingly neglect others. while some brands just fill that specific niche. I use mostly acrylics these days, mostly because i only have a single room appartment and can't have stinky colors there. In acrylics i mostly use Army painter washes, Vallejo model and model air, warcolours (their one coats are a dream and shoot phantastic) and some citadel paints for base coats. I'm pretty content with the vallejo airbrush thinner and flow improver. As for cleaning: Just bog standard high percentage isopropanol.
Fantastic summary. You reaffirmed my experiences, with your expertise and solid assesments. Your presentations always make me feel like I can slowly achieve the same skills and satisfaction with my own models. Long way to go for me yet though.
For cleaning your brushes you should give "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver by General Pencil a try. It is fantastic at cleaning out old gunk from brushes.
Wish I knew what was in these expensive products but of course they never list the ingredients! I’ve heard that ordinary toothpaste and hair conditioner give almost as good results. Currently experimenting with vinegar and ethanol hand disinfectant.
I just made a mash up model using some of your videos to help (armour texture) it was a Porsche 911 with an 88mm flak cannon mounted in the passenger seat. Also had armour taken from an old panther kit I had
Oh nice, I'll definitely try those recommendations. These are my experiences: Primer: Never had problems with the Tamiya spray can primer, but also never tried anything else. Might try Mr.Surfacer as I have not a lot of primer left. Water based: Revell is pretty hit or miss, they have a few pretty good ones and a lot of awful ones. I have had bad experiences with Ammo, as they just were way to thin, maybe I got a bad batch or something. Vallejo is pretty good in my book. Gotta try some more Lifecolor, I only used one for the sponge technique. Hybrid: I love the Tamiya paints! Lacquer: Never really went into lacquers, because of the air brush cleaning aspect. Varnishes: Tamiya worked great for me so far. Gonna try the VMS tho Thinners: Thanks a lot for the recommendations, I have only tried the X-20A so far and I was semi satisified. Cleaning: Mostly IPA. I have bunch of the stuff around here, because of bike suspension services and resin 3D print cleaning, so that's my go to.
Lovely input! Lacquers are easy to clean, you can use IPA just like with hybrids. Tamiya was my favorite varnish for years but VMS really changed my opinion, it's much smoother (or rather, more user-friendly and achieving a perfectly smooth surface is thus much easier). I have a few bottles of alcohol, but I'm keeping them only for my 3D prints and bike cleaning (suspension and drivetrain) 😆 And considering how rare IPA is these days (last March it was sold out everywhere), I don't want to spend too much of it!
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yeah, that's probably a good call with the IPA, I just had a few liters of it laying around ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Now that I think of it, I could've sold it half a year ago for ridiculous prices haha.
Just FYI acetone is not really a problem nowadays, as long as you don't soak it. All good airbrushes use PTFE (White) o-rings in the paint channel and Viton (black) o-rings in the air channel. PTFE has very high resistance and Viton can withstand a few drops of acetone easily. No need to use anything other than acetone or cellulose thinner to clean out hobby lacquers. I never quite understood how the Lifecolor finish is? Is it like Vallejo, all rubber like or is more like a hard resin as in Mr Hobby?
Thank you very much for this helpful video with all these hints - concerning my favorite colour when it f.e. comes to aircraft aluminium colour, there never has been a better product than Heller Humbrols "polished Aluminium", I think. It has been my favorite for years now and its use never ended in a dissapointment. Great stuff!
I have been modelling and figure painting for about 30 years. I started on Humbrol enamels, transitioning through Tamiya and Vellejo as my main paints. I started using Lifecolor about a year ago I love them. I still use all the other brands for various jobs but lifecolor is my new go to. Thanks for the video man.
Brilliant video. Agree almost exactly... Mr Surfacer is by far the best primer... Tamiya with a lacquer or cellulose thinner for air brushing. Plus add a bit of tamiya clear to get a smooth finish. I still use tamiya clear for varnish. Vallejo and games workshop for hand / brush painting, thinned and touch of flow improver. Just tried using exclusively on a model. Vallejo primer is ok if you don't need to sand / polish back, but the Vallejo gloss clear was a disaster. Applying decals with micro set and sol would fetch the gloss off so easily. Great video again 👍👍
Hello, I have a question. I want to start mixing my Tamiya paints with x-22 and lacquer with retarder type. What percentage or ml. of each would you mix into a Tamiya 23ml. bottle?
Nice an informative video . Since you were covering all aspects of painting model tanks I wish youd of talked or suggested what types of glues to use . Your a great model maker an artist too .
Good review and educational on some I haven’t used. Similar experience with Vallejo and it’s primer, pretty much my go to brush paint now once I discovered how nice Mr Color/Hobby and Tamiya spray (especially with Leveling Thinner). Good to know about airbrush seals on Mr Tool Cleaner 😱
That’s alarming! I find that for brush use Vallejo acrylic medium is the best for thinning. Much better than water. It extends the drying time slightly and doesn’t make the paint transparent. Not sure how good it is for airbrush work though.
Oh no. I just got in to the hobby thanks to you and i have a tank ready for painting but as things turned out i bought valejo paints and the useless thinner. Thanks for the warning. I'll definetly get another white for the whitewash i intend to chip.
Primer: AK primer & microfiller is my preferred primer. AK Real Colors and Tamiya for airbrushing. For metal jobs: AK xtreme metal. Varnishes: Tamiya, also AK Real Colors. Brush painting: Vallejo and also AK (old range).
Interesting video, thank you. Very little was said about enamels. There are quite a few of us who use them. Humbrol enamels are my favorite brand. Both brush painting, & airbrushing. Plus i can use hardware store grade thinner, as well as Humbrol brand thinner. Thank you.
At least your opinions are honest. I only wish I could et my hand on the Lifecolor thinner and MRP paints. Anywhere, you forgot to mention about mixing lacquer thinner with acrylic paint (especially Tamiya), works wonderful.
I have humbrol paint from the 1980s and they are still good. I don't really use enamil anymore except a little for washes, mainly pin washed, but I have humbrol tins from when I was 13, which flew with me from Australia to the tropics in Malaysia and back and I stil have them and most of them are still OK. I have Tamiya paints that are also from the late 80s, early 90s - a lot of them are OK, but some not. To be fair I used to thin my Tamiya with water or methylated spirits (methanol with some additives) so those old Tamiya which are not OK may well be contaminated with those things. Anyway my poiint is both Humbro, and Tamiya last for ages - at least the formulas from the 80s and 90s do.
Agree re the Mission Paints, just used the olive drab for the first time and it took several coats to get a decent finish, although still a bit translucent!
Most excellent, im in total agreement w tamiya paints. Havent tried ak, but heard its also fantastic. Valejo is goto for hand psinting, bec its pigment ratio is high. Now if i could figure out hairspray chipping, lol, yea.
"Hi, I'm planning to paint my 3D model and have been researching the best materials to use. Your video has been really helpful, so thank you! I have airbrush equipment and I've decided to go with Mr. Surfacer for the primer. Now I need to choose the paint. I’m aiming to paint my model in white with a smooth, flat, or slightly satin finish. I’d like to use a paint that sprays consistently without clogging. As you know, 3D prints can look tacky and cheap without a good surface finish. Could you recommend a white color? Perhaps with a subtle pearl effect would be also nice. I’m looking for a classy, elegant surface. I’d love to hear your personal opinion!"
I got same thoughts of brush painting with Vallejo. Now moving to AK third gen. Even bright colors works great with brush and they have good color opacity.
Brother - I use even cheaper acrylic paints - Folkart acrylic & Apple Barrel. You get a lot more paint for often 1/3 of the cost. There are a HUGE variety of colors to work with, even though I struggle with figuring out which of their colors match the Tamiya color Uncle Night Shift was using, once I figure it out, or come close - they work well (so far). It sucks that there are other companies out there dwarfed by uber expensive specialized model paint companies which triple the price for less than half the paint. Also - I could have sworn by your accent you were from New Jersey, was totally shocked you weren’t. Just kidding - I recognize the Boston dialect. Keep up the good work and tutorial style. I may use cheaper paints, sometimes but I definitely apply many of your techniques. Thank you!
Valejo primer went to the trash can after the 2nd usage. I was able to prime the models with it but it was so painful and cleaning AB was also a mess. Valejo paints are good for brush painting (especially if you use wet palette so you can get consistency of the paint, however most of the times if I want water based paint I prefer Model Master acrylic paints (not sure if they are available outside of US) since they have (or had till Krylon bought them) good range tied to FS numbers and could be sprayed without too many issues as well. For AB I like Tamiya and Mr Color thinned with Leveling Thinner. Stynilrez is a good primer if you have a model with rough surface but want a smooth finish (err... airliners from Zvezda, aircraft models from Airfix). For whatever reason if you prime Mr. Surface (for priming I use only 1500) sand it and then put a layer of the Tamiya or Mr Color it looks like it reacts slightly with primer and surface gets a bit rough. If you prime Stynilrez and then sand it to make a smooth finish and then put a Tamiya model looks quite smooth.
Very helpful video Martin, especially for beginners. They need this video, I try different paints and find what is good or bad take me an ages and a lot of bad situations, that could be avoided if someone will post video like this earlier. My opinions are similar to yours: Mr hobby surfacer, ak rc/ tamiya for airbrush, lc and vallejo for brush. Btw: I really recommend micro satin varnish, it works like a dream, despite its water-based acrylic.
I've seen a few aircraft modelling friends using it, they especially liked the flat varnish because it dries really flat. VMS is also acrylic based btw.
Very nicely thought video! My experiences with the paints you have mentioned are very similar; the Tamiya primer in the underdog here; the one in the square bottle is very good when diluted with MLT. In my book, the white one is better than any other one. Mr Surfacer Base white it was a disappointment for me.
That's interesting. I use Tamiya X-20A all the time with Tamiya paint and don't usually have any problems. I guess I should try the lacquer one sometime.
I really enjoyed this video. I have always used Vallejo but recently I have been getting into Mission Models and a little bit of tamiya but just for brushing, yeah go figure right. Keep up the great work and all the best.
Good video. I love how you explain your reasoning with MissionModels. Not everyone likes the same paints despite recognizing the quality! I've tried Vallejo myself and I still regret spending my money on it - too hard to work with, dry tips, splattering, etc., while at the same time I love Revell and MiG paints, the latter of which literally caused some people to give me a look on modelling shows! LOL
What i love about your channel: many modellers are fantastic. But the difference between you and them: you can teach!
Agreed,... i learn a lot from him , but still my work result always far beyond Hope.... LoL , trash can friendly hahaha..
Hi! Great info, I have been building models for way to long! Hahaha! I would like to know what is your experience with Testors? I bought loads when I lived in the States 20 years ago and the are still good for the most part. I've not seen any other manufacturers that do metalizer buffable Paints. I'm not even sure Testors is in business anymore. Just wondering if u had any experience with these Paints. Cheers!
The modeler has uploaded again; REJOICE!
I don't think anyone called me "the modeler" before, appreciate that 😆
@@NightShiftScaleModels you really are The Modeller, your models are on an another level!
REJOICE! HE HAS RETURNED!
Martin, my friend, thank you for your passion and your work. As for me, you are the best modeling storyteller I have ever seen and heard.
Thanks a lot!
Love these cut-out videos! Never feel sorry for not putting out actual modelling content, this is just as good and relevant!! They make nice little breaks in between ongoing projects and are just as informative!! Keep doing them, there's so many topics that can be touched upon!!
Not only are you a mega professional modeller, but your English is also absolutely AMAZING!!!
Thanks! It's not perfect, but narrating videos every week helps a lot!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm English and a teacher of English) Believe me, you are heads above manyyyy native speakers; to explain this hobby in clear fine detail in your 2nd language and to inspire thousands of us... Impressive and I'm sure everyone here agrees with me)
The only exception to this is the word...REVELL
Pretended accent is really annoying on other hand
@@NightShiftScaleModels You speak perfect broken english
That MENG tortoise would be an interesting build to watch. I can’t imagine what kind of weathering you could do on such big, flat surface.
This guy is very humble, authentic, and endearing. Thank you for such quality content. I'm a huge, huge fan!
Me too!!
Well said!
My friend, greetings from a USer of Slovakian descent! Absolutely enjoy all your uploads. They contain mountains of information smothered in witty personality. Due to you, I have ordered my first tank model after 60 years of modeling (Tamiya 1/35 King Tiger). Please keep the videos coming sir.
Not only are you a phenomenal modeller but you are a fantastic communicator . Very engaging and easy to listen to . 👍🏼
Without doubt the best tutorial I’ve seen on the general subject of “paint”. You are a natural teacher.
Thanks for your view on the topic. I think everyone has to find his or her personal favourite, but recommendations certainly help shortening the effort one has to make to find it :)
Exactly! Back in my day Vallejo and Vallejo Air were all the rage because Spanish modelers were using them in their magazine articles, and then it was suddenly Tamiya all the way for airbrushing :)
And I gotta admit, back then I immediately found Tamiya paints to be easier to spray than Vallejo.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Few paints is as forgiving to airbrush as just the Tammy paints!
I’m happy you made this! I just got a bunch of Tamiya paints for Christmas. Good to know I made the right choice.
I always had issues with Mr. Surfacer, due to the relative fast drying time. It became thick, already when I sprayed from the can. Solution found: I just put the can into warm water, before using, which made lover viscosity and use it like that.
Martin, thank you so much for this analysis, you are very kind.
I used Vallejo Model Color and Model Air on the company's white primer. I thin all of these with their thinner and they work really well. They don't really need to be thinned but I tend to overpaint, so it's better if I apply the products in multiple, thin layers.
However - the primer needs 48 hours and the paint layers 24 to dry properly, otherwise the polyurethane base will lift and peel just as you report.
Ammo by Mig Jimenez will have their first day out in a couple of days, once the primer on my latest model is dry.
Thanks again for the wonderful work you do. Greetings from Slovenia.
I kept hearing that the primer would peel off like it was made of rubber! I also heard a wargamer say that the primer when airbrushed took 15 minutes to dry and 1-hour brush painted!
I was looking for new paints, this is perfect timing!
So which ones seem good to you after this vid? :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels needed a primer mainly so I'll try and pick up a Mr surfacer. Can't stand cans though, as my Tamiya spray can is uncontrollable and my model was dripping with paint. Ruined the whitewash.
@@tobysellors941 i stopped using Tamiya spray especially on planes. It leaves a pretty thick layer so when removing masking tape, especially around a canopy, it left a mess, like orange peel.
Paint spray cans are really hard to control, seen that several times. But primers are actually pretty good, I used the spray can Mr. Surfacer several times on this channel. You need to apply it with quick passes and let it dry before spraying more, it'll level out beautifully without flooding any details.
@@NightShiftScaleModels awesome! Thanks for the help!
After painting with Tamiya i clean the airbrush with a ordinary window-cleaner and it works perfect. 👍👍👍
i only do brush painting gaming models, but i love vallejo. between the size of the range, price, and availability... its probably the best for my needs
Those AK 3rd gen paints are my new favorites. Thanks for all the info, great as always!
I haven't built a plastic kit in decades. But I do enjoy watching modeling videos. Yours I find very enjoyable simply because you don't take yourself too seriously. It's a hobby unless your are one of the small number of modelers that build professionally. When I was building the variety of paints was far lower. Or maybe the local shop just didn't carry that much. But what l really liked was Floquill.
You’ve reignited my childhood love of models. Thank you
"Model is not a spoon" Is my favorite quote of 2021.
Actually even the chemistry is different.. the adherence and the the results are different on both.... but, yea, who knows.. maybe there is a hobby that turn about painting spoons and we dont know about... you can do nice faces on it hehhe
"There is no spoon."
Regarding chipping being harder with lacquers and specifically with MRP, it is true but only for the standard method. Using a standard brush with water over MRP with chipping fluid won't do much unless you rub really hard. From my perspective that's an advantage as now, you can deliberately chip the surface with scribers and other things such as fiberglass pens with much finer detail similar to what you can do with painting it while being able to create unique effects.
Very informative. I'm just starting model painting again. Last time as a kid with humbrols or any kind of paint I could get hold of, sometimes with.. interesting results.
Glad to see someone else endorising exact same 3 favorite brands. Tamiya, Lifecolor and Mr. Hobby. Can't go wrong.. The only downside of Lifecolor is they're somewhat hard to find at full range, and the Italian store selling them charges 15 euros for shipping where the set itself cost 18....so yeah, no. Most of mine came from ebay for some reasonable prices.
This channel is so good, probably the best modelling videos on RUclips in my opinion! Considering how good the community is, maybe there could be a community awards episode for the anniversary of the channel? People could vote on their favourite models of Martin's and their favourite models posted by other community members in various categories. Just a suggestion. Stay awesome :)
I like Tamiya , but recently have been using AK 3gen, taken a bit to get the mixing ratio right but now am really liking them. Thanks for your video.
man you have such a nice happy energy. thanks for the overview, very helpful.
From the models I see in the background, I would like to see you building that Trumpeter T-35.
That's a beautiful kit with amazing details, also very accurate!
Thanks for your opinion - I am going to experiment more.
Das Werk Panther in the back... very nice :D
Soon, hopefully? :D
Excellent timing! I am just getting back into scale modelling after almost 30 years (how things have changed!), and was just starting to research this stuff. Thank you!
Awesome! Then you might find the next video helpful as well!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm very much looking forward to it!
Ditto. Back in the 1980s it was Humbrol enamels all the way; very hard to buy anything else. I still have some of my old brushes and they look like the fur of a flea-bitten mongrel. Acrylics are so much more user-friendly. Yet oddly, I miss the old Humbrol smell.
There are lots of paint choices out there Martin. I agree with you on the Mission Models paints. I rarely hear anyone rave about them, It's mostly failed attempts and tears... lol! I've always relied on Tamiya, AK, Vallejo, and Gunze for the best results. I've also had good success (like you said) thinning AK acrylics and Vallejos with MLT. Thanks for posting your thoughts. Cheers!
That boxes with models behind you looks so cool. Hope 2021 is going to be someway better ;D ,but thankfully we have your videos.
It's my new default filming backdrop :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels Very nice :D
Fantastic, really appreciate this video, i understand it may seem obvious to many, but for us noobs its amazingly informative, look forward to more tutorials like this.
You need to test AK712 acrylic thinner, are amazing and work with all paints, included Tamiya Acrylic hybrid.
I agree with almost everything you said. Big fan of Tamiya. Can't stand Vallejo. My rule of thumb for using Mr. Surfacer, is; the smaller the scale the higher number of Mr. Surfacer you should use. 1/48 use 1000, 1/72 use 1500 etc... Glad to see you back after the holiday.
FYI for those that don’t know, UMP primer is also the same as Stylenrez and One Shot
Except it's sold by jabba the hutt.
Faaaaantastic. I’m new to modelling, and have purchase Tamiya paints. They seem a nightmare with all the mixing/thinners etc but videos from professionals like yourself are great.
Just ramping myself up to get back into it after 30 odd years.........cleared out the spare room for a work space, got a couple of kits, got the sounds ready, got the compressor with a starter airbrush, got the Tamiya super thin glue, got the superfine tweezers, sanding sticks and putty on order and................
Vallejo paints!!!! Bugger!!.... very good video though .......
This video is really important and useful video for lots of modelers. Thanks for your nice videos Martin.
I could learned lots of things from you.
We call the Mr. Color Lacquer Leveling Thinner "Unicorn Tears." :)
I'm a lacquer guy. Mainly because it's so forgiving when it comes to thinning for airbrushing. Also no tip drying issues. Another neat thing is that if your coat of paint has a flaw, you can actually reactivate it with a tiny bit of thinner. It never really "cures" like acrylics do.
Thanks for this Uncle Nightshift.I could make pretty eduucated guesses about most of these from watching your videos ;) but it was nice to hear you say it and be certain.
and thanks for the tip on Vallejo and chipping.
That's what I needed! I was just thinking about buying some paints, as I recently got back to modeling after... well, to many years, and I didn't know which paints to buy, which are good, etc. - and boom! Uncle Night Shift posts a video exactly on that subject! :D
Thank You, Uncle Night Shift :D
Probably I have solution of yellowed or browned (?) AK RC's Matt varnish. I have same problem with Tamiya matt varnish, I filled the bottle with mr.hobby leveling thinner, after few months the varnish was looking like yours. It's probably caused by oxidizing thinner by air over the paint in bottle. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Edit : 11:40
I agree 100%. Tamiya for airbrush. They smell a little bit but they work fantastic.
Glad to hear that I'm no the only one who doesn't get on with Mig paints, though the primer is great. Had mixed results with Life color - had some beautiful finishes with it but struggled to get details to work because it would just spider everywhere. Hataka is the easiest pure acrylic I've used and I'm using it now. It sprays easily and goes on exactly as you intended it to. Lacquers give a great finish and are easy to use but moving away from them for health reasons.
An excellent tutorial Martin. Thanks for such an info-dense video. There's a lot to digest there!
Hey Martin! Great class on model paint fundamentals. Really appreciate that you cleared up some basic rules, given all the mediums available to modelers today.
Great vid. Very helpful indeed. I agree 💯 on the Mr. Surfacer Primers. I usually buy the cans when I can't find the jars at my LHS and decant them into bottles right away. Less waste and you don't have to thin them for your airbrush. Keep up the good work brother!
I JUST bought an airbrush and compressor, so this video could not have been more timely. Thank you! Very informative and cool.
Which one did you buy? I’m a beginner and there’s soooo many to choose!
@@Movingpath compressor: NO-NAME brand Master Blaster II, from Spray Gunner. Airbrush: badger patriot (I think). Not cheap, but not crazy expensive like Iwata. I still haven't received it and it's my first foray, so I don't know if I can recommend it yet. We'll see.
I bought one too, in the Black Friday sales. A non-branded Chinese model. Most important to get a compressor with an attached air tank which evens out the airflow and means the pump is not working all the time. Quite bulky but adds only $15-$20 to the price. Altogether I paid about $100 for airbrush + compressor with bottle.
@@abcgefp thanks for the reply. I was looking at Iwata ones but I’ll have a look at badger too thanks again :)
@@sirrathersplendid4825 that was a good deal! Thanks for the information
I've tried all the paints for airbrushing and keep going back to Tamiya and Gunze Mr. Color. Just can't beat those two brands with Mr. Leveling Thinner.
Exactly. Haven't tried Gunze myself although aircraft modellers love them, which means they must be super smooth. They also come in H and C ranges, but I have no idea which one is which, I guess one is pure lacquer and the other is something like Tamiya.
@@NightShiftScaleModels The new Tamiya lacquers are not compatible with the Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner. The Mr. Levelling causes the paint to actually get thicker and sprays a really coarse powdery rough paint. Best stick with the Tamiya lacquer thinner.
Gunze airbrushes just fine. I thin with Tamiya 20A or iso- alcohol. The Gunze RAL Luftwaffe colors seem very accurate and are easy to use. I use Tamiya for armor kits. See no reason to change.
Challenge: Please try ”Revell” one more time.
Sounds like a good challenge :D
No! Hahahahaha
I would love to see Revell Type VII/C in 1/72. Pretty please uncle :D
I'd go with a Revell plane or helicopter. Not so sure about their tanks.
@@ScottKenny1978 I've build the "new" uh-1c from revell last month and the fitment was horrible, i don't know if all the helli's from revell are the same, but avoid this one
Thanks Martin, my modelling skills are ok but always stress about paint, mixing and thinners and what is compatible. This has helped.
Nice always good to find out about some different products. I will definitely try out the VMS Varnish, I've been struggling with the Vallejo varnishes for a while now.
Good opinions about your paints you use .What I don´t understand your problems with Tamiyas Primercan ,I use it all the time I don´t wash my models all the time .And it set optimal no orangepeel and never gone off. I use white majorly and also grey and primer red and I am very amazed of the result .For black priming I use spraila matt black spray this one is very cheap and big cans and it never fails also .With paints I fully agree with you .Tamiya is best paint for decades.With the new retader you also able to paint them by brush and with airbrush you got a smoother surface .Good to see they got an new thinner also with retarder inside I need to have a look at my local shop for it .For the acrylic stuff I use the same stuff as you do .I totally agree with your opinion in all casses .For cleaning I use Mig perfect cleaner at least good stuff as well .After I use my Airbush I give it a shot with Balistol spray this prefend the needle to stuck if I don´t use it for a while .
Some color pigments are just naturally translucent. Most notably pure yellow, red, blue and purple. And that is normally independent of the medium they are suspended in (acrylic, alcohol, enamel or oil). the best way to counter that is to undercoat with that specific color and a little white added. or you take colors that are similar to the tone. light ochre or sand for yellow.
I'm by now also pretty brand agnostic. I use what works and some companies produce a great colors and seemingly neglect others. while some brands just fill that specific niche.
I use mostly acrylics these days, mostly because i only have a single room appartment and can't have stinky colors there. In acrylics i mostly use Army painter washes, Vallejo model and model air, warcolours (their one coats are a dream and shoot phantastic) and some citadel paints for base coats. I'm pretty content with the vallejo airbrush thinner and flow improver. As for cleaning: Just bog standard high percentage isopropanol.
Fantastic summary. You reaffirmed my experiences, with your expertise and solid assesments. Your presentations always make me feel like I can slowly achieve the same skills and satisfaction with my own models. Long way to go for me yet though.
Yep, I had the same experience with Mission Models paints. Good video. Good old Tamiya paints. The gold Standard.
For cleaning your brushes you should give "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver by General Pencil a try. It is fantastic at cleaning out old gunk from brushes.
^ this ^
Wish I knew what was in these expensive products but of course they never list the ingredients!
I’ve heard that ordinary toothpaste and hair conditioner give almost as good results. Currently experimenting with vinegar and ethanol hand disinfectant.
I just made a mash up model using some of your videos to help (armour texture) it was a Porsche 911 with an 88mm flak cannon mounted in the passenger seat. Also had armour taken from an old panther kit I had
Sounds like a car from Death Race :)
FINNALY IVE BEEN SEARCHING A PAINT GUIDE!!!!
Oh nice, I'll definitely try those recommendations.
These are my experiences:
Primer: Never had problems with the Tamiya spray can primer, but also never tried anything else. Might try Mr.Surfacer as I have not a lot of primer left.
Water based: Revell is pretty hit or miss, they have a few pretty good ones and a lot of awful ones. I have had bad experiences with Ammo, as they just were way to thin, maybe I got a bad batch or something. Vallejo is pretty good in my book. Gotta try some more Lifecolor, I only used one for the sponge technique.
Hybrid: I love the Tamiya paints!
Lacquer: Never really went into lacquers, because of the air brush cleaning aspect.
Varnishes: Tamiya worked great for me so far. Gonna try the VMS tho
Thinners: Thanks a lot for the recommendations, I have only tried the X-20A so far and I was semi satisified.
Cleaning: Mostly IPA. I have bunch of the stuff around here, because of bike suspension services and resin 3D print cleaning, so that's my go to.
Lovely input!
Lacquers are easy to clean, you can use IPA just like with hybrids. Tamiya was my favorite varnish for years but VMS really changed my opinion, it's much smoother (or rather, more user-friendly and achieving a perfectly smooth surface is thus much easier).
I have a few bottles of alcohol, but I'm keeping them only for my 3D prints and bike cleaning (suspension and drivetrain) 😆 And considering how rare IPA is these days (last March it was sold out everywhere), I don't want to spend too much of it!
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yeah, that's probably a good call with the IPA, I just had a few liters of it laying around ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Now that I think of it, I could've sold it half a year ago for ridiculous prices haha.
My armour and sci fi builds are coming along nicely thanks to your tutorial and explanations ,thank you Mr Nightshift 😊
Just FYI acetone is not really a problem nowadays, as long as you don't soak it.
All good airbrushes use PTFE (White) o-rings in the paint channel and Viton (black) o-rings in the air channel.
PTFE has very high resistance and Viton can withstand a few drops of acetone easily.
No need to use anything other than acetone or cellulose thinner to clean out hobby lacquers.
I never quite understood how the Lifecolor finish is? Is it like Vallejo, all rubber like or is more like a hard resin as in Mr Hobby?
Lifecolor and true Earth...specially his filters: I found them very practical for color modulation and washes....
Thanks for the video Martin!
Thank you very much for this helpful video with all these hints - concerning my favorite colour when it f.e. comes to aircraft aluminium colour, there never has been a better product than Heller Humbrols "polished Aluminium", I think. It has been my favorite for years now and its use never ended in a dissapointment. Great stuff!
I have been modelling and figure painting for about 30 years. I started on Humbrol enamels, transitioning through Tamiya and Vellejo as my main paints. I started using Lifecolor about a year ago I love them. I still use all the other brands for various jobs but lifecolor is my new go to. Thanks for the video man.
Thanks for making this video, really helps a lot as I’ve started to look beyond Tamiya for stuff to paint my models!
Glad you mentioned life color. My local hobby shop has them and i need a good brushable paint.
I really appreciate your channel! Keep up up the good work!
I like Tamiya paints for airbrushing and Vallejo for brush painting.
100th episode!!! Keep up the amazing work, Martin!
Brilliant video. Agree almost exactly... Mr Surfacer is by far the best primer... Tamiya with a lacquer or cellulose thinner for air brushing. Plus add a bit of tamiya clear to get a smooth finish. I still use tamiya clear for varnish. Vallejo and games workshop for hand / brush painting, thinned and touch of flow improver. Just tried using exclusively on a model. Vallejo primer is ok if you don't need to sand / polish back, but the Vallejo gloss clear was a disaster. Applying decals with micro set and sol would fetch the gloss off so easily. Great video again 👍👍
Hello, I have a question. I want to start mixing my Tamiya paints with x-22 and lacquer with retarder type. What percentage or ml. of each would you mix into a Tamiya 23ml. bottle?
Nice an informative video . Since you were covering all aspects of painting model tanks I wish youd of talked or suggested what types of glues to use . Your a great model maker an artist too .
Good review and educational on some I haven’t used. Similar experience with Vallejo and it’s primer, pretty much my go to brush paint now once I discovered how nice Mr Color/Hobby and Tamiya spray (especially with Leveling Thinner). Good to know about airbrush seals on Mr Tool Cleaner 😱
I've had the vallejo paints "cuagulate" when I used isopropyl alcohol to thin them. using water was just fine
Yes, had exactly the same same. Just turns to glue, luckily I mixed in plastic mixing cup and not in my airbrush cup.
That’s alarming! I find that for brush use Vallejo acrylic medium is the best for thinning. Much better than water. It extends the drying time slightly and doesn’t make the paint transparent. Not sure how good it is for airbrush work though.
Thin with floor polish. It adds an acrylic polyurethane that smoothes out the spray and adds hardness and adhesion.
Oh no. I just got in to the hobby thanks to you and i have a tank ready for painting but as things turned out i bought valejo paints and the useless thinner.
Thanks for the warning. I'll definetly get another white for the whitewash i intend to chip.
Thanks for this. I couldn’t find a description of AK’s Real Colors under any eBay shopping site. Didn’t feel like going to their home page.
I have a question, where do you buy your Wilder products?
Especially the Aqualine series.
Or does Wilder no longer produce?
Thank you for a reply
with the vallejo yellow, I find the trick is you have to paint up to it, so orange, orange yellow, golden yellow and then lemon yellow.
Primer: AK primer & microfiller is my preferred primer.
AK Real Colors and Tamiya for airbrushing. For metal jobs: AK xtreme metal.
Varnishes: Tamiya, also AK Real Colors.
Brush painting: Vallejo and also AK (old range).
Interesting video, thank you. Very little was said about enamels. There are quite a few of us who use them. Humbrol enamels are my favorite brand. Both brush painting, & airbrushing. Plus i can use hardware store grade thinner, as well as Humbrol brand thinner. Thank you.
At least your opinions are honest. I only wish I could et my hand on the Lifecolor thinner and MRP paints. Anywhere, you forgot to mention about mixing lacquer thinner with acrylic paint (especially Tamiya), works wonderful.
I have humbrol paint from the 1980s and they are still good. I don't really use enamil anymore except a little for washes, mainly pin washed, but I have humbrol tins from when I was 13, which flew with me from Australia to the tropics in Malaysia and back and I stil have them and most of them are still OK.
I have Tamiya paints that are also from the late 80s, early 90s - a lot of them are OK, but some not. To be fair I used to thin my Tamiya with water or methylated spirits (methanol with some additives) so those old Tamiya which are not OK may well be contaminated with those things.
Anyway my poiint is both Humbro, and Tamiya last for ages - at least the formulas from the 80s and 90s do.
Agree re the Mission Paints, just used the olive drab for the first time and it took several coats to get a decent finish, although still a bit translucent!
Most excellent, im in total agreement w tamiya paints. Havent tried ak, but heard its also fantastic. Valejo is goto for hand psinting, bec its pigment ratio is high. Now if i could figure out hairspray chipping, lol, yea.
Remember that they changed the AK Real Color formula and they are now pure lacquers, not hybrids they were at first :)
Another useful and entertaining video. Thank you, Martin.
Excellent overview of what's out there. Unbiased & fair. Nice one 👍👍👍
"Hi, I'm planning to paint my 3D model and have been researching the best materials to use. Your video has been really helpful, so thank you! I have airbrush equipment and I've decided to go with Mr. Surfacer for the primer. Now I need to choose the paint. I’m aiming to paint my model in white with a smooth, flat, or slightly satin finish. I’d like to use a paint that sprays consistently without clogging. As you know, 3D prints can look tacky and cheap without a good surface finish. Could you recommend a white color? Perhaps with a subtle pearl effect would be also nice. I’m looking for a classy, elegant surface. I’d love to hear your personal opinion!"
I got same thoughts of brush painting with Vallejo. Now moving to AK third gen. Even bright colors works great with brush and they have good color opacity.
Brother - I use even cheaper acrylic paints - Folkart acrylic & Apple Barrel. You get a lot more paint for often 1/3 of the cost. There are a HUGE variety of colors to work with, even though I struggle with figuring out which of their colors match the Tamiya color Uncle Night Shift was using, once I figure it out, or come close - they work well (so far). It sucks that there are other companies out there dwarfed by uber expensive specialized model paint companies which triple the price for less than half the paint.
Also - I could have sworn by your accent you were from New Jersey, was totally shocked you weren’t. Just kidding - I recognize the Boston dialect. Keep up the good work and tutorial style. I may use cheaper paints, sometimes but I definitely apply many of your techniques. Thank you!
Valejo primer went to the trash can after the 2nd usage. I was able to prime the models with it but it was so painful and cleaning AB was also a mess.
Valejo paints are good for brush painting (especially if you use wet palette so you can get consistency of the paint, however most of the times if I want water based paint I prefer Model Master acrylic paints (not sure if they are available outside of US) since they have (or had till Krylon bought them) good range tied to FS numbers and could be sprayed without too many issues as well.
For AB I like Tamiya and Mr Color thinned with Leveling Thinner.
Stynilrez is a good primer if you have a model with rough surface but want a smooth finish (err... airliners from Zvezda, aircraft models from Airfix). For whatever reason if you prime Mr. Surface (for priming I use only 1500) sand it and then put a layer of the Tamiya or Mr Color it looks like it reacts slightly with primer and surface gets a bit rough. If you prime Stynilrez and then sand it to make a smooth finish and then put a Tamiya model looks quite smooth.
Very helpful video Martin, especially for beginners. They need this video, I try different paints and find what is good or bad take me an ages and a lot of bad situations, that could be avoided if someone will post video like this earlier.
My opinions are similar to yours: Mr hobby surfacer, ak rc/ tamiya for airbrush, lc and vallejo for brush.
Btw: I really recommend micro satin varnish, it works like a dream, despite its water-based acrylic.
I've seen a few aircraft modelling friends using it, they especially liked the flat varnish because it dries really flat. VMS is also acrylic based btw.
Thank you Martin. That was very helpful. Happy New Year
Very nicely thought video! My experiences with the paints you have mentioned are very similar; the Tamiya primer in the underdog here; the one in the square bottle is very good when diluted with MLT. In my book, the white one is better than any other one. Mr Surfacer Base white it was a disappointment for me.
That's interesting. I use Tamiya X-20A all the time with Tamiya paint and don't usually have any problems. I guess I should try the lacquer one sometime.
I really enjoyed this video. I have always used Vallejo but recently I have been getting into Mission Models and a little bit of tamiya but just for brushing, yeah go figure right. Keep up the great work and all the best.
About to watch this. I ordered a Airfix starter kit two days ago and I'm pumped
Good video. I love how you explain your reasoning with MissionModels. Not everyone likes the same paints despite recognizing the quality!
I've tried Vallejo myself and I still regret spending my money on it - too hard to work with, dry tips, splattering, etc., while at the same time I love Revell and MiG paints, the latter of which literally caused some people to give me a look on modelling shows! LOL
I spent the first minute nosying at all of your kits and had to rewind because i didn't listen to a word you said 😂😂