Bonus video for you guys this week! Since I only have the final reveal of my Panzer III in North Africa diorama for you this weekend, I figured I would also give you guys a tutorial on weathering US Olive Drab. This topic has been requested so much! Enjoy :) ALSO......my build review on why you SHOULD NOT buy this kit: ruclips.net/video/eDJgGrIl_is/видео.html
I picked up modeling about 6 months ago during lockdown as a bit of a hobby, your videos have helped me so much and I am really seeing alot of progress in my models. Your videos are cleare, concise and you actually have a nice relaxing voice to listen to. I hope you read this because I really want to say thank you for putting up such amazing and easy to follow content. Bravo Sir!
You are about the best with armor. Very well explained and demonstrated. Your a very good instructor. The out come is as real as you can get it. I just started getting back into modeling after about 45 years. I watch as many videos as I can. Yours has been the most realistic and easiest one. Thanks for your time and knowledge of paint
Am i the only one who likes the way the surfaces look after covering them with hairspray? It looks so realistic. Not too dull, not too shiny. Just perfect realistic paint on metal effect. Especially textured surfaces pop out so much after applying hairspray.
Finally found a decent video on realistic painting! Most of the ones I've come across are painted how people "think" it should look, lot on realism. Chipping to down shiny metal, loads and loads of rust (they're not sat in a junkyard for 20 years), especially in inappropriate places, color modulation etc. Some of the results look good, artistically, but they don't look realistic. I'm not sure if I made the term up or heard it somewhere, but I call them "hyper-realistic".
In the past I've seemingly had Microsol and other setting solutions react with the actual paint on the model causing stains or darkening, which is frustrating. And so using gloss varnishes to seal in the paint job does give me peace of mind that the paint job is protected when applying decals. Plus it doubles to help pin washes etc run better into details. There is so many variables with all these things though that it's worth trying with and without a varnish to see what suits you better. Great vid as always!
I do agree with you! People often ask me if they should varnish between each step and my response usually goes: "you don't have to, and I don't, BUT there is no real harm in applying the varnishes just to make you feel more comfortable." I use Tamiya paints which are super durable (pretty much as durable as any varnish) so I rarely varnish...I will only apply one to change the surface finish (as you saw with the satin varnish before the wash). I won't apply "protective' varnishes since in my own workflow, those just slow me down and feel unnecessary.
Uses tamiyas setter straight on the original paint for a year, my take on it is that is softens the paint/decal and that the mild corrosive action setts the decal in the paint to some degree. The staing might be. Reaction with The paint that you use.
Very nice work, fantastic tutorial! US Olive Drab did wear quickly and become shiny from crew traffic - it did not chip nearly as bad as German and Russian armour. Their white markings however, where very durable and typically did not wear to the degree you have depicted but YOUR model, YOUR choice, lol 👍 One thing I dont recommend though, is soaking your decals - it washes away the glue and can cause adhesion issues. I prefer to soak them 10-15 seconds then leave them on a paper towel until the glue is activated and they will slide off the backing paper - adhere better and helps reduce silvering. And, yes, much prefer satin, or even matte varnish for washes. Thanks for the video!
Beautifully done Panzer , haven't seen this one before , Sherman's didn't really chip , but this very subtle wearing effect works perfectly , will definitely try this out on Tamiyas new M18 Hellcat. Best Edward.
Very cool to watch and you described the process of weathering well. Having seen the actual after effects in person but not knowing how to put it into words, I think you got it right: certain parts that have seen heavy use are buffed down. Like they were inadvertently polished by the crew and the gear bouncing around. So still the same paint, just catching light in different ways. Very cool. And nice masking too! Awesome trick for home made stars.
Good stuff, Evan. I used to apply a gloss to my kits for weathering, specifically washes, but have since stopped doing that. Sometimes I add some Tamiya X-22, Gloss Clear, to my paint mix to give it a satin sheen when applied. It seems to work pretty well and makes washes flow much better without absobing into the ultra-flat finish that Tamiya flats provide. I have also gotten some semi-gloss acrylic clear to use as my pre-weathering finish. Another great video, and the OD weathering is great.
Washes are magical. I uses them on Gunpla all the time. I'm watching tank weathering vids because you guys are the pros in comparison to the typical Gunpla fan.
Used this technique (today) for the first time... didn't go 100% according to plan as the upper tone came-away at some points in largish chunks, but by re applying the paint through an Uschi Von Der Rosten splatter mask, then it all came-out good ! Best from New Zealand.
Good recovery! I should look into getting some of those masks. I think you got large chunks peeling off as the chipping fluid/hairspray was applied too heavily. A couple of thin mists is all you need.
@@Panzermeister36 - Oh yeah, that's exactly what happened, also using AK's new(ish) 3rd Gen water based acrylics and they aren't as resilient as the (tried & tested) Tamiya acrylics. The Uschi masks are very good, I use them mainly on aircraft builds but they're an excellent way of getting tonal variety into AFV builds aswell.
Just found your channel. I love the fact you give detailed explanations and reasons for what you recommend and why. Practical and inspirational. +1 sub.
This video is great! I just scored the "Victory Kiss" limited Sherman kit from Meng:) thank you very much for your explanation. Greetings from Germany and happy holidays!
Excellent job on the markings. I concur using the satin. To me, a gloss finish seems to make the wash "float"; I think I would say. I get better results, myself; using satin. Nice to see someone else coming to that conclusion. The paints and primer used on the real vehicles were state of the art for that day and time. Wartime deprivation did not affect the US the way it did all of the European countries and Japan. Good job and very good insight!
I literally just finished doing some fine dusting on a M4A3 a few hours ago. Wish I had seen this video. I've been struggling to find a good way to weather Olive Drab since it rarely chips. Seems like distressing the paintjob through hairspray technique and using sponge chipping of a darker color really gives a convincing effect. Thanks for sharing!
Great video Panzermeister people always talk about the hair spray technique but this is the best demo that I have seen, got to give it a try now, thank you.
Thank you for another excellent tutorial video. I can see how this could work on Commonwealth armoured vehicles as well that were painted with SCC15 Olive Drab. I think it would look great on a Firefly!
Fantastic tutorial! Not sure if I was imagining things but your explanations felt even more extensive and precise than usual. Loving it. Thank you for your great work.
Great vid and well timed too. Superb OD and never considered just 'buffing' pant with a sander for decals... have to give that test on some scrap first I think, and taking a sander to some nice paint is the stuff of nightmares. Great vid, thanks for sharing.
I haven't had the sanding sponge wear through the top layers of paint with my technique here. I use 1200 grit and only polish for 30-60 seconds...until the surface is clearly smooth, but not perfectly shiny. "Good enough" usually does it for me :)
Great timing for me. I have an Easy 8 waiting after this Hurricane build I'm doing. I'll use these tips for my weathering as I like the results. Cheers!
The tutorial is done in a really good pace and I can catch most, if not all, of what you are teaching just by watching it once. 1 question, right at the end after the wash is completed, do you seal it all in with another matte top coat? If not, is it a necessary step in your opinion? Thanks!
Panzermeister36 good work and great techniques, you pretty much have the chipping methods down to a tee, top notch weathering i completely agree about the satin varnish got to stock up on it, thank you for sharing.
The kit I used in a bad Dragon one. I would NOT recommend it. Asuka/Tasca Shermans are much better. But if you want to see, here is my build review: ruclips.net/video/eDJgGrIl_is/видео.html
@@Panzermeister36 Thx buddy I will check that out I have 3 dragon 76MM Wet HVSS Old and Thunder Bolt VII. Cool recommendations , I agree I have a couple of tamiyas and ASUKA's . Right on What do you think of the RFM 76mm HVSS ? Your build on the dragon looked solid , weathering is beautiful. I know the fit on that dragon was tough. Thank you again
Good job on the decals, I have never seen a need to apply gloss coat before the decal never had a problem with silvering, I have a bottle of solvaset that I have been using for over 20 years.
I've never had much success when it comes to durability using any Acrylic Primers. I had to strip a Jagdpanther one time after using MM Acryl Primer. I've also used Vallejo's Primer and none seem durable. I'm yet to try the Ammo Of Mig's but I find their paints not very durable. Nice work on the Sherman, finally got around to watching this one.
The AMMO primer is not actually an AMMO product. It's rebranded Badger Stynylrez which is an excellent primer. I agree AMMO acrylics are weak...but this primer is great.
Just found you from Dave. I model trains and I am looking for techniques that I can apply to my trains and cars. i like the washes technique. Of course I am not going to paint my trains green, even though, some cars are green.
I learned a lot from watching this. If I only had more time to make more models. I used to work for Alberto Culver and was able to get free hairspray and all. That was before I got back into modeling. Darn!
I've just watched your video and I'm pretty impressed with the final finish, however I don't understand why you applied the two base colors. I don't see how they influenced the final appearance, especially the red tones in the beginning. Please explain.
Hi, it's nice work as usual. Anyway, I think how many types are there deterioration of paint ? Is it by sunshine, rain, wind and more ? I'm looking forward to North Africa video. Thank you !!
Panzermeister, thank you very much for taking the time out to do these videos I love them all and they are a big help to me. Just one question on this particular build at the end do you add a flat coat to seal things in?.
I do not apply matte varnishes at the end as it can ruin certain weathering effects. I just have to be careful when handling it but the weathering dries on quite strong on its own. I'll apply matte at some point about halfway through weathering, not at the end.
I know this comment was directed at Panzermeister rather than me, but thank you for the compliment on the music. I had Carpenter in mind when I was writing that piece of music, lol. The whole soundtrack of the short film it's from (Angel of the City) has that kind of vibe.
Will you continue further on this project with US OD on the Sherman? Great detail , straight forward Cool. Good tips , subtle chipping , I like that on US Vehicles
@@Panzermeister36 No worries mate!! Cool vids I enjoy your style I am currently working a kit bashed Tamiya jumbo , redesign Following your work I am currently using AK water colour pencils for subtle chipping , slight washes
@@Panzermeister36 So far they are great, I need more range of colors on them Need to purchase more Lol Model monster ..... In all they are working excellent
Excellent video Evan. I really like how you did the wear on the olive drab, very effective. Did you get a new editing program? Things seem different... in a good way.
thank you - just getting back into model making - what else is there to do with Omicron approaching - there are some superb tips and protocols clearly explained here - plan to use your approach to finish off my Tamiya Cromwell IV
Nice! This will help with any US armour projects in the future, however, when it comes to 'olive drab is olive drab' I would agree for US vehicles, but if you are building a British vehicle or a US vehicle in British service, it is not. The British did use a version of olive drab called SCC 15 but is is paler and less saturated than US olive drab, when you look at the two side by side, there is a visible difference!
I meant OD on US vehicles. When it comes to OD on vehicles given as lend lease to the Soviets or as aid to the Commonwealth....well then that becomes a mess :)
No, I don't need to. Tamiya Paints are very durable so I am not worried about them coming off the primer. If I were using weaker paints like AMMO or AK acrylics, then I might seal it...
Very nice tutorial, you forgot the large star on the engine deck. While most of the time they were covered up with stowage, they were there to prevent friendly fire from allied pilots who were prone to shoot anything that moved.
Hey. I’ve got a Sherman Firefly in the mail to me so this was super useful thanks. I’m brush painting atm as I’m just getting started and was wondering, I’ve got acrylic matt varnish will that work ok for the weathering stage? I’ll be using the same Tamiya acrylic paints as you but for both the base coat and throughout the other stages of painting. Can I still use the hairspray technique if I apply a coat of varnish over the base layer? That way when I apply the thinner to active the spray it’ll just show the base colour and the varnish will protect it? Will the matt varnish work alright for the wash too or should I consider a gloss if I can’t find satin?
Dear Evan; If we use normal Acrylic thinner in Tamiya paints, will it replace the X20 A? Also, how do you calculate the paint mixing ratios? So you're calculating drops? And, how do you determine the main color of the model? According to the suggestion in the booklet or how? Thank's a lot..
I'm not sure if normal acrylic thinner will work. Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based, when most others are water-based. Mixing ratios, I just estimate. You could use drops or anything else; the ratio is always the same so the colour will be the same. I determine the colour based off of reference photos and books I have. There's a lot of good information about this on the Internet.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you for your answer. I'm new so I can ask you a lot of questions, sorry. I see that painting is very important. In any case, it is something that will be learned with time and trial and error. Can you just do a video on paint? Along with the reference picture.. And the shading and tonal transitions.. Or if you made such a video, I may not have found it.
Man ... I'm going to be very honest. I never liked or was struck by the sherman tank, but after seeing the initial images in your video, I'm going to have to change my attitude. I think I have somewhere an old, very old (Probably from the '70s) Tamiya kit, unarmed, from a Sherman, I think I'm going to look for it.
Hey m8 just a question, first of all like your work, about the chipping effect, you using a darker colour under the lighter basecoat, so should the chipping colour not be lighter then the basecoat or does it need to be darker, just trying to learn more about it, thanks.
In this case I used a darker chipping colour for the wear on olive drab. That's how I would do it on American tanks. But on Russian or German tanks you can chip it differently...for example I'll chip using a red primer colour on German tanks which is not always darker than the camouflage.
Just a question the last clear coat on your models do you use a flat or semi gloss. I have seen the real vehicles in the war museum and for the most part they do seem to have a bit of a gloss to them thanks
I usually use flat for the final cost since it makes them look a little dirty and faded and natural. A slight gloss might make them look toy-like. Museums are generally not 100% accurate in how they paint their tanks during restoration, so you should take what paints you see there with a grain of salt.
Bonus video for you guys this week! Since I only have the final reveal of my Panzer III in North Africa diorama for you this weekend, I figured I would also give you guys a tutorial on weathering US Olive Drab. This topic has been requested so much! Enjoy :)
ALSO......my build review on why you SHOULD NOT buy this kit: ruclips.net/video/eDJgGrIl_is/видео.html
Hoped to get something like that ;)
I picked up modeling about 6 months ago during lockdown as a bit of a hobby, your videos have helped me so much and I am really seeing alot of progress in my models. Your videos are cleare, concise and you actually have a nice relaxing voice to listen to. I hope you read this because I really want to say thank you for putting up such amazing and easy to follow content. Bravo Sir!
You are about the best with armor. Very well explained and demonstrated. Your a very good instructor. The out come is as real as you can get it. I just started getting back into modeling after about 45 years. I watch as many videos as I can. Yours has been the most realistic and easiest one. Thanks for your time and knowledge of paint
Am i the only one who likes the way the surfaces look after covering them with hairspray? It looks so realistic. Not too dull, not too shiny. Just perfect realistic paint on metal effect. Especially textured surfaces pop out so much after applying hairspray.
Very nice olive drab! It is also interesting to see that even we have various chipping fluids, hairspray is still handy.
thank you so much. I am new to this hobby and this tank is my first project. Great tips and i am less anxious about it now. 😁
Finally found a decent video on realistic painting! Most of the ones I've come across are painted how people "think" it should look, lot on realism. Chipping to down shiny metal, loads and loads of rust (they're not sat in a junkyard for 20 years), especially in inappropriate places, color modulation etc. Some of the results look good, artistically, but they don't look realistic. I'm not sure if I made the term up or heard it somewhere, but I call them "hyper-realistic".
You do such a great job with narration. Appreciate your insight
Thank you!
In the past I've seemingly had Microsol and other setting solutions react with the actual paint on the model causing stains or darkening, which is frustrating. And so using gloss varnishes to seal in the paint job does give me peace of mind that the paint job is protected when applying decals. Plus it doubles to help pin washes etc run better into details. There is so many variables with all these things though that it's worth trying with and without a varnish to see what suits you better.
Great vid as always!
I do agree with you! People often ask me if they should varnish between each step and my response usually goes: "you don't have to, and I don't, BUT there is no real harm in applying the varnishes just to make you feel more comfortable." I use Tamiya paints which are super durable (pretty much as durable as any varnish) so I rarely varnish...I will only apply one to change the surface finish (as you saw with the satin varnish before the wash). I won't apply "protective' varnishes since in my own workflow, those just slow me down and feel unnecessary.
Uses tamiyas setter straight on the original paint for a year, my take on it is that is softens the paint/decal and that the mild corrosive action setts the decal in the paint to some degree. The staing might be. Reaction with The paint that you use.
Very nice work, fantastic tutorial! US Olive Drab did wear quickly and become shiny from crew traffic - it did not chip nearly as bad as German and Russian armour. Their white markings however, where very durable and typically did not wear to the degree you have depicted but YOUR model, YOUR choice, lol 👍 One thing I dont recommend though, is soaking your decals - it washes away the glue and can cause adhesion issues. I prefer to soak them 10-15 seconds then leave them on a paper towel until the glue is activated and they will slide off the backing paper - adhere better and helps reduce silvering. And, yes, much prefer satin, or even matte varnish for washes. Thanks for the video!
Beautifully done Panzer , haven't seen this one before , Sherman's didn't really chip , but this very subtle wearing effect works perfectly , will definitely try this out on Tamiyas new M18 Hellcat.
Best Edward.
Very cool to watch and you described the process of weathering well. Having seen the actual after effects in person but not knowing how to put it into words, I think you got it right: certain parts that have seen heavy use are buffed down. Like they were inadvertently polished by the crew and the gear bouncing around. So still the same paint, just catching light in different ways. Very cool. And nice masking too! Awesome trick for home made stars.
Thank you! I've got the diorama itch after my last Pz III..... :)
@@Panzermeister36 yes!!! Haha very exciting :)
Good stuff, Evan.
I used to apply a gloss to my kits for weathering, specifically washes, but have since stopped doing that. Sometimes I add some Tamiya X-22, Gloss Clear, to my paint mix to give it a satin sheen when applied. It seems to work pretty well and makes washes flow much better without absobing into the ultra-flat finish that Tamiya flats provide. I have also gotten some semi-gloss acrylic clear to use as my pre-weathering finish.
Another great video, and the OD weathering is great.
Washes are magical. I uses them on Gunpla all the time. I'm watching tank weathering vids because you guys are the pros in comparison to the typical Gunpla fan.
Used this technique (today) for the first time... didn't go 100% according to plan as the upper tone came-away at some points in largish chunks, but by re applying the paint through an Uschi Von Der Rosten splatter mask, then it all came-out good !
Best from New Zealand.
Good recovery! I should look into getting some of those masks.
I think you got large chunks peeling off as the chipping fluid/hairspray was applied too heavily. A couple of thin mists is all you need.
@@Panzermeister36 - Oh yeah, that's exactly what happened, also using AK's new(ish) 3rd Gen water based acrylics and they aren't as resilient as the (tried & tested) Tamiya acrylics. The Uschi masks are very good, I use them mainly on aircraft builds but they're an excellent way of getting tonal variety into AFV builds aswell.
Just found your channel. I love the fact you give detailed explanations and reasons for what you recommend and why. Practical and inspirational.
+1 sub.
This video is great! I just scored the "Victory Kiss" limited Sherman kit from Meng:) thank you very much for your explanation. Greetings from Germany and happy holidays!
Excellent job on the markings. I concur using the satin. To me, a gloss finish seems to make the wash "float"; I think I would say. I get better results, myself; using satin. Nice to see someone else coming to that conclusion. The paints and primer used on the real vehicles were state of the art for that day and time. Wartime deprivation did not affect the US the way it did all of the European countries and Japan. Good job and very good insight!
Thank you so much! I am glad you enjoyed it. I think satin is the best surface to work on for weathering :)
I literally just finished doing some fine dusting on a M4A3 a few hours ago. Wish I had seen this video. I've been struggling to find a good way to weather Olive Drab since it rarely chips. Seems like distressing the paintjob through hairspray technique and using sponge chipping of a darker color really gives a convincing effect. Thanks for sharing!
You do a nice job of photographing your process. Excellent tutorial
Good demonstration be good to see you finish this on you tube.
Well done.
Very nice. Great use of the hairspray technique, to get that worn affect on the OD - clever. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Great video Panzermeister people always talk about the hair spray technique but this is the best demo that I have seen, got to give it a try now, thank you.
I enjoyed this vid. Nice stuff. The Sherman is one of my favourite tanks. Thanks for creating and sharing.
Very nice work with olive drab Panzermeister36!! 👍
Thank you!
awesome work Ev! I see you channeled your inner Zaloga and blow this one out of the atmosphere in true Panzermeister fashion!
Thank you Shane! I have to feature more allied armour on my channel :) it is quite fun.
@@Panzermeister36 they are a lot fun as subjects as they all have their own unique character and give us a lot of options
I think next time I'll do a Asuka Sherman kit :)
@@Panzermeister36 a far better building experience than that DML kit we got landed with lol
Nice model, great paint and weathering!
Best wishes from the UK!
Thank you for another excellent tutorial video. I can see how this could work on Commonwealth armoured vehicles as well that were painted with SCC15 Olive Drab. I think it would look great on a Firefly!
Fantastic tutorial! Not sure if I was imagining things but your explanations felt even more extensive and precise than usual. Loving it. Thank you for your great work.
Great vid and well timed too. Superb OD and never considered just 'buffing' pant with a sander for decals... have to give that test on some scrap first I think, and taking a sander to some nice paint is the stuff of nightmares. Great vid, thanks for sharing.
I haven't had the sanding sponge wear through the top layers of paint with my technique here. I use 1200 grit and only polish for 30-60 seconds...until the surface is clearly smooth, but not perfectly shiny. "Good enough" usually does it for me :)
Looks great for that Dragon kit that's criticised so bad!
Congratulations on the assembly, and what a great job.
As always, good tips and very well explained.
Thank you for the video!
I'm new to the hobby, got an academy M4A3(76)W coming and these techniques seems like the kinda things i could try doing.
Awesome, just in time as im about to start weathering on an ersatz m10. Those big star roundels with a circle around them are my new nemesis.
@Oliver Viehland was typing it whilst doing something else as well so i messed up a bit :P
Great timing for me. I have an Easy 8 waiting after this Hurricane build I'm doing. I'll use these tips for my weathering as I like the results. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing this video. I learned quite a bit.
The tutorial is done in a really good pace and I can catch most, if not all, of what you are teaching just by watching it once.
1 question, right at the end after the wash is completed, do you seal it all in with another matte top coat? If not, is it a necessary step in your opinion? Thanks!
Panzermeister36 good work and great techniques, you pretty much have the chipping methods down to a tee, top notch weathering i completely agree about the satin varnish got to stock up on it, thank you for sharing.
Excellent video.
Thank you for sharing your techniques. Great video 👍🏽
Thanks for watching!
Great job! I will be using these techniques in painting a game console.
Have fun!
I'm looking forward to the next video of this sherman, I'm working on the same sherman now 👍
Beautiful work!!
Which kit or mix of kits
Fruil tracks, well done!!!
Impressive work and finishing !!!
The kit I used in a bad Dragon one. I would NOT recommend it. Asuka/Tasca Shermans are much better. But if you want to see, here is my build review: ruclips.net/video/eDJgGrIl_is/видео.html
@@Panzermeister36
Thx buddy I will check that out
I have 3 dragon 76MM Wet HVSS
Old and Thunder Bolt VII.
Cool recommendations , I agree
I have a couple of tamiyas and ASUKA's .
Right on
What do you think of the RFM 76mm
HVSS ?
Your build on the dragon looked solid , weathering is beautiful.
I know the fit on that dragon was tough.
Thank you again
Good job on the decals, I have never seen a need to apply gloss coat before the decal never had a problem with silvering, I have a bottle of solvaset that I have been using for over 20 years.
I've never had much success when it comes to durability using any Acrylic Primers. I had to strip a Jagdpanther one time after using MM Acryl Primer. I've also used Vallejo's Primer and none seem durable. I'm yet to try the Ammo Of Mig's but I find their paints not very durable. Nice work on the Sherman, finally got around to watching this one.
The AMMO primer is not actually an AMMO product. It's rebranded Badger Stynylrez which is an excellent primer. I agree AMMO acrylics are weak...but this primer is great.
Excellent video, looking to buy an RC tank and this video has given me loadd of inspiration
Thanks again for a superb tutorial!
Best wishes for Christmas and New Year.
Thank you! Merry Christmas to you too!
Awesome techniques! Great video. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Just found you from Dave. I model trains and I am looking for techniques that I can apply to my trains and cars. i like the washes technique. Of course I am not going to paint my trains green, even though, some cars are green.
bravo , I am preparing to make a 1/16 M4A2..thanks for your lesson..it was great...!
Thank you!
Thank you for the video, a good reason for my to start my M4A3 (105mm) HVSS
Great video! Very handy and useful tips, thank you for sharing.
I learned a lot from watching this. If I only had more time to make more models. I used to work for Alberto Culver and was able to get free hairspray and all. That was before I got back into modeling. Darn!
I've just watched your video and I'm pretty impressed with the final finish, however I don't understand why you applied the two base colors. I don't see how they influenced the final appearance, especially the red tones in the beginning. Please explain.
Hi, it's nice work as usual. Anyway, I think how many types are there deterioration of paint ? Is it by sunshine, rain, wind and more ?
I'm looking forward to North Africa video. Thank you !!
North Africa Panzer III will be next week :) Thank you!
Panzermeister, thank you very much for taking the time out to do these videos I love them all and they are a big help to me.
Just one question on this particular build at the end do you add a flat coat to seal things in?.
I do not apply matte varnishes at the end as it can ruin certain weathering effects. I just have to be careful when handling it but the weathering dries on quite strong on its own. I'll apply matte at some point about halfway through weathering, not at the end.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank You!
Fantastic, just what I have been waiting for
Really nice video! Only trouble is, now i want to watch a John Carpenter film - because of the awesome retro music you used.
I know this comment was directed at Panzermeister rather than me, but thank you for the compliment on the music. I had Carpenter in mind when I was writing that piece of music, lol. The whole soundtrack of the short film it's from (Angel of the City) has that kind of vibe.
11 thumbs down? Evan keep at it, you must be doing something great :)
Great work, it's really looking realistic.
Will you continue further on this project with US OD on the Sherman?
Great detail , straight forward
Cool.
Good tips , subtle chipping , I like that on US Vehicles
Yes, I will be doing a few more videos on this Sherman. But it will be a few weeks until the next one.
@@Panzermeister36
No worries mate!!
Cool vids
I enjoy your style
I am currently working a kit bashed
Tamiya jumbo , redesign
Following your work
I am currently using AK water colour pencils for subtle chipping , slight washes
I have some of those AK pencils too. I am excited to try them out.
@@Panzermeister36
So far they are great, I need more range of colors on them
Need to purchase more
Lol
Model monster .....
In all they are working excellent
Terrific tutorial! Thanks for all the details.
Hell yea, if I get the RFM sherman I'll use this as a guide
Great video!
Excellent video Evan. I really like how you did the wear on the olive drab, very effective. Did you get a new editing program? Things seem different... in a good way.
Yes I got the new one you recommended. First time using it was this video...I'm sure I still have some more things to figure out :)
Yeah, I figured so. How do you like it? If you have any questions shoot me a DM.
Great job on the Sherman!
Thank you! Your varnish is great quality :)
@@Panzermeister36 Happy to hear that you like it!
Thankful tips.....like to follow this and see more 👍
thank you - just getting back into model making - what else is there to do with Omicron approaching - there are some superb tips and protocols clearly explained here - plan to use your approach to finish off my Tamiya Cromwell IV
Nice! This will help with any US armour projects in the future, however, when it comes to 'olive drab is olive drab' I would agree for US vehicles, but if you are building a British vehicle or a US vehicle in British service, it is not. The British did use a version of olive drab called SCC 15 but is is paler and less saturated than US olive drab, when you look at the two side by side, there is a visible difference!
I meant OD on US vehicles. When it comes to OD on vehicles given as lend lease to the Soviets or as aid to the Commonwealth....well then that becomes a mess :)
@@Panzermeister36you can say that again, everything becomes a mess when us Brits get involved! (Especially these days anyway!)
Amazing work.
Really great video, thank you for the time you took to make it. Really helpful tips indeed
Thank you!
Very nice work. Super guide how to.. 👍
Very nicely done, thanks for sharing. 👍
Great video my friend!!
Have you ever used Vallejo surface primer before Evan ?
I’m working on a Sherman right now so this really helps!
Excellent dude, you rock!
Great video! Question......Don't you use anything to seal the base coat before you apply hairspray?
No, I don't need to. Tamiya Paints are very durable so I am not worried about them coming off the primer. If I were using weaker paints like AMMO or AK acrylics, then I might seal it...
Very nice tutorial, you forgot the large star on the engine deck. While most of the time they were covered up with stowage, they were there to prevent friendly fire from allied pilots who were prone to shoot anything that moved.
I've got a bunch of stowage for this vehicle. I might even put the orange air recognition panel on the engine deck too. But you are correct :)
Great video. After the wash, do you seal the model with anything before you start to weather the model with oils, pigments and whatever else you use?
No, I'll just let it dry for 48hours. That will be enough to let the wash set.
Awesome channel. I'm a beginner and I'm looking for an airbrush with compressor. Can you buy it as a kit Barger 105 with compressor?
Hey. I’ve got a Sherman Firefly in the mail to me so this was super useful thanks. I’m brush painting atm as I’m just getting started and was wondering, I’ve got acrylic matt varnish will that work ok for the weathering stage? I’ll be using the same Tamiya acrylic paints as you but for both the base coat and throughout the other stages of painting. Can I still use the hairspray technique if I apply a coat of varnish over the base layer? That way when I apply the thinner to active the spray it’ll just show the base colour and the varnish will protect it? Will the matt varnish work alright for the wash too or should I consider a gloss if I can’t find satin?
great painting job keep it up
good video, thanks for share and greetings from Costa Rica
Can you use these paints without an airbrush? Would the mixture of thinner be different for brushed on paints?
Dear Evan; If we use normal Acrylic thinner in Tamiya paints, will it replace the X20 A? Also, how do you calculate the paint mixing ratios? So you're calculating drops? And, how do you determine the main color of the model? According to the suggestion in the booklet or how? Thank's a lot..
I'm not sure if normal acrylic thinner will work. Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based, when most others are water-based.
Mixing ratios, I just estimate. You could use drops or anything else; the ratio is always the same so the colour will be the same.
I determine the colour based off of reference photos and books I have. There's a lot of good information about this on the Internet.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you for your answer. I'm new so I can ask you a lot of questions, sorry. I see that painting is very important. In any case, it is something that will be learned with time and trial and error. Can you just do a video on paint? Along with the reference picture.. And the shading and tonal transitions.. Or if you made such a video, I may not have found it.
I will see if I can make a video on that subject :)
Actually Tamiya XF 62 is regarded as one of the most accurate OD in the market for a WW2 kit. Clairol hair spray also works well.
Great video again.
Man ... I'm going to be very honest. I never liked or was struck by the sherman tank, but after seeing the initial images in your video, I'm going to have to change my attitude. I think I have somewhere an old, very old (Probably from the '70s) Tamiya kit, unarmed, from a Sherman, I think I'm going to look for it.
I find most Sherman to be pretty boring too honestly, but I haven't done one in like 5 years so I figured I should give it a shot again :)
Looks great - thanks.
Do you thin the paint for sponge chipping? Thanks
I don't really thin it but I get most of the brush so only a little remains, similar to drybrushing.
was close to finishing my sherman but after watching your video i've bought the same products to restart the paint job:/
PzM36 - Superb video as always. Did you apply the VMS satin varnish heavily or in light multiple passes?
Multiple light passes, but no thinner. Thank you :)
nice build man
also, what are your thoughts on "Tamiya Panel Liner" versus oil paint self made pin wash like you made in previous videos?
Hey m8 just a question, first of all like your work, about the chipping effect, you using a darker colour under the lighter basecoat, so should the chipping colour not be lighter then the basecoat or does it need to be darker, just trying to learn more about it, thanks.
In this case I used a darker chipping colour for the wear on olive drab. That's how I would do it on American tanks. But on Russian or German tanks you can chip it differently...for example I'll chip using a red primer colour on German tanks which is not always darker than the camouflage.
Why does the tap water not activate the darker layer below the hairspray aswell? Considering all layers are affected by water
The hairspray is between the layers, and it only affects the top/lighter layer of paint that is on top of the hairspray.
Excellent.
Looks great 👍
Just a question the last clear coat on your models do you use a flat or semi gloss. I have seen the real vehicles in the war museum and for the most part they do seem to have a bit of a gloss to them thanks
I usually use flat for the final cost since it makes them look a little dirty and faded and natural. A slight gloss might make them look toy-like. Museums are generally not 100% accurate in how they paint their tanks during restoration, so you should take what paints you see there with a grain of salt.
great video